Just picked up one of these bad boys off someone's trash pile. We have really terrible air quality here in salt lake city and there's a lot of talk about how to remedy it but no one talks about how little smog these things produce! Not to mention the added benefit of getting a little bit of exercise, which most Americans could use anyway. Thanks for posting! Very helpful.
i really hope these quiet and green mowers make a comeback in my neighborhood, i recently bought one and its been great, i get some exercise without all the noise and pollution, i can have earbuds in while i mow now and i dont have to worry about flinging rocks and other debris across the yard. thanks for sharing this video, a much easier process than i was expecting!
I agree with you, I converted to using a Scott's reel mower this season. It's made a huge difference in the health of my yard. I haven't had to buy gas for mowing either.
What might be interesting is hacking a treadmill motor (or even a portable drill) onto a push mower, driving it at the main wheels via contact roller, or at the height adjustment bar with the rollers/wheels there being replaced with aerating spikes or similar -- anything for traction's sake.
We got one this past summer and our grass looked the best it has since we laid the sod. It was way more green and lush all summer. And I love the noise reduction. It is a wonderful tool.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I got a 16" Scott's Reel Mower from my deceased brother's estate. My wife and I were at wits end today when it wasn't cutting the grass! I watched this video of yours and will try tightening the gap between the blade and green bar tomorrow! This is a life-saver education too! To know that I do NOT have to take this reel mower to a shop to sharpen the blades!!! I can do it MYSELF! I also found the EXACT same blade sharpening kit you have in the video at Home Depot!!! If worse comes to worst, buy the kit and sharpen the blades!!! Too, thank you for the 11/16 " drill bit option! That will save tons of muscle rub I would have to use the next day!!! PLEASE keep these videos coming!!!
Awesome! I've been avoiding sharpening my mower because I expected to need special equipment for it or to pay someone else to do it. This looks very doable!
This is too funny. I just purchased a used mower on ebay because I lost pieces to my first one.I didn't remember watching or writing comments, but I decided to watch a sharpening video and I always read a few comments. And I responded a year ago to your comment. "Ironic"
All that is needed is the abrasive; go to hardware or auto part store to buy silicon carbide paste or valve grinding compound. Exchange left/right pinion gears, look at the pin on the shaft: one side is sharp, the other side is rounded, reverse the sides also. Put the wheels back and push the mower backward.
Thanks for your detailed step by step guide here. I was able to use my 1/2 inch chuck corded drill directly attached to the mower's crankshaft. Did not run it eight minutes, more like 4 but with fast revolutions. Definitely much sharper! Just really noisy when pushing it and can't seem to adjust the edge so that it's both quieter and keeps cutting. Guess it'll stay loud but at least cut the grass well! Thanks again....great video.
Your tutorial is clear and thorough. I feel as though this is manageable for me after only one viewing! Other instructions I have found left me feeling a bit nervous about trying, but not yours!
i really appreciate this video, i got one of these so i can cut my grass at night when its not a million degrees without pissing off the neighbors and unfortunately it went dull after only a few months of use but now that i am armed with the know-how to make my mower great again thanks to you!
Thanks so much for this! I have the exact same mower, and it told me exactly what I needed to know. I had trouble getting my e-clip back on with just the screwdriver. Finally I tried the screwdriver with a gentle bop from a mallet, and it snapped right on.
Good video, thanks for taking the time. One trip to the auto store for grinding compound, a little elbow grease, and my reel mower is back in business.
That's awesome. I love these mowers, because they are quiet and gives me extra exercise, but I did not know how simple they are to sharpen. Thank you much. Kenny ps. my Plymouth voyager waterpump, timing belt went super easy due to your detailed video series.
I feel the same way. I like early morning mowing with some dew on the grass and maybe an IPOD. I'm glad you had success with that tough water pump job.
Reel mowers are more healthy for the grass as well because it cuts like scissors. The best weed prevention is a thriving lawn. You may notice fewer weeds like crabgrass if you use a reel mower.
Just ordered that kit from Amazon as I need to sharpen my 20+ yr old Classic 20. Edges look pretty rough so I might need to lap longer than 10 minutes! Also picked up a grass catcher bag too!
Well done video. Just bought a house with a small yard and the previous owner left us a Craftsman mower like your Scott. I was so concerned with how we we're going to sharpen it. The only thing I will need is the compound. Thanks for such a detailed video.
Love your video! Just bought my first reel mower today and I needed to sharpen it because I bought it in awesome Condition but blades aren't as sharp as I need, so your video is informative and I love your blade sharpening hack ( with the drill).
