You are correct. The race was in a "blind" hole, meaning that there is no way to press from the backside or pry it out. By welding completely around the inside face of the race, when it cooled, the race shrank. The bearing seat, or housing, was unaffected.
Wondering with that nice machine and indoor shop you don't have air tools, mainly a air hammer to help you get this done? Thanks for the vid. Trying to prep for doing the front axle on my case 580 super k.
The tractor was at property with a roof-only barn. Regarding anything except a portable generator, I didn't think I needed other equipment, so I didn't haul the extras there for the work.
Good question. I assembled with the shim. When I tested the hub tightness, it was loose. Not terribly loose, but there was up/down play with the hub, which is equal to giving the top of the tire an in/out movement. This would mean that the upper and lower kingpins are too far apart. Remove the shim(s) and re-assemble to test again. Logically, I believe there should be zero movement, yet no stiffness with the hub in a "steering" motion which would indicate too tight. The kingpin bearings should not be subject to heat that would require a slight give like there is with a wheel bearing, therefore zero tolerance is desired.
Grease? - Yes and no. The bottom can be greased with the zerk fitting I added (see 5:45), but the main purpose is to be able to push grease through it to expel possible dirt or water because the bottom seal is no longer perfect. The top is to be greased then assembled, which is the original design. Apparently JD did not believe it necessary to add grease during the lifetime of the bearings, or that the need is very infrequent. The kingpin bearings only move when steering is turned. In comparison, axle bearings move all of the time, but they are similar in that they are only regreased periodically.
Nice clean tractor.
Explain...you welded the Race to give you a way to grab it in order to pull it out?
You are correct. The race was in a "blind" hole, meaning that there is no way to press from the backside or pry it out. By welding completely around the inside face of the race, when it cooled, the race shrank. The bearing seat, or housing, was unaffected.
Great video. Very informative.
Thanks!
Thanks for the video!
Glad that the information can be useful.
Wondering with that nice machine and indoor shop you don't have air tools, mainly a air hammer to help you get this done? Thanks for the vid. Trying to prep for doing the front axle on my case 580 super k.
The tractor was at property with a roof-only barn. Regarding anything except a portable generator, I didn't think I needed other equipment, so I didn't haul the extras there for the work.
Hi great video, How did you determine whether the shim was required or not?
Good question. I assembled with the shim. When I tested the hub tightness, it was loose. Not terribly loose, but there was up/down play with the hub, which is equal to giving the top of the tire an in/out movement. This would mean that the upper and lower kingpins are too far apart. Remove the shim(s) and re-assemble to test again. Logically, I believe there should be zero movement, yet no stiffness with the hub in a "steering" motion which would indicate too tight. The kingpin bearings should not be subject to heat that would require a slight give like there is with a wheel bearing, therefore zero tolerance is desired.
Not greaseable then?
Grease? - Yes and no. The bottom can be greased with the zerk fitting I added (see 5:45), but the main purpose is to be able to push grease through it to expel possible dirt or water because the bottom seal is no longer perfect. The top is to be greased then assembled, which is the original design. Apparently JD did not believe it necessary to add grease during the lifetime of the bearings, or that the need is very infrequent. The kingpin bearings only move when steering is turned. In comparison, axle bearings move all of the time, but they are similar in that they are only regreased periodically.
Ouch