I was a marine insulator for 30 years you did a pretty good job there, we used the closed cell foam extensively, however we didn't use the foil faced, we used a woven fiberglass cloth that was applied and sealed with a latex based sealer, this provided water resistance as well as a paintable surface, and a protective barrier to the foam, as the fiberglass cloth was rip and puncture resistant as well
Thanks for the feedback - good to know! The ducting finish is for ease, light reflectance, and because I didn't want a hard outer layer - the positive is safety from head impact, the negative is that it'll inevitably get bashed and need minor repairs.
This is awesome! I've had this idea for years of getting a boys like that, fitting it all out for an electric motor with solar and wind and go around the world!
I think it is much better for us to have a larger number of shorter videos, as many creators tend to burn out trying to do huge videos all the time and eventually stop alltogether.
@@gearyae If I understand it correctly though, the youtube algorythm favors longer videos unfortunately(at least 10 mins). I also like the short and sweetness of these, but for getting eyes on his project, he might be better served fusing 2 or three 'episodes' into 1 video.
Great project, I was an instructor on these for a while. Great to see one going on a deliberate adventure. Please keep posting once the expedition goes ahead!
I've said it before but ill say it again, I piloted this exact model of life craft (semi-submersible) and when it launches its a hoot, nose dive into the water from 50 feet high, it goes underwater then pops up with the propellor turning heading away from the launch chute, when we went along the river it was great fun, nice a smooth, no alarm bells, but when we cleared the peers at Tynemouth it was like a cork bobbing, they re so buoyant that they rise with the slightest swell, not advising you but for the future perhaps ballast might be a good idea, personally I would use underfloor water/fuel tanks, easy to fill and easy to empty, easier than rocks or pig iron (the usual ballast items of times past) I can't emphasize enough just how much they bob, even the most salty-sea-dog will want to empty their stomach, we had about 25 people on board, and half were heads in a carrier bag, the chosen receptacle for pizza topping :-(
Thanks for the reminder. There's a ballast episode, with more planned. Plus a plan to limit roll, but not losing the ice-friendly hull shape. Point taken on water ballast, but lead and steel is much more dense!
Suggestions. For heating you get a lot of heat from engine. If you have several fueltanks in the bottom that you isolate with polyuretane foam. When one tank is emty from diesel you use that tank as balasttank with water and let engineheat heat up that water and store heat that you pump up to the cabin. To stop the roling why not make a light keel under that is mounted with hinch so you can flip it up when needed and hold in position by flat arms on only one side to make it super strong and not give any risk for leek.
In cars, the heater is a separate smaller radiator inside the vehicle. A "thermostat housing" circulates water just through the engine and heater when it's cold, and only connects the radiator when the engine gets hot enough to need it. These parts are pretty standard, and it should be easy to make a system where you can use all of the engine's heat to warm your boat if necessary, with it automatically using the original cooling system if the engine gets too hot. I'd be glad to help you out with designs.
Looks good . fiberglass cloth over foam door insulation nice job. the wet you will be going through with your 4knot bobber. take and put a car heater in it you will be happy u did .I lived on a lifeboat for years sea worthy yes . dont put any thing on a shelf you don't want in the bilge .They sit nice at anchor .It dosen't mind 80,+ mph Gail's as I've sat out a few at anchor my self sausalito ca. matter of fact the water fronters used lifeboat hulls houseboats fishing salmon hering workboats sail ive known 2 different people sail off to Hawaii . one of the old guys bought 40 of them surplus lifeboats in the 60s I've seen some kool conversion ovor the years and yes your boat is newer and fiberglass they bob and roll very slow wet but very sea worthy good luck your friend louis from sausalito ca
I noticed LED lights and i know it is already done but may i suggest using 4000k colour temperature led it will make life more bearable under led lighting. You are doing a good job, keep up the great work!
Hey my new favourit RUclips bro, might I suggest that you buy really high CRI lamps for the spaces you will be awake in the most the quality of light can vastly improve mood and it looks like the lamps in your boat are quit low cri.
You are dealing with just the opposite of what we deal with. It the Gulf of Mexico it can get up to 50 or 60 Celsius inside these boats during the summer months. I am fascinated with the idea of making them warmer.
I'm sure its been talked to death and considered & reconsidered. but a couple cheap USB clip on fans could go a long way towards creating some white noise & air circulation. in an enclosed space like this it could help quite a bit to even out cold & hot areas or keep a breeze on an individual.
The people inside the boat are the heating. If it was filled to the max with its original capacity of people, it would probably be very comfortably warm inside even at artic regions. Every single passenger is a small heating unit.
