Thanks a lot! You just helped me fix the dead keys on my 30 year old D50. I was 17 years old when I bought this synth. I have been using it ever since. I am glad I found this video and the courage to repair it myself. Hail from the Netherlands!
All I can say is AMAZING!!!!! I own a Roland JV1000. I hadn't played it in years because of the dreaded red glob ooze. When I took it out, my initial intention was to address that. I marked the keys that were still stuck from a prior attempt to "unstick" them .. I was very meticulous and methodical. I found that there was a thin plastic strip which prevented the keys from sliding out. I stripped that off and then went to work on all the stuck keys. Fixed them and put the synth back together and to my surprise had about 10 dead keys and some that were striking full on.. I was so irritated. I looked at the contact boards and there appeared to be some glue residue, cleaned the boards and still had dead notes. I scoured the Internet and found used replacement contact boards for a JV80 which would have fit the JV1000 but I did one more search and found this here. I gently cleaned the tips of the rubber contact strips and used the "graphite" fix for all of the contacts on the contact board, turn it on and every key played flawlessly. Thank you .. Thank you .. Thank you!!
I have just fixed a dead note problem on an old S50. I have little electronics knowledge but followed a number of videos. The keys were, from the bottom, Csharp A above and F above that. Tried all the cleaning tips on these videos and no joy. Tested the diodes and continuity of circuit traces with a multimeter - all diodes were OK but there was a break in continuity on one trace beween the bottom and adjacent keyboard circuit boards. The problem was a pinhead size spot of corrosion on one copper trace. Cleaned back and fixed using silver conductive paint - voila - notes restored. These videos are a great source of info.
Thank you so much for this video. I bought a D50 last week and one of the keys dropped and stayed like that. I figured it was probably a spring or something. I am so happy to have learned how to fix it myself with your help showing how to remove the keybed. A very enjoyable experience.
Great video! Very thorough, all bases covered! My only comments would be that I admire your confidence that the problem(s) was fixed before you replaced ALL the base retention screws! I always test the repair(s) before putting all cover screws back in. Next, I highly recommend magnetizing all my screwdrivers, manual and powered, to keep extracted screws from falling into whatever I'm working on. I use a salvaged hard drive magnet to quickly magnetize the shafts. Screw replacement is also much easier with screws which stick to the driver bits. Thanks for the great video!
I've spent half an hour trying to get the bottom back on but you've just clipped it in. :') Thank you for the video. I knocked my dad's keyboard and jammed a key and this helped loads.
Cool, nice video, thanks. I had the same problem on my D50. Just 2 points : 1.It is not necessary to unmount the small board attached to the keyboard. 2. I only cleaned the rubbers and PCB without adding carbon Now it works fine.
Cheers Tommy Thanks for this needed to change a broken Key , Followed u and now works great, Difference was wires also tied with plastic ties to keyboard as well as screws, Advice to anyone be careful very hard to cut without cutting wires so make sure you put a small screwdriver between wires and blade when cutting, you can cut one tie then pull keyboard out slightly and cut from bottom.
If you haven’t, try patch base- I can import/export entire D50 libraries at the touch of my iPad, I can also control every parameter in real time. All patches get backed up to the cloud. It’s incredible.
Thanks for this video! I had a key not working and this video helped me through the disassembly in the proper order and made me identify the problem (black key broken into four parts, but was possible to glue them together and then reinsert the key again) and afterwards a working D50 again! I have had it since it was new... :-)
I dont mean to be so offtopic but does someone know of a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I stupidly lost my account password. I love any help you can offer me.
@Camden Raul Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Tommy, thank you for doing this video! I'm going to attempt to fix a couple dead and nearly-dead keys on my old D-50 before I do the unthinkable....trade it in!
@@mostlyharmless0544 Hi Brinstar, I guess it was a bad contact, I just followed Tommy's instructions to ensure that the rubber bit was free of any dirt and then used a pencil exactly as he did to go over the contacts. I didn't have any of the Kontact spray he used, I think I may have used a lens wipe instead to clean things up before using the pencil. Taking it apart is a bit daunting but it's actually not difficult. It's eighteen months since I did it, I've used this keyboard almost daily since then and everything's still working. Good luck.
Concerning the tension springs: the shorter ones go on the white keys, the longer ones retract the black keys. The video is very helpful for disassembling the keyboard. I didn't do the pencil trick however. Just cleaned the contacts with a cotton cloth and Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA). The carbon dots in the rubber domes looked a bit glazy when I started. After cleaning this was gone and the dots looked matt. The keyboard works just fine now.
