This is one of those channels where you look at the production quality and knowledge being shared and automatically assume it's got a million subs. Keep it up man, these videos are just fantastic.
One thing worth adding just to clarify things for complete newbies, is that if you plan on shooting in manual, it may not be necessary to rate your film differently. You can simply over expose, using your light meter- same thing. Keep up the solid content!
Beginning film shooters don’t need to think about a different ASA than what is on the box. That is an advanced topic and there are far more basic things they need to ‘focus’ on.
Why this beard guy using porta 400 set ISO 200 and said "rate your film" wtf is that? I know the terms of pusing/pulling. Some of the terms he uses seem so confusing. Could you clarify please
@@danielreyes5063 you dial in your settings using the light meter to tell you when you are correctly exposed, and then you manually add one stop of light more, either using wider aperture and/or longer shutter. For example, if your meter says you are exposed correctly at f/8 and 1/250th, you then change the settings to f/5.6 1/250th or to f/8 1/125th. Alternatively, if it is an analog needle light meter like in the Olympus OM-1N, you simply dial in your settings so that the needle is angled a little up from center, instead of center. Finally, there is a much easier method to consistently over-expose, which is - to use your camera's exposure compensation dial, if it has one. For example, my OM-2N has an exp comp dial, which I can set to +1, in which case the shutter speed will automatically be set 1 stop longer when shooting auto, or the swinging needle in the viewfinder will automatically be centered when I am 1 stop over-exposed when shooting manual. My OM-1N on the other hand does not have an exp. comp. dial, so I would need to manually add a stop or lie to the meter about my film ISO if I wanted to consistently over-expose. The latter is easier and more precise as I am not judging the angle of the needle, I can just line it up dead-center.
What I love about this channel is how humble Mr. McDougall is during his very useful tips and gold nuggets videos. Never heard the usual mouthfuls you hear from other RUclipsrs and he always goes straight to the point, every minute of his videos are pure knowledge gold being imparted to his audience, not that "reality TV show" style nonsense that has plagued the community. I bought an entire set of Contax C/Y lenses based on one of his reviews as he looked so excited talking about them, they were pricey but I don't regret it at all and are the 'go to' lenses for my photo and video hobbies. Thanks you Mr. McDougall and please keep sharing your valuable knowledge with us, really appreciate your work! Cheers! 🍺😉👍🏻
I took your Skillshare course -- very helpful! Thank you. I quit Skillshare since because there wasn't enough by others that I felt it worthwhile to be paying monthly. Yours was well worth it!
So many variables that are more or less out of your hands. And that’s what’s interesting about analog. The excitement and surprise (or disappointment) when the scans come back.
Getting back into film after an almost two decade hiatus, I love your channel. Thank you for all this research and work! I'm in the process of narrowing down film stocks that are complementary to my post process, you have been incredibly helpful.
PLEASE MAKE MORE VIDS.. I MISS YOU. It can be just vlogs or random thoughts, i appreciate the high quality of your past vids. But I]'d rather quality instead of quantity.
I'm uninterested in making this a debate over intentional over exposure. I comment because the video fully misses the critical problem of such over exposure. As exposure increases, the highlights (the light parts of the scene) beyond one stop strart compressing, meaning that there will be less tone difference between highlights until at some point there is no difference at all - everything it "white".. When you over exposure, you move that many stops up that scale of highlight compression, the effect of which is loss of contrast in the highlights. You can move your exposure back to where it would have been if not over exposed, but in so doing you are not restoring the lowered contrast (compressed) highlight. You can use digital processing to expand those highlights, but in so doing, you cannot restore the details which have been lost at the time of exposure. And, most folks won't take the time or effort to manually do these adjustments to each image. Overall, this means that to optimize your image, you need a good light meter and know how to use it, an event which is significantly lacking on YT videos among the "half box speed" boys. The moral: use the box speed. That's why the film maker put it there, stupid.
Super helpful, thank you. Shooting at a different ISO rating but not pushing or pulling in developing, but instead during scanning was a critical concept this video clarified.
Boss I got to tell you I've been shooting a lot of medium format lately and this video is right on time. Really like the look of those portra 400 you shot in the daytime. I still have yet to try over-exposing it I'll let you know how it goes. Good looking out for the noobs
Ha! That photo “family cafe” at 4:05 east of Indio, California I seriously JUST took that same photo from that same angle 2 days ago when I was driving from Los Angeles to Phoenix-what a crack up🤣excellent video as always man. Cheers!
I have stumbled across several of your videos by accident, now. Solid stuff, man. Glad I found your channel. Seeing that you appreciate Contax was enough for me to subscribe.
