Hello, I'm your fan. It's really nice to meet you.😀 I'm subscribing to your channel and watching videos. Thank you for the good videos. I watched and referred to your videos a lot when I made the Fritz and Franz jig. In fact, I've only added a few things to your production jig. I'm looking forward to your jig to make in the future, as you are collecting materials for the upgrade. Thank you for leaving comments and watching. Have a good day.😊
@@MuyoungWorkshop Subscribed as well. You have a lot of good ideas. I like it when people take an idea to the next level. Your tapered leg attachment was much better than the one I made. Steve
That proximity of the metal profiles to the saw blade is unnerving me. I guess they are precisely placed just a hair away from the blade but dam would I be worried to accidently hit the blade after a sudden jump out of nowhere. Nice looking jig though. I wanna have it.
Great work. I first heard of the Fritz and Franz jig from the Extreme Woodworker channel -- but I quite enjoyed your version of it. The locking support seems excellent!
오!. 여태껏 제가 유튜브에서 본 프릿츠-프란츠 지그중 최고입니다. 런너를 왜 얇게 만드시지?? 이랬는데, 그 아래에 이중으로 고정홀더까지... 정말 대단하시네요. 런너 재질이 꼭 베이클라이트 같이 생겼는데 꽤 튼튼한가 봅니다. 저는 보통 3D프린터로 만드는데, 나중에 꼭 무영공방님이 하신 것 같이 만들어 봐야겠습니다. 아래 위 레일에 스탑달아서 커팅하고 테이퍼링할 때 쓰시는건 남겨두셨네요 :) 그나저나 레일이 두 개인건 정말 부럽네요. 전 레일이 하나라서 런너가 짧으면 흔들려서 런너를 앞뒤로 길게 빼야만 했거든요.
안녕하세요^^ 레일이 두개라서 다용도로 활용할 수 있어 이점이 많은것 같습니다. ㅎㅎ 말씀하신대로 런너로 사용한것은 베이클라이트에요. 내마모성이 좋아서 사용했어요. 지그 트랙에 사용할 스토퍼하고 테이퍼링 지그는 빠른시일에 제작해서 영상 올리려 하고 있습니다. 매번 댓글 다실 때마다 목공에대한 지식과 경험이 상당하신거 같아요. 그리고 3D프린터까지 운용하신다니.. 정말 부럽네요 :) 시청해주셔서 감사합니다!😀
Not sure what the front part is for- there is already a front fence. If you want to cut acute angles, a jig with an adjustable side support is more common- with good reason. Clamping the ends of thin strips between parallel jaws, with a single clamp spaced far away from the part, is asking for trouble. Plus, clamp it tight, and it will mark the wood.
The reason why there is a front part is necessary when using a jig installed in the middle of the slide. This is in case you use the machine's fence and jig separately. Because there are tasks that use both. I haven't had any discomfort while doing the thin rip cut yet. I am also using a thin rip cut jig, but personally, the jig in the video was more precise and convenient. Also, instead of adjusting the spacing with a fence, you can adjust the spacing with a magnetic switch and act as a stopper. When cutting wood thinly in the jig in the video, you must use a tree that has enough room to not bend. The same goes for thinning wood on a table saw. This is because it is dangerous to use wood to the remaining thin parts. I use a table saw and a sliding table saw in my workroom, but I personally prefer to work on a sliding table saw, so I made this jig. Your opinion is valid and I respect it. Good point. My communication may not have been properly because I used a translator. Please understand. Thank you for watching my video with interest. Have a nice day.😀👍
The auto-translate of the closed captions says that you used adhesive backed sandpaper for the grip surfaces / inside faces, is that correct, and has that held up for you?
Hello. Nice to meet you. The material used in the slider and the lock tab is Bakelite. I used it because it is stronger than wood and has better heat resistance and wear resistance. Thank you for watching my video. Have a good day.😀
![[Woodworking] Sliding Table Saw Jig / Freely cut from various angles](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/J2q64N8Dgfg/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Woodworking] Sliding Table Saw Jig / Freely cut from various angles](/img/tr.png)
Nicely done! The Fritz and Franz jig is the most used jig in my shop. I have just started gathering materials for an upgrade to mine.
Hello, I'm your fan. It's really nice to meet you.😀
I'm subscribing to your channel and watching videos. Thank you for the good videos.
I watched and referred to your videos a lot when I made the Fritz and Franz jig. In fact, I've only added a few things to your production jig.
I'm looking forward to your jig to make in the future, as you are collecting materials for the upgrade.
Thank you for leaving comments and watching. Have a good day.😊
@@MuyoungWorkshop Subscribed as well. You have a lot of good ideas. I like it when people take an idea to the next level. Your tapered leg attachment was much better than the one I made. Steve
Laugh. Steve you beat me too it. Great video! I would be doing this too if my saw was not stuck on a boat off the coast of Vancouver.
One of the best versions I have seen, love the big knob and jig lock feature. Super job.
Excellent.
Gloves while using a table saw... N E V E R !
That proximity of the metal profiles to the saw blade is unnerving me. I guess they are precisely placed just a hair away from the blade but dam would I be worried to accidently hit the blade after a sudden jump out of nowhere. Nice looking jig though. I wanna have it.
Great work. I first heard of the Fritz and Franz jig from the Extreme Woodworker channel -- but I quite enjoyed your version of it. The locking support seems excellent!
Hello.
Thank you for liking my version of Fritz and Franzig.
Thanks for watching. Have a good day.😀
멋집니다!!!
감사합니다!! 😀
Well, I guess I need to get a sliding table saw now.
오!. 여태껏 제가 유튜브에서 본 프릿츠-프란츠 지그중 최고입니다.
런너를 왜 얇게 만드시지?? 이랬는데, 그 아래에 이중으로 고정홀더까지... 정말 대단하시네요.
런너 재질이 꼭 베이클라이트 같이 생겼는데 꽤 튼튼한가 봅니다.
저는 보통 3D프린터로 만드는데, 나중에 꼭 무영공방님이 하신 것 같이 만들어 봐야겠습니다.
아래 위 레일에 스탑달아서 커팅하고 테이퍼링할 때 쓰시는건 남겨두셨네요 :)
그나저나 레일이 두 개인건 정말 부럽네요.
전 레일이 하나라서 런너가 짧으면 흔들려서 런너를 앞뒤로 길게 빼야만 했거든요.
안녕하세요^^
레일이 두개라서 다용도로 활용할 수 있어 이점이 많은것 같습니다. ㅎㅎ
말씀하신대로 런너로 사용한것은 베이클라이트에요. 내마모성이 좋아서 사용했어요.
지그 트랙에 사용할 스토퍼하고 테이퍼링 지그는 빠른시일에 제작해서 영상 올리려 하고 있습니다.
매번 댓글 다실 때마다 목공에대한 지식과 경험이 상당하신거 같아요.
그리고 3D프린터까지 운용하신다니.. 정말 부럽네요 :)
시청해주셔서 감사합니다!😀
Not sure what the front part is for- there is already a front fence. If you want to cut acute angles, a jig with an adjustable side support is more common- with good reason. Clamping the ends of thin strips between parallel jaws, with a single clamp spaced far away from the part, is asking for trouble. Plus, clamp it tight, and it will mark the wood.
The reason why there is a front part is necessary when using a jig installed in the middle of the slide.
This is in case you use the machine's fence and jig separately. Because there are tasks that use both.
I haven't had any discomfort while doing the thin rip cut yet. I am also using a thin rip cut jig, but personally, the jig in the video was more precise and convenient. Also, instead of adjusting the spacing with a fence, you can adjust the spacing with a magnetic switch and act as a stopper.
When cutting wood thinly in the jig in the video, you must use a tree that has enough room to not bend. The same goes for thinning wood on a table saw.
This is because it is dangerous to use wood to the remaining thin parts.
I use a table saw and a sliding table saw in my workroom, but I personally prefer to work on a sliding table saw, so I made this jig.
Your opinion is valid and I respect it. Good point.
My communication may not have been properly because I used a translator. Please understand.
Thank you for watching my video with interest. Have a nice day.😀👍
The auto-translate of the closed captions says that you used adhesive backed sandpaper for the grip surfaces / inside faces, is that correct, and has that held up for you?
What is that plastic material you used for the sliders and locking tabs?
Hello. Nice to meet you.
The material used in the slider and the lock tab is Bakelite.
I used it because it is stronger than wood and has better heat resistance and wear resistance.
Thank you for watching my video. Have a good day.😀
Hi. Did you make the big wood knob to tighten down like the other three knobs?
I see what you did at 8:34. Thanks