FORD 5R55W solenoid pack repair, your tools in within your knowledge.
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- Опубликовано: 11 фев 2013
- i decided to upload this video to help people repair the Bosch 5r55w and N solenoids pack using very simple tools, once you clean it and set back the right depth for every bushing threaded brass nut u will restore it to OEM spc's and will have another life time on it, good luck. common problem delay and very harsh reverse, forward and broken servos. if u own such vehicle with this trans then make sure u clean the bushings every 50K miles to envoy the perfect shift feel and state of art technology of Bosch electronics.
u can use small heated ultrasonic cleaner to clean the solenoid pack, just dip it for 30 minutes before u install the brass bushings (set screw or inserts) , also u can use super glue to glue the small plastic covers. after installation you need to drive the vehicle roughly for 5 minutes , floor the gas pedal between the shifts and do frequent stop so the PCM will learn the new adaption which will result in perfect smooth shifting.good luck. 
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Thanks to your video, I attempted to repair the solenoid pack of my daughters 2007 Explorer. Everything went well and the car is now shifting into reverse very smoothly. Saved her lots of money. Again, thank-you for the video
you are a genius man, I did clean the solenoid as you did in this video and now the trucks is shifting so smooth, you saved me a lot of money and headache, that was my first ford transmission but I've done hundreds of hondas and acuras, if I ever can help you with anything lmk. thanks again for your video and help
good video save money thanks man to serve
great video 5 starts
Thank you for quick response Salim
Thanks salim
Mr. Safran, Thank you very much for sharing this very helpful information. I have a 2006 Explorer that was suffering from a hard and delayed reverse shift. Thanks to your video and steps my problem was resolved.... I think it shifts better that when I drove it of the new car lot! Thanks! By the way instead of getting a broken solenoid as reference I used a .083 pin gage.... :)
I guess Im kinda off topic but do anybody know of a good site to watch new tv shows online ?
@Harry Adriel flixportal =)
@Axton Heath thank you, signed up and it seems like a nice service =) Appreciate it!!
@Harry Adriel You are welcome xD
Good vid !
Sure my bad so what glue do u use to put the caps back I use super glue but I don't think it's such a good idea since I think a bit can get in the valve
Great also whist solenoid is a,b,c? And have you got like an berate calibration for each?
I've repaired Transmissions and replaced solenoid packs. First of all, it takes special cleaning fluid or you'll damage the o-rings, second, once you break the seal on the solenoid it will leak, I've seen trans come in with RTV and crazy glue on solenoids, it will not last due to the heat generated.
When you have concluded its your solenoid pack due to hard or slow shifting, I definitely recommend a new solenoid pack. NEVER TRY TO REBUILD IT, it will cost you more later.
whatever suits you, I see them also sold on ebay with lifetime warranty, after doing exactly what I mentioned, the missing part here is the perfectionist not all can do the same job to check the readings and clean it and put it back but the success rate i see and based on hundreds of jobs I do in my shop over years and the results are outstanding, in few weeks I am coming with a very cheap calibration electronics to make sure all can perfect the repair without having to buy 10K calibration machine. the whole idea here is to help people not just for free but even in many cases I had to pay to even help them, regards
Is it possible to recalibrate 2004-up pack (3d gen) to 02-03 calibrations without expensive equipment? I have them both (old 03 and new 04+), with the new pack car shifts less comfort with old (after cleanup). Want to recalibrate but I can't directly measure 03 and make the same depth on 04 because of different cases.
Is there a definitive way to tell if it is the solenoid pack that's the issue without taking everything apart first?? I have a Lincoln LS thats not accelerating well, and not shifting until like 4000 RPM, and when it shifts it will shift hard...:/
I have a question... I pulled solonoid pack, to clean the connector since it's in a mustang where there is virtually no space... now it has no reverse and the band squeal. I shut it off so it only ran for 1 minute maybe less like that. What did I do wrong? Gasket? Air bubbles?
that type of tool is used to measure the pressure?
Would this issue cause an audible "tapping" or "ticking" noise?
Hi salim its wonderfull video
Dont forget 6l80e
Salim Safran thanks salim i wait that
my friend i need helpp so bad, im trying to install the wirin harness on the tranmission of my 2002 ford explorer; the thing is that i the wires brooke and now i dont now what wire goes where?.
