llary Step 5: find s mistake. Try to fix it on your prototype. Step 6: start scratching leads from the pcb, add wires if needed Step 7-10: repeat step 6 with the remaining circuit boards. Step 11: go back to step 3 and try again
You taught me in 11 mins what my Design teacher did not for entire year.. There is a lot of hard work behind your videos...Thank you very much..God bless you.
Haha I’m graduating Electrical Engineering and these things are never taught in my degree (actually only 1 lecture to be honest). I have to learn them from side project, club and co-op myself. I don’t expect school to teach many thing useful nowaday
Couple other tips that I've picked up in my time in industry so far is include testpoint vias (and local ground points) on almost all major nets/connections! This will help debugging PCBs by making it easier to pop in scope probes. Another thing to keep in mind is power domains and signal domains. You usually want to keep these separate as much as possible to prevent interference (Along with some nice ground floods to help isolate fringing fields). In terms of routing, it always helps to route your major signals first (i.e. RF paths > High Bandwidth Serial Paths > Low Speed Serial Paths > HF Power Paths > LF Power Paths > GPIO Lines > Power) as this will help signal integrity and generally make it easier to route.
LorneChrones I am entirely new to the whole pcb design thing and I am looking to find where to start e.g. how someone selects components (diodes, resistors, capacitors...) after deciding about the function? Any guidance would be appreciated.
@@ckehagioglou Did you get any leads on how to select components? I'm also new to this design thing and pretty much confused on how to move forward. I also need assistance on where to get most reliable components as well. Any guidance would be appreciated.
Can I pay you for an hour-long schooling session, please? The amount of knowledge you will drop on me within a simple 60-minute conversation is mind-boggling.
This is officially my favorite video on RUclips. I've always wanted to make my own PCB happen but never had it felt more approachable or attainable than after watching this.
So THAT'S how it's done! I'd been muddling through this process making all kinds of mistakes and wondering how so many people with a lot less time in electronics than I were able to do it so easily. Nice to finally be able to connect the dots, literally. Thank you for this!
I have not any experience with ICs; the most I've messed with circuits is soldering some LEDs, BUT you always get to keep me through the video and I actually think I understand most of it. Well done and thank you truly! You're an example of a content creator!
I am loving JLCPCB! From part picking, to schematic, to layout, to ordering the PCB and BOM.. all super seamless and easy! I'm not even getting paid for this, but I am really digging it. Glad I saw this.
An easy rule of thumb you can use for trace widths is 10 mils (0.01") per amp. Then you only need to bust out a calculator for the really high current traces.
Make sure to take frequency in to account though! Traces/planes are mostly inductive. You can increase the thickness to lower the resistance, but you will realise that the inductance hardly changes!
This seems to be true and I don't like it. I have a simple project in mind but I don't know anything. I know KiCad is the program I need to make the schematic but I don't know how to make one or make sure I have all the pieces. I wish there was a forum/group out there that could help me learn what I need to learn. Started my project a year ago and I lost interest because I wasn't getting anywhere.
I have actually made my very own PCB with this tutorial, and it has worked the first time off. Not too complicated but it is great to see your design worked first shot. I have since made revisions 2 and 3 to improve on my design. And bonus, it looks professional.
90 degrees bends... It's an issue of EMI and wave propagation problem, as well as manufacturing hazard. Electrical wave passing through the copper prefers a straight line, as almost everything in physics. 90 deg bend causes the wave not to propagate properly, some of the signal might be lost or reflected. It may also interfere with other signals in the circuit. This is essential for high speed signaling where you have to keep the trace of the said width to set it to proper impedance so it can match the rest of the circuit. For the manufacturing, the more acute the bend the more risk of resulting track being "over-etched", which means being thinner than expected. With thin tracks it could lead to bad signal integrity best case and an open circuit worst case. The other thing is that a good practice is to make the supply voltage traces as thick as possible for low inductance and low voltage drop across the trace, especially with currents closing to 1 amp and above.
Turns out right angle corners don't affect time frequency behaviour. ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/750154/ Also a 90 degree bend has inherently much wider cross section than the underlying trace width, so undercut is of no concern.
@Siana If you design for a specific track impedance, its width change changes the impedance, so 90 degree bends are worse than 45 degree or 'round' edges. Regarding the article, I will see it at work since I have no access to IEEE from home. Either way thank you for the link.
i've studied electronics, i practiced at a company which repaired TVs (among other things) - the beginning of the plasma screen era, the first SMDs appeared back then - and I was never taught that I could solder SMDs with hot screwdriver (only the hot air gun, - they said - method was possible! which...i never advanced enough to be tought that..) impressive & informative video!! thank you 👏
I was just looking for a video like this, not going into too much detail but showing the overall process, but just enough so i got a better understanding and the main pointers needed. Thank you for this, it's a gem among the many electronics videos on YT, you information and production level is always spot on!
As an electrical engineering student I love you channel. I am just leaning about designing circuits and... Your channel gives me lots of informations and new ideas.
Will be studying videos of working on pcb designing for motherboards. I just actually today got a job working for a company I am excited. This is my first time ever doing this and all the help I can get is highly appreciated. Got this weekend to do this test thanks for the video and creating this.
Un millón de gracias por todos tus videos! Yo soy Ingeniero en Energías, pero siempre fuí un apasionado de la electrónica y he hecho algunos PCB's que la verdad, da mucho gusto verlos funcionando.
As commercial as this video is (in a tasteful and subtle way), I personally still love it. You share the best things on this channel and it’s always a joy to watch. :)
I have recently got into electronics as a hobby. I had a class on electronics in high school 31 years ago. It's amazing how much easier it is to design and produce your own PCBs now. Computers and the internet have changed how we do almost everything in our lives.
Pretty neat tutorial!. Once you shoot for more advanced projects, I would always suggest to go for 4 layers, so you can have two signal layers (front/bottom), a dedicated ground layer and a power layer inbetween (if single supply - for dual supply, use the back for the secondary voltage). This also gives you more freedom while routing. One thing I have missed was an extra note about bypass caps for active components. I have already seen people designing PCBs either not thinking about bypass caps or if they did, they "grouped" them together in a single block, far away from the active component. Rule of thumb: Put 100n as close as possible to the power pin of an active component.