Rad video, I love how professional and attentive you are. Some other RUclips photography channels seem to gloss over subjects like these and it's great to see this topic answered.
Color Negative it's very hard to overexpose, the thing that change with overexposing it is mostly the amount of contrast, but you won't get a "whiteish" image by overexposing by 2 or 3 stops. Even straight out of the scanner won't look that different from a "right" exposure. The lab isn't rally bringing down the exposure of the scans.
I develop and scan my film using my Fuji camera to scan them, my question is how should I adjust the camera to get the best results? Do I overexpose the photo in the camera? Or just adjust the exposure to where there is no clipping in black or white
It doesn't have to be set to 400, but setting it to 400 will give you a "correct" exposure in most situations. If you set it to 800 it will give you an exposure that is one stop under exposed. If you set it to 200, it would give you an exposure that is one stop over exposed.
I know this is aimed at those new to analogue photography, but to me handing a film over to a lab to develop and edit my prints is like handing a raw file over to a total stranger to edit and print. I know not everyone has room for a darkroom or can afford a decent flatbed scanner, but I do suggest developing your own film and you can use a digital camera to scan with. It’s the next part of the creative process. I hate having to use Lightroom, even for the shortest time, but I can spend hours in the darkroom.
Cool video, thanks a lot. I love the look of you're photos two stops overexposed, but im curious to know what you metered for. Do you expose for the shadows even if you overexpose by two stops?
Great video :) I have a couple of questions. I just bought a new point and shoot (contact tvsii) with exposure compensation. Does +1 mean over or under exposure as the lab said + might mean under. Also if i want to rate 800 iso film at 400 to get a different look, should i tell the lab to readjust for that, or should I not mention it so that the rating actually does something to the image. Thanks :)
What is your process at the lab: how do you make scanning choices with the lab. What are the options?. Please make a detailed video with examples. It would be helpful to compare finished scanned film images with actual from negative prints on photo paper Side by side.
Hey Kyle, first of all, thank you for the great tips! I was wondering if you also develop and scan yourself and if not, why? This seems to give a lot of control and also solves the issue of not having to work with whatever the lab gives back to you.
Hey Johannes, I currently scan all of my own work, but don't develop at home. For me it all comes down to time. I'm bad enough getting caught up on scans, I can only imagine how behind I would get if I developed my own as well. As well, where I live, the cost difference between getting my film developed at a lab vs doing it at home isn't that drastic, so for now I'm still sending it out.
@@KyleMcDougall Hey Kyle. Thanks a lot for your answer! I'm asking because I'm still in the process of establishing a workflow that works for me. I found a good lab but also always find myself asking how would it look like if I did it myself? The difference of the two labs you showed really surprised me and I just want to make sure I'm getting the best out of my negatives. I guess scanning myself is the only way. Thanks for the great work, looking forward for more of your great tips :)
Just discovered your channel (as I’m just discovering my Bronica ETRS and a boat load of (expired) portra 160 & 400). This vid is so informative and helpful, as I begin experimenting...
Thank you for the tips! I really want to start shooting film as a side hobby against my regular photography with my canon 6D. Do you have any tips of how to purchase a film camera?
Hey, so if you're new to film, it's probably best to try and find a camera that has already been tested and has no issues. There are a lot of film cameras out there, on eBay, thrift stores, antique stores, etc etc, but if they're untested, you'll never know if they have issues until you shoot your first roll of film. I'd look on eBay, or even etsy, for sellers that have cameras that they've actually tested with film. You may pay a little more upfront, but it will save you time, and potentially money.
With built in meters that use Centre Weighting in old film cameras, you are going to get incorrectly exposed pictures because the meters don't cope well with back lighting or spot lighting, just read the camera manual for your Fx3 2000. so unless you know when to override the meter reading you are unlikely to get consistent speed rating in variable lighting situations. Obviously if you use an external light meter you can avoid this.
Great video. Just a quick question though. I've just been given some TriX 400 from 2008 which I'm going to over expose by a stop (read it's around 1 stop per 10 years of out of date). I'm using my Mamiya C220 so going to use a light meter at asa200. When I send the film to the lab for development would I get them to develop as a 200 film or just develp as a 400 film normally with the 1 stop over exposure? I guess this question also relates to say shooting portra 400 at 200asa would you get the lab to develop as a normal 400 or get them to develop it as a 200 film? Thanks for any help you can give.
