I know exactly what you mean by not being able to see when sleeping when power goes out. The only thing that I do have is that as seen on TV portable light that I have directly within 5 to 10 feet from where I sleep because power has gone out that many times to make that a requirement........only thing that I wish this portable light is some sort of battery life indicator on it so I can see how full or empty it is.
Why not just have all the emergency lights on a separate breaker? If it’s too much current then use either a higher rated breaker, a double pole breaker, or a 2-in-1 breaker (the ones that have 2 breakers but uses 1 slot) and maybe have it so when the FACP is in alarm, all the emergency lights turn on :)
My exact thoughts lol I'm very jealous of his setup for everything he has from the secured doors with the fob scan way to get into all the doors and all of his generators. I honestly can't think of any better way than this for a house!!!!
Random question that occurred to me... What does Canada's fire codes say about Wago (and Wago-style) connectors? I saw you using wire nuts, which is what was already in situ so that makes sense. I've always used wire nuts up until very recently, but I gotta admit Wagos are pretty darn convenient! 2:34 - I think she's laughing at "..which is Fred..." I think you should now slap a Dymo-label name tag on the emergency light now known as Fred the Emergency Light. 😆 He can be part of the supporting cast in your videos. 9:45 - Not to sound critical, but I'm genuinely concerned about the clearance between the wood and the duct that you're fishing the wire through. The duct will vibrate and possibly wear through the insulation at some point from rubbing. I know you didn't really have much choice, but I'd rather you not resort to "real-world testing" on your fire alarm! ⚡🔥 It'd be useful to know what circuit you tapped into, just in case... 9:56 - Nic, it's 2024, it's safe to come out of the closet. 🤣 J/K, I use that joke all the time at work. "Connor, stop filling the mop bucket and come out of the closet already!" 12:34 & 12:37 - Gesundheit! 17:51 - I can't really criticize you for that, I've done it myself, in my basement. I was completely removing a screw-base lampholder (a metal one!) from a j-box and tying in wire from a new lampholder I installed in the one unlit corner of the basement (also metal, a leftover from when the house was built in '75). I was your age, too, when I did it (I had to have been 19 or 20), and using lineman's pliers just like you were. If you're REALLY careful, it can be done - although, of course, I recommend against it. I was in a hurry, and took a silly risk (not knowing the basement lights were on their own dedicated breaker, and not wanting to keep flipping things off in the house trying to find it because my tech-school-trained father never labeled the circuits, we didn't even have the cover installed until I found it in 1999!), and lucky for both of us, no incident occurred. Well, I finally did it - I installed my very own emergency light, in my garage/man cave/"studio" over the entryway, and a remote head over the entryway on the exterior wall. I didn't want one of those Generic Plastic Models with odd-shaped NiCd battery packs, I bought a no-name metal one that runs off a 6v SLA because those batteries are easily-replaceable, easy to find, and I can always add another battery in parallel, or buy a higher-capacity battery, if I ever want more runtime. With two indoor LED heads and one external LED remote head, battery fully charged, I shut off the breaker feeding it and let it run from about 10:50 PM until 2:10 AM with no noticeable dip in brightness. I had to leave for work, otherwise I would have let it run until it failed just because I was curious how long it would actually run for on one 6Ah battery. It's certainly more than enough for my needs in what is roughly a 12' X 12' (3.6m X 3.6m) space; and the remote head, while not as bright as the indoor spots, puts out enough light for me to safely walk to/from the car. In retrospect, I should have bought the combination Exit/Emergency Light from the same manufacturer, but at the time I ordered it, I was planning on restoring a 1990s Exit sign salvaged from a local strip mall. I dumpster-dove to get it, I found some pieces of three different models and chucked that stuff into a box to sort through later. Long story short, I have a bunch of parts that essentially won't work together, and so no way to Frankenstein one working "90s vintage" Exit sign out of the mess - unless I want to use one without a red diffuser and cover over the power supply/battery compartment. 🤦♂ (If anyone happens to have the diffuser and top cover for a Hubbell/Dual Lite PDPRW-19 - according to the sticker inside, I can't find any other reference to its existence or what its actual "series" name is - please, for the love of whatever you find sacred, let me know!) The sticker says Hubbell Electrical, it's a plastic one with a downward-hinged cover, incandescent with a separate removable compartment at the top that holds the transformer, battery, and charging circuitry. I've spent a few hours trying to find any reference online about it, and haven't gotten anywhere. Might have to hit FleaBay, and I haven't gotten anything from there since... 2003? I'm breaking tradition slightly... The same breaker feeding the emergency light and mounted-but-not-yet-connected Exit light is also going to feed one receptacle, for my WiFi Range Extender. It'll (eventually) be on a high shelf that might also hold a knickknack or ten, so that one receptacle isn't going to be doing anything else. Should be OK, right? 😜
You can use whatever type of connecters as long as they are CSA listed. I just choose not to as I've had issues with them in the past I will just use them if it's very low current. Something like this would've been fine to use on.
