I have this charger on my 2023 Rockwood fifth wheel and a pair of lithium batteries.I haven’t taken the cover off to see if I have a blue or green light. But on my voltage indicator on my go-power solar charge indicator it’s registering 13.7V to 13.8V. On sunny days with solar kicking in I get 13.8-13.9V. I’m very happy with this. I use shore power to charge batteries and feel like this is real healthy for my batteries. I do notice the fan noise, but it’s not loud or annoying. I’m thinking my Epoch batteries will run like this for 10 years. I agree with you that switching over from a working converter to this auto detection would be a waste on money. But would not be afraid to purchase one if a new converter is needed.
Like a few others who had trouble getting the Blue LED and Lithium mode after installing the Auto Detect converter (my 270Ahr battery was discharged 50% but would not trip into blue LED and Lithium mode). I eventually reached a WFCO tech who also tested the product introduction said it won't go to Lithium mode unless it sees a 30A load for 30 seconds. So I plugged an AC heat gun into my 1000 watt inverter. I carefully adjusted to get around 30A DC pulled from the battery by the inverter powering the heat gun for 30 sec. That worked. Got the blue LED. Don't overdo it or you might trip the inverter breaker. The same WFCO tech said once you have the blue LED it will not go to 14.4V mode unless the DC current draw is at least 20 Amps for a while. You can see this happen in the June 3 2022 video at around 23 Amps. Lastly carefully watching the above video you will notice that when it goes from 13.6 Volts to 14.4 Volts you simultaneously get a red LED on in addition to the blue LED. I am considering sticking a piece of shiny duct tape or reflective adhesive tape on the plastic wall near those LEDs. Might enable me to see what is happening by just kneeling down. The unit can work but it will not give you 14.4 volts unless it your load is around 20 Amps. Also if you have Solar panels keeping the voltage high at the battery, it may not go to 14.4V.
@@LoveYourRV Ray, your video really helped me see that this converter I installed can work for my Lithium battery bank. Many common use scenarios won't necessarily get owners what they expected to see right away. Summer was so hot we always had shore power for the Air Conditioner. A sweaty controlled lab session was unpopular with spouse. Your video evidence, plus the WFCO tech info plus fall weather prompts me to go run a dedicated and controlled test scenario to see if I can duplicate your results. Upcoming I have some camping with no shore power, but before then I will, test this under controlled circumstances to see how well my 2000 watt generator and 190 watt solar panel can replace the approx 60Ahr drain from my (Battleborn GC3 270Ahr) battery I expect during the 12 hour overnight generator curfew of the National Park. Your video covered this better than WFCO or any other related discussion on the web or RUclips. It motivated me to go out and get my own specific data so I will understand in advance how the gear I have today will operate. I decided to try the WFCO Auto Detect Lithium converter rather than a complete Victron Inverter-Charger solution (a bit more than I wanted to undertake all at once with the RV still in warranty) Nice Job! Just subscribed to your channel.
dennis, thanks for the tip! high DC load as you suggest is the key to getting this to go into lithium mode. nice to know you dont need to drain down your battery.
I know this is a year old video now. Your use case exactly matches mine. I need to use by generator to charge and I'd love to maximize my charging for a given amount of generator run time. So far the "auto detect" seems to have every excuse in the world to avoid a proper bulk charge rate. I let my PD charger/converter with a override button for bulk (fast) charge, and a switch for lithium go with my last trailer. I may have to "downgrade" another PD unit with switches and buttons. I agree with you, this auto detect nonsense is just handholding because no supplier wants to trust the RV builders to set a switch. Thanks for the informative video.
I've been anxiously awaiting this follow-up, and the results are almost exactly what I expected. I will be making the switch this year, I suspect. I'm beating my two new flooded cells to death right now. Thank you for posting this!
@@LoveYourRV Thank you for this post! I just upgraded to the WFCO 30amp 'Auto Detect', did an RMA and had the latest 1.20 firmware installed. Wish I had seen some of this information earlier! From what I've read here and elsewhere, the charger will still not behave well with lithium BMS. I have not purchased lithium batteries yet. Are you saying the Lion Energy UT1300 and its BMS will perform well with this charger? I'm still a few days within the return window. Should I consider returning the charger and exploring another option for the charger?
@@ws8592 The lithium auto-detect worked fine for my Lion Energy batteries. The only issue I have is at times, it is in float mode when it should still be in bulk. Since it depends on a voltage reading, I find it can get fooled by my incoming solar charge, raising the voltage level on the battery bank. Makes it think the batteries are charged when they are not. If it was me, I would want the pure lithium charger or one that has a manual control switch, not the auto-detect model. I guess their target market for auto-detect is manufacturers and dealers. They can install one of these units without worrying about the RV end user. If lead-acid type is installed, it works fine, and if lithium, likely eventually through some charge cycles, auto-detect and switches over. Makes it simple for dealers with a ton of new stock on the lot, and no harm can come from having the wrong charger installed or if a not-so-knowledgable customer installs the wrong battery type for the charger.
Hello Ray, Thank you for the update. I have a 8955AD REP installed, I had a blue light and I looked yesterday and the light is now green. I am having trouble charging if on shore power, it won't charge at times. I am on boon docking mode and cannot drain my battery. Do you have any tips on how to get that blue light back on? :-0). If I can get shore power it would be on a regular 15A outlet at friends.
I have the 65 amp model that I was sent. My plan is to mount it in the front with my battery bank for times we get to boondock. We only have 300 watts of solar for our 2 (soon to be 3 lion energy batteries). I was thinking you had done this by mounting a converter up front at some point too? Basically my 60 amp progressive industries that I put in never charges mower than 20-30 amps… mostly 20, and I’m kind of Leary pushing all that juice all the way across the trailer in the factory DC cables. Any thoughts?
Yes, I have a 60 amp Intellipower charger mounted right next to my batteries. It includes the manual Charge Wizard manual boost dongle so I can press that when charging with my generator and bypass the lead acid algorithms output a constant 14.4V which is great for my lithium batteries. I usually see a solid 50+ amps right until they are full charged. Here is a look at it. ruclips.net/video/H6u7mEWjprU/видео.html Cheers, Ray
No, the old converter charger was also rated for 55 amps so the wiring and fusing matched. That's one reason I didn't elect to go for a higher amperage model. Didn't want to have to upgrade the wiring.