Thanks for all the information, your videos are very useful! i discovered your channel while trying to understand how to scan film at home and i've been getting the results that i wanted from your advice on how to use vuescan, which makes me sooo happy :D so, thank you for that. Also I really like all of your photography work, I just went to stalk you to your insta and
Okay, I understand that you kind of fake the ISO in camera so you change the shutter speed to overexpose the image... but if you have a manual exposure camera and cut in half the ISO WITHOUT CHANGE THE SPEED NEITHER APERTURE won't you get a darker image??
I’m a beginner at using film and wondering if when it is dark, you would want to overexpose by bringing the iso down? For ex. at a concert where it is dark and you are using an iso of 400, do you under or overexpose your camera? sorry if its a stupid question .. I’m clearly new at this and want to learn haha
Great video ! I have a question what is the main purpose of overexposing a Kodak Portra 400 to iso 200 ? I usually shot at box speed. Some times I push b&w to 1600 if I know I will shoot in the night. Thank you 🙏🏼
hi kyle! i recently want to try out the portra 400 but im unsure how to use it correctly. I watched the exposure test you did, but i would like to learn more. If i shout the 400 at iso200, how do i play around with the F stop and exposure?
You are very knowledgeable regarding film but most of all I love the way you present this knowledge. Not flashy or with arms waving around like a lunatic like some on here do. Very calmly and slowly. Great stuff.
Is it bad to shoot at varying ISO speeds from box even though the camera is on Aperature mode so the exposure is always perfect and the photos come out looking fine? I shoot at box speed more recently with auto DX mode on but when I first got my Nikon F801 I started varying the ISO on Ektar 100 to say 800 on one shot then 640 on the next and so forth to get higher shutter speeds when i needed them, all the pictures on the roll come out correctly exposed but I hear different things about it especially when it comes to development process.
You could change your ISO setting on your camera throughout a roll of film, and come out of it with images that look fine, but it all depends on how much variance, and if you're under or over exposing. With Ektar, shooting at 800 would be underexposing the film by 3 stops, which definitely would not look good. So just keep in mind what you're changing it to and how much you're changing the exposure.
Do the labs adjust the white balance? I find that if I use the auto wb feature in Lr on my scans, the photo completely changes from blue to green for example with fuji pro 400h. I'm guessing green is more what it's supposed to be. Hence why I'm thinking that I should get a scanner and just do it myself. How does wb work with labs?
Auto WB in LR isn't the best way to judge things. As for labs adjusting white balance... your scans that you get back should be corrected. If anything, scanning yourself at home is a more difficult process to try and achieve proper WB.
@@KyleMcDougall unfortunately I'm color blind. I'm deficient with many shades of green and red so doing it by eye is not something my brain is wired to do and i have a hard time believing that snow should be blue in a Fuji pro 400 scan which is what I get back from the lab. Hence why I go the auto wb or wb picker route. I have to work within my limitations of color blindness. Thanks.
Great video! I was just wondering, in regards to exposure, whether or not a light meter app on a phone is sufficient considering the latitude of exposure found on some of these films stocks. Will an app provide accurate enough information, or is it better to get a separate light meter for non-professional/recreational work? Thanks
The light meter apps can work just fine, but it all just depends on the environment and type of lighting situation. If you can afford one, I’d recommend purchasing a separate light meter. But, I have used an app before for a few rolls of film and it was accurate.
I've considered buying a separate one for a bit, but it's out of my price range for the moment. I'll stick to the phone app for now, until I can afford to buy one. Thanks for the advice and the quick response :)
So I have a question, I know you mentioned working with a lab etc but I’ve also seen you scan your own film as well. Do you use a combination of both in your workflow? Or do you mainly develop and scan your own film? Trying to figure out what’s the most cost effective for me
Now that I'm not travelling, and mainly shooting 6x7, I've been scanning my own, just because it is a bit more cost effective. But if using a lab was the same price, I'd probably go that route. Give up a little bit of control for time. I'm really bad with catching up on scanning my negatives.
I currently have my film developed at a lab. Again, all comes down to time for me. And the cost savings for developing at home aren't as high as for scanning, at least where I am.
Thank you. When I was shooting Ektachrome or Fuji Provia slide, I would adjust my exposure compensation +.5 or +1 or even +2 and I got very rich colours, especially shooting in Rockies. More detail in the highlights and the blue skies came out very rich.
Typically you set the ISO to the speed you want to rate the film at and leave it set for the whole film. You use exposure compensation +1/-1 when you think the built in light meter won't give you the correct exposure reading because it can't cope with the lighting conditions spot lit, back lit etc. So exposure compensation is typically on for a few frames to cope with difficult lighting conditions and then switched back to 0, whereas ISO is set at the start of the film and left for the whole film.