Works great! ruclips.net/user/postUgkxprGGPRQoChQaA8u58dt7miEpxQBKiWeJ More difficult with longer grass, though, but I was expecting that. I have a small back yard, it seemed like overkill to buy a lawnmower with an engine. This is easy to carry in and out of the basement through the bulkhead. Very sharp (be careful). At the back of the mower are little wheels, which I use when pulling the mower backwards, so it's easy to readjust direction. I'm including a photo which shows the before and after for my lawn when it was at its longest. For long grass like that you really have to put some muscle into it, and I needed to go into a new section of grass with some momentum, but when the grass is only an inch or two higher than regular cut height it's quite easy. The lawn is still patchy and full of weeds, but at least it's a good height! A step in the right direction.
Good video. On my mower (1950's era) you can take off both wheels and swap over the gear mechanism between left and right and reassemble. Now you can push it along on a flat surface so the blade turns in reverse for sharpening with grinding paste. Saves buying a kit and having to turn by hand, but clearly needs a bit more disassembly ....but its another option. Thanks again
That's great info!! Mine is similar, an older craftsman with bolt on, adjustable wheels and reversing them makes perfect sense!. I saw a video on that method but he just said "make it so it goes in reverse " so i wasn't sure how because it was a different model.
I was reading through the instruction manual for the Scotts mower in this vid and they have a short guide on how to do just what you described. Concepts haven't changed much in 70 years! The details are on page 6 of this PDF: almgscapp.azurewebsites.net/Manual/View/2010-20SG It also specifies a lapping compound of 100-240 grit for anyone out there who doesn't want to buy a special sharpening kit :)
Sharpening the cutting blades When the mower is properly lubricated and adjusted, sharpening should not be necessary for several years. However, the following steps will allow you to do the procedure yourself at relatively little expense. • Remove the "E" rings, wheels and pinion f r o m both sides of the mower (refer to figure 6). • Remove both pawls from the rectangular slots in reel shaft and reverse their positions (refer to figure 7). • Reverse the placement of the pinion gears. • Place the left pinion on the reel shaft. Replace the wheels and "E" rings. • Spread a thin layer of lapping compound on the front edge of the reel blades. • Adjust the cutter bar blade so it has light but firm contact with the reel blades across the full width of the cutter bar (refer to figure 8). CAUTION:Do not overtighten the adjusting screws, as this could damage the cutter bar. Both screws must be tight on the final adjust- ment. • Push the mower backward on a smooth sur- face (such as a sidewalk or paved driveway). Continue to do this until the reel blades rotate relatively free and front edge of the cutter bar blades are polished. • Remove wheels;reverse pinions and pawl is on the right.CAUTION:Clean any grinding compound or debris from the cutter bar blades, reel blades, pinion and pawl.Lubricate axle and pinion with a light film of wheel bear- ing grease and replace wheels and "E" rings. NOTE:It is recommended to use an industrial or valve lapping compound between 100-240 grit.This is usually available at an industrial or automobile supply store. If professional sharp- ening is required, consult your local yellow pages for lawn mower repair services from scott's mower manual ...
Sweeet video. I started to think I was in way over my head (I still might be!) trying to do this, but after watching you do it, I certainly stand a better chance. Thanks!
Thank you kind sir. Now I can "have at it" with my reel mower too. It's name brand is "American" with no doubt same construction. With all the woods around, I have dulling the blades after trying to pick up all the fallen twigs and branches.
Thank you my local hardware store didn't know what I was talking about but I went on Amazon and found the compound which was less than five dollars. I have everything else so I passed on the $35 kit but thank you thank you thank you
Excellent video... really explains what to do very well step by step. In putting the E-ring back on the axle, would recommend needle-nosed pliers as opposed to the flat head screwdriver. Was not successful with the screwdriver but the pliers worked well. Dan
Look how fancy you are getting that C-clip back on its post without cussing it screaming! Those things were made by Satan himself. Great video. Thanks.
An observation: at about 1 1/2 min. in, adjustment of the blade might be easier if the bolts holding the blade in position were loosened at both ends, adjustment made and bolts retightened. They're the horizontal bolts going through the main frame, adjuster screw bracket and threading into the blade frame.
I managed to follow your instructions to get my grandad's reel mower (scotts 5m9 from the 60's) sharpened. I was wondering though if it's necessary to lower the contact bar at 1:00 after the blades have been sharpened.
if all you can find is a 13 point or whatever 11/16 deep socket you can fold up a couple strips of cardboard about as wide as a popsicle stick and 2-3 times as thick-and put them inside socket pushed to one side…it will tighten things up just enough to work on your drill…it might slip a little but once you get going it’s fine. The only thing I bought was a tube of permatex valve grinding compound. Worked fine…very sharp. 👍. Scotts Pro 18” 7 blade…everything is the same mechanically…just 2” narrower with 2 more blades.
