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Sail Life - Dometic Proheat X30 hydronic heater on a boat, part 3 of 3 - DIY project
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- Опубликовано: 14 авг 2024
- I've finally got heat aboard Athena! 🔥 It's glorious! If you want to learn more about the Proheat X30 here is a link: www.dometic.co...
00:00 Introduction
01:08 Proheat marine installation kit
02:38 Fitting the exhaust thru-hull
02:54 Fill&drain contraption
04:40 Modifying the manifolds
05:42 Carbon monoxide detector and smoke alarm
06:53 Fitting the exhaust
09:34 Filling the system with coolant
12:55 Wiring the Proheat X30, thermostat, and PFC
16:54 Starting the Proheat X30
18:21 03 Error code
20:12 Sound of the fan heater (REAL 6400)
20:22 Sound fo the Proheat X30
22:10 Hydronic heating vs. Dickinson/Refleks
25:46 Next week's project
26:50 Cya!
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Crikey, Athena really does look fabulous Mads. I'm not a big fan of coloured boats anyway, but your beautiful vessel proves that a simple all-white finish works best.
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I like your movies Mads. When it comes to heaters, I would mount a smaller hydronic heater (like an Eberspächer) that also sounds less, and one air heater that is completely silent. Then you also get the opportunity to dry up the boat quickly. I would also install a water heater to store hot water. Then you can choose to run the hydronic heater at given times and always have hot water. This also provides redundancy in two heating systems and you get "free" heat during periods when you run the engine or generator.
Great video! I look forward to Sunday's so I can see your progress. I noticed on your two distribution manifolds you have two unused ports on both the red and blue circuits. If any of the four unused valves were to get bumped open, coolant would leave the system messing up your tidy installation and possibly harming your heater! By simply connecting a short piece of PEX tubing to each set of adjacent unused valves, you would prevent accidental loss of fluid! ...And, it is reversible so you can add additional fan heaters later!
I would suggest putting the air scavenger on the top of your buffer tank (where you did a manual release of air in the video) as air will get trapped there. I think you would only need the one on a small hydronic system like yours. But maybe I’m missing something! Glad you now have heat. Nice system.
If you can possibly install the coolant system bleeders at the highest possible point in the system it would be beneficial. Not totally necessary but will reduce the time to bleed the system, create less mess when bleeding, and ensure that ALL the air is out:) You're doing such incredible work on everything, Athena will be worth a lot more due to a future buyer being able to see all the impeccable work and know that you cut no corners! And I'm sure you'll have every expense captured in an excel file too! Have you thought of creating an owners manual? I would! Have chapters or sections broken out by system such as your solar and charging systems, and have a troubleshooting section for things like the solar panels if they stop working, winterizing section and a summerizing section! And similar to an airplane, you could have cheat sheets for certain common procedures such as coolant system flushing, oil change, transmission oil change, and wiring diagrams. I'm a manufacturing engineer and I design machines. Part of that responsibility includes creating such manuals for operators, setup and maintenance people.
P.S. I absolutely love the look of the all white boat! Looks incredible! But I'm sure it will look even better with stripes and whatever else you decide to do to her!
Hi, my sincere thanks. I m in the path to restore my Maxus 33 and thanks to your videos (I saw most of them..) my task will be much easier.. . "YOU MADE MY SEASON".. Wish you all the best for Christmas to you and to Athena. Best Regards, Fabrizio
Not sure if you'll see this, but mechanical/HVAC engineer here. If you have condensate produced by the exhaust gases, you're going to want to buy or make a "condensate neutralization kit". The nitrogen by products of combustion dissolve in the exhaust condensate and form an acid prior to discharging out that tube. The kit, which can be a section of CPVC pipe filled with sodium hydroxide (lye) crystals neutralizes the acid back to water. Figured this would be preferred over having acid draining into the technical compartment/bilge.
The air snorkel, muffler, closing off the technical compartment, putting a box around the heater should all reduce the noise. Someone else mentioned the possibility of vibration being transferred into your hall and maybe you can isolate it using rubber mounts as they mentioned.