First: Great Video! Thank you Kyle. My question: I'm dealing with that over- / underexposure at the moment. It was logical for me to meter a 400 film at 200 in lower light situations to get it lighter, that makes sense. But then i heard, that it's also possible to meter a 400 film at 800 for example and let it develop (longer) as an 800 and not an 400 film - this would give an overexposure at the developing and the ability to shoot at a faster shutter speed in a low light situation - so now i'm confused - which way is right or are their both? Maybe you can answer this before i develope my films and find it out. Thank you very much for your help and time.
Hey there, the best thing to do is to test it out and see what you prefer. Shoot a roll as 800, and have it developed the same. And then also shoot a roll as 200 and get it developed normally.
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This is one of those channels where you look at the production quality and knowledge being shared and automatically assume it's got a million subs. Keep it up man, these videos are just fantastic.
One thing worth adding just to clarify things for complete newbies, is that if you plan on shooting in manual, it may not be necessary to rate your film differently. You can simply over expose, using your light meter- same thing.
Keep up the solid content!
How do you over expose using the light meter ?
@@danielreyes5063 ISO
Beginning film shooters don’t need to think about a different ASA than what is on the box. That is an advanced topic and there are far more basic things they need to ‘focus’ on.
Why this beard guy using porta 400 set ISO 200 and said "rate your film" wtf is that? I know the terms of pusing/pulling. Some of the terms he uses seem so confusing. Could you clarify please
@@danielreyes5063 you dial in your settings using the light meter to tell you when you are correctly exposed, and then you manually add one stop of light more, either using wider aperture and/or longer shutter. For example, if your meter says you are exposed correctly at f/8 and 1/250th, you then change the settings to f/5.6 1/250th or to f/8 1/125th.
Alternatively, if it is an analog needle light meter like in the Olympus OM-1N, you simply dial in your settings so that the needle is angled a little up from center, instead of center.
Finally, there is a much easier method to consistently over-expose, which is - to use your camera's exposure compensation dial, if it has one. For example, my OM-2N has an exp comp dial, which I can set to +1, in which case the shutter speed will automatically be set 1 stop longer when shooting auto, or the swinging needle in the viewfinder will automatically be centered when I am 1 stop over-exposed when shooting manual.
My OM-1N on the other hand does not have an exp. comp. dial, so I would need to manually add a stop or lie to the meter about my film ISO if I wanted to consistently over-expose. The latter is easier and more precise as I am not judging the angle of the needle, I can just line it up dead-center.
Most underrated photography channel on RUclips. Great video 🔥
Thank you, Mike.
Totally agree
I agree. Meanwhile mine is overrated and my mom is my only subscriber.
It is one of the best for sure, im not sure its underrated, maybe undersubscribed but it is always high quality even if they come few and far between.
And making notes about, the scene, the exposure, settigs, etc, helps a lot later when scanning your negatives.
do I need to grow a beard to be able to shoot film?
Yes
Or rather: Is life worth living without a beard?
My channel has really taken off since growing a beard. OK maybe not.
yes
Yep, if you want to look normal, I mean can you imagine a film shooter without a beard 🧔.
What I love about this channel is how humble Mr. McDougall is during his very useful tips and gold nuggets videos. Never heard the usual mouthfuls you hear from other RUclipsrs and he always goes straight to the point, every minute of his videos are pure knowledge gold being imparted to his audience, not that "reality TV show" style nonsense that has plagued the community. I bought an entire set of Contax C/Y lenses based on one of his reviews as he looked so excited talking about them, they were pricey but I don't regret it at all and are the 'go to' lenses for my photo and video hobbies. Thanks you Mr. McDougall and please keep sharing your valuable knowledge with us, really appreciate your work! Cheers! 🍺😉👍🏻
I've been working in a lab for 12 years and your info about different labs and machines and operators is much appreciated !
I took your Skillshare course -- very helpful! Thank you. I quit Skillshare since because there wasn't enough by others that I felt it worthwhile to be paying monthly. Yours was well worth it!
Thanks, Diane. Glad you enjoyed the course. Actually have two more in the works. Hoping to launch them in the next month of two.
This is exactly what I was waiting for : how you proceed to match your intent and the final look. Thanks a lot
Omg! Thanks for this video. I needed this. So, it sounds like how the film is scanned is more important than how it was developed.
So many variables that are more or less out of your hands. And that’s what’s interesting about analog. The excitement and surprise (or disappointment) when the scans come back.