Can I use this same procedure on a 1996 Ford 4R55E Solenoid
Hi Salim... can you give me the dimension of the solenoid shaft in 1000ths that you're testing on, as I don't have a scrap one around. Thanks!
Great video...I did this on a 06 mustang. Replaced the solenoid pack and flushed the system. now 18months later I am pulling a 765, 768 and 1717 code. hard shifts from park to reverse. and hard down shifting. Do I need another solenoid pack?
Did u replace pack?
Thank for your efforts.
Iwould like to asking about what's the voltage feeding solenoid valve.
12 v or 5 v .
it is 12v pwm signal , check this link www.autonerdz.com/yabbfiles/Attachments/Solenoid_Testing2006_09_22.pdf
What's the drill side.
the digital meter you say it costs like $ 25, what is the name?
I have a question... I pulled solonoid pack, to clean the connector since it's in a mustang where there is virtually no space... now it has no reverse and the band squeal. I shut it off so it only ran for 1 minute maybe less like that. What did I do wrong? Gasket? Air bubbles?
Remove the connector move the shifter to R if to move back fine then mechanically still good, remove the solenoid back again inspect the gasket low torque causes cross leak , over torque may break the rubber plastic gasket making you go such concerns. re-do it again
Thanks for the video. My 2010 Ford Explorer does not go into reverse. I have to to try multiple times for it to engage. I'm going to try this and see what happens.
in the valve body if one check ball got shrunk or oversized one installed will do that check if the 2 check balls in the body the same size , also if the neutral safety switch is bad beside the trans will lose reverse and drive sometimes as if the computer does not see it it won't engage, check both before u waste your time if all good then when u remove the valve body check the reverse band or reverse servo could be broken.
@@Transmission4less Thank you. I'll try to inspect and change the neutral safety switch. I have to do it myself as I can't afford mechanic cost. Is the neutral switch safety on the driver's side of the transmission just a little above the shift arm coming out of the transmission. I have a 2010 ford explorer XLT automatic transmission.
@@giridharg82 your transmission is 5r55w just google and will see lots of useful information to help u.
@@Transmission4less Thank you.
Hey Salim, great video you have there, what are the symptoms of a sticking solenoid? I just rebuilt my 02 explorer transmission with new bands, pistons and clutches, and I still get a slight slipping from 1 to 2 gear, and sometimes a little hard shifting on all gears, I was thinking on the solenoid pack? thanks for your help.
What was your problem my transmission is slipping into gears im not sure if it the oack or the torque converter
So my 08 explorer 4.0 v6 is having really hard shifts. Mainly 2nd. I draind the fuid and it is dark brown, and was also having the wineing nois when starting. I put new fuid and helped but was hearing noise by the pan. I drained some of the fluid to get it to the right level and went away. Now i drained it all again, took the valve body off cleaned it, and also getting new servors. Im concerned about the solenoids though, i electricly tested them and the 3 big 1s seam kinda weak when energized . The other 1s are clicking really good.
Harsh shifts, just sticking solenoids , just clean as illustrated , you do not need to worry how they sound electrically never seen them going bad.
Ok will do. I ment to also say that after I replaced the fluid my reverse was fine but the drive took a while to engage that's why I decided to take it apart, my bands did torque down. I did find a good amount of play on the IM servor. But the replacement should help with that. Thanks for the reply.
@@arturoayala4752 the 1st band towards the front of the trans is 2nd and 5th, adjust that band only as per the spc's if any slipping from the servo 2/5 u should get 2nd gear ratio errors if not just adjust to spc;s , does change over time, clean the valvebody and solenoids.reset the PCM and clear codes even if non-present. Usually when you shift to drive is good but hash 2nd after cleaning the solenoid then your PCM is bad and need replacement , u find them on ebay common problem in thunderbird v6 and v6 lincolin ls but not in explorers.
@@arturoayala4752 u can not replace the servo 2/5 while installed , the pieces that hold the band will fall,
Let's hope not or I will have to drop the whole transmission. I took it out and cleaned both of them. I put it back in while the new 1 gets here. And I was pushing it in and out with the spring and seems fine nothing fell out. I didn't loosen up the bands I just took the servos out like that. The servos I ordered are the 1s with the O rings by Aj1E
my explorer 02 has a noise under the trany pan and misses the second gear do you think that is the solenoid or gasket o something else? please let me know!!