I was thinking that you should put insulated shutters on the outside of the windows. If you put insulation on the inside of the windows, condensation will build up on the glass and be a constant source of dripping water. Cheers from Juneau Alaska, Greg Chaney
Thanks Greg. That's certainly an option. I have one internal pad built and am testing it. The plexiglass-facing side is very soft, so sits flush over the window and fixing bolts. This should mean there's almost no air from which moisture can condense from.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals My guess is that you have single pane windows. I don't know how much of a concern this is for your situation but unless you have an absolutely airtight seal, water vapor will condense against the glass. If it's really cold, the water will freeze, but inevitably you'll get water dripping below the windows. This will be easily manageable for short periods but if you plan on living in the boat for months, condensation will lead to corrosion, mold and mildew. I'm only mentioning this because I have spent a few winters in Alaska on boats and cabins and I have seen it happen.
@@airshipguys Yes it happens even here in the UK. Regular sponging is a standard boat routine, but as you say, sealing the sections off when insulated pads are in would be needed - and is likely to be my solution. TBC....
You could put water catchment channels below the windows with taps so you could use it for drinking water. That would also have the effect of dehumidifying the air in the boat.
Im Enjoying watching your series as I'd only seen one or two and I now see were you are going with this epic adventure .excellent job with that insulation I expect you are doing the old cardboard cut out first in the tricky corners then using that as a template. I still think it would be a idea to get some glass made up with with heater elements within the glass so if you had freezing sea spray or freezing rain or snow it would clear allowing the wiper to do its job in mega extreme conditions .as you wouldent want to be going outside to clear it on a rough sea .or you could pilot like sub's do by using sonar underwater and radar on top in silly conditions and to navigate at night .useful if you don't want to crash in to pack ice or a Baltic icebreaker I guess .I don't know but to ships send out a contestant personal radio call sign to alert others of their presence in a area of certain distance .You could patent that idea ..yours would constantly repeat Alun Alun Alun Alun in your Area within a three mile radius.all the time and as they get closer it gets louder.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Yes there is always that option .You would have to buy him a nice duffle coat.Iv never been polar myself .But nearly once 30yrs ago .My brother Got me a job as a seal clubber I was excited at the prospect at a DJ or bar work job at seals new cool ice nightclub on the Antarctic circle .Only after a long train journey when I met the other job candidates dockside did I realise it was real baby seal clubbing! Not Seal the then popular chart topper...My brother was a Bastard .he later tried to convince me to join the TAs as he said it was only a uk coastal home defence force that only worked on Tuesdays and Saturdays ?these were the days before the internet...Stay safe.
They would then protrude to far into the cabin. I can slot little foam pads into the intents if my thermal meter show excess heat loss, or if there's condensation.
You should test the adhesive before applying it. The adhesive will bond under normal temperatures. Most are not rated for sub zero temperatures. The adhesive may crack or release when subjected to lower temperatures.
Please paint it white or some color, go with epoxy paint if you wanna add some protection, I feel it would decrease your conversations with emergency vessels and enable people to continue transforming these life saving vehicles. My two cents, but you a great idea 👍 I wouldn't mind one myself. A sail would be cool if you could put a mast in it!
Hi Alex. Did the self-adhesive adhere OK to the shiny interior surface? I'm currently camped up in my van next to my lifeboat (cecilia) -3° here in Yorkshire. Nice little marina. And the owner is pleaaant and helpful. This is my home for the foreseeable. I'm fitting a diesel heater First project. I know it needs to be warm and dry for the insulation stage. Condensation isn't an issue, it freezes solid in current conditions, which is pretty amusing.... I obviously need to pump some heat into her. wish me luck. I'm on my way to living the dream. Lovely little marina in west Yorkshire to carry out the work, then it's on to the aire and calder. Spring at the very latest.
I wonder if you could have shot that interior with 2 part closed cell foam, like home insulation...saved lots of labor??? It would avoided any seams/air leaks.....and would add structural integrity...
Unless the 2 part foam was filling a structured void, it would have offered little strength. The shaping and skinning of the resulting surface would still have been labour intensive.
Perhaps something else to think about. As the bouncy is important. And you noted that the fuel and supply's would make up the weight the boat was designed for. Have you thought about a bladder in the haul that could be filled with sea water to offset the loss of weight as the fuel and supply's diminish?
I think it's more likely to use supplies from the 'top down', so although the weight of the boat will reduce, the CoG will actually lower. Water bladders into the awkward areas and shapes lower down in the boat would likely be more hassle than help, especially as water isn't very dense.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals maybe so, you definitely know your boat better than I do. I just have spent a great deal of time sailing in a small boat thousands of miles of shore. And that boat even under sail with a constant pull in a calculated Direction. When in the right combination of wind and swells. Nothing crazy just normal sailing conditions. The constant swaying back and forth was taxing on the body. And yes you should gave a grab or a wall to put a hand or to be able to lien against pretty much at every distance you can reach. Comfort is important to a point. As spending any length of time in the ocean is hard on the body. Your building a real cool vessel. In no way am I critiquing you. In fact bravo and your doing a quality job! Just throwing out some advice and its only worth what your paying me for it! 😂 i look forward to seeing you set sail and hearing about your adventures
Having closed cell sprayed in was an option, but would have taken significantly longer, as the complexity of the shapes and fittings would have meant hours and hours of masking and blanking first, then huge amounts of surface shaping and skinning.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Sounds like a flexible idea. If you remove the alternator and water pump, or just loosen them and remove the belts, then you can run the engines electrical needs off of the panels (and use an electrical water pump), doing so will save fuel and add propulsive power
@@AlexHibbertOriginals If you consider a large lithium battery bank, I have some experience in that dept. In a previous video there was some chatter regarding ballast weight and I thought a large lithium iron phosphate (LFP) bank would work great
I currently have a 24v Pure Carbon setup, but I'm considering a change to Lithiums. I do like the weight of the Pure Carbons, plus the fact you can 'abuse' them as much as Lithiums.
