This solution is exactly what I've been looking for so thank you for putting it out there. My garage is smaller than yours by quite a bit and I'm m only running one of those 5000W heaters.
Great idea! Careful with those bare ground wires though, they look like they are routed super close to the 120v L1 and L2 terminals on the relays. Maybe they could be routed to the side so they won’t accidentally touch
Just got a small baseboard heater that is 240v. I wasn't paying attention when I bought it and was shocked that they wanted a line voltage thermostat. I AM NOT running 8ga freaking wire to the other side of the room. Nor do I like the idea of messing with essentially a 240v switch wet out of the bath (even with my GFCI breaker for the circut). I thought this would work and am glad to find some confirmation. Thermostat wire is WAY cheaper than that monster copper.
hey buddy question i have a CZ230ER 7,500 Watt i hooked everything up it ran for 5 mins then it gave me a E2 code ive tryed to call the company but no answers how can i reset it ? thank u
Great Idea will be doing it soon. Maybe on mine, seeing it will be in a greenhouse, I will take advantage of the Y1 terminal also and use a separate relay for cooling. To open a vent and turn on a fan. I have a z-wave Thermostat in there for electric heat but it does not allow me to get below 10C, No off control using Z-wave. With Nest it has an off control. Thank You for the great Idea and video.
I have a question .. what's the box to the right of the doorbell transformer? in the video you just indicate it's the 120v input to feed the 2 transformers but I'm curious about the part itself .. it looks like a computer power cable. is it just plugged into a standard 15amp outlet?
Have you ever thought about selling those units I have a single unit heat pump but 240 volts high voltage I'm looking for something ideal as you have please get back to me thanks Rich
That exactly what I envisioned in my head. I work with those components daily. I am very comfortable making one. However the unit is for my bedroom. I don’t want to hear mechanical contactors clicking on and off. Are your contactors solid state?
Can I do this for one single 10,000W 240v heater? My unit has an internal thermostat that gets hot too fast and shuts off before the garage is warm, inside there is a terminal for an optional external thermostat, I was thinking of getting a transformer so that I can connect 16 awg from that external thermostat terminal on the heater into the common and 240v side of the transformer and then use NEST thermostat into the 2 connections on low voltage side. Does this sound like a standard thing to do in my situation or am I about to fry my units or kill myself?
I would think the transformer is constantly "on" so that the thermostat will always get power. As long as the 24VAC transformer supplies a constant current (same as what a regular heating/cooling system provides) the Nest batteries will be always charged.
your project is great but beeing an electrician i can say to you the box you used is not to code for 220v its a comunication box low voltage and on the wire going in the box you need conector if you have a fire the insurance will give you problem you whant a box with 1/2 inch hole so you can put wire conector on it
I was waiting for a comment from a certified electrician :) I of course understand what you are saying and respect it. Thanks for watching and the comment.
So to clarify, there is not a problem with low voltage and 120/240 voltage being in the same box -- it's just that the romex needs to come through a terminal adapter with a locknut & bushing if using an appropriate PVC junction box?
Yeah I guess I went with the bulletproof approach on that one... The second 24V transformer is probably not needed but wanted to make sure the contactors were getting all the current they needed and also wanted to isolate the NEST thermostat, since these guys sure aren't cheap! Also didn't want to burn down the workshop so there's a mechanical thermostat inside each heater that would stop the heaters in case the contactors get stuck and the temperature gets too high (they are set to around 21 degrees celsius). Hey thanks for watching and the comment!
@@ColinRichardson I think what Colin is asking -- why not connect to a 240-volt TRANSFORMER. The 120-volt transformer uses an extra 120v circuit -- why not use a 240volt to 24VAC transformer using one of the existing 240-volt cables? Found some on amazon for $13.
Nope, I actually just meant, get a better thermostat. One that is designed to use 220-240vac. Should be plenty of them in the world since 2/3rds of the planet use them.
@@ColinRichardson They only sell in line thermostats that support up to about 5200 watts, many garage heaters go above that so it's not safe. Also you have to run 10/2 or larger cable to the thermostat and then back, which can be more expensive and cumbersome to install, compared to some tiny 18ga thermostat wire for 24VAC. Also none of those in line thermostats except mysa have WiFi capabilty, and those actually support less than 4000 watts. So having cool wifi with garage heater requires hacking something out. If you find otherwise please let me know lol I'm about to try this.
This seems unnecessarily complicated. Theres no need for separate transformers. A standard 40VA transformer would have no problem powering a thermostat and two contactor coils. The extra relay that activates the contactors is pointless too. Why not just have the nest directly power the contactor coil? That's how it works in a normal central HVAC system anyways. The only reason I can see is because you powered the stat and the contactors from different transformers, which was unnecessary in the first place. Even the second contactor was unnecessary. Just wire both units to one contactor, unless you're trying to implement some sort of staging. Just wire the secondary side of the transformer to R and C at the nest. Wire the contactor coil to W and C. Wire incoming power and the primary side of the transformer to the line side of the contactor. And then wire the heaters to the load side. 1 transformer, 1 contactor, done.
