Moving 10 year old Nissan Leaf to the new house in Jessheim
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
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I don't even care that much about EVs, It's just fun to watch you be so enthusiastic for life and having fun.
Congrats on moving to your new home. It's a big improvement, I'm glad the moving part is finally D-O-N
E
@@LetsTakeWalkyou are probably not a frequent viewer 😜
Since I have no garage, what I tend to do in winter is plan for the car to finish AC charge shortly before departing on any longer trip.
That way the battery gets some extra degrees from the charging itself to start with, meaning less heat loss on the way and a bit higher capacity too. I actually save on heat energy twice, first I utilize the heat from the charging (that would otherwise dissipate if done too early before driving) and second through the reduced heat loss when driving :)
Thanks for the tip 😊. I also have no garage and a little scared for the winter.
@@quentinlangenaken7851 What I forgot to mention is of course this also improves DC charging speed for cars with no preconditioning!
Like my e-208. "Luckily", the cold battery heat losses seem to be quite high, so if I depart with full, it gets warm enough to give a reasonable charge speed by the time I have 10-20% left, although not the full 100kW.
Same strategy with garage 👍🏻
And of course it's better for the battery to have it not charged up to 100% for a long time.
@@Tomaskom
So far i know the battery heater is on when you receive more than 20kW. And also when you charge DC.
I've got an e-C4 with the same drivetrain.
@@879cc I'm pretty sure there is only one scenario when any of the PSA/Stellantis eCMP platform cars actively heat up the battery with the integrated heater, and that is when the temperature would fall below -15°C, to protect it.
It has no preheat before or during a charge, only the heat loss in the battery (that increases with low temperatures due to higher internal resistance of the cells) heats it up. I recorded many cold charge sessions under various conditions with CarScanner to get a map of charge speeds depending on temperature and SoC. There is no visible difference below 20kW and above. Btw getting less than 20kW requires sub-zero temps in the pack unless your SoC is quite high.
There is also no way to get 20kW into it on AC (max 11kW three phase, 7kW single phase), so not sure what you mean by "also when you charge on DC". It can be done only on DC.
If you think it's a heater just because the temperature rises, be sure that's not the case. It's just the internal resistance leading to heat losses in the cells. Same thing happens when driving, especially at highway speeds. If a heater was on the charge station would have to show significantly more power draw than the CarScanner shows flowing into the battery, which is not the case (if you turn of the cabin heater of course).
Type 1 will stop charging when you press the button to release the latch. Also, the pilot line pin will disconnect before the power pins (it is shorter). This is to allow charging to stop before the power pins are disconnected. Bjørn pulled the plug very quickly, so the latter protection did not work. Also it looked like his Type 1 plug did not have a latch. While CCS1 is not so great, Type 1 AC has been working fine for my use since 2011.
CCS1 and CCS2 is identical except for the connector. It's the charging networks that are the problem, not the connector itself. But all in all NACS is better than CCS1, since you get a sleeker connector without losing anything.
@@Karreth CCS2 is a better connector than CCS1. We don’t need 3-phase support that CCS2 has, but the latching mechanism on the CCS1 connector causes issues that CCS2’s latch does not have.
@@georgepelton5645Originally the difference was that Type1 stopped charging when pressing the latch and you could then remove the connector. So anybody could stop your car from charging. With Type2 the car locks the connector and then enables charging. Nowdays some cars will physically lock the Type1 latch so it can't be pressed down and interrupt the charging process.
Extremely sad is that the current model L eaf still has no decent thermal management.....who buys this crap?
Villa for the win! My dream is to have a heated garage floor one day.
Congrats on your new house. Going to miss seeing my neighbourhood and my house in most of your videos.
great to see you have new house , up and running .. and also a warm garage , such luxury....
Its crazy how much better EV are now. Realized it after buying a Twizy again 😂 welcome back range anxiety 😜 but I love it still…
Go Frankenstein you got this 😂
You look like you're in heaven with your new garage. Bjorn's Man Cave! 🚗
It'really men's heaven 😊
Those early Japanese built Leaf are really best to avoid. Poor battery chemistry, no heat pump (and unreliable resistive heater), no light under the charging hatch, electronic handbrake and the dashboard on the very early ones doesn't even show the battery percentage, it's just the GoM. I've had my Sunderland built 24kWh for four years now and it's great little car.
Happy to find out how classic Ioniq copes with the task vs the Leaf
12:40 one of the reasons I love my 2014 Renault Zoe, such a good car
I had a 2013 Zoe 2015-2022...some winters were really hard.
But anyway, it was a good time 😊
@@879cc Have had mine for 2 years, bought it as my first car for 5500€, handling the northern Swedish cold very well! :)
Nice video as always.
A couple of tips
Put in an air-air heatpump. Then you can have deacent temp in the garage ( the insulation should be above 15 degrees to avoid moisture build up inside the walls ) . It also dries out the air.
The stack of drywall which i standing direct on the concrete ( put som distance underneath so it doesnt get wet and destroyed )
Also, it would be a good idea to install a heat exchange ventilation system like Mitsubishi Lossnay.
Heat pumps does not dry the air when in heating mode.