Getting back into film after an almost two decade hiatus, I love your channel. Thank you for all this research and work! I'm in the process of narrowing down film stocks that are complementary to my post process, you have been incredibly helpful.
You're welcome. Cheers!
PLEASE MAKE MORE VIDS.. I MISS YOU. It can be just vlogs or random thoughts, i appreciate the high quality of your past vids. But I]'d rather quality instead of quantity.
Thank you. More coming soon.
Kyle McDougall I just came
Hope everything's is good. Looking forward to a new video sometime soon..
1 mil quality content! I just started shooting film and you're videos have helped me a ton on understanding film!!
Thanks, man! Glad you enjoyed.
I'm uninterested in making this a debate over intentional over exposure. I comment because the video fully misses the critical problem of such over exposure. As exposure increases, the highlights (the light parts of the scene) beyond one stop strart compressing, meaning that there will be less tone difference between highlights until at some point there is no difference at all - everything it "white".. When you over exposure, you move that many stops up that scale of highlight compression, the effect of which is loss of contrast in the highlights. You can move your exposure back to where it would have been if not over exposed, but in so doing you are not restoring the lowered contrast (compressed) highlight. You can use digital processing to expand those highlights, but in so doing, you cannot restore the details which have been lost at the time of exposure. And, most folks won't take the time or effort to manually do these adjustments to each image. Overall, this means that to optimize your image, you need a good light meter and know how to use it, an event which is significantly lacking on YT videos among the "half box speed" boys. The moral: use the box speed. That's why the film maker put it there, stupid.
Super helpful, thank you. Shooting at a different ISO rating but not pushing or pulling in developing, but instead during scanning was a critical concept this video clarified.
Glad it helped you, Lee.
Boss I got to tell you I've been shooting a lot of medium format lately and this video is right on time. Really like the look of those portra 400 you shot in the daytime. I still have yet to try over-exposing it I'll let you know how it goes. Good looking out for the noobs
Thanks, man! Glad you enjoyed the vid.
Good starting point, people should shoot more than one shot if they are unsure
And learn make notes. It does not take long to pick up :)
Ha! That photo “family cafe” at 4:05 east of Indio, California I seriously JUST took that same photo from that same angle 2 days ago when I was driving from Los Angeles to Phoenix-what a crack up🤣excellent video as always man. Cheers!
Desert Centre! One of my favourite spots.
So so useful for beginners like me! Want to see more content like this in this channel soon!
Thanks! More to come.
I have stumbled across several of your videos by accident, now. Solid stuff, man. Glad I found your channel. Seeing that you appreciate Contax was enough for me to subscribe.
Fantastic video. I love how you can explain concepts so clearly. Amazing images also!
Thanks, man! Always appreciate the support!
This was very helpful, thank you!
I've got the Nikon FE2 (black) with Kodak Gold 200, time to go out and shoot film!
Rad video, I love how professional and attentive you are. Some other RUclips photography channels seem to gloss over subjects like these and it's great to see this topic answered.
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful.
The minute I found your channel I binged through every video you've made! Please post more, I need my fix :)
Thank you so much, this helped with some things I’ve been really nervous about getting started.
Glad you found it helpful.
One of the most useful videos on this subject I've come across. Tanks!
Glad you found it helpful!
Color Negative it's very hard to overexpose, the thing that change with overexposing it is mostly the amount of contrast, but you won't get a "whiteish" image by overexposing by 2 or 3 stops. Even straight out of the scanner won't look that different from a "right" exposure. The lab isn't rally bringing down the exposure of the scans.
Another well made informative video, some amazing shots in there too!
Much appreciated!!
I develop and scan my film using my Fuji camera to scan them, my question is how should I adjust the camera to get the best results?
Do I overexpose the photo in the camera? Or just adjust the exposure to where there is no clipping in black or white
I did an entire video sharing my process using the GFX. I show how I expose in that video.
@@KyleMcDougall
Thanks I'll check it out
if im shooting portra 400 does my iso have to be 400? because i use the light meter app and it would say like 800iso is that okay?
It doesn't have to be set to 400, but setting it to 400 will give you a "correct" exposure in most situations. If you set it to 800 it will give you an exposure that is one stop under exposed. If you set it to 200, it would give you an exposure that is one stop over exposed.
I know this is aimed at those new to analogue photography, but to me handing a film over to a lab to develop and edit my prints is like handing a raw file over to a total stranger to edit and print. I know not everyone has room for a darkroom or can afford a decent flatbed scanner, but I do suggest developing your own film and you can use a digital camera to scan with. It’s the next part of the creative process. I hate having to use Lightroom, even for the shortest time, but I can spend hours in the darkroom.
