I understand that the bearing is much smaller. I do explain this in the video. It’s what was available and will likely work for now. Will be addressed if need be in the future but for now it’s an improvement!
More interested why you're providing us with 1080?¿ And not 1080@60fps, better yet 4k@60 it would be a significant improvement either way. Do we not deserve a better experience¿ Cheers from Aylmer ONT
@@enduser1982likely just a mistake on camera settings. Not a huge tech guy so I’ll check the GoPro. I just don’t have the computer or internet available for 4K. Eventually though!
I believe everything is filmed in 4K 60 but in the editing it’s turned down due to the lack of power with my computer. I also tried to upload a 4K 60 video about half hour long and it took over 24 hours of uploading. I live in the bush but should have fiber this summer. I’ll make those changes though.
I am curious though. What is the issue in the frame rate that was used? I am a shop fabricator guy and working on learning more about the whole computer filming side. Continuous improvements is what I am trying to do!
I really like the design on this 1998 3000. It’s simple powerful engine 80hp is like twice you see in this size now and it’s got brand name parts. I mean it’s not perfect but I just have a love for it. Knew it as soon as I seen it!
I dig the loader rehab stuff. I was looking at that bottom upper flange and thinking, ‘That is way too thin and why did the previous owner only add the little ear around the bolt?’ Thicker and hardened where the bolt goes through will save this thing a butt load of grief in the future.
You bet sir! In part two I cut that whole flange off and make a new one and weld it on! As greasy as I get it’s still fun working on it. Different from the building and fabricating I usually do!
If you need to do this again in the future. Try just getting a larger rod eye bearing and then make a bushing to press into that. That way you get the size you want but can keep the original pin/bolt size. One place I know for sure has them is surplus center. They always have a few different sizes in stock. And they are cheap.
make sure you take care of the transfer case. those parts were made for swinger only. if those gears or the yoke for the driveshaft gets chewed up you have to either find a parts machine or have new ones custom made at a machine shop
Okay good to know! I plan on changing the oil in it. I see there are a couple shaft seals to replace as well. So I’ll make sure it stays full until I get to that. Thank you for the heads up!
Yup you bet. It’s sorta the do what you can with what you have repair. As mentioned it’s not all that hard to split so if needed I’ll revisit in the coming years
Safety link. All articulated wheel loaders have them. It's used when someone is servicing in the swing area to prevent the machine from accidentally turning / pinching anyone working in that area.
d9nt forget to purge out the old grease from the reused bearing and replace the zerk. drilling out the grease passage for the new one is probably covered in pt 2
Yes sir! You know what to look for. Yea it’s all covered in part two. However I didn’t have a replacement zerk that size had to order! Thanks for watching!
Ditto the lower bracket of the upper bearing support. Could be the lens but it looks like it has been bending. These are the brackets on the house portion of the loader.
Yes sir. The lower one is 3/4” plate so it’s actually what keeps everything from flexing when tight. The top bracket on the bottom just locates the bolt. But it’s been replaced! That’s in the part 2!
Never seen a spherical bearing with a bolt on housing like that on a pivot steer machine, usually the bearing presses into the machine frame and when the bearing breaks up or gets loose you have to weld and line bore. A lot of older British built machines have a smaller top pin but the bottom one is always worn worse.
I know right! The bearings being in removable plates was the only reason I bought it broken like that. I seen that it is repairable without line boring and welding. Equipment I don’t have.
I think I agree that the bottom bearing takes the brunt of the forces when pushing against an obstacle, but I think the top bearing takes a lot of force when lifting a load. So if possible I would go with bearings close to the same size and rating as the original ones. The original engineer probably selected these sizes for a reason. But as you indicated in your reaction to daleolson3506 the project is already finished and I suspect you will be keeping a close eye on how the bearings hold up. Keep in mind that I have no mechanical or engineering background/experience whatsoever, I just hope it works out the way you hope. I do enjoy watching your process of problem solving,
So it’s a 1942 Southbend 16” swing 48” bed. I bought it at auction for $1200 and took it completely apart and restored it pre RUclips. I do have a video on installing the DRO!
Yea I looked for a while. Anything new was out of my range. I seen this at a local auction and bought it sight unseen. It’s a pretty cool piece of history as it was build in WW2 and still works great. Also sorry it’s belt driven from the motor and gear driven to the carriage.
It didn’t seem to that troublesome disassembling. Hopefully this repair will last you for a while. You might be surprised if you do longer videos on how they might do on your analytics 😉
I do longer videos up to an hour. But this was going way past that. I have actually found that up to 45 min is best much more and people just don’t watch.
For sure! I wasn’t too focused on proper speeds and feeds and more of just cutting that weld out. On an 80 year old machine there isn’t that many speed options.