Is explorer 2002 v6 4.0 L XLT but drives back and forward the noise is around the trany is like an vacuum. . So you think that I need a new trany!?
Just curious, what fluid did you use in the ultrasonic cleaner? Also what size drill bit is used to clean the bushings?
suitable drill bit just enough to go inside so scrape the sludge buildup material, there are many fluids for the ultrasonic cleaner it depends the power and heat you use , consult the manufacturer.
This was a great video. thank you for putting it up. However, I have a big problem. I messed up the depth of each solenoid bushing. I have them around where they should be, but I know they are not the manufacturer settings. is there anyway that you or anyone on this page can tell me the proper depths of each solenoid? because I cannot find this anywhere and I do not want to buy a $400 pack when I know mine is perfectly fine now. My truck is an 02 ford explorer 4.0 4wd V6. HELP! thanks you
Salim Safran thank you for getting back to me. I used the same depth gauge as you, but I left it in fractional form which went down to a 64th of an inch. They are all off by no more than a half a turn, and I know that cant be good. I already installed it and I have been taking my truck out for short test drives. the od light will go off for some time and then back to flashing. I feel like the computer wants to reset itself but my setting might be too far off. what do you think?
Amigos uds me pueden revisar o reparar y bloque selenoides de transmisión automática Ford sport trac xlt 5r55w/s a donde lo envio estoy en Colombia gracias
This video would have helped me a lot if you would posted the size of the shaft of the bad solenoid (using a micrometer) because I do not have a old one to work off of.- btw would this problem cause No "R" or slow to shift into "R"all other drives work
the size of the shaft to test is not really needed, just use any drill bit to clean the buildup dirt inside and that should be it, the drill bit will scrub the dirt and as long as nothing left inside then the job is done right. yes that will fix delay reverse then harsh shift.
Ok I understand now Thanks so much for the response and the video !!
Good video, Slam! Do you know how to test the individual solenoid by applying power to the pins on the connectors? I want to verify they are electronically sound first, before doing the cleaning. Thanks!
The shift solenoids not common to go bad and will hear clicking when applying voltage to them but not the large 3 pressure solenoids, better dip it in ultrasound cleaner for 3 hours on low temperature with the back round caps open to clean it then repair as shown. You can measure the resistance of each to make sure none of the copper tracks were broken . www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/evaluating-5r55s-w-to-6r60-upgrade.436041/
@@Transmission4less thank you Salim!
@@jrm163 very welcome
good vid
what type of glue ?
super glue was the perfect choice.
Can the solenoid caps be left off vs gluing them back in place? I feared they may come loose and fall out if the glue fails to hold up to high temps and interaction with the Mercon V and end up who knows where? (I will find out tomorrow as I have it all back together and will service and rest drive in the am!). *** UDATE: I found an answer from a Ford Tech on a Ford Truck forum: "The trans will still work fine with the caps off. The plastic gets brittle from heat and age. They fall off. If you transmission is still working fine then just leave them off. I've seen this before and never replaced them. No issues have resulted from not replacing."
' GOOD NEWS! ***UPDATE #2: test drive SUCCESS! Shifts like new, quiet as a mouse, smooth as silk, no cold start up squeal and I left the caps off! 😎
use super glue will hold in place , if lost use any custom cut plastic or even a button of a shirt , it is meant to keep it clean from contamination, for the long run.
I agree with you, but I do not trust any super glue to hold plastic plugs in a transmission. I will be back in there in 30K and change filter and clean the solenoid ports again as needed.
what glue do you use for the caps ? super glue ?
yes
Can you repair my selinoid on my 2003 ford explorer XLT and change filter...
we do it for $300 also with updated molded rubber gasket. if u have transmission codes then it is too late but harsh shifts will be fixed.
EPC circuit fault pressure control solenoid A
@@markwheelous3253 when the computer can not measure the magnetic field inside the solenoid will give such code, also in most cases the connector that goes to the solenoid pack gets corroded resulting with a broken pin as it seems is ur case which is a very common i see in such SUVs in heavy snow areas, in such case u need a repair kit plus a solenoid pack , as long as u do NOT have gear ratio codes then ur trans mechanically still fine. www.ebay.com/itm/363641957721?chn
Oh BTW Salim. Did you ever finish the tool you were building that was supposed to help rebuilders calibrate EPC solenoids on the bench?