That's an interesting idea, but I would be concerned about a miscalculation in one area creating a very high fire risk. I was watching The Martian with my mom, and it was the part where he uses a radioactive core as a heater in the rover. My concern in real life would be how much exposure does that really give you? I had heard stories of people handling plutonium and other radioactive metals that gave heat or light, they ALL RESULTED in cancers. In regards to using resistance to heat the boat, it's a very interesting idea.
@@John-gp9qf It is a complex subject time distance and amount of radioactivity. Most of the real life accidents have been in the form of highly processed and concentrated samples. So really no need to worry. In the 50'sI think you could go and buy I think it was uranium ore bracelets for the health benefits! There have been researchers who have bravely given their own lives dying a horrible and painful death when they have made a slip and two pieces have accidently come in contact. Yet their colleges who were only a few meters further away lived
Perhaps ro generates great toy could install baseboards hot water heat registers throughout the boat run from engine heat from the closed loop cooling...
When the engine is running, I'm expecting cooling/venting to be the main aim, not heating. The latter is mainly for when the boat is stationary in cold regions.
He'll be a different shade of orange. I considered others, and only yellow seemed an alternative - and I didn't like that. Visually he'll be obviously heavily modified, and his AIS signature will specify him not being an in service lifeboat. Also, in Arctic waters there is relatively little shipping, so most crews will be aware of who's around.
If you need deeper insulation can you replace any of the handles with deeper reach ones?? I’m feeling like you might appreciate the heat more in the Arctic... Fascinating watching... glad to have got in at the early stages of your channel! When are you going to do an explanation of what you’re going to be doing in the arctic?
It's fairly easy to make foam pads that can velcro into nooks and crannies when needed. Easy to add, hard to remove when permanently fixed in. Yep, more reveals as time goes on. It's a little up in the air at the moment.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals nice one! Thanks for the reply! I just picked up a copy of your long haul book... looking forward to reading it! Good luck in your adventures!! 👍👊✌️🖖
@@AlexHibbertOriginals yeah, they are all liars. NASA = national swim station... They are trying to hide God. Seek Yahovah with all your heart.., and all the rest skal be given too you. Be blessed.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals sorry about that, sometimes I get to eager. I'm not used to people actually answering the comments, so I just went straight for the core. Not that I have commented on that many videos. But I do believe what I said is true. Are you a believer?
This video is old yet I would have reworked the latches so that you did not skimp on insulation. I think the handles/latches could have been reworked much better.
I know its too late, but why not block the windows off with a couple of panes of polycarbonate and an air gap? It should insulate about as well as foam and you'd never have to remove it.
I thought about creating 'double glazing;' but the advice I got was that retrofitting them can lead to condensation issues in the gap if the seal isn't perfect - and you wouldn't be able to just wipe it away.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals I know its not really the same but I worked on military thermal vision for a long time and we'd just purge them with nitrogen and put a desiccant pack on the inside in case the seal failed. There was also a little humidity indicating piece of paper so you'd know about humidity long before it got to where it was condensing. I guess from an earlier video you've got cameras on the outside though so you don't really need the windows. I wonder if you could put a camera and lights below the water level as well? Would be interesting anyway.
You can get larger models - over 10m. In terms of a major rebuild, you might start burning money and undermining the safety design features. A proper keel? In fact yes today I discussed it with the boatyard staff as an alternative/complement to ballast.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals I wasn't thinking about the cost, just a different hull design. I'm sure the hull isn't the most efficient design and fuel use is a factor in your project. How many NM do you estimate for the first part of the trip? What's the fuel consumption? Will you be resupplying up North or along the way? Or on returning?
Indeed the hull is designed for safety and not speed or comfort. The boat should end up with a c.2000nm range, which includes a need to return to safety under its own power. I haven't done an accurate fuel consump test yet, but approx 1nm/litre. There would be no at-sea resupply.
If Alan and/or crew come to any harm in the future, I can assure you it'll be due to either crew error, freak accident, or combinations of bad luck. It won't be the name painted on the side.
@John Lesich Can you do some foreign exchange for me pls. Makes me sad to see those boats rot but yeah, its not the boat that costs,its the fit out. Old saying, the 3 F's. If it floats , flies or fks, its cheaper to rent.
Had to read the video title a couple more times!.... thought I saw"insulting a lifeboat"... how and why would you do that? ,Then I re read it!.....silly me....