QUESTION: I bought an exit sign emergency light combo. Its been running for a while and the transformer is very warm, not too hot to touch, but still hot. Is this bad? Or is a warm transformer normal?
I was just commenting on your last emergency light install video asking if you were gonna install them in bathrooms, but I don't think you saw it, and I don't know if you will see this one either considering how late i'm commenting this
I believe I talked about the bathrooms in my video showing the whole house power outage and explained how enough light comes in from outside to be able to see
oh i didnt know one thing u can do is have 50 or 100 car batteries as the eletric version of it but expenisve indeed it will be bc idk but in sweden it cost around 100 or 51 idk but that idk really know the price of it
Like I always say check out my video explaining why. The house would require a very large generator because of the electric heating load. As we don't have propane or natural gas it would have to be diesel which is very expensive you would be over $25,000 for an install like that.
Ngl, i can't hear the difference in your voice. EDIT: Here's how you check to see what is on what breaker: Everything in the home, atleast in the United States, is 120VAC, and DC overpowers AC. So you can just push DC current through the circuit and it'll pop the breaker that it's on. However, I DO NOT ADVISE YOU DO THIS, SHORT-CIRCUITING A HIGH-VOLTAGE SOURCE CAN CAUSE SPARKS AND/OR CINDERS WHICH CAN CAUSE A FIRE.
Hi Nic im from Puerto Rico and i love watching your videos, im a enthusiastic about fire alarms and emergency lighting
2:35 "Fred" 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
She’s laughing at you nic, you are too high off the emergency lights
I goofed up my words when I was explaining that unit. I said Fred instead of fed.
@@nics-systems-electric well your sick it happens lol, but now that emergency light shall always be called Fred
@@nics-systems-electric Goofed or not, great video as per usual.
😅😅😅😅😅😅@@nics-systems-electric
Wow! You did an amazing job filming this.
I know exactly what you mean by not being able to see when sleeping when power goes out. The only thing that I do have is that as seen on TV portable light that I have directly within 5 to 10 feet from where I sleep because power has gone out that many times to make that a requirement........only thing that I wish this portable light is some sort of battery life indicator on it so I can see how full or empty it is.
Fred is a emergency light 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 2:38
Why not just have all the emergency lights on a separate breaker? If it’s too much current then use either a higher rated breaker, a double pole breaker, or a 2-in-1 breaker (the ones that have 2 breakers but uses 1 slot) and maybe have it so when the FACP is in alarm, all the emergency lights turn on :)
Because I don't want to tear the house apart more
@ oh, ok, I understand :)
I probably need to install a system in my house like you for me to be satisfied.
My exact thoughts lol I'm very jealous of his setup for everything he has from the secured doors with the fob scan way to get into all the doors and all of his generators. I honestly can't think of any better way than this for a house!!!!