As far as I'm concerned, you can take all the time you need. I was just curious. Good luck with it :)
Hi Salim,
2002 ford explorer 5r55w the TC solenoid is unlocking the TC clutch as soon as the throttle is released...even at over 45 - 75 mph... rpms drop to idle.. I back probed the TC gnd from PCM and saw that the 12v to the TCC solenoid goes to zero as soon as the gas pedal is released... does this suggest to you another sensor that may be at fault that should keep Tc locked until lower speeds? checked resistance on all solenoids and speed sensors and temp sensor to be in range...
thanks,! Mike
Salim Safran hi salim and thank your for your reply... I did already replace the valve body with a reman from a highly recommended supplier that uses several Sonax upgrades as well.. this did not solve the issue,,,
Question...when reassembling the front oil pump housing what would happen if the selective thrust washer clearance was too little or too much...outside the .012"- .018' clearance? does this effect operating pressures to cause a Low solenoid B OD flash code? last inspection of a pan drop there were also signs that one of the carrier thrust bearings failed with remains in the pan....! Aside from losing the bearing surface where it came from this could also effect fluid pressures because of how it would now effect that clearance on the selective washer area?? your thoughts?.... I think I know I'll need to pull and replace it and check proper clearance.... thanks...still learning here
ok.... much appreciate the input... thanks
part of the video is off screen, on the repair of the solenoids video and what kind of glue to use
i use super glue does stick for years if you apply then keep the caps pressed till dries out in 10 seconds , the idea here just clean the bushings from the dirt accumulated over years, you can use any small drill bit to scrape it out from inside, once cleaned no need for further checking, just assemble it back, under each bushing there is a small spring make sure it does not go out form place. each bushing has it's own measurement , register each before removal and put them back accordingly. btw i do believe in miracles, fairy tails and much more.
Hi sir my 5r55w no drive at D and manual gear 1 2 3 but in reverse is have drive but with harsh reverse shift, is this problem is solenoid pack problem?
@@Transmission4less I have to change a new solenoid pack but fix the problem!
ارجو ترجمة مقاطع الفديوهات
الشكر الجزيل على هذه المبادره الطيبه منكم مع التقدير والاحترام اخوك علي ابو محمد ميكانيك سيارات الأمريكية اختصاص كير فقط
Hi sir.is this the same as used for ford ranger t6 2016
the idea is the same yes. clean the set screws.
Hi salim. Just wanted to ask what specific glue do i use for the solenoid caps?
Also, can i thoroughly clean the inside of the solenoid by spraying brake cleaner inside of it?
Upon reassembling everything, do i leave the inside of the solenoid dry or do i put atf inside of it before gluing on the cap?
what glue do you use to put it back together?
i am having these troubles with my mustang 06 gt, long time ago i had problems with reverse going lag and sometimes hard shifting, after a few months today the o/d flash light came on also check engine, i scanned the codes and these are the codes p0743, p0750, p0755, p0760, p0765 all of these, it is the solenoid block? when i drove the car to the mechanic house, it had a hard upshifting the transmission went to 2nd gear at 4k RPM, i would appreciate if you could help me !
first of all thanks for your fast response i really really appreciate ! my mechanic and i already checked all the fuses and none seems to be broken, also we checked all the fuses with electricity checker pen, also we checked the fuses inside of the mustang located on the passenger side, should i check again? we already removed the selenoid block and we decided to give a shot tomorrow and we will try to do the steps as you shown on your repair video, any idea ? i am really sad about my car right now ! i hope that you have any advice about this :(
we will take a look into that wire harness, i will try to google the color of the power feed and i will make some tests tomorrow, i wont touch the solenoids for now then, i am really scare is a really expensive part i don't want to damage it, thank you very so so so much
ok we opened the solenoid block as you said in the vid, we cleaned all, we put all together again(oil, solenoid etc,) and we made a run test it's still the same, another thing, we checked all the Ohms on every solenoid every solenoid as i saw in a pdf, it has a good Ohms, between the ranges showed on the pdf, JUST one it has a lot bellow, my question its if 1 is failing it will cause a circuit effect on all the other solenoids?