As always a great video with great knowledge and explanations.
Have a merry, and warm, Christmas 😉.
Mads this Mad. Your Tube is my absolute favorite. I think we may have been in contact back when you started. I would go analog on your tank gauging systems. KUS makes excellent level sensors and dual tank panel gauges with backlight and three way switches (T1,off,T2) for water, diesel, waste/holding. Glad you’re healthy again. Keep on pecking away at it. Mine took 5 years after fire 🔥 insurance purchase. Cheers!
MAD on SV Wildflower
27 minutes! Mads, you're spoiling us 😁👍🏻
It wasn't planned :) I was expecting to have to add a bit of Q&A at the end to get to 15 minutes :D
Mads , I am always disappointed when the video ends. In your case, more is better
Really fast 27 minutes... it was more like a 10 minutes feeling :D
Yup. I'm watching your to-do list get smaller and as a result, mine is getting longer. I like your's better.
If we think the heater is loud...wait until the generator in there starts running. Maybe both will cancel each other out. Sound insulating the bulkhead between the technical room and the head should help some too.
Mads you da man and I love Sunday nights when I get to watch your videos. This is a big step and look forward to seeing you knock out more projects. And holy moly is that heater loud. It has some nice benefits but I see a box being built around that eventually. See you!
So glad you have Heat now, and a special thanks to the blue --doohickey. ⛵⛵💛👍👍
Mads, It is also highly advisable to have an outside air source for the fan coils. If you only pull inside air for heating in the fan coils, the interior humidity will keep climbing until you get condensation inside the boat. If you pull a portion of your air from outside and pass it through the fan coils heaters, this air will be warm and drier than inside the boat and will push the moist air out. I have two 6000 btu coils and one 12000 dual fan coil. one of the 6000 btu units pulls 100% outside air and most mornings I do not have any condensation on the ceiling or windows unless it is raining.
You had me at hot water for the head/shower. The system you installed wins. Good grief! Can’t be taking cold showers in cold climates. Sure the stoves are simple but you get so much more from your heating system. Congrats on getting it working!
Merry Christmas! Enjoy that WARM boat!
Mads. As always it's your boat and you do what you want... We just upgraded to a 5Kw warm air heater from eBay, cost £104. lcd screen full control 4 outlets thermostatic etc. Warm air circulates all the boat. The unit is reasonably well constructed. Boat behind us has had one fitted two years no problems. If you do the maths on just warm air/cost and ease of installation its a no brainer. Adding a diesel heated water system from the same far east suppliers is around £300 again the maths it is a no brainer and if one fails there is redundancy.. While the the Dometic is a great system its complicated and takes up loads of space. We wonder if you thought about 12 volt elements to your water clorifier and blown air as a simpler system with more redundancy? Hot water from the sun or battery bank and only using diesel for heating? Just asking? Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Hey Mads, good progress. I've been following a similar trajectory with my 1973 (former) ocean racer Kailua here in New Zealand... though have managed to keep her sailing across the past four years of restoration work. I'm interested to hear about the forthcoming NMEA2000 network and marine electronics as I'm just coming out the back end of that process. In the end I went with Raymarine Axiom MFD and a ACU200 autopilot with a few other wing-dings. Very happy with it, and am now sorting out the last bugs that will enable me into Raymarine's walled garden so I can control the autopilot and set routes from PredictWind (weather-routing) and OpenCPN (chartplotter) running on a nav computer. It's not too hard, but relies on a nifty Yacht Devices wifi gateway.
The other thing I thought I'd mention, is that I spent a lot of time looking into lithium-ion and then decided against it in favour of a lesser known half-way house called Lead Crystal. Its a lot cheaper, but will happily survive full discharge which means you get every amp-hour you pay for... unlike lead-acid which won't come back from a 60% discharge.
Mads ... now you have a third kind of propulsion besides sail and motor ... a jet engine in the back and a lot of friends in the marina ;)
Keep up the great work. Loving your videos, dedication and progress!
