Darrin, I just want to thank you for all the videos you have posted. I have learned so much from you. I am almost finished restoring my 71 Super Beetle. Building the engine now. Thanks again.
+vwdarrin thank you for the great video, it was a wonderful refresher for me. I had a stroke in '09 so this has brought back memories of building VW engines from the 80's that were forgotten. Thank you again! 👍 👍
Thank you on the video. I have a 1600 VW engine on my trike. My generator alternator went while on a run to Daytona Bike Week. I like how you did step by step. I lost a good friend who help me build my trike. Thanks again for making the video.
Before I left to go overseas I was building a VW motor and I ran into the exact problem you were describing with the crank not turning. I thought the guy sold me the wrong size bearings, but now I'll check the dowel pins when I get back. Thanks for the info!
The 4 red seals not the latter models are rocker arm seals for a 40 hp engine.. 4 late model , 2 black for early model and the 4 round are rocker arm seals... good job I enjoy watching how other people work, been working on them since 72 and still working on them at my house.. im 66 and still love it
I would buy the Bentley or Haynes manual, research online and just watch videos from this guy! the VW flat4 motor is one of the simplest motors to work on, so it's a good place to start. Good luck!
Thanks for this post, I like all the tips you have for a good build, lots of stuff that others either forget or assume that everyone watching knows...keep the details coming for us newbie's...
Good to see this on video. Well done sir. ...one comment, if I may... your torquing procedure is clearly resulting in overtorque... You should not push past the click, as you did on every nut you torqued. Your 27 ft lbs probably wound up closer to 35 or so.
I was also taught to never touch your grimy finger to a bearing surface. I must be waay old school but, it is a practice that I always follow to this day...and I'm 55.
I was taught the same thing about torquing Mitch. Then again I did 32 years in aviation,, not Vee Dubs. Dry torque vs. using a specified lube is also critical to correct final torque values.
Darrin....this video rocks but you always say "guys" don't forget about all the female high performance junkies out there! :-) Thanks for the awesome video-can't wait to build my first turbo VW
I'm doing the same thing in school this semester. im building up a vw 1600 with forged rods and aa alluminum pistons. then I'm going to turbo it and add water meth injection for some lower egts and so I don't melt the pistons. I'd also like to machine the case to accept oil squirters that cool the bottoms of the pistons
I doubt you'll need to do all that. You won't really be running high enough boost to have to worry about egts and your Pistons. It's a little vw motor not a diesel. And if you're running so much boost and fuel to need piston oil coolers you might want to consider forged steel Pistons. Even tho they don't last
Hi Darrin. I know you're not well at the moment. But as there are alot of people out there that want to build stroker motors, I thought you might be able to make a how to build your bulletproof 2110cc engine. So far I was looking at buying an engine kit from an online store, then today, I just happen to go to the scat website, and lo and behold they have the FORGED engine kit with EVERYTHING, cylinder heads, valve gear, everything. It has a good forged crank that hs alot more meat on the outside of the big ends, unlike the empi? one you show us in this vid. PLUS it's about $2000 cheaper than buying it from online shops like cb performance, 1aircooled.net etc etc.All the reciprocating components are forged. Well they come with heads and valves, but no rocker gear, but you can't expect everything for such an attractive price. I guess I should try and find those Berg rockers you recommend secondhand somewhere. And With the gearbox.. Am I better off just getting a changeover superstreet unit from 1aircooled.net instead of spending the money rebuilding my one? and what clutch should I run? Anyway, thanks for any help you can give I know your back is really giving you grief, I appreciated any time you can take out to answer any of my questions man. More power to you, and keep the informative vids coming!
shoominati23 the SCAT kit doesn’t have every last item needed. Things like bearing dowel pins, oil sump cover, plugs, flywheel, pressure plate, distributor drive, cam plug, a few oil fittings, etc. are not included. Overall, I would budget $600 to $1000 on top of the kit price for the rest of the items needed, and figure another $200 to $250 for balancing if you are doing any5hing high performance.
Cool about the cam lube, I've always used the right lube where I was supposed to, just never knew the difference or why. Awesome video, man I love these!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge of vw motors.i have learned alot from your videos! I'm building my first vw motor and have it in a short block form as of now.trying to have it in long block form by tonight.i have several motors that I plan on building.thanks again darrin.keep up the good work.