Hey thank you for the video. I had a similar issue as your emailer with not detecting lithium. Speaking with tech support they stated that it seems to happen with Renogy (what i am using) and SOK batteries. The full discharge/recharge works and it stays in the correct mode (switched from green to blue led). The behavior i am seeing I don’t like is if my battery is not fully discharged (lets say its 70%) it will want to charge at 10-15amps. I have to trick it by turning on a bunch of loads like all the fans etc and then it will kick in at 50a . Fully discharged it works as expected.
Thanks for sharing you experience, good tip on adding some loads to trigger the 14.6V boost charge voltage. Since the only way the converter can know the state of charge of the batteries is by the voltage sensing it seems to get fooled into 13.6V float mode sometimes. I find that usually happens for me if my solar charger is active pushing up the battery voltage level. I would be nice if they had a manual override button to force it into 14.6V charging for a few hours or even better a Bluetooth app and allow us to set the charging we'd like. Cheers, Ray
I recently purchased the wfco WF-8900-AD as an upgrade for my LiFePO4 batteries. Worked great for 2 weeks, 14.40 volts, The auto detect doesn''t seem to be working today. Batteries at 13.31 (typical for 3 stage). I've sent an email to WFCO hoping for help.
Let me know what that say. I found occasionally that will happen to me. Usually I think its when my solar panels are lifting the voltage a bit so maybe fooling the WFCO into thinking the batteries are nearly full and don't need to be bulk charge so it stays on float voltage. Cheers, Ray
I’m going to lithium iron from AGM. I have an Auto detect converter WFCO WF-9855-AD. 14.6v 55amp. It’s listed as a Lithium Ion charger. Not a Lithium iron phosphate charger. Other Converter/chargers are max out at 16V. So I’m questioning the WFCO product. Thank you for your video and any information.
All the LiFePo4 chargers I've used/tested, both solar and shore power types, have outputted between 14.2 and 14.6 volts. That voltage range seems to charge the LiFePO4 drop-in type 12.8 volt nominal-rated batteries quite well, in my experience. The trick is to have the charger close enough to the battery or large enough gauge wiring between the charge and battery so that the wiring resistance voltage drop isn't too high. Most OEM charger locations and wiring could be better in this regard. ;)
Thanks for this video. A few questions if anyone can help out. I have a WF-8955PEC from 2016 and would like to just swap out with the unit you showed so I can switch to lithium. I'll likely use a single 12 V, 100 ah lithium to replace my lead acid. Can I just drop the new battery in as a replacement without other hardware and configuration changes? If I want to upgrade to 2 lithium batteries, do I have the option to run in parallel or tandem for 12 vs 24 v with this unit?
My advice is to get a dedicated lithium model or one with a manual switch the auto-detect feature can be flakey. Also, the shorter the wire run between the converter charger and batteries, the better they work for charging. They are designed to work with 12V systems. You wouldn't be able to use it as a charger for a 24V battery bank. Cheers, Ray
I am still only getting about 20-amps on our model. Ours is one model older that doesn't have auto-detect, it is the dedicated LIFEPO4 Lithium version. I was blaming the lower output on the 6 Guage ware that Lance installed between the converter and the batteries. It did not matter with lead-acid batteries as the higher resistance of the batteries raised the voltage so the converter had to cut back anyway. That is what I see with my LIFEPO4 version, the converter sees 14.5 volts while the batteries are only seeing 13.8 volts approximately. My next project is to install a 2-gauge wire up to the batteries which is about 18-feet which should lower the associated voltage drop accordingly. At least that is my theory.
@@LoveYourRV As far as I can tell the negative is just a frame ground. It is very difficult to get behind the converter in the kitchen and everything is wire loomed. I place first to try it with a red 2 ga. wire laying on the floor going out the door first. To add to the problem, they mounted the charge controller above the refrigerator which is next to the converter. I rarely see 8-9 amps or more out of my 160-watt roof-mounted array because it is attached at the converter instead of the batter. I put in a 30-amp Victron MPPT charge controller in the front storage compartment along with my inverter. I put my 400-watt ground array wired for 48-volts which doesn't have the voltage drop issue before or after it. I brought 2-ga. wire in from my BB batteries right to my front electronics area. I also but a Victron 25-amp charger there that plugs into my generator so I am getting about 45-amps of charging when my RV is also plugged into my generator. If I was keeping this RV I would do a lot of changes, but as you know as a fellow RVer, changes happen one at a time and eventually, you get to where you want to be, LOL. See ya, Ray! Dave the Beagle lover.
I just wondered because the grounding lug points are often outside the climate-controlled living area so notorious for corroding a bit and creating extra resistance. My 12VDC power center ground return goes via a short 6ga cable and attaches below the floor to the trailer steel I-Beam right near the wheels so is exposed to the elements and water spray. Cheers! Ray
@@LoveYourRV Good points sir and well worth investigating when I get a chance to check it out more carefully. I will let you know if I find anything. A voltage drop is a voltage drop and we like to eliminate them wherever possible. Thanks, sir!
I have found this solution to trick it into lithium mode without draining the batteries down or having to do some large load for 30 secs. I have had to do this several times this winter in OR as the converter seems to just stop maintaining the batteries and they slowly drain down. I have the WF-8955-AD with a 300ah Lithium battery. 1. Disconnect the battery. You can do this with a BMS app if your lithium batteries have that. Or, you can use your battery disconnect switch if you have one. 2. Turn off the converter - you can use the MAIN breaker or the CONV/GEN breaker, or simply unplug from shore power. Wait until your interior 12V lights die - a few seconds. This seems to reset the lithium detect circuitry, similar to draining them as in the WFCO video. This "fools" the converter into thinking your batteries are drained. If you have solar, you might have to disconnect that too if it keeps your lights on with the battery disconnected. 3. Reconnect battery. 4.Now turn the converter back on. In my case I have a current meter so I can see that the batteries are charging again. I know it is in lithium mode as the batteries always charge back to 100%.
I found with my rig when on hookups for an extended time the battery bank will end up draining down to about 53% and sit there which is perfect for long term lithium storage. Unlike lead acid batteries you wouldn't want the lithium batteries sitting a 100% for months on end. Supposedly that will reduce the overall lifespan somewhat.
Mark, I have the wf 8955, Victron MPPT 75/15 and 1 Battleborn Lithium battery. I tried your trick, both with solar charge on and off. No luck. any suggestions would be appreciated. Did the firmware update fix the problem. My trailer is a new TAB 400, so I am still under warranty if it comes to that. Thanks.