Thanks! Should make some PCB layout tutorial videos. So a ground layer can be a middle layer of a PCB and that one ground layer can be shared between all components? How is a ground layer actually grounding a PCB circuit? Thanks in advance!
I don't know about anyone else but 'Let's get started!' for me means have a few deep breaths, stretch a little, chill, tune in and carry on watching and I'm not even majorly into electronics, I just like the art & craftiness of it all!
Okay. Just some info from my experience. I work a lot with this NRF24. We've made some tests with the spectrum analyzer and useing PCB antenna (not the power amplified antenna one) we've noticed way less errors and less noise when a GND copper layer is placed on PCBs. Keep up!
In general PCB design, I don't know. I was talking about RF 2.4GHz PCB antenna. And the best solution was not GND plane but the RF module outline palced on the exterior of the PCB.
Skuldugery I'm not sure how much effect it has, but if you use top and buttom fill with positive and negative voltage, it has certean amount of capacitance, very small, but at sensitive circuit you might want to know about it. Some computer manufacturers use this as capacitors.
This is a great example of how to make good paid content while keeping to the spirit of the channel! 10/10 Good job! I've unsubscribed from a tonne of people who, when they have a large enough following, switch to paid reviews of items which are only barely related to thier channel content.
This is a great video on the general process of PCB design. I really like that you have included the step of creating a plan in the form of a block diagram. Though I'm disappointed that you've left out the importance of design rule checking. Every beginner will benefit from the use of DRC! It can point out some blatant mistakes likes shorts, unrouted nets, holes that are too close to each other, etc... This will save you time and money. The design itself could be improved in several ways. For example: C3 is placed in a way that beats its purpose. The die pad of U2 should connect to GND and have a bunch of vias connecting to the bottom plane to help with heat dissipation. The RF module should be placed so that the antenna is somewhere near the edge of the PCB pointing away with no copper near it. If you place it right above other components and metal objects it will shorten the range and degrade the signal. If you haven't, go watch some Robert Feranec's videos. He has a ton of tips on good PCB design practices and techniques. This can save you some money and headaches in the future if you know what to pay attention to.
Fantastic video! I followed your instructions and PCBed my latest creation. Your instructions worked perfectly, and my creation works beautifully. Thank you!
GreatScott! I just found it a bit strange that they charge a flat rate for color, no matter if you buy 5pcs 5x5cm pcb, or 10000pcs 40x50cm pcb, it will always cost you 16$.
GreatScott! But, otherwise its a great service. Their capabilities are not great (flex pcb, ..), but they are rediculously cheap and the quality of the pcbs are great (at least the ones I ordered so far). I just hope via this way, they can receive some feedback. :)
Well you're paying normal price because you're falling out of a discount panel where you get combined with other orders, and after the PCB is made it's broken apart. If you ordered 10 black PCBs the size of their panel, like 60x40cm, you could expect them to cost the same regardless of lacquer colour.
Siana Gearz Nope, I was actually falling in the special tariff. The point I'm trying to make, is that they charge a flat amount of money to change the color, regardless of how much you need
I want to do this for a robot module that I designed and then sell it on ebay, but is it legal to do that? At what point do you need CE or UL certification?
Useless Duck Company you need the ce certificate if you want to sell it in the eu, but you don't need any of those UL, GS or other testing certificates at all
UL/CE certification only matters if you intend your product to be plugged into the wall inside peoples homes, makes everybody sleep well at night. Ever hear of those hover boards that constantly caught fire, usually when recharging?! Not UL/CE certified. UL certification means that your product is subjected to laboratory testing to high levels of durability and quality. But I digress. If your building a module (likely for designing and testing or prototyping), most people buying your module will have the prototype mentality and so will take the necessary precautions to keep your device from burning down their home.
Where are your clearance settings? Also did you do DRC checks? What can't you set power net to a specific width beforehand? I think you should talk about these "safety issues" before drawing your PCB.
after a year away from EasyEDA s/w one is faced w/ many changes. frustrations being on the learning curve again. your vid' was just the cure to inspire me with can-do-ability . and has be back on track . hooyay for GS
You don't need to go full SMD when you only want to use a few SMD ICs. There are little adapter pcbs on ebay for very cheap to fit an SMD IC into a through hole world.
Yeah but when you are using super complex SMD ICs I think you are in a different ballpark already and going full SMD might not be such a big step anymore.
I like those little adapters mostly for experimenting on a breadboard. When the circuit design is ready, I do the PCB step. Most designs need a few changes from the first paper version until they are satisfactory.
Thank you,you should get a Nobel prize. I’ll be doing their tutorial soon, and starting simple with some boards for ws2812 arrays. Keep up the outstanding work you’re a legend my son.
For what it's worth, in many AT uCs, you don't need any external components or pins to measure battery voltage.You can set the input of the ADC to the Vbg bandgap source at 1.1V and measure what proportion of full-scale that is and so get the supply voltage. Microchip have an appnote with the details, but that's about it, really.
Why noone of youtubers DOES NOT tell us about 10$ shpping costs, just the 2$ CHEAP PCB BOARDS. I know 12$ for 10 pcbs is not expensive, but everyone is allways talking about 2$.. deam
No, that's their regular price for small PCBs... I know, it's ridiculous. I've used their PCB fabrication service a few times already. And for larger boards it's not a lot more expensive either, I think I payed something like $10 for 120x100mm PCBs.
I also have a same question , I design my first PCB but when I ordered they charge me 22 us dollars, why they don't tell shipping only talks about 2dollrs not about shipping
I started doing contract work, designing and constructing test equipment. But I was stone broke. So every software I used, was freeware. The PCB design freeware software was limited to a small number of electronic components, such 8 pin IC's, 1/4 resistors, etc., unlike the costly version. This limited number of components per PCB layout, was far below the number that I typically required. However, it did also allow you to design your own custom components. So I would design a portion of the PCB, and once I was happy with the layout of that portion, I would now turn this section into a single component. So, I was now back to having used only one component. It took a bit of work, but this trick got me to eventually complete the PCB layout.
