Rebuilt Spitfire Specification Engine - First Start | Herald 13/60 Restoration | Part 29
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- Here we're getting the Herald's engine ready to start for the first time after the rebuild, of course it doesn't quite go all that smoothly...
Music Credits:
Track: Happy Dance, Artist: Mr Smith, Source: freemusicarchi..., Licence: CCBY
Track: Strutting, Artist: Mr Smith, Source: freemusicarchi..., Licence: CCBY
Track: Tango, Artist: Mr Smith, Source: freemusicarchi..., Licence: CCBY
Free sound effects (sad trumpet) from www.fesliyanst...
Good job. Love the distributor priming tool
Thanks Henry, I do like it when I can make something useful from what I’ve got lying around!
The engine sounds fantastic, well done that man, good luck with some nice trips this year, cheers Bob
Cheers Bob, still getting the last few bits done, but hopefully it’ll be out soon!
Job well done,I guessed it was the earth lead because I've done it before on my 1200,I do like the flashing HT lead havnt seen one of those in years.
Thanks Paul, I specifically remember remembering the earth needed attaching when I put the engine together, then forgot it when I managed to get it in the car!
Interesting engine build… won’t you need to modify the Herald distributor weights etc. to suit the Spitfire engine with the twin carbs and hotter cam etc ? There’s a big jump in power from 60 to 75 HP….
Thanks John, and yes possibly. I'm actually most of the way through building a distributor test machine in part so this is something I can experiment with if it turns out to be needed. Though ideally I'd like to find a classic friendly rolling road and do some real measurements.
I have exactly the same issue with my 68 Herald 13/60, the distributor looks setup for the Spitfire. I watched the video but the important part for me was when you rectified it so the rotor arm was facing the correct way for the Herald, but you fast forwarded the video and your back was covering what you were doing so i have no idea what you did to rectify the positioning of the rotor.... can you explain to me what you did please? im guessing you did something with the dog drive, but what did you do and how did you reposition it?
Thanks in advance
Ah, yeah, I think I’d spoken about how to fit the drive dog in a previous video so wasn’t wanting to repeat myself. Forgetting of course people might watch one in isolation!
The distributor drive dog has an asymmetric slot in the top which engages with the bottom of the distributor. If you want to alter the position of it then rotate the engine till it is at TDC on the compression stroke of number 1 cylinder. Remove the dizzy pedestal. Pull out the drive gear. Fit the drive gear to the base of the dizzy and note the orientation you need to get the rotor arm in the desired position. Put the drive dog back in place in that orientation. Push down on the drive dog and rotate the engine till the drive dog drops down and engages with the oil pump. Put the dizzy back and rotate the engine back to no 1 firing TDC. Check where the rotor arm points. If it’s wrong, try again but rotate the drive dog a few degrees from the ideal final position when you fit it back to the engine. Repeat till you get it right! Bit of a fiddle this job, but that’s the only way. Note the thickness of the gasket(s) under the dizzy pedestal is important, so you need to put back the same thickness of gasket(s) as you remove, or go through the process for setting the drive gear end float too.
@@redfoxclassics Brilliant, thanks for the fast reply, perfect explanation, i will try that out, it will teach me to watch more videos then i might have seen your video on fitting the dog drive.
Many thanks, and keep up the informative videos,
👍
No worries, happy to help :) It’s more a lesson for me to be a bit clearer about what I’m doing I think rather than assuming people are watching everything I’ve made!