Dave I am running into the same problems. I have 2 renogy 100AH batteries, last year I managed to get the converter to give me a blue light and everything worked great, I contacted WFCO they told me to bring the batteries down to 10%SOC or 11V. After talking to renogy they dont want you bringing the batteries lower than 20%SOC. This year I plugged into shore power and back to square one its giving me the green light again and weak amperage, so I brought my batteries back down to 10% and no luck still giving me the green light. After being frustrated with this product I will be changing the charger out.
@@tylerphilion4107 I left 5 messages with them, no one was ever there. I also emailed and filled out the warranty claim, never got any reply. So, it seems amazing you talked to them. Oddly, with the warmer weather I have had no problems, mine seems to only go into lead acid mode in the winter, so I think I can live with it.
Based on reviews, user comments, and WFCO’s customer service techs, I’d say their use of the term “Auto Detect” and their associated sticker is somewhere between stretching the truth, false advertising, or a flat out lie. The sticker and manual imply that it’s easy to switch back and forth between Lead Acid and Lithium. The manual makes no mention of needing to fully deplete the battery before a full charge cycle, limiting charging amps without large amperage loads, etc. Their new LIS series with an actual manual switch between Lithium and Lead Acid seems like a more reliable solution.
My theories. Seems like an effort to dummy proof it so it can be installed for new RV sales. Then they can also boast lithium ready. Most end users aren't technically minded enough to count on not running in Li mode manually and ruining lead acid batteries by over charging. If a lead acid its over charged it can vent excess gases and leak corrosive acid. Something the manufactures want to avoid for sure. Thus this type of dual auto detect charger gets installed to simplify the manufacturing. 90% of buyers will have no clue anyway I'd guess and RV lots don't have to worry if the switch is in the right position After market users/ boondockers should go with a manual switch if having both Li and LA charging is required. No compelling reason to want an auto detect that I can think of. It also may work more as advertised if mounted close to the lithium batteries with large gauge cables to eliminate wire resistance fooling the smart detect circuitry. I imagine peoples experiences with the auto detect will vary wildly depending on RV wiring and component/battery placement in a wide variety of rigs. Cheers, Ray
@@williamrizzo1285 Here is one - WFCO WF-9855-LIS Deck Mount Converter/Charger with Lithium-Ion Switch - 55A amzn.to/3xQQghR wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-9855lis-deck-mount-converter-charger/ WF-9855LiS Deck Mount Converter Charger The WF-9855LiS Deck Mount Converter Charger is the first deck mount converter charger in the WFCO lineup designed with a remote switch feature for both lead-acid and lithium-ion batteries. The “remote switching” feature allows for a switch to be installed at any location preferred by the end user. Easy wiring and hookup with a WAGO connection on the back for any switch style.
I ran across this thread, I guess RUclips sensed my frustration. I have a brand spanking new Airstream. I installed 400Ah of lithium, tried drawing them down to get the lithium blue light, no luck. WFCO tech support said to isolate to a single battery and drain it. I finally got that to work. Ugghh, what a PIA. Furthermore, it was only putting out 10A when I connected my other batteries, which were at about 40%. I'm pitching it for a Victron, same as my other equipment. I understand there's a PD model that is also good (and less expensive than the Victron).
My 2023 has the 8955-AD. I Feel WFCO needs to go back to the built in switch to select Lithium only. I’ve read a lot of the literature and yes you can do things to make this unit go back into Lithium mode. But that’s so wrong that we must do this or look for the blue light. I looking for a Lithium only Converter/Charger. You also did not show the voltage at each battery. Full charge with No Load or charging should About 14.6. If not batteries are not balanced or full charged.
My advice is to look at installing an inverter/charger close to the batteries. All the latest inverters/chargers do a good job charging lithium. If you already have an inverter, then there are numerous lithium chargers on the market now; just make sure to install it close to the batteries for best results. Most problems with these OEM converter installs arise from too long of wire runs with undersized gauges between batteries and chargers. Cheers, Ray
I carry a 2000W Energizer brand. 1600W continuous. Its nice and light at 44 lbs. and pretty small so can store in my truck tool chest. It's main purpose is to charge my batteries if the solar power isn't good.
Yes, It's not a great solution as there are so many variables with wire length, voltage drop, and other chargers on the same circuit that may be present. If it was me I'd get a manual switch if I really needed to use different battery types.
I see models listed on the WFCO website that have manual switch and lithium only. wfcoelectronics.com/product-category/converters/wf-9800-series/page/2/ Here is a switched 55 amps wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-9855lis-deck-mount-converter-charger/ WF-9855LiS Deck Mount Converter Charger Lithium Switch Installation Instructions wfcoelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/WF-9800LiS-Switch-Installation-Instructions.pdf
@@LoveYourRV the LiS models that were size-compatible with different series are not being made. For those of us struggling with WFCO auto-detect issues, Progressive Dynamics has switched models that can be installed as equivalents. I want to bypass my WFCO 8725-AD's charging and use a Victron charger with Bluetooth instead.
It flat out doesn’t work. Mine is stuck in lead acid mode. Tried the full drain, nothing has worked. I’ve gone to using a stand alone charger. So disappointed in the product and no way to get it fixed without sending it back. Piece of crap.
Did you try placing the battery right next to the converter with short cables? It may do the trick. Some RVs have too thin of battery wiring across long distances. Manufacturers love to cheap out on the wiring. Also, poor connections especially a frame ground point can cause issues because of excessive voltage drop fooling the auto detect. Cheers, Ray
amzn.to/39F5bTI I see the manual switchable wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-9855lis/ wfcoelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/WF-9800LiS-Switch-Installation-Instructions.pdf To operate the converter modes Using Switch: If switch is open, then the converter will be in the lead/acid mode and the output voltage will read 13.2 vdc to 13.6 vdc If the switch is closed, then the converter will be in the lithium mode and the output voltage will read approx. 14.6 vdc.
