Building the Sidon Ship from the Space 1999 episode Voyagers Return
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- Опубликовано: 16 ноя 2024
- A much lengthier video from me this time. Understandable, as it took me a long time to deal with the 3D printing issues then the slog of trying to get a paint match
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I really enjoying of your sharing. Your stories and experience as kid.
Great job! Space 1999 models always bring back good memories for me.
I know, me too! I'm drowning in Eagles! (Happily, I should add.) 😊
Nice model mate, nice shout on looking for someone to print for you, who knew 😉👍
Looks great 👍
Nice looking Terran trade authority/Foss ship design. Also, the Jeff Waynes War of the World look. Great painting.
Should try sanding sticks or sanding pads. Both are sponges with different sanding properties. Each can be cut to size too. Too bad you were not able to talk to the creators in depth on the construction to the finish of painting. You did well.
The checkerboard pattern on the head is a build defect, not your fault. When you model in 3D software you start with a 'primitive'. In the case of that area you'd start with a sphere, and that sphere would be made up of several hundred squares all joined up. The trick with it is to make those squares small enough to form a curved surface. There's tools to do that. If you want to render an image from a model you can simply tell the engine that it should assume anything nearly flat to something else is meant to be a curve and that works very well. For printing, though, you need to have the software break the surface up into many smaller facets. IMHO, this is a stage that was not done for that part for that model, and so, no, it's not your fault, that's an error by the mesh creator.
I know nothing about 3D printing but that's fascinating! Where would a complete beginner start with 3D printing? Is there a good book?
@@Dirty_Hamble Well, it's really a modelling issuenot a print one. For printing I just bought an Elegoo because it was on sale and had a mate walk me through print head orientation and, hsazzuznik. On modelling, I'd probably say, get Blender, and find a RUclips tutorial series by someone you can listen to without wanting to murder. For things like space ships, you'd get the skills sets in a day, it's a lot easier than when I started out. organic shapes, not so much, but, I gether even them's is easier now.
If you had had this printed as a resin print, there should have been no printing artefacts visible on the model - it's odd that they are there - I've never seen that on a resin print before - on a filament print, certainly, but not resin. As an aside,
those filament print artefacts can be removed using the vapour from thinners, though.
There is a RUclips channel called 'Rescue And Restore'. In one episode, he 3D prints a set of chess pieces, and shows how to make a simple way of removing the striated artefacts, using acetone thinner vapour in an enclosed tank. I don't know how well it would work on a really detailed part, but it's a creative answer to an annoying problem.
If your model represents another vessel from the Sidon fleet, it could be the one seen as part of the 'Dragon's Domain' graveyard of ships, before the crew made the rash decision to see what this drifting enigma was...
What the problem looks like is the nose cone section is showing individual polygons, when in a 3D app you can apply a smoothing group that eliminates that look, but for a 3D print it really needed more polygons adding to that area otherwise they show up as individual faces like in the print.
"I've never seen that on a resin print before"
On a resin print, or a resin kit?
Print defects like that are fairly common on resin prints, the medium is a liquid and there's just no way to guarantee there won't be swirls and whirls and bubbles and whatnot floating in the mix, especially when a part that size would have required the tank be topped up at least once during the lift. You can never be sure that there won't be little bubblets which have a wee bit more binder to medium, or t'other way round, just no way. Nor can you absolutely be certain that the UVLED will give the correct amount of light to that part at the stage every time. It's just not how the biscuit bubbles.
On resin kits, though, which are poured into normal moulds, I'd agree, those defects ought not appear, but then if we're talking resin moulds and resin prints we're talking about apples and the collected works of Jimothy Hoederheimmer.
To me, there are three different errors and they're each a different cause. The checkerboard pattern is caused by failing to subdivide the part while assembling. Not a product of resin printing, that's a build mistake. The doowhat on the underside of the thingy looks like a support grid error - the armature was placed too close to the body and so the mounting helmet is embedded further than it should be and broke off. Arguably a print assembly error but, you know, there's fricken hundreds of support arms you can't check 'em all all of them time. Lastly the droop on the engine flange is likely a medium failure. Some little squirt of whatever, maybe medium mix, maybe lighting, maybe just the mass, maybe a cross cook, no idea, but, it happens, it's a gloopy-droop
If you've seen a lot of resin PRINTS and never seen these errors, I dunno what to say - it is theoretically possible to walk through a rainstorm without getting wet simply by pure coincidence. Maybe you're just the dry spot on a soaked beach, that little bit that all the drops missed.
You really have to spray the color on a test subject. Don't depend on the cap color they are always different than the actual paint