I agree about supporting the local little guys. I have a place less than 20 minutes away and their prices are better than the big online stores. Glad to see you trying out these frames. I've been tossing ideas around myself for something similar! Can't wait to see how it pans out for you.
I actually just heard back from Galena Farms today and they are looking into carrying them. They are going to report back once they decide. Fingers crossed!! The big frames are cool. It will be interesting to see what I learn from using them.
Great video Jason and thanks for keeping us up to date with the latest! Those are some brave birds to set up a nest in the bee yard! Congrats on your awesome book!!
I’d be interested in them. I considered building my own frames the same size as a deep and a medium for the brood chamber…then run supers on top. I like this idea.
Nice. I like big frames. I find using the Lazutin frames my bee's do better in winter. Mainly because no frame break to stop bees from moving up. And can leave 70 lbs of honey in hives for winter in the U.P. of Michigan. I use 17 frames in my Lazuting hive because that is what I get out of the 8 foot 2 by boards. I put a vertical skewer down the center and a small starter strip. The skewer helps keep the comb in the frame.
I’ve been running six hives with these extra-deep frames (made my own sidebars per Jim’s design @ Vino Farms) for 4 years now, along with foam insulation outer sleeves - 7 extra deep frames plus a spacer on one side in 8 frame boxes. Great over-wintering success - early build-up / lower winter honey consumption - in southern New England. My experience is the bees consistently and quickly build drone comb in the open space between the foundation sheets. Pretty convenient if part of your mite control is removing drone brood. Haven’t experienced any cross or bridge comb. The one downside is the time it takes to produce the side bars. I can’t swallow the cost of the Banks frames, so in a pinch when I quickly needed additional frames this year I experimented with attaching deep and medium Acorn frames together, trimming the frame ears off the bottom frame on the tablesaw and using a 5/8” wood spacer between the two to equal the 16” depth of my wood frames. I secured the frames together using both cynoacrylate glue and additionally by drilling 4 aligned 1/2” holes in bottom of top frame and top of bottom frame, then zip ties through each set of holes. The bees took to them immediately, drawing continuous comb top to bottom. I can knock one together in about 20-30 minutes. Stability of the frames has been excellent, no waggling or flexing at the join of the two frames. Of course I don’t hold them by the top bar parallel to the ground, but these type of deep frames are too heavy to do that anyway. When inspecting I just have one hand on top bar and the other on sidebar about 2” from bottom. Easy to lift and flip/rotate to see other side. As Jason mentioned, I nspections are much easier and quicker than going through 20 frames. Because of the odd size, not a great solution to large sideline beekeepers who rely on standard frame sizes, but great for a backyard beekeeper.
Great idea. Been using frames like these that first appeared on the Vino Farms website for two years. I sure hope money changed hands between the designer and Banks. Anyone who buys those side bars better wait for the small inserts that you show as prototypes, to deal with all the cross comb that the bees will build across the hive in the gap that lines up from one side to the other.
If we could alternate deep over medium one frame and then medium over deep on the adjacent frame, that may keep cross comb from forming as easily. What do you think?
Good stuff Jason. I've been using that super size frame format for 3 years. I have a few videos on them, including how I build them. Be sure you level the box side to side so they don't cross comb. Good luck with them.
Hey Jason I have a hive I run Banks frames. They make them in my hive one complete frame. It's awesome. But she is s super Queen. Just two of those frame with solid brood and I mean solid corner to corner is a massive amount of bees. I call her my wallbanger.
Jason, I wouldn’t put anything in the gap between the deep and medium foundations. Let the bees build what they need there such as drone and or worker comb.
I’d be hesitant to put a deep frame in the bottom trying to get this hive started. You’ll have to pull all your extra deep frames out to get the deeps out of the bottom. Maybe put your deeps on top with a box the size of a medium below, to keep your bees from building under the bottom of the frames that can be easily removed.
Too late! I added bees to this hive last week and just a couple days ago while mowing thought more about the setup, that when I realized what you just pointed out. That's gonna be fun to inspect. lol
Ya Mann lakes went to that higher shipping last year I think it was . There prices are crazy also . The only I get from them now I just something I can not get from somewhere else. Like you I made up My mine it better to deal with local an smaller business .