You might want to paint the foil in the top cabin black as the light reflection will cause severe blindness. I'm sure you've already done this and I'm just late to the party
Slow down your talking and explanations a bit. You can still cut it up alot to spread its longevity but slow down each section. It was over before I got to take it all in. Let's relax along with it with you
Why not just buy a real boat instead of all the money to transform this one? Or fly in to your destination and put up a ice shack until your done and fly out? Seems like a lot of effort for your cause?
Flying to and from such locations is often physically impossible, removes a layer of flexibility, and even when on time and spec can cost more than $10k per hour. 'Put up an ice shack' is also somewhat of a simplification!
![The Great Adhesive and Sealant Strength Test - (Lifeboat Conversion Ep5: Adhesive Test) [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Uf4GhpBcaNU/mqdefault.jpg)
![The Great Adhesive and Sealant Strength Test - (Lifeboat Conversion Ep5: Adhesive Test) [4K]](/img/tr.png)
![*SPECIAL* Lifeboat Conversion Ep20: Multi-day sea trials in the Thames Estuary, England [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nls6mFLzNe0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Lifeboat Conversion Ep22: Repairing the hull with filler and fibre glass [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jg2opSD5wRs/mqdefault.jpg)
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm surprised at how invested I am in this series in spire of not having anything to do with boats or water life. keep up the good work!
I was a marine insulator for 30 years you did a pretty good job there, we used the closed cell foam extensively, however we didn't use the foil faced, we used a woven fiberglass cloth that was applied and sealed with a latex based sealer, this provided water resistance as well as a paintable surface, and a protective barrier to the foam, as the fiberglass cloth was rip and puncture resistant as well
Thanks for the feedback - good to know! The ducting finish is for ease, light reflectance, and because I didn't want a hard outer layer - the positive is safety from head impact, the negative is that it'll inevitably get bashed and need minor repairs.
@@thundertmf Thanks for this - I'll check those out.
This is awesome! I've had this idea for years of getting a boys like that, fitting it all out for an electric motor with solar and wind and go around the world!
"Apollo 11" - my thought exactly! Brilliant work, brilliant video(s)!
Glad you liked it!
@@AlexHibbertOriginals I was thinking it needed to be a bit more golden for the apollo vibe. :-D
@@makingitwithnick Sigh - *reorders the entire boat's worth of insulation in gold, not silver*.
@@makingitwithnick It depends if you are going for the "Command module look" or the "Lunar module look" it's personal preferences I guess
4min videos are tooo short, I would love to see more 😃
I think it is much better for us to have a larger number of shorter videos, as many creators tend to burn out trying to do huge videos all the time and eventually stop alltogether.
@@gearyae If I understand it correctly though, the youtube algorythm favors longer videos unfortunately(at least 10 mins). I also like the short and sweetness of these, but for getting eyes on his project, he might be better served fusing 2 or three 'episodes' into 1 video.
@@presidentresident maybe just throw 5min of music at the end or something to spoof that nonsense.
I hear utube rewards u fr a 10 minute video. U should consider make them hit that sweet spot of 10 mins. 👍
They allow you to run mid-roll ads. Ads = more $.
I could watch this for more than 10 mins
A lot of people are more likely to watch a short video. I probly wouldn't have clicked on the first video had it been 10 minutes.
love looking back and rewatching this
Brilliant. Looking like a proper space ship
Great project, I was an instructor on these for a while. Great to see one going on a deliberate adventure. Please keep posting once the expedition goes ahead!
Thanks, will do!
It actually looks pretty cool! Well played.
absolutely loving this. i live in a self build camper so its great to see a different use
Glad you like it
@@AlexHibbertOriginals you've made my day. btw these videos youre making are perfect so keep it up. your content is great just make more! all the best
Just started watching your videos today. Very interesting and looking forward to the rest!
Thanks!
Great insulation job. And thanks for all the useful tips to anyone thinking of insulation tasks in their boat or caravan or camper/van etc.
Glad it was helpful!
The foam application looks well thought out and thorough to me, Alex. Nice work.
Thanks Mack
For the windows, add a thick piece of clear acrylic to act as a double glazed window, then you will have natural light and thermal protection.
As far as I'm aware, you'd need a gap and a perfect seal between glazing layers for that to work and not cause condensation nightmares in the gap.
The RUclips algorithm delivers! I’m enthralled, it must be the silvery insulation and red jacket.
You would need a lot less insulation if your expedition was to Jamaica plus the Rum is cheaper there!
well then you'd also be closer to Somalia.
we all know how that goes.
Insulation keeps the heat out too... esp if they use AC...
You realize somalia is nowhere near jamaica right?
@@kevinhubbard6258
you realize they can still go out that far right?
There are literally no reports of african pirates in the caribean. And i doubt their boats from what I've seen them have are up to the journey.
I wish there was more of these videos it is pretty cool to see
Your careful workmanship looks very good to my eye. Well done, sir. Eagerly watching your progress.
sweet, one of my favorite discoveries. yes looks like the inside of a space ship. make good canal boats apparently.