The complexity of a mere heating system is remarkable. Only one wire or tube or piece of electronics needs to fail for things to go wrong. Then you multiply by this the numerous other systems and it’s hard to comprehend this complexity. I appreciate your efforts. I’m sure there are any enthusiasts who prefer this level of detail, but it exceeds my total interest. Anyway, Happy Holidays from Connecticut, New England, USA.
Great and thorough discussions of the various systems. On one boat we have in Tromsø we have two coils in the Refleks and with the help a circulator pump provides hot coolant to three radiators. Very nice and quiet. But I will say adding a boiler to augment that heat in real cold weather would be nice. Your installation of the Proheat is certainly more sophisticated than mine but that is OK if not a bit of overkill. We use our Proheat every night during even here in San Diego. We will see if it is needed further south into Mexico. Enjoy the holidays and we look forward to your next episode.
I was watching a couple who were shopping for a boat. They had interview clips from wise old sailors that they'd throw in here and there. One of the wise men is their go to guy for all kinds of questions, and he said something that I actually wrote down in my "cool quotes" file. He said cruising isn't about how much you can fit in your boat, it's about learning to live with less." I thought that was cool. Sometimes, very respectfully, I wonder if you'll ever get out of that harbor. The debug of all those systems separately would be crazy, put em all together and it's gonna be like bringing Frankenstein to life!
I'm an engineer, I design build debug improve machines, then hand them off to production people. Have to create full "owners" manual, troubleshooting, setup, changeover, electrical, pneumatic, hydraulic, manuals also. If I were you I'd be working on that as you go along in the process. A lot of stuff is available online so you don't have to keep everything, but the custom work you've done, the awesome custom work like plumbing, the way you ran electrical, I'd try to get a start on it minimally!
I have a hot water diesel heater onboard and use those type heater matrix blowers... I fitted mini towel rails using the heated coolant lines in the heads (no fans running and zero power consumption and no noise)
The heat is more like heating from home and I had to fit thermostatic valve because it was getting too hot 😜
Mufflers don't really do much but plenty of engine bay sound deadening in you utility compartment will help loads
Cracking job as always 👏 👍
Hydronic is definitely the way to go. Enjoy your Christmas 🎄
Looks great . Insulated box over heater . Add make up air pipe out side. Should low sound. Merry Christmas.
Having run two different Espar heaters in vans, I can confirm the muffler is 100% necessary if you want your neighbors to like you. You can also look at swapping intake and exhaust tubing. I found that the internal texture of the tubing that came with my heaters was causing it to make a lot of high pitched noise. Mine looks exactly like the tubing you have, just a bit smaller. I found some different exhaust tubing with a smoother internal texture locally in the US that eliminated a lot of noise.
I renovated my house whilst living it, no heating no hot water for a winter... my god when I could eventually shower (at home ) and I got my wood burner installed I was in heaven !!
Hey Have a warm n pleasant time this festive season, n entertain us with your THERMAL n FAN lovin humor. Happy Days , n warm nights 2 you. Cheers. Oh Glorious SANDING done.. PRETZEL wiring n routing is ON!!!
I agree on the heater Mads, but I would build the sound proof box for the heater, what a great job you are doing. Merry Christmas.
Someone on my channel recommended your channel to me! Nice videos!
I am always impressed and inspired by the sustained level of detailed planning and craftsmanship displayed.
Nevertheless, that heater sounds like a jet airplane taking off on full afterburner. :-)
oi, I hope you can get that quieter. Such a cool system.
I probably wouldn't have bothered with the filling system. It worked great, but saved very little effort over cycling the heater a few times. It might take decades to break even on that investment, and in the meanwhile you have another kilo of fittings taking up space in your bildge. Maybe if it had been a design goal earlier on... might have been able to implement it more elegantly. I'll keep it in mind. Big thanks for testing it out for us!!!