So how are we doing the same thing, without knowing it. I 3D printed some of those sidebars and actually just finished putting the frames together this evening. I am using my very first hive body and going to get that hive going. Good stuff Jason. .
Did you show Jim your design? The vino farm supersized frames seems good for bees. I’d be curious if you think they’d be heavy since they would primarily be brood frames.
Hey Brian, That is funny you were assembling large frames while I shared a video on them. Lol What's the chances. I am excited to see how they do. Are you using you Vevor hive also?
@michaelwest5596 The brood weighs way less than the honey frames, and yes I spoke with Jim about the frames. He did a series on how to make them from wood but that's not my skill. Nothing is on the market and other people want this too, so I'm leading the way in making the economics of it work.
I love the Banks frames. I also have a question for you. I am a 4th year beek and I only have been able to do splits/nucs successfully in the spring (I'm in southwest Virginia). Once the spring nectar flow is over I am unable to stop the robbing of my nucs that I start in the summer. I lose them every time. I did not notice robbing screens on your nucs. How do you keep the robbing under control?
That's not been my experience at all. I have a Hoover hive that is still in great shape after several years. Do you live in a damp area? Wonder why you had issues and I don't?
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I made those double frames from wood. Got the idea from Vino Farms
Forgot to add the fact I ran double deeps. So they actually add to the bottoms of these frames so they are huge.
Nice, I will have to give the Banks frames a try.
Cut up those old angle iron bed rails, weld or bolt those together to make stands.
I agree about supporting the local little guys. I have a place less than 20 minutes away and their prices are better than the big online stores.
Glad to see you trying out these frames. I've been tossing ideas around myself for something similar! Can't wait to see how it pans out for you.
I actually just heard back from Galena Farms today and they are looking into carrying them. They are going to report back once they decide. Fingers crossed!!
The big frames are cool. It will be interesting to see what I learn from using them.
Great video Jason and thanks for keeping us up to date with the latest! Those are some brave birds to set up a nest in the bee yard! Congrats on your awesome book!!
The birds and bees mix together well. Glad you like the book. Thanks!
I’d be interested in them. I considered building my own frames the same size as a deep and a medium for the brood chamber…then run supers on top.
I like this idea.
Glad to see that brood did well and fledged. 🐦 I just purchased your book. Looking forward to reading it.
Awesome, thank you!
Nice. I like big frames. I find using the Lazutin frames my bee's do better in winter. Mainly because no frame break to stop bees from moving up. And can leave 70 lbs of honey in hives for winter in the U.P. of Michigan. I use 17 frames in my Lazuting hive because that is what I get out of the 8 foot 2 by boards. I put a vertical skewer down the center and a small starter strip. The skewer helps keep the comb in the frame.
I’ve been running six hives with these extra-deep frames (made my own sidebars per Jim’s design @ Vino Farms) for 4 years now, along with foam insulation outer sleeves - 7 extra deep frames plus a spacer on one side in 8 frame boxes. Great over-wintering success - early build-up / lower winter honey consumption - in southern New England. My experience is the bees consistently and quickly build drone comb in the open space between the foundation sheets. Pretty convenient if part of your mite control is removing drone brood. Haven’t experienced any cross or bridge comb.
The one downside is the time it takes to produce the side bars. I can’t swallow the cost of the Banks frames, so in a pinch when I quickly needed additional frames this year I experimented with attaching deep and medium Acorn frames together, trimming the frame ears off the bottom frame on the tablesaw and using a 5/8” wood spacer between the two to equal the 16” depth of my wood frames. I secured the frames together using both cynoacrylate glue and additionally by drilling 4 aligned 1/2” holes in bottom of top frame and top of bottom frame, then zip ties through each set of holes. The bees took to them immediately, drawing continuous comb top to bottom. I can knock one together in about 20-30 minutes. Stability of the frames has been excellent, no waggling or flexing at the join of the two frames. Of course I don’t hold them by the top bar parallel to the ground, but these type of deep frames are too heavy to do that anyway.
When inspecting I just have one hand on top bar and the other on sidebar about 2” from bottom. Easy to lift and flip/rotate to see other side. As Jason mentioned, I nspections are much easier and quicker than going through 20 frames. Because of the odd size, not a great solution to large sideline beekeepers who rely on standard frame sizes, but great for a backyard beekeeper.