The AutoDetect feature of my new WF-8955-AD did NOT detect my two 100 ah LiFePO4 batteries, The charging profile did not change to properly charge the LiFePO4 batteries and remained in the far slower, lower voltage lead acid mode. I just found a WFCO Tech Support video that says we have to FULLY discharge the LiFePO4 batteries (to 3%, far below the recommended discharge floor for most LiFePO4 batteries...), remove the converter from the enclosure so you can see some LED lights, turn off the main circuit, hook up to shore power, turn on the converter until you see a certain color LED, turn the system back off, turn it back on and hope that another color LED shows and then hope that it "auto-detected" the correct charge profile! All this for a converter advertised as "No more buttons. No more switches. RV owners will have the peace of mind that their batteries will be accurately charged, eliminating over and undercharging risks. Additionally, battery life will be maximized with multi-stage charging and current monitoring in both lead acid and lithium profiles."!!! BTW, I am color-blind and have a hard time determining the color of LED lights... Here is the WFCO tech support video that shows how to "trick" their "auto-detect" system: ruclips.net/video/-pFuVnUsPz4/видео.html
Yeah, seems it needs a full discharge charge cycle so it can recognize between the lead acid charge/discharge curves and the lithium. Guess it will recognize the differing current and voltage behaviors between the battery types. If set for lithium on a lead acid battery it could lead to overcharging and gassing, so guess it has to be sure that the batteries are indeed lithium. A lead acid charge profile can't hurt a lithium but a lithium one could cause over charging issues with lead acid. btw, not sure what battery brand you have but I've found most properly designed drop in replacement LiFePO batteries can be discharged 100%. Most BMS boards (Battery Monitor System) have low voltage disconnect protection so the lithium cells don't get damaged. I've fully discharged dozens of this type of batteries when doing capacity tests with no ill effects. Here is what a popular battery maker called Battle Born says on their Charging/Discharging FAQ battlebornbatteries.com/faq/ "Most lead acid batteries experience a significantly reduced cycle life if they are discharged more than 50%. That can result in less than 300 total cycles. Conversely, LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) batteries can be continually discharged to 100% and there is no long-term effect. You can expect to easily get 3000 - 5000 cycles at this depth of discharge." Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV The "remove the converter from the enclosure so you can see some LED lights" and the "you have to cycle the AC twice hoping to get a specific color LED light" parts are the bigger issues... How can they claim it is "auto-detect" if you have to open and "trick" their converter into doing what they advertise as "automatic"?
I guess their target market for auto-detect is manufacturers and dealers. They can install one of these units without worrying about the RV end user. If lead-acid type is installed, it works fine, and if lithium, likely eventually through some charge cycles, auto-detect and switches over. Makes it simple for dealers with a ton of new stock on the lot, and no harm can come from having the wrong charger installed or if a not-so-knowledgable customer installs the wrong battery type for the charger. For the aftermarket DIY crowd, they will likely either buy a dedicated Li charger or one with manual switches.
@@LoveYourRV I feel we have been defrauded by a claim of auto-detection that in the real world does not truly auto-detect LiFePO4 batteries. I have asked for a refund or replacement with a LIS series with the switch. I tried to buy the switched version instead of the auto-0detect version, but in three months of trying I did not found anyone with one actually in stock.
The lithium auto-detect worked fine for my Lion Energy batteries. The only issue I have is at times, it is in float mode when it should still be in bulk. Since it depends on a voltage reading, I find it can get fooled by my incoming solar charge, raising the voltage level on the battery bank. Makes it think the batteries are charged when they are not. Here is another brand option for you if you desire a dual battery type converter. Get a refund from WFCO and buy an Iota www.iotaengineering.com/products/detail/1185687/iota/dls-55a-converter-and-charger/55-amp-acdc-power-converter-and-battery-charger-for-dc-load-operation-and-12v-battery-charging with IQ4 lead acid 4 stage charging ruclips.net/video/xoyZ3dVvWV0/видео.html then get its IQ4 LIFEPO Smart Charge Controller www.iotaengineering.com/products/detail/1195178/iota/iq4-lifepo-smart-charge-controller/2-stage-smart-charge-controller-for-the-iota-dls-to-use-with-lithium-ion-batteries-with-bms
Supposedly there is new firmware that solves the detection problem. I have been trying to contact WFCO for a week with no response to emails or phone. Hopefully I can get this done, but sure is a pain to uninstall and send it back to get the updated firmware.
@@LoveYourRV Yes, that would be much preferred !! If you look around the web on some RV forums you will see a lot of people like me having this problem. Someone even said they were getting a lawsuit started. BTW, I had no problems over a two week RV trip last summer, until I got home and I noticed the loud fan did not come on - that is the first time I fooled it. Having the RV just sitting for months plugged in it just keeps happening. So, seems like some discharge is needed in normal operation for it to autodetect. What's crazy is they suggest in their video you need to drain it down to
I guess their target market for auto-detect model is manufacturers and dealers not really the end user. They can install one of these units without worrying. If lead-acid type is installed, it works fine, and if lithium, likely eventually through some charge cycles, it hopefully auto-detects and switches over. Makes it simple for dealers with a ton of new stock on the lot, and no harm can come from having the wrong charger installed or if a not-so-knowledgable customer installs the wrong battery type for the charger. If they were to install manual switch converters OEM and it was set for lithium it could end up ruining lead acid batteries by overcharging which can also make boil over and over gas. And I guess its too much extra work for dealers to be asking customers and installing the right converter. So this is their best solution they have come up with. Likely works for them as 95% of RV owners have no clue about a converter anyway. :) So they count on DIYers and hard core boondockers to figure things out for themselves.
I don't think the auto detect will ever be able to work that well. Too many variations in RV wiring, batteries and other equipment like solar installed. Best thing I can recommend for that 5% to do is buy a second charger that can be specifically set for lithium, install it right near the battery bank and use it for charging off-grid with the generator. Give up on the auto detect. That's what I've done and works well for those times that I don't get enough sun for solar to do the charging job.
I have this charger on my 2023 Rockwood fifth wheel and a pair of lithium batteries.I haven’t taken the cover off to see if I have a blue or green light. But on my voltage indicator on my go-power solar charge indicator it’s registering 13.7V to 13.8V. On sunny days with solar kicking in I get 13.8-13.9V. I’m very happy with this. I use shore power to charge batteries and feel like this is real healthy for my batteries. I do notice the fan noise, but it’s not loud or annoying. I’m thinking my Epoch batteries will run like this for 10 years. I agree with you that switching over from a working converter to this auto detection would be a waste on money. But would not be afraid to purchase one if a new converter is needed.
*Link to original installation and review video* - www.loveyourrv.com/wfco-electronics-auto-detect-lithium-or-lead-acid-converter-charger/
Like a few others who had trouble getting the Blue LED and Lithium mode after installing the Auto Detect converter (my 270Ahr battery was discharged 50% but would not trip into blue LED and Lithium mode).