This was a Grate video. Love watching things come together. I recently build a motor and haven't ran it yet. your videos help me a lot. but I built the damn thing so long ago I don't remember if my friend and I did things right....
good info. the reason why people don't use locktite on rod bolts because it gives you false torque readings. locktite torque lube is the best for getting accurate torque readings on those rod bolts and it will give you the insurance that it will stay together.
Darrin, I am going to be starting my own engine rebuild soon and found your video to be a wealth of knowledge. I have one question. How did you get the case so clean? Mine is an absolute wreck. I need to know how to clean it. Thanks
If you want your heads to cool properly in you airplane then you need to clean the casting flash from between the cooling fins . I flew a 1915 cc VW from Steve Bennett in a KR2 for 950 hours so I know what I am talking about. This can be done even with the heads in the engine from the top . What seems insignificant is aluminum casting flash that interuptsthe flow from the top through the fins and keeps the airglow from cooling the bottom of the cylinder head . I cleaned these fins out with 3 hacksaw blades bolted together to get the right thickness and smooth the airflow out . I was seeing 400 degrees plus on take off but then with the clean up 350 max . Excessive heat can cause a valve seat to drop ruining your day or worse . This is very important.
great video. I am mechanically inclined but never built a motor before. the motor on my 69' Ghia is leaking like a pig and the oil pressure drops to almost 0 when it heats up. think I might try to rebuild it myself after watching this video.
First of all thank you for the great video. Is there a specific company you use for the rebuild kit. I did some research and found that you want to find genuine parts (german) and not Japanese or Chinese. Which company do you recommend for the rebuild kit?Thank you.
hi darrin, i am new here; i am a fond viewer of your aircolled vlogs and am amazed by what you share with us; ijust bought a brazilian split screen bus with 1500cc stock engine (44bhp) and swing axle; i will use it as daily driver on german highways for which reason i look for some more bottom end torque and speed and the ability to deal with fast trucks; i want to have around 120kmh top speed and decent overtaking power; target gearbox and rear suspensionwill be IRS; could you kindly recomend to me which kind of engine mod you would suggest ? and which gear and ring/pinion ratios to consider ? i know that this comment will be sort of off topic but i did not know where to file my question and maybe you could be so kind and share your suggestions with me; cheers and kind regards
when you start the engine isn't the cam lub going to go through the engine and onto the main and rod bearings? or is it some super dense grit the jsut drops to the bottom of the pan?
having watched several of your most informative videos I'm still sort of confused as to what's wrong with building up an older 36 or 40 horse engine. Too expensive, too old technology, expense vs power, parts availability? Should I steer clear of these older cases/motor? Thanks from all of us that have benefited from the time you've spent sharing your time and knowledge. stu
Hi Darrin, excellent video. Just building my first engine from the scratch. I have a question about the dowel pins: All pins I have are about 8.1 mm. Everybody I asking keep telling me I should not bother and build them in. If they are too long, what could happen?
Thanks Darin i am in the process of putting my sons stock 1600 together, had a question about cam break in lube. This engine was put together 10 years ago and was never run long just start ups and thats it. So putting new crank bearings and rod bearing just as you said not good for an engine. Should i put break in lube this time or just assembly lube as a used motor? Been watching your stuff for a couple of years i think now i have a reason to ask questions. Thanks alot super helpful.
Marking the Bearing Shells for ease of assembly; Wouldn't it be better to fit the shells in the Case, THEN make a single mark across the join line? That way you ensure the marks are absolutely spot-on.
hey hows it going great videos to start off with watched them. but first time rebuilding a VW and i cant seem to get those dile pins to all line up with the bearings just the back bearing on the crank falls in nice other 2 not so much. any suggestions.
In one of your videos you mentioned replacing the full circle #3 bearing with a two piece #2 bearing. I can see the benefit of this as the #3 bearing can be easily replaced without removing the camshaft and distributor gears from the crankshaft. My question is, does a dowel pin hole need to be drilled in the case half where the other half of the bearing rests much like the #2 bearing half?
