Broken Ensoniq ASR-10 Keybed Removal and Cleaning
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- Опубликовано: 12 ноя 2024
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This keyboard was abused and not working at the time. Facebook Marketplace purchase. This video shows the key cleaning process, not the actual work to get it working. I did that later.
Another good video. Just a note to anyone who may want to go a bit further with servicing the keybed. If it hasn't already been done and if you are capable of doing the work, when the keybed is that far dismantled it is a good time to replace the ribbon between the keybed boards. Always use a soft ribbon cable or soft wires if you want to hard wire it. Never use stiff or single strand cables between the keybeds. Be sure to take photos beforehand so you can make sure you re-solder into the correct holes in the board and double check it before you power up. Deoxidizing the ribbon connectors from the keybed to the main board is also a good practice as that is one of the other places that cause calibration issues but it's not as common as the keybed joiner and the keybed coils. Obviously this applies to all of the Ensoniq five octave Keybeds of this type.
I have an asr 10 1 key has no sound were can I get it repaired
If I were you, I'd remove the keyboard then all springs and keys. The main reason is to get to the PC board under the keys where all it's contacts are. Clean each contact with Q tips and rubbing alcohol. They're most likely is built up dust preventing the bottom silver plate under the dead key from making contact with the keyboard contact. I think this should solve the problem. Also clean the silver plates under all keys the same way with Q tips and alcohol. My ASR 10 was super dusty under there and filled with grime on that PC board. I used more than a half box of Q tips. Good luck. 👍 👍
Thanks for the video. Wouldn't have had the confidence to go about this without it 🤘
Awesome, glad to have helped Ewell.
one of the best videos I've seen in a long time. I'm an asr 10 junky. Going to buy my 3rd one in a couple months and never sell it again. thanks for this video. you're super brave. lol
Thanks man, 🙂👍
I just got my first ASR-10!! Was able to snag it for $700 too with maxed out ram 🔥
Great video! Thanks so much. I had the dreaded "Calibration Failed" message and this fixed it.
Awesome man. This one actually had a calibration pot out of adjustment. There are 2 or 3 on the keybed circuitboards. It took me a while to figure it out and I never did a followup video.
@@HankCoffey How do you get to the actual circuit boards for the keyboard. I know they recommend hard-wiring the two boards together but when I took my ASR apart the boards appeared to be already wired together. Do you have to take the keyboard apart to get the the boards? thanks.
@@GloveBunniesVideos you have to do what I did in this video. Then, the small white clips hold the boards in. They are very easy to break. You have to put something in the clip holes on the back side and pinch the clips to release them.
Man you're fearless tearing into these units!!! Great video Hank
Hey, thanks Roxy. Good parts and hardware organization is key. Also take pictures before removing stuff. I checked final reassembly with photos.
I'm all ears when I watch your videos 👏
Cool, thank you Joe!
Thanks so much for this, man! I have had a lot of trouble with my 16+ and in the past been able to revive it simply by opening the top and re-seating all the connectors. After seeing what might be underneath it, I will follow your lead and clean from the bottom of the keyboard and might even clean the key bed, as it has never been done and I'm the original owner. Oops, spoke too soon. The underside of the EPS16+ does NOT come off like the ASR. Instead of tackling it from this perspective, I will replace the capacitors on the power supply board first to see if that brings new life!
Hey Gary, good luck with the 16+. Yeah, it probably opens up from the top. It's hard to troubleshoot problems without a multimeter. I guess it wouldn't hurt to recap the power supply though.
The "other" chip starting with MC is the processor. Likely one of the 68000 family. Ensoniq used the chip a lot, as did lots of companies in the 90s. Today the part is still in use from NXP (which bought freescale, which came from Motorola) as Dragonball processors.
You are brave! Great video and great work restoring this master piece of an instrument. I just took mine out after so long. I noticed a little noise on one of the keys but can't see myself going thru all the trouble.. Thanks man.
Thanks Samuel. Yeah, I clean any used keyboard I get. They are usually filthy. This one had an issue that kept me from finishing this video properly. It's working great now though.
You're a natural at presentation Hank🌟
Thank you JaanJaan, I hope you've been doing well man. 🙂🍻
Man you are the man. 🎹 The Ensoniq Eps and Ensoniq Eps 16 Plus are easy to open up. 😎
Thanks man. Yeah the ASR and TS-10s are complicated.
Thnk you this video…. Bout to clean mine…. How difficult you think it is to clean where the push bottons are… and do you recommend compressed air for the dust
To get behind the buttons you have to pull the display board out. It's not easy. I use compressed air. Keep from turning the can sideways and spraying the frozen liquid though.
