When I'm trying to level the surface when there is an overlapping edge, I need to feather that edge away to make a smooth surface. I go ahead and sand into the glass. It has to be done to get a nice surface. Scraping will certainly work, but it probably won't produce a really smooth surface. If I sand into the glass on the body of the boat, away from any edges, I just stop sanding even if there are shiny spots in the immediate vicinity which need sanding. Unlike wood, where it is impossible to add more wood, on the fiberglass and epoxy it is easy to add more epoxy to bring up low spots. In this case, I stop sanding, but scuff up the surface with a scouring pad to de-gloss, and then count on the fill coat to fill in and level the surface. Note that I was planning on doing a fill coat anyway. I prefer not having any glass exposed after sanding because exposed glass can produce print-through into the varnish. Much less so if it is buried in some epoxy. Since doing this video the boat has been sitting and curing. I will do the final sanding immediately before applying the finish.
@@NickSchade , applying peel ply on the extra fabric layers (@ 9:25)can help mitigate the unevenness. Composite homebuilt aircraft use this technique to fair overlapping plies, especially wing structures. Homebuilt aircraft have to be much more careful about sanding into layups as that can affect the structural integrity of the airframe (see this for an example ruclips.net/video/p9GTYsNBiaE/видео.html). And while polyester peel ply is great for creating secondary bonding surfaces, nylon peel ply can provide a more finish-ready surface. PS: I thoroughly enjoy all your build videos!
Thanks, Nick. Fantastic videos as usual. I'm working on the Great Auk. Some place, I saw where you poured epoxy into the ends of the boat so you could drill through and put a pull rope on. I still have the boat in two pieces, but I thought I would add a thickened Schmoots radius in the inside of the ends. When I did this, it got really hot and started smoking. It doesn't look like anything was damaged, but it gave me a scare. I can't imagine pouring a bunch of epoxy in the ends - it seems it would REALLY get hot. I haven't seen you do this yet on this boat. Did I miss it or do you have another method now. Is the heat something to be concerned about. Thanks.
This build did not include an end pour. If you watch my Petrel Play build you will see one of the ways I make the end pour. Epoxy can heat up while curing. If I do the traditional endpour, I stick the end of the boat in a bucket of water to help control the heat. If you do this you must make sure the seams at the end are completely sealed.
@@NickSchade Thanks, Nick. Very interesting. I think I can tip this boat's hull while it is still not connected to the deck and get enough of a pour in there so I can safely get the pull rope through. I would be able to put the end of the boat in a tub of water for this operation. What about hatches and bulkheads. It doesn't look as if you put them on this build either. Your boat is unbelievably beautiful.
Merci Nick pour toutes les petites astuces, notamment le ponçage dans le rebord d'hiloire.
Love the shine, but my favorite this episode was seeing how you made clever use of a bracket to sand the coaming and riser.
I guess I am kinda randomly asking but do anybody know a good website to stream new movies online ?
@Lewis Jake Flixportal xD
@Arturo Skylar Thanks, I went there and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :) I appreciate it!
@Lewis Jake Happy to help :)
Great advise on dealing with the weave, when it appears ! I've had my best luck scraping the bias strips, as opposed to sanding.
When I'm trying to level the surface when there is an overlapping edge, I need to feather that edge away to make a smooth surface. I go ahead and sand into the glass. It has to be done to get a nice surface. Scraping will certainly work, but it probably won't produce a really smooth surface.
If I sand into the glass on the body of the boat, away from any edges, I just stop sanding even if there are shiny spots in the immediate vicinity which need sanding. Unlike wood, where it is impossible to add more wood, on the fiberglass and epoxy it is easy to add more epoxy to bring up low spots.
In this case, I stop sanding, but scuff up the surface with a scouring pad to de-gloss, and then count on the fill coat to fill in and level the surface.
Note that I was planning on doing a fill coat anyway. I prefer not having any glass exposed after sanding because exposed glass can produce print-through into the varnish. Much less so if it is buried in some epoxy.
Since doing this video the boat has been sitting and curing. I will do the final sanding immediately before applying the finish.
@@NickSchade , applying peel ply on the extra fabric layers (@ 9:25)can help mitigate the unevenness. Composite homebuilt aircraft use this technique to fair overlapping plies, especially wing structures. Homebuilt aircraft have to be much more careful about sanding into layups as that can affect the structural integrity of the airframe (see this for an example ruclips.net/video/p9GTYsNBiaE/видео.html). And while polyester peel ply is great for creating secondary bonding surfaces, nylon peel ply can provide a more finish-ready surface.
PS: I thoroughly enjoy all your build videos!
Bro, go buy a bicycle innertube and slit in long ways then cut it in half. You can put it on your V blocks to keep stuff from sliding all over so much
What was the music during the sanding, up to about 6 minute mark, I liked it!
Thanks, Nick. Fantastic videos as usual. I'm working on the Great Auk. Some place, I saw where you poured epoxy into the ends of the boat so you could drill through and put a pull rope on. I still have the boat in two pieces, but I thought I would add a thickened Schmoots radius in the inside of the ends. When I did this, it got really hot and started smoking. It doesn't look like anything was damaged, but it gave me a scare. I can't imagine pouring a bunch of epoxy in the ends - it seems it would REALLY get hot. I haven't seen you do this yet on this boat. Did I miss it or do you have another method now. Is the heat something to be concerned about. Thanks.
This build did not include an end pour. If you watch my Petrel Play build you will see one of the ways I make the end pour. Epoxy can heat up while curing. If I do the traditional endpour, I stick the end of the boat in a bucket of water to help control the heat. If you do this you must make sure the seams at the end are completely sealed.
@@NickSchade Thanks, Nick. Very interesting. I think I can tip this boat's hull while it is still not connected to the deck and get enough of a pour in there so I can safely get the pull rope through. I would be able to put the end of the boat in a tub of water for this operation. What about hatches and bulkheads. It doesn't look as if you put them on this build either. Your boat is unbelievably beautiful.
Excellent as usual!!! Question, was that last fill coat straight epoxie or did you have cabasol added?
I do it both ways depending on my mood. In this case it was straight.
how much epoxy is required to build one kayak?
What do you use for the fill coat? just epoxy or do you thicken it a little
It is just straight epoxy
Nick, how many sanding pads did you go thru on that evening sanding on your random orbit?
This rough sanding doesn't require that many disks, may 4 to 6.
Tell me please, but the coating will be varnish? Or is this the final stage?
This is not the final finish, I will be coating it with varnish or another clear coat for Ultra Violet protection.
Tell me please, what is the density of fiberglass you used in this project?
I use 4 ounce/yard^2 [135 gm/m^2]
why don't you use the tape with the plastic
:-) OK.