I eventually reached a WFCO tech who also tested the product introduction said it won't go to Lithium mode unless it sees a 30A load for 30 seconds. So I plugged an AC heat gun into my 1000 watt inverter. I carefully adjusted to get around 30A DC pulled from the battery by the inverter powering the heat gun for 30 sec. That worked. Got the blue LED. Don't overdo it or you might trip the inverter breaker.
The same WFCO tech said once you have the blue LED it will not go to 14.4V mode unless the DC current draw is at least 20 Amps for a while. You can see this happen in the June 3 2022 video at around 23 Amps.
Lastly carefully watching the above video you will notice that when it goes from 13.6 Volts to 14.4 Volts you simultaneously get a red LED on in addition to the blue LED.
I am considering sticking a piece of shiny duct tape or reflective adhesive tape on the plastic wall near those LEDs. Might enable me to see what is happening by just kneeling down.
The unit can work but it will not give you 14.4 volts unless it your load is around 20 Amps. Also if you have Solar panels keeping the voltage high at the battery, it may not go to 14.4V.
Thanks for sharing this information! Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Ray, your video really helped me see that this converter I installed can work for my Lithium battery bank. Many common use scenarios won't necessarily get owners what they expected to see right away. Summer was so hot we always had shore power for the Air Conditioner. A sweaty controlled lab session was unpopular with spouse. Your video evidence, plus the WFCO tech info plus fall weather prompts me to go run a dedicated and controlled test scenario to see if I can duplicate your results. Upcoming I have some camping with no shore power, but before then I will, test this under controlled circumstances to see how well my 2000 watt generator and 190 watt solar panel can replace the approx 60Ahr drain from my (Battleborn GC3 270Ahr) battery I expect during the 12 hour overnight generator curfew of the National Park. Your video covered this better than WFCO or any other related discussion on the web or RUclips. It motivated me to go out and get my own specific data so I will understand in advance how the gear I have today will operate. I decided to try the WFCO Auto Detect Lithium converter rather than a complete Victron Inverter-Charger solution (a bit more than I wanted to undertake all at once with the RV still in warranty) Nice Job! Just subscribed to your channel.
dennis, thanks for the tip! high DC load as you suggest is the key to getting this to go into lithium mode. nice to know you dont need to drain down your battery.
I know this is a year old video now. Your use case exactly matches mine. I need to use by generator to charge and I'd love to maximize my charging for a given amount of generator run time. So far the "auto detect" seems to have every excuse in the world to avoid a proper bulk charge rate. I let my PD charger/converter with a override button for bulk (fast) charge, and a switch for lithium go with my last trailer. I may have to "downgrade" another PD unit with switches and buttons. I agree with you, this auto detect nonsense is just handholding because no supplier wants to trust the RV builders to set a switch. Thanks for the informative video.
I've been anxiously awaiting this follow-up, and the results are almost exactly what I expected. I will be making the switch this year, I suspect. I'm beating my two new flooded cells to death right now. Thank you for posting this!
You're most welcome. :)
This is good to know when I am ready to upgrade. Thanks for the great video.
I purchased a WFCO drop in lithium/converter replacement for my 2011 Airstream. Works very well for the new lithium batteries.
Thanks for the video. Can you tell me which brand of lithium batteries you are using with the WFCO ad converter.
Lion Energy model UT1300
@@LoveYourRV Thank you for this post! I just upgraded to the WFCO 30amp 'Auto Detect', did an RMA and had the latest 1.20 firmware installed. Wish I had seen some of this information earlier! From what I've read here and elsewhere, the charger will still not behave well with lithium BMS. I have not purchased lithium batteries yet. Are you saying the Lion Energy UT1300 and its BMS will perform well with this charger? I'm still a few days within the return window. Should I consider returning the charger and exploring another option for the charger?
@@ws8592 The lithium auto-detect worked fine for my Lion Energy batteries. The only issue I have is at times, it is in float mode when it should still be in bulk. Since it depends on a voltage reading, I find it can get fooled by my incoming solar charge, raising the voltage level on the battery bank. Makes it think the batteries are charged when they are not. If it was me, I would want the pure lithium charger or one that has a manual control switch, not the auto-detect model.
I guess their target market for auto-detect is manufacturers and dealers. They can install one of these units without worrying about the RV end user. If lead-acid type is installed, it works fine, and if lithium, likely eventually through some charge cycles, auto-detect and switches over. Makes it simple for dealers with a ton of new stock on the lot, and no harm can come from having the wrong charger installed or if a not-so-knowledgable customer installs the wrong battery type for the charger.
Hello Ray, Thank you for the update. I have a 8955AD REP installed, I had a blue light and I looked yesterday and the light is now green. I am having trouble charging if on shore power, it won't charge at times. I am on boon docking mode and cannot drain my battery. Do you have any tips on how to get that blue light back on? :-0). If I can get shore power it would be on a regular 15A outlet at friends.
I found it I use a high wattage load for a few minutes like a microwave that caused the voltage to drop it would switch over to lithium mode.
@@LoveYourRVok I will try my heat gun since I don’t have a microwave. I only have a 1000W inverter. Will experiment on next sunny day. Thank you very.
I have the 65 amp model that I was sent. My plan is to mount it in the front with my battery bank for times we get to boondock. We only have 300 watts of solar for our 2 (soon to be 3 lion energy batteries). I was thinking you had done this by mounting a converter up front at some point too? Basically my 60 amp progressive industries that I put in never charges mower than 20-30 amps… mostly 20, and I’m kind of Leary pushing all that juice all the way across the trailer in the factory DC cables. Any thoughts?
Yes, I have a 60 amp Intellipower charger mounted right next to my batteries. It includes the manual Charge Wizard manual boost dongle so I can press that when charging with my generator and bypass the lead acid algorithms output a constant 14.4V which is great for my lithium batteries. I usually see a solid 50+ amps right until they are full charged. Here is a look at it. ruclips.net/video/H6u7mEWjprU/видео.html Cheers, Ray
Thanks for the update.
Always appreciated.
Did you have to upgrade your wires from the converter to the battery?
No, the old converter charger was also rated for 55 amps so the wiring and fusing matched. That's one reason I didn't elect to go for a higher amperage model. Didn't want to have to upgrade the wiring.
@@LoveYourRV smart decision
I'm looking at doing the same thing. I'm currently using a NOCO Genius lithium battery charger.