Mads, when you put the high point vents in, you put the bleeder vent in the horizontal, so the manifolds still have air pockets trapped in the upper half section of the manifold pipe. The optimum configuration (when space allows) is to orient the tee fitting with the bleeder point oriented up so that the bleeder vent is above the manifold. That will allow all of the trapped air to be bled out. On the heater, adding the exhaust muffler and piping the intake will cut the noise level significantly. The industrial standard for prolonged noise exposure is 100 db at 3 feet, so you can use your phone to measure the sound level at one meter before and after each improvement. Gooseneck the combustion air intake above the deck to minimize water getting in. When you build a sound enclosure, it's best to leave yourself an air gap between the unit and the insulation to minimize localized heat buildups. (1-2" is usually enough) Rubber/elastomeric insulators at the mounting points can also reduce noise into the hull structure. Happy Holidays!
Well Mads for the noise from the heater you could do an insulated box inside another insulated box to possibly really cut down on the noise. There is some insulation you can get at least here in the US called Sonolead. It’s 1in fiber glass a layer of lead sheet and another half in of glass. It works rather well.
Wonderful to have heat! :) I still think it would be better to have the electrical panel swing forward rather than swing down. If it swings forward when you sit at the chart table the back of the panel is in front of you easy to work on and the cavity behind the panel is not blocked by the lowered panel to pull wires up or secure them. Just my opinion and it is worth what you paid. :) Happy Holidays
Have a happy and warm Christmas Mads. I got my Sail Life sock hat and it is keeping me warm out here in Minnesota.
Based on the harmonics I can hear from your recording, it sounds like a big chunk of your noise is low-frequency transmissions that are transferring to the cabin wall. There is a high-frequency whine, but that is easy to eliminate with a shroud or loose dampening. In order to eliminate the low frequency, you will need to work on decoupling the heater mount. If you use a meter on your phone to measure the low-end frequency you can look up the vibration decoupling material/durometer that will work best for that frequency.
Oh glorious heating,.. Oh glorious fun sailboat DIY video....Merry Christmas Mads
Hi Mads. Thanks for the video. That heater sounded like a ruddy 747 starting up! I hope the silencing works for you. Regards......
An excellent choice for heat as well as providing hot water.
Knowing how thorough you are, I am sure you've done this, but I didn't see you apply epoxy to the through holes you drilled for exhaust. Awesome work thanks.
Looked like solid fiberglass with no core to me. No core - no need to epoxy
I have a small Webasto hydronic heater and loudest part is the wooden bulkhead (the aft end of a cabin) where the machine is mounted (due to the fine vibration). When you check the heater from the other side you can't believe that it is so loud at the other side of the bulkhead! Try to add vibration damper. This is what will do, too.
I am happy to see you go with a hydronic system! I have a forced air system and having 4" tubes run bow to stern is not the best in terms of storage compartments. I also find that the forced air system seems to run much more than what a Hydronic heater would run, though maybe I'm wrong.
I am looking to switch to a hydronic system. I would love your review video to contain some information regarding real world power consumption as well as timings for how long the heater runs!
You and Teal of SV Basic have more in common than Thickened epoxy. You both have skills well beyond the
norm. Much respect for you both. Thanks for sharing. Cheers
Sunday with a Warm Mads
Of course, you can always have both - a system heater AND a bulkhead heater. That’s what I would do if I lived aboard. I installed a forced air system for the drying effect and the quick heat and it is awesome for both but the little jet engine running at the back of the boat does get a tad annoying after awhile and then there’s the power consumption. Having both would be nirvana. The forced air to get the boat warmed quickly in the morning and the bulkhead to sit quietly around once the boat is up to temp. I know - there’s the extra space but in these colder climes (I live in British Columbia), I’m pretty sure it would be worth it.
She’s a rocket ship Mads!
I live in Seattle and am a regular customer at Sure Marine. I had no idea that they had such a wide reach. I do know that I sure appreciate that they are just down the street from my boat. They are definitely a great resource and have a VERY knowledgable staff that are happy to help.
Good luck working with COVID restrictions.
Happy Christmas and many thanks for your videos, always very well explained. Mike
Like button smashed Mads! Your installation is awesome. I’m sure you’ll get the noise under control once you enclosed the heater and closed the door of your technical compartment. As for the fans, maybe one day you’ll fit radiators and that noise will be gone too, should you wish so.