That's the look I'm going for
Coming along nicely!
I really liked your approach to the conversion of the boat. Very exciting work.
Glad you liked it!
One of those would make an awesome earth-sheltered tiny house/ rootcellar.
Now this is what you call a space ship! 😁😎
I've said it before but ill say it again, I piloted this exact model of life craft (semi-submersible) and when it launches its a hoot, nose dive into the water from 50 feet high, it goes underwater then pops up with the propellor turning heading away from the launch chute, when we went along the river it was great fun, nice a smooth, no alarm bells, but when we cleared the peers at Tynemouth it was like a cork bobbing, they re so buoyant that they rise with the slightest swell, not advising you but for the future perhaps ballast might be a good idea, personally I would use underfloor water/fuel tanks, easy to fill and easy to empty, easier than rocks or pig iron (the usual ballast items of times past)
I can't emphasize enough just how much they bob, even the most salty-sea-dog will want to empty their stomach, we had about 25 people on board, and half were heads in a carrier bag, the chosen receptacle for pizza topping :-(
Thanks for the reminder. There's a ballast episode, with more planned. Plus a plan to limit roll, but not losing the ice-friendly hull shape.
Point taken on water ballast, but lead and steel is much more dense!
Suggestions. For heating you get a lot of heat from engine. If you have several fueltanks in the bottom that you isolate with polyuretane foam. When one tank is emty from diesel you use that tank as balasttank with water and let engineheat heat up that water and store heat that you pump up to the cabin.
To stop the roling why not make a light keel under that is mounted with hinch so you can flip it up when needed and hold in position by flat arms on only one side to make it super strong and not give any risk for leek.
All suggestions welcome - thanks
In cars, the heater is a separate smaller radiator inside the vehicle. A "thermostat housing" circulates water just through the engine and heater when it's cold, and only connects the radiator when the engine gets hot enough to need it.
These parts are pretty standard, and it should be easy to make a system where you can use all of the engine's heat to warm your boat if necessary, with it automatically using the original cooling system if the engine gets too hot.
I'd be glad to help you out with designs.
The boat will be mostly engine off for most of its time in the extreme cold, so the main heating system is separate.
Cool video
You're living my dream... one day I pray to do the same. Ha!
Beautiful work. Looks like it belongs on the ISS.
Exactly what I'm going for!
I'm enjoying the hilarity of "Being inside Alan" 😂
Alan isn't.
Looks good . fiberglass cloth over foam door insulation nice job. the wet you will be going through with your 4knot bobber. take and put a car heater in it you will be happy u did .I lived on a lifeboat for years sea worthy yes . dont put any thing on a shelf you don't want in the bilge .They sit nice at anchor .It dosen't mind 80,+ mph Gail's as I've sat out a few at anchor my self sausalito ca. matter of fact the water fronters used lifeboat hulls houseboats fishing salmon hering workboats sail ive known 2 different people sail off to Hawaii . one of the old guys bought 40 of them surplus lifeboats in the 60s I've seen some kool conversion ovor the years and yes your boat is newer and fiberglass they bob and roll very slow wet but very sea worthy good luck your friend louis from sausalito ca
Thanks Louie - quite the story!
thanks!
I noticed LED lights and i know it is already done but may i suggest using 4000k colour temperature led it will make life more bearable under led lighting. You are doing a good job, keep up the great work!
I have strips of both warm and cool LEDs up. Will detail in an electrics video.
perfect for my short attention span !
I just posted an hour-long one.....
Hey my new favourit RUclips bro, might I suggest that you buy really high CRI lamps for the spaces you will be awake in the most the quality of light can vastly improve mood and it looks like the lamps in your boat are quit low cri.
You are dealing with just the opposite of what we deal with.
It the Gulf of Mexico it can get up to 50 or 60 Celsius inside these boats during the summer months.
I am fascinated with the idea of making them warmer.
+60 C. Rather you than me!
You could make Curtains around the Doors and Windows from Down Sleeping Bags.
Looks like space station already😊
That's the idea!
I'm sure its been talked to death and considered & reconsidered. but a couple cheap USB clip on fans could go a long way towards creating some white noise & air circulation. in an enclosed space like this it could help quite a bit to even out cold & hot areas or keep a breeze on an individual.
There's a full size rectangular duct installed on the deck head. I just need to attach a fan and exit ports.
Looking Awesome... I live off grid, and functionality is superior to fashion...
If you want a great adhesive/ sealant try CT1 we use it in the plumbing industry and it's awesome
Check out my adhesives test. It did ok - not spectacular.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals thanks Alex, good luck with the whole venture and keep the post going
Better work then my old HVAC boss
I'll take that! Unless your boss was an utter incompetent.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals that he was ;)
The people inside the boat are the heating. If it was filled to the max with its original capacity of people, it would probably be very comfortably warm inside even at artic regions. Every single passenger is a small heating unit.
thank goodness this is 4k because i watched at 360p
You lucky thing. My face in 4K is horrifying.
