This channel is perfect for us shade tree classic Mustang enthusiasts. So many channels seem to focus on mainly the engine. I appreciate that you take the time to include all the peripheral areas of these classic Mustangs.
No problem Brotha! This is a big reason why I do these videos, somebody somewhere doesn't know about some part and they want to be able to change it/upgrade it themselves. :)
Pro tip I learned with all my cooling issues is leave the intake manifold hose off when you fill the radiator with coolant and once you are on your second gallon of coolant put a shop towel near the end of the intake outlet and once it starts to come out the intake put the hose on and tighten the clamp and fill the rest of the radiator. It will purge out most of the air automatically (if you have a super quiet garage you can actually hear the air come out of the intake outlet it’s sorta cool. Also same crap happened to me but I just put a bypass hose since it doesn’t get too cold here anyways didn’t want to take mine apart since I also have oem ac and didn’t want to open the box all over again. Just going to save up for vintage air at some point lol.
That's a good tip, I may try that next time. Yeah, I was heavily leaning towards just leaving the heater system out of the car when I pulled it several months ago. I don't drive the car when it's bad weather, and that includes winters, so I don't really need the heater. But it does make the car overall more desirable if I ever sell it, and there's a little bit of knowledge I can pass on in a video, so it will help somebody out there. :)
Good Catch finding the leak and clamp issue! Makes perfect sense. My Mustang heater box and heater core etc, is not even in the car. Ex-drag car no cold weather driving. Have the original heater box (67) if anyone interested. Thanks for sharing Andy! Good Stuff.
Hi Andy, gates p# 28480 is a straight 5/8 heater hose with a 90 deg bend at the end. It fits the water pump perfectly to allow the heater hose to lay almost flat against the intake.
I did the same thing. Andy opted for the long tube. Also I was able to cut down my heater hose because it was a lot longer. Can’t wait to hear the bad boy stroker drive down the road 🏁
HOSES: Manifold port goes to the lower core inlet. in the bottom Out the top If you get them backwards the heater core will keep an air bubble inside and youll never get enough heat. Also, the thermostat needs a 3/32 hole in the outer ring to let the air out of the block for an easy fill. BTW: The factory hose elbow at the manifold outlet has a flow restrictor in it... So high rpm wont blow the core apart. You can use a restrictor inside the heater hose like chevy did.
Haha, took me a second to understand what you meant, but yes, getting the motor back on the wheels is where this car needs to be. :) Now you know what heater core to put in where you get to that part on your car.
One thing I did was slide a length of hose down the tubes. This serves to seal the holes in the firewall, insulate the tubes inside the car, and allows the end of the heater hoses to have a gap so any coolant leak will not end up inside the car. See my video here: ruclips.net/video/_8p7Sqx5Uk4/видео.html
That's a clever idea, I should have done something like that. Maybe the next time I take those hose off I can fit a small piece of hose on there too. 😀
Hard to say for sure without doing a pressure test to find/see the leak. However, look at the bright side, you don't have to pull the entire dash like our newer Mustangs!
We appreciate your videos a lot. Do you know what the best complete front end upgrade is for a ‘65 daily driver that I’m doing a 100% nut and bolt restoration on?
it seems like a poor design choice to have the coolant hoses go though the firewall and into the car. mine has the same thing and I baffled a couple of my friends who restored classic cars.
One thing that running the hoses through the firewall does do is reduce the stress on the tubes feeding the core. Meaning, the long tubes have to reach out farther, and any load induced by the heater hoses in the engine bay gets amplified on those long tubes. But since I don't daily this car, I imagine those stresses are less than when the car was new. :)
This channel is perfect for us shade tree classic Mustang enthusiasts. So many channels seem to focus on mainly the engine. I appreciate that you take the time to include all the peripheral areas of these classic Mustangs.
No problem Brotha! This is a big reason why I do these videos, somebody somewhere doesn't know about some part and they want to be able to change it/upgrade it themselves. :)
Pro tip I learned with all my cooling issues is leave the intake manifold hose off when you fill the radiator with coolant and once you are on your second gallon of coolant put a shop towel near the end of the intake outlet and once it starts to come out the intake put the hose on and tighten the clamp and fill the rest of the radiator. It will purge out most of the air automatically (if you have a super quiet garage you can actually hear the air come out of the intake outlet it’s sorta cool. Also same crap happened to me but I just put a bypass hose since it doesn’t get too cold here anyways didn’t want to take mine apart since I also have oem ac and didn’t want to open the box all over again. Just going to save up for vintage air at some point lol.