I know a lot of people think etching your own board is out of style in 2022, but I still do it when prototyping. I can knock a board out in 30 minutes and make sure it works the way I've designed it (in case I made a mistake in converting the schematic to an electronic format, for example). It's also nice to see the board in real life to see if your design is going to create any issues in the assembly portion of your project, or maybe the placement of your USB jack isn't close enough to the edge of the case, etc.. Using thin magazine paper with an iron works perfectly fine. I've tried the special transfer paper, and magazine paper works better!!
True. With this technique it can also happen that your currents take some ridiculous path back to the source. This can cause all sorts of problems. Always make sure to provide the shortest path.
My last order from a China PCB fab house took 37 days - long enough that when they arrived I had lost interest in my project, so I was skeptical about "and in a week, I had 10 copies of my board". I'm on my 3rd order with JLCPCB, the first two arrived 6 days after I ordered, and my 3rd order arrives today, on day 5. I don't know if they sponsored this video or not, but EasyEDA is easy to learn/use, and the fabrication process is REALLY fast and cheap... thanks for the heads up. With the limited time I have for electronics tinkering, I don't even bother breadboarding now - I just do a quick schematic and lay out a prototype PCB and order it. When it arrives, I put it together to see if it works (so far, so good), and then I copy the schematic into my main project, update the PCB with changes, and place parts and traces.
It connects behind the power switch. Meaning it will only affect the battery when the circuit is turned on. Also I used 13.3kohm in total. That will only draw little current.
Yes it is. And it is completely unnecessary. The proper way to do this with an Atmega328 is to connect the battery as an external ADC reference and then measure the internal 1.1V reference against the battery. That way you will get a number telling you how big a portion of the battery voltage is 1.1V and you can calculate the voltage back from that. For example if the battery voltage is 4V, you will get 1.1/4*1024=281, if it is 3V, you will get 1.1/3*1024=375 and so on. If you want to get the battery voltage you simply do 1126.4/ and get the voltage (e.g. 1126.4/281=4V). In reality, you'd avoid the division by putting the ADC constant calculated above in the code. In this case he wanted to test for 3.4V, so he'd just need to see if the ADC result was higher than 1.1/3.4*1024=331. Requires no external components and draws no current when the voltage isn't being measured (and even then it draws way less than the resistors). But this is the GreatScott channel, so what did you expect? Not good design, surely.
Exactly! I was using perfboards for a project, but there were too many connections. I knew a PCB was the way to go, but I had no idea how. I used this tutorial and made it.
I watched this video about two months ago. Since then I've tried out EasyEDA und JLCPCB. EasyEDA turned out to be a bit cumbersome to work with because slow page loads often interrupt the process and it is also too constrained for what I wanted to do. I've since then switched to KiCad. Great program. Also works nicely on my 12'' MacBook with the touchpad. The PCBs that I ordered from JLCPCB were of excellent quality. Every board worked perfectly.
This video helped me out SOOOOOOO much! I've been designing electronics for years, but I'm very new to this software! Thanks to this video, I've figured out how to design PCBs very quickly! Love this channel!!!
Just ordered 5 pcs with shipping to Europe for 4 quid haha. If I’d have known it was this cheap I would have done this a lot sooner. Thanks for the video!
@@Ouchie A čo riešite? Kúpte si kde chcete, alebo si to sami vyrobte. Skúsenosť s čínskymi výrobkami je tragická a používajú veľmi nekvalitné materiály a súčiastky. Z Číny a Poľska nikdy nič!
Actually, 90 degree corner is not a problem. The problem with 90 degree was that some older PCB EDA tools didn't support it, and it could crash it. For all other things, 90 degree corner is fine, as long as you don't run through it signal that has frequency of 9-10 GHz or more.
when you get into high speed circuits ... corners are BAD ... even angles are bad ... always smooth rounded traces otherwise you making micro vaccuum tubes on your pcb at the same time as you make the circuit ... and then stuff gets weird fast ....
Excelent step by step how to start a production of a new product after development. I´m starting as a electronics product developper and it help me a lot thanks :)
I don't want to discourage you, but you should definitely start training your soldering abilities specially when it comes to SMD components. Your channel is so great, you give lots of useful tricks and explain things carefully. If you read this, please check out these: -Amtech Tacky Flux, available at Rossman Group, intl shipping. -Soldering station with T12 tips, preferably a Hakko, but KSGER T12 works fine. -Kester flux core solder that fits your needs Most of your soldering problems are too much heat (which consumes the little amount of flux super quick) and total lack of flux, which makes really bad connections to the PCB... For the flux cleaning just dump some isopropyl alcohol and a soft brush and you're good to go. Also you could use solder paste with SMD components if you're not confident enough with the iron PS: I am not the best at soldering, but I'd avoid those crunchy joints at all costs
Before watching this, I was still cautious of attempting my own PCB design. I've worked on perfboard, but so far haven't touched an actual Gerber file generator software. Years ago I saw a colleague's PCB file open, looked at all the crossing colored traces, and thought it would be way too complicated to try anytime soon. Your video makes PCB design seem much more approachable. Of course I'm sure there are lot of intricacies to the best practices behind PCB design. Still, thanks for breaking down the general process and giving an example. I'm looking forward to attempting my own board design with SMD components in the future because of this video.
This was a great watch, concise and to the point, but descriptive enough to understand everything he’s doing… all while showing you good places to get the parts and website to design and order the boards. I have no experience with this and plan on doing a lot of trial and error designing a board to function exactly how I intend it to but I’ve been learning a lot online and on RUclips and I’m gaining confidence because of videos like this that I’ll be able to design something that will power and send something into a certain position from pressing different individual buttons and then wire the on and off to their own respective buttons. Any advice for things like this is appreciated, we want to wire up a wire stripper to run off elevator buttons so the button panel looks like the interior of the elevator using the 2,4,6,8 and so on floor buttons to strip that gauge wire and have the call buttons separate for on and off and have the top digital screen read on or off instead of the floor number it’s on. We didn’t get a digital screen from an elevator though we have to order one. We just got the even buttons from 2 up to 20 the door open close buttons and the up and down call buttons. We are trying to think of basic things we could build to design a board for to perform cool tasks in the little shop we are working on building. Again, any ideas are much appreciated lol.