You are blessed with a warm comfy home on this 4th advent.
Well done, cheers
Great video Mads! Denmark is time zone UTC +1 (summer time is +2 but it looks like it’s definitely not summer :)
Favorite quip of this video: "boat yoga." LOL
It’s great! Some procedures involve having your body in three rooms at once,: head, shoulders and arms stretched out into an engine bay, torso snaking through bathroom, and legs exiting into the galley
During the summer it's "hot boat yoga"
Yeah, that one has some staying power for sure.
Glad you got the heater working and you will not freeze,have merry Christmas and happy new year from Australia
Great installation. I put an exhaust silencer and induction silencer on our Webssto heater and it was really quiet.
When i mounted diesel heaters in boats at my old job. i usually used those rubben dodads with bolts in both ends. to cancel vibrations from the heater on to the boat. i also used to bend the flex exhaust a couple of times. since that dampens the sound on the outlet of the exhaust. be careful with making a box round the heater. it can make inlet temp higher and affect emissions and shorten service intervals. Love you channel and merry christmas from norway :)
@Sail Life You can always try mount the heater on rubber feets to get rid of some vibrations from the heater transmitting to the hull
Hi Mads. I’ve spent the last few weeks binge watching every single video of yours since you bought Athena. Great work you have done! Now very much looking forward to Sunday pm each week! Good luck and keep smiling. 👍
By making the heaters mounting bracket "floating" you will avoid getting the bulkhead to be a base for resonance. Give it a thought.
Some sort of heat is important working in the hard or on the water in the winter. I spent two COLD Chicago winters on the hard working on SVBD 10-12 hours a day and usually 7 days a week in relative comfort inside, using only a small amount of electric heat run off of boatyard shore power.
The yards absolutely did not allow us to be plugged in when we were not there, and the availabile power was just a 15A 120v regular non-marine electrical outlet which I had to use an adapter to connect to the boat's shorepower 30A cord.
It might be as low as -5 degrees F when I got to the boat in the morning, but in only a fraction of an hour a little 750w plug-in electric heater would have the boat nice and toasty inside and plenty warm enough to be a comfortable working temperature. Epoxy work was not an option for most of the winter, but I was still able to do most things inside wearing just shirtsleeves after a not too long of time after I got there in the morning.
We had power to spare to run the house bank battery charger and a few 120v power tools without blowing the breaker unless one of my neighbors decided to plug into the same receptacle that I was using. If I had to run a skill saw, I would simply turn off the heater for a minute or two while I made my cuts. Really, once the boat was warm inside after the initial warm-up of the boat the heater would barely run much, the thermostat shutting off most of the time.
This is only a 35-foot boat and we did insulate the hull well inside that fall before it got too cold our first year on the hard. Even now, it doesn't take much to heat this boat. Most of the time we just light our two kerosene yacht lamps and that keeps us pretty toasty unless it gets really cold out.
Yep, that is how my Espar sounded although it was a higher pitch given the smaller size. After I installed the muffler all I can hear is the water pump. I hope yours does as well. I also added the external air intake and a diffuser. It pulls air from the cockpit so no inside air for combustion. I also found the fans on the Sure fan coils under powered as well as noisy. There are thousands of 120mm fans available and by using a PWM control (Noctua NA-FC1) you can get the most powerful fans for when you need it and then slow them down to make them more quiet and also use fewer 12v amps. I have a couple of Delta PFC122DE 12cm fans that will spin at a max of 6500-rpm's at max 4.8amp draw on the way. they are reported to run on down to 10% power with PWM which will get them down to about the 0.5-amps of the stock fans and almost silent. I will post after I get them installed to let you all know how they work.
DO NOT get the fan speed controls that Sure Marine sells because they are just rheostats and to slow the fan they put a big resistor in the line that lowers the operation voltage. You still use the full power but just have the fan spinning slower.
Very good points. Our Caframos use very little power but should be gold plated for the price.