@@HermanTheHacker yes is does.
I have calibrated moisture sensors in my garage. Since i installed the air to air heatpump the moisture lever have dropped by 6% at the same temp.
And there is an option : heat and dryer. In the winter i have that option if the garage is at a higher moisture level.
Also i work every day with moisture problem at an insurance company 👍
The garage is already heated with heatpump. There is the air to water heatpump.
@@fredrikholm6340 Please explain why air-air Heat pump dries the air? Higher temp will give lower %RH, but not dry the air.
Those are some high dollar taxi rates Bjorn. After two trips, you're hitch hiking lol. All the best to you and yours.
Respect to the man in the icecreamvan!
You can for sure not build a regular garage for 50k NOK.
All the best on moving to your new house. Love your new garage.
When are you going to test Model 3 Highland SR and LR?
“Don’t need that testicle anymore”😂😂 😂
Congrats on getting everything moved and the old house sold. Now, on with the new
A Type 1 Plug will interrupt charging once you press the release button, just wait 2 seconds, than charging has stopped and you can safely remove the plug.
Thanks for the vid! So, are you going to repair the Frankenstein Leaf battery to a higher capacity, or is that going to get scrapped soon?
900nok that's like more than 1000km driving
4 months of busy driving with an Ioniq 28kWh
Have you isolated the heating system which gives you +5-10% of range?
You say whaaaat? Wife is pregnant again?! My congrats, you make up a good father, wish all the best for all your family.
P.s. prices in Norway are insane compared to Southern Europe
How is it with mold in heated vs non-heated Norwegian garages?
Cool new house.🎉
This ancient car sometimes shows line of sight distance to destination. I think it is if there is blue trafik sigh with white arrow. Once you start driving it shows road distance and the sigh is removed. I was also confused also why it sometimes show so short distance.
By the way type1 should be equipped with mechanical lock with switch and once you pres it, it stops current. No sparking should happen if it works right way.
Have Bjørn talked about his plans for the garage? I have some cheap Megaflis utendørs tiles in my garage and they have been so good and easy to keep clean. Still looking brand new after 5 years.
Remember to get approval from the municipality to live in the house :) I does not seem to have it (bruks- eller ferdigattest)
how deep ....is your garage
It appears as if someone needs an electric snowblower...... 🤔😅
The pack is only as good as the weakest cell. The LeafSpy SOC reading is misleading when weak cell(s) are present. In that case pay attention to the GID percentage remaining
Hei Bjørn ! What IR camera is it you are using ? Br, Gunnar
Flir One
❤❤❤ Thanks.
Probabily more reliable than melanium falcon.
Can you do the 1000km challenge with the Fisker Ocean?
Loft = Attic
Björn do a batteri upgrade on that leaf get 40kw or something
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I would expect, that you as a EV Guy would setup your house with Photovoltaik / Solar Panels to produce electricity.
Is it planned?
You can live and work in the garage, just rent out the house 😅
Gratulerer med nytt hus ,, ingen tak over ytterdøra?
Kjempefin hus?
is it good idea to put bigger battery to leaf? How much does it costs?
On my Leaf 30kwh , Leafspy say I have last 6kw but I measure and I can only use ~3kwh.
How do you measure?
13:41 have image in discussion. In left say "remaining" and with " - " that used. I reseted used when I had remaining 6kwh
hopes for the best /// may your new upcoming member be ok and all ends in a little pain .. **a little pain** is some short of good wish in these situations in my place..... you can keep your testic for a sensor of bad tests in cars ... also pain in the @ss !!!! .. keep up!!
08:50 That's what I thought when I realized that the US not only uses Type1 but also has a different CCS connector. What the heck? Whats stopping them from using a three phase capable connector?
There is no three phase available at all in US if that was the question.
@@kengucam
Sure there is, but almost all residential is single phase which can be wired for 240V. Most 240V installations supply somewhere between 16 - 48 Amps, so 3.84 -- 11.5 kW. Because residential is single phase, so are the EVs.
Bjorn was complaining about 'Type 1' because it uses only one phase of his 3phase power, and probably at a low amperage to avoid overload if the receptacle is not a dedicated circuit. All in all, perhaps 8Amps at 230V which supplies 1.84kW before losses, perhaps 1.47kW into the battery (that is further reduced by heating consumption).
In US single phase homes, EVs will typically not nerf the amperage if connected to a 240V supply since it is presumed to be a dedicated circuit.
Is this a car or a dustbin??? So small, just a a bad prototype of container... It is not good at all, it looks like a Ford of 2010... Is it 4 times cheaper than the Xpeng G9? I prefer the G9 even if 10 times more expensive, as much bigger, and nicer in everything...
EV NIGHTMARE
it would be fine, if Nissan would build batteries for the 24 kWh Generations. a leaf 2010 with 40-62 kWh would be back in the game. All the owners are also waiting for a ccs chademo adapter. only Norway has more than one plug at one place. Nissan is the nightmare not the Leaf.
Extremely sad is that the current model Leaf still has no decent thermal management.....who buys this crap?
There are places that a Leaf is a perfect car, like a subtropical island where the temps are 20⁰C all year and you aren't gonna do long distances.
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