Amazing work Kyle. Please keep posting such quality videos. You mention overexposing film, do you ever push or pull your film during developement?
Thanks, Paul. I dont ever push or pull. Just process normal.
Cool video, thanks a lot. I love the look of you're photos two stops overexposed, but im curious to know what you metered for. Do you expose for the shadows even if you overexpose by two stops?
Thank you for information about scanners!
Great video :) I have a couple of questions. I just bought a new point and shoot (contact tvsii) with exposure compensation. Does +1 mean over or under exposure as the lab said + might mean under. Also if i want to rate 800 iso film at 400 to get a different look, should i tell the lab to readjust for that, or should I not mention it so that the rating actually does something to the image. Thanks :)
Hey there, plus one would be over exposure. As for rating 800 at 400, you wouldn't have to tell the lab anything. Just have them process is normal.
If I overexpose, let's say 400 Portra and set the ISO to 200 in camera. Do I also set the lightmeter to 200 or to the actual 400?
Great video, Kyle. Looking forward to the next one. 👌
Cheers!
Yet another great video, Kyle! Keep up the excellent work!
What is your process at the lab: how do you make scanning choices with the lab. What are the options?. Please make a detailed video with examples. It would be helpful to compare finished scanned film images with actual from negative prints on photo paper Side by side.
Hi Kyle. Maybe worth mentioning that your references to overexposure apply to negative film but not transparencies, for those who are new to film.
Indeed. Mentioned negative film briefly, but definitely could have been more clear. Cheers.
Fab job Kyle precise and inspiring.
Hey Kyle, first of all, thank you for the great tips! I was wondering if you also develop and scan yourself and if not, why? This seems to give a lot of control and also solves the issue of not having to work with whatever the lab gives back to you.
Hey Johannes, I currently scan all of my own work, but don't develop at home. For me it all comes down to time. I'm bad enough getting caught up on scans, I can only imagine how behind I would get if I developed my own as well. As well, where I live, the cost difference between getting my film developed at a lab vs doing it at home isn't that drastic, so for now I'm still sending it out.
@@KyleMcDougall Hey Kyle. Thanks a lot for your answer! I'm asking because I'm still in the process of establishing a workflow that works for me. I found a good lab but also always find myself asking how would it look like if I did it myself? The difference of the two labs you showed really surprised me and I just want to make sure I'm getting the best out of my negatives. I guess scanning myself is the only way. Thanks for the great work, looking forward for more of your great tips :)
Just discovered your channel (as I’m just discovering my Bronica ETRS and a boat load of (expired) portra 160 & 400). This vid is so informative and helpful, as I begin experimenting...
What does it mean for the film to be expired?
When you purchase a roll of film it will have a expiry date, or recommended use by date on it.
Thank you for the tips! I really want to start shooting film as a side hobby against my regular photography with my canon 6D. Do you have any tips of how to purchase a film camera?
Hey, so if you're new to film, it's probably best to try and find a camera that has already been tested and has no issues. There are a lot of film cameras out there, on eBay, thrift stores, antique stores, etc etc, but if they're untested, you'll never know if they have issues until you shoot your first roll of film. I'd look on eBay, or even etsy, for sellers that have cameras that they've actually tested with film. You may pay a little more upfront, but it will save you time, and potentially money.
Do you know which camera you are looking for?
Just found your channel and the way you're putting things together is awesome. Beautifully filmed and great content. Cudos Sir
what an insightful video! i just love film photography!
really enjoyed watching this!
thanks for sharing this amazing content with us
Thank you!
With built in meters that use Centre Weighting in old film cameras, you are going to get incorrectly exposed pictures because the meters don't cope well with back lighting or spot lighting, just read the camera manual for your Fx3 2000. so unless you know when to override the meter reading you are unlikely to get consistent speed rating in variable lighting situations. Obviously if you use an external light meter you can avoid this.
Great video thanks for sharing! What photo labs did you use for the comparison? I liked the one in the right.
Thanks. These would have been developed and scanned at The Find Lab in Utah.
The production on your videos is always amazing! What gear do you use to create them?
Thanks! Currently using a Blackmagic Pocket Camera 4k, Sigma and Contax Zeiss lenses.
This is a great channel. Thank you so much for sharing! Bonus that you are from Canada!
Great video sir.
Fav Channel so far.
Thank you!
Great video man, super informative. Really looking forward to seeing more from you.
Thank you!