I was thinking that you should put insulated shutters on the outside of the windows. If you put insulation on the inside of the windows, condensation will build up on the glass and be a constant source of dripping water.
Cheers from Juneau Alaska,
Greg Chaney
Thanks Greg. That's certainly an option. I have one internal pad built and am testing it. The plexiglass-facing side is very soft, so sits flush over the window and fixing bolts. This should mean there's almost no air from which moisture can condense from.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals My guess is that you have single pane windows. I don't know how much of a concern this is for your situation but unless you have an absolutely airtight seal, water vapor will condense against the glass. If it's really cold, the water will freeze, but inevitably you'll get water dripping below the windows. This will be easily manageable for short periods but if you plan on living in the boat for months, condensation will lead to corrosion, mold and mildew. I'm only mentioning this because I have spent a few winters in Alaska on boats and cabins and I have seen it happen.
@@airshipguys Yes it happens even here in the UK. Regular sponging is a standard boat routine, but as you say, sealing the sections off when insulated pads are in would be needed - and is likely to be my solution. TBC....
You could put water catchment channels below the windows with taps so you could use it for drinking water. That would also have the effect of dehumidifying the air in the boat.
Cool videos!
Glad you like them!
Im Enjoying watching your series as I'd only seen one or two and I now see were you are going with this epic adventure .excellent job with that insulation I expect you are doing the old cardboard cut out first in the tricky corners then using that as a template. I still think it would be a idea to get some glass made up with with heater elements within the glass so if you had freezing sea spray or freezing rain or snow it would clear allowing the wiper to do its job in mega extreme conditions .as you wouldent want to be going outside to clear it on a rough sea .or you could pilot like sub's do by using sonar underwater and radar on top in silly conditions and to navigate at night .useful if you don't want to crash in to pack ice or a Baltic icebreaker I guess .I don't know but to ships send out a contestant personal radio call sign to alert others of their presence in a area of certain distance .You could patent that idea ..yours would constantly repeat Alun Alun Alun Alun in your Area within a three mile radius.all the time and as they get closer it gets louder.
I may employ the prairie dog to sit on deck with a loudhailer, saying 'Alan, Alan, Alan....'
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Yes there is always that option .You would have to buy him a nice duffle coat.Iv never been polar myself .But nearly once 30yrs ago .My brother Got me a job as a seal clubber I was excited at the prospect at a DJ or bar work job at seals new cool ice nightclub on the Antarctic circle .Only after a long train journey when I met the other job candidates dockside did I realise it was real baby seal clubbing! Not Seal the then popular chart topper...My brother was a Bastard .he later tried to convince me to join the TAs as he said it was only a uk coastal home defence force that only worked on Tuesdays and Saturdays ?these were the days before the internet...Stay safe.
I wonder if such a boat would make a nice but small house boat.
Nice
Oddly satisfying... 🧐
Really interesting!! Did you consider extending the door handle spindles to get more space behind for insulation and gloves?
They would then protrude to far into the cabin. I can slot little foam pads into the intents if my thermal meter show excess heat loss, or if there's condensation.
You should test the adhesive before applying it. The adhesive will bond under normal temperatures. Most are not rated for sub zero temperatures. The adhesive may crack or release when subjected to lower temperatures.
Please paint it white or some color, go with epoxy paint if you wanna add some protection, I feel it would decrease your conversations with emergency vessels and enable people to continue transforming these life saving vehicles. My two cents, but you a great idea 👍 I wouldn't mind one myself. A sail would be cool if you could put a mast in it!
Really impressing. Did you also watch out for a inner layer of flexible glass wool, rock wool, styropor balls/pellets or something like that?
Yes I looked at the various options on the market.
Hi Alex. Did the self-adhesive adhere OK to the shiny interior surface? I'm currently camped up in my van next to my lifeboat (cecilia) -3° here in Yorkshire. Nice little marina. And the owner is pleaaant and helpful. This is my home for the foreseeable. I'm fitting a diesel heater First project. I know it needs to be warm and dry for the insulation stage. Condensation isn't an issue, it freezes solid in current conditions, which is pretty amusing.... I obviously need to pump some heat into her. wish me luck. I'm on my way to living the dream. Lovely little marina in west Yorkshire to carry out the work, then it's on to the aire and calder. Spring at the very latest.
Sounds good! Yes the insulation stuck fine to the waxy gelcoat. I just cleaned with acetone and used a quality hybrid mastic.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals brilliant thanks 👍
I wonder if you could have shot that interior with 2 part closed cell foam, like home insulation...saved lots of labor??? It would avoided any seams/air leaks.....and would add structural integrity...
Unless the 2 part foam was filling a structured void, it would have offered little strength. The shaping and skinning of the resulting surface would still have been labour intensive.
Perhaps something else to think about. As the bouncy is important. And you noted that the fuel and supply's would make up the weight the boat was designed for. Have you thought about a bladder in the haul that could be filled with sea water to offset the loss of weight as the fuel and supply's diminish?