Great video. Thank you for sharing. Have a nice weekend
Nice vídeo!
I love your content, Nick ❤️ 😊
So cool!
Nice!
Hope you get better nic
What was she laughing at? I must know!
Edit: Cover that open junction box.. Cant have an open junction box.
I said Fred instead of fed and goofed up my words.
In england we call the screwed fixing plaster plugs
Love your videos!
Random question that occurred to me... What does Canada's fire codes say about Wago (and Wago-style) connectors? I saw you using wire nuts, which is what was already in situ so that makes sense. I've always used wire nuts up until very recently, but I gotta admit Wagos are pretty darn convenient!
2:34 - I think she's laughing at "..which is Fred..." I think you should now slap a Dymo-label name tag on the emergency light now known as Fred the Emergency Light. 😆 He can be part of the supporting cast in your videos.
9:45 - Not to sound critical, but I'm genuinely concerned about the clearance between the wood and the duct that you're fishing the wire through. The duct will vibrate and possibly wear through the insulation at some point from rubbing. I know you didn't really have much choice, but I'd rather you not resort to "real-world testing" on your fire alarm! ⚡🔥 It'd be useful to know what circuit you tapped into, just in case...
9:56 - Nic, it's 2024, it's safe to come out of the closet. 🤣 J/K, I use that joke all the time at work. "Connor, stop filling the mop bucket and come out of the closet already!"
12:34 & 12:37 - Gesundheit!
17:51 - I can't really criticize you for that, I've done it myself, in my basement. I was completely removing a screw-base lampholder (a metal one!) from a j-box and tying in wire from a new lampholder I installed in the one unlit corner of the basement (also metal, a leftover from when the house was built in '75). I was your age, too, when I did it (I had to have been 19 or 20), and using lineman's pliers just like you were. If you're REALLY careful, it can be done - although, of course, I recommend against it. I was in a hurry, and took a silly risk (not knowing the basement lights were on their own dedicated breaker, and not wanting to keep flipping things off in the house trying to find it because my tech-school-trained father never labeled the circuits, we didn't even have the cover installed until I found it in 1999!), and lucky for both of us, no incident occurred.
Well, I finally did it - I installed my very own emergency light, in my garage/man cave/"studio" over the entryway, and a remote head over the entryway on the exterior wall. I didn't want one of those Generic Plastic Models with odd-shaped NiCd battery packs, I bought a no-name metal one that runs off a 6v SLA because those batteries are easily-replaceable, easy to find, and I can always add another battery in parallel, or buy a higher-capacity battery, if I ever want more runtime.
With two indoor LED heads and one external LED remote head, battery fully charged, I shut off the breaker feeding it and let it run from about 10:50 PM until 2:10 AM with no noticeable dip in brightness. I had to leave for work, otherwise I would have let it run until it failed just because I was curious how long it would actually run for on one 6Ah battery. It's certainly more than enough for my needs in what is roughly a 12' X 12' (3.6m X 3.6m) space; and the remote head, while not as bright as the indoor spots, puts out enough light for me to safely walk to/from the car.
In retrospect, I should have bought the combination Exit/Emergency Light from the same manufacturer, but at the time I ordered it, I was planning on restoring a 1990s Exit sign salvaged from a local strip mall. I dumpster-dove to get it, I found some pieces of three different models and chucked that stuff into a box to sort through later. Long story short, I have a bunch of parts that essentially won't work together, and so no way to Frankenstein one working "90s vintage" Exit sign out of the mess - unless I want to use one without a red diffuser and cover over the power supply/battery compartment. 🤦♂
(If anyone happens to have the diffuser and top cover for a Hubbell/Dual Lite PDPRW-19 - according to the sticker inside, I can't find any other reference to its existence or what its actual "series" name is - please, for the love of whatever you find sacred, let me know!) The sticker says Hubbell Electrical, it's a plastic one with a downward-hinged cover, incandescent with a separate removable compartment at the top that holds the transformer, battery, and charging circuitry. I've spent a few hours trying to find any reference online about it, and haven't gotten anywhere. Might have to hit FleaBay, and I haven't gotten anything from there since... 2003?
