Potting A Steel Tool In A Resin Handle
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- In this video I cast a resin handle around a steel rod to make a custom sculpting tool.
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I'd love to see a video on over-moulding (ie: a rubberised grip onto a plastic handle). Great video as always! 😊
me too.
That seemed upside down to me. I would assume you'd make the handle right side up, and place the tool in from the top. 🤔
Excellent!😀 I really enjoy your videos. A remedial update on terminology with spru & funnel placement (why / objective / logic) would be cool. Quick easy video. PS I have to give it to you, you are pretty clever...
Great info, as usual!
Just asking... would it be less leak-prone and maybe easier to center to have it upside-down from this (steel rod is facing up)?
It depends but for best results plugs need allocation points not just flat piece of wood so it is kept in place or just have the tool be allocated in the silicone then you will have no leaks 🤙
The link in the description to Randi Rain's YT channel is broken, chief.
Great tips, per usual!
Thanks, I’ll look into it.
Love the video Rob, always an inspiration. Would you ever make a video divulging your sculpting wax recipe?
Yes, I’ll make a batch in a video soon.
Sir, every new video from you push me more and more. Thank you for that.
Love your Chanel Robert sooo informative ❤️ thank you x
Bob, I’m used to seeing your perfection. I must say it’s nice to the other side of the Master’s work. Your humility is refreshing. It shows even the Master gets a few “oops” every once in awhile. Great video my friend! Best regards, Richard
Thank you so much, Bob! Love your programs
Thanks Rob, long time fan here! I have a question about quick Urethane resins - I've been using Smoothcast 326 and 327 and since I live in a humid area they tend to get cloudy over time, do you have a recommendation on avoiding that? I want to have crystal clear castings but not wait more than 6 hours to set 😅.
For reference i cast very small things and always measure to the milligrams so the ratio shouldn't be the problem. When I open a new bottle it's always crystal clear for thw first few casts and then gets cloudier the more I open/close the bottle. I'm a loss lol . Thanks again!!
I can't remember the name, but there are gas products you can buy to shoot into the resin bottle and displace the air. I've heard that can help.
The previous comment is correct but can be expensive for clear castings : You can find epoxys that take about 3-4 just do some local research and ask your material suppliers.
As you are in a humid area avoid elastomers and Polyurethane Resin if possible, especially for clear castings opt for epoxy less moisture sensitive.
If you just care about speed and you mentioned small castings opt for UV resin as it is quite fast but you might need a light and the resin is more expensive 🤙
The stuff John mentioned is called Bloxygen. But TBH, it might be better to just use resins that come in smaller containers so you can use them up more quickly...
But I also agree with Chris - the humidity would be less of a problem if you used epoxy resin instead of urethane.
How do you 'guesstimate' the amount of resin to use, And do you use a lot of consumables {pipettes, mixing tubs etc} just to make up small batches?
Weigh the original and calculate density differences 🤙
Fisrt, I love your channel thanks for all the great advice. On this mold i notices that when you drilled the holes for the wood rod holder and the original model handle, you didn't define how to line them up to each other to center the rod, and since the rod holder was square it is easy to get it turned, some kind of registration between the wood rod holder and the rubber mold could be useful to make sure they line up each time as you put the mold and holder together. just a thought.
Correct but a external plug is not necessary for this in the first place that is why it leaked
I use 30 PSI (max 40), otherwise I notice the resin find its way into weak and imperfect places of the mold.
just my 2 cents
Yupo that pressure is fine ,I think the resin he is using is very moisture sensitive and there are better options out there if you just do some research 🤙
9:20 not gonna lie.. I smirked
That bubbling is crazy, i terminally reject from my life stuff that acts like that without pressure tricks. I used a thing called SG2000 for years, but the Easyflo series with its 60/90/120 editions were also super great and stable, even years into their lives. Then i bought some from Smooth-On, i was so excited to work with the big guns now. And it was a bubbly crap that does not adhere to itself at all, does not take primer well, stays sensitive to pushing with fingernails and becomes flexible from the heat of my palm. It was like 3 months old when i had to cast and that was all around, so i poured that, and the mold inflated from the bubbling like it was hot shaken beer inside.
