Thanks for this video. It makes it easy to replace the cable. But the kit is quite expensive for me. I need some time before replacing it. Best regards
Fantastic video and the only one I ve seen actually showing the full procedure . I think I can do it myself . The close up of the tinning of the end wires was very good .Maybe the tinning of the black ground wire should have been shown too in close up . I m still not sure how exactly the ground wire stayed in place without soldering it or is the end stub screw in the thing which keeps it firmly on the inside . Thanks very much for your video . Other RUclips vids on "Rega Rb 300/ 250 etc have all been adverts .
Thanks for the comment. The tinning procedure of the ground wire is exactly the same. The clip cannot be soldered because this would mean heat the armtube to 350˚C or more..... It has to stay in place between the grooves of the thread. The kit used was from The Vinyl Source London (actually made near Glasgow).
Thank You , I will be using this outlet to buy my tonearm wire. I have 3 old Rega arm s a rb 250 with an Origin Live counterweight which is supposed to be an ubgrade .Origin Live say the rb250 is actually a better arm than the more expensive rb 300 so I think I will rewire the rb 250. It is has a broken wire coming out of the headshell end with only 3 wires present .Thanks again for an excellent video @@TheAudioSanityChannel-ym7ij
Hi I had my tech install a new wiring kit on my Rega rb250 but the tone arm sticks. It won’t freely go down on its own even when I put the counterweight all the way in. I have to gently coax it down but even then it’ll go back up and skip. It looks like the wires are bunched up near where the counterweight stub goes in. Could that be causing the issue? Just so I know when I go talk to him. I love your channel! Thanks! And if you want pics of what I mean I’m not sure how to share them here.
Hi If the wires are bouncing against the inside of the armtube is easy to check, remove the counterweight stub and have a visual check. It might depend on the quality of the rewiring kit, there are some nasty products out there made with cheap stiff wires unsuitable for tonearms.
@@TheAudioSanityChannel-ym7ijthanks for the quick reply it was the ISO Kinetik Kit with the litz wiring similar to yours. Do you have an email I can email you a video of what’s happening so you get a better idea of what’s going on?
Hi, thank you for the video. Is it needed to twist wires (in pairs and then those two pairs together)? I read different opinions on this and see that you don’t do this. Thanks:)
I don't know where the urban legend that you should twist the wires together comes from, but that's EXACTLY what you shouldn't do. Phono carts are balanced AC generators; twisting the wires will cause the following: 1) Serious increase in capacitance (a big no-no in modern MM carts) 2) Induce crosstalk between channels (if twisted ALL together) 3) Reduce dynamic due to variable crosstalk between two opposite phases of the same generator. 4) Increase spring effect inside the tonearm I rewired hundreds of tonearms, and I NEVER found factory-twisted wires; they know what they are doing. Stop following forums where people have zero knowledge of electronics.
Hi Yes, I hate to be on camera or next to it, and I'm unable to pronounce the letter 'R'. Apologies. Hope I'll improve in the next future. It's all about the 'ground' wire. Cheers Mark
Not strictly necessary, but here is what I found helpful when soldering the cartridge clips: Instead of clamping the clip directly with your "3rd hand", push the clip over the tip of a wooden toothpick and clamp that toothpick instead. The toothpick won't suck any heat from the soldering point, making soldering a little easier and faster.
Thanks for your comment; however, using the x-tra hands won't strain the cartridge tag that can get unnecessarily enlarged by the toothpick, and the soldering will take a second or two anyway with a 420-450˚C soldering iron. A good chunk of our trade comes from tonearm repair and upgrade and we rewired a few hundreds Rega tonearms in the last 5-6 years.
@@TheAudioSanityChannel-ym7ij I see your point, but didn't notice any danger of unnecessarily enlarging the clips, at least with the toothpicks I had at hand. My comment was not so much about the mechanical strain on the clips, but purely related to unwanted heat transfer. Most importantly, it was more targeted to hobbyists, not pros like yourself. I'm sure you're doing well what you're doing.
Thanks for a great tutorial. Ive tried soldering litz wire and find it really difficult but you make it look soooo easy. Keep up the good work.
Glad it helped!!