Hi, I’ve been watching a lot of your videos since im trying to rebuild my 1600 motor. Quite honestly its my first time doing this and although your videos are very helpful, I have a some questions that I need help with. I live in Orlando and I’ve heard you mentioned the guys at triangle. So I went there and asked about you. They mentioned that you do live in orlando, but they are professional enough to not give me any way to contact you. However they suggested to try to message you through RUclips. Well I was just wondering if by chance you may be able to answer some of my questions. I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you, Edwin
Some good information but the tang does not hold the bearings in place in a conventional wet float style bearing. the bearing actually has a preload where the edge of the bearing is slightly higher then its register (ether rod half or case half) that preloads the halves together against their journal (thats why it is so important to have the journal registers for the bearing halves perfectly clean or it will show up as a high spot in the bearing and lead to premature wear). he tang is for alignment and assembly purposes only.
building a stock motor new case ordered dowl pins from midamericamotorworks they been a very good parts supplier and to my surpize they were to long reading in the eights..located used ones i found i had in an od case. yes this does happen would have issues but thanks to your info checked it and corrected it
What would be some good beginner books? My dad recently passed and left me a ton of VW parts and two buggy’s. His garage looks like your shop parts every ware.
Please state the EXACT PRODUCT NAME and show the container to the camera for the red colored lifter paste for proper break in? Maybe even state where to purchase it?
in this viceo i am uesing Eagle Cam Break in lube , Comp cam makes a good break in lube . and it is available at Summit Racing part's. Always remember to incorporate a oil that has a high zinc Content and that the oil is intended for use with a flat tappet cam , hope this Help's
Curious about what your ideal sealants are for an engine. I have a 1600 SP that I am getting ready to put together, but it doesn't have the cuts made for the large stud O-rings. I thought it was a 67 block, but it might be a 66 as it is an H0 case. Anyway, I am trying to figure out the absolute best sealing to keep it from leaking. I don't know what to use for case halves and other places.
![BOLIVIA vs. COLOMBIA [1-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 9](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zg15uVWjuf4/mqdefault.jpg)
Darrin, I just want to thank you for all the videos you have posted. I have learned so much from you. I am almost finished restoring my 71 Super Beetle. Building the engine now. Thanks again.
Haven't built a motor for several years, and this video brings back memories. Used to love the meticulous work involved.
I found this really helpful! Great video man! Im rebuilding my first bug motor tomorrow lol
+vwdarrin thank you for the great video, it was a wonderful refresher for me. I had a stroke in '09 so this has brought back memories of building VW engines from the 80's that were forgotten. Thank you again! 👍 👍
Hey man. Don’t be so hard on yourself. Rebuilding a 1600 and I learned a lot from your videos. Thank you so much for the info.
Excellent vid....straight to my favorites with this one.
Thank you on the video. I have a 1600 VW engine on my trike. My generator alternator went while on a run to Daytona Bike Week. I like how you did step by step. I lost a good friend who help me build my trike. Thanks again for making the video.
AWESOME!!! Thanks for filming this and talking through it. Enjoyed it a lot. I could hear the flies buzzing the camera.
Thanks for the refresher course on air cooled vw engines as it has been 30 years since doing one!
Fire-Bull-02 was here. Thanks for the vid. I will be doing one of the VW motors for a sandrail later this week. Nice to see the process.
Before I left to go overseas I was building a VW motor and I ran into the exact problem you were describing with the crank not turning. I thought the guy sold me the wrong size bearings, but now I'll check the dowel pins when I get back. Thanks for the info!
The 4 red seals not the latter models are rocker arm seals for a 40 hp engine.. 4 late model , 2 black for early model and the 4 round are rocker arm seals... good job I enjoy watching how other people work, been working on them since 72 and still working on them at my house.. im 66 and still love it
very cool vid, never saw how a VW engine was put together, thanks for the vid very informative
Better than watching reality shows on Cable or satellite! FOR SURE! In my favorites!
Thank you for taking the time to share this. I will for sure follow this build and refer back to it when I build my bug engine.
Good video, I feel a lot better about tackling my first rebuild, Thanks.