Great video. Just a quick question though. I've just been given some TriX 400 from 2008 which I'm going to over expose by a stop (read it's around 1 stop per 10 years of out of date). I'm using my Mamiya C220 so going to use a light meter at asa200. When I send the film to the lab for development would I get them to develop as a 200 film or just develp as a 400 film normally with the 1 stop over exposure? I guess this question also relates to say shooting portra 400 at 200asa would you get the lab to develop as a normal 400 or get them to develop it as a 200 film? Thanks for any help you can give.
You got it. Develop as normal, you don't need to get them to develop it as 200.
Very helpful thanks
Thanks for all the information, your videos are very useful! i discovered your channel while trying to understand how to scan film at home and i've been getting the results that i wanted from your advice on how to use vuescan, which makes me sooo happy :D so, thank you for that. Also I really like all of your photography work, I just went to stalk you to your insta and
Thank you! I really appreciate that. Glad you've enjoyed the vids!
You his legit, cause he didn't try to sell you any links
s q u a r e s p a c e
Love learning more aboooot film 🎞
Love those shots
Great video, good explanation, 10 out of 10
Thanks for sharing
Thanks!
Your Channel is really nice, you make a really good job
Thanks!
Okay, I understand that you kind of fake the ISO in camera so you change the shutter speed to overexpose the image... but if you have a manual exposure camera and cut in half the ISO WITHOUT CHANGE THE SPEED NEITHER APERTURE won't you get a darker image??
Hey Kyle. Love your channel. I'm new to film. Want to start out in medium format. Like the RB67 sd. Where is the best place to look for one?
Ebay is probably your best bet. That's where I buy most of my film gear. Just buy from an experienced seller and you shouldn't' have any issues.
Your pictures are awesome ! And this video is super useful :)
Yeah, great stuff, Kyle. Thanks for posting this.
Thank you, Rick!
I’m a beginner at using film and wondering if when it is dark, you would want to overexpose by bringing the iso down? For ex. at a concert where it is dark and you are using an iso of 400, do you under or overexpose your camera? sorry if its a stupid question .. I’m clearly new at this and want to learn haha
If you want to overexpose, you could lower your ISO setting on your camera so that your camera's meter gives you a reading that it one stop over.
Great stuff Kyle!
Thanks!
Nice job, Kyle. As always.
Thanks!
Great video ! I have a question what is the main purpose of overexposing a Kodak Portra 400 to iso 200 ? I usually shot at box speed. Some times I push b&w to 1600 if I know I will shoot in the night. Thank you 🙏🏼
One of the purposes would be to help avoid accidental under exposure, which increases grain. Gives you one stop of insurance, basically.
Great info, thanks for that. Is the Yashica you're holding an fx-3 super 2000? Which lens is on it?
Yes, it is. The lens is the Contax Zeiss 35mm 1.4
Just found you. You deserve a lot more subscribers.
Thank you. 🙏
Love the videos and really love your work! Thank you for the inspiration.
Thank you!
This was super helpful! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks!
My man, probs for the good Videos! Keep on the good work! Thoughts on doing a test video on ektar e100?
Thank you. You must mean Ektachrome? Possibly in the future.
Rad video dude!
hi kyle! i recently want to try out the portra 400 but im unsure how to use it correctly. I watched the exposure test you did, but i would like to learn more. If i shout the 400 at iso200, how do i play around with the F stop and exposure?
You'd just use your camera normally, as you would in any other situation. Maybe I don't understand the question fully?
thank you so much for this video
Very helpful video!
Immediate subscribe - great work, man.
Thank you!
You are very knowledgeable regarding film but most of all I love the way you present this knowledge. Not flashy or with arms waving around like a lunatic like some on here do. Very calmly and slowly. Great stuff.
Thank you!
Is it bad to shoot at varying ISO speeds from box even though the camera is on Aperature mode so the exposure is always perfect and the photos come out looking fine? I shoot at box speed more recently with auto DX mode on but when I first got my Nikon F801 I started varying the ISO on Ektar 100 to say 800 on one shot then 640 on the next and so forth to get higher shutter speeds when i needed them, all the pictures on the roll come out correctly exposed but I hear different things about it especially when it comes to development process.
You could change your ISO setting on your camera throughout a roll of film, and come out of it with images that look fine, but it all depends on how much variance, and if you're under or over exposing. With Ektar, shooting at 800 would be underexposing the film by 3 stops, which definitely would not look good. So just keep in mind what you're changing it to and how much you're changing the exposure.
@@KyleMcDougall Thanks!
Thank you, very important stuff.
Right on bro!