In the end this video is sponsored by JLCPCB. Like all my recent videos and it is also mentioned in the video description. But honestly, the combination of EasyEDA+JLCPCB+LCSC is just so easy to use and budget friendly. I am very happy that I can work with them. I have all the creative freedom that I need and can make a living from creating these videos.
Yeah the combination is just awesome, jlcpcb is dead cheap and you dont have to struggle with all the package sizes because all lcsc parts are already in easyeda. You can even save shipping if you combine orders, how nice is that
I prefer to design my projects in KiCad, and order from whichever company i prefer at the time. --Thank you very much for all of your presentations. top notch work. i have not yet found an error in your information or teachings.
One thing you missed is to make sure your ground planes actually connect to each other and there are no isolated islands with ground connections. Usually the easiest way is to just stitch the top and bottom ground planes to each other where needed but also might be a good idea to also add some near any decoupling caps and larger power ground pins. I am not a pro though, this is just what I've learned over the last 6 months of getting in to PCB design.
I actually did this process recently with EasyEDA/JLCPCB. Worked like a charm and I'll do all my projects this way. Can highly recommend it. It was you who first recommended it to me, so I thank you
Wow, what an inspiring video!! !I've been meaning to make my own PCBs for years, now I'm going to start...one something really simple! Awesome channel!!!!
I don't know if you've made this video just because of my request from a few weeks ago, but this is exactly what i was looking for! I guess it's time for my first PCB-Ready Project now ;)
If your PCB has solder plating, it's easier to install SMT resistors and caps by first tacking one side into the solder plating, then solder the other side, and then solder the first side. The solder plating is just enough to hold the part while you solder the other side.
Step 1: Plan the function of circuit 1:17
Step 2: Component sourcing & paper Schematic 2:18
Step 3: Proper schematic 4:58
Step 4: PCB design & ordering 6:29
Step 5: Go back to step 1 because you accidentally made a dead short from +5v to ground
llary Step 5: find s mistake. Try to fix it on your prototype.
Step 6: start scratching leads from the pcb, add wires if needed
Step 7-10: repeat step 6 with the remaining circuit boards.
Step 11: go back to step 3 and try again
@@Krmpfpks the most depressing comment on youtube
Another easy and clean soldering technique:
m.ruclips.net/video/aEn3Wb_zrts/видео.html
@@Krmpfpks haha
You taught me in 11 mins what my Design teacher did not for entire year.. There is a lot of hard work behind your videos...Thank you very much..God bless you.
So true. So many teachers are terrible. Great Scott and all the other people like him are fantastic.
i feel like youtube is the new university
Haha I’m graduating Electrical Engineering and these things are never taught in my degree (actually only 1 lecture to be honest). I have to learn them from side project, club and co-op myself. I don’t expect school to teach many thing useful nowaday
Couple other tips that I've picked up in my time in industry so far is include testpoint vias (and local ground points) on almost all major nets/connections! This will help debugging PCBs by making it easier to pop in scope probes.
Another thing to keep in mind is power domains and signal domains. You usually want to keep these separate as much as possible to prevent interference (Along with some nice ground floods to help isolate fringing fields).
In terms of routing, it always helps to route your major signals first (i.e. RF paths > High Bandwidth Serial Paths > Low Speed Serial Paths > HF Power Paths > LF Power Paths > GPIO Lines > Power) as this will help signal integrity and generally make it easier to route.
LorneChrones I am entirely new to the whole pcb design thing and I am looking to find where to start e.g. how someone selects components (diodes, resistors, capacitors...) after deciding about the function? Any guidance would be appreciated.
Christos Kehagioglou this should be planned before making schematic. Layout is just the final step
@@ckehagioglou Did you get any leads on how to select components? I'm also new to this design thing and pretty much confused on how to move forward. I also need assistance on where to get most reliable components as well. Any guidance would be appreciated.
ruclips.net/video/ZZIEcwbOOng/видео.html
Can I pay you for an hour-long schooling session, please? The amount of knowledge you will drop on me within a simple 60-minute conversation is mind-boggling.
This is officially my favorite video on RUclips. I've always wanted to make my own PCB happen but never had it felt more approachable or attainable than after watching this.
Hey! Do you know @CarlThatDoesKillPeople?
So THAT'S how it's done! I'd been muddling through this process making all kinds of mistakes and wondering how so many people with a lot less time in electronics than I were able to do it so easily. Nice to finally be able to connect the dots, literally. Thank you for this!
0:24 I love how you actually demonstrated soldering SMD parts to a perf board :D
That was really pretty funny!!! 🤣🤣🤣
Looks pretty easy to be honest 🤣
I have not any experience with ICs; the most I've messed with circuits is soldering some LEDs, BUT you always get to keep me through the video and I actually think I understand most of it. Well done and thank you truly! You're an example of a content creator!
I am loving JLCPCB! From part picking, to schematic, to layout, to ordering the PCB and BOM.. all super seamless and easy! I'm not even getting paid for this, but I am really digging it. Glad I saw this.
I'm an electrical engineer and i love your videos. never stop
An easy rule of thumb you can use for trace widths is 10 mils (0.01") per amp. Then you only need to bust out a calculator for the really high current traces.
Afrotechmods o look who is hear....
What is that in new money?
.254 mm
Make sure to take frequency in to account though!
Traces/planes are mostly inductive. You can increase the thickness to lower the resistance, but you will realise that the inductance hardly changes!
ruclips.net/video/ZZIEcwbOOng/видео.html
Step 0: Know wtf you're doing to begin with.
This seems to be true and I don't like it. I have a simple project in mind but I don't know anything. I know KiCad is the program I need to make the schematic but I don't know how to make one or make sure I have all the pieces. I wish there was a forum/group out there that could help me learn what I need to learn.