I would buy the Bentley or Haynes manual, research online and just watch videos from this guy! the VW flat4 motor is one of the simplest motors to work on, so it's a good place to start. Good luck!
Thanks for this post, I like all the tips you have for a good build, lots of stuff that others either forget or assume that everyone watching knows...keep the details coming for us newbie's...
I think the long pins may have caused my dads bearings to spin in his 1600 sp. Probably why we are rebuilding his motor now. Great Video Darrin!
Wow!!!!
I am impressed with this video and how well you explained each step.
Nice job my friend.
Richard
Wow you are so generous! Thank you for taught us on how to rebuild our 1600 VW Classic Aircooled engine. You are awesome!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge - considering going for a German project and people like you make the unknown a lot less intimidating
The videos you put up Are priceless!
Good to see this on video. Well done sir. ...one comment, if I may... your torquing procedure is clearly resulting in overtorque... You should not push past the click, as you did on every nut you torqued. Your 27 ft lbs probably wound up closer to 35 or so.
I was also taught to never touch your grimy finger to a bearing surface. I must be waay old school but, it is a practice that I always follow to this day...and I'm 55.
I was taught the same thing about torquing Mitch. Then again I did 32 years in aviation,, not Vee Dubs. Dry torque vs. using a specified lube is also critical to correct final torque values.
Just got my first bug long time chevy guy I love it now I know how to fix it thanks guy
Darrin....this video rocks but you always say "guys" don't forget about all the female high performance junkies out there! :-) Thanks for the awesome video-can't wait to build my first turbo VW
I'm doing the same thing in school this semester. im building up a vw 1600 with forged rods and aa alluminum pistons. then I'm going to turbo it and add water meth injection for some lower egts and so I don't melt the pistons. I'd also like to machine the case to accept oil squirters that cool the bottoms of the pistons
I doubt you'll need to do all that. You won't really be running high enough boost to have to worry about egts and your Pistons. It's a little vw motor not a diesel. And if you're running so much boost and fuel to need piston oil coolers you might want to consider forged steel Pistons. Even tho they don't last
Hi Darrin. I know you're not well at the moment. But as there are alot of people out there that want to build stroker motors, I thought you might be able to make a how to build your bulletproof 2110cc engine.
So far I was looking at buying an engine kit from an online store, then today, I just happen to go to the scat website, and lo and behold they have the FORGED engine kit with EVERYTHING, cylinder heads, valve gear, everything. It has a good forged crank that hs alot more meat on the outside of the big ends, unlike the empi? one you show us in this vid. PLUS it's about $2000 cheaper than buying it from online shops like cb performance, 1aircooled.net etc etc.All the reciprocating components are forged. Well they come with heads and valves, but no rocker gear, but you can't expect everything for such an attractive price. I guess I should try and find those Berg rockers you recommend secondhand somewhere. And With the gearbox.. Am I better off just getting a changeover superstreet unit from 1aircooled.net instead of spending the money rebuilding my one? and what clutch should I run?
Anyway, thanks for any help you can give I know your back is really giving you grief, I appreciated any time you can take out to answer any of my questions man.
More power to you, and keep the informative vids coming!
shoominati23 the SCAT kit doesn’t have every last item needed. Things like bearing dowel pins, oil sump cover, plugs, flywheel, pressure plate, distributor drive, cam plug, a few oil fittings, etc. are not included. Overall, I would budget $600 to $1000 on top of the kit price for the rest of the items needed, and figure another $200 to $250 for balancing if you are doing any5hing high performance.
Cool about the cam lube, I've always used the right lube where I was supposed to, just never knew the difference or why. Awesome video, man I love these!
Good stuff, I don't think I've seen anybody assemble an engine on the youtube
Thank you for sharing your knowledge of vw motors.i have learned alot from your videos! I'm building my first vw motor and have it in a short block form as of now.trying to have it in long block form by tonight.i have several motors that I plan on building.thanks again darrin.keep up the good work.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I haven't built my own motor because it seemed so hard but you made it look simple.
been looking for a video like this for a while. thanks for sharing.
This was a Grate video. Love watching things come together. I recently build a motor and haven't ran it yet. your videos help me a lot. but I built the damn thing so long ago I don't remember if my friend and I did things right....