Do the labs adjust the white balance? I find that if I use the auto wb feature in Lr on my scans, the photo completely changes from blue to green for example with fuji pro 400h. I'm guessing green is more what it's supposed to be. Hence why I'm thinking that I should get a scanner and just do it myself. How does wb work with labs?
Auto WB in LR isn't the best way to judge things. As for labs adjusting white balance... your scans that you get back should be corrected. If anything, scanning yourself at home is a more difficult process to try and achieve proper WB.
@@KyleMcDougall unfortunately I'm color blind. I'm deficient with many shades of green and red so doing it by eye is not something my brain is wired to do and i have a hard time believing that snow should be blue in a Fuji pro 400 scan which is what I get back from the lab. Hence why I go the auto wb or wb picker route. I have to work within my limitations of color blindness. Thanks.
so whats the point of over exposing if they put it back down in post?
Most of the time, overexposing by half a stop or a stop is a good way to ensure good shadow detail.
I have a Yashica FX 70 Quartz, do you, by any chance, know anything about it? I’m starting with Film and I’m anxious about it lol
Sorry, don't know much about that particular camera, unfortunately. Have you searched for a manual online yet?
Great video!
I was just wondering, in regards to exposure, whether or not a light meter app on a phone is sufficient considering the latitude of exposure found on some of these films stocks. Will an app provide accurate enough information, or is it better to get a separate light meter for non-professional/recreational work?
Thanks
The light meter apps can work just fine, but it all just depends on the environment and type of lighting situation. If you can afford one, I’d recommend purchasing a separate light meter. But, I have used an app before for a few rolls of film and it was accurate.
I've considered buying a separate one for a bit, but it's out of my price range for the moment. I'll stick to the phone app for now, until I can afford to buy one. Thanks for the advice and the quick response :)
Your content is really great. I need more!
Thank you! That's a useful video. : )
I didnt understand one thing. If i have a 200 iso film, in my camera could i push the iso to 400 or 600 etc?
Milene Almeida: Yes....but your photos will probably be under-exposed (too dark).
so.. what's the purpose of over exposing if you get more or less the same result out of a film scanner???
To get a 'thick' negative and avoid any noise/flatness from underexposure.
So I have a question, I know you mentioned working with a lab etc but I’ve also seen you scan your own film as well. Do you use a combination of both in your workflow? Or do you mainly develop and scan your own film? Trying to figure out what’s the most cost effective for me
Now that I'm not travelling, and mainly shooting 6x7, I've been scanning my own, just because it is a bit more cost effective. But if using a lab was the same price, I'd probably go that route. Give up a little bit of control for time. I'm really bad with catching up on scanning my negatives.
Kyle McDougall thank you that’s good to know. Do you do your own development then for your 6x7s or do you just have a lab develop and you scan?
I currently have my film developed at a lab. Again, all comes down to time for me. And the cost savings for developing at home aren't as high as for scanning, at least where I am.
Kyle McDougall cool that’s what I have been figuring out as well just wanted to see your thoughts on it. Appreciate it!
Thank you. When I was shooting Ektachrome or Fuji Provia slide, I would adjust my exposure compensation +.5 or +1 or even +2 and I got very rich colours, especially shooting in Rockies. More detail in the highlights and the blue skies came out very rich.
as usual an excellent video
THANK YOU
I'm 13 and new to film. Thanks for the video helped alot
Any difference between setting iso 200 on iso 400 film and setting my camera to +1?
Nope, same thing.
Kyle McDougall thanks!
Typically you set the ISO to the speed you want to rate the film at and leave it set for the whole film. You use exposure compensation +1/-1 when you think the built in light meter won't give you the correct exposure reading because it can't cope with the lighting conditions spot lit, back lit etc. So exposure compensation is typically on for a few frames to cope with difficult lighting conditions and then switched back to 0, whereas ISO is set at the start of the film and left for the whole film.
First: Great Video! Thank you Kyle. My question: I'm dealing with that over- / underexposure at the moment. It was logical for me to meter a 400 film at 200 in lower light situations to get it lighter, that makes sense. But then i heard, that it's also possible to meter a 400 film at 800 for example and let it develop (longer) as an 800 and not an 400 film - this would give an overexposure at the developing and the ability to shoot at a faster shutter speed in a low light situation - so now i'm confused - which way is right or are their both? Maybe you can answer this before i develope my films and find it out. Thank you very much for your help and time.
Hey there, the best thing to do is to test it out and see what you prefer. Shoot a roll as 800, and have it developed the same. And then also shoot a roll as 200 and get it developed normally.
Very helpful 👌