I think it's more likely to use supplies from the 'top down', so although the weight of the boat will reduce, the CoG will actually lower. Water bladders into the awkward areas and shapes lower down in the boat would likely be more hassle than help, especially as water isn't very dense.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals maybe so, you definitely know your boat better than I do. I just have spent a great deal of time sailing in a small boat thousands of miles of shore. And that boat even under sail with a constant pull in a calculated Direction. When in the right combination of wind and swells. Nothing crazy just normal sailing conditions. The constant swaying back and forth was taxing on the body. And yes you should gave a grab or a wall to put a hand or to be able to lien against pretty much at every distance you can reach. Comfort is important to a point. As spending any length of time in the ocean is hard on the body. Your building a real cool vessel. In no way am I critiquing you. In fact bravo and your doing a quality job! Just throwing out some advice and its only worth what your paying me for it! 😂 i look forward to seeing you set sail and hearing about your adventures
Your input is much appreciated! I assure you I do read comments in the spirit in which they're posted.
I'd highly recommend spray foam.
Having closed cell sprayed in was an option, but would have taken significantly longer, as the complexity of the shapes and fittings would have meant hours and hours of masking and blanking first, then huge amounts of surface shaping and skinning.
Solar panels for electricity and/or electric motor (backup/aux/reserve)? You could cover that in 300 watt panels and throw lightning.
Electrics I'll cover across many videos. But originally it was a winter project so wind/generator only. Solar I'll now be building in.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Sounds like a flexible idea. If you remove the alternator and water pump, or just loosen them and remove the belts, then you can run the engines electrical needs off of the panels (and use an electrical water pump), doing so will save fuel and add propulsive power
Why didn't you use spray on two part closed cell foam.
It would have required similar labour, with all the shaping and skinning needed after the spray.
Great progress! Perhaps you would consider resistive wire to heat the entire boat as a thermal mass?
The boat is going to be heated by a diesel Refleks heater, which uses the same fuel source as the engine - so no long-term electric heating.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals If you consider a large lithium battery bank, I have some experience in that dept.
In a previous video there was some chatter regarding ballast weight and I thought a large lithium iron phosphate (LFP) bank would work great
I currently have a 24v Pure Carbon setup, but I'm considering a change to Lithiums. I do like the weight of the Pure Carbons, plus the fact you can 'abuse' them as much as Lithiums.
That's an interesting idea, but I would be concerned about a miscalculation in one area creating a very high fire risk.
I was watching The Martian with my mom, and it was the part where he uses a radioactive core as a heater in the rover.
My concern in real life would be how much exposure does that really give you? I had heard stories of people handling plutonium and other radioactive metals that gave heat or light, they ALL RESULTED in cancers.
In regards to using resistance to heat the boat, it's a very interesting idea.
@@John-gp9qf It is a complex subject time distance and amount of radioactivity. Most of the real life accidents have been in the form of highly processed and concentrated samples. So really no need to worry. In the 50'sI think you could go and buy I think it was uranium ore bracelets for the health benefits!
There have been researchers who have bravely given their own lives dying a horrible and painful death when they have made a slip and two pieces have accidently come in contact. Yet their colleges who were only a few meters further away lived
What you guys up to?
ask Wintergatan for music. it's great and in some way fits to the arctic conditions 😅
also, i can't help it. i always read "lifeboat insulting" 🙈
Please don't insult Alan. He doesn't deserve it.
Perhaps ro generates great toy could install baseboards hot water heat registers throughout the boat run from engine heat from the closed loop cooling...
When the engine is running, I'm expecting cooling/venting to be the main aim, not heating. The latter is mainly for when the boat is stationary in cold regions.
how are you gonna prevent other ships calling the coast guard because they se a lifeboat ?
He'll be a different shade of orange. I considered others, and only yellow seemed an alternative - and I didn't like that. Visually he'll be obviously heavily modified, and his AIS signature will specify him not being an in service lifeboat. Also, in Arctic waters there is relatively little shipping, so most crews will be aware of who's around.
If you need deeper insulation can you replace any of the handles with deeper reach ones?? I’m feeling like you might appreciate the heat more in the Arctic...
Fascinating watching... glad to have got in at the early stages of your channel! When are you going to do an explanation of what you’re going to be doing in the arctic?
It's fairly easy to make foam pads that can velcro into nooks and crannies when needed. Easy to add, hard to remove when permanently fixed in.
Yep, more reveals as time goes on. It's a little up in the air at the moment.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals nice one! Thanks for the reply! I just picked up a copy of your long haul book... looking forward to reading it! Good luck in your adventures!! 👍👊✌️🖖
Ah that's kind. Thanks.
Based on your 4 layers foam, aprox what os R value?
A good question - one I don't have the answer to.
How much this life boat indian price
That says allot about Apollo 11
To be fair it's only in theory - if you look at internal photos of the Apollos they look like the inside of a small budget hotel room.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals yeah, they are all liars. NASA = national swim station... They are trying to hide God.
