I recently acquired a Bradford On Avon (8 serial numbers in a row) bike, and will be preserving its originality 100%. If I change anything at all, it will be the gears to 8 speed. I think its great to have it be exactly as it was 58 years ago. If I want better performance, I'll ride my Colnago Master.
@@noble_wolf Thanks! Do you have any suggestions for cleaning all of the old grease off of the bike parts? I hear that degreaser prodcuts are not good for bearings...
I'm (eventually) replacing all the bearings, or at least regreasing them, so I used Gunk and a pressure washer to get rid of a lot of dirt/grease, and brake cleaner on some parts (get the liquid version in gallon containers from a motor factor, a lot cheaper than aerosol) - it's still not fully clean though as some of the dirt looks like it's been baked on since the mid 60s. The brake calipers for instance will need a good polishing to remove all the dirt & corrosion. Before I repaint, I'll get it media blasted so I can inspect the brazing too.
@@noble_wolf Dealing with same, here... I used Simple Green 1:1 with water and a wire brush to remove all baked on grease, and surface rust came off the brake sets, as well. I have decided to leave mine as is, unpainted. I used Meguiar's cutting compound (gently) to clean the paint up, and will wax it, and used marine grease on the seatpost, etc... Thanks Again!
Reminds me of exactly the same model I purchased for a tenner some years ago , tatty paintwork but good mechanicals . (GB) bars/ stem etc, did not progress with restored , ( to many more to do). So sold it as was for £100. Well chuffed. Good luck with your project cheers
I've just finished a very similar project - an ever-so slightly later Moulton F series 2 from 1964. Challenges included: -getting the front fork apart (mine is a Kirkby made bike, and appratenly they were pretty stingy with the grease); -sourcing a mathcing rear brake (the rear brake on the series 2 needs to be a full length front brake to reach through the fork - not sure if this applies to the series 1 like yours though). - getting a suitable front wheel - I think you said you had one of these, I made a stupid mistake and bought a brompton front wheel, which have too narrow hubs, so had to do a rebuild. All in all there were some stressful moments - as it is a pretty unique design, and not always the easiest to work on, but the end result was well worth it I think upgrading the brake calipers and going alloy wheels is a good shout - I went alloy rims, but have kept original model brakes - and tbh the stopping could definetley be improved. Alloy handlebars and stems will take a bit of weight off - but the frame is pretty heavy on mine - so the weight benefits may be marginal. But at least rust won't be as big a problem as the original parts. Yours looks to be a series 1 - with the thinner rear forks. These can apparently fracture - there is a easy welding fix (I say easy, it would be beyond my skill set) - but this might be somehting you want to look into, espcially if you are getting it stripped and repainted. Looking forward to watching your videos - and good luck with the project!
Thanks for your comments, much appreciated. I've had "fun" with seized solid components, including the front fork - my frame & rear forks look to be brazed, but it's stamped "K63" so assembled in Kirkby with minimal grease. Most screws and bolts were totally fused together. The rear forks I've been advised to braze (shame, as I have a mig welder but no brazing kit) the strengthening panels on. I think I can get away with a pair of brakes, rather than two fronts, and yes, I've got a pair of chrome wheels so just need to build some alloy rims onto the hubs, maybe with stainless spokes. I will also have to get some stainless fasteners to replace the ones that snapped or I have had to chop off :)
Thank you, I will be uploading regular videos of my progress as I strip and rebuild this bike. the next instalment is ruclips.net/video/xXdiPuFIAXo/видео.html
Don’t put old Moultons in a work stand as the only thing holding the rear swing arm up with the rear wheel is the 60 yr old glue attaching the rubber block to the metal shoe. Always support the rear wheel or forks to avoid separation.😀👍
I reckon if you can go with the original colour scheme and you like the colour then go with it otherwise try the same approach with other “correct” colours, but only if you’re definitely keeping it yourself then you could go with something personalised. Maybe if it will be sold on then leave it in primer and finish it to the buyers choice?
I'm edging towards just cleaning up the frame paintwork (front & rear forks will need painting though), touching up where it's particularly bad, and maybe some clear coat to preserve what's there. The weather's also getting a bit cool and damp for DIY paint spraying.
@@noble_wolf yeah “a light tidy” first time around, which will be enough project already unseizing and restoring and sourcing needed parts. Then you have something useable, presentable, and can take decision from there whether to strip and refinish.
Powder coating is looking like the preferred option at the moment, though that (like many things) depends on what I can scavenge when the time comes to paint/coat.
If you'd like to follow my progress with this project, please subscribe to my channel ruclips.net/channel/UCINkq-NASAmTOjJF9YHtzdg
It’s a lovely bicycle.
Thank you, hopefully it will be when it's finished.
I recently acquired a Bradford On Avon (8 serial numbers in a row) bike, and will be preserving its originality 100%. If I change anything at all, it will be the gears to 8 speed. I think its great to have it be exactly as it was 58 years ago. If I want better performance, I'll ride my Colnago Master.