Hey thank you for the video. I had a similar issue as your emailer with not detecting lithium. Speaking with tech support they stated that it seems to happen with Renogy (what i am using) and SOK batteries. The full discharge/recharge works and it stays in the correct mode (switched from green to blue led). The behavior i am seeing I don’t like is if my battery is not fully
discharged (lets say its 70%) it will want to charge at 10-15amps. I have to trick it by turning on a bunch of loads like all the fans etc and then it will kick in at 50a . Fully discharged it works as expected.
Thanks for sharing you experience, good tip on adding some loads to trigger the 14.6V boost charge voltage. Since the only way the converter can know the state of charge of the batteries is by the voltage sensing it seems to get fooled into 13.6V float mode sometimes. I find that usually happens for me if my solar charger is active pushing up the battery voltage level. I would be nice if they had a manual override button to force it into 14.6V charging for a few hours or even better a Bluetooth app and allow us to set the charging we'd like. Cheers, Ray
Forgot to mention it takes a few min before it senses it needs to move into bulk using the load trick.
Thanks Ray for the update!!
I recently purchased the wfco WF-8900-AD as an upgrade for my LiFePO4 batteries. Worked great for 2 weeks, 14.40 volts, The auto detect doesn''t seem to be working today. Batteries at 13.31 (typical for 3 stage). I've sent an email to WFCO hoping for help.
Let me know what that say. I found occasionally that will happen to me. Usually I think its when my solar panels are lifting the voltage a bit so maybe fooling the WFCO into thinking the batteries are nearly full and don't need to be bulk charge so it stays on float voltage. Cheers, Ray
Good follow up Ray, Thanks.
I’m going to lithium iron from AGM. I have an Auto detect converter WFCO WF-9855-AD. 14.6v 55amp. It’s listed as a Lithium Ion charger. Not a Lithium iron phosphate charger. Other Converter/chargers are max out at 16V. So I’m questioning the WFCO product. Thank you for your video and any information.
All the LiFePo4 chargers I've used/tested, both solar and shore power types, have outputted between 14.2 and 14.6 volts. That voltage range seems to charge the LiFePO4 drop-in type 12.8 volt nominal-rated batteries quite well, in my experience. The trick is to have the charger close enough to the battery or large enough gauge wiring between the charge and battery so that the wiring resistance voltage drop isn't too high. Most OEM charger locations and wiring could be better in this regard. ;)
Thanks for this video. A few questions if anyone can help out. I have a WF-8955PEC from 2016 and would like to just swap out with the unit you showed so I can switch to lithium. I'll likely use a single 12 V, 100 ah lithium to replace my lead acid. Can I just drop the new battery in as a replacement without other hardware and configuration changes? If I want to upgrade to 2 lithium batteries, do I have the option to run in parallel or tandem for 12 vs 24 v with this unit?
My advice is to get a dedicated lithium model or one with a manual switch the auto-detect feature can be flakey. Also, the shorter the wire run between the converter charger and batteries, the better they work for charging.
They are designed to work with 12V systems. You wouldn't be able to use it as a charger for a 24V battery bank. Cheers, Ray
I am still only getting about 20-amps on our model. Ours is one model older that doesn't have auto-detect, it is the dedicated LIFEPO4 Lithium version. I was blaming the lower output on the 6 Guage ware that Lance installed between the converter and the batteries. It did not matter with lead-acid batteries as the higher resistance of the batteries raised the voltage so the converter had to cut back anyway. That is what I see with my LIFEPO4 version, the converter sees 14.5 volts while the batteries are only seeing 13.8 volts approximately. My next project is to install a 2-gauge wire up to the batteries which is about 18-feet which should lower the associated voltage drop accordingly. At least that is my theory.
Interesting, let me know if that solves the issue. btw, is the 6 gauge wire run using a frame return for the negative, or is it another 6 gauge wire?
@@LoveYourRV As far as I can tell the negative is just a frame ground. It is very difficult to get behind the converter in the kitchen and everything is wire loomed. I place first to try it with a red 2 ga. wire laying on the floor going out the door first.
To add to the problem, they mounted the charge controller above the refrigerator which is next to the converter. I rarely see 8-9 amps or more out of my 160-watt roof-mounted array because it is attached at the converter instead of the batter. I put in a 30-amp Victron MPPT charge controller in the front storage compartment along with my inverter. I put my 400-watt ground array wired for 48-volts which doesn't have the voltage drop issue before or after it. I brought 2-ga. wire in from my BB batteries right to my front electronics area. I also but a Victron 25-amp charger there that plugs into my generator so I am getting about 45-amps of charging when my RV is also plugged into my generator. If I was keeping this RV I would do a lot of changes, but as you know as a fellow RVer, changes happen one at a time and eventually, you get to where you want to be, LOL. See ya, Ray! Dave the Beagle lover.
I just wondered because the grounding lug points are often outside the climate-controlled living area so notorious for corroding a bit and creating extra resistance. My 12VDC power center ground return goes via a short 6ga cable and attaches below the floor to the trailer steel I-Beam right near the wheels so is exposed to the elements and water spray. Cheers! Ray
@@LoveYourRV Good points sir and well worth investigating when I get a chance to check it out more carefully. I will let you know if I find anything. A voltage drop is a voltage drop and we like to eliminate them wherever possible. Thanks, sir!
WFCO says we have to "trick" the converter to get their auto-detection feature to work!!!
ruclips.net/video/-pFuVnUsPz4/видео.html
I have found this solution to trick it into lithium mode without draining the batteries down or having to do some large load for 30 secs. I have had to do this several times this winter in OR as the converter seems to just stop maintaining the batteries and they slowly drain down. I have the WF-8955-AD with a 300ah Lithium battery. 1. Disconnect the battery. You can do this with a BMS app if your lithium batteries have that. Or, you can use your battery disconnect switch if you have one. 2. Turn off the converter - you can use the MAIN breaker or the CONV/GEN breaker, or simply unplug from shore power. Wait until your interior 12V lights die - a few seconds. This seems to reset the lithium detect circuitry, similar to draining them as in the WFCO video. This "fools" the converter into thinking your batteries are drained. If you have solar, you might have to disconnect that too if it keeps your lights on with the battery disconnected. 3. Reconnect battery. 4.Now turn the converter back on. In my case I have a current meter so I can see that the batteries are charging again. I know it is in lithium mode as the batteries always charge back to 100%.
I found with my rig when on hookups for an extended time the battery bank will end up draining down to about 53% and sit there which is perfect for long term lithium storage. Unlike lead acid batteries you wouldn't want the lithium batteries sitting a 100% for months on end. Supposedly that will reduce the overall lifespan somewhat.