I sourced on eBay an inexpensive pulse width modulation speed controller for my engine box cooling fan and it works great. Select the correct voltage and amp rating and away you go for about $10
Big thumbs up on the Noctua line of fans. Very powerful and reasonably quiet - silent in a lot of powerful configurations. Their industrial line isn't nearly as quiet as the consumer line but much quieter than the competition.
@@sgtsquiggs I went with Delta fans because I could not find anything to touch them. The best Noctua I could find had 2.34mmH2O pressure and 102.1 m/h flow. The Delta I am getting is over three times those numbers at 7.16 & 351.7 and with PWM I can run them at 30% and match the Noctua numbers.
you probably dont give a shit but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account??
I somehow lost my login password. I love any tips you can give me.
Merry Christmas Mads and Ava! Heat is good no matter what. 😉
So great you finally have heat! I install hydronic systems. We call the fluid 'boiler fluid' instead of coolant. Also I always fill the system with fresh water first and do a pressure test before draining and filling with a 40:60 ratio of boiler fluid to water. Yes exhaust noise is an issue. I am sure adding the muffler will make a big difference. Another drawback of the Reflex or Dickinson heater is the possibility of down drafts that fill the cabin with stinky diesel exhaust!
The lighting in the cabin looks great.
Thanks Mads! I appreciate you posting at the same time every week. I also appreciate you getting as much done as you do, and not milking it out for another five more years. You are awesome! God Jul.
I have a water jacked Reflex stove in our boat. Doesn't fully remove all cons of the Reflex stove you mentioned (i.e. healing problems) but a water based distribution system (small circulation pump that is virtually silent) allows for much more control - I can't control the Reflex stove itself but if I replaced my passive radiators with something similar to your fan controlled ones it could be quite similar. I have my water heater half way through my single loop distribution so I did not opt for heating warm water as well. However, I added a heat exchanger to my engine so I can use my radiator system whilst running the engine without igniting my reflex stove - it will infact become a radiator in my head where the Reflex is placed...
You just described my thoughts.
I think Mads mentioned something about a thermostat regulator being available for the reflex, but I don't think I have seen one on their page.
When you first started up that heater I was looking around for the bright blue jump grid forming about Athena... Damn! that thing is loud.
Very thorough rebuild.. shame Athena is not a more iconic design..
I set up a larger scale version of this type of heater to provide hot water for field showers. works great.
Merry Christmas and a Happy and healthy New Year
Ahh the sweet sweet warmth and control of a roaring diesel heater! I'll take a little noise over hot and cold spots and no control any day. Nice work!
Thanks Mads, be safe!
Cool setup Mads! Thanks for another awesome video.
Hot Hot Hot, great install! The sound mitigation should knock down the decibels. Stay safe and Merry Christmas from LA! 🎅🎄
So happy to see that running. I'm quite sure you can quiet it down some with the mods you mentioned, however don't forget right now that the shower isn't in, the bathroom door isn't there and there are no soft furnishings - all of which will help a lot. Just walk into an empty apartment or house and hear how much louder that is when you speak or walk about. Great series, we wish you and Ava (and Jukul) a very Merry Christmas and all the best for the New Year. C-19 is going to shut things down for a while longer for sure plus its variants, get your projects' stuff and dohickies asap. Thank you for another year of entertainment and learnings :-)
Mads, now that Athena is in the water, I'd like to see how you prevent debris from ending up in the marine ecosystem. On my boat, I always used a vacuum cleaner, paper towels, and/or other fairly simple methods to ensure my sawdust and chemicals ended up in the landfill and not in the salt water. You are waay more clever than me, so I'd like to learn how you do it.
Sunday With Mads
Ah, it’s Monday here mate.
Put a rubber mat between the backing plate and the hull, and maybe a big piece of wood on the other side with plenty of silicone to keep vibrations at a minimum.
You could probably also run some copper tubing around the exhaust for a little extra heat.
and you get hot water, no comparison. Merry Christmas Mads.
I have my Refleks connected to 7 radiators, it would be easy to connect it to a heat exchanger for hot water from an electrical switch.
I have also found parts for making it ignite itself via electronics so maybe I will make that my first youtube video next summer.