Excellent presentation , of engine components , and good advice for a clean rebuild . Thanks Boss .
Nice video. I'm about to assemble my first VW engine. This is helpful.
It's a great video. The help and advice is much appreciated.
thank you man, really thank you!
your video was exactly was i was looking for!
Great informative video Darrin. Thanks for sharing. Take care. Rich
I think I just found my new favorite channel! Thanks man!
Great teachings, thanks for taking the time video this for us.
good info. the reason why people don't use locktite on rod bolts because it gives you false torque readings. locktite torque lube is the best for getting accurate torque readings on those rod bolts and it will give you the insurance that it will stay together.
Hey Darrin hope the storm doesn't cause too much trouble for you and Andrea.
Awesome teacher.👍
Great video, I've been taking notes on it. No kidding about the flies, heard one at 22:32 and thought it was me.
Another great video. I like these more detailed and longer videos.
Great video Darrin, you got me wanting to buy a VW now lol, thanks for the video. later
wow..i dont know crap bout vw but these vids almost make me think i could build one lol...nice work
Someone will enjoy this.... Yaaa that would be me:) thanks for the vid!
Learn a lot .Thank you🤙
Good vid Darrin!! Love the mechanical builds!
Like going to school - thanks for part 1
Great job and very informative ,thank you for taking the time to do a vid of this calibre ,big thumbs up to you Darrin :-)
Excellent video thank you !
Darrin, I am going to be starting my own engine rebuild soon and found your video to be a wealth of knowledge. I have one question. How did you get the case so clean? Mine is an absolute wreck. I need to know how to clean it.
Thanks
If you want your heads to cool properly in you airplane then you need to clean the casting flash from between the cooling fins . I flew a 1915 cc VW from Steve Bennett in a KR2 for 950 hours so I know what I am talking about. This can be done even with the heads in the engine from the top . What seems insignificant is aluminum casting flash that interuptsthe flow from the top through the fins and keeps the airglow from cooling the bottom of the cylinder head . I cleaned these fins out with 3 hacksaw blades bolted together to get the right thickness and smooth the airflow out . I was seeing 400 degrees plus on take off but then with the clean up 350 max . Excessive heat can cause a valve seat to drop ruining your day or worse . This is very important.
/great job man you are a world of knowledge
great video. I am mechanically inclined but never built a motor before. the motor on my 69' Ghia is leaking like a pig and the oil pressure drops to almost 0 when it heats up. think I might try to rebuild it myself after watching this video.
Very very cool vid!
Very interesting one.
All best for you Darrin!
vwdarrin. hope your doing well. thanks for all your videos, they are very helpful.
Very helpful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
thank you havent wrenched in a while. and never a german car.
i noticed that too......
First of all thank you for the great video. Is there a specific company you use for the rebuild kit. I did some research and found that you want to find genuine parts (german) and not Japanese or Chinese. Which company do you recommend for the rebuild kit?Thank you.
hi darrin, i am new here; i am a fond viewer of your aircolled vlogs and am amazed by what you share with us; ijust bought a brazilian split screen bus with 1500cc stock engine (44bhp) and swing axle; i will use it as daily driver on german highways for which reason i look for some more bottom end torque and speed and the ability to deal with fast trucks; i want to have around 120kmh top speed and decent overtaking power; target gearbox and rear suspensionwill be IRS; could you kindly recomend to me which kind of engine mod you would suggest ? and which gear and ring/pinion ratios to consider ? i know that this comment will be sort of off topic but i did not know where to file my question and maybe you could be so kind and share your suggestions with me; cheers and kind regards
when you start the engine isn't the cam lub going to go through the engine and onto the main and rod bearings? or is it some super dense grit the jsut drops to the bottom of the pan?
This video rocks there is nothing wrong with lock tight in the piston studs
i do all the time hehe
Great video , I enjoyed watching it .
having watched several of your most informative videos I'm still sort of confused as to what's wrong with building up an older 36 or 40 horse engine. Too expensive, too old technology, expense vs power, parts availability? Should I steer clear of these older cases/motor? Thanks from all of us that have benefited from the time you've spent sharing your time and knowledge.
stu
Hi Darrin, excellent video. Just building my first engine from the scratch. I have a question about the dowel pins: All pins I have are about 8.1 mm. Everybody I asking keep telling me I should not bother and build them in. If they are too long, what could happen?