Started my project a year ago and I lost interest because I wasn't getting anywhere.
Bro that hurt so bad 😭😭😭
@@mallvalim it’s been a year, I gave up.
It's what I hate from Content creators, they make it look easier 😢
me infront of any linux terminal for years
I love watching your videos. Honestly, your voice makes whatever your talking about seem interesting. It makes me want to learn. So thanks.
Seriously, this is one of the best videos on PCB design. I am proud to be your patreon. Keep it up!
Thanks for the feedback :-)
I have actually made my very own PCB with this tutorial, and it has worked the first time off. Not too complicated but it is great to see your design worked first shot. I have since made revisions 2 and 3 to improve on my design. And bonus, it looks professional.
90 degrees bends... It's an issue of EMI and wave propagation problem, as well as manufacturing hazard. Electrical wave passing through the copper prefers a straight line, as almost everything in physics. 90 deg bend causes the wave not to propagate properly, some of the signal might be lost or reflected. It may also interfere with other signals in the circuit. This is essential for high speed signaling where you have to keep the trace of the said width to set it to proper impedance so it can match the rest of the circuit. For the manufacturing, the more acute the bend the more risk of resulting track being "over-etched", which means being thinner than expected. With thin tracks it could lead to bad signal integrity best case and an open circuit worst case.
The other thing is that a good practice is to make the supply voltage traces as thick as possible for low inductance and low voltage drop across the trace, especially with currents closing to 1 amp and above.
Turns out right angle corners don't affect time frequency behaviour. ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/750154/
Also a 90 degree bend has inherently much wider cross section than the underlying trace width, so undercut is of no concern.
@Siana If you design for a specific track impedance, its width change changes the impedance, so 90 degree bends are worse than 45 degree or 'round' edges.
Regarding the article, I will see it at work since I have no access to IEEE from home. Either way thank you for the link.
Excuse me, are you saying physics is homophobic?
But he didn't do any 90 degree bends so people in the comments wouldn't do EXACTLY WHAT YOU DID.
Does this actually matter for analogue signals or digital under a certain speed? I thought this only started to matter in the higher MHz region.
i've studied electronics, i practiced at a company which repaired TVs (among other things) - the beginning of the plasma screen era, the first SMDs appeared back then - and I was never taught that I could solder SMDs with hot screwdriver (only the hot air gun, - they said - method was possible! which...i never advanced enough to be tought that..)
impressive & informative video!!
thank you 👏
"trust me, I'm an engineer" 0:25
I laughed so hard!
c'mon we've all tried that
legend is legend
Bruh
I've been studying electronics and discovered a fantastic website at Gregs Electro Blog (google it if you are interested)
I was just looking for a video like this, not going into too much detail but showing the overall process, but just enough so i got a better understanding and the main pointers needed. Thank you for this, it's a gem among the many electronics videos on YT, you information and production level is always spot on!
As an electrical engineering student I love you channel.
I am just leaning about designing circuits and... Your channel gives me lots of informations and new ideas.
Will be studying videos of working on pcb designing for motherboards. I just actually today got a job working for a company I am excited. This is my first time ever doing this and all the help I can get is highly appreciated. Got this weekend to do this test thanks for the video and creating this.
Un millón de gracias por todos tus videos! Yo soy Ingeniero en Energías, pero siempre fuí un apasionado de la electrónica y he hecho algunos PCB's que la verdad, da mucho gusto verlos funcionando.
they never taught me any prototyping in my mechatronics course, thank you for doing the work my school failed to do
My eyes hurt when you soldered that SMB IC to the perfboard :'D
As commercial as this video is (in a tasteful and subtle way), I personally still love it. You share the best things on this channel and it’s always a joy to watch. :)
Time for GreaScott to change the intro to a PCB then !
Hmmmmm
GreatScott! You're among the best educators on RUclips.
I am a mechanical engineer and I watch your videos even though I don't understand everything.
H M M M M M
PCB SMD
@GreatScott You should actually change the intro to you soldering the leds to a PCB
I have recently got into electronics as a hobby. I had a class on electronics in high school 31 years ago. It's amazing how much easier it is to design and produce your own PCBs now. Computers and the internet have changed how we do almost everything in our lives.
Pretty neat tutorial!. Once you shoot for more advanced projects, I would always suggest to go for 4 layers, so you can have two signal layers (front/bottom), a dedicated ground layer and a power layer inbetween (if single supply - for dual supply, use the back for the secondary voltage). This also gives you more freedom while routing. One thing I have missed was an extra note about bypass caps for active components. I have already seen people designing PCBs either not thinking about bypass caps or if they did, they "grouped" them together in a single block, far away from the active component. Rule of thumb: Put 100n as close as possible to the power pin of an active component.
Thanks! Should make some PCB layout tutorial videos. So a ground layer can be a middle layer of a PCB and that one ground layer can be shared between all components? How is a ground layer actually grounding a PCB circuit? Thanks in advance!
I don't know about anyone else but 'Let's get started!' for me means have a few deep breaths, stretch a little, chill, tune in and carry on watching and I'm not even majorly into electronics, I just like the art & craftiness of it all!
You really passed from idea to PCB, nice video. I see the bottom layer doesn't have copper fill. Did you had a reason for that? Keep up!
No big reason for that. I simply did not needed a copper layer there.
Okay. Just some info from my experience. I work a lot with this NRF24. We've made some tests with the spectrum analyzer and useing PCB antenna (not the power amplified antenna one) we've noticed way less errors and less noise when a GND copper layer is placed on PCBs. Keep up!
In general PCB design, I don't know. I was talking about RF 2.4GHz PCB antenna. And the best solution was not GND plane but the RF module outline palced on the exterior of the PCB.
Skuldugery I'm not sure how much effect it has, but if you use top and buttom fill with positive and negative voltage, it has certean amount of capacitance, very small, but at sensitive circuit you might want to know about it. Some computer manufacturers use this as capacitors.
This is a great example of how to make good paid content while keeping to the spirit of the channel! 10/10 Good job!