Mark, I have the wf 8955, Victron MPPT 75/15 and 1 Battleborn Lithium battery. I tried your trick, both with solar charge on and off. No luck. any suggestions would be appreciated. Did the firmware update fix the problem. My trailer is a new TAB 400, so I am still under warranty if it comes to that. Thanks.
Dave I am running into the same problems. I have 2 renogy 100AH batteries, last year I managed to get the converter to give me a blue light and everything worked great, I contacted WFCO they told me to bring the batteries down to 10%SOC or 11V. After talking to renogy they dont want you bringing the batteries lower than 20%SOC. This year I plugged into shore power and back to square one its giving me the green light again and weak amperage, so I brought my batteries back down to 10% and no luck still giving me the green light. After being frustrated with this product I will be changing the charger out.
@@tylerphilion4107 I left 5 messages with them, no one was ever there. I also emailed and filled out the warranty claim, never got any reply. So, it seems amazing you talked to them. Oddly, with the warmer weather I have had no problems, mine seems to only go into lead acid mode in the winter, so I think I can live with it.
Ok went back and watched the other vid. guess I missed that. helpful, thx
Based on reviews, user comments, and WFCO’s customer service techs, I’d say their use of the term “Auto Detect” and their associated sticker is somewhere between stretching the truth, false advertising, or a flat out lie. The sticker and manual imply that it’s easy to switch back and forth between Lead Acid and Lithium. The manual makes no mention of needing to fully deplete the battery before a full charge cycle, limiting charging amps without large amperage loads, etc. Their new LIS series with an actual manual switch between Lithium and Lead Acid seems like a more reliable solution.
My theories. Seems like an effort to dummy proof it so it can be installed for new RV sales. Then they can also boast lithium ready. Most end users aren't technically minded enough to count on not running in Li mode manually and ruining lead acid batteries by over charging. If a lead acid its over charged it can vent excess gases and leak corrosive acid. Something the manufactures want to avoid for sure.
Thus this type of dual auto detect charger gets installed to simplify the manufacturing. 90% of buyers will have no clue anyway I'd guess and RV lots don't have to worry if the switch is in the right position
After market users/ boondockers should go with a manual switch if having both Li and LA charging is required. No compelling reason to want an auto detect that I can think of.
It also may work more as advertised if mounted close to the lithium batteries with large gauge cables to eliminate wire resistance fooling the smart detect circuitry. I imagine peoples experiences with the auto detect will vary wildly depending on RV wiring and component/battery placement in a wide variety of rigs. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV totally agree
I am told they no longer make the manual switch version.
@@williamrizzo1285 Here is one - WFCO WF-9855-LIS Deck Mount Converter/Charger with Lithium-Ion Switch - 55A amzn.to/3xQQghR
wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-9855lis-deck-mount-converter-charger/
WF-9855LiS Deck Mount Converter Charger
The WF-9855LiS Deck Mount Converter Charger is the first deck mount converter charger in the WFCO lineup designed with a remote switch feature for both lead-acid and lithium-ion batteries. The “remote switching” feature allows for a switch to be installed at any location preferred by the end user. Easy wiring and hookup with a WAGO connection on the back for any switch style.
I ran across this thread, I guess RUclips sensed my frustration. I have a brand spanking new Airstream. I installed 400Ah of lithium, tried drawing them down to get the lithium blue light, no luck. WFCO tech support said to isolate to a single battery and drain it. I finally got that to work. Ugghh, what a PIA. Furthermore, it was only putting out 10A when I connected my other batteries, which were at about 40%. I'm pitching it for a Victron, same as my other equipment. I understand there's a PD model that is also good (and less expensive than the Victron).
My 2023 has the 8955-AD. I Feel WFCO needs to go back to the built in switch to select Lithium only. I’ve read a lot of the literature and yes you can do things to make this unit go back into Lithium mode. But that’s so wrong that we must do this or look for the blue light. I looking for a Lithium only Converter/Charger. You also did not show the voltage at each battery. Full charge with No Load or charging should About 14.6. If not batteries are not balanced or full charged.
My advice is to look at installing an inverter/charger close to the batteries. All the latest inverters/chargers do a good job charging lithium. If you already have an inverter, then there are numerous lithium chargers on the market now; just make sure to install it close to the batteries for best results. Most problems with these OEM converter installs arise from too long of wire runs with undersized gauges between batteries and chargers. Cheers, Ray
Keep up the good work
how big is you generator ? , i use a Firman 3650 ir gen
I carry a 2000W Energizer brand. 1600W continuous. Its nice and light at 44 lbs. and pretty small so can store in my truck tool chest. It's main purpose is to charge my batteries if the solar power isn't good.
Thanks god bless
Good information
so what you are saying is, the autodetect isn't exactly automatic
Yes, It's not a great solution as there are so many variables with wire length, voltage drop, and other chargers on the same circuit that may be present. If it was me I'd get a manual switch if I really needed to use different battery types.
Good review. Looks like they are only selling auto detect now
I see models listed on the WFCO website that have manual switch and lithium only. wfcoelectronics.com/product-category/converters/wf-9800-series/page/2/
Here is a switched 55 amps wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-9855lis-deck-mount-converter-charger/ WF-9855LiS Deck Mount Converter Charger Lithium Switch Installation Instructions wfcoelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/WF-9800LiS-Switch-Installation-Instructions.pdf
@@LoveYourRV the LiS models that were size-compatible with different series are not being made. For those of us struggling with WFCO auto-detect issues, Progressive Dynamics has switched models that can be installed as equivalents. I want to bypass my WFCO 8725-AD's charging and use a Victron charger with Bluetooth instead.
It flat out doesn’t work. Mine is stuck in lead acid mode. Tried the full drain, nothing has worked. I’ve gone to using a stand alone charger. So disappointed in the product and no way to get it fixed without sending it back. Piece of crap.
Did you try placing the battery right next to the converter with short cables? It may do the trick. Some RVs have too thin of battery wiring across long distances. Manufacturers love to cheap out on the wiring. Also, poor connections especially a frame ground point can cause issues because of excessive voltage drop fooling the auto detect. Cheers, Ray
Not available from amazon in Canada unfortunately
amzn.to/39F5bTI I see the manual switchable wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-9855lis/ wfcoelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/WF-9800LiS-Switch-Installation-Instructions.pdf
To operate the converter modes Using Switch:
If switch is open, then the converter will be in the lead/acid mode
and the output voltage will read 13.2 vdc to 13.6 vdc If the switch
is closed, then the converter will be in the lithium mode and the
output voltage will read approx. 14.6 vdc.
