I use to replace them every few changes. Never had any issue with leaks doing this. Most oil change kits you can order online from like Amazon or eBay include them however and that tends to be what I buy anymore just for convenience. In that case they get changed…lol.
Great. Video thanks. I just got my Rmax back from the dealer. It was in for the break in service. They suggested they do it. No doubt……cost a fortune! Anyway they said my diffs were full of water. Which I thought was odd. I did one charity group ride which was fairly mild. One relatively deep water crossing. Came in the cab slightly. They said I’d need to check and change the diff oil anytime I go over 17” of water as per the manual. I was riding with another Rmax. He said he’s never had that issue. What’s been your experience. I’ve been riding various machines for thirty years and never had this. Thanks in advance. Bill
Late to the party, ive been un plenty of "puddles" with my new rmax, changing diff fluids as i type...zero water. And as a sealed unit it should be as such. I'd check your vent tubes and seals..
The videos have been great! When doing the very last step of the 3 part series I stripped the drain bolt on the rear diff. Any help of finding a replacement bolt? I have a 2022 r max 1000 and I can’t confirm the part number. Thanks!
So would it alright to go with the Valvoline High Performance SAE 80W-90 Gear Oil instead of the synthetic? It seemed to fall in the wordage that Yamaha states with it being appropriate for conventional Hypoid Differentials .
Thank you for the videos !! I have a full gallon of AGL full synthetic gearcase lubricant and transmission fluid, which was for my Polaris RZR 1000 turbo S (don’t have anymore). The can doesn’t specify the thickness I don’t see. Would it be safe to use on the Yamaha ? Didn’t want to waste it.
It would most likely be fine to run in the diffs but I wouldn’t run it in the transmission unless you can find out if it’s JASO rated and safe for a wet clutch. Meaning there are no friction modifiers in it that would cause clutch slippage.
I do need to do that. I just haven’t bought much for the Rmax or the wildcat and I don’t like to list stuff I haven’t tried in case it’s not any good. There are a few things I could put on there now though.
Since you had a x4 you might be able to help me. My family has expanded and I now need a 4 seater. Im still rocking the first gen wolverine. I love it and have never really wanted anything with more power. I did lift it and did larger wheels and tires as ground clearance was the downfall. I am thinking of just going with a x4 but have really considered just ponying up the extra for the rmax. I know the suspension on the rmax is better. Is it $5000 better ?
The suspension on the Rmax is better stock for stock however, myself as well as everyone who rode in my X4 and has also rode in the Rmax all say the same thing. My X4 on Walker Evans shocks rode nicer than the Rmax with the stock Fox shocks. Now this is mostly as speeds slower than 20-25mph. Once you get over that then there isn’t so much of a difference. So that’s something to consider. But I will say that the Rmax feels so much more stable than the X4 did and the Rmax with it’s longer travel eats up technical terrain and goes back in for thirds! I would say if you don’t do a lot of tricky, technical riding over lots of obstacles and speed and power isn’t a big concern than the X4 would suite your needs well. It is substantial quieter than the Rmax so you have to consider that too. Even upgrading shocks on the X4 you’l still be a few thousand under the Rmax and have a nicer ride at slower speeds from my experience. But for reasons other than just suspension I have to say the Rmax is definitely worth the extra money regardless.
Thanks Jason. I have really enjoyed your vids. Kinda mad at you though. When you upgraded to Rmax you forced my hand into trading up to Ramax4 se. Should have it by end of April.
Thank you for the content as always! You were the reason I purchased a Pioneer 500 and have recently upgraded to a Talon X4. I feel like I need to chime in on your warranty rant though. The dealer/manufacturer can 100% deny you warranty repairs if the repair to be made was due to negligence on the customer's end while maintaining the vehicle. I.E. if you were to drain the engine oil, get distracted in some manner and then forget to fill it or not properly service your air filter and verify that a good seal is made to the intake (both of which can cause severe engine damage). The dealer nor the manufacturer can be obligated to repair your mistake on their dime. If you have, however, been doing your maintenance properly you will have nothing to worry about when it comes to warranty. To add to that, if you have added a heap of aftermarket things to your machine, you can get denied warranty repairs as well due to the products that you have added have not been tested by the manufacturer in that particular application and they can't vouch for how it could negatively affect the reliability. Use common sense and understand the consequences of modifying machines and performing your own maintenance. Always do your services by the book with the products the manufacturer recommends and in the timeline they prescribe. Buy a manufacturer backed service manual and always properly torque fasteners! Please don't condemn dealerships service departments, don't be that guy that only takes them warranty work! Lastly, crush washers are generally around one dollar a piece, do yourselves a favor and replace them every time you do a fluid change. Makes no sense to skimp on a buck when you spend $20k+ for the machine! :)
I suspect we won't ride - different country. But interesting. Thanks. Would it make it any easier to go up on 4 planks under the wheels to raise the machine a bit? Have a good one
Thank you for the service series. Very helpful! And I live close, so ya if you ever want someone to come ride with ya hit me up. I'll bring my rmax4 out and play for sure! Keep up the awesome work jason!
Is this the same on the 2024X2 1000 wolverine 10:35
good stuff..... Thank you sir.
How many bottles of fluid did you buy for the transmission, front and rear diffs to get all three done?
Love the videos. What's your thought on crush washers. Replace or reuse?
I use to replace them every few changes. Never had any issue with leaks doing this. Most oil change kits you can order online from like Amazon or eBay include them however and that tends to be what I buy anymore just for convenience. In that case they get changed…lol.