I've unsubscribed from a tonne of people who, when they have a large enough following, switch to paid reviews of items which are only barely related to thier channel content.
i watch hundreds of tutorials but non of them was as good as yours! keep like that! thanks
This is a great video on the general process of PCB design. I really like that you have included the step of creating a plan in the form of a block diagram. Though I'm disappointed that you've left out the importance of design rule checking. Every beginner will benefit from the use of DRC! It can point out some blatant mistakes likes shorts, unrouted nets, holes that are too close to each other, etc... This will save you time and money.
The design itself could be improved in several ways. For example:
C3 is placed in a way that beats its purpose.
The die pad of U2 should connect to GND and have a bunch of vias connecting to the bottom plane to help with heat dissipation.
The RF module should be placed so that the antenna is somewhere near the edge of the PCB pointing away with no copper near it. If you place it right above other components and metal objects it will shorten the range and degrade the signal.
If you haven't, go watch some Robert Feranec's videos. He has a ton of tips on good PCB design practices and techniques. This can save you some money and headaches in the future if you know what to pay attention to.
DRC; Clearances; Power Track (Net) Width; etc
He missed all of these stuff...
hi scott just commenting to let everyone else know i like your videos because
Excellent tutorial.
In deinem Videos habe ich mehr gelernt manchmal als wie in den Vorlesungen. Danke für die Videos!
GreatScott new video - heatbeat over 9000
Fantastic video! I followed your instructions and PCBed my latest creation. Your instructions worked perfectly, and my creation works beautifully. Thank you!
I decided to give JLCPCB a shot. They charged me 16$ on my otherwise 2$ order for color.. I needed black for light reflection properties..
Don't use colour then if you are after the 2$
GreatScott! I just found it a bit strange that they charge a flat rate for color, no matter if you buy 5pcs 5x5cm pcb, or 10000pcs 40x50cm pcb, it will always cost you 16$.
GreatScott! But, otherwise its a great service. Their capabilities are not great (flex pcb, ..), but they are rediculously cheap and the quality of the pcbs are great (at least the ones I ordered so far). I just hope via this way, they can receive some feedback. :)
Well you're paying normal price because you're falling out of a discount panel where you get combined with other orders, and after the PCB is made it's broken apart. If you ordered 10 black PCBs the size of their panel, like 60x40cm, you could expect them to cost the same regardless of lacquer colour.
Siana Gearz Nope, I was actually falling in the special tariff. The point I'm trying to make, is that they charge a flat amount of money to change the color, regardless of how much you need
I don't really know much about electronics but I'm still learning. Great video & I'll have to watch this over a few times
I want to do this for a robot module that I designed and then sell it on ebay, but is it legal to do that? At what point do you need CE or UL certification?
Useless Duck Company until and unless you want your robot to be mass produced (think more than 1000s)it's legal.
exectly my question, and the answer is pretty hard to find.
Useless Duck Company you need the ce certificate if you want to sell it in the eu, but you don't need any of those UL, GS or other testing certificates at all
UL/CE certification only matters if you intend your product to be plugged into the wall inside peoples homes, makes everybody sleep well at night. Ever hear of those hover boards that constantly caught fire, usually when recharging?! Not UL/CE certified. UL certification means that your product is subjected to laboratory testing to high levels of durability and quality. But I digress. If your building a module (likely for designing and testing or prototyping), most people buying your module will have the prototype mentality and so will take the necessary precautions to keep your device from burning down their home.
CE is not really testing though, it's just more or less the manufacturer saying it complies with european regulations.
greatscott is really great for his public service to spread his own wisdom to others. best wishes to continue you work. thank you for your video.
Where are your clearance settings? Also did you do DRC checks?
What can't you set power net to a specific width beforehand?
I think you should talk about these "safety issues" before drawing your PCB.
after a year away from EasyEDA s/w one is faced w/ many changes. frustrations being on the learning curve again. your vid' was just the cure to inspire me with can-do-ability . and has be back on track . hooyay for GS
You don't need to go full SMD when you only want to use a few SMD ICs. There are little adapter pcbs on ebay for very cheap to fit an SMD IC into a through hole world.
True
Yeah but when you are using super complex SMD ICs I think you are in a different ballpark already and going full SMD might not be such a big step anymore.
I like those little adapters mostly for experimenting on a breadboard. When the circuit design is ready, I do the PCB step. Most designs need a few changes from the first paper version until they are satisfactory.
Thank you,you should get a Nobel prize. I’ll be doing their tutorial soon, and starting simple with some boards for ws2812 arrays. Keep up the outstanding work you’re a legend my son.
3:58 - that darn greedy LED.
xD
Lol...how on earth did you spot that
For what it's worth, in many AT uCs, you don't need any external components or pins to measure battery voltage.You can set the input of the ADC to the Vbg bandgap source at 1.1V and measure what proportion of full-scale that is and so get the supply voltage. Microchip have an appnote with the details, but that's about it, really.
Great work brother
Finally someone with proper English to explain that!
"You cannot solder an SMD component to a perf board" - "Hold my beer" 0:24
Best hardware video for an aspiring electrical designer
Why noone of youtubers DOES NOT tell us about 10$ shpping costs, just the 2$ CHEAP PCB BOARDS.
I know 12$ for 10 pcbs is not expensive, but everyone is allways talking about 2$.. deam
Also isn't $2 only for your first order? It's just a loss leader to get you to use their service, they're not actually cheaper after that.
Shipping probably differs depending on country of origin...
No, that's their regular price for small PCBs... I know, it's ridiculous. I've used their PCB fabrication service a few times already. And for larger boards it's not a lot more expensive either, I think I payed something like $10 for 120x100mm PCBs.