Hey, thanks for your video, this is super helpful! I managed to repair contacts on keys with dynamics issue but I'm stuck with 2 dead keys F#1 and D2, I cleanded the contacts but they're definitely dead, I put graphite on the contacts as well, could it be something else?
Hey Tom -- thanks much.. I never had one go bad on me yet but grateful all you people put that out there !!! PERSONAL QUESTION --- Are you related to the Helgevolds from Eagle Grove IA? I know them well. Very good people !!
I don't know them Personally, I was born in Norway and currently live in Sweden, but as far as I know, we are all related one way or another, we're a big family, but I don't know everyone.
@@TommyHelgevold Thanks for reply. They are really big into organic farming. They use no pesticides, and use ladybugs etc. to fight off pests. Their land was tested and is rated richer than the Nile Delta valley. Their corn stocks yield 3-4 ears per stock as opposed to 2. And it's the tastiest corn I ever ate in my life! Thought you would like a bit of history on them. They are very honorable people.. God Bless!!
@@leonarddobrzyn725 Well thank you, that was uplifting news, good to hear in these times. I wish I knew them but I don't, the name (afaik from my family's own history) stems from a guy named Helge and he lived on a "vold" which basicall ment hill in Norwegian, so it's probably Helge Hill that lived on "that hill".
Thank you for such a great video. I am trying to clean up an old Roland ep7 with sticky keys and your video was so easy to follow (especially the basic tips for springs and plastic strips) or taking off the keys (with basically the same layout).. Can you give any insight how to clean and dissolve that dreaded red glue? A lot of the weights fell out and many black keys weren't moving. I've tried everything from GooGone (US) to paint thinner and acetone (in light swabs). The only real effect I've had so far was actually soaking keys in vinegar or rubbing alcohol, but that only made it gummy and still impossible to dissolve. This was a free keyboard and might be a lost cause after my attempt, but thank you for any insight.
thanks for a very helpful video!! Please are you able to tell me what might be the problem of a note staying locked on, but the key is not depressed? When a keyboard I want to work on is switched on it has a continual sound, though no key is pressed. It also has a few dead keys which I intend on cleaning as you have done! It is a Roland VK1 if that makes any difference..thanks if you can help Tommy, no worries if you cant!
I’ve had my d50 since 87. Sadly it had been in a case decades. When I opened the case I noticed some degradation of the foam. I replaced the battery and downloaded the sounds and brought it back to life. It gave me such joy! But I have 8 dead successive keys starting with the lowest C to G. I thought maybe the foam particles got on the contacts but when I checked it was pretty clean. I followed your instructions to clean and even used a pencil but the keys still don’t work. Everything else seems fine. Since the dead keys are in a row I was wondering if there is an issue with the board. I’d appreciate any ideas you may have. Thanks for the vid!
I have a vintage analog synth casio ct 702 and has the same way of attaching the keys with those springs and the keys feel solid and so good to press . does the yamaha d 50 has the same feel? and what about other syths or keyboards that have the springs attached to the keys vertically?And can e high end modern keyboard/synth feel as good as the casio 701 and other vintage synths?
Yeah, it's heavy. You should have seen what happened to my hardwood floor downstairs. This is a beast, there's now a permanent mark on that floor, 1cm deep. :/
HaHa yeah I know, I'm repairing an S-10 right now, these old Roland boards are built like tanks. Ready for the road abuse I guess thats why a lot of old school electronic groups swore by these things.
I blew mines trying to clean the contacts, I bought mines in mid 90's. I cleaned every contact. But when I screwed everything back up a couple of notes were still not working so I opened it again. This time I decided not to screw everything back together again and test the keys while it was open. I thought this would be easier but unfortunately I touched something inside against something metal on my desk and blew the thing. Just bought a dd50 rack which is a roland d50 without the keys. I will now be able to access the sounds via midi controller and at least I won't have the contact problem again. But I bet I can fix my roland d50 if I knew better what I was doing.
A great helpful video, so thanks for this. I recently found my boxed up D50 stored away for more than 30 years ago and its looks spanking new! Only the battery needed to be replaced and managed this after biting the bullet to take the D50 apart. However the 3rd G# key didn’t work and I tried what toy did with a pencil and cleaning the contacts under the rubber. I even swapped the rubber around from another key and that did not work. Could the board be faulty on just one key? If so, can one still buy any of these green circuit boards?
You may have to apply the proper graphite, not all pencils have that, and you need to fill the "microholes with that" with a little pressure with a nano cloth, then clean quickly with a soft touch both contact points, rubber and pad. I highly doubt that ONE PCB wire has gone bad, but it IS possible that you have some dry-soldering somewhere. It'd be worth it to go over all solder points with some fresh LEAD (not the new type of solder) because it could have dried out and created some bad connections. Worth doing!
