My PowerShield has arrived - not had a chance to try it yet - thanks for all of this. How likely is it that the booster project will be progressing soon? Cheers Bill
Hi Hans, this is a really useful video. What configuration would be needed to run a Powershield main track at 22v for G Scale and a motorshield programming track? I have components for a stack from the bottom of Arduino Mega, Arduino Motorshield, Powershield (internal version), DCC Aux shield which I think is straightforward for 18v - the setup shown at 15:30. For 22v, would I need a 22v power supply, supplying the Powershield separately? I currently only have 18v. I think I would need to change the VIN jumper on the Powershield to avoid exceeding voltage for the rest of the stack? How would I configure the other boards in the stack? Would they need a separate 18v power supply? Thanks!
Yes, that's simple and straight forward. You power the stack through the DCC AUX shield with 18Volts. On the PowerShield, you leave the VIN jumper open and power the DC input from your 22V supply. In this case I would also use input A2 for the PowerShield current sensor, that way you don't have to modify the motorshield board which uses A0 and A1. For the DCC signals you can use IO3 and IO12, same as on the standard motorshield. It does not matter that the motorshield will remain connected to those signals as you don't use that channel. Hope that helps.
Hi. Really helpful video. I noticed that my 2 boards don’t have capacitors on the main board. Are they required for this version of the boards? I have power shield revision 3.
The four capacitors on the main board were intended as alternative to the one on the IBT-2 board, which then would have to be removed. The reason was I was not sure whether it would work out with the hole in the main board and the stacking height, so I wanted to have an alternative. Obviously, it did work out, no need to remove the large capacitor and replace it four smaller ones.
I never thought of the modification to the motor shield board as hard to reverse as the bridge is actually designed to be removed and then bridged by a solder bridge, hence why it has the two pads so close together, should you decide to use your motorshield in a different application. With that said, my use of DCC Ex and the motorshields is designed to be on my main railway layout, so I don't have any plans to remove the controller for my track :). Motorshields are pretty cheap to buy as well.
Hi Hans - ready to configure my DCC EX system just checking that I am not going to make smoke! My stack from bottom to top is Arduino - Arduino Motor Shield - RedHat++ with IoTT Stick - Power Shield. DCC low power out on Power Shield connects to DCC in on RedHat. Power in to Power Shield. Once I have configured and uploaded software with settings for the Power Shield I should be able to connect power and track and run trains. Am I good to go? Thanks. Bill
Sounds good. The only thing is, the power shield needs to be below the RedHat or you will not be able to install the Stick and see the display. The RedHat really needs to be on the top. Power goes into the PowerShield and if you set the VIN jumper on the PowerShield, it will power the entire shield stack. Just make sure to not exceed 18V. If you use higher voltage (or as a measure to absolutely make it impossible to burn the Arduino), you can simply bend away the VIN pin between the Arduino and the next board (in your case the motorshield), so that all boards get VIN except for the Arduino, which then is powered only by the 5V pin. Another safe method, particularly if you do not trust your settings, is using a low track voltage first (e.g. 10V, which is safe for the Arduino) and check the functions, and only go to the final track voltage if you have confirmation that everything works. For the configuration, the settings shown in this video should work no problem.
The motor driver boards which were purchased from you do not seat properly on my Arduino mega 2560 keyestudio board. It is prevented from doing this by hitting the usb connector and power connector on the Arduino. I can send you an image. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Thank you.
It is not uncommon that the first add-on board touches the USB and power connector on an Arduino. Try for example with a standard motor driver board, it is the same. And it does not mean that the board is not seated properly. What is important is that the pins make proper contact, and for that they do not have to be fully inserted. There is one point you should watch, though: The USB connector housing has ground potential. You may want to put a small piece of electrical tape on top of it to prevent accidental contact with metallic parts of the upper board. No problem on the DC plug side, as the jack housing is non conducting. You can also prevent the board from going all in and conserve a small gap. This is automatically the case if you use the Arduino case I published (see video #108) as the housing elements provide a stop to keep the next board in the correct distance. Alternatively you can put in a spacer part on the pin connector. e.g. the plastic eyes from a pin header. Put one or two over some of the pins of the upper board before inserting it into the Arduino. This keeps the distance and the board level. Hope that helps.
Another timely video. Great help! Really enjoy starting my Sunday mornings with your videos! Thanks Hans.
Thank you!
My PowerShield has arrived - not had a chance to try it yet - thanks for all of this. How likely is it that the booster project will be progressing soon? Cheers Bill
Not sure about the booster, it is not on the top of the list for sure. Maybe later in the year, we will see. After all, it is just a hobby ;-)
Hi Hans, this is a really useful video.