I also have a same question , I design my first PCB but when I ordered they charge me 22 us dollars, why they don't tell shipping only talks about 2dollrs not about shipping
The first time I have ordered I also had to pay 65EUR for the customs on a order of 26USD (24 DHL shipping + 2 EUR of the PCB itself)
I started doing contract work, designing and constructing test equipment. But I was stone broke. So every software I used, was freeware. The PCB design freeware software was limited to a small number of electronic components, such 8 pin IC's, 1/4 resistors, etc., unlike the costly version. This limited number of components per PCB layout, was far below the number that I typically required. However, it did also allow you to design your own custom components. So I would design a portion of the PCB, and once I was happy with the layout of that portion, I would now turn this section into a single component. So, I was now back to having used only one component. It took a bit of work, but this trick got me to eventually complete the PCB layout.
Dhanyavaad Sirji
I know a lot of people think etching your own board is out of style in 2022, but I still do it when prototyping. I can knock a board out in 30 minutes and make sure it works the way I've designed it (in case I made a mistake in converting the schematic to an electronic format, for example).
It's also nice to see the board in real life to see if your design is going to create any issues in the assembly portion of your project, or maybe the placement of your USB jack isn't close enough to the edge of the case, etc.. Using thin magazine paper with an iron works perfectly fine. I've tried the special transfer paper, and magazine paper works better!!
idk why this is so interesting when I dont know anything about everything you talked about lel
oh yeah yeah
Probably because you learned something
its because he can explain it well in perfect slow and understandable german accented english.
I must say Great Scott this is the BEST PCB video I have ever watch on RUclips. Am your biggest fans I Love You
Not enough attention was paid to the GND... some of the GND connections would not handle 1amp current you could stitch GND near IC'S using via's
That's a good point. In many cases the ground fill won't reach all ground pads, and even when it does, it may not be a low impedance connection...
Wow danger alert, that could actually make a difference when charging the battery
ats89117 that's actually a really good point
You're right. Always make ground vias. Especially around (and even under) microcontrollers.
True. With this technique it can also happen that your currents take some ridiculous path back to the source. This can cause all sorts of problems. Always make sure to provide the shortest path.
My last order from a China PCB fab house took 37 days - long enough that when they arrived I had lost interest in my project, so I was skeptical about "and in a week, I had 10 copies of my board". I'm on my 3rd order with JLCPCB, the first two arrived 6 days after I ordered, and my 3rd order arrives today, on day 5. I don't know if they sponsored this video or not, but EasyEDA is easy to learn/use, and the fabrication process is REALLY fast and cheap... thanks for the heads up. With the limited time I have for electronics tinkering, I don't even bother breadboarding now - I just do a quick schematic and lay out a prototype PCB and order it. When it arrives, I put it together to see if it works (so far, so good), and then I copy the schematic into my main project, update the PCB with changes, and place parts and traces.
Noob question: Isn't t the voltage divider for measuring the battery voltage draining the battery?
It connects behind the power switch. Meaning it will only affect the battery when the circuit is turned on. Also I used 13.3kohm in total. That will only draw little current.
GreatScott! Thanks for clarification!
Yes it is. And it is completely unnecessary. The proper way to do this with an Atmega328 is to connect the battery as an external ADC reference and then measure the internal 1.1V reference against the battery. That way you will get a number telling you how big a portion of the battery voltage is 1.1V and you can calculate the voltage back from that. For example if the battery voltage is 4V, you will get 1.1/4*1024=281, if it is 3V, you will get 1.1/3*1024=375 and so on. If you want to get the battery voltage you simply do 1126.4/ and get the voltage (e.g. 1126.4/281=4V). In reality, you'd avoid the division by putting the ADC constant calculated above in the code. In this case he wanted to test for 3.4V, so he'd just need to see if the ADC result was higher than 1.1/3.4*1024=331.
Requires no external components and draws no current when the voltage isn't being measured (and even then it draws way less than the resistors).
But this is the GreatScott channel, so what did you expect? Not good design, surely.
@@johnfahrn5332 Does this method also work with ESP modules like 8266 and 32?
This is incredibly comprehensive for beginners like me who have never "productionised" a circuit.
Exactly! I was using perfboards for a project, but there were too many connections. I knew a PCB was the way to go, but I had no idea how. I used this tutorial and made it.
Your soldering needs work, but I like your attitude and results. Thank you :)
But.. what does your thingy do? (I missed that)
I watched this video about two months ago. Since then I've tried out EasyEDA und JLCPCB. EasyEDA turned out to be a bit cumbersome to work with because slow page loads often interrupt the process and it is also too constrained for what I wanted to do. I've since then switched to KiCad. Great program. Also works nicely on my 12'' MacBook with the touchpad. The PCBs that I ordered from JLCPCB were of excellent quality. Every board worked perfectly.
Great Scott Fans like here!
This video helped me out SOOOOOOO much! I've been designing electronics for years, but I'm very new to this software! Thanks to this video, I've figured out how to design PCBs very quickly! Love this channel!!!
Been here since 200k🙂👌
Awesome. Thanks for watching.
Kau Mohlamonyane
I'm from 40k 😎
I been here since 100k and I'll always be here. Thumbs up for Great Scott!'s videos.
I've been here for a while, but I clearly can't remember since when!
Just ordered 5 pcs with shipping to Europe for 4 quid haha. If I’d have known it was this cheap I would have done this a lot sooner. Thanks for the video!
Yeah, the PCBs cost $2, but shipping to the USA costs $18 over DHL, which is conveniently hidden until well into the order process...
Yea and when customs steps in its a pain! I had to pay more of the customs than the PCB itself!
To Europe it is around 5 dollar for shipping which is pretty good for me
@@Ouchie A čo riešite? Kúpte si kde chcete, alebo si to sami vyrobte. Skúsenosť s čínskymi výrobkami je tragická a používajú veľmi nekvalitné materiály a súčiastky. Z Číny a Poľska nikdy nič!
@@grafikajja207 I ain't Polish
Finally made my first PCB!
Actually, 90 degree corner is not a problem. The problem with 90 degree was that some older PCB EDA tools didn't support it, and it could crash it. For all other things, 90 degree corner is fine, as long as you don't run through it signal that has frequency of 9-10 GHz or more.
when you get into high speed circuits ... corners are BAD ... even angles are bad ... always smooth rounded traces otherwise you making micro vaccuum tubes on your pcb at the same time as you make the circuit ... and then stuff gets weird fast ....