You know what I actually just learnt that’s the name today from a guy in the Facebook group. But from my research finding ones of that size is very difficult. Lots of cat 1’s and 2’s which aren’t much different then the bearing I put in. I need to find a Cat4 ball and socket. I’ll keep looking to buy one for the future when this bearing wears out. But for now it’s working!
@@CenterLineDesignsthat’s the style they have used in tractors for decades. The big buds have used them for 50 years. I just watched Welker farms replace one recently.
It’s weird because I looked and looked and called bearing companies. If you ever see the actual ones I’d love the link to purchase one. That big Bud is going to be so cool
That upper plate on top of the bearing in the lower mount was flexing way too much when you were pounding out the worn bolt. I would be checking its weld and thinking about beefing it up with heavier stock. If it flexed that much when you were pounding on it I would suspicion it is flexing while under load as well.
It’s been replaced but that flex isn’t an issue. That’s just the second mount. The lower portion is 3/4” plate and didn’t flex at all. It doesn’t see forces like that just laterally
I am a retired mechanical engineer and discovered a fellow in Australia that is a very good repair of large Cat trucks, scrapers, graders and such. You might check him out as he not only does the work but explains what he is doing. Here is a link to his youtube, www.youtube.com/@CuttingEdgeEngineering
Yes! I love watching Curtis! I look forward to every Friday morning to watch his weekly video and have a coffee! He does fantastic work. I have honestly learnt so much from him! I am striving to get better and better. I definitely have a lot to still learn. I mechanic just gave me a 3/4” socket set because he couldn’t stand seeing me use adjustables. I don’t like them either but it was all I had.
@@CenterLineDesigns I am glad you like ol' Curtis, I have leaned a lot from him, maybe someday I'll get to use it. 😄 Curtis uses his adjustables a lot which makes me mumble things to my computer but he is good even with them. Glad you got the socket set, that is awesome, good guy, him.
He is a master for sure! I prefer to not use adjustables but they do have their purpose. I don’t wrench a ton so just not set up with the bigger tools yet. But now I am starting. Just FYI you will see the adjustables come out in PT 2…. Finished the jobs before I got the kit! Cheers!
I understand that the bearing is much smaller. I do explain this in the video. It’s what was available and will likely work for now. Will be addressed if need be in the future but for now it’s an improvement!
More interested why you're providing us with 1080?¿ And not 1080@60fps, better yet 4k@60
it would be a significant improvement either way.
Do we not deserve a better experience¿
Cheers from Aylmer ONT
@@enduser1982likely just a mistake on camera settings. Not a huge tech guy so I’ll check the GoPro. I just don’t have the computer or internet available for 4K. Eventually though!
@ if you can do 1080p .. you can please give us 1080 @ 60 :)
I believe everything is filmed in 4K 60 but in the editing it’s turned down due to the lack of power with my computer. I also tried to upload a 4K 60 video about half hour long and it took over 24 hours of uploading. I live in the bush but should have fiber this summer. I’ll make those changes though.
I am curious though. What is the issue in the frame rate that was used? I am a shop fabricator guy and working on learning more about the whole computer filming side. Continuous improvements is what I am trying to do!
Nothing wrong with a 2 hr video, especially that has wrenching, machining & amazing welding. Great job so far
Ahh thank you sir! Okay I’ll make note of that! Can’t wait to get it part 2 out!
I know it’s probably done,but you need the largest bearing you can get. Carrying around a bucket full of dirt is hard on the top pin.
You are right! It’s complete. Did you watch the whole video? Because I did cover that. Thanks for watching
I had a Swinger 2000. Great machine wish I still had it.
I really like the design on this 1998 3000. It’s simple powerful engine 80hp is like twice you see in this size now and it’s got brand name parts. I mean it’s not perfect but I just have a love for it. Knew it as soon as I seen it!
You've got yourself a new subscriber!
Nice work! I'm gonna have to catch up with your older videos.
Thank you! I appreciate it! We have lots of good fabrication videos you will probably enjoy! Always trying to improve the quality!
Cheers!
@@CenterLineDesigns I've got a wood splitter repower video series. Definitely not as polished as your videos. However, it's running well!
Okay cool I’ll check it out and subscribe
Done! I appreciate how much work it is to get a channel going!
@CenterLineDesigns thank you! You pushed me up to 602! LoL 😂😆
I dig the loader rehab stuff. I was looking at that bottom upper flange and thinking, ‘That is way too thin and why did the previous owner only add the little ear around the bolt?’
Thicker and hardened where the bolt goes through will save this thing a butt load of grief in the future.