Hi Hank from UK. Great video and I will be renovating the key-bed . . when I can get my poorly ASR10 back to life. I'm pretty sure it power-board issues but I got no display at all. I've got some very simple questions about the power-board, but first can you just clear up one thing. I think from your video that there is one ribbon cable fixing left bare (no cable) between main board and running towards display? As mine was "dead" when I got it, I'm just trying to make sure if everything is where it should be. The connector is labelled "Digital In/Out" . . but like your ASR10 in the video . . mine has got the digital in/out board on rear (maybe this re-routes this ribbon cable). Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated. Cheers
Yeah, the Digital jacks are dummy jacks unless you actually have the digital board installed. This one didn't have it. The most common cause of a dead display, and a dead unit, are the fuses located close to the power supply. I don't remember the exact number.... but they are about 5 on the power board, and there are about 3 more on a separate board to the left of the power. I'd check all of those fuses with a multimeter first.
Hi Hank. Cheers bud . . will do all power-board checks once I have good A/C going into board. Fuses are all good (checked continuity + they r fine) but the actual switch had no continuity and showed signs of scorching at base of its terminal lugs. Just waiting for a new switch to turn up. I'm hoping its just the switch, but the missing ribbon cable socket looked odd and just wanted to be sure nothing had been left off by someone else. Cheers
Hi Hank. No worries. Just trying to be sure that once I've got good power going in, I'm not tripped up by someone leaving a ribbon cable off. All the best.
@@neilday837 😎👍
Hank I thought I should add this as well for you. You might have already covered it but if not it is important.
If people are capable of the work and at their own risk, replacing the capacitors on the power board is a good idea even if they seem OK. Don't use cheap crap and always test them before you install them to make sure they are within spec and allowed tolerance. Most are fake copies or just rubbish on certain sites and you don't really save that much money. I use Nichicon and Panasonic depending on what is needed. Nichicon makes good audio grade capacitors.
Capacitors are a common cause of most electrical problems and noise even if they are working because they move out of spec well before they completely fail. Some just don't fail but do move out of spec causing problems. Audio grade capacitors have a shorter lifespan because of the way they have to be made but must be used if that is the spec or you will get noise and nowhere near the quality of sound and this is crucial in the power board. Even if the keyboard runs the power board capacitors might not be working correctly and they can cause a chain reaction of problems, even minor problems through the rest of the keyboard that you might not even notice. It is good practice to replace the capacitors on the main power board if the gear is old and to keep the Ensoniqs running it is a must but do it correctly. I have a lot of Ensoniqs and will do what ever it takes to keep them running because of the unreplaceable sound they have. Note someone is selling kits for this on Ebay but I do not know the brands he is using so be sure of what you are buying by brand not just because they say they are good. There is a big difference between the term "good quality" and real high grade audio capacitors.
One big cause of power board capacitor problems is that people keep leaving their gear running when not in use without thinking or knowing about the capacitors. The power board capacitors are one of, if not the hardest working parts in a keyboard and any other electrical appliance especially high quality audio gear. Everything relies on them to work correctly within their spec. This happens with mixers and alike as well. They use high quality audio grade capacitors which have a shorter life by nature and people just leave the gear running constantly and blame the manufacturer when their old gear craps out.
🙂👍
What's the first thing to look out for after opening it up if the only problem spotted so far is the keyboard not calibrating? Is there an easy fix to attempt before removing all the keys?
There are 2 calibration adjustment pots underneath the keybed. But usually calibration issues are caused by the connection between the 2 keybed boards in the center.
The calibration pots are real touchy. I wouldn't mess with those without testing other stuff.
I have a pristine TS-10, but the PolyAT is next to useless because apparently the little bushings at the front of the key action have hardened with age? Have you run into this at all? I want to do a teardown like this and pull the bushings to maybe rejuvenate them or replace them, but I'm worried about risking failed calibration of the keybed. Do you know if this is a risk, or if failed calibration means you can't ever use it again--even with an external controller? Thanks for the video, it's super helpful and I can only assume the ASR-10's internals are really similar to mine.
The Poly Aftertouch should be engaged by a ribbon. The bushings have no effect. The failed calibration is usually caused by a failed connection where the 2 keybed boards connect (people beating on the keys), or something like spilled soda eroding through a coil trace in the board. There are 2 calibration pots on the circuit boards that cause this error as well. Don't touch them MFs. Or you will have to manually adjust them, while playing the keyboard, with it disassembled. I don't work on hardware synths anymore, I can't be much more help.
Hey that's a lot more than I ever knew! Did you ever have a problem with stiff AT to where you really REALLY had to press down hard to get it to work? I think I was just terrified of taking it apart in the first place, lest I breathe on it wrong and make it fail calibration haha. Anyway really appreciate the video a lot
@@HankCoffey
@@fallboardmusic I do not pay much attention to aftertouch. I do notice that not all patches will respond to aftertouch.