Hi there, fantastic video! Excuse my stupidity but would this be roughly the same to dismantle a D10? I have got 2 x D10's in need of some key fixes and was going to attempt it myself after watching your repair. If you've got any pointers I would love to hear from you as you look as though you know your way around a Roland synth! :-D
Please can u make a video to help me fix my rubbers and the Keys in order. I actually pulled out the rubbers and mix them. Now am confused which should come first or second... On my Roland D20... Can it still work if I fix any of the rubbers and keys anywhere if only the sit in properly? Please help me
I have a Roland S-50 sampling keyboard with an intermittent key, but it is built different as far as the bottom doesn't come off to access the innards. You take the end caps off and remove screws that allow the top to hinge open. I wonder if it is really necessary to remove the entire keyboard section from the unit just to remove a key. Also, I'd like to add, you really should put a towel or soft cloth on your work surface when you lay the instrument down on it's face to avoid scratching it.
I found out I had to remove the entire keys section because there is a plastic strip underneath that keeps the keys from pulling out. I had to remove one of the circuit boards because it overhung the keys section. After I removed the board, I was able to move the keys section back and up out of the unit.
Thanks for the Video; it was very helpful. My Rodgers C-100 just developed a reproducible issue. In the left hand (bass clef), My wife, the musician in the family, will get a bizarre loud sound if she plays a (B, Em, another B chord) and adds any combination of Ab, G, or Gb notes. It only happens with those combinations. I think it's a failing IC board, but I thought I'd ask if anyone else has run into this problem. Thanks!
Hello and thank you for your video you really helped me, can i ask please the think you did with the pencil is it able to do for the aftertouch strip? And if yes is it safe to uncover this thing it has on the aftertouch strip? I did the test on the d50 and aftertouch reach max 80 velocity... Thank you kindly!
No, the aftertouch strip is a pressure sensitive strip that is entirely contained inside plastic. However, if the contacts have become lose, just use some contact spray for the end of the strip to the connectior at the end, be careful and clean it with a soft microcloth, it's very brittle. Fortunately the strip should be fairly standard and easy to get.
Just did a cleaning on my d50. Some of the function buttons work but aren’t making a clean contact every time. The “write” button for example. Would electronics cleaner work if I sprayed it? Don’t want to take a chance ruining it.
You can safely remove the taped on "clicky metal" and spray a little contact spray on it, and clean with a micro cloth afterwards, and tape it back on again. If it's a mechanical button, it might need replacement.
Any suggestions on how to fix the "enter" button. My D50 works ok, the patch/banks buttons are a little sticky, I just have to push firmly, but the enter button does not work. So I can't edit/save patches. This is driving me nuts. Any suggestions on how to fix this, or use an editor app. (which I am trying but no luck yet). Awesome video, thanks so much for posting, any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated.
Remove the enter button, and check if the contact spring has gone bad, could need a little forced bending it back into place (the middle bulge), so it makes that distinct "click" sound again.
That might actually be a good idea since that's a glue WITH conductive abilities, but non-professionals should let professionals do that since it can create serious contact issues with the rest of the keyboard if used incorrectly. Thanks for the tip, that will def. go right into my workshop
I have a D-50 with a problem where any key I hit, no matter how hard, it plays at full max 127 velocity. I cleaned all the contacts for every key and made sure the rubber strips were placed correctly.. any ideas what might be wrong?
If it's at full velocity, it still might be a contact issue between the two contact pads that registers the speed of your finger-presses (thats why there are a low and a high contact point). You need to clean it again, and maybe even check the PCB traces under it to see if there is any broken traces!
looking at your desk I have the same D50 model keyboard to fix with a dead key and the same blue-backlit keyboard and pencil. By item, this is almost my desk also...
Could be broken PCB traces on the PCB, are the 4 keys locally next to each other or random places all over the keyboard? If it's the ones next to each other, it could be as simple as a broken wire connection between the keyboard and the multiplexer (the scanner that scans the entire keyboard for keypresses), that'd be that little PCB you see right under the keyboard), check the contact points on each of them!
I have a Roland d50 too. It was my first synth when I was 14. Now all keys are that they do not respond to "on" key, online when I release them. Via midi everything is fine. Do your thing that makes sense to clean all the keys or is the mainboard or cable broken?
@@dubtube6691 I would replace the battery on the mainboard first, then try to do a factory reset on the unit, might be some function that has temporarily disabled the keyboard, or just a software error. Worth a shot. (No Idea how to do a factory reset on it, you will have to google it).
