you all prolly dont give a shit but does any of you know of a way to get back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly forgot the account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Corey Luka Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Agree with your assessment, I have used the Schumacher SE-520 to 'revitalize' several batteries where the maintainers simply did not sense a battery present. The manual mode simply is a 'charge no matter what', and must be closely monitored, or the battery may simply 'boil out' or swell to the point of no return. As you said, manual charge until the voltage is up enuf to use a maintainer. Good Job.
Making use of the ruclips.net/user/postUgkxcJ22tnHH9l1vjdIdEIG27iOG55P7LXI8 reconditioning plan, I just saved 2 auto batteries from being completely junked. The guides were very simple to follow. I wish I would have found this years ago! You may use the guide to recondition any battery type
This was a suggested video because I was recently looking for my video about this. You really did a good job and have a great grasp on how chargers work. I didn't really know that a automatic charger wouldn't start with an overly discharged battery. I really needed to know that a couple of times! LOL I had a suspicion but at the time I didn't think there was anything I could do about it. Batteries in parallel, duh! :)
Thank you. I'm glad that you enjoyed the video and learned something. Charging automotive batteries is a very confusing topic to say the least. Seems like most automotive techs lack a basic knowledge of battery charging. So it can be hard to find accurate information. I'll be sure to check out your video. Thanks for the sub!
I've had a charger just like this for about 2 decades. I've used the 55AMP start mode many, many times on old beaters that I had. It works GREAT to start a car with a battery that is dead. Leave it on for about 5 minutes, start the vehicle, then leave it on 10 amps for a while longer.
@@doloresdavidson-george5495 I would only use the start mode if the battery is deeply discharged and will not trigger a charging cycle (very common problem with automatic style battery chargers). Do not try to charge a battery with the start mode. Either use it to start a dead battery in a car or use it to "jump start" a charging cycle with the battery charger, inside or out of the vehicle.
Yes. I agree about battery start modes. Bigger boxes have maybe 110 amps vs the 55 amps here. Trouble is...if an electrical system isn't healthy you can start a fire. I carefully and rarely use such settings.
DE Nichols: It is much safer to just charge the battery. However, when you are short for time, jumping or using the engine boost is really the only option available. I try to avoid using engine start as much as I can.
Great video! It confirmed my suspicion about the battery charger I have (Schumacher SC1308) not detecting a high enough voltage on my lawn mower battery, When attempting to charge the battery, the charger turns on and then immediately off. Thanks!
there are a lot of smart chargers that can detect a discharged, sulfated, faulty, or healthy full charged battery and apply the correct power supply to it neccessary to revive or just maintain it
thanks, still using this, i needed the part about manual charging onthe schmacher to revive a deeply dicscharged battery, to get it going before i switch to automatic. it was sitting there doing nothing.
Thank you so much for your time & expertise. I watched all 3 of your charger related workshops. My situation is a bit different. I would like to purchase a good quality manual charger to use in removing rust. I have seen numerous videos and can't wait till spring to start restoring a vintage table saw I had given to me. Do you have any thoughts regarding that since the manuals are becoming somewhat of a dinosaur? I guess a combo of a manual/auto would be fine too. Schumacher seems to be the deal. Thank you again, Jim
+James Wiskus Your welcome James. Thank you for watching. Your best bet is to look at wheeled chargers. I'm not sure how much amperage output you are looking for but Schumacher and Forney are a good way to go. Here is a link to a couple of Forney models that may interest you. ruclips.net/video/9m7Iw5PE4aU/видео.html
Thanks so much, I actually have this narrowed down to 2 different Schumacher chargers. One is SE-82-6, 12V 6A. The other is discontinued but a friend has 6 of them 1050-PE in his shop brand new for 50.00 each. It's supposed to be a 10A. My question is will 4A make that much difference? I wouldn't think so other than one will clean a bit quicker. Just wondering your thoughts since the 1050-PE is discontinued and the SE-82-6 is still available. Just thinking about parts availability. Here is a link to the two chargers, www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SE-82-6-Dual-Rate-Battery-Charger/dp/B0009IBJBM www.amazon.com/Schumacher-1050-PE-Signature-Starter-Emergency/dp/B00002N6TW
+James Wiskus I don't have any experience with using a battery charger to remove rust. However, I think you should buy the least expensive one because I doubt there will be much difference between the 10 and the 6 amp output.
Highest charge rate on most car batteries will not harm them. In about 1 hour your car can be started and on the way. 80-90% charged. Lower charge rate gives a better overall better charge. 12-24 hour.
quick question,i just bough 2 T105RE 6 volt trojan golf cart batteries, hooked up in series for 12 volt system ,,,,first time i hooked them up to a 1.5 charger /maintainer they reached 13.6 before charge light turned green,,,,,,,a week later i hooked it up again but they reached 14.6 and still no green light,, i disconnected charger in fear of over charge,,,,,,,,,should i have allowed the charging process to continue to green light appeared ?........were the batteries attempting to equalize ?
+bob woerner Sounds like they were not done taking a charge yet. What is the amp hour rating of the batteries you bought? I looked up the specs on the T105RE and it looks like there are four different amp hour ratings available. All of them are very high. I would suggest that you use a battery charger with a higher amperage output to charge them because the 1.5 amp charger/maintainer is not going to be enough power to charge them in a timely manner. I would try using a 10 amp charger and see what happens. The other thing you can try is to disconnect the ground cable from the vehicle. Some times I run into batteries that won't take a proper charge because there is something in the vehicle drawing power. Disconnecting the ground wire will isolate the battery and allow it to charge properly. This usually only happens when there is an after market stereo amp that has been wired hot to the battery but it's worth a shot to try it. I also had a diesel truck in the shop one time that would not take a charge. When I disconnected the batteries from each other (they are wired in parallel) one battery took a charge and the other one didn't. In that case the bad battery was placing a parasitic draw on the good battery, preventing a proper charge. That may be another problem for you as well... if one battery has gone bad... it will draw the good battery down. I know your batteries are new... but that doesn't mean that one of them is not damaged or bad. It's worth looking into. So I would suggest the following...1. Try to charge them with a higher amp charger. (I am very confident that this will fix your problem)2. Try disconnecting the ground wire and charge them. Do not disconnect the wire that is creating the series connection, just the ground wire that connects the battery to the vehicle.3. Remove them, separate them, and load test them both to confirm they are both healthy. Be sure to use a 6 volt scale to test them.I hope this helps.
im guessing you live some where thats warm even in the winter. the 55 amp start option is for those unexpected fronts rolling in throught the night and even though you plugged the block heater in the battery just doesnt have enough ooomph to it to start the car
I live close to Chicago, so it can be brutally cold here some times. I did not purchase the charger for the 55 amp engine start mode. It just happened to have it. 55 amp is actually kinda weak any ways. But some times it can help you out if your battery isn't discharged too much. Every vehicle I own is kept on a battery maintainer, so I never need the start mode any ways. If you would like to learn more about how beneficial a battery maintainer can be, check out this video: ruclips.net/video/biwTpBFM-ns/видео.html
My red and black ends came off u know what side they go back on there's letters on one side the cord and not on the other so is that the black one and red on the other side!??
James Lydon: Yes, you can. That is what it is designed for. However, be sure to read the instructions for using the engine start mode. You want to charge the battery on the highest amp setting for as long as you can before using the engine start mode.
Battery charging at 2 or 10 amp; aren't they on a different tap from the transformer? So perhaps when the charger fails you could still use the start side to get your battery going.
I think you are right about the transformer. However, depending on the state of charge, the battery may need to be charged prior to using the engine start. So it really depends on the situation at hand.
Dano1947: How do you like the Elantra? I seems like Hyundai makes some quality products now. They have come a VERY long way since the 1990's. I have never owned one but I have been in plenty of them at the shops I have worked at. They seem like a good choice. I personally think the Sonata is a really sharp looking car.
Isn't it surprising that so far no one has thought to come up with a programmable charger where e digitally set parameters and charger act accordingly?
I think the reply to your comment is a yes and a no. Yes, that is an awesome idea... but no, it doesn't surprise me that no one has made a charger like that because battery charging is such a misunderstood topic that very few people have an interest in. . . until their vehicle won't start! Everyone who owns a car should own a battery charger. Few people seem to understand that.