Seek Yahovah with all your heart.., and all the rest skal be given too you. Be blessed.
That escalated fast.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals sorry about that, sometimes I get to eager. I'm not used to people actually answering the comments, so I just went straight for the core. Not that I have commented on that many videos. But I do believe what I said is true. Are you a believer?
@@AlexHibbertOriginals well, anyways, sorry for jumping you like that.
I think the wrinkles look really cool
Character eh.
This video is old yet I would have reworked the latches so that you did not skimp on insulation. I think the handles/latches could have been reworked much better.
Pads of additional insulation can easier be placed in the intents, should there ever be condensation there.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Cool. I am watching all of the videos now. I really like this project so far. Its pretty good. Either way looks really good.
Thanks William
Additional windows would be nice. Otherwise you might as well put Allen on rockers in a big fridge. The experience will be similar.
They would compromise the inherent safety in the shell. Certainly, some cruisers have installed beautiful large windows and skylights.
If you make it multihull, etc. trimaran, it won't roll that much.
Floats might be extractable or able to lift
Outriggers are something I've mulled - but it would be a simply giant redesign and undertaking.
How much was the initial cost?
In the pinned comment in ep1 I give a rough guide.
Couldnt you tow a second life boat behind with extra stuff in it?
You could tow a third too. But it wouldn't be a very good idea!
I know its too late, but why not block the windows off with a couple of panes of polycarbonate and an air gap? It should insulate about as well as foam and you'd never have to remove it.
I thought about creating 'double glazing;' but the advice I got was that retrofitting them can lead to condensation issues in the gap if the seal isn't perfect - and you wouldn't be able to just wipe it away.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals I know its not really the same but I worked on military thermal vision for a long time and we'd just purge them with nitrogen and put a desiccant pack on the inside in case the seal failed. There was also a little humidity indicating piece of paper so you'd know about humidity long before it got to where it was condensing.
I guess from an earlier video you've got cameras on the outside though so you don't really need the windows. I wonder if you could put a camera and lights below the water level as well? Would be interesting anyway.
Has anyone taken one of these and built a longer hull onto it, with a keel, and more stern/bow space?
You can get larger models - over 10m. In terms of a major rebuild, you might start burning money and undermining the safety design features. A proper keel? In fact yes today I discussed it with the boatyard staff as an alternative/complement to ballast.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals I wasn't thinking about the cost, just a different hull design. I'm sure the hull isn't the most efficient design and fuel use is a factor in your project.
How many NM do you estimate for the first part of the trip?
What's the fuel consumption?
Will you be resupplying up North or along the way? Or on returning?
Indeed the hull is designed for safety and not speed or comfort. The boat should end up with a c.2000nm range, which includes a need to return to safety under its own power. I haven't done an accurate fuel consump test yet, but approx 1nm/litre. There would be no at-sea resupply.
How about 2 pack spray foam 😊
It would take hours to mask off all the areas to be avoided, would need to be shaved into shape, and then still needs skinning.
You should to buy aluthermo for this project.
Since you clearly work for them, consider yourself lucky I let this post remain. 😜
I would say the Mir
Good to have a more international spin.
You should of never named it that, seriously, the boat is doomed. But hey! Great videos! Really enjoying them so far! but really. The boat is doomed
If Alan and/or crew come to any harm in the future, I can assure you it'll be due to either crew error, freak accident, or combinations of bad luck. It won't be the name painted on the side.
Kinda looks like an space capsule
I should have watched the complete video before commenting
Pleased it was the comparison that came to mind.
What is the cost in U S $???
@John Lesich Can you do some foreign exchange for me pls. Makes me sad to see those boats rot but yeah, its not the boat that costs,its the fit out. Old saying, the 3 F's. If it floats , flies or fks, its cheaper to rent.
I think those wrinkles make it look cooler, like a spaceship or something
Interstellar, characterful, industrial chic. Yes.
ac - heat? air circulation
YOU SHOULD GET A CHINESE DEISEL HEATER THEY ARE GREAT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
When your finished with it can I have it for going on cannals, would it be ok as can also boat Please
Had to read the video title a couple more times!.... thought I saw"insulting a lifeboat"... how and why would you do that? ,Then I re read it!.....silly me....
Only when Alan gets on my nerves.
You might want to paint the foil in the top cabin black as the light reflection will cause severe blindness. I'm sure you've already done this and I'm just late to the party
يبحر لو حده
My diary is now blocked
Slow down your talking and explanations a bit. You can still cut it up alot to spread its longevity but slow down each section. It was over before I got to take it all in. Let's relax along with it with you
Why not just buy a real boat instead of all the money to transform this one? Or fly in to your destination and put up a ice shack until your done and fly out? Seems like a lot of effort for your cause?
Flying to and from such locations is often physically impossible, removes a layer of flexibility, and even when on time and spec can cost more than $10k per hour. 'Put up an ice shack' is also somewhat of a simplification!
Mylar emergency blankets are cheap and work well for insulation