@@TommyHelgevold good idea with the battery, I will try it one last time :) Use the following procedure to clear the memory: Power on while holding down Data Transfer and 0 buttons. Use the following procedure to reload the Factory Settings from a sequencer or librarian program: Press the Tune/Function button and select Protect by pushing Tone Balance. Use the joystick to change Protect to Off. Press and Hold the Data Transfer button and while holding the button select [B.Load] Continue holding the Data Transfer button and press Enter. Continue holding the Data Transfer button and send the bulk dump from your external unit and wait until the screens says Complete.
No, you don't have to in every instance. The thing with the graphite, is that it fills the micro-holes in the surface of the contact pads, by rubbing it in with a cloth, you ensure these particles stays jammed into the cracks and micro-holes of the worn contact pad. At least that's my experience.
I have a weird one. My middle C note sometimes hits full velocity even if I just touch it lightly. One person I know said it might be a dead trace, another person said dust… guess I’ll find out. Other than that, my keyboard works perfectly.
Gabo Prado , not entirely sure what you mean by that. Did you mean the part of the first upload I removed? If so, that was an youtube editor mistake, since opencut have a memory leak issue and won't render my entire video, so I had to edit the parts with youtube. The outtake is just me ranting about not being prepared and 4 minutes of rummaging for tools ;
Gabo Prado Ah, it's kind of like an analog joystick that can be used for either a custom setting adjustment "live" while performing, or fade between upper/lower sound etc.
Tommy Helgevold thank you so much for the information I just got mine Roland and I'm still don't know many features,because I bought it without the manual Thank you again
Do Not use toilet paper, as it has fibers in it that would stick to the contacts and rubber contacts and would cause more headaches down the road!!! Use a type of paper or sponge that would not leave particles behind!!!!
oh no! not the pencil fix. Wears off after a while. Get some special paint or use some of those conductive dot things instead! Here is what I did to my D 50. Had a bad C# #4 . Looked at the contacts, had a line where the key presses down. Took some ACETONE (got it at the drug store) and a Q tip and cleaned off the contact pad on the rubber thing, where the line was. Put it back together works as new! The acetone is a solvent and will eat off a layer of the conductive stuff, along with the impurities. PLEASE don't use the PENCIL TRICK. Its a temporary fix at best, and do you REALLY want to open up this pain in the ass again, with all of the fragile cable connectors (about 20)???I sure dont!
Hi, I've played with it daily since you replied, and it still works fine :) What the graphite does, is that it fills up the micro holes that comes from tear-and-wear, and what you really are doing is "pushing" the excess graphite into those micro holes with the cloth afterwards, it should last for years, I've done it to numerous synths that has lasted 10+ years after that.
@@SIRAYEH seeing as how d 50 is a major pain in the ass to disassemble, youre better off just getting the new rubber strips bustedgear.com/repair_Roland_d50_key_contacts.html
Thanks a lot! You just helped me fix the dead keys on my 30 year old D50. I was 17 years old when I bought this synth. I have been using it ever since. I am glad I found this video and the courage to repair it myself. Hail from the Netherlands!
All I can say is AMAZING!!!!! I own a Roland JV1000. I hadn't played it in years because of the dreaded red glob ooze. When I took it out, my initial intention was to address that. I marked the keys that were still stuck from a prior attempt to "unstick" them .. I was very meticulous and methodical. I found that there was a thin plastic strip which prevented the keys from sliding out. I stripped that off and then went to work on all the stuck keys. Fixed them and put the synth back together and to my surprise had about 10 dead keys and some that were striking full on.. I was so irritated. I looked at the contact boards and there appeared to be some glue residue, cleaned the boards and still had dead notes. I scoured the Internet and found used replacement contact boards for a JV80 which would have fit the JV1000 but I did one more search and found this here. I gently cleaned the tips of the rubber contact strips and used the "graphite" fix for all of the contacts on the contact board, turn it on and every key played flawlessly. Thank you .. Thank you .. Thank you!!
Hi Tom. This video helped so much. I fixed my dead note on middle C using your video. Thanks Avesh from South Africa 🇿🇦
A really nice video for us happy People playing a Roland D-50 😀
Many thanks, your tutorial was really helpful ! From Brussels with love.
I have just fixed a dead note problem on an old S50. I have little electronics knowledge but followed a number of videos. The keys were, from the bottom, Csharp A above and F above that. Tried all the cleaning tips on these videos and no joy. Tested the diodes and continuity of circuit traces with a multimeter - all diodes were OK but there was a break in continuity on one trace beween the bottom and adjacent keyboard circuit boards. The problem was a pinhead size spot of corrosion on one copper trace. Cleaned back and fixed using silver conductive paint - voila - notes restored. These videos are a great source of info.