Yes, as the cylindrical blades rotate, they contact the stationary blade at the bottom. The abrasive cutting paste that has been applied then sharpens the edge of the cutting surfaces of the rotating head.
Hello, thanks for the video. I have the same mower and I'm about to get rid of it because everytime I use it it gets stuck and won't roll at random moments while using it. Its really infuriating. Do you know why this happens? It just locks up on me!!
After removing the circlip, the wheel, and the pinion gear, please note that each drive pinion has a little shuttle pawl that loosely fits through the reel axle shaft. This pawl acts like a ratchet to lock the drive wheels to the reel axle when pushing forward, yet clicking slightly when pulling the mower in reverse as the pawl's two angled ends shuttle back and forth between the THREE cavities cast in the inside faces of the pinions (that's intentional).. Those pawls are designed to lock up in one direction (FORWARD) and slip in the other (Reverse) ; i.e. ......... you must be sure to write down the orientation of the pawl faces. Just note where the bevel is in each of the two pawls. If you put the right side pawl in upside down, for example, , as you push the mower, it will be driving only the left wheel, the right wheel ratchet will think it's going in reverse, and the mower will pull to the left because there will only be resistance from the left wheel.. At the end, the right side of the mower cut was leaving a fair amount of "holidays' as compared to the left. FYI
thank you so much! this may make my weekend a lot easier. do you know if home Depot sells that compound? and if so what am I looking for? im going to do the adjustment first because it seemed to give me a good cut last summer.
I have a Earthwise 16" manual reel mower and want to sharpen the blades with a backlapping kit. I don't want to use the crankbar because it's too manual and slow. I'd like to use my cordless drill but my drill chuck does not fit the axle bolt to turn it. Any suggestions??
I'm in Miami,FL right now so the grass never seems to stop growing lol..and it's the rainy season here now so, I'm expecting a jungle if I don't keep at it! So, can I ask, is the kit the best way to sharpen your blades? I've read that it is, but I've seen older folks use files,sharpening stones and the like... I'd love to hear your opinion (again) lol on what you believe is the best way. ;)
Yeah the kit is the way to go. Let's leave the hand sharpening (seems impossible on a reel mower) in the past. I envy your problem with lush grass this time of year!
Is there a reason you don't just reverse the reel gears and push the mower around with lapping compound for 10 minutes? That was how I was taught way back when, but it seems like every video says to use some form of mechanical advantage to turn the reel backwards manually. I'm not even sure I can find a video on reversing the gears on these machines, although I thought it was in the assembly guide when i first bought the mower.
The little piece you shouldn't loose in the drive shaft can be turned around. If you put the wheel back on you can spin it in reverse. much easier than hand cranking it.
The only thing about this mower.....I wish the bed knife was designed like pro mowers. It's a 90 degree angle rather than a flat introduction for the reel to come into. And there is no relief on the reel itself. How do I know this? Turf degree. So.....it is what it is. This mower jams frequently too with any instructions. Sorry...I should add I modified the mower to cut at 1/4 inch for the tee box on my property. I give this mower a 8 for it's class though. Thanks for reminding me how to back lap!
@@TheOriginalMechanic No it keeps the blades from wearing out faster and reduces the force needed to push the mower. You will notice after cutting your grass enough that the mower gets easier to push due to the blades losing contact with the lower blade.
Something I have noticed is that my Scott get's a little more difficult to push after each sharpening. I've used it for about eight years now and it's really hard to push after the last sharpening. I tried loosening the bottom blade a little but then it wouldn't cut the paper. I think there may be a point when it's just time for a new mower.
I don't have a Scott's mower but from experience I would guess that the bed knife may be a little worn. If the point of contact between the reel blades and the bed knife is too great you will need to tighten up the bed knife excessively to achieve a consistent cut. Is it possible to unscrew the bed knife and then either turn it over, file it down or even replace it? An alternative is to grind a chamfer on each of the reel blades so that only the first 1/32" of their width comes into contact with the bed knife. Obviously that takes a little time, but it's worth it as they cut so well after you have done this.
Long time ago but did you ever figure out what to do about this? I have exactly this issue after sharpening at 30-year old mower possibly for the first time.
@@alexbryant93 I ended up buying a Worx battery electric mower. I used both mowers for a while depending on my mood. I think the reel did eventually get easier to push but I have no room to store both mowers so just use the electric now.