But 90 degree corners are so ugly!
can 90 deg turns pick up rfi more easily?
Congratulations on 800,000 subscribers!
Thanks
I just laughed my butt off at the part where you put the SMD onto a perfboard and made a globular mess of the pins :P
Excelent step by step how to start a production of a new product after development. I´m starting as a electronics product developper and it help me a lot thanks :)
I want to see all the papers on which you drew all those schematics.
I don't want to discourage you, but you should definitely start training your soldering abilities specially when it comes to SMD components. Your channel is so great, you give lots of useful tricks and explain things carefully.
If you read this, please check out these:
-Amtech Tacky Flux, available at Rossman Group, intl shipping.
-Soldering station with T12 tips, preferably a Hakko, but KSGER T12 works fine.
-Kester flux core solder that fits your needs
Most of your soldering problems are too much heat (which consumes the little amount of flux super quick) and total lack of flux, which makes really bad connections to the PCB... For the flux cleaning just dump some isopropyl alcohol and a soft brush and you're good to go.
Also you could use solder paste with SMD components if you're not confident enough with the iron
PS: I am not the best at soldering, but I'd avoid those crunchy joints at all costs
0:24 LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL
imabeapirate OMG LOL WTF LOLOLOLOL
ROFLCOPTER
I strapped on my lolerblades and let it rip on that one
@@imabeapirate FUCKING BEYBLADE BEYBLADE LET IT RIP
wtf = LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL
Before watching this, I was still cautious of attempting my own PCB design. I've worked on perfboard, but so far haven't touched an actual Gerber file generator software. Years ago I saw a colleague's PCB file open, looked at all the crossing colored traces, and thought it would be way too complicated to try anytime soon. Your video makes PCB design seem much more approachable. Of course I'm sure there are lot of intricacies to the best practices behind PCB design. Still, thanks for breaking down the general process and giving an example. I'm looking forward to attempting my own board design with SMD components in the future because of this video.
0:25 seems legit.
This was a great watch, concise and to the point, but descriptive enough to understand everything he’s doing… all while showing you good places to get the parts and website to design and order the boards. I have no experience with this and plan on doing a lot of trial and error designing a board to function exactly how I intend it to but I’ve been learning a lot online and on RUclips and I’m gaining confidence because of videos like this that I’ll be able to design something that will power and send something into a certain position from pressing different individual buttons and then wire the on and off to their own respective buttons. Any advice for things like this is appreciated, we want to wire up a wire stripper to run off elevator buttons so the button panel looks like the interior of the elevator using the 2,4,6,8 and so on floor buttons to strip that gauge wire and have the call buttons separate for on and off and have the top digital screen read on or off instead of the floor number it’s on. We didn’t get a digital screen from an elevator though we have to order one. We just got the even buttons from 2 up to 20 the door open close buttons and the up and down call buttons. We are trying to think of basic things we could build to design a board for to perform cool tasks in the little shop we are working on building. Again, any ideas are much appreciated lol.
*hard laughting* 8:55
All the electrons will fly out!
This is what I am looking for
GREAT..... SCOTT....😘😘😘👏👏👏
It smells like advertisement
GreatScott provides superior content every week. If he makes a few quid from videos like this then I say good for him.
Honestly, who cares? The video is great.
In the end this video is sponsored by JLCPCB. Like all my recent videos and it is also mentioned in the video description. But honestly, the combination of EasyEDA+JLCPCB+LCSC is just so easy to use and budget friendly. I am very happy that I can work with them. I have all the creative freedom that I need and can make a living from creating these videos.
Yeah the combination is just awesome, jlcpcb is dead cheap and you dont have to struggle with all the package sizes because all lcsc parts are already in easyeda. You can even save shipping if you combine orders, how nice is that
A very pleasant, useful and enjoyable one
I know nothing about pcbs, this was eye opening.
I prefer to design my projects in KiCad, and order from whichever company i prefer at the time. --Thank you very much for all of your presentations. top notch work. i have not yet found an error in your information or teachings.
I'm a fan of GreatScott coz I learned a lot from his video, keep up the good work dude, share knowledge for a better world
This tutorial is just perfect. Well explained, not boring with details and straight to the point. Keep it up!!
Thankyou for this. There needs to be more videos like this on youtube.
One thing you missed is to make sure your ground planes actually connect to each other and there are no isolated islands with ground connections. Usually the easiest way is to just stitch the top and bottom ground planes to each other where needed but also might be a good idea to also add some near any decoupling caps and larger power ground pins.
I am not a pro though, this is just what I've learned over the last 6 months of getting in to PCB design.
I actually did this process recently with EasyEDA/JLCPCB. Worked like a charm and I'll do all my projects this way. Can highly recommend it. It was you who first recommended it to me, so I thank you
You have given me an answer for a question that I had for a long time, thank you very much.
Your paperwork (namely schematics) - is unbelievably professional and "neat"
Wow, what an inspiring video!! !I've been meaning to make my own PCBs for years, now I'm going to start...one something really simple! Awesome channel!!!!
Congratulations on successfully completing the project.
A small suggestion, you could have also showed how the finished product worked!!!
Another excellent tutorial!!!!! Probably the best electronics tutorials, by far!!!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!!
I don't know if you've made this video just because of my request from a few weeks ago, but this is exactly what i was looking for! I guess it's time for my first PCB-Ready Project now ;)
Excellent tutorial. Most complete and systematic video on idea to pcb. Thanks
Excellent explanation. I wish all tutorial videos were this clear.
Thank you for introducing me to EasyEDA/JLCPCB. The two websites have helped me out a lot in one of my projects. Very useful and helpful. Thank you!
Just made my first PCB :) Thanks GreatScott you are awesome!!!
Lol Scott your upload schedule is almost perfect. You upload ebike videos as I am building my own and now this PCB as I am designing one!
If your PCB has solder plating, it's easier to install SMT resistors and caps by first tacking one side into the solder plating, then solder the other side, and then solder the first side. The solder plating is just enough to hold the part while you solder the other side.