Thank you so much for this video. I bought a D50 last week and one of the keys dropped and stayed like that. I figured it was probably a spring or something. I am so happy to have learned how to fix it myself with your help showing how to remove the keybed. A very enjoyable experience.
Great video! Very thorough, all bases covered! My only comments would be that I admire your confidence that the problem(s) was fixed before you replaced ALL the base retention screws! I always test the repair(s) before putting all cover screws back in. Next, I highly recommend magnetizing all my screwdrivers, manual and powered, to keep extracted screws from falling into whatever I'm working on. I use a salvaged hard drive magnet to quickly magnetize the shafts. Screw replacement is also much easier with screws which stick to the driver bits.
Thanks for the great video!
Thanks for your comment Geoff. And you're right. I was probably too focused on making the whole video in one go with a minimum of editing.
I've spent half an hour trying to get the bottom back on but you've just clipped it in. :')
Thank you for the video. I knocked my dad's keyboard and jammed a key and this helped loads.
Scratch that, I was trying to put the bottom on upside down. :')
Worked like a charm! For my D20. I thought it was gone forever. Thanks so much!
Cool, nice video, thanks. I had the same problem on my D50. Just 2 points :
1.It is not necessary to unmount the small board attached to the keyboard.
2. I only cleaned the rubbers and PCB without adding carbon
Now it works fine.
Yup, there's no need to add graphite if the only problems where dust particles. Good job!
This is why men rock. Thank you so so much.
Cheers Tommy Thanks for this needed to change a broken Key , Followed u and now works great, Difference was wires also tied with plastic ties to keyboard as well as screws, Advice to anyone be careful very hard to cut without cutting wires so make sure you put a small screwdriver between wires and blade when cutting, you can cut one tie then pull keyboard out slightly and cut from bottom.
Thank you! I have a few dead keys grouped together on my Roland and am going to try this. I would love to get it working again.
Awesome! This actually helped me with my Roland D20! Thanks! :)
If you haven’t, try patch base- I can import/export entire D50 libraries at the touch of my iPad, I can also control every parameter in real time. All patches get backed up to the cloud. It’s incredible.
Thank you for sharing this video. I had 1 dead key that wasn't working, and wondering how to get to it and clean it. This really helps.
Thanks for this video! I had a key not working and this video helped me through the disassembly in the proper order and made me identify the problem (black key broken into four parts, but was possible to glue them together and then reinsert the key again) and afterwards a working D50 again!
I have had it since it was new... :-)
I dont mean to be so offtopic but does someone know of a tool to get back into an instagram account??
I stupidly lost my account password. I love any help you can offer me.
@Kristopher Briggs Instablaster :)
@Camden Raul Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Camden Raul it worked and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my ass!
@Kristopher Briggs no problem :)
Ok thank You very much.
Now it works! You save my life!
Tommy, thank you for doing this video! I'm going to attempt to fix a couple dead and nearly-dead keys on my old D-50 before I do the unthinkable....trade it in!
Thanks a lot for posting this. I had two keys on my D20 that always sounded at maximum velocity, I fixed them today.
I have the same thing but with only one key. What was the issue?
@@mostlyharmless0544 Hi Brinstar, I guess it was a bad contact, I just followed Tommy's instructions to ensure that the rubber bit was free of any dirt and then used a pencil exactly as he did to go over the contacts. I didn't have any of the Kontact spray he used, I think I may have used a lens wipe instead to clean things up before using the pencil. Taking it apart is a bit daunting but it's actually not difficult. It's eighteen months since I did it, I've used this keyboard almost daily since then and everything's still working. Good luck.
Thank you!! The Keyboard of my D-50 works just fine now :)
Thanks, In the process of fixing my Roland D20 , Cheers
Concerning the tension springs: the shorter ones go on the white keys, the longer ones retract the black keys. The video is very helpful for disassembling the keyboard. I didn't do the pencil trick however. Just cleaned the contacts with a cotton cloth and Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA). The carbon dots in the rubber domes looked a bit glazy when I started. After cleaning this was gone and the dots looked matt. The keyboard works just fine now.
Great! I'll use your video to fix my d20 dead key ;)
Thank you sir. I replaced a broken key following your video
very helpful, thank you
Thank you for this!
Hey, thanks for your video, this is super helpful! I managed to repair contacts on keys with dynamics issue but I'm stuck with 2 dead keys F#1 and D2, I cleanded the contacts but they're definitely dead, I put graphite on the contacts as well, could it be something else?
The graphite was the fix THANKS!!!
Hey Tom -- thanks much.. I never had one go bad on me yet but grateful all you people put that out there !!! PERSONAL QUESTION --- Are you related to the Helgevolds from Eagle Grove IA? I know them well. Very good people !!