FWH79: the only problem with regular maintenance is the high cost of after market and the maintenance costs. That is not what the mechanic makes, just the company and it's a rip off.
Not necessarily... is the battery hooked up to a vehicle? Most new battery chargers have safety features that make charging a dead or deeply discharged battery difficult.
Schumacher INC-4825A '25 Amp' 48V Digital Charger Found it on amazon for $241.00. Looks like it does lead acid. Not sure if you could use it for an AGM battery.
Indeed. I couldn't find a good picture to see all of the features of the DieHard model. However, it seems to be very similar to the Century model in this video. Not a bad battery charger but to me, these days, it's a smart charger or nothing. Smart battery chargers offer numerous advantages that can not be over looked.
I have an older Schumacher. Not seeing 10 or 2 amp switch, but is maintenance free setting a 2 amp?. Mine has 6 or 12 v switch and conventional &low maintenance vs deep cycle, maintenance free switch
CaliCal68: Could be a few things... You might have a connection problem with the charger. Remove the charger leads and then reconnect them. If you are charging on a higher amp setting, switch to the lowest amp setting. Sometimes when you charge on a high amp setting in the "automatic" mode, the charger will trigger on and off when it is close to a full charge. Usually setting the charger to the lowest amp setting helps it finish a charge without bouncing the needle. Finally, a bouncing needle can indicate a bad battery. If you suspect a bad battery, take it to an automotive parts store and have it load tested.
The needle on the gauge reads the real-time amperage draw. The amperage is how much power the battery is pulling from the charger. So when the needle sweeps to the zero part of the gauge, it is charged up. For example, if the battery is very discharged and you set the charger to the 10 amp setting, the gauge will sweep up to 10 amps and slowly fall down to zero as the battery takes a charge. If the battery is only partially discharged the needle may only jump up to 5 amps and then slowly fall down as the battery takes a charge.
MB Legend: Usually charge on the lowest setting that time permits. Most people are always in a rush and don't have time for a low Amp charge setting. Or, use a battery maintainer and always have a fully charged battery.
@@fwh79FOXR6 that's true. The reason why I opt for the "slow and low" is to protect the modern day electronics. I have a smart automatic car charger and I do some charging every once in awhile.
I have an Autocraft 2/12/75 amp charger and I am not getting anything through to the hookup clamps. You can even touch them together and there is no spark. What do you think the problem is? It is only less than 2 years old and used less than 6 times. Thanks
sherry davis: You are probably having trouble triggering a charge cycle because the battery you are trying to charge is too discharged. I tried to find the charger you have and it looks like your Autocraft charger is fully automatic. This is a common problem with fully automatic chargers. If the battery you are trying to charge has a voltage that is too low for the charger to "sense" the charger will not trigger a charge cycle. It is a safety feature, but all it seems to accomplish is make people angry because their charger won't charge a battery. So what you need to to do, is increase the voltage of the battery to trigger the charger. There are a few different ways to do this. You can use the 75 amp start mode. However, that can be dangerous if the battery is in poor condition. So, I would avoid doing that. I would suggest that you get a set of jumper cables and hook up the battery you are trying to charge to a known good battery. When you hook up the jumper cables the good battery is going to send voltage to the discharged battery. This will allow the charger to "sense" that a battery is connected to the charger and fire a charging cycle. So hook up the battery you want to charge, to a battery that you know is charged with jumper cables and let it sit for 10 minutes. Then, disconnect the jumper cables from the good battery and hook up the charger. During the 10 minutes the discharged battery should absorb enough voltage to be able to trigger the automatic charger when you hook it up to the battery charger again. Try that out and let me know how it goes for you.
Look for a circuit breaker somewhere. Some chargers won't 'start' until it senses a battery or 'load' present. Most chargers have an internal circuit breaker that will eventually reset, but some older models have a manual reset button somewhere. be careful..
I looked through the comments and didn't find an answer to my problem... do you know what it means when I hook up my Sears fully automatic charger to my car battery (@2amps, Low-Maintenance Battery mode) and the needle continuously jumps between full charge and about 75% charged? The needle cycles every few seconds. Thx for your videos.
You are welcome. Thank you for asking for help. Do you have a model number for the charger you are using? Are you charging a car battery? Is it in the car hooked up or outside of the car? Is the battery out in cold, possibly freezing weather? What amperage setting(s) does the charger have? Depending on the state of charge of the battery, the charger many be having problems triggering a proper charge cycle. Deeply discharged batteries can actually freeze, which will cause charging problems. Also, a deeply discharged battery will some times not have enough voltage to trigger the automatic charger (this is a built in safety feature). You could also have a bad battery (shorted plates inside the battery) that will some times cause the needle to sweep the way you are describing. Please tell me what you are charging and why you are charging (car won't start?) and it will help me better answer your question.
Thx for the reply... It's a Sears DieHard, Model 28-71222 Fully Automatic 12-volt battery charger. It has 3 amp settings: 50-amp Engine Start (which I don't like to use), 10-amp Fast Charge, and 2-amp Slow Charge. I have it set to Slow Charge. There are two battery type settings: Conventional Low Maintenance and Maintenance Free Deep Cycle. I'm using the Conventional setting. The battery is in the car, a 2000 VW Golf TDI (diesel). It was -15°F overnight and I knew I'd have problems starting this morning so when I went out I immediately put the charger on to give it a boost. That's when I noticed the needle swinging back and forth between "Charged" and about 75%. Actually, about a half hour after I posted my question, the needle stopped swinging and showed a full charge. I disconnected it and tried starting but quickly used up whatever actual charge was in the battery. I'm about to go out and try again. The thing is that I had the car in the shop last week for a "check engine llight" diagnosis (it was the glowplugs) and they told me after a routine check that my battery was in good condition. Well, maybe the "swinging needle" is just something to ignore and I should just let the battery charge. If I have any other problems I'll let you know. Thanks again for the quick reply. 👍
Thank you for the detailed reply. Makes helping you much easier! It sounds like you are doing everything correctly with the charger. One thing to keep in mind is the temperature. As a battery discharges, the water/acid in the battery becomes less acidic and more like water. This greatly increases the chances of the battery freezing. A cold battery is resistant to charging and trying to charge a frozen battery is down right dangerous. You may want to remove the battery from the vehicle and allow it to warm up inside. Then charge the battery in a well ventilated area after it reaches room temperature. The other issue is the fact that you are starting a diesel engine. Diesel engines usually have a much higher compression ratio than petrol engines, which greatly increases the power requirements for starting. This puts a much greater demand on the battery and is the reason why most diesel trucks have two batteries. The dual batteries provide more amperage for starting in cold/freezing weather. Maybe you should get a second opinion on the condition of the battery. If it is more than 2 or 3 years old, it could need replacing. I would highly recommend an AGM battery if you end up needing a new battery. They are expensive, but worth the money. Almost a requirement for diesel applications in my opinion. I would also recommend using a battery maintainer. Especially when temps get below 40 degrees F. Schumacher makes a nice on board maintainer that plugs into an extension cord. Another alternative would be to buy a jump box. You can use the jump box for those cold morning starts (dual battery). Be sure to keep the jump box charged up and you should be good. Plus you can keep the box in the car as a plan B if your car will not start away from home. You could even charge the jump box over night every time you come home so it is ready to go in the morning. Hope this information helps you out and thanks for watching.
Great info! I will start by looking around for an AGM battery. A jump box would also be a good thing to have. 👍 Btw, my second try at starting my Golf was successful. It had warmed up to +10 by that time and the charger had been on it for about 3 hours. Have a good year. :)
Just subscribe your channel. Have a question ? Would this one charge dead battery or gott have few volts on the battery in order to start charging 🤔. Another word does the terminal have live voltage ⚡ running if the touch each other they sparks. I bought the same company one but it's not live if the battery has like 2-3 voltage then it's it starts charging otherwise it doesn't even read the battery.
Most automatic battery chargers have a safety feature that will not allow the charger to begin a charge cycle without a minimum amount of voltage. The minimum mount will very from charger to charger. The best way to trigger a charge cycle would be using a known good battery and a set of jumper cables. Hook up the dead battery to the known good battery with the jumper cables, then hook up the charger to either one of the batteries. This will increase the total voltage enough to trigger a charging cycle. Charge the two batteries for an hour. Then you can stop charging and remove the jumper cables. Now the dead battery should have enough voltage for the charger to "sense" that it is connected to a battery. Attach the charger to the battery that was dead and finish the charge cycle.