Salim Safran it's a little bit late right now, we will scan it tomorrow, to see which codes is now sending, as a plus long time ago i had problems with 3rd shift and sometimes 4th shift, it jumped but i didint care, big mistake i guess so the a,b,c, solenoid are pretty much ok with the oHms but the other ones, which i guess are for the other gears i think is really failing, i really dont know how to say thank you, i dont want to bother you i really hope that we can continue this conversation, you're the one really helping me here !, i am checking everything at this point !! i had the alternator failing few months ago, and the check enigne send me a few codes, of the camshaft sensors, and these had nothign to do with a bad alternator, iam gonna check the battery voltage tomorrow, this can be an option too? that the PCM or the solenoid block not receiving a good voltage? could be?, these codes of camshaft dissapeared when i fixed the alternator
Salim Safran thank you, good nights and again thank you very so much !
buenas discculpe como hago para canbiar el conector de ese cuerpo de selenoides.es que se rompieron unos pines.
good afternoon. like repairing a connector pin broke
you can drill that pin with thin drill bit and fabricate one, it is a process but here you can buy bad used ones for $15 or you can just go to any transmission shop close to you and get one and fix it. not many know how to fix it yet.
jose luis Ruiz Roldan bueno días amigos tengo una Explore año 2005 xlt 8 cilindros tengo el problema de q se le parte los pibes al conector del paquete de selenoide á qué sé debe q me los parte é cambiado dos í el mismo problema
i have a 02 ford explorer xlt sport track, the problem i am having is i have no gears before it went out completely i would be driving then suddenly lose the gear and it would just rev then slam back in after a second or two, anyone know what could be the problem?
this is the second transmission that has been in it, the original went out before i got it this one has less than 25k miles on it
lel hoping for the latter
Hi Salim, Thank you for the video.. I followed all your instructions. My explorer is having a shift delay again now when going from 2nd to third...several seconds RPM go way up and hard shift after delay... This was a system a couple years ago but it seemed to correct itself. It is now back after cleaning the inserts.... all depths put back the same. Perhaps now I just need to do the correct reprogramming?? getting the O/D off signal flashing when this happens too.....
Thanks...would appreciate your thoughts! Mike
Salim Safran Hi Salim.. .. well you were correct..!!.. the intermediate (3rd gear) band was broke....it also tore the intermediate servo seal due to the band break. I replaced both bands and some frictions ..overdrive sprag, int.servo and overdrive servo with orings...the bores were actually not bad and the servo stem did not have sharp edges similar to how they were on a 4r44e I worked on before....also replaced orig TC with a Dacco remanufactured torque converter since the trans was out.... along with the Transgo shift kit with the pump alignment tool the $70 one...
it worked ok for a week...with a slight flare 3rd to 4th..... all else seemed ok.
after a week I lost 2nd and 5th with a Po775 (pressure solenoid B) and OD light flash.. I also noticed when I let off the gas the rpm's drop to idle (approx. 700) as if the torque converter lock was "unlocking' ...doesn't seem normal... I checked the servos and they are still good and all bands are in place
Anyhow...wonder if this symptoms alert you to a probable cause.??
.. to be sure, I replaced all 3 pressure solenoid bushings with new Omega bushings versus the cleaned original copper ones....my pack is the earlier unit with approx. .120" depths on the bushings....anyhow...the new bushings did not help the loss of 2nd and fifth or the TC lockup when letting off gas pedal...
Salim Safran Thanks Salim. ! I still have the old bushings from the pack....the new ones did seem to "sound like" they actuated better (9v battery) , especially psi B . The bottom end of the new bushings were slightly different but omega had the valve body pro bushing installation tutorial to show installation ... essentially the same measure and set procedure you teach...once I have it out again I will recheck....otherwise do you recommend any of the rebuilt unit valve packs from various companies or only go new? new with updated pack?..just in case... I have 2002 explorer 4.0.. I never had an issue with 2nd or 5th before, so adding the o'rings to OD servo shaft (as a precautionary measure only) may likely be the real issue since tolerancing and ease of movement in the bore are likely very critical as you say.. both servos really had none to minimal "play".. I measured OD servo bore with inside mic and the front was larger in diameter to the more inside bore by only .002-.003". intermediate servo bore had same diameter throughout and No "play" on servo.. I have a machine shop so added orings similar to the one that can be bought on internet as alternative repair to buying sleeves and tools only to the OD servo.....I know I know!!..but $ is tight... How should it feel when pushed in by hand against the OD band?...it does come back out on its own......not immediately though....could just need some adjustment...or I'll buy a new one and leave alone since never had 2nd or 5th issue....