Sorry I don't have that info. The compound came in an unmarked container in the kit. If you read the comments below, some viewers have offered advice on what to use for the compound.
Are we supposed to reapply the lapping compound a bunch of times throughout the 8 minutes? The instructions don't mention this, but it seems like the compound gets pushed out of the way and does nothing after 10 seconds, let alone 8 minutes.
Yes you should reapply until it cuts paper all the way across...after you rinse it off adjust until you have light contact, cutting paper all the way across
Paul Ramirez no you don't readjust, because you are honing the blades and that will set the gap. If you adjust the blades back out they will be to far from the bar and won't cut properly.
I would try soaking them in penitrant like WD40 or the popular PB Blaster. If that doesn't work try jarring them a bit with a hammer, or use an impact driver if you can get hold of one.
Just picked up one of these bad boys off someone's trash pile. We have really terrible air quality here in salt lake city and there's a lot of talk about how to remedy it but no one talks about how little smog these things produce! Not to mention the added benefit of getting a little bit of exercise, which most Americans could use anyway. Thanks for posting! Very helpful.
And manufacturers of gasoline powered lawn mowers (or our government) make no effort to reduce pollutants. Thanks for watching and great comment!.
i really hope these quiet and green mowers make a comeback in my neighborhood, i recently bought one and its been great, i get some exercise without all the noise and pollution, i can have earbuds in while i mow now and i dont have to worry about flinging rocks and other debris across the yard. thanks for sharing this video, a much easier process than i was expecting!
I agree with you, I converted to using a Scott's reel mower this season. It's made a huge difference in the health of my yard. I haven't had to buy gas for mowing either.
There are pull behind units that can be pulled with electric golf cart, or gas powered
What might be interesting is hacking a treadmill motor (or even a portable drill) onto a push mower, driving it at the main wheels via contact roller, or at the height adjustment bar with the rollers/wheels there being replaced with aerating spikes or similar -- anything for traction's sake.
We got one this past summer and our grass looked the best it has since we laid the sod. It was way more green and lush all summer. And I love the noise reduction. It is a wonderful tool.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I got a 16" Scott's Reel Mower from my deceased brother's estate. My wife and I were at wits end today when it wasn't cutting the grass! I watched this video of yours and will try tightening the gap between the blade and green bar tomorrow! This is a life-saver education too! To know that I do NOT have to take this reel mower to a shop to sharpen the blades!!! I can do it MYSELF! I also found the EXACT same blade sharpening kit you have in the video at Home Depot!!! If worse comes to worst, buy the kit and sharpen the blades!!! Too, thank you for the 11/16 " drill bit option! That will save tons of muscle rub I would have to use the next day!!! PLEASE keep these videos coming!!!
Awesome! I've been avoiding sharpening my mower because I expected to need special equipment for it or to pay someone else to do it. This looks very doable!
YES, I THOUGHT THE SAME
This is too funny. I just purchased a used mower on ebay because I lost pieces to my first one.I didn't remember watching or writing comments, but I decided to watch a sharpening video and I always read a few comments. And I responded a year ago to your comment. "Ironic"
It actually is I have an earthwise 7 blade reel mower and by me watching videos like this one here you learn quite a bit
All that is needed is the abrasive; go to hardware or auto part store to buy silicon carbide paste or valve grinding compound. Exchange left/right pinion gears, look at the pin on the shaft: one side is sharp, the other side is rounded, reverse the sides also. Put the wheels back and push the mower backward.
A mixture of sand and grease works as a grinding compound too...and much cheaper than the store bought compound.
Thanks for your detailed step by step guide here. I was able to use my 1/2 inch chuck corded drill directly attached to the mower's crankshaft. Did not run it eight minutes, more like 4 but with fast revolutions. Definitely much sharper! Just really noisy when pushing it and can't seem to adjust the edge so that it's both quieter and keeps cutting. Guess it'll stay loud but at least cut the grass well!
Thanks again....great video.
Your tutorial is clear and thorough. I feel as though this is manageable for me after only one viewing! Other instructions I have found left me feeling a bit nervous about trying, but not yours!
I just got a 3 gang pull behind for my big yard I also have a push one for around the house thank you , you answered all my questions
i really appreciate this video, i got one of these so i can cut my grass at night when its not a million degrees without pissing off the neighbors and unfortunately it went dull after only a few months of use but now that i am armed with the know-how to make my mower great again thanks to you!