What configuration would be needed to run a Powershield main track at 22v for G Scale and a motorshield programming track? I have components for a stack from the bottom of Arduino Mega, Arduino Motorshield, Powershield (internal version), DCC Aux shield which I think is straightforward for 18v - the setup shown at 15:30.
For 22v, would I need a 22v power supply, supplying the Powershield separately? I currently only have 18v. I think I would need to change the VIN jumper on the Powershield to avoid exceeding voltage for the rest of the stack?
How would I configure the other boards in the stack? Would they need a separate 18v power supply? Thanks!
Yes, that's simple and straight forward. You power the stack through the DCC AUX shield with 18Volts. On the PowerShield, you leave the VIN jumper open and power the DC input from your 22V supply. In this case I would also use input A2 for the PowerShield current sensor, that way you don't have to modify the motorshield board which uses A0 and A1. For the DCC signals you can use IO3 and IO12, same as on the standard motorshield. It does not matter that the motorshield will remain connected to those signals as you don't use that channel.
Hope that helps.
@@IoTT thanks so much for the super-speedy reply Hans! That's very clear. I'll let you know how I get on.
Hi. Really helpful video. I noticed that my 2 boards don’t have capacitors on the main board. Are they required for this version of the boards? I have power shield revision 3.
The four capacitors on the main board were intended as alternative to the one on the IBT-2 board, which then would have to be removed. The reason was I was not sure whether it would work out with the hole in the main board and the stacking height, so I wanted to have an alternative. Obviously, it did work out, no need to remove the large capacitor and replace it four smaller ones.
@@IoTT thank you so much.
I never thought of the modification to the motor shield board as hard to reverse as the bridge is actually designed to be removed and then bridged by a solder bridge, hence why it has the two pads so close together, should you decide to use your motorshield in a different application.
With that said, my use of DCC Ex and the motorshields is designed to be on my main railway layout, so I don't have any plans to remove the controller for my track :). Motorshields are pretty cheap to buy as well.
I agree, it is quite easy - but then I get sometimes questions that make me doubt ;-)
Hi Hans - ready to configure my DCC EX system just checking that I am not going to make smoke! My stack from bottom to top is Arduino - Arduino Motor Shield - RedHat++ with IoTT Stick - Power Shield. DCC low power out on Power Shield connects to DCC in on RedHat. Power in to Power Shield. Once I have configured and uploaded software with settings for the Power Shield I should be able to connect power and track and run trains. Am I good to go? Thanks. Bill
Sounds good. The only thing is, the power shield needs to be below the RedHat or you will not be able to install the Stick and see the display. The RedHat really needs to be on the top.
Power goes into the PowerShield and if you set the VIN jumper on the PowerShield, it will power the entire shield stack. Just make sure to not exceed 18V. If you use higher voltage (or as a measure to absolutely make it impossible to burn the Arduino), you can simply bend away the VIN pin between the Arduino and the next board (in your case the motorshield), so that all boards get VIN except for the Arduino, which then is powered only by the 5V pin. Another safe method, particularly if you do not trust your settings, is using a low track voltage first (e.g. 10V, which is safe for the Arduino) and check the functions, and only go to the final track voltage if you have confirmation that everything works.
For the configuration, the settings shown in this video should work no problem.
The motor driver boards which were purchased from you do not seat properly on my Arduino mega 2560 keyestudio board. It is prevented from doing this by hitting the usb connector and power connector on the Arduino. I can send you an image. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Thank you.
It is not uncommon that the first add-on board touches the USB and power connector on an Arduino. Try for example with a standard motor driver board, it is the same. And it does not mean that the board is not seated properly. What is important is that the pins make proper contact, and for that they do not have to be fully inserted.
There is one point you should watch, though: The USB connector housing has ground potential. You may want to put a small piece of electrical tape on top of it to prevent accidental contact with metallic parts of the upper board. No problem on the DC plug side, as the jack housing is non conducting.
You can also prevent the board from going all in and conserve a small gap. This is automatically the case if you use the Arduino case I published (see video #108) as the housing elements provide a stop to keep the next board in the correct distance. Alternatively you can put in a spacer part on the pin connector. e.g. the plastic eyes from a pin header. Put one or two over some of the pins of the upper board before inserting it into the Arduino. This keeps the distance and the board level.
Hope that helps.
@@IoTT thanks for the information. I have installed the board and it is working properly.
When will dc district released
That's a question to ask the DCC EX developers. No idea, sorry.
@@IoTT thank you