That's a good tip, I may try that next time.
Yeah, I was heavily leaning towards just leaving the heater system out of the car when I pulled it several months ago. I don't drive the car when it's bad weather, and that includes winters, so I don't really need the heater. But it does make the car overall more desirable if I ever sell it, and there's a little bit of knowledge I can pass on in a video, so it will help somebody out there. :)
that is how I do it too, works every time.
Good Catch finding the leak and clamp issue! Makes perfect sense. My Mustang heater box and heater core etc, is not even in the car. Ex-drag car no cold weather driving. Have the original heater box (67) if anyone interested. Thanks for sharing Andy! Good Stuff.
I get lucky every once in a while. Or maybe unlucky if it was my fault for putting that clamp in the wrong place? :)
@@AndyKruseChannel No harm done Andy. We learn from our miscues. And, we get to learn from good guys like you also. Appreciate you sir.
Hi Andy, gates p# 28480 is a straight 5/8 heater hose with a 90 deg bend at the end. It fits the water pump perfectly to allow the heater hose to lay almost flat against the intake.
Yeah, I've seen a few hoses like that, it's on the list of wants, but I don't always get what I want. :)
Great to see your channel grow!
Thanks!
I did the same thing. Andy opted for the long tube. Also I was able to cut down my heater hose because it was a lot longer. Can’t wait to hear the bad boy stroker drive down the road 🏁
Yeah, I think this will be better in the long run. :)
HOSES:
Manifold port goes to the lower core inlet.
in the bottom
Out the top
If you get them backwards the heater core will keep an air bubble inside and youll never get enough heat.
Also, the thermostat needs a 3/32 hole in the outer ring to let the air out of the block for an easy fill.
BTW: The factory hose elbow at the manifold outlet has a flow restrictor in it... So high rpm wont blow the core apart.
You can use a restrictor inside the heater hose like chevy did.
Thanks for the heads up.
Looking good - those motor wheels are especially important! I think the long tube heater core is a no brainer purely for the sake of accessibility.
Haha, took me a second to understand what you meant, but yes, getting the motor back on the wheels is where this car needs to be. :)
Now you know what heater core to put in where you get to that part on your car.
One thing I did was slide a length of hose down the tubes. This serves to seal the holes in the firewall, insulate the tubes inside the car, and allows the end of the heater hoses to have a gap so any coolant leak will not end up inside the car.
See my video here: ruclips.net/video/_8p7Sqx5Uk4/видео.html
That's a clever idea, I should have done something like that. Maybe the next time I take those hose off I can fit a small piece of hose on there too. 😀
Hard to say for sure without doing a pressure test to find/see the leak. However, look at the bright side, you don't have to pull the entire dash like our newer Mustangs!
It always helps when we compare this kind of stuff the PITA things we have to do on modern cars. :)
Really enjoyed that thanks 😊
Your welcome! 😁
Everyone should do this while they have the heater box out.
Agreed!! And now that they're back in stock everywhere, it removes all the other excuses. :)
Dang now I gotta do mine
Haha, you're welcome? :)
Wow good catch I think you are right
Be careful, telling me I'm right might go to my head! :)
Building a 66 knotchback. Think I will do this swap before sliding the motor in.
Sounds like a great idea, it will be a little easier doing it now vs later. :)
We appreciate your videos a lot. Do you know what the best complete front end upgrade is for a ‘65 daily driver that I’m doing a 100% nut and bolt restoration on?
Not sure what you mean by complete front end upgrade?
I didn’t know they made a long tube heater core Do You have a part Number for the long Tube Heater Core Thanks Tom
I always put this stuff in the description of the video, but here's the part number: C5DZ-18476-ET
Nice video, kind of surprised you didn’t install a vintage air unit or old air products. Next time
Vintage Air would be nice, but it's not in the budget. :)
Just $1000+...
You can pressure test those cores.
Yes
it seems like a poor design choice to have the coolant hoses go though the firewall and into the car. mine has the same thing and I baffled a couple of my friends who restored classic cars.
One thing that running the hoses through the firewall does do is reduce the stress on the tubes feeding the core. Meaning, the long tubes have to reach out farther, and any load induced by the heater hoses in the engine bay gets amplified on those long tubes. But since I don't daily this car, I imagine those stresses are less than when the car was new. :)