None of that sounds good or correct bra, sounds like moisture contamination
@@ChrisLaStrange The first time around i blamed myself of course. The second, much worse experience was a year or two apart with an other batch. Never touching any of their resins ever again. I did nothing different then with the other products, in fact i'm always super paranoid both regarding my health, and the handling of these things.
would it have been easier to cast the handle, drill a centering hole, and then a bigger hole into it, but not as deep, bend the steel above where it sets in the centering hole deep in the handle, then push the steel into the centering hole and fill in the cavity with resin like you do when you patched the end of the handle, instead of casting it in one go? thanks
Correct much easier but needs to be done correctly, think the point of this was to not do that
great video!
Very nice to see a bit of your clean up process on screen!
industrial design = sideways bolt, afterwards attach
☺
What if you put the sprew next to the metal rod and cast it with the rod above the mold?
Can you try to fix a mold that needs silicone? Cut too much and now i have my mold a bit broken would love some help and would be interesting.
I've done similar in the past and yeah, I mix up a little bit of the same silicone used to make the damage mold and use a cheap nylon brush to brush on the fresh silicone over the cut or damaged area (taking care not to get any squeeze-out when I press the two sides of the surface together by brushing away any excess silicone). It doesn't look pretty when it's cured, but it seals up the mold just fine.
Some rubbers don't always bond together especially some made with auto release properties but it is worth a try using the same rubber. Make sure when gluing rubber that the silicone is fresh other wise brush with bezine then acetone before gluing with new rubber 🤙
@@outpost206 thank you soo much!!!
@@ChrisLaStrange thank you too!!!
Yay we're back to Friday videos like before!!!❤❤❤❤❤❤😊😊😊😊😊
I will try to maintain the Friday schedule as best I can. Often life gets in the way of fun, and I have other obligations that take me out of the studio.
03:38 Making it in the U shape would be easier. ☺️
Did you have to pressure pot the bubble patch as well, or is it small enough that foaming isnt an issue?
Definitely pressured it because it was from the same batch of resin,
Of course you make your own tools!
Just make it a one piece mold open at the top, and lower in the metal bit clamped into some rig that fits over the mother mold.
Like a drill press!
@@Pygar2 Except that you can insert a whatever squiggly ended rod... and there's no drilling... and no glue required... other than that, yes, completely.
@@Gary_Hun No, no, use the drill PRESS, brought down nice and straight, into the mold, no drilling. You'd have to keep the position, somehow, not too difficult, while the resin set.
@@Pygar2 Aha. Alright, but i was thinking with his usual methods. You cannot put a drill press in the vacuum chamber. Not only that, but not everybody has a drill press, and if one does, they will most likely use the gluing way. More snappy and accessible to all to have an upper separable bit to the mold that holds the part to be encapsulated.
You just mold it with the metal tool in place so it allocates into silicone before pour or you use a plug that can properly key . When doing this handle design the canot use the drill press as rig way over thinking it. With a open face mold its easy
Could you put a vent in a couple of places (usually at the thinnest part and also at the last place the resin goes) to allow air to escape
Correct that also increases rate of flow when added to the bottom but with that exit point placement is important
Randi's Robot Repairs are the highlight of many of my Saturday mornings.
love homemade tools
I've been thinking about making some sculpting tools (a rake and a loop) with a wooden dowel or old paint brush handle and some steel guitar string like I read about in a book.
Good video Sir ,much love. Some things not said or show :
If your encasing materials in resin yes bends like in the video on tool are of great aid, to improve upon it for heavier duty tools.
Sand the material with rough grits or use rotary tool to cut in groves for better friction and resin grip.
Just allocate the rod within the silicone and not an external plug as dis prevents leakage or mis alignment.
Any wax work Kan be replaced with normal clay for beginners.
There are resins(Polyurethane) that don't foam even in humid climates just enquire from your local material suppliers, avoid elastomers if you are a beginner but you dont need a pressure chamber🖤.
With tin castings add n vent from the bottom to the top pouring point but not attached to it this will greatly reduce risk of bubbles and increase rate of flow from resin and increase casting success 💪
EASIEST WAY :If you are a beginner cast your resin handle.
Then drill out a biger hole that your tool can fit into ,mix up the same resin pour into hole stick in tool and wipe away excess .Finish it as show in video when cured... 👌🔥🤙