Someone looked at VINO farm double frames! Btw what’s new with Jim?
Yea, I love Jim's work. Had to do this myself. I'm glad to get it up and running so others can do it too
I too thought about Jim when I saw this. Hope he’s well.
@michaelwest5596 yeah hope he's just busy with success
Great idea. Been using frames like these that first appeared on the Vino Farms website for two years. I sure hope money changed hands between the designer and Banks. Anyone who buys those side bars better wait for the small inserts that you show as prototypes, to deal with all the cross comb that the bees will build across the hive in the gap that lines up from one side to the other.
If we could alternate deep over medium one frame and then medium over deep on the adjacent frame, that may keep cross comb from forming as easily. What do you think?
Once again a solution that was mentioned on the Vino page, tested and passed.
Good stuff Jason. I've been using that super size frame format for 3 years. I have a few videos on them, including how I build them. Be sure you level the box side to side so they don't cross comb. Good luck with them.
Hey Jason
I have a hive I run Banks frames. They make them in my hive one complete frame. It's awesome. But she is s super Queen. Just two of those frame with solid brood and I mean solid corner to corner is a massive amount of bees. I call her my wallbanger.
That's awesome!
Banks well good but if there spotted. Bastards take the lot need a tracking unit installed.
Jason, I wouldn’t put anything in the gap between the deep and medium foundations. Let the bees build what they need there such as drone and or worker comb.
Actually works better with the midsections
Chickadees make nest with moss
I’d be hesitant to put a deep frame in the bottom trying to get this hive started. You’ll have to pull all your extra deep frames out to get the deeps out of the bottom. Maybe put your deeps on top with a box the size of a medium below, to keep your bees from building under the bottom of the frames that can be easily removed.
Too late! I added bees to this hive last week and just a couple days ago while mowing thought more about the setup, that when I realized what you just pointed out. That's gonna be fun to inspect. lol
Ya Mann lakes went to that higher shipping last year I think it was . There prices are crazy also . The only I get from them now I just something I can not get from somewhere else. Like you I made up
My mine it better to deal with local an smaller business .
I would like to know where the real star are at ladybug and moose
They are on vacation lol
Where do you purchase your sleeveless vest and other protective bee clothing.
I had terrible queens in my packages this year, very disappointed.
Is our major flow over yet? Second year beekeeper couple hours east of you.
Yes. A lot of beekeepers are extracting now. The flow will slow down now.
So how are we doing the same thing, without knowing it. I 3D printed some of those sidebars and actually just finished putting the frames together this evening. I am using my very first hive body and going to get that hive going. Good stuff Jason. .
Did you show Jim your design? The vino farm supersized frames seems good for bees. I’d be curious if you think they’d be heavy since they would primarily be brood frames.
@@michaelwest5596 I downloaded the design from an open source.
Hey Brian, That is funny you were assembling large frames while I shared a video on them. Lol What's the chances.
I am excited to see how they do. Are you using you Vevor hive also?
@JCsBees I'm using my original hive, it has windows.
@michaelwest5596 The brood weighs way less than the honey frames, and yes I spoke with Jim about the frames. He did a series on how to make them from wood but that's not my skill. Nothing is on the market and other people want this too, so I'm leading the way in making the economics of it work.
I love the Banks frames. I also have a question for you. I am a 4th year beek and I only have been able to do splits/nucs successfully in the spring (I'm in southwest Virginia). Once the spring nectar flow is over I am unable to stop the robbing of my nucs that I start in the summer. I lose them every time. I did not notice robbing screens on your nucs. How do you keep the robbing under control?
That looks like a chickadee nest.
Defiantly not a wren. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching!
BUT DOES IT COME WITH A JAR OF FREE HONEY LOL 😂..
Do these frames fit into extractors?
No. These frames are for the brood box only.
neat but way too expensive
Price is not accessible to the average beekeeper. Just my opinion.
I get it, they do add up fast. Thanks for watching!
Galena sucks. Their hives fall apart in a season or two.
That's not been my experience at all. I have a Hoover hive that is still in great shape after several years. Do you live in a damp area? Wonder why you had issues and I don't?