Awesome video. Agree that the noice factor plus exercise makes these mowers invaluable
Thanks so much for this! I have the exact same mower, and it told me exactly what I needed to know.
I had trouble getting my e-clip back on with just the screwdriver. Finally I tried the screwdriver with a gentle bop from a mallet, and it snapped right on.
Needle-nose pliers work like a charm
Good video, thanks for taking the time. One trip to the auto store for grinding compound, a little elbow grease, and my reel mower is back in business.
That's awesome.
I love these mowers, because they are quiet and gives me extra exercise, but I did not know how simple they are to sharpen.
Thank you much.
Kenny
ps. my Plymouth voyager waterpump, timing belt went super easy due to your detailed video series.
I feel the same way. I like early morning mowing with some dew on the grass and maybe an IPOD. I'm glad you had success with that tough water pump job.
Reel mowers are more healthy for the grass as well because it cuts like scissors. The best weed prevention is a thriving lawn. You may notice fewer weeds like crabgrass if you use a reel mower.
Just ordered that kit from Amazon as I need to sharpen my 20+ yr old Classic 20. Edges look pretty rough so I might need to lap longer than 10 minutes! Also picked up a grass catcher bag too!
Well done video. Just bought a house with a small yard and the previous owner left us a Craftsman mower like your Scott. I was so concerned with how we we're going to sharpen it. The only thing I will need is the compound. Thanks for such a detailed video.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Love your video! Just bought my first reel mower today and I needed to sharpen it because I bought it in awesome Condition but blades aren't as sharp as I need, so your video is informative and I love your blade sharpening hack ( with the drill).
Thanks for watching and commenting. I long for the days when I can use mine again. But my grass is still under 18 inches of snow lol
Works great! ruclips.net/user/postUgkxprGGPRQoChQaA8u58dt7miEpxQBKiWeJ More difficult with longer grass, though, but I was expecting that. I have a small back yard, it seemed like overkill to buy a lawnmower with an engine. This is easy to carry in and out of the basement through the bulkhead. Very sharp (be careful). At the back of the mower are little wheels, which I use when pulling the mower backwards, so it's easy to readjust direction. I'm including a photo which shows the before and after for my lawn when it was at its longest. For long grass like that you really have to put some muscle into it, and I needed to go into a new section of grass with some momentum, but when the grass is only an inch or two higher than regular cut height it's quite easy. The lawn is still patchy and full of weeds, but at least it's a good height! A step in the right direction.
Good video. On my mower (1950's era) you can take off both wheels and swap over the gear mechanism between left and right and reassemble. Now you can push it along on a flat surface so the blade turns in reverse for sharpening with grinding paste. Saves buying a kit and having to turn by hand, but clearly needs a bit more disassembly ....but its another option. Thanks again
That's great info!! Mine is similar, an older craftsman with bolt on, adjustable wheels and reversing them makes perfect sense!. I saw a video on that method but he just said "make it so it goes in reverse " so i wasn't sure how because it was a different model.
I was reading through the instruction manual for the Scotts mower in this vid and they have a short guide on how to do just what you described. Concepts haven't changed much in 70 years! The details are on page 6 of this PDF: almgscapp.azurewebsites.net/Manual/View/2010-20SG
It also specifies a lapping compound of 100-240 grit for anyone out there who doesn't want to buy a special sharpening kit :)
In the Scott reeler mover is the same, that is the way I did mine. However, why does it have to rotate backward to sharpen it?
@@carlospadilla7296 i wanted to bump your question to the top. I too want to know the answer to your question.
Sharpening the cutting blades
When the mower is properly lubricated and
adjusted, sharpening should not be necessary
for several years. However, the following steps
will allow you to do the procedure yourself at
relatively little expense.
• Remove the "E" rings, wheels and pinion f r o m
both sides of the mower (refer to figure 6).
• Remove both pawls from the rectangular slots
in reel shaft and reverse their positions (refer
to figure 7).
• Reverse the placement of the pinion gears.
• Place the left pinion on the reel shaft.
Replace the wheels and "E" rings.
• Spread a thin layer of lapping compound on
the front edge of the reel blades.
• Adjust the cutter bar blade so it has light but
firm contact with the reel blades across the
full width of the cutter bar (refer to figure 8).
CAUTION:Do not overtighten the adjusting
screws, as this could damage the cutter bar.
Both screws must be tight on the final adjust-
ment.
• Push the mower backward on a smooth sur-
face (such as a sidewalk or paved driveway).
Continue to do this until the reel blades rotate
relatively free and front edge of the cutter bar
blades are polished.