You bet sir! In part two I cut that whole flange off and make a new one and weld it on!
As greasy as I get it’s still fun working on it. Different from the building and fabricating I usually do!
The algorithm just found you. Congratulations, you'll be over 100K subscribers before you know it...
Thank you sir! That honestly means so much! I can’t wait let’s do this! So much more to come!
If you need to do this again in the future. Try just getting a larger rod eye bearing and then make a bushing to press into that. That way you get the size you want but can keep the original pin/bolt size. One place I know for sure has them is surplus center. They always have a few different sizes in stock. And they are cheap.
Yea I knew it was small but it’s about all I could find
If you find larger ones shoot me a link if you don’t mind. Love to find something better for the future!
Is surplus center a website? 🤔
Nice going
Thank you!
Don't worry about two hour videos on my account. I enjoy them when they are content rich as yours seem to be.
Thank you sir! It’s honestly way more work to edit videos that long! But I’ll keep that in mind
Great repair. I think it would be safer to reposition the on/off switch of your lathe to the front of the machine.
make sure you take care of the transfer case. those parts were made for swinger only. if those gears or the yoke for the driveshaft gets chewed up you have to either find a parts machine or have new ones custom made at a machine shop
Okay good to know! I plan on changing the oil in it. I see there are a couple shaft seals to replace as well. So I’ll make sure it stays full until I get to that.
Thank you for the heads up!
hind sight is 20/20
Yup you bet. It’s sorta the do what you can with what you have repair. As mentioned it’s not all that hard to split so if needed I’ll revisit in the coming years
The orange link is likely supposed to be used to split the machine apart and pull it back together. There's a lug on the cab side for that.
That is actually a safety to work on the steering cylinders. Just the same as the safety block for when the boom is raised
Safety link. All articulated wheel loaders have them. It's used when someone is servicing in the swing area to prevent the machine from accidentally turning / pinching anyone working in that area.
d9nt forget to purge out the old grease from the reused bearing and replace the zerk. drilling out the grease passage for the new one is probably covered in pt 2
Yes sir! You know what to look for. Yea it’s all covered in part two. However I didn’t have a replacement zerk that size had to order!
Thanks for watching!
Ditto the lower bracket of the upper bearing support. Could be the lens but it looks like it has been bending. These are the brackets on the house portion of the loader.
Yes sir. The lower one is 3/4” plate so it’s actually what keeps everything from flexing when tight. The top bracket on the bottom just locates the bolt.
But it’s been replaced! That’s in the part 2!
Never seen a spherical bearing with a bolt on housing like that on a pivot steer machine, usually the bearing presses into the machine frame and when the bearing breaks up or gets loose you have to weld and line bore. A lot of older British built machines have a smaller top pin but the bottom one is always worn worse.
I know right! The bearings being in removable plates was the only reason I bought it broken like that. I seen that it is repairable without line boring and welding. Equipment I don’t have.
Note to self, pressure wash equipment before starting, use diesel fluid for cleaning part.
Right! Funny is that it was pressure washed for an hour in December. You should have see in before! Probably never cleaned since 1998!
I think I agree that the bottom bearing takes the brunt of the forces when pushing against an obstacle, but I think the top bearing takes a lot of force when lifting a load. So if possible I would go with bearings close to the same size and rating as the original ones. The original engineer probably selected these sizes for a reason. But as you indicated in your reaction to daleolson3506 the project is already finished and I suspect you will be keeping a close eye on how the bearings hold up. Keep in mind that I have no mechanical or engineering background/experience whatsoever, I just hope it works out the way you hope.
I do enjoy watching your process of problem solving,
You bet. I think it will last for a while. Nothing larger available that I could find without converting to a different style
2 houer is great
Sounds good I’ll keep that in mind!
Thats for shore, you should upgrade not downgrade... Nice video
It’ll work for quite a while
That’s a good size lathe for a home shop. What brand is it? Is it geared or belt driven?
So it’s a 1942 Southbend 16” swing 48” bed. I bought it at auction for $1200 and took it completely apart and restored it pre RUclips. I do have a video on installing the DRO!
@ thank you for the response. I’m looking for something for my shop. I’ll definitely be on the lookout for one.
Yea I looked for a while. Anything new was out of my range. I seen this at a local auction and bought it sight unseen. It’s a pretty cool piece of history as it was build in WW2 and still works great.
Also sorry it’s belt driven from the motor and gear driven to the carriage.
It didn’t seem to that troublesome disassembling. Hopefully this repair will last you for a while. You might be surprised if you do longer videos on how they might do on your analytics 😉
I do longer videos up to an hour. But this was going way past that. I have actually found that up to 45 min is best much more and people just don’t watch.