SteveB BKNY: It will over-charge the battery. Get a battery maintainer if you want to keep a battery at full charge over a long period of dormancy. This video may help you out: ruclips.net/video/biwTpBFM-ns/видео.html
fwh79 i had an old Schumacher with manual mode only set to 2 amps for years as a trickle charger and it never gave me problems. Now it’s sitting in storage. I just want to use it to flash my ecu which takes about 30 minutes. Don’t want to risk bricking the ecm if the battery dies. You think I should set it to 2 or 6 amps while flashing the ecm?
fwh79 I think i have it figured out just not sure why they made the side that is chared say charge and the other side say start? Kinda odd but even odder was the fact that 4 guys at 2 different auto zones didnt know either? Not a goid day csr broke down 3 mi from the house litteraly had to cary the battery home in a lunch cooler lol This Everstart 2 10 50 must be made in China. Im subbed
When the needle sweeps over to the 0 amps section of the gauge, the battery is charged. The problem with the needle gauges comes to light when you are charging on a low amp setting. They become hard to read and that confuses people. I am not sure what brand/model charger you are using. However, it is generally hard to use these chargers with a needle amp display. If you are using an automatic charger, set it to the higher amp setting first. If it clicks on the "charged" light, turn of the charger and switch it to the lower amp setting. The start the charger again. Let it charge on the low amp setting until the charged light comes on. If you have a manual model, I would suggest that you find an automatic charger.
Thanks for the sub. Yeah, I'm not surprised that 4 guys at two different stores couldn't help you. I always laugh to my self when I see that sign in Autozones window that says "Free battery charging, most in less than an hour." Not an accurate advertisement. I know plenty of automotive techs that don't know how to charge a battery or read a battery charger for that matter! It can be confusing. Good luck, and I hope you fix your battery problem. If you have anymore questions, be sure to ask me. Thank you again.
Dano1947: Yeah, I hear ya. I have a buddy who bought a new 2007 F-150 V6 back in 2008. He has worked all over the country and is somewhere around 200,000 miles on that truck. He has followed the maintenance schedule in the owners manual like clock work and that truck just keeps on rolling. Pretty impressive for an American product but I think that shows how important regular maintenance is to keep a vehicle running properly for over 10 years.
The needle on the display will show that the charger is drawing amperage. You could also purchase an amp clamp to read the real-time amperage output. I will admit... these chargers are very hard to read and I only have one battery charger that has a digital display for real-time amperage output. Which makes it my go to charger.
I've completely discharged a walmart 12v motorcycle battery for a cb400f by forgetting to turn the key off over 10 times so far, most of those went overnight. they don't even show voltage in the morning, beyond warm, they're cold. i'll put a schumacher 2 10 50 on jump mode for only a few minutes, sometimes as few as 30 seconds, and it'll be up around 11 or lower 12's. if i don't use the jump amps the auto charge 1 amp will never get it over 5volts, the yuasa auto 1amp or whatever it is, will then top it off. trick is to buy another battery so you wont have any down time waiting for the charge. or making tape over the kill switch lever (like grandma does on light switches,) so you'll always hit the Key off. or tie a key lanyard to your wrist . i'll run a battery for over 10 yrs. they say it'd hard on the stattor.
@@fwh79FOXR6 yes, but leaving the key in the on position which leaves the headlight on. it's dim as they were from factory production. maybe a buzzer would help. age is linked i think to it happening more often.
@@fwh79FOXR6 of course i should do that, but coming in with a bag or groceries, pizza or beer, i'm usually focusing on those important steps, then i'll find out hrs later the key was on. i've been riding this cb400f ss 1976 since early 80s. paid $400 for it, it's a blast, 1 got a couple of them, red and yellow, their better than wives. i ride the one hard as if i was racing it. it's hard not to. just under 400lbs, narrow enough to ride through the front door. and it screams when it's feeling good. never been crashed. but it's a lot of fun. oh and it's got a kick starter that you push over by hand and it runs after 1 cylinder fires. it's got all the stock ignition point system that it came it. it's stater is weak. they all were. insurance is 75 bucks a year. registration is gettin high like 120 a year. it gets 45 to 60mpg running wide open or not. and will pull 6th if there's no wind nor any incline, no back packs and your tucked in as flat as possible, breakin over 100mph. acceleration is gnarly. i used to be able to give the best 600cc riders a run for their money in the tight canyons. not any more. what are you riding these days?
Buck Wheat: That's awesome my man. Gotta ride what makes you happy. I've never brought a pizza home on my bike before... you got me beat on that one! It is pretty amazing how long some of these bikes can last if they are maintained. I have my trusty old 2000 YZF R6. I would love to find a nice 2008 R1. Haven't gotten around to looking for one though. I think you'll be ok if you just start turning the bike off with the key. Just gotta make it your new habit. I did the exact same thing you did a few time. Left the key on over night and woke up to a dead battery. Like you said, if you don't have a back up battery... it's gonna be awhile before the battery is fully charged again!
After a lot of searching I can’t find any information about these two settings: Automatic Low Maintenance. Automatic Free Deep Cycle. What’s the difference and when do you select either one?
Richard Wharton: What kind of battery charger do you have? Do you have the model number? Also, what kind of battery are you charging? I'll give you my best guess for now- Automatic Low Maintenance would be used on most car batteries. Automatic Free Deep Cycle would be used on a deep cycle battery type usually found in boats or RVs.
I have the Schumacher SE-3005MA. For batteries I have a 12v Napa lawnmower, 12v Mega Tron 2 Interstate and a 12v deep cycle Interstate SRM-27. None of those batteries I use much at all apart from the mower one in season, to keep these batteries at their best life how often should I charge? Thanks
Richard Wharton: I would use the conventional automatic 2 amp on the lawnmower, the conventional automatic 12 amp on the Interstate battery, and the 2 or 10 amp automatic deep cycle setting for your SRM-27. If you charge the deep cycle at 10 amps I would charge it again on the 2 amp mode just to be sure it is topped of. If you are looking to maintain these batteries, I would highly recommend picking up a battery maintainer. You can swap it between all three batteries to keep them fully charged. I would use the maintainer for one week at a time on each battery. That should keep all of your batteries fully charged and healthy. Check out this video for more info: ruclips.net/video/biwTpBFM-ns/видео.html
So when and why do you want to charge on a 2 AMP setting as compared to the 10 AMP? My guess is that the 2 AMP takes longer, but gives the battery a more solid charge that will last longer. The 10 gives a faster charge, but will run out faster. Is that correct?...Anyone know?
You are partially correct. The 2 amp is designed for smaller batteries. Think motorcycle, atv, or snowmobile. The 10 amp is for larger batteries like cars and trucks. However, the 2 amp can be used for cars and trucks as well but , as you mentioned, it will take longer to charge. As for the 10 amp... it will give a faster charge but that charge will not "run out" any faster than a 2 amp charge.
UPDATE, the Schumacher I was looking to buy are out of production, I would not buy a Schumacher now any ways, because Schumacher would not call me back!) I'm wondering why the Schumacher SE8 Charger can not be found, ordered or bought in New England
@@fwh79FOXR6, yes, here are my reasons, (sorry I had to edit) 1) because the SE8 is not overly powerful. I want something between 6 and 10 amps, 10 at the vary most, yet I rather have only 6 amps. 2) it has two settings, 2 amps and 8 amps, 3) rather Schumacher makes it or not it has a big name backing it, 4) I do not want a charger that is full of electronics, NOTE that I like the manual switching on this 520MA. I found that the Se-8, the SE-1010, and this 520MA are not made any more. I have been looking on the Net for a non-electronic charger now for 6 days, I believe I wont find one.. I went 42 years with only 4 amps, and it worked great until it fell 8Ft off the shelf. the manufacturers are all making digital chargers now. and why not, they will not last as long as the old ones ! so the manufacturers make more money that way !!