Your setup is too complicated for nothing. You can eliminate the doorbell 24VAC transformer aswell as replace the 3 conductor cable going to the thermostat by a 2 wire and it will work the same. The less components in your system, the less chance of failure. -Yours Truly, Master Electrician
@@AlekseiPetrovski Nest is what we call a "power stealing" thermostat all you have to do is run it in series with a 24VAC relay's coil and it's power supply and the thermostat will charge itself when the there is no call for heating/cooling, that said.. it does require 24VAC to charge. Thing is.. it doesn't need it's dedicated power source
@@JonTheChron thanks for explanation. Is it possible that if thermostat will call for heat for let's say 3 hours, battery will drain and thermostat will shut off?
@@AlekseiPetrovski Very possible, it happened to me. If you have the possibility to pass a 3 wire cable, do so. In my case I didn't have the. choice, the existing cable was a two wire.
@@AlekseiPetrovski Also I didn't mention that it being a smart thermostat, it will usually shut off for a few minutes every now and then to recharge if the battery gets too low. I have 5 nest E and 1 regular unit in my appt complex and sometimes the demand can run for 14hrs + straight and the nest doesn't die.
This solution is exactly what I've been looking for so thank you for putting it out there. My garage is smaller than yours by quite a bit and I'm m only running one of those 5000W heaters.
Great idea! Careful with those bare ground wires though, they look like they are routed super close to the 120v L1 and L2 terminals on the relays. Maybe they could be routed to the side so they won’t accidentally touch
Curious if you can use this setup for a 240v window air conditioner the same way. That way I can control both the AC and the heat in tandem
Fancy that! I searched for this and lo and behold, I want to do the same thing and I have the same garage heater! :)
Just got a small baseboard heater that is 240v. I wasn't paying attention when I bought it and was shocked that they wanted a line voltage thermostat. I AM NOT running 8ga freaking wire to the other side of the room. Nor do I like the idea of messing with essentially a 240v switch wet out of the bath (even with my GFCI breaker for the circut). I thought this would work and am glad to find some confirmation. Thermostat wire is WAY cheaper than that monster copper.
Great video. Can you provide part/spec info on the Mechanical Thermostats you have in each heater as a fail safe? Thanks
hey buddy question i have a CZ230ER 7,500 Watt i hooked everything up it ran for 5 mins then it gave me a E2 code ive tryed to call the company but no answers how can i reset it ? thank u
Wouldnt it of been easier just to get a 24V transformer and 4 pole contactor? Then you can power the thermostat and close coil without using a relay
What gage wire you used for your 5,000-watt heater? Can I use 10-2 ?
Great Idea will be doing it soon. Maybe on mine, seeing it will be in a greenhouse, I will take advantage of the Y1 terminal also and use a separate relay for cooling. To open a vent and turn on a fan.
I have a z-wave Thermostat in there for electric heat but it does not allow me to get below 10C, No off control using Z-wave. With Nest it has an off control.
Thank You for the great Idea and video.
can you also do the same to replace a old school 240v thermostat to boiler with a Ecobee 3?
I have a question .. what's the box to the right of the doorbell transformer? in the video you just indicate it's the 120v input to feed the 2 transformers but I'm curious about the part itself .. it looks like a computer power cable. is it just plugged into a standard 15amp outlet?
great idea for baseboard heaters!!! can you share the schematic? Thanks
I love your way in teaching thanks
Why not using only a rc840t instead ?
Aren’t those only rated for 22 amps? A 10,000 watt system runs on a 50 amp breaker
Have you ever thought about selling those units I have a single unit heat pump but 240 volts high voltage I'm looking for something ideal as you have please get back to me thanks Rich
That exactly what I envisioned in my head. I work with those components daily. I am very comfortable making one. However the unit is for my bedroom. I don’t want to hear mechanical contactors clicking on and off. Are your contactors solid state?
Can I do this for one single 10,000W 240v heater? My unit has an internal thermostat that gets hot too fast and shuts off before the garage is warm, inside there is a terminal for an optional external thermostat, I was thinking of getting a transformer so that I can connect 16 awg from that external thermostat terminal on the heater into the common and 240v side of the transformer and then use NEST thermostat into the 2 connections on low voltage side. Does this sound like a standard thing to do in my situation or am I about to fry my units or kill myself?
HOW TO INSTALL QFH- 5000 HOME WELL CEILING HEATER
Great tutorial and website, what brand and model heaters you have?
Had any problems with the nest not being supplied enough power and draining the internal batteries?
I would think the transformer is constantly "on" so that the thermostat will always get power. As long as the 24VAC transformer supplies a constant current (same as what a regular heating/cooling system provides) the Nest batteries will be always charged.