I'll probably steal the idea with a buffer tank also. :)
Another Great Leap Forward with heating now installed, its going to make the next few month much more comfortable I’m sure.
I think it may be a good idea to add a string or chain to the exhaust bung just in case!
I know I keep commenting the same thing, but thank you for maintaining the content output, it’s one of the few things keeping me sane in this crazy 2020. I’m sure I’m not the only one grateful for your content. Your positive approach to everything is a shining example to us all.
I was thinking about letting the exhaust bung also be part of a "start button" for the system - if the bung is in the exhaust, the system can't be started and if the system is started, the bung can't block the exhaust. I've no idea how it would be done - perhaps with an ignition key from a car?
@@noremorsewoodworking2258 I thought that too. I’m sure there’s some kind of safety feature that will stop the system running if there’s an an exhaust obstruction, but a safety feature would be interesting to develop if it isn’t already a feature of the system.
My worry was about dropping it when installing and removing.
I could be wrong however I was always told to mount carbon monoxide sensors low as it tends to settle. So if it's mounted high with the smoke detector and you're laying in bed you could suffocate before it got up high enough for the sensor to pick it up...
Just read that carbon monoxide is 'slightly' lighter than air and will mix with other gases. So better higher mounting position.
Carbon dioxide is heavier than air and will therefore accumulate lower down. Soap box put back into storage.
Nope, they should be high up. Our (per code) are mounted just below the ceiling. Mark is right, MONoxide and DIOxide are very different things!
I offer my congratulations and an outstanding “Well Done!” on accomplishing another major goal!
You are indeed an inspiration, Mads!
These diesel heater manufacturers could definitely benefit from a UX designer!! ;)
Way too involved for my limited technical skills, Mads. I'll just have to gather a few large stones and build a campfire on the saloon table. Love your channel btw. Cheers ! ⛵🌡🔥
I was thinking this sounds just like my Webasto, (and that is like a spaceship), until you got up close. Much to delight of my neighbours, during winter it used to start up at 7am.
I sold my webasto, could not stand the noise. It worked really well but in the middle of the night, kept waking me up.
Hi, great episode as usual. @ 17.07 - time in Denmark is UTC +1, not +2 ;-)
Sitting here in Madison Wisconsin USA imagining the week earlier all this work was done. Thank you for the video and entertainment and insight.
Thats the loudest heater Ive ever heard. I couldnt live with that daily.Lets hope it can be made quieter
Very good set of videos and a professional installation. You have however convinced me that I would never install such a stove. Complicated, very labour intensive to install, noisy, expensive and high amp draw. Perhaps you could tell us the final price if one had to buy everything and the total amp draw when running full capacity. So many simpler systems in my opinion.
Have a happy Christmas Mads.
I think that Stainless support tube would look much nicer clad in a split and hollowed out wooden pole. Stained and varnished to match the interior, it would blend in much better, plus give a more substantial hand grip... 8P
Carbon Monoxide is heavier than air. Mount the detector closer to the floor. Put the smoke detectors high on the wall.
the boat looks absolutely spiffy
Congrats on having heat available! Let’s cross our fingers, as we rub our hands together in front of the fan assembly, that you can silence this system a little. 🙏😁👍
What's the best way for you to keep warm? Hydronic or Refleks or Ava?
Since you have already chosen hydronic set that thermostat a little on the low side.
That way Ava might want to cuddle a little more when she finally get there.
I do like the idea of having warm water readily available for all its various uses.
Merry Christmas and all the best for a fantastic New Year
Boat Yoga! 😆 what a classic, that has definitely been added to my vocab list - thanks for everything Mads, Merry Christmas to you, Eva, and dog 👍❤️
In case you haven't thought of it. you should do some decibel readings of the current set up, and again after you install any of the sound deadening options. I have an app on my phone to see how loud my wife really is...
Ones again my week finished off with my obsession of sail life
Thanks again
Merry Christmas! Thank you for including us in your adventure. If you were in Chicago I'm sure we would be fast friends. I hope your new year is filled with glorious project completions.