The AutoDetect feature of my new WF-8955-AD did NOT detect my two 100 ah LiFePO4 batteries, The charging profile did not change to properly charge the LiFePO4 batteries and remained in the far slower, lower voltage lead acid mode. I just found a WFCO Tech Support video that says we have to FULLY discharge the LiFePO4 batteries (to 3%, far below the recommended discharge floor for most LiFePO4 batteries...), remove the converter from the enclosure so you can see some LED lights, turn off the main circuit, hook up to shore power, turn on the converter until you see a certain color LED, turn the system back off, turn it back on and hope that another color LED shows and then hope that it "auto-detected" the correct charge profile! All this for a converter advertised as "No more buttons. No more switches. RV owners will have the peace of mind that their batteries will be accurately charged, eliminating over and undercharging risks. Additionally, battery life will be maximized with multi-stage charging and current monitoring in both lead acid and lithium profiles."!!!
BTW, I am color-blind and have a hard time determining the color of LED lights...
Here is the WFCO tech support video that shows how to "trick" their "auto-detect" system:
ruclips.net/video/-pFuVnUsPz4/видео.html
Yeah, seems it needs a full discharge charge cycle so it can recognize between the lead acid charge/discharge curves and the lithium. Guess it will recognize the differing current and voltage behaviors between the battery types. If set for lithium on a lead acid battery it could lead to overcharging and gassing, so guess it has to be sure that the batteries are indeed lithium. A lead acid charge profile can't hurt a lithium but a lithium one could cause over charging issues with lead acid.
btw, not sure what battery brand you have but I've found most properly designed drop in replacement LiFePO batteries can be discharged 100%. Most BMS boards (Battery Monitor System) have low voltage disconnect protection so the lithium cells don't get damaged. I've fully discharged dozens of this type of batteries when doing capacity tests with no ill effects. Here is what a popular battery maker called Battle Born says on their Charging/Discharging FAQ battlebornbatteries.com/faq/
"Most lead acid batteries experience a significantly reduced cycle life if they are discharged more than 50%. That can result in less than 300 total cycles.
Conversely, LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) batteries can be continually discharged to 100% and there is no long-term effect. You can expect to easily get 3000 - 5000 cycles at this depth of discharge." Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV The "remove the converter from the enclosure so you can see some LED lights" and the "you have to cycle the AC twice hoping to get a specific color LED light" parts are the bigger issues... How can they claim it is "auto-detect" if you have to open and "trick" their converter into doing what they advertise as "automatic"?
I guess their target market for auto-detect is manufacturers and dealers. They can install one of these units without worrying about the RV end user. If lead-acid type is installed, it works fine, and if lithium, likely eventually through some charge cycles, auto-detect and switches over. Makes it simple for dealers with a ton of new stock on the lot, and no harm can come from having the wrong charger installed or if a not-so-knowledgable customer installs the wrong battery type for the charger.
For the aftermarket DIY crowd, they will likely either buy a dedicated Li charger or one with manual switches.
@@LoveYourRV I feel we have been defrauded by a claim of auto-detection that in the real world does not truly auto-detect LiFePO4 batteries. I have asked for a refund or replacement with a LIS series with the switch. I tried to buy the switched version instead of the auto-0detect version, but in three months of trying I did not found anyone with one actually in stock.
The lithium auto-detect worked fine for my Lion Energy batteries. The only issue I have is at times, it is in float mode when it should still be in bulk. Since it depends on a voltage reading, I find it can get fooled by my incoming solar charge, raising the voltage level on the battery bank. Makes it think the batteries are charged when they are not.
Here is another brand option for you if you desire a dual battery type converter. Get a refund from WFCO and buy an Iota www.iotaengineering.com/products/detail/1185687/iota/dls-55a-converter-and-charger/55-amp-acdc-power-converter-and-battery-charger-for-dc-load-operation-and-12v-battery-charging with IQ4 lead acid 4 stage charging ruclips.net/video/xoyZ3dVvWV0/видео.html then get its IQ4 LIFEPO Smart Charge Controller www.iotaengineering.com/products/detail/1195178/iota/iq4-lifepo-smart-charge-controller/2-stage-smart-charge-controller-for-the-iota-dls-to-use-with-lithium-ion-batteries-with-bms
Supposedly there is new firmware that solves the detection problem. I have been trying to contact WFCO for a week with no response to emails or phone. Hopefully I can get this done, but sure is a pain to uninstall and send it back to get the updated firmware.
If I was sending it back I would see if they would send out a manual switched one instead of the auto detect model
@@LoveYourRV Yes, that would be much preferred !! If you look around the web on some RV forums you will see a lot of people like me having this problem. Someone even said they were getting a lawsuit started. BTW, I had no problems over a two week RV trip last summer, until I got home and I noticed the loud fan did not come on - that is the first time I fooled it. Having the RV just sitting for months plugged in it just keeps happening. So, seems like some discharge is needed in normal operation for it to autodetect. What's crazy is they suggest in their video you need to drain it down to
I guess their target market for auto-detect model is manufacturers and dealers not really the end user. They can install one of these units without worrying. If lead-acid type is installed, it works fine, and if lithium, likely eventually through some charge cycles, it hopefully auto-detects and switches over. Makes it simple for dealers with a ton of new stock on the lot, and no harm can come from having the wrong charger installed or if a not-so-knowledgable customer installs the wrong battery type for the charger. If they were to install manual switch converters OEM and it was set for lithium it could end up ruining lead acid batteries by overcharging which can also make boil over and over gas. And I guess its too much extra work for dealers to be asking customers and installing the right converter. So this is their best solution they have come up with. Likely works for them as 95% of RV owners have no clue about a converter anyway. :) So they count on DIYers and hard core boondockers to figure things out for themselves.
@@LoveYourRV Yes, that is what they say. However, many ( maybe only 5% as you say ) of those with OEM versions installed are having this problem too.
I don't think the auto detect will ever be able to work that well. Too many variations in RV wiring, batteries and other equipment like solar installed. Best thing I can recommend for that 5% to do is buy a second charger that can be specifically set for lithium, install it right near the battery bank and use it for charging off-grid with the generator. Give up on the auto detect. That's what I've done and works well for those times that I don't get enough sun for solar to do the charging job.
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