• Remove wheels;reverse pinions and pawl is
on the right.CAUTION:Clean any grinding
compound or debris from the cutter bar
blades, reel blades, pinion and pawl.Lubricate
axle and pinion with a light film of wheel bear-
ing grease and replace wheels and "E" rings.
NOTE:It is recommended to use an industrial
or valve lapping compound between 100-240
grit.This is usually available at an industrial or
automobile supply store. If professional sharp-
ening is required, consult your local yellow
pages for lawn mower repair services
from scott's mower manual ...
I wouldn't say the cut is even but that isn't important. Reel mowers are awesome and nice video. Thanks
Beautiful job, I read that a six point socket will fit over the dog eared sear or woodruff key type hardware.
Sweeet video. I started to think I was in way over my head (I still might be!) trying to do this, but after watching you do it, I certainly stand a better chance. Thanks!
Perfect video. i have the same reel mower and did not know how to sharpen it. thanks for making video!
You're welcome
Thank you for the video. I will be giving it a shot this weekend sharpening my husqvarna reel mower.
Thank you, very clearly explained and demonstrated.
THANK SOOO MUCH. I HAD ONE BUT DIDNT HAVE A GLUE ON HOW TO SHARPEN IT. NOW I HAVE TO FIND MY KIT OR BY A NEW ONE.
Thank you kind sir. Now I can "have at it" with my reel mower too. It's name brand is "American" with no doubt same construction. With all the woods around, I have dulling the blades after trying to pick up all the fallen twigs and branches.
You're welcome. Yeah, I think most of these are made in the same factory and fitted with different name plates.
@@TheOriginalMechanic "American" But made in China :P, nice video thanks for making it!
Scott should pay you a commission and include your RUclips address in the Manual. Great. Thanks.
Brilliant demonstration very well explained. Thank you.
Thankyou,😊 I've got a Scott's mower too and now I know how to sharpen it😁
Thank You. All I did was adjust the screws and the mower is cutting like I just bought it.
I just did the same!
So glad you care about not annoying the neighbors!
Nothing wrong with someone taking care of their yard with a gas mower.
Thank you so much. This was the best DIY for a push mower.
You're welcome. I really appreciate the feedback!
Thank you my local hardware store didn't know what I was talking about but I went on Amazon and found the compound which was less than five dollars. I have everything else so I passed on the $35 kit but thank you thank you thank you
thanks havent seen anyone do this since i was a kid hanging with grandpa
Great video... helped me a lot!! Paper test passed!
I wish you were my neighbor. Awesome video!
Thanks for the help, it's cutting like butter!
I have the same one. I used mine to cut my backyard. The grass and weeds were tall. They got wrapped around the tires. I’m nervous of taking it apart.
A mixture of sand and grease work as a grinding compound too...much cheaper than store bought compound.
Excellent video... really explains what to do very well step by step. In putting the E-ring back on the axle, would recommend needle-nosed pliers as opposed to the flat head screwdriver. Was not successful with the screwdriver but the pliers worked well. Dan
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Look how fancy you are getting that C-clip back on its post without cussing it screaming!
Those things were made by Satan himself.
Great video. Thanks.
Excellent video
Todas las descriptions
Aplicadas ala perfection have aproviation
😀😀😀😀😀
An observation: at about 1 1/2 min. in, adjustment of the blade might be easier if the bolts holding the blade in position were loosened at both ends, adjustment made and bolts retightened. They're the horizontal bolts going through the main frame, adjuster screw bracket and threading into the blade frame.
Saw a comment on another website. Swap the pinion gears and it reverses the drive direction for back lapping purposes.
Thanks for the info bro, just awesome
Clear and concise directions. Very informative.
Thanks! Very helpful, especially the paper test trick
Excelente video!!!!!!
I managed to follow your instructions to get my grandad's reel mower (scotts 5m9 from the 60's) sharpened. I was wondering though if it's necessary to lower the contact bar at 1:00 after the blades have been sharpened.
I made that adjustment before sharpening due to a gap. After sharpening this won't be necessary if the bar was making good contact before sharpening,
@@TheOriginalMechanic Got it. Thanks.
if all you can find is a 13 point or whatever 11/16 deep socket you can fold up a couple strips of cardboard about as wide as a popsicle stick and 2-3 times as thick-and put them inside socket pushed to one side…it will tighten things up just enough to work on your drill…it might slip a little but once you get going it’s fine. The only thing I bought was a tube of permatex valve grinding compound. Worked fine…very sharp. 👍. Scotts Pro 18” 7 blade…everything is the same mechanically…just 2” narrower with 2 more blades.