I don't know them Personally, I was born in Norway and currently live in Sweden, but as far as I know, we are all related one way or another, we're a big family, but I don't know everyone.
@@TommyHelgevold Thanks for reply. They are really big into organic farming. They use no pesticides, and use ladybugs etc. to fight off pests. Their land was tested and is rated richer than the Nile Delta valley. Their corn stocks yield 3-4 ears per stock as opposed to 2. And it's the tastiest corn I ever ate in my life! Thought you would like a bit of history on them. They are very honorable people.. God Bless!!
@@leonarddobrzyn725 Well thank you, that was uplifting news, good to hear in these times. I wish I knew them but I don't, the name (afaik from my family's own history) stems from a guy named Helge and he lived on a "vold" which basicall ment hill in Norwegian, so it's probably Helge Hill that lived on "that hill".
I fixed my Casio CTK-1200, all it took was a pencil THANKS so much
Thank you for such a great video. I am trying to clean up an old Roland ep7 with sticky keys and your video was so easy to follow (especially the basic tips for springs and plastic strips) or taking off the keys (with basically the same layout)..
Can you give any insight how to clean and dissolve that dreaded red glue?
A lot of the weights fell out and many black keys weren't moving. I've tried everything from GooGone (US) to paint thinner and acetone (in light swabs). The only real effect I've had so far was actually soaking keys in vinegar or rubbing alcohol, but that only made it gummy and still impossible to dissolve. This was a free keyboard and might be a lost cause after my attempt, but thank you for any insight.
thanks for a very helpful video!! Please are you able to tell me what might be the problem of a note staying locked on, but the key is not depressed? When a keyboard I want to work on is switched on it has a continual sound, though no key is pressed. It also has a few dead keys which I intend on cleaning as you have done! It is a Roland VK1 if that makes any difference..thanks if you can help Tommy, no worries if you cant!
I’ve had my d50 since 87. Sadly it had been in a case decades. When I opened the case I noticed some degradation of the foam. I replaced the battery and downloaded the sounds and brought it back to life. It gave me such joy! But I have 8 dead successive keys starting with the lowest C to G. I thought maybe the foam particles got on the contacts but when I checked it was pretty clean. I followed your instructions to clean and even used a pencil but the keys still don’t work. Everything else seems fine. Since the dead keys are in a row I was wondering if there is an issue with the board. I’d appreciate any ideas you may have. Thanks for the vid!
I have a vintage analog synth casio ct 702 and has the same way of attaching the keys with those springs and the keys feel solid and so good to press . does the yamaha d 50 has the same feel? and what about other syths or keyboards that have the springs attached to the keys vertically?And can e high end modern keyboard/synth feel as good as the casio 701 and other vintage synths?
Nice. Service.
44:59 randomly clicked on this moment, startled me
Yeah, it's heavy. You should have seen what happened to my hardwood floor downstairs. This is a beast, there's now a permanent mark on that floor, 1cm deep. :/
HaHa yeah I know, I'm repairing an S-10 right now, these old Roland boards are built like tanks. Ready for the road abuse I guess thats why a lot of old school electronic groups swore by these things.
Does this work on Roland Juno D I have some keys that don't work. And what products do you used for this procedure
I blew mines trying to clean the contacts, I bought mines in mid 90's. I cleaned every contact. But when I screwed everything back up a couple of notes were still not working so I opened it again. This time I decided not to screw everything back together again and test the keys while it was open. I thought this would be easier but unfortunately I touched something inside against something metal on my desk and blew the thing. Just bought a dd50 rack which is a roland d50 without the keys. I will now be able to access the sounds via midi controller and at least I won't have the contact problem again. But I bet I can fix my roland d50 if I knew better what I was doing.
A great helpful video, so thanks for this. I recently found my boxed up D50 stored away for more than 30 years ago and its looks spanking new! Only the battery needed to be replaced and managed this after biting the bullet to take the D50 apart. However the 3rd G# key didn’t work and I tried what toy did with a pencil and cleaning the contacts under the rubber. I even swapped the rubber around from another key and that did not work. Could the board be faulty on just one key? If so, can one still buy any of these green circuit boards?
You may have to apply the proper graphite, not all pencils have that, and you need to fill the "microholes with that" with a little pressure with a nano cloth, then clean quickly with a soft touch both contact points, rubber and pad.
I highly doubt that ONE PCB wire has gone bad, but it IS possible that you have some dry-soldering somewhere. It'd be worth it to go over all solder points with some fresh LEAD (not the new type of solder) because it could have dried out and created some bad connections. Worth doing!