Hey man, my ASR makes a loud pbuzz when powered up. Any idea what's going on.
If from the chassis it is the power transformer. If it's the audio signal, could be several things.
@HankCoffey I think, its something to do with the power. Because it starts as soon as I power it up. . Thanks. I love those videos, too.
So to remove the springs do you just take the pliers and grab the spring and pull it out? Sorry I need to do some clea omg and I'm nervous lol
Yeah, grab a wall of the spring and pull up and over. Sometimes the black keys have a little different springs. I don't remember on this one. All I know is in the video.
@@HankCoffey appreciate that! I have an SD1 so it could be similar but I'll see as I go. Thank you very much
@@dannymolns3573 SD1 opens from the top panel. The keybed should be similar. It's real easy to break the threaded tabs for the lid off, when removing the keybed. Be careful. I think the floppy/mod wheel panel needs to be removed, or the keybed will smack the tabs when coming out.
Rats, I was hoping you would get down to the boards with the front panel buttons on them. I have a broken ENTER button and it’s kinda hard to get anything done without that one! 😃 Thanks for the video! I haven’t tore one of these down in decades and your video reminded me of why I have been avoiding fixing mine! I kinda wish they had stuck to the simplicity of their earlier keyboards like the VFX-SD popping that guy open is a breeze. 😀
I have a video where I take a whole TS-12 apart, but I never pull the display boards out of any of them. TS-10s, TS-12, This might be my only ASR repair video. I haven't messed with my hardware keyboards in a few years.
Hi Hank, I'm having File OP Error: 040 Insert Disk on my screen and it wouldn't boot the OS. Any idea what the issue is? It was all working fine until I disconnected some ribbon cables then the error shows up. Someone suggested clean it with Deoxit. Let me know if you can! Thanks
I think that error means it is unable to read the disk. Could be dust that fell on the disk reader head. But it is more than likely related to the ribbon cables. Make sure none of your cables have been reversed. Unless there are signs of corrosion, I don't think deoxit is necessary. Simply moving the connector off and plugging back in should be enough to get a good conductor connection. I would make sure my ribbon cables aren't reversed anywhere. If the cables were forcefully removed without using a puller, there's a chance the ends are damaged. But probably not.
Also, of course make sure the Floppy's power cable was plugged back in.
What if only one key of the keyboard has not calibrated? How can someone make sure that key calibrates with the rest of the keys?
There is no easy answer. It's probably a break in a circuitboard trace under the key. Or multiple other things.
@@HankCoffeyThank you. Lucky thats on my secondary "spare" machine
educational video, really like it!
Thank you Trigo!
What other issues do you have? I have one that won’t light up or boot 😑
I moved one of the calibration pots by accident on the key bed, and it wouldn't calibrate. I had to re-adjust it after the video.
Your problem is probably blown fuses. Test them with a multimeter.
ruclips.net/video/MPMp_OVRDv4/видео.html ;)
@@HankCoffey yeah nah it’s not the fuses
@@showbread9366 I'd check the power supply next. See if you are getting power to the mainboard at the wire harness. You'll have to track it down with a multimeter.
@@HankCoffey it was the board - had it repaired. Expensive AF to have serviced 😅
I need help fixing my keyboard coils 😭
You anywhere near Texas? 🙏😭😭😭
I'm in Florida man. Are you sure it's the coils?
@@HankCoffey lol wow! I just came back from florida LOL
I was getting keyboard Error.. then I wasn’t getting it to boot at all… I then took it to a synth shop in Austin and they had it for OVER a YEAR!!
Told me it’s too expensive to fix lol.. I just looked up the parts and new coils are only 90$ and other parts aren’t that expensive compared to the sampler itself smh..
I just don’t feel confident enough to dig around it’s guts to fix it so I’m looking for anyone that may be able to help..
@@HankCoffey I think I just found you on FB I sent a friend request in hopes you may be able to help!
It might not be the keybed coils. I would have to do a series of tests on it... But, I am not in Texas. It should still boot with Calibration Error... Several things can make Ensoniqs act up... Bad scsi card... bad ram... bad fuses.... There are adjustment pots on the keybed circuit boards.... I just can't help you long distance it would take up too much of my time explaining everything... It's something I'd have to have my hands on in person. When did it stop working? Or did you buy it not working?
man i wish i had that asr 10
Think this one is good, look at this one ruclips.net/video/MPMp_OVRDv4/видео.html 😁
I get a lot of static when i press a key.
Could be a lot of stuff man. For me to troubleshoot it, It would require asking you multiple questions, and probably seeing the keyboard in person. Best of luck with it though.
L O V E I T!!🤩 ❤️
Hilda!!! Thank you ❤️