Good tips, I'm going to try the Permatex next time. Thanks for sharing!
I have the same mower and kit you used. I’m only curious HOWit sharpens the blades. Doesn’t it need to rub against something?
Yes, as the cylindrical blades rotate, they contact the stationary blade at the bottom. The abrasive cutting paste that has been applied then sharpens the edge of the cutting surfaces of the rotating head.
My hand-me-down mower will cut baby grass but it refuses to cut anything with wheat heads on it 😤 This should help, thank you!!!
Thank you. I needed this.
Hello, thanks for the video. I have the same mower and I'm about to get rid of it because everytime I use it it gets stuck and won't roll at random moments while using it. Its really infuriating. Do you know why this happens? It just locks up on me!!
Ever find out why?
No twigs, sticks, burrs, etc.
Great info thank you 🇨🇦👍
Good video
thanks for the info, works perfect with my great states reel mower
I'm out cutting my lawn withy reel mower at 7 a.m., freshly brewed cup of coffee, music and not bothering anyone.
After removing the circlip, the wheel, and the pinion gear, please note that each drive pinion has a little shuttle pawl that loosely fits through the reel axle shaft. This pawl acts like a ratchet to lock the drive wheels to the reel axle when pushing forward, yet clicking slightly when pulling the mower in reverse as the pawl's two angled ends shuttle back and forth between the THREE cavities cast in the inside faces of the pinions (that's intentional).. Those pawls are designed to lock up in one direction (FORWARD) and slip in the other (Reverse) ; i.e. ......... you must be sure to write down the orientation of the pawl faces. Just note where the bevel is in each of the two pawls. If you put the right side pawl in upside down, for example, , as you push the mower, it will be driving only the left wheel, the right wheel ratchet will think it's going in reverse, and the mower will pull to the left because there will only be resistance from the left wheel..
At the end, the right side of the mower cut was leaving a fair amount of "holidays' as compared to the left.
FYI
Hi scott,Can you list the material you used?
thank you so much! this may make my weekend a lot easier. do you know if home Depot sells that compound? and if so what am I looking for? im going to do the adjustment first because it seemed to give me a good cut last summer.
This came in a kit I found at an old fashioned hardware store. I don't know about Home Depot. They should if they sell the mowers.
Thanks for the demonstration. I'll have to give this a try.
You're very welcome.
I have a Earthwise 16" manual reel mower and want to sharpen the blades with a backlapping kit. I don't want to use the crankbar because it's too manual and slow. I'd like to use my cordless drill but my drill chuck does not fit the axle bolt to turn it. Any suggestions??
You should pick up an adaptor that will fit into your drill chuck on one end and a 1/4 or 3/8" socket on the other.
Also when you’re finished sharpening, do you have to readjust the blades?
I didn't need to adjust after sharpening.
Does the left wheel have the same tiny pin you said to be careful with? Because I think I may have lost mine in the grass 😖
I don't know about the pin. You may have to look for a replacement. I would take the other to a hardware store to try to match it.
I use one of these to cut my grass at night in the summer. I'd rather do it at midnight in the dark as opposed to 4 in the afternoon when it's 100°
Hi! where to buy Reel-Mower-Sharpening-Kit-SK-1 in Europe?
How necessary is it to adjust the screws like you did at the beginning?
What do you do when the socket gets stuck on the axel?
I'm in Miami,FL right now so the grass never seems to stop growing lol..and it's the rainy season here now so, I'm expecting a jungle if I don't keep at it! So, can I ask, is the kit the best way to sharpen your blades? I've read that it is, but I've seen older folks use files,sharpening stones and the like...
I'd love to hear your opinion (again) lol on what you believe is the best way. ;)
Yeah the kit is the way to go. Let's leave the hand sharpening (seems impossible on a reel mower) in the past. I envy your problem with lush grass this time of year!
Good job
Is there a reason you don't just reverse the reel gears and push the mower around with lapping compound for 10 minutes? That was how I was taught way back when, but it seems like every video says to use some form of mechanical advantage to turn the reel backwards manually. I'm not even sure I can find a video on reversing the gears on these machines, although I thought it was in the assembly guide when i first bought the mower.
I can understand what your saying and can think of no reason for not trying that. It would certainly be simpler.
There is at least one I've seen, but don't have its address. It is there, however, and is simple enough
How long did you run the drill for. I watch another video and the guy said ten minutes. That seems excessive though.
The little piece you shouldn't loose in the drive shaft can be turned around. If you put the wheel back on you can spin it in reverse. much easier than hand cranking it.
It's still not clear to me what surface the blades are sharpening against. What is needed other than the crank tool?
