Very good video! Direct and to the point; no ad lib. Many who make videos of this type talk continuously about everything but the subject matter! Thank you for an excellent video!
On my sonoma for the drivers side i removed the steering shaft and the fender liner(optional but better space) wasnt hard at all just took me an afternoon because it was my first time. (If u have no clearance for the bottom bolt on the engine u can lift it up more about and inch or two carefully and i was able to use my ratchet)
Do Not listen to a damn thing on this video! I repeat do not. Step 1 Losen lug nuts Step 2 Jack up and place jack stands under frame if you don't have a lift. Step 3 Remove wheels. Step 4 Place jack under engine oil pan with a block of wood between jack and oil pan and raise jack just until it makes contact. Step 5 Remove long bolt from both sides of engine mounts, You will need a 5/8's and an 11/16 wrench or sockets. Step 6 Jack up engine as far as you can. Step 7 Remove bottom frame mount. 3, 13mm bolts hold this to the frame. Very important step!!! Step 8 Remove Upper engine mount. 3 15mm bolts 2 on top one on bottom. Step 9 Install new engine mount to engine and tighten or torque to specs. Step 10 Re-install lower frame mounts to frame. Step 11 Lower engine and install long bolt from step 5. Step 12 Put the damn wheels back on get it off the jack stands and drive it. You don't need to run out and buy any special tools and I don't know why there are not any video's on RUclips on how to easily install these damn motor mounts.
Gid i wish it was this easy lol. Thanks for the refresher, i now renember every cut, brake kleen in eye, and frustration screams at that stupid lower bolt
So I got the old one out and I have no space at all to put the new mount in what do I do bc I can’t put it through the wheel well because my exhaust manifold is to close
The GM service manual instructs using cast bosses on the aft end of the engine block to support the engine. They explicitly say not to push the engine up using the oil pan so to avoid distorting it and reducing clearance between it and the oil pickup. I would guess that what was done in the video has worked well for very many. Just be sure to distribute the load with a large piece of wood.
Thanks for showing simple crap such us removing the tire and disconnecting the battery, then only showing the easy side and not the more difficult drivers side. I just wasted 6:31 minