I'd been feeling really good about repairs, and figured I'd give a usb-c port replacement a try after doing x3 m92t36c's, switch/3ds game ports and ps3 controller usbs no problem, but damn was it a ballache! I Every time I managed to either make the plastic swell over the pins at the back, or managed to melt the inner pin stack... Hopefully 4th time lucky after watching your vids when my next batch come haha! Great video, really inspiring.
Another great job Phil. Nice troubleshooting! I've seen numerous video's on Switch repairs and it seems to me everyone does the same trick of using another battery in a second Switch. Then doing the fumbling around thing while trying to hold everything in place. I've never worked on one. But if I did often, I'd think it would be beneficial to fabricate a jumper cable.
Thank you :) yeah thats probably a good idea, I do have a battery removed from the chassis for testing but I keep forgetting to charge it lol. I'm planning on making a bench supply cable soon for it :)
When you have the PCB out like that and have it plugged on and your USB meter says zero amps draw does the processor still feel like its getting really hot? I replaced M92 and P13 and still get flickers of some amp draw which then levels out to nothing in a few seconds and the processor starts to get warm to the touch. Also MAX77620AEWJ IC chip on back of board and MAX77812EWB IC chip on front of the board have shorted caps around them. Never seen anyone replace these. Any advice on that? Also thank you for for extremely helpful tips on one of your videos about first tacking these tiny chips roughly in place and then flowing flux and resoldering so they pull into place by themselves. That was an absolute gem of a a tip.
This is looking very similar to one I have right now. Did the charging port and now I'm waiting on chips in the mail. I have an unrelated question for you though. When you check something in continuity mode and it only beeps for a second or two and then stops beeping what does that mean? I assume capacitors are getting charged by the meter and somehow stopping the circuit you're testing from reading as a short. It's on a Xbox one S. When I check where the power comes into the board from the psu I'll get a dead short reading but only for a second or two then it stops beeping. Then if I switch the leads around it'll beep for another second or two. I'm using a fluke multimeter so I doubt it's due to a crappy meter
TheCod3r I never realized I could be as calm and still as I can until doing a trace repair on 14 pins of a HDMI port lol. First time doing an HDMI port and it was a trace repair job. Got er done though. Without a scope even. I used a jewelers loop to check and redo my work only 392 times!
Doubtful mate, a lot of the time it draws 0.05amps for a bad M92, but M92 can be bad without being short if that makes sense. Give that a try before anything else :)
@@TheCod3r Imagine, dropping it off, thinking it was just charging problem, and seeing your video like, damn.... Good thing the video was proof. Lol, I love your channel. I learned so much from you
First
Damit
It's refreshing to see someone who actually knows what they're doing.
I love how descriptive you are. Your methods are excellent, thank you for making these videos.
First class technician. Keep em coming
Those 10K subscribers are coming in fast! Congrats! :)
Thanks very much, yeah I should be there in the next day I can't wait 😀
Love the content you are pushing out mate keep up the great work 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👊🏻
Cheers mate 😁
I've learnt a lot in such a short time watching your videos mate! Time for me to revisit my RAM upgrade project for OG XBox.
As usual, very didactic. Thanks you very munch but now I want to buy an switch to try it by myself :)
I am here because of Steve from Tronicsfix.
I'd been feeling really good about repairs, and figured I'd give a usb-c port replacement a try after doing x3 m92t36c's, switch/3ds game ports and ps3 controller usbs no problem, but damn was it a ballache! I Every time I managed to either make the plastic swell over the pins at the back, or managed to melt the inner pin stack... Hopefully 4th time lucky after watching your vids when my next batch come haha! Great video, really inspiring.
Your flux delivery beats every Louis Rossman's effort!
Haha cheers mate 🤣
Another great job Phil. Nice troubleshooting! I've seen numerous video's on Switch repairs and it seems to me everyone does the same trick of using another battery in a second Switch. Then doing the fumbling around thing while trying to hold everything in place. I've never worked on one. But if I did often, I'd think it would be beneficial to fabricate a jumper cable.
Thank you :) yeah thats probably a good idea, I do have a battery removed from the chassis for testing but I keep forgetting to charge it lol. I'm planning on making a bench supply cable soon for it :)
AS always love your vids!!
When you have the PCB out like that and have it plugged on and your USB meter says zero amps draw does the processor still feel like its getting really hot? I replaced M92 and P13 and still get flickers of some amp draw which then levels out to nothing in a few seconds and the processor starts to get warm to the touch. Also MAX77620AEWJ IC chip on back of board and
MAX77812EWB IC chip on front of the board have shorted caps around them. Never seen anyone replace these. Any advice on that? Also thank you for for extremely helpful tips on one of your videos about first tacking these tiny chips roughly in place and then flowing flux and resoldering so they pull into place by themselves. That was an absolute gem of a a tip.
This is looking very similar to one I have right now. Did the charging port and now I'm waiting on chips in the mail.
I have an unrelated question for you though. When you check something in continuity mode and it only beeps for a second or two and then stops beeping what does that mean? I assume capacitors are getting charged by the meter and somehow stopping the circuit you're testing from reading as a short.
It's on a Xbox one S. When I check where the power comes into the board from the psu I'll get a dead short reading but only for a second or two then it stops beeping. Then if I switch the leads around it'll beep for another second or two. I'm using a fluke multimeter so I doubt it's due to a crappy meter
What kind of flux do you use/prefer if you don’t mind my asking?
I could never do what you do. When I'm focused my hands start to shake: I know, it's strange.
That may be a confidence issue, I used to shake a lot but I learned if I lean my palm on the table I can keep them a bit steadier
TheCod3r I never realized I could be as calm and still as I can until doing a trace repair on 14 pins of a HDMI port lol. First time doing an HDMI port and it was a trace repair job. Got er done though. Without a scope even. I used a jewelers loop to check and redo my work only 392 times!
Hey, i have a switch here that shows a 0.005 charge but none of the chips are bad but the water damage indicator is pink, could it be a bad cpu?
Doubtful mate, a lot of the time it draws 0.05amps for a bad M92, but M92 can be bad without being short if that makes sense. Give that a try before anything else :)
@@TheCod3r thank you sir, i got it to go to a 0.41 but now i can't get it to go passed that, I'm extremely stumped by this one
Damn, from a broken charging port to a lot of areas being repaired.
Yeah this one got pretty expensive, I think I charged about £85 for this repair but the company I received it from would've added at least £40 on top
@@TheCod3r Imagine, dropping it off, thinking it was just charging problem, and seeing your video like, damn.... Good thing the video was proof. Lol, I love your channel. I learned so much from you
I went to go sub to him but I already am so i told my son too.
Thank you I'm sure he'll appreciate thay, and I do too 😁 thanks for helping:)
Your comment made me subscribe lol
1000 subscribers a day, keeps the BSOD away
They do indeed 😁 not quite 1k but darn close at around 800 lol