I have my MF01S set to step down at 95 degrees Celsius, because I often need 20-40 second turbo runs. Mine is in 6500k, but the LED’s don’t actually put out the claimed tint. They put out 5,145k. I have tested mine on turbo with a kelvin meter. I love the neutral tint more than a cooler tint though, so I have no complaints. I get an output of 17,235 lumens at turn on, and 15,400 ANSI. Thanks for the awesome video, man! I really dig your videos! 😎
Good to know! My sample is 4000K, so it puts out around 13.500 lm, which is amazing for such a lovely tint it produces. I raised my thermal settings to 80 degrees celcius in both lights after your comment and they do not exceed 65*C in practice, so I can still hold them with gloves. Does your MF01S step down too quickly without achieving the set temperature too? I know that the setting is for internal temperature, but still. Thanks for the feedback and useful comment :)
@@FlashlightEnthusiast I agree, I love that tint, personally. Whenever I first got into flashlights, I hated the neutral tints, but over time I really begin to enjoy it! The reason being that they render color much better than cooler tints such as 5500k, or 6500k. And yes, I did find my MF01S temperature sensor to fail almost every time I get my flashlight hot. No matter how high I said the internal temperature, it always begins to dip down much sooner than it should. I believe Astrolux will probably fix this with the MFO2S, but we will see what happens! Oh, no problem bud. I appreciate the time you took to reply to my comment. :) Take care!
@@markbeck3115 Sony Murata 25A. You could also get really good performance out of Sony Murata VTC4 30A. They perform even better, but run-times are of course shorter.
I love your videos. I wish you used manual cameras setting on the beam shots in the forest. The thing is, when the lights start stepping down the camera compensates. I really can’t tell the difference between 10,000 lumens and 2.000 at the end. Good work though, getting rid of auto exposure is my only ask.
You prolly dont care but does anyone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account? I was dumb forgot the password. I appreciate any help you can offer me
@@FlashlightEnthusiast my noctigon meteor has very very little throw. Do u have the meteor too? How is the throw on the d18 compared to the meteor? Do u have the narrow opticals or the floody opticals? He only offers floody now :(
I'm wondering if the astral lux is much brighter and more intense because it runs the batteries 2 series 2 parallel? Which adds a lot more and S to the driver and considering it's FET?
Another good question, thank you. I lean towards D18, because it has pronounced hotspot, yet lots of spill at the sides which gives you the feeling of seeing everything. MF01S however, features optics that give you just one huge spot, without any spill. It creates some sort of tunnel vision, without idea what is at your sides. It has some benefits, yet for more universal throw/flood combo I would go for D18. I hope Hank comes with an upgrade soon
Thanks for the review. Blf sofirn sp36 with high cri samsung leds or emisar d18? Help me decide, which one has better build and ultimately, if you had to choose one, which one?
If you are willing to spend more I would go for D18 - more power, capable of better stabilization, slightly higher CRI, more thermal mass and overall better build quality with Emisar. On the other hand you have much shorter Turbo runtime due to the heat and no USB C charging, like in case of SP36.
@@FlashlightEnthusiast thanks so much, definitely clears things up. I don't value turbo that much anyway, rather the max amount of lumens sustained over a 1 hour period or longer.
Wyleczyłem się z kupowania latarek o wielkości puszki coli i 15k+ lumenów, po zakupie Acebeam x80. Sprzęt dobry do smażenia na nim jajek po 3 minutach świecenia ;)
![Crazy Hotrod Flashlight! - Emisar DT8 [In-Depth Review]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zSHO2Nfiyso/mqdefault.jpg)
I have my MF01S set to step down at 95 degrees Celsius, because I often need 20-40 second turbo runs. Mine is in 6500k, but the LED’s don’t actually put out the claimed tint. They put out 5,145k. I have tested mine on turbo with a kelvin meter. I love the neutral tint more than a cooler tint though, so I have no complaints. I get an output of 17,235 lumens at turn on, and 15,400 ANSI.
Thanks for the awesome video, man! I really dig your videos! 😎
Good to know! My sample is 4000K, so it puts out around 13.500 lm, which is amazing for such a lovely tint it produces. I raised my thermal settings to 80 degrees celcius in both lights after your comment and they do not exceed 65*C in practice, so I can still hold them with gloves. Does your MF01S step down too quickly without achieving the set temperature too? I know that the setting is for internal temperature, but still. Thanks for the feedback and useful comment :)
@@FlashlightEnthusiast I agree, I love that tint, personally. Whenever I first got into flashlights, I hated the neutral tints, but over time I really begin to enjoy it! The reason being that they render color much better than cooler tints such as 5500k, or 6500k. And yes, I did find my MF01S temperature sensor to fail almost every time I get my flashlight hot. No matter how high I said the internal temperature, it always begins to dip down much sooner than it should. I believe Astrolux will probably fix this with the MFO2S, but we will see what happens! Oh, no problem bud. I appreciate the time you took to reply to my comment. :) Take care!