Great. Video thanks. I just got my Rmax back from the dealer. It was in for the break in service. They suggested they do it. No doubt……cost a fortune! Anyway they said my diffs were full of water. Which I thought was odd. I did one charity group ride which was fairly mild. One relatively deep water crossing. Came in the cab slightly. They said I’d need to check and change the diff oil anytime I go over 17” of water as per the manual. I was riding with another Rmax. He said he’s never had that issue. What’s been your experience. I’ve been riding various machines for thirty years and never had this. Thanks in advance. Bill
Late to the party, ive been un plenty of "puddles" with my new rmax, changing diff fluids as i type...zero water.
And as a sealed unit it should be as such.
I'd check your vent tubes and seals..
The videos have been great! When doing the very last step of the 3 part series I stripped the drain bolt on the rear diff. Any help of finding a replacement bolt? I have a 2022 r max 1000 and I can’t confirm the part number. Thanks!
Glad to help! The part number for the rear diff drain plug is Part #90340-12007-00
Awesome! Greatly appreciated!!
Excellent job! Thank you.
So would it alright to go with the Valvoline High Performance SAE 80W-90 Gear Oil instead of the synthetic? It seemed to fall in the wordage that Yamaha states with it being appropriate for conventional Hypoid Differentials .
Thank you for the videos !! I have a full gallon of AGL full synthetic gearcase lubricant and transmission fluid, which was for my Polaris RZR 1000 turbo S (don’t have anymore). The can doesn’t specify the thickness I don’t see. Would it be safe to use on the Yamaha ? Didn’t want to waste it.
It would most likely be fine to run in the diffs but I wouldn’t run it in the transmission unless you can find out if it’s JASO rated and safe for a wet clutch. Meaning there are no friction modifiers in it that would cause clutch slippage.
@@AppalachianMountainRiders will do .. Thank you so much !!!!!
I found the front diff took way more than .33 i think the book is a little off. Lol easy job though
On your Amazon links, you should update it to show RMAX parts. Kinda like you have for your other vehicles
I do need to do that. I just haven’t bought much for the Rmax or the wildcat and I don’t like to list stuff I haven’t tried in case it’s not any good. There are a few things I could put on there now though.
Since you had a x4 you might be able to help me. My family has expanded and I now need a 4 seater. Im still rocking the first gen wolverine. I love it and have never really wanted anything with more power. I did lift it and did larger wheels and tires as ground clearance was the downfall. I am thinking of just going with a x4 but have really considered just ponying up the extra for the rmax. I know the suspension on the rmax is better. Is it $5000 better ?
The suspension on the Rmax is better stock for stock however, myself as well as everyone who rode in my X4 and has also rode in the Rmax all say the same thing. My X4 on Walker Evans shocks rode nicer than the Rmax with the stock Fox shocks. Now this is mostly as speeds slower than 20-25mph. Once you get over that then there isn’t so much of a difference. So that’s something to consider. But I will say that the Rmax feels so much more stable than the X4 did and the Rmax with it’s longer travel eats up technical terrain and goes back in for thirds! I would say if you don’t do a lot of tricky, technical riding over lots of obstacles and speed and power isn’t a big concern than the X4 would suite your needs well. It is substantial quieter than the Rmax so you have to consider that too. Even upgrading shocks on the X4 you’l still be a few thousand under the Rmax and have a nicer ride at slower speeds from my experience. But for reasons other than just suspension I have to say the Rmax is definitely worth the extra money regardless.
@@AppalachianMountainRiders thanks for your reply. Keep up the awesome videos.
That’s not a HONDA !!
Thanks Jason. I have really enjoyed your vids. Kinda mad at you though. When you upgraded to Rmax you forced my hand into trading up to Ramax4 se. Should have it by end of April.
🏆🏆🏆👍🙏
Thank you for sharing
Thank you for the content as always! You were the reason I purchased a Pioneer 500 and have recently upgraded to a Talon X4. I feel like I need to chime in on your warranty rant though. The dealer/manufacturer can 100% deny you warranty repairs if the repair to be made was due to negligence on the customer's end while maintaining the vehicle. I.E. if you were to drain the engine oil, get distracted in some manner and then forget to fill it or not properly service your air filter and verify that a good seal is made to the intake (both of which can cause severe engine damage). The dealer nor the manufacturer can be obligated to repair your mistake on their dime. If you have, however, been doing your maintenance properly you will have nothing to worry about when it comes to warranty. To add to that, if you have added a heap of aftermarket things to your machine, you can get denied warranty repairs as well due to the products that you have added have not been tested by the manufacturer in that particular application and they can't vouch for how it could negatively affect the reliability. Use common sense and understand the consequences of modifying machines and performing your own maintenance. Always do your services by the book with the products the manufacturer recommends and in the timeline they prescribe. Buy a manufacturer backed service manual and always properly torque fasteners! Please don't condemn dealerships service departments, don't be that guy that only takes them warranty work! Lastly, crush washers are generally around one dollar a piece, do yourselves a favor and replace them every time you do a fluid change. Makes no sense to skimp on a buck when you spend $20k+ for the machine! :)
Another great video! You need a big AMR logo on that bare grey wall :)
I suspect we won't ride - different country. But interesting. Thanks. Would it make it any easier to go up on 4 planks under the wheels to raise the machine a bit? Have a good one
Definitely give you more room to work anyway!
@@AppalachianMountainRiders that's what I was thinking. It looks tight under there
Thank you for the service series. Very helpful! And I live close, so ya if you ever want someone to come ride with ya hit me up. I'll bring my rmax4 out and play for sure! Keep up the awesome work jason!
Ya man! Email me at appalachianmountainriders@gmail.com
Thanks for the 3 service videos.