Good luck with your restoration/ 8 speed conversion. I'll look forward to seeing it on the Facebook Moulton groups.
@@noble_wolf Thanks! Do you have any suggestions for cleaning all of the old grease off of the bike parts? I hear that degreaser prodcuts are not good for bearings...
I'm (eventually) replacing all the bearings, or at least regreasing them, so I used Gunk and a pressure washer to get rid of a lot of dirt/grease, and brake cleaner on some parts (get the liquid version in gallon containers from a motor factor, a lot cheaper than aerosol) - it's still not fully clean though as some of the dirt looks like it's been baked on since the mid 60s. The brake calipers for instance will need a good polishing to remove all the dirt & corrosion. Before I repaint, I'll get it media blasted so I can inspect the brazing too.
@@noble_wolf Dealing with same, here... I used Simple Green 1:1 with water and a wire brush to remove all baked on grease, and surface rust came off the brake sets, as well. I have decided to leave mine as is, unpainted. I used Meguiar's cutting compound (gently) to clean the paint up, and will wax it, and used marine grease on the seatpost, etc... Thanks Again!
Reminds me of exactly the same model I purchased for a tenner some years ago , tatty paintwork but good mechanicals . (GB) bars/ stem etc, did not progress with restored , ( to many more to do). So sold it as was for £100. Well chuffed. Good luck with your project cheers
A tenner is great for any bike. You never know, this could be the same one.
I've just finished a very similar project - an ever-so slightly later Moulton F series 2 from 1964.
Challenges included:
-getting the front fork apart (mine is a Kirkby made bike, and appratenly they were pretty stingy with the grease);
-sourcing a mathcing rear brake (the rear brake on the series 2 needs to be a full length front brake to reach through the fork - not sure if this applies to the series 1 like yours though).
- getting a suitable front wheel - I think you said you had one of these, I made a stupid mistake and bought a brompton front wheel, which have too narrow hubs, so had to do a rebuild.
All in all there were some stressful moments - as it is a pretty unique design, and not always the easiest to work on, but the end result was well worth it
I think upgrading the brake calipers and going alloy wheels is a good shout - I went alloy rims, but have kept original model brakes - and tbh the stopping could definetley be improved.
Alloy handlebars and stems will take a bit of weight off - but the frame is pretty heavy on mine - so the weight benefits may be marginal. But at least rust won't be as big a problem as the original parts.
Yours looks to be a series 1 - with the thinner rear forks. These can apparently fracture - there is a easy welding fix (I say easy, it would be beyond my skill set) - but this might be somehting you want to look into, espcially if you are getting it stripped and repainted.
Looking forward to watching your videos - and good luck with the project!
Thanks for your comments, much appreciated. I've had "fun" with seized solid components, including the front fork - my frame & rear forks look to be brazed, but it's stamped "K63" so assembled in Kirkby with minimal grease. Most screws and bolts were totally fused together. The rear forks I've been advised to braze (shame, as I have a mig welder but no brazing kit) the strengthening panels on. I think I can get away with a pair of brakes, rather than two fronts, and yes, I've got a pair of chrome wheels so just need to build some alloy rims onto the hubs, maybe with stainless spokes. I will also have to get some stainless fasteners to replace the ones that snapped or I have had to chop off :)
I have a Moulton F frame ( in bits) so I will be interested to see what you do.
Thank you, I will be uploading regular videos of my progress as I strip and rebuild this bike. the next instalment is ruclips.net/video/xXdiPuFIAXo/видео.html
Don’t put old Moultons in a work stand as the only thing holding the rear swing arm up with the rear wheel is the 60 yr old glue attaching the rubber block to the metal shoe. Always support the rear wheel or forks to avoid separation.😀👍
That is a good tip, much appreciated thanks
@@noble_wolf anytime. Restored my own deluxe a few years back👍
I reckon if you can go with the original colour scheme and you like the colour then go with it otherwise try the same approach with other “correct” colours, but only if you’re definitely keeping it yourself then you could go with something personalised. Maybe if it will be sold on then leave it in primer and finish it to the buyers choice?
I'm edging towards just cleaning up the frame paintwork (front & rear forks will need painting though), touching up where it's particularly bad, and maybe some clear coat to preserve what's there. The weather's also getting a bit cool and damp for DIY paint spraying.
@@noble_wolf yeah “a light tidy” first time around, which will be enough project already unseizing and restoring and sourcing needed parts. Then you have something useable, presentable, and can take decision from there whether to strip and refinish.
Oh, and it needs a touch of BAFANG too obviously
@@LeeTanczos That would be a cool addition, and make a great commuter - but alas the budget won't stretch that far. Maybe one for the future.
I would powder coat..if you can’t copy the billiard cue design I would stick with the the blue colour and just a have an off white band at the top
Powder coating is looking like the preferred option at the moment, though that (like many things) depends on what I can scavenge when the time comes to paint/coat.
I have some spares
That's good to know - I haven't taken the front fork & suspension off yet - there's not a lot of movement in it, so not sure what I'll find.