Thanks Darin i am in the process of putting my sons stock 1600 together, had a question about cam break in lube. This engine was put together 10 years ago and was never run long just start ups and thats it. So putting new crank bearings and rod bearing just as you said not good for an engine. Should i put break in lube this time or just assembly lube as a used motor?
Been watching your stuff for a couple of years i think now i have a reason to ask questions.
Thanks alot super helpful.
Marking the Bearing Shells for ease of assembly;
Wouldn't it be better to fit the shells in the Case, THEN make a single mark across the join line?
That way you ensure the marks are absolutely spot-on.
very cool video! what about cam thrust bearing? ever have one w/ the thrust thickness too large and bind the cam?
nice job, good instructional video
so right man absolutely do not use a harbor freight torque wrench I did and regret it
Great video! Very helpful!!
hey hows it going great videos to start off with watched them. but first time rebuilding a VW and i cant seem to get those dile pins to all line up with the bearings just the back bearing on the crank falls in nice other 2 not so much. any suggestions.
In one of your videos you mentioned replacing the full circle #3 bearing with a two piece #2 bearing. I can see the benefit of this as the #3 bearing can be easily replaced without removing the camshaft and distributor gears from the crankshaft. My question is, does a dowel pin hole need to be drilled in the case half where the other half of the bearing rests much like the #2 bearing half?
Very good video, lots of info!
Great video brother.
Thanks for sharing your videos...
What kind of oil are you using on the bearings and lifter bores.
awesome work best video out there, is the only difference in the build for a 1641 be the cam?
awesome how to, thanks....tony
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Hi, I’ve been watching a lot of your videos since im trying to rebuild my 1600 motor. Quite honestly its my first time doing this and although your videos are very helpful, I have a some questions that I need help with. I live in Orlando and I’ve heard you mentioned the guys at triangle. So I went there and asked about you. They mentioned that you do live in orlando, but they are professional enough to not give me any way to contact you. However they suggested to try to message you through RUclips. Well I was just wondering if by chance you may be able to answer some of my questions. I would greatly appreciate it.
Thank you,
Edwin
very informative videos. At what time do you install the flywheel and set the end play?
Great video.
cool stuff....i like this kind
Some good information but the tang does not hold the bearings in place in a conventional wet float style bearing. the bearing actually has a preload where the edge of the bearing is slightly higher then its register (ether rod half or case half) that preloads the halves together against their journal (thats why it is so important to have the journal registers for the bearing halves perfectly clean or it will show up as a high spot in the bearing and lead to premature wear). he tang is for alignment and assembly purposes only.
5:14 "n'wrrgnnatakrrrbrrnhrrrr" 😂 - great video man!
building a stock motor new case ordered dowl pins from midamericamotorworks they been a very good parts supplier and to my surpize they were to long reading in the eights..located used ones i found i had in an od case. yes this does happen would have issues but thanks to your info checked it and corrected it
thanks vwdarring. good job.
great vid.
What would be some good beginner books? My dad recently passed and left me a ton of VW parts and two buggy’s. His garage looks like your shop parts every ware.
Look up Bentley VW book
Useful-informative.Thanks vwdarrin.
Please state the EXACT PRODUCT NAME and show the container to the camera for the red colored lifter paste for proper break in? Maybe even state where to purchase it?
in this viceo i am uesing Eagle Cam Break in lube , Comp cam makes a good break in lube . and it is available at Summit Racing part's. Always remember to incorporate a oil that has a high zinc Content and that the oil is intended for use with a flat tappet cam , hope this Help's
thanks for the videos and tips
Good job!
Curious about what your ideal sealants are for an engine. I have a 1600 SP that I am getting ready to put together, but it doesn't have the cuts made for the large stud O-rings. I thought it was a 67 block, but it might be a 66 as it is an H0 case. Anyway, I am trying to figure out the absolute best sealing to keep it from leaking. I don't know what to use for case halves and other places.