Why not just use one contactor, and just open one 120v leg from each heater?
Why two transformers when one will do? Yeah...
Hi Ivan, Do you do this for people like myself that dont mess with stuff like this?
I can do that, contact us on our website www.bysh.in
your project is great but beeing an electrician i can say to you the box you used is not to code for 220v its a comunication box low voltage and on the wire going in the box you need conector if you have a fire the insurance will give you problem you whant a box with 1/2 inch hole so you can put wire conector on it
I was waiting for a comment from a certified electrician :) I of course understand what you are saying and respect it. Thanks for watching and the comment.
So to clarify, there is not a problem with low voltage and 120/240 voltage being in the same box -- it's just that the romex needs to come through a terminal adapter with a locknut & bushing if using an appropriate PVC junction box?
Great video Buddy! I would have use SSD relays? Super easy 1 24V transformer and two SSDs done? Thanks for sharing!
Yeah I guess I went with the bulletproof approach on that one... The second 24V transformer is probably not needed but wanted to make sure the contactors were getting all the current they needed and also wanted to isolate the NEST thermostat, since these guys sure aren't cheap! Also didn't want to burn down the workshop so there's a mechanical thermostat inside each heater that would stop the heaters in case the contactors get stuck and the temperature gets too high (they are set to around 21 degrees celsius). Hey thanks for watching and the comment!
Just wondering why are you powering the thermostat with 120v? And not just use the 240v for everything?
Colin Richardson 240v will blow the thermostat
@@trevorcole460 get a better one.
@@ColinRichardson I think what Colin is asking -- why not connect to a 240-volt TRANSFORMER. The 120-volt transformer uses an extra 120v circuit -- why not use a 240volt to 24VAC transformer using one of the existing 240-volt cables? Found some on amazon for $13.
Nope, I actually just meant, get a better thermostat. One that is designed to use 220-240vac. Should be plenty of them in the world since 2/3rds of the planet use them.
@@ColinRichardson They only sell in line thermostats that support up to about 5200 watts, many garage heaters go above that so it's not safe. Also you have to run 10/2 or larger cable to the thermostat and then back, which can be more expensive and cumbersome to install, compared to some tiny 18ga thermostat wire for 24VAC. Also none of those in line thermostats except mysa have WiFi capabilty, and those actually support less than 4000 watts. So having cool wifi with garage heater requires hacking something out. If you find otherwise please let me know lol I'm about to try this.
This seems unnecessarily complicated.
Theres no need for separate transformers. A standard 40VA transformer would have no problem powering a thermostat and two contactor coils.
The extra relay that activates the contactors is pointless too. Why not just have the nest directly power the contactor coil? That's how it works in a normal central HVAC system anyways. The only reason I can see is because you powered the stat and the contactors from different transformers, which was unnecessary in the first place.
Even the second contactor was unnecessary. Just wire both units to one contactor, unless you're trying to implement some sort of staging.
Just wire the secondary side of the transformer to R and C at the nest. Wire the contactor coil to W and C. Wire incoming power and the primary side of the transformer to the line side of the contactor. And then wire the heaters to the load side.
1 transformer, 1 contactor, done.
Too many wires,install could be much simpler and only require a 2wire cable to the nest
Thanks... good work
Thank you.
Thanks for watching Nicholas!
Isn't just buying the EU system a better option that one can switch 220-240v maybe just buy a eu heatlink and all is fixed
Your setup is too complicated for nothing. You can eliminate the doorbell 24VAC transformer aswell as replace the 3 conductor cable going to the thermostat by a 2 wire and it will work the same. The less components in your system, the less chance of failure.
-Yours Truly,
Master Electrician
Nest needs 24vac, how then you will power it without transformer?
@@AlekseiPetrovski Nest is what we call a "power stealing" thermostat all you have to do is run it in series with a 24VAC relay's coil and it's power supply and the thermostat will charge itself when the there is no call for heating/cooling, that said.. it does require 24VAC to charge. Thing is.. it doesn't need it's dedicated power source
@@JonTheChron thanks for explanation. Is it possible that if thermostat will call for heat for let's say 3 hours, battery will drain and thermostat will shut off?
@@AlekseiPetrovski Very possible, it happened to me. If you have the possibility to pass a 3 wire cable, do so. In my case I didn't have the. choice, the existing cable was a two wire.
@@AlekseiPetrovski Also I didn't mention that it being a smart thermostat, it will usually shut off for a few minutes every now and then to recharge if the battery gets too low. I have 5 nest E and 1 regular unit in my appt complex and sometimes the demand can run for 14hrs + straight and the nest doesn't die.
wow thin wires for 120v 5000w
Its 240v 5000w which is 21 amps.
That's 10AWG Romex which is rated for 30A. He's all good!