What batteries are u using to get that kind of lumens?
@@markbeck3115 Sony Murata 25A. You could also get really good performance out of Sony Murata VTC4 30A. They perform even better, but run-times are of course shorter.
@@JesusIsAboveAllOtherNames I thought about getting the LG HG2
I love your videos. I wish you used manual cameras setting on the beam shots in the forest. The thing is, when the lights start stepping down the camera compensates. I really can’t tell the difference between 10,000 lumens and 2.000 at the end. Good work though, getting rid of auto exposure is my only ask.
Thank you, I will try to work on this also
@@FlashlightEnthusiast Thanks for not taking offense, I like your material.
No offence, constructive criticism is always appreciated
You prolly dont care but does anyone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb forgot the password. I appreciate any help you can offer me
@Avi Santana Instablaster :)
Does your emisar have the floody optics or the narrow optics?
These are standard narrow optics
I'm having a rly hard time choosing between the two. Now that uv had them for so long which do u use more?
D18 wins for me with much smaller size
@@FlashlightEnthusiast my noctigon meteor has very very little throw. Do u have the meteor too? How is the throw on the d18 compared to the meteor? Do u have the narrow opticals or the floody opticals? He only offers floody now :(
I'm wondering if the astral lux is much brighter and more intense because it runs the batteries 2 series 2 parallel? Which adds a lot more and S to the driver and considering it's FET?
Yeah, it might be the case. It is much brighter, not only due to optics design
A gdzie wersja polska na grupę?
So which one do you prefer with a mix of throw and flood? :)
Another good question, thank you. I lean towards D18, because it has pronounced hotspot, yet lots of spill at the sides which gives you the feeling of seeing everything. MF01S however, features optics that give you just one huge spot, without any spill. It creates some sort of tunnel vision, without idea what is at your sides. It has some benefits, yet for more universal throw/flood combo I would go for D18. I hope Hank comes with an upgrade soon
@@FlashlightEnthusiast many thanks 😊
Imalent mr 90 😉
You should check out the d18 with the osram emiters. Absolute beast.
I can only imagine, hope to test it one day
Thanks for the review. Blf sofirn sp36 with high cri samsung leds or emisar d18? Help me decide, which one has better build and ultimately, if you had to choose one, which one?
If you are willing to spend more I would go for D18 - more power, capable of better stabilization, slightly higher CRI, more thermal mass and overall better build quality with Emisar. On the other hand you have much shorter Turbo runtime due to the heat and no USB C charging, like in case of SP36.
@@FlashlightEnthusiast thanks so much, definitely clears things up. I don't value turbo that much anyway, rather the max amount of lumens sustained over a 1 hour period or longer.
D18 is capable of sustaining around 2000 lm, while SP36 more like 700-800 lm. Thermal mass of the head plays important role here.
@@FlashlightEnthusiast is Sofirn Q8 Pro better than them?
Any idea what the max beam distance on the D18 is?
I measured 466m beam distance in my sample, which is 4000K. However, 5000K and 6500K versions should have around 500m due to higher output.
@@FlashlightEnthusiast Great! Thank you so much
Very good...like+new friend...Greetings!
So, who wins?
And what do you consider winning?
Wyleczyłem się z kupowania latarek o wielkości puszki coli i 15k+ lumenów, po zakupie Acebeam x80. Sprzęt dobry do smażenia na nim jajek po 3 minutach świecenia ;)
I removed the ring and it still won't use flat top
That's intriguing, what seems to be the problem?
Man, watching this i think you might actually like flashlights as much as I do. Lol
Yeah, you might actually be right 😁
Brakuje MT03 do porównania... a jest jeszcze za 339zł w promce w BG.
Jak już dorwałem TN36, to raczej kolejnej latarki w podobnym formacie na 3x XHP70.2 nie będę kupował, ale zobaczymy 8-)
@@FlashlightEnthusiast wspomniałem o MT03 bo jest zbliżona rozmiarem do MF01S.
DUDE THIS SUCKS, WE CAN'T SEE THE BEAM SPREAD WITH YOUR VERTICAL OBSESSION.
IS YOUR MONITOR STANDING VERTICAL TOO?
Thanks for boosting the algorithm bro! Check out my newer productions, might interest you more