I'm breaking tradition slightly... The same breaker feeding the emergency light and mounted-but-not-yet-connected Exit light is also going to feed one receptacle, for my WiFi Range Extender. It'll (eventually) be on a high shelf that might also hold a knickknack or ten, so that one receptacle isn't going to be doing anything else. Should be OK, right? 😜
You can use whatever type of connecters as long as they are CSA listed. I just choose not to as I've had issues with them in the past I will just use them if it's very low current. Something like this would've been fine to use on.
Hope you feel better! 🤒
❤Lightsome❤🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
I’m in Canada and I’m wondering where can I get a Notifier 10” Motor bell.
Can probably get used ones on eBay. Or some wholesalers might have them but you can definitely get the Edwards ones which are the same thing.
@@nics-systems-electric thank you so much
QUESTION: I bought an exit sign emergency light combo. Its been running for a while and the transformer is very warm, not too hot to touch, but still hot. Is this bad? Or is a warm transformer normal?
Yeah some of them do that
I love how you turned your house into a commercial building 😂
I love your videos
Nice video
Nothing better than more emergency lighting to blind your eyes when power is out lol (This is a joke, pls dont take it serious nic)
💡lightsome💡
How come this was removed and re uploaded ?
Was just temporarily set to private
Ah fairs
What type of emergency light is that?
Lithonia ELM2L
@@JMWtrainsnstuff Ty
yea U saw the previous video so good on you for installing a emergency light their
Yeah well I made the video so I definitely saw it
@@nics-systems-electric yea it’s good to have emergency lighting I haven’t gotten any in my apartment
I was just commenting on your last emergency light install video asking if you were gonna install them in bathrooms, but I don't think you saw it, and I don't know if you will see this one either considering how late i'm commenting this
I believe I talked about the bathrooms in my video showing the whole house power outage and explained how enough light comes in from outside to be able to see
hey nic why wont u try to to connect a bigger generator for the house
It way too much work I’m guessing and would cost way too much for him
Because he doesn’t want to and it costs a lot of moolah
oh i didnt know one thing u can do is have 50 or 100 car batteries as the eletric version of it but expenisve indeed it will be bc idk but in sweden it cost around 100 or 51 idk but that idk really know the price of it
@@uzi686nic isn’t rich lol and that would be a really bad fire hazard
Like I always say check out my video explaining why. The house would require a very large generator because of the electric heating load. As we don't have propane or natural gas it would have to be diesel which is very expensive you would be over $25,000 for an install like that.
Did you know that you can connect a fire alarm system to a security alarm system?
Yes that is something that you can do and is often done.
Honestly your voice sounds the same as your average voice
Hi
Sup
Oooh nick, the anxiety you give me when you cut towards your arm with a stanley knife. Not good.
I don't have any Stanley knives. It's a extremely sharp knife with a new blade so it's safe to cut towards you still very controlled.
@nics-systems-electric always cut away from your thumb, and towards your chum....
@@rayarsenault4774 not always true, if you have a good sharp knife it can be safer to cut in whatever way you have the most control and precision.
Ngl, i can't hear the difference in your voice.
EDIT: Here's how you check to see what is on what breaker: Everything in the home, atleast in the United States, is 120VAC, and DC overpowers AC. So you can just push DC current through the circuit and it'll pop the breaker that it's on. However, I DO NOT ADVISE YOU DO THIS, SHORT-CIRCUITING A HIGH-VOLTAGE SOURCE CAN CAUSE SPARKS AND/OR CINDERS WHICH CAN CAUSE A FIRE.
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Can you please change my fire alarm? John G Whittier elementary school Scranton pa