The leading edge of those rotating blades are being sharpened. You need the abrasive action of the sharpening compound.
Thank you.
The only thing about this mower.....I wish the bed knife was designed like pro mowers. It's a 90 degree angle rather than a flat introduction for the reel to come into. And there is no relief on the reel itself. How do I know this? Turf degree. So.....it is what it is. This mower jams frequently too with any instructions. Sorry...I should add I modified the mower to cut at 1/4 inch for the tee box on my property. I give this mower a 8 for it's class though. Thanks for reminding me how to back lap!
Nice video! After you sharpened, did you re-adjust the screws back to the position they were before you started
No, I did not. I think that would take the blades out of contact with that lower cutting edge and result in a poor cut.
@@TheOriginalMechanic No it keeps the blades from wearing out faster and reduces the force needed to push the mower. You will notice after cutting your grass enough that the mower gets easier to push due to the blades losing contact with the lower blade.
Yes you should adjust to light contact..
Thanks; helpful in 22'
Headphone users beware! Stop the video at 7:10! Damn that hurt...
Nice video though! Can't wait to get my blades sharpened
Very helpful thanks for the video!!
Wonderful! Thank you.
Something I have noticed is that my Scott get's a little more difficult to push after each sharpening. I've used it for about eight years now and it's really hard to push after the last sharpening. I tried loosening the bottom blade a little but then it wouldn't cut the paper. I think there may be a point when it's just time for a new mower.
I don't have a Scott's mower but from experience I would guess that the bed knife may be a little worn. If the point of contact between the reel blades and the bed knife is too great you will need to tighten up the bed knife excessively to achieve a consistent cut. Is it possible to unscrew the bed knife and then either turn it over, file it down or even replace it? An alternative is to grind a chamfer on each of the reel blades so that only the first 1/32" of their width comes into contact with the bed knife. Obviously that takes a little time, but it's worth it as they cut so well after you have done this.
Long time ago but did you ever figure out what to do about this? I have exactly this issue after sharpening at 30-year old mower possibly for the first time.
@@alexbryant93 I ended up buying a Worx battery electric mower. I used both mowers for a while depending on my mood. I think the reel did eventually get easier to push but I have no room to store both mowers so just use the electric now.
need to loosen side bolts also to adjust then when dun tighten side bolts
I just got my NEW TOY TODAY I LOVE IT!
How much does a new unit cost?
How long did you use the drill while sharpening?
As I recall about 5 minutes. It should be in the video.
Thanks! Very helpful.
Awesome video brudder!
Doing this tomorrow thank you
whats the name and type of the compound you used please.
Sorry I don't have that info. The compound came in an unmarked container in the kit. If you read the comments below, some viewers have offered advice on what to use for the compound.
Did you need to adjust the screws again at the end?
I did not
Do you just put a light or heavy layer of compound?
I would lean toward a lighter layer of compound
Another nice thing about a reel moweer is that you can cancel your gym membership. It's a pretty good workout on the core ;-)
Very true lol! I actually set my Fitbit up for a hike workout before I start and both the average pulse and calories exceed a regular hike.
Hi do you have a link for the kit that your purchased ?
No sorry I found this at a hardware store
Are we supposed to reapply the lapping compound a bunch of times throughout the 8 minutes? The instructions don't mention this, but it seems like the compound gets pushed out of the way and does nothing after 10 seconds, let alone 8 minutes.
I only apply it once.. with good results. There's no harm in more, I suppose.
Hmm, ok. I'll have to try having faith in the process next time then. Thanks.
You're welcome.
Yes you should reapply until it cuts paper all the way across...after you rinse it off adjust until you have light contact, cutting paper all the way across
great video.
No lube on your drive gears and axle?
Yeah, wouldn't hurt I guess lol
Thanks, pretty useful video!
You're welcome.
Did you re-adjust the screws back off the blade when done?
No. They stay where they were for sharpening.
Thank you
So, do not re-adjust?
Darlene Schlick I'm confused. I think they should be readjusted once you're done sharpening...
Paul Ramirez no you don't readjust, because you are honing the blades and that will set the gap. If you adjust the blades back out they will be to far from the bar and won't cut properly.
Anyone know how to tighten the back wheels?
I can't get the screws to budge to get move the blade away from the surface (sharpener). Any ideas? I've only had this thing for 1 year
I would try soaking them in penitrant like WD40 or the popular PB Blaster. If that doesn't work try jarring them a bit with a hammer, or use an impact driver if you can get hold of one.
PB blaster..of not drill it out and replace