Thanks for this video. It makes it easy to replace the cable. But the kit is quite expensive for me. I need some time before replacing it. Best regards
Fantastic video and the only one I ve seen actually showing the full procedure . I think I can do it myself . The close up of the tinning of the end wires was very good .Maybe the tinning of the black ground wire should have been shown too in close up . I m still not sure how exactly the ground wire stayed in place without soldering it or is the end stub screw in the thing which keeps it firmly on the inside . Thanks very much for your video . Other RUclips vids on "Rega Rb 300/ 250 etc have all been adverts .
Thanks for the comment. The tinning procedure of the ground wire is exactly the same. The clip cannot be soldered because this would mean heat the armtube to 350˚C or more..... It has to stay in place between the grooves of the thread. The kit used was from The Vinyl Source London (actually made near Glasgow).
Thank You , I will be using this outlet to buy my tonearm wire. I have 3 old Rega arm s a rb 250 with an Origin Live counterweight which is supposed to be an ubgrade .Origin Live say the rb250 is actually a better arm than the more expensive rb 300 so I think I will rewire the rb 250. It is has a broken wire coming out of the headshell end with only 3 wires present .Thanks again for an excellent video @@TheAudioSanityChannel-ym7ij
Hi I had my tech install a new wiring kit on my Rega rb250 but the tone arm sticks. It won’t freely go down on its own even when I put the counterweight all the way in. I have to gently coax it down but even then it’ll go back up and skip.
It looks like the wires are bunched up near where the counterweight stub goes in. Could that be causing the issue? Just so I know when I go talk to him. I love your channel! Thanks! And if you want pics of what I mean I’m not sure how to share them here.
Hi
If the wires are bouncing against the inside of the armtube is easy to check, remove the counterweight stub and have a visual check.
It might depend on the quality of the rewiring kit, there are some nasty products out there made with cheap stiff wires unsuitable for tonearms.
@@TheAudioSanityChannel-ym7ijthanks for the quick reply it was the ISO Kinetik Kit with the litz wiring similar to yours.
Do you have an email I can email you a video of what’s happening so you get a better idea of what’s going on?
@@soupathand Sure, no problem, write to info@thevinylsource.co.uk. Please add a view of the inside of the armtube if possible.
Cheers
Mark
@@TheAudioSanityChannel-ym7ijthanks, just sent the email!
Hi, thank you for the video. Is it needed to twist wires (in pairs and then those two pairs together)? I read different opinions on this and see that you don’t do this. Thanks:)
I don't know where the urban legend that you should twist the wires together comes from, but that's EXACTLY what you shouldn't do.
Phono carts are balanced AC generators; twisting the wires will cause the following:
1) Serious increase in capacitance (a big no-no in modern MM carts)
2) Induce crosstalk between channels (if twisted ALL together)
3) Reduce dynamic due to variable crosstalk between two opposite phases of the same generator.
4) Increase spring effect inside the tonearm
I rewired hundreds of tonearms, and I NEVER found factory-twisted wires; they know what they are doing.
Stop following forums where people have zero knowledge of electronics.
thanks for the video. I was wondering what you say the black wire is. I could not understand it (Minute 7:57). I like your watch by the way 🙂
Hi
Yes, I hate to be on camera or next to it, and I'm unable to pronounce the letter 'R'. Apologies. Hope I'll improve in the next future.
It's all about the 'ground' wire.
Cheers
Mark
@@TheAudioSanityChannel-ym7ij cheers, I thought it must be Ground, yes. Don't worry! You are doing great! Keep up the good work!
Not strictly necessary, but here is what I found helpful when soldering the cartridge clips: Instead of clamping the clip directly with your "3rd hand", push the clip over the tip of a wooden toothpick and clamp that toothpick instead.
The toothpick won't suck any heat from the soldering point, making soldering a little easier and faster.
Thanks for your comment; however, using the x-tra hands won't strain the cartridge tag that can get unnecessarily enlarged by the toothpick, and the soldering will take a second or two anyway with a 420-450˚C soldering iron.
A good chunk of our trade comes from tonearm repair and upgrade and we rewired a few hundreds Rega tonearms in the last 5-6 years.
@@TheAudioSanityChannel-ym7ij I see your point, but didn't notice any danger of unnecessarily enlarging the clips, at least with the toothpicks I had at hand. My comment was not so much about the mechanical strain on the clips, but purely related to unwanted heat transfer. Most importantly, it was more targeted to hobbyists, not pros like yourself. I'm sure you're doing well what you're doing.