@ I understand. I like your content. Keep them videos rolling buddy!
Thanks you!
Blue and purple chips usually mean too fast on spindle speed. Lathe or mill.
For sure! I wasn’t too focused on proper speeds and feeds and more of just cutting that weld out. On an 80 year old machine there isn’t that many speed options.
@@CenterLineDesigns the glowing hot chips would be when you're hitting the hard bearing race
The outer race isn’t actually hard as it’s a low carbon weld in. The insert was also worn
what the measurements on the bearing you removed?
1” ID and 4.5” OD
The part you are replacing is not a spherical bearing. It is called a ball and socket. They are sold at most farm supply stores.
You know what I actually just learnt that’s the name today from a guy in the Facebook group. But from my research finding ones of that size is very difficult. Lots of cat 1’s and 2’s which aren’t much different then the bearing I put in. I need to find a Cat4 ball and socket. I’ll keep looking to buy one for the future when this bearing wears out. But for now it’s working!
Thank you for the name. Funny that never came up in my research
@@CenterLineDesigns The cat 4 are 2 inch inside diameter, you would have to sleeve it.
@@CenterLineDesigns I found that they are available in Europe but kind of hard to find in America
Oh I see. Then even harder yet to get to Canada!
Any reason why they went with spherical? Why allow it to flex so much? I agree with the other comment. Bigger is better.
No idea. That was all that was available from my research! It will have to do for now
@@CenterLineDesignsthat’s the style they have used in tractors for decades. The big buds have used them for 50 years. I just watched Welker farms replace one recently.
It’s weird because I looked and looked and called bearing companies. If you ever see the actual ones I’d love the link to purchase one.
That big Bud is going to be so cool
That upper plate on top of the bearing in the lower mount was flexing way too much when you were pounding out the worn bolt. I would be checking its weld and thinking about beefing it up with heavier stock. If it flexed that much when you were pounding on it I would suspicion it is flexing while under load as well.
It’s been replaced but that flex isn’t an issue. That’s just the second mount. The lower portion is 3/4” plate and didn’t flex at all. It doesn’t see forces like that just laterally
I noticed the sweatshirt. Are you a Canadian boy? :)
Yes sir!
You couldn't tell by the way he talks?
My guess is N. Ontario, or the prairies. He's not a Maritimer that's for shore!
Wow you sure know your accents eh! NW Ontario! Yea definitely not east coast! Their have their own language all together! 😂😂😂🤦♂️
Lord 'tundering jesus buy.
@
G'way wit' ya!
Someone buy the man some gloves. . . . . and a parts washer!
Haha I know right. I have some nitrile gloves but I find they tear when wrenching. Yes a parts washer would be wonderful!
Steven Guilbeault would be having a hissy fit over the liberal (pun intended) use of the high VOC solvent degreasers.
😂😂 when it works it works eh!
Там нет центра оси между ушами!!!! По этой причине завод установил поворотное устройство
Bro… leaning over the spindle to turn the lathe on is insanely dangerous man. Move the switch to a safer location brother.
you would be better off machining 2 new plates and using a 2 inch pins
You definitely aren’t wrong. Just comes down to time and money. That may very well be something I do in the future.
Boo... Boo... Snowcat content or nothing lol
lol.
What make welder are you using please , like whatcyour doing , I've done some work on heavy EQUIPMENT myself .
I am using an Everlast 253 DPI. It’s a single and double pulse MIg welder. It’s really slick! I highly recommend it.
I am a retired mechanical engineer and discovered a fellow in Australia that is a very good repair of large Cat trucks, scrapers, graders and such. You might check him out as he not only does the work but explains what he is doing. Here is a link to his youtube, www.youtube.com/@CuttingEdgeEngineering
Yes! I love watching Curtis! I look forward to every Friday morning to watch his weekly video and have a coffee! He does fantastic work. I have honestly learnt so much from him! I am striving to get better and better. I definitely have a lot to still learn.
I mechanic just gave me a 3/4” socket set because he couldn’t stand seeing me use adjustables. I don’t like them either but it was all I had.
@@CenterLineDesigns I am glad you like ol' Curtis, I have leaned a lot from him, maybe someday I'll get to use it. 😄 Curtis uses his adjustables a lot which makes me mumble things to my computer but he is good even with them. Glad you got the socket set, that is awesome, good guy, him.
He is a master for sure! I prefer to not use adjustables but they do have their purpose. I don’t wrench a ton so just not set up with the bigger tools yet. But now I am starting.
Just FYI you will see the adjustables come out in PT 2…. Finished the jobs before I got the kit!
Cheers!
Curtis is a top notch guy! Still haven't seen anything he can't do!
Completely agree