Hi there, fantastic video! Excuse my stupidity but would this be roughly the same to dismantle a D10? I have got 2 x D10's in need of some key fixes and was going to attempt it myself after watching your repair. If you've got any pointers I would love to hear from you as you look as though you know your way around a Roland synth! :-D
Most Roland keyboards in the D-series is the same keyboard wise, so yes. Go ahead ;) But be gentle.
I have a problem keys work great but there is no sound kr 4700 is it worth looking to get it repaired
Would it be okay to also put some graphite on the contacts of the strips as well?
Great video, I have a D-20 🙂
Please can u make a video to help me fix my rubbers and the Keys in order. I actually pulled out the rubbers and mix them. Now am confused which should come first or second...
On my Roland D20...
Can it still work if I fix any of the rubbers and keys anywhere if only the sit in properly?
Please help me
I have a Roland S-50 sampling keyboard with an intermittent key, but it is built different as far as the bottom doesn't come off to access the innards. You take the end caps off and remove screws that allow the top to hinge open. I wonder if it is really necessary to remove the entire keyboard section from the unit just to remove a key. Also, I'd like to add, you really should put a towel or soft cloth on your work surface when you lay the instrument down on it's face to avoid scratching it.
I found out I had to remove the entire keys section because there is a plastic strip underneath that keeps the keys from pulling out. I had to remove one of the circuit boards because it overhung the keys section. After I removed the board, I was able to move the keys section back and up out of the unit.
Hi, the captions of function buttons came off on my Ensoniq SQ2, is there a hime way to redo the text on the front panel? Thnx!
Thanks for the Video; it was very helpful.
My Rodgers C-100 just developed a reproducible issue.
In the left hand (bass clef), My wife, the musician in the family, will get a bizarre loud sound if she plays a (B, Em, another B chord) and adds any combination of Ab, G, or Gb notes.
It only happens with those combinations.
I think it's a failing IC board, but I thought I'd ask if anyone else has run into this problem.
Thanks!
Hello and thank you for your video you really helped me, can i ask please the think you did with the pencil is it able to do for the aftertouch strip?
And if yes is it safe to uncover this thing it has on the aftertouch strip? I did the test on the d50 and aftertouch reach max 80 velocity...
Thank you kindly!
No, the aftertouch strip is a pressure sensitive strip that is entirely contained inside plastic. However, if the contacts have become lose, just use some contact spray for the end of the strip to the connectior at the end, be careful and clean it with a soft microcloth, it's very brittle. Fortunately the strip should be fairly standard and easy to get.
Thanks a lot, you used a kontakt 61 spray, can i use wd 40?
@@TommyHelgevold
Just did a cleaning on my d50. Some of the function buttons work but aren’t making a clean contact every time. The “write” button for example. Would electronics cleaner work if I sprayed it? Don’t want to take a chance ruining it.
You can safely remove the taped on "clicky metal" and spray a little contact spray on it, and clean with a micro cloth afterwards, and tape it back on again. If it's a mechanical button, it might need replacement.
Any suggestions on how to fix the "enter" button. My D50 works ok, the patch/banks buttons are a little sticky, I just have to push firmly, but the enter button does not work. So I can't edit/save patches. This is driving me nuts. Any suggestions on how to fix this, or use an editor app. (which I am trying but no luck yet). Awesome video, thanks so much for posting, any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated.
Remove the enter button, and check if the contact spring has gone bad, could need a little forced bending it back into place (the middle bulge), so it makes that distinct "click" sound again.
more seriously, use loctite 3863 ont the black contacts of the rubbers or graphit spray if you want. It will last longer...
That might actually be a good idea since that's a glue WITH conductive abilities, but non-professionals should let professionals do that since it can create serious contact issues with the rest of the keyboard if used incorrectly. Thanks for the tip, that will def. go right into my workshop
I have a D-50 with a problem where any key I hit, no matter how hard, it plays at full max 127 velocity. I cleaned all the contacts for every key and made sure the rubber strips were placed correctly.. any ideas what might be wrong?
If it's at full velocity, it still might be a contact issue between the two contact pads that registers the speed of your finger-presses (thats why there are a low and a high contact point). You need to clean it again, and maybe even check the PCB traces under it to see if there is any broken traces!
looking at your desk I have the same D50 model keyboard to fix with a dead key and the same blue-backlit keyboard and pencil. By item, this is almost my desk also...
Great vid tommy, maybe catch you on joost's channel another time :)
Absolutely, nice chatting with you in Joosts channel. ;)
i have four dead keys on my D-20 .. tried the graphic fix and a good cleaning. Nothing doin'.. any suggestions?
Could be broken PCB traces on the PCB, are the 4 keys locally next to each other or random places all over the keyboard? If it's the ones next to each other, it could be as simple as a broken wire connection between the keyboard and the multiplexer (the scanner that scans the entire keyboard for keypresses), that'd be that little PCB you see right under the keyboard), check the contact points on each of them!