Really appreciate your inputs!!
Salim Safran ok..thanks so much again Salim....yes....i'm allowing myself do overs as I am going through a learning curve on automatic transmissions...learned and worked on engines and clutches when younger.but .left the automatics alone....now after engineering degree and older I find it interesting....
ok....didn't know a band could really stretch any significant amount.... that's a pretty easy check anyhow....just run it in with torque 71inlbs and back out 1.5 turns?
oh...it wasn't the TC alignment tool....but the front oil pump alignment tool....just a cheap plastic one...yes...I used that reference...thanks
ok...what I saw from sonnax on sleeves and tools was much pricier...do you have a source to buy sleeves for around that price? to you know the reamer finish size for the bore....I do have various reamers already.....
thanks!
Salim Safran ok....on the air checks.. ..I apply shop air to all those points and look for and listen for leakage? and what would ok test be like?.. little or no air bleed out? ....even with fluid now drained? can I do while valve body is pulled and trans still in vehicle??...perhaps..
thanks!!!
Hi Salim,
I I finally had time to check things out some... replaced the psi solenoids with their original brass bushings and cleaned and placed to the original depths...the OD band was in place with struts and readjusted band to make sure proper,,,
before ordering a new OD servo piston I did a line pressure check to gain further insight...and easy to hook up....A - B port on drivers side... at idle all were in spec//P/N 110psi reverse 130psi D,3,2,1 100psi
then had guage in vehicle while driving and at start of acceleration from stop the guage goes to the 220psi range and after 1.5 - 2sec Immediately drops back to 85 -90 psi and stays there through when it should normally shift to 2nd (OD band)......then never really goes higher than 120psi thru 3rd and 4th which do shift ok however....and still no 5th
Does this give you any further insight into if there is a solenoid pack problem or likely still the OD servo issue? (has orings on it now still)
Thanks! Mike
I have intermittent issue whereby the transmission flares up as if in neutral. Sometimes when this happens it can only work when put in 3rd. I lose drive, reverse, etc. I can get it on the highway and put it in drive and then it works perfect. Then i can park it and drive it the next day and it works fine again. I have no codes at all and no flashing overdrive light, ever. It seems to be an electrical problem. Can you have a solenoid pack issue without a code?
Can you have a solenoid pack issue without a code? > yes but the computer shall report the slippage codes if any , the computer did not see it, that is NOT possible, if 5r55n then low oil or broken spring in valvebody if 5r55w then stuck boost valve in pump , , what is the mileage and what vehicle you are working on. if no movement when cold could spun turbine shaft bushing in pump stater.
before you do anything get a scanner to read the PRNDL switch data , this switch may cause it not to move if commanded by the computer for not knowing what position you are in. that switch wont give codes but may cause related concerns you mentioned. you can find it on amazon for $30.
Salim Safran good day and thanks for your reply. I have had it hooked to a high end scanner as my cousin owns a garage. There’s not a single transmission code which amazes him. The transmission can work perfect one day and then act up the next. I don’t have issues when it’s cold. The flare up will typically happen when travelling at 30-40 mph and giving the car gas. Sometimes if I slack the gas I can get the gear to engage but other times it acts as if I’m neutral and then I can only get it to move by putting it in 3rd. If I go on the highway when this happens and shift to drive then it will start working perfect again with no issues on the highway. The car is a 2006 Mustang GT. It has 5r55s. I am the original owner. It has 95,000 miles and it is in great shape. It’s not winter driven or even driven in the rain.
Salim Safran I should also point out that this car had the transmission separator plate replaced twice under warranty. The reason: there was a rattling noise on cold starts that lasted maybe 10-20 seconds. It sounded similar to an exhaust heat shield rattle. Do you know the purpose of this plate and what it bolts to? I wonder if there’s some pinched wire from when that warranty work was done. It was completed in years 2008 and 2009.