Hey, I got one of these 12v chargers second hand: www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-10-2a-automatic-battery-charger-0111503p.html I plugged my 12V non-spillable battery and the needle stays at the green area 0.Is this normal? The charger seems to work because it's making a quiet buzzing noise. Thanks
I would try charging it at 2A and see what happens. I like to charge with the 10A and then switch to 2A to finish the charge. Depending on the battery... the 10A may have trouble bringing the battery to a full charge. If the 2A doesn't work, have the battery load tested. Most auto parts stores will load test a battery for free.
I'm having an issue that I cannot find any info or advice on. If anyone out there could help me I'd appreciate it immensely. I have a powerfist 2/10amp, 6/12 volt automatic charger . I hooked up my car battery to it, disconnected and outside my car, and in the 12 volt/10amp setting the needle keeps surging up and down every second or so. I really don't think that's normal. On the 12v/2amp setting however, it seems to act normally. I'm not sure what is supposed to sound like but it hums somewhat quietly and doesn't fluctuate on the voltage/amp gauge. From what I can tell, my cars battery should be compatible with the charger I'm using on the setting. It's a lead acid type 86A with 580cca and 95RC. THANKS
righteousfury1: They type of charger you have can be a real pain to use. It helps to have a voltmeter to double check if it is charging or not. I would suggest charging it on the 2 amp setting for an hour and then try to switch it to 10 amp and see what happens. Sometimes the charger has issues on the higher amp setting. However, you could also have a bad battery and that is why the charger is acting up. If you have trouble with it after charging on 2 amp for an hour, I would take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested. You might just have a bad battery.
@@fwh79FOXR6 thanks for the reply! I had it charging on the 2amp setting and it did show an increase in battery charge over the six hours I had it there there. Whenever I switch the setting to 10 amps it does the same thing I described earlier. I also have a bigger battery from a BMW I'm attempting to charge. The gauge reads it's fully charged with the needle hovering on 2amps but in the car it seems flat dead. I'm thinking it's completely sulfated or something even though it's a fairly new battery. I think the previous owner left it discharged for some time and it's just full of sulfate now I don't know.
righteousfury1: You're welcome. Keep in mind that some times a low amp setting like 2 amps could literally take over 24 hours to recharge a very discharged battery depending on its size. I would highly recommend getting both batteries load tested before you do anymore charging. Trying to charge a damaged battery can be very dangerous. I'm not a big fan of getting battery acid blasted on to me or anything I own! So please take the time to get both batteries load tested before you go any further. Also consider that you may have a bad battery charger. The problem with these chargers that have an old school sweep dial, is that they are very hard to read on a low amp setting. You might want to consider getting a newer charger with a digital display. If that BMW battery has been discharged for a long time... it is probably toast.
You could have a bad connection with the charge clamps. Or the charging amp you selected is just too high. I would try charging on the lowest amp setting your charger has. Also, sometimes the swing can indicate a physical problem with the battery. You would need to load test the battery if the swinging will not subside with a lower charging amp setting.
If you are having a problem triggering a charge cycle, use jumper cables to hook up the discharged battery to a charged battery. Make the connection as if you were going to jump start a car. That will increase the voltage and allow you to begin a charge cycle. I would charge the two batteries connected together for 10 minutes. Then you should be able to disconnect the good battery and place the charger onto the discharged battery to finish charging it. If you battery is down to 8 volts you may have a bad battery. I would recommend having it load tested. Many auto repair parts stores will load test a battery for free.
@@villarrealmarta6103 There is a very good chance that your battery is frozen. The battery contains a mixture of acid and water. As a battery is discharged, the mix becomes less acidic. This makes the battery easier to freeze in cold weather. I would highly recommend that you remove the battery from the vehicle and allow it to thaw in a warm room. Then try to charge it again. It may take 2 or more hours to thaw the battery. DO NOT charge the battery inside a house. The battery will release explosive gases as it recharges, so do not charge the battery indoors. Always charge a battery in a well ventilated area.
No no more keeping your eyes on your charger. It's damn near 20 20. These things are automatic now. Oh you got to keep your eye on your charger or you'll explode your battery. Fuck that old shit!
5:00 awful advice that I see repeated a lot "if the battery is dead and wont charge, just pump a shitton of amps into it for a little and then it should charge fine!" this is why they say all low voltage batteries suck and should be thrown away, they dont get damaged as much during discharge, the get damaged when you force 50 amps into them when they are sitting at only 10% charge. you need to very slowly coax dead batteries back with low amps, and a sort of push pull cycle (charge a little then discharge again) to get the battery chemistry saturated with ions again.
Luke Morrison: I'm not sure how much time you have spent in the real world lately but you would find very few people who are willing to play your low amp, push pull cycle game. People generally don't care about a car battery until their car won't start... then it has a tendency to command 100% of their attention. They don't care about "ion saturation"... they just want their car to start. Furthermore, 50 amps is not a "ton" of amps. Which is why you won't find a jumper pack with 50 amp output. The alternator in my car puts out 130 amps... is that a ton?
Fwh79: I've had 3 hyundais, one XL, one Accent and one Elantra. I won't buy another american car, they are over priced crap. I have driven the Sonata but I prefer the Elantra.
Dano1947: Well you can't overlook Asian quality. They are almost unstoppable if you take care of them. You should be able to get 15 years out of an Asian car with ease.
Thank you for your insight. You saved me $125.00.
You're welcome. If you ever need any advice, you know who to ask. Thanks for watching.
I have a 2 amp and 6 amp battery charger. I'm. Charging a Batery in a Toyata Celica which amp do I use?
you all prolly dont give a shit but does any of you know of a way to get back into an Instagram account??
I stupidly forgot the account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Graysen Santiago instablaster =)
@Corey Luka Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Agree with your assessment, I have used the Schumacher SE-520 to 'revitalize' several batteries where the maintainers simply did not sense a battery present. The manual mode simply is a 'charge no matter what', and must be closely monitored, or the battery may simply 'boil out' or swell to the point of no return. As you said, manual charge until the voltage is up enuf to use a maintainer. Good Job.
RBR Dave: Thank you. Seems like very few people know how to get an automatic charger to sense a discharged battery.
Making use of the ruclips.net/user/postUgkxcJ22tnHH9l1vjdIdEIG27iOG55P7LXI8 reconditioning plan, I just saved 2 auto batteries from being completely junked. The guides were very simple to follow. I wish I would have found this years ago! You may use the guide to recondition any battery type
This was a suggested video because I was recently looking for my video about this. You really did a good job and have a great grasp on how chargers work. I didn't really know that a automatic charger wouldn't start with an overly discharged battery. I really needed to know that a couple of times! LOL
I had a suspicion but at the time I didn't think there was anything I could do about it. Batteries in parallel, duh! :)
If you'd like to find it, one of my videos on the subject was, "How to see if a battery is bad with a charger". Stay connected. :)
Thank you. I'm glad that you enjoyed the video and learned something. Charging automotive batteries is a very confusing topic to say the least. Seems like most automotive techs lack a basic knowledge of battery charging. So it can be hard to find accurate information. I'll be sure to check out your video. Thanks for the sub!
Great Video!! Thank You for sharing your knowledge!!
Thank you. I hope the video helped you out.
I've had a charger just like this for about 2 decades. I've used the 55AMP start mode many, many times on old beaters that I had. It works GREAT to start a car with a battery that is dead. Leave it on for about 5 minutes, start the vehicle, then leave it on 10 amps for a while longer.
They do come in very handy sometimes! Thank you for sharing your story Danny.
What if the battery is not in the vehicle... can the 55 AMP start mode still be used on a deeply dead battery?
@@doloresdavidson-george5495 I would only use the start mode if the battery is deeply discharged and will not trigger a charging cycle (very common problem with automatic style battery chargers). Do not try to charge a battery with the start mode. Either use it to start a dead battery in a car or use it to "jump start" a charging cycle with the battery charger, inside or out of the vehicle.
Sharing the information and it work.
Skipped part 1 and went straight to part 2. Cause I live recklessly and don't give a FOOK
Sharing information and thank you for teaching.
Anita Loyd: You're welcome.
Yes. I agree about battery start modes. Bigger boxes have maybe 110 amps vs the 55 amps here. Trouble is...if an electrical system isn't healthy you can start a fire. I carefully and rarely use such settings.
DE Nichols: It is much safer to just charge the battery. However, when you are short for time, jumping or using the engine boost is really the only option available. I try to avoid using engine start as much as I can.
Very nice job well done, Thanks.
You're welcome
Good stuff
Great video! It confirmed my suspicion about the battery charger I have (Schumacher SC1308) not detecting a high enough voltage on my lawn mower battery, When attempting to charge the battery, the charger turns on and then immediately off. Thanks!
Adam Heitzman: You're welcome. Glad I could help.
Great tip with that start engine switch for dead batteries.
diastoleny: Thank you.
there are a lot of smart chargers that can detect a discharged, sulfated, faulty, or healthy full charged battery and apply the correct power supply to it neccessary to revive or just maintain it
Good job.
Thank you.
thanks, still using this, i needed the part about manual charging onthe schmacher to revive a deeply dicscharged battery, to get it going before i switch to automatic. it was sitting there doing nothing.
Thank you so much for your time & expertise. I watched all 3 of your charger related workshops. My situation is a bit different. I would like to purchase a good quality manual charger to use in removing rust. I have seen numerous videos and can't wait till spring to start restoring a vintage table saw I had given to me. Do you have any thoughts regarding that since the manuals are becoming somewhat of a dinosaur? I guess a combo of a manual/auto would be fine too. Schumacher seems to be the deal. Thank you again, Jim
+James Wiskus Your welcome James. Thank you for watching. Your best bet is to look at wheeled chargers. I'm not sure how much amperage output you are looking for but Schumacher and Forney are a good way to go. Here is a link to a couple of Forney models that may interest you. ruclips.net/video/9m7Iw5PE4aU/видео.html
Thanks so much, I actually have this narrowed down to 2 different Schumacher chargers. One is SE-82-6, 12V 6A. The other is discontinued but a friend has 6 of them 1050-PE in his shop brand new for 50.00 each. It's supposed to be a 10A. My question is will 4A make that much difference? I wouldn't think so other than one will clean a bit quicker. Just wondering your thoughts since the 1050-PE is discontinued and the SE-82-6 is still available. Just thinking about parts availability. Here is a link to the two chargers,
www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SE-82-6-Dual-Rate-Battery-Charger/dp/B0009IBJBM
www.amazon.com/Schumacher-1050-PE-Signature-Starter-Emergency/dp/B00002N6TW
+James Wiskus I don't have any experience with using a battery charger to remove rust. However, I think you should buy the least expensive one because I doubt there will be much difference between the 10 and the 6 amp output.
Highest charge rate on most car batteries will not harm them.
In about 1 hour your car can be started and on the way. 80-90% charged.
Lower charge rate gives a better overall better charge. 12-24 hour.
Could leave the charger on board and always connected to the battery but not plugged in?
quick question,i just bough 2 T105RE 6 volt trojan golf cart batteries, hooked up in series for 12 volt system ,,,,first time i hooked them up to a 1.5 charger /maintainer they reached 13.6 before charge light turned green,,,,,,,a week later i hooked it up again but they reached 14.6 and still no green light,, i disconnected charger in fear of over charge,,,,,,,,,should i have allowed the charging process to continue to green light appeared ?........were the batteries attempting to equalize ?
+bob woerner Sounds like they were not done taking a charge yet. What is the amp hour rating of the batteries you bought? I looked up the specs on the T105RE and it looks like there are four different amp hour ratings available. All of them are very high. I would suggest that you use a battery charger with a higher amperage output to charge them because the 1.5 amp charger/maintainer is not going to be enough power to charge them in a timely manner. I would try using a 10 amp charger and see what happens. The other thing you can try is to disconnect the ground cable from the vehicle. Some times I run into batteries that won't take a proper charge because there is something in the vehicle drawing power. Disconnecting the ground wire will isolate the battery and allow it to charge properly. This usually only happens when there is an after market stereo amp that has been wired hot to the battery but it's worth a shot to try it. I also had a diesel truck in the shop one time that would not take a charge. When I disconnected the batteries from each other (they are wired in parallel) one battery took a charge and the other one didn't. In that case the bad battery was placing a parasitic draw on the good battery, preventing a proper charge. That may be another problem for you as well... if one battery has gone bad... it will draw the good battery down. I know your batteries are new... but that doesn't mean that one of them is not damaged or bad. It's worth looking into. So I would suggest the following...1. Try to charge them with a higher amp charger. (I am very confident that this will fix your problem)2. Try disconnecting the ground wire and charge them. Do not disconnect the wire that is creating the series connection, just the ground wire that connects the battery to the vehicle.3. Remove them, separate them, and load test them both to confirm they are both healthy. Be sure to use a 6 volt scale to test them.I hope this helps.
im guessing you live some where thats warm even in the winter. the 55 amp start option is for those unexpected fronts rolling in throught the night and even though you plugged the block heater in the battery just doesnt have enough ooomph to it to start the car
I live close to Chicago, so it can be brutally cold here some times. I did not purchase the charger for the 55 amp engine start mode. It just happened to have it. 55 amp is actually kinda weak any ways. But some times it can help you out if your battery isn't discharged too much. Every vehicle I own is kept on a battery maintainer, so I never need the start mode any ways. If you would like to learn more about how beneficial a battery maintainer can be, check out this video: ruclips.net/video/biwTpBFM-ns/видео.html
thank you sir
Bernard Chu: You're welcome
COOL tips to know
xian zing Thank you.
My red and black ends came off u know what side they go back on there's letters on one side the cord and not on the other so is that the black one and red on the other side!??
What brand or type charger would you recommend for a 12v deep marine battery? Thanks
amzn.to/2JqWwS5
Thanks man I appreciate it very much knowledg is wisdom
You're welcome.
Can you use the engine start mode to jump start your car like you would with jumper cables to another vehicle?
James Lydon: Yes, you can. That is what it is designed for. However, be sure to read the instructions for using the engine start mode. You want to charge the battery on the highest amp setting for as long as you can before using the engine start mode.
Battery charging at 2 or 10 amp; aren't they on a different tap from the transformer? So perhaps when the charger fails you could still use the start side to get your battery going.
I think you are right about the transformer. However, depending on the state of charge, the battery may need to be charged prior to using the engine start. So it really depends on the situation at hand.
Fwh79: I had an accent for 14 yrs and now an elantra. Both had old batteries,.but they were replaced.
Dano1947: How do you like the Elantra? I seems like Hyundai makes some quality products now. They have come a VERY long way since the 1990's. I have never owned one but I have been in plenty of them at the shops I have worked at. They seem like a good choice. I personally think the Sonata is a really sharp looking car.
Isn't it surprising that so far no one has thought to come up with a programmable charger where e digitally set parameters and charger act accordingly?
I think the reply to your comment is a yes and a no. Yes, that is an awesome idea... but no, it doesn't surprise me that no one has made a charger like that because battery charging is such a misunderstood topic that very few people have an interest in. . . until their vehicle won't start! Everyone who owns a car should own a battery charger. Few people seem to understand that.
FWH79: the only problem with regular maintenance is the high cost of after market and the maintenance costs. That is not what the mechanic makes, just the company and it's a rip off.
I'm more concerned with explosive gasses mainly in the Summer. Don't want a face full of acid.
When I connected it to a dead battery, it was at 67% After all night it still says 67% Does this mean the battery is bad?
Not necessarily... is the battery hooked up to a vehicle? Most new battery chargers have safety features that make charging a dead or deeply discharged battery difficult.
Please let me know whether 48 v 200 ah automatic battery charger available and price for the same ?
Schumacher INC-4825A '25 Amp' 48V Digital Charger Found it on amazon for $241.00. Looks like it does lead acid. Not sure if you could use it for an AGM battery.
that reminds me of a diehard 200.71222 u should look it up
Indeed. I couldn't find a good picture to see all of the features of the DieHard model. However, it seems to be very similar to the Century model in this video. Not a bad battery charger but to me, these days, it's a smart charger or nothing. Smart battery chargers offer numerous advantages that can not be over looked.
I have an older Schumacher. Not seeing 10 or 2 amp switch, but is maintenance free setting a 2 amp?. Mine has 6 or 12 v switch and conventional &low maintenance vs deep cycle, maintenance free switch
I wanna charge a motorcycle battery
Tim Kapeller: Use the 2 amp setting on a motorcycle battery.
What does it mean if the charger needle jumping back and forth?
CaliCal68: Could be a few things... You might have a connection problem with the charger. Remove the charger leads and then reconnect them. If you are charging on a higher amp setting, switch to the lowest amp setting. Sometimes when you charge on a high amp setting in the "automatic" mode, the charger will trigger on and off when it is close to a full charge. Usually setting the charger to the lowest amp setting helps it finish a charge without bouncing the needle. Finally, a bouncing needle can indicate a bad battery. If you suspect a bad battery, take it to an automotive parts store and have it load tested.
Question ❓ what does it mean when the indicator swings from 0 to high amperage?
You could have a poor connection to the battery. Remove the clamps and reclip them onto the battery.
so how do you know when your battery is charged ? the guage indicates a charge when needle is up or down. Just the basic info needed.
The needle on the gauge reads the real-time amperage draw. The amperage is how much power the battery is pulling from the charger. So when the needle sweeps to the zero part of the gauge, it is charged up. For example, if the battery is very discharged and you set the charger to the 10 amp setting, the gauge will sweep up to 10 amps and slowly fall down to zero as the battery takes a charge. If the battery is only partially discharged the needle may only jump up to 5 amps and then slowly fall down as the battery takes a charge.
@@fwh79FOXR6 Thanks that explains the gage basics clearly
@@VERTAIR7 You're welcome
I stop charging when my engine starts and that's about 6 seconds.
"Slow (charging) and low (ampere)" is still the most safest and effective.
MB Legend: Usually charge on the lowest setting that time permits. Most people are always in a rush and don't have time for a low Amp charge setting. Or, use a battery maintainer and always have a fully charged battery.
@@fwh79FOXR6 that's true. The reason why I opt for the "slow and low" is to protect the modern day electronics. I have a smart automatic car charger and I do some charging every once in awhile.
@@mblegend3056 Very smart. Slow is the way to go with charging batteries.
Can I run this with my 400w dc to ac inverter
You can use either of these battery chargers to recharge a battery after you have drained it using an inverter.
I have an Autocraft 2/12/75 amp charger and I am not getting anything through to the hookup clamps. You can even touch them together and there is no spark. What do you think the problem is? It is only less than 2 years old and used less than 6 times. Thanks
sherry davis: You are probably having trouble triggering a charge cycle because the battery you are trying to charge is too discharged. I tried to find the charger you have and it looks like your Autocraft charger is fully automatic. This is a common problem with fully automatic chargers. If the battery you are trying to charge has a voltage that is too low for the charger to "sense" the charger will not trigger a charge cycle. It is a safety feature, but all it seems to accomplish is make people angry because their charger won't charge a battery. So what you need to to do, is increase the voltage of the battery to trigger the charger. There are a few different ways to do this. You can use the 75 amp start mode. However, that can be dangerous if the battery is in poor condition. So, I would avoid doing that. I would suggest that you get a set of jumper cables and hook up the battery you are trying to charge to a known good battery. When you hook up the jumper cables the good battery is going to send voltage to the discharged battery. This will allow the charger to "sense" that a battery is connected to the charger and fire a charging cycle. So hook up the battery you want to charge, to a battery that you know is charged with jumper cables and let it sit for 10 minutes. Then, disconnect the jumper cables from the good battery and hook up the charger. During the 10 minutes the discharged battery should absorb enough voltage to be able to trigger the automatic charger when you hook it up to the battery charger again. Try that out and let me know how it goes for you.
Check your fuse,see manual.
I have the fuse out but I can't find one. ??? I can't find my manual
Look for a circuit breaker somewhere. Some chargers won't 'start' until it senses a battery or 'load' present. Most chargers have an internal circuit breaker that will eventually reset, but some older models have a manual reset button somewhere. be careful..
I looked through the comments and didn't find an answer to my problem... do you know what it means when I hook up my Sears fully automatic charger to my car battery (@2amps, Low-Maintenance Battery mode) and the needle continuously jumps between full charge and about 75% charged? The needle cycles every few seconds. Thx for your videos.
You are welcome. Thank you for asking for help. Do you have a model number for the charger you are using? Are you charging a car battery? Is it in the car hooked up or outside of the car? Is the battery out in cold, possibly freezing weather? What amperage setting(s) does the charger have? Depending on the state of charge of the battery, the charger many be having problems triggering a proper charge cycle. Deeply discharged batteries can actually freeze, which will cause charging problems. Also, a deeply discharged battery will some times not have enough voltage to trigger the automatic charger (this is a built in safety feature). You could also have a bad battery (shorted plates inside the battery) that will some times cause the needle to sweep the way you are describing. Please tell me what you are charging and why you are charging (car won't start?) and it will help me better answer your question.
Thx for the reply... It's a Sears DieHard, Model 28-71222 Fully Automatic 12-volt battery charger.
It has 3 amp settings: 50-amp Engine Start (which I don't like to use), 10-amp Fast Charge, and 2-amp Slow Charge. I have it set to Slow Charge.
There are two battery type settings: Conventional Low Maintenance and Maintenance Free Deep Cycle. I'm using the Conventional setting.
The battery is in the car, a 2000 VW Golf TDI (diesel). It was -15°F overnight and I knew I'd have problems starting this morning so when I went out I immediately put the charger on to give it a boost. That's when I noticed the needle swinging back and forth between "Charged" and about 75%.
Actually, about a half hour after I posted my question, the needle stopped swinging and showed a full charge. I disconnected it and tried starting but quickly used up whatever actual charge was in the battery. I'm about to go out and try again. The thing is that I had the car in the shop last week for a "check engine llight" diagnosis (it was the glowplugs) and they told me after a routine check that my battery was in good condition.
Well, maybe the "swinging needle" is just something to ignore and I should just let the battery charge. If I have any other problems I'll let you know.
Thanks again for the quick reply. 👍
Thank you for the detailed reply. Makes helping you much easier! It sounds like you are doing everything correctly with the charger. One thing to keep in mind is the temperature. As a battery discharges, the water/acid in the battery becomes less acidic and more like water. This greatly increases the chances of the battery freezing. A cold battery is resistant to charging and trying to charge a frozen battery is down right dangerous. You may want to remove the battery from the vehicle and allow it to warm up inside. Then charge the battery in a well ventilated area after it reaches room temperature. The other issue is the fact that you are starting a diesel engine. Diesel engines usually have a much higher compression ratio than petrol engines, which greatly increases the power requirements for starting. This puts a much greater demand on the battery and is the reason why most diesel trucks have two batteries. The dual batteries provide more amperage for starting in cold/freezing weather. Maybe you should get a second opinion on the condition of the battery. If it is more than 2 or 3 years old, it could need replacing. I would highly recommend an AGM battery if you end up needing a new battery. They are expensive, but worth the money. Almost a requirement for diesel applications in my opinion. I would also recommend using a battery maintainer. Especially when temps get below 40 degrees F. Schumacher makes a nice on board maintainer that plugs into an extension cord. Another alternative would be to buy a jump box. You can use the jump box for those cold morning starts (dual battery). Be sure to keep the jump box charged up and you should be good. Plus you can keep the box in the car as a plan B if your car will not start away from home. You could even charge the jump box over night every time you come home so it is ready to go in the morning. Hope this information helps you out and thanks for watching.
Great info! I will start by looking around for an AGM battery. A jump box would also be a good thing to have. 👍 Btw, my second try at starting my Golf was successful. It had warmed up to +10 by that time and the charger had been on it for about 3 hours. Have a good year. :)
That's great news! Glad to hear you got her started up. Thank you and a good year to you too!
Just subscribe your channel. Have a question ? Would this one charge dead battery or gott have few volts on the battery in order to start charging 🤔. Another word does the terminal have live voltage ⚡ running if the touch each other they sparks. I bought the same company one but it's not live if the battery has like 2-3 voltage then it's it starts charging otherwise it doesn't even read the battery.
Most automatic battery chargers have a safety feature that will not allow the charger to begin a charge cycle without a minimum amount of voltage. The minimum mount will very from charger to charger. The best way to trigger a charge cycle would be using a known good battery and a set of jumper cables. Hook up the dead battery to the known good battery with the jumper cables, then hook up the charger to either one of the batteries. This will increase the total voltage enough to trigger a charging cycle. Charge the two batteries for an hour. Then you can stop charging and remove the jumper cables. Now the dead battery should have enough voltage for the charger to "sense" that it is connected to a battery. Attach the charger to the battery that was dead and finish the charge cycle.
I tricked mine just now by Disconnecting the negative and reconnecting it quickly.
G Baby: Nice! What ever it takes to get that charge cycle fired.
What happens if you leave it in manual mode on 2 amps for a couple months at a time?
SteveB BKNY: It will over-charge the battery. Get a battery maintainer if you want to keep a battery at full charge over a long period of dormancy.
This video may help you out: ruclips.net/video/biwTpBFM-ns/видео.html
fwh79 i had an old Schumacher with manual mode only set to 2 amps for years as a trickle charger and it never gave me problems. Now it’s sitting in storage. I just want to use it to flash my ecu which takes about 30 minutes. Don’t want to risk bricking the ecm if the battery dies. You think I should set it to 2 or 6 amps while flashing the ecm?
I just want to know which side of the meter is charged why does nobody mention that 1 side says 100 % and the other says start what is the deal?
If I explain it to you are you going to sub my channel and share my video?
fwh79 I think i have it figured out just not sure why they made the side that is chared say charge and the other side say start? Kinda odd but even odder was the fact that 4 guys at 2 different auto zones didnt know either? Not a goid day csr broke down 3 mi from the house litteraly had to cary the battery home in a lunch cooler lol This Everstart 2 10 50 must be made in China. Im subbed
When the needle sweeps over to the 0 amps section of the gauge, the battery is charged. The problem with the needle gauges comes to light when you are charging on a low amp setting. They become hard to read and that confuses people. I am not sure what brand/model charger you are using. However, it is generally hard to use these chargers with a needle amp display. If you are using an automatic charger, set it to the higher amp setting first. If it clicks on the "charged" light, turn of the charger and switch it to the lower amp setting. The start the charger again. Let it charge on the low amp setting until the charged light comes on. If you have a manual model, I would suggest that you find an automatic charger.
Thanks for the sub. Yeah, I'm not surprised that 4 guys at two different stores couldn't help you. I always laugh to my self when I see that sign in Autozones window that says "Free battery charging, most in less than an hour." Not an accurate advertisement. I know plenty of automotive techs that don't know how to charge a battery or read a battery charger for that matter! It can be confusing. Good luck, and I hope you fix your battery problem. If you have anymore questions, be sure to ask me. Thank you again.
fwh79 Thanks man i appreciate that.
Fwh79: well I did come close with the Accent, at 14.
Dano1947: You got your money's worth out of that one. Do you do your own car maintenance?
Fwh79: on the old cars but these newer ones, no. Too complex. Maybe oil and plugs but the rest not at all.
Dano1947: Yeah, I hear ya. I have a buddy who bought a new 2007 F-150 V6 back in 2008. He has worked all over the country and is somewhere around 200,000 miles on that truck. He has followed the maintenance schedule in the owners manual like clock work and that truck just keeps on rolling. Pretty impressive for an American product but I think that shows how important regular maintenance is to keep a vehicle running properly for over 10 years.
When i set it up .the alarm start so i went and put the key en just move the key and it stop.
Philip Ponce sane here but put the key in and everything and it still goes off
My charger says 1.5 amp yet the scale says it pulling 6 amps ??
how do you know the charger is working?
The needle on the display will show that the charger is drawing amperage. You could also purchase an amp clamp to read the real-time amperage output. I will admit... these chargers are very hard to read and I only have one battery charger that has a digital display for real-time amperage output. Which makes it my go to charger.
I've completely discharged a walmart 12v motorcycle battery for a cb400f by forgetting to turn the key off over 10 times so far, most of those went overnight. they don't even show voltage in the morning, beyond warm, they're cold. i'll put a schumacher 2 10 50 on jump mode for only a few minutes, sometimes as few as 30 seconds, and it'll be up around 11 or lower 12's. if i don't use the jump amps the auto charge 1 amp will never get it over 5volts, the yuasa auto 1amp or whatever it is, will then top it off. trick is to buy another battery so you wont have any down time waiting for the charge. or making tape over the kill switch lever (like grandma does on light switches,) so you'll always hit the Key off. or tie a key lanyard to your wrist . i'll run a battery for over 10 yrs. they say it'd hard on the stattor.
Buck Wheat: Do you turn your bike off with the kill switch?
@@fwh79FOXR6 yes, but leaving the key in the on position which leaves the headlight on. it's dim as they were from factory production. maybe a buzzer would help. age is linked i think to it happening more often.
Buck Wheat: You should just turn the bike off with the key then. What kind of bike do you have?
@@fwh79FOXR6 of course i should do that, but coming in with a bag or groceries, pizza or beer, i'm usually focusing on those important steps, then i'll find out hrs later the key was on. i've been riding this cb400f ss 1976 since early 80s. paid $400 for it, it's a blast, 1 got a couple of them, red and yellow, their better than wives. i ride the one hard as if i was racing it. it's hard not to. just under 400lbs, narrow enough to ride through the front door. and it screams when it's feeling good. never been crashed. but it's a lot of fun. oh and it's got a kick starter that you push over by hand and it runs after 1 cylinder fires. it's got all the stock ignition point system that it came it. it's stater is weak. they all were. insurance is 75 bucks a year. registration is gettin high like 120 a year. it gets 45 to 60mpg running wide open or not. and will pull 6th if there's no wind nor any incline, no back packs and your tucked in as flat as possible, breakin over 100mph. acceleration is gnarly. i used to be able to give the best 600cc riders a run for their money in the tight canyons. not any more. what are you riding these days?
Buck Wheat: That's awesome my man. Gotta ride what makes you happy. I've never brought a pizza home on my bike before... you got me beat on that one! It is pretty amazing how long some of these bikes can last if they are maintained. I have my trusty old 2000 YZF R6. I would love to find a nice 2008 R1. Haven't gotten around to looking for one though. I think you'll be ok if you just start turning the bike off with the key. Just gotta make it your new habit. I did the exact same thing you did a few time. Left the key on over night and woke up to a dead battery. Like you said, if you don't have a back up battery... it's gonna be awhile before the battery is fully charged again!
After a lot of searching I can’t find any information about these two settings: Automatic Low Maintenance. Automatic Free Deep Cycle. What’s the difference and when do you select either one?
Richard Wharton: What kind of battery charger do you have? Do you have the model number? Also, what kind of battery are you charging? I'll give you my best guess for now- Automatic Low Maintenance would be used on most car batteries. Automatic Free Deep Cycle would be used on a deep cycle battery type usually found in boats or RVs.
I have the Schumacher SE-3005MA. For batteries I have a 12v Napa lawnmower, 12v Mega Tron 2 Interstate and a 12v deep cycle Interstate SRM-27. None of those batteries I use much at all apart from the mower one in season, to keep these batteries at their best life how often should I charge? Thanks
Richard Wharton: I would use the conventional automatic 2 amp on the lawnmower, the conventional automatic 12 amp on the Interstate battery, and the 2 or 10 amp automatic deep cycle setting for your SRM-27. If you charge the deep cycle at 10 amps I would charge it again on the 2 amp mode just to be sure it is topped of. If you are looking to maintain these batteries, I would highly recommend picking up a battery maintainer. You can swap it between all three batteries to keep them fully charged. I would use the maintainer for one week at a time on each battery. That should keep all of your batteries fully charged and healthy. Check out this video for more info: ruclips.net/video/biwTpBFM-ns/видео.html
Great info!!
Jude Rocket: Thank you
So when and why do you want to charge on a 2 AMP setting as compared to the 10 AMP? My guess is that the 2 AMP takes longer, but gives the battery a more solid charge that will last longer. The 10 gives a faster charge, but will run out faster. Is that correct?...Anyone know?
You are partially correct. The 2 amp is designed for smaller batteries. Think motorcycle, atv, or snowmobile. The 10 amp is for larger batteries like cars and trucks. However, the 2 amp can be used for cars and trucks as well but , as you mentioned, it will take longer to charge. As for the 10 amp... it will give a faster charge but that charge will not "run out" any faster than a 2 amp charge.
***** Thank you for your input. That makes sense.
You're welcome. Thank you for watching.
Codii-Reddd
Over charging can be disastrous.
Dano1947: Indeed, boiling out a battery is never a good time.
UPDATE, the Schumacher I was looking to buy are out of production, I would not buy a Schumacher now any ways, because Schumacher would not call me back!)
I'm wondering why the Schumacher SE8 Charger can not be found, ordered or bought in New England
sideswiped: Is there a particular reason why you want an SE8?
@@fwh79FOXR6, yes, here are my reasons, (sorry I had to edit)
1) because the SE8 is not overly powerful. I want something between 6 and 10 amps, 10 at the vary most, yet I rather have only 6 amps.
2) it has two settings, 2 amps and 8 amps,
3) rather Schumacher makes it or not it has a big name backing it,
4) I do not want a charger that is full of electronics,
NOTE that I like the manual switching on this 520MA.
I found that the Se-8, the SE-1010, and this 520MA are not made any more. I have been looking on the Net for a non-electronic charger now for 6 days, I believe I wont find one.. I went 42 years with only 4 amps, and it worked great until it fell 8Ft off the shelf. the manufacturers are all making digital chargers now. and why not, they will not last as long as the old ones ! so the manufacturers make more money that way !!
I think your best bet would be to pick up a Century charger. The K3152-1 is 10 & 2 amp.
@@fwh79FOXR6 LOL those Century chargers are also out of production, I bought a $130 Solar for $79 at Napa. 2, 6, 10, 55, it's the Cat's tail it is
@@sideswiped6874 How is that Solar charger working out for you? They do look pretty damn cool. I have yet to purchased one.
Hey, I got one of these 12v chargers second hand: www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-10-2a-automatic-battery-charger-0111503p.html I plugged my 12V non-spillable battery and the needle stays at the green area 0.Is this normal? The charger seems to work because it's making a quiet buzzing noise. Thanks
Is it set to 10A or 2A?
I set it to 10A. I also checked the voltage on my 12V-7A SLA battery and it showed 6V. Maybe it's dead for good.
I would try charging it at 2A and see what happens. I like to charge with the 10A and then switch to 2A to finish the charge. Depending on the battery... the 10A may have trouble bringing the battery to a full charge. If the 2A doesn't work, have the battery load tested. Most auto parts stores will load test a battery for free.
ok thanks
You're welcome. Good luck.
I'm having an issue that I cannot find any info or advice on. If anyone out there could help me I'd appreciate it immensely.
I have a powerfist 2/10amp, 6/12 volt automatic charger .
I hooked up my car battery to it, disconnected and outside my car, and in the 12 volt/10amp setting the needle keeps surging up and down every second or so.
I really don't think that's normal.
On the 12v/2amp setting however, it seems to act normally. I'm not sure what is supposed to sound like but it hums somewhat quietly and doesn't fluctuate on the voltage/amp gauge.
From what I can tell, my cars battery should be compatible with the charger I'm using on the setting. It's a lead acid type 86A with 580cca and 95RC.
THANKS
righteousfury1: They type of charger you have can be a real pain to use. It helps to have a voltmeter to double check if it is charging or not. I would suggest charging it on the 2 amp setting for an hour and then try to switch it to 10 amp and see what happens. Sometimes the charger has issues on the higher amp setting. However, you could also have a bad battery and that is why the charger is acting up. If you have trouble with it after charging on 2 amp for an hour, I would take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested. You might just have a bad battery.
@@fwh79FOXR6 thanks for the reply! I had it charging on the 2amp setting and it did show an increase in battery charge over the six hours I had it there there. Whenever I switch the setting to 10 amps it does the same thing I described earlier.
I also have a bigger battery from a BMW I'm attempting to charge.
The gauge reads it's fully charged with the needle hovering on 2amps but in the car it seems flat dead.
I'm thinking it's completely sulfated or something even though it's a fairly new battery. I think the previous owner left it discharged for some time and it's just full of sulfate now I don't know.
righteousfury1: You're welcome. Keep in mind that some times a low amp setting like 2 amps could literally take over 24 hours to recharge a very discharged battery depending on its size. I would highly recommend getting both batteries load tested before you do anymore charging. Trying to charge a damaged battery can be very dangerous. I'm not a big fan of getting battery acid blasted on to me or anything I own! So please take the time to get both batteries load tested before you go any further. Also consider that you may have a bad battery charger. The problem with these chargers that have an old school sweep dial, is that they are very hard to read on a low amp setting. You might want to consider getting a newer charger with a digital display. If that BMW battery has been discharged for a long time... it is probably toast.
Question ❓ What does it mean if the indicator needle jumps from 0 to 7 amps and back a forth?
You could have a bad connection with the charge clamps. Or the charging amp you selected is just too high. I would try charging on the lowest amp setting your charger has. Also, sometimes the swing can indicate a physical problem with the battery. You would need to load test the battery if the swinging will not subside with a lower charging amp setting.
I've only needed to jump start my car 3 times..
Dano1947: What kind of car do you have?
i have one, it only have 8 volts ... heeelp please
What do you have? I'm not sure what you need help with.
I HAVE THE BATTERY CHARGER SE-5212A...
If you are having a problem triggering a charge cycle, use jumper cables to hook up the discharged battery to a charged battery. Make the connection as if you were going to jump start a car. That will increase the voltage and allow you to begin a charge cycle. I would charge the two batteries connected together for 10 minutes. Then you should be able to disconnect the good battery and place the charger onto the discharged battery to finish charging it. If you battery is down to 8 volts you may have a bad battery. I would recommend having it load tested. Many auto repair parts stores will load test a battery for free.
@@fwh79FOXR6
Do I have to have the battery hooked up to the car for the auto shop to test it? Or can I just bring the battery in by itself?
You can bring the battery in by itself to be tested.
i have the same type of battery charger , just different brand name. harbor freight or something same features and power cost about 50 dollars
I put my vehicle on a charger and it didn’t help.
The Martas: Is the vehicle out in cold weather?
fwh79 yes it’s -50 with windchill
@@villarrealmarta6103 There is a very good chance that your battery is frozen. The battery contains a mixture of acid and water. As a battery is discharged, the mix becomes less acidic. This makes the battery easier to freeze in cold weather. I would highly recommend that you remove the battery from the vehicle and allow it to thaw in a warm room. Then try to charge it again. It may take 2 or more hours to thaw the battery. DO NOT charge the battery inside a house. The battery will release explosive gases as it recharges, so do not charge the battery indoors. Always charge a battery in a well ventilated area.
fwh79 thanks for your input. I appreciate it a lot. Also thanks for responding so quickly. Take care!
@@villarrealmarta6103 You're very welcome. Good luck. If you have any more questions, be sure to ask me.
No no more keeping your eyes on your charger. It's damn near 20 20. These things are automatic now. Oh you got to keep your eye on your charger or you'll explode your battery. Fuck that old shit!
5:00 awful advice that I see repeated a lot "if the battery is dead and wont charge, just pump a shitton of amps into it for a little and then it should charge fine!" this is why they say all low voltage batteries suck and should be thrown away, they dont get damaged as much during discharge, the get damaged when you force 50 amps into them when they are sitting at only 10% charge.
you need to very slowly coax dead batteries back with low amps, and a sort of push pull cycle (charge a little then discharge again) to get the battery chemistry saturated with ions again.
Luke Morrison: I'm not sure how much time you have spent in the real world lately but you would find very few people who are willing to play your low amp, push pull cycle game. People generally don't care about a car battery until their car won't start... then it has a tendency to command 100% of their attention. They don't care about "ion saturation"... they just want their car to start. Furthermore, 50 amps is not a "ton" of amps. Which is why you won't find a jumper pack with 50 amp output. The alternator in my car puts out 130 amps... is that a ton?
Fwh79: I've had 3 hyundais, one XL, one Accent and one Elantra. I won't buy another american car, they are over priced crap. I have driven the Sonata but I prefer the Elantra.
Dano1947: Well you can't overlook Asian quality. They are almost unstoppable if you take care of them. You should be able to get 15 years out of an Asian car with ease.
chargers are for wimps, save your old electronic chargers they do the same thing just a lttle more work to hook up.
out of focus most of the time
Not a good idea