What to do if the carbon contact was torn because of water?
Elvis is alive and well and fixing keyboards! Who knew?!🕺🤣🤣✌🏻
nice
I have a Roland d50 too. It was my first synth when I was 14. Now all keys are that they do not respond to "on" key, online when I release them. Via midi everything is fine. Do your thing that makes sense to clean all the keys or is the mainboard or cable broken?
I took everything apart and cleaned it. The problem still exist, so I think it must be the mainboard of the keys. Broken. Rest in peace vD-50
@@dubtube6691 I would replace the battery on the mainboard first, then try to do a factory reset on the unit, might be some function that has temporarily disabled the keyboard, or just a software error. Worth a shot. (No Idea how to do a factory reset on it, you will have to google it).
@@TommyHelgevold good idea with the battery, I will try it one last time :)
Use the following procedure to clear the memory:
Power on while holding down Data Transfer and 0 buttons.
Use the following procedure to reload the Factory Settings from a sequencer or librarian program:
Press the Tune/Function button and select Protect by pushing Tone Balance.
Use the joystick to change Protect to Off.
Press and Hold the Data Transfer button and while holding the button select [B.Load]
Continue holding the Data Transfer button and press Enter.
Continue holding the Data Transfer button and send the bulk dump from your external unit and wait until the screens says Complete.
Hello, I did it but now the keyboard doesn't work (the keys only, the synth still works). Could you please help me.
is it necessary to put the graphite on the contact?
No, you don't have to in every instance. The thing with the graphite, is that it fills the micro-holes in the surface of the contact pads, by rubbing it in with a cloth, you ensure these particles stays jammed into the cracks and micro-holes of the worn contact pad. At least that's my experience.
I have a weird one. My middle C note sometimes hits full velocity even if I just touch it lightly. One person I know said it might be a dead trace, another person said dust… guess I’ll find out. Other than that, my keyboard works perfectly.
the knob that has 4 arrows next to the Roland logo
15:33 "Oh Sheeeeeeeeeeeeiiiit" hehe
i always wonder what is the first thing you took out in the beginning ,what is for?
Gabo Prado , not entirely sure what you mean by that. Did you mean the part of the first upload I removed? If so, that was an youtube editor mistake, since opencut have a memory leak issue and won't render my entire video, so I had to edit the parts with youtube. The outtake is just me ranting about not being prepared and 4 minutes of rummaging for tools ;
This one
_lh3.googleusercontent.com/NXLjlPrGHWhqARpkRpt4DWGVWI8HPIHk6qs9QiDOVCI2yHDU2dc2hpixn71aoBZx-B_pinUvqg_
This
Gabo Prado Ah, it's kind of like an analog joystick that can be used for either a custom setting adjustment "live" while performing, or fade between upper/lower sound etc.
Tommy Helgevold thank you so much for the information I just got mine Roland and I'm still don't know many features,because I bought it without the manual
Thank you again
That is not how you test the keys after this procedure. You double press them to verify they don't have any release triggering
Do Not use toilet paper, as it has fibers in it that would stick to the contacts and rubber contacts and would cause more headaches down the road!!! Use a type of paper or sponge that would not leave particles behind!!!!
oh no! not the pencil fix. Wears off after a while. Get some special paint or use some of those conductive dot things instead! Here is what I did to my D 50. Had a bad C# #4 . Looked at the contacts, had a line where the key presses down. Took some ACETONE (got it at the drug store) and a Q tip and cleaned off the contact pad on the rubber thing, where the line was. Put it back together works as new! The acetone is a solvent and will eat off a layer of the conductive stuff, along with the impurities. PLEASE don't use the PENCIL TRICK. Its a temporary fix at best, and do you REALLY want to open up this pain in the ass again, with all of the fragile cable connectors (about 20)???I sure dont!
Hi, I've played with it daily since you replied, and it still works fine :) What the graphite does, is that it fills up the micro holes that comes from tear-and-wear, and what you really are doing is "pushing" the excess graphite into those micro holes with the cloth afterwards, it should last for years, I've done it to numerous synths that has lasted 10+ years after that.
What to do if the carbon contact was damaged?
@@SIRAYEH got to buy new strips
I've read some instruction that I can re-write the carbon print using a silver conductive wire glue. But I am not sure if this will fix it.
@@SIRAYEH seeing as how d 50 is a major pain in the ass to disassemble, youre better off just getting the new rubber strips bustedgear.com/repair_Roland_d50_key_contacts.html
For some reason I can not find any info about my Roland D-5 (not 50) multi timberal synthisizer