@@newfie-dean5803 what vehicle , PRNDL switch as i said may cause your concern , check the digital status of the pins on the scanner ,
Salim Safran good day, it’s a 2006 Mustang GT, not sure if you read that message above. I think it’s something other than this switch. If the car is cold started I don’t have any problem and sometimes I can drive it with no issues at all. I have come across some posts of cars with similar issues that were servo bore related but it seems these people all had codes for their problems. I have not had a single code yet.
hi can you fix my trans there no good places where i live . i have a 2001 ford ranger 2.3 automatic trans
contact the shop form mail of www.transmissions4less.com or call us. regards
how to check depth of plunger it must be are how to put back
just measure the depth first for each, remember that each is different, the same way and exact position u measure it from is the same you shall use to measure again put it back, you can use thread locker and super glue.
Thank you sir for your reply actually I am having 2010 ford explorer xlt 4x4 and I am trying to fix all these code as following p0970 p0966 p0962 p0765 p0760 p0755 p0750 p0743 need help how to fix
remove the harness from the solenoid pack some gets water intrusion and some pins get broken, check the harness between the transmission all the way to the bell housing www.ebay.com/itm/5R55S-5R55W-Transmission-Wire-Harness-Pigtail-Repair-Kit-For-Solenoid-Block-Pack-/232022500644?hash=item36059e6524:g:TL4AAOSwUKxYbrXH&vxp=mtr
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UNA DISCULPA POR MI COMENTARIO,PERO UN VIDEO DE MEJOR CALIDAD Y.. EN ESPAÑOL AVER SI TIENEN OTRO VIN
My truck is stuck in first gear no matter what I do it will not come out. Would the solenoid pack cause this kind of problem?
no, check speed sensor on the back u see 3 could be the 1st from back , scan it with DTC code scanner 1st
Yes I can scan it as soon as I get it back together. But, I hate to do that if it's going to have to come apart again. You know what a pain in the ass putting the fluid in is. I have the solenoid pack off. Anything else I could look for before I put it back together? I thought if the 1st gear solenoid is not working it can't shift out of first.
@@bhauk9626able just close it back and check the trans output speed sensor , either disconnected or broken wire, after u get it done if u remove the trans connector it should start in a high gear if does then with a scanner u can read the output speed sensor value to verify.
@Transmission4less sure appreciate that I'll let you know.
Estos videos son buenos pero nunca dicen la funcion de cada uno ni la falla que tenian cuando la desarmaron
Hi salem can we see video for 6l80e GM repairing valvebody solenoid
Yes yes thank you brother i wait that .
Thank you again
Hi salim
Thanks salim i live in kuwait im from palestine beet laham
you asked me before how to fix the mechatonic of 6L50 transmissions, all what you need to do is just open the valvebody and repalce any bad check ball ( plastic ones gets swollen and gets small in size) also replace the pressure switches laminates as you can see in www.sonnax.com/parts/3754-pressure-switch-rebuild-master-pack, if you can not source the plastic laminates then buy a camera roll film and cut them to the same round circle size and will just work fine.
What is the name of the digital meter ?
@@Transmission4less thanks man
Anyone know what is the solenoid C, or someone can pass me the diagram or something like that. please :)
..Explorer 2002 4X4
Hi : salim this is my second email i talk yesterday with you about 6l80e TCA trans
You can see it in my profile
Thanks brother
you asked me before how to fix the mechatonic of 6L50 transmissions, all what you need to do is just open the valvebody and repalce any bad check ball ( plastic ones gets swollen and gets small in size) also replace the pressure switches laminates as you can see in www.sonnax.com/parts/3754-pressure-switch-rebuild-master-pack, if you can not source the plastic laminates then buy a camera roll film and cut them to the same round circle size and will just work fine.
next time put the camera on a .place
Mohamed Bakkha Türkçeye cevirt
What about the circuit part?
what you meant with the circuit part ?.
@@Transmission4less the black plastic area with the copper in it
@@02DDP rarely but yes have seen broken trace maybe one in a thousand just solder it.
@@Transmission4less ok thanks
Ford Motor Co. disliked this video.
That comment was meant as a joke, but apparently it was a bad one. Sorry.
and not not just ford but also GM with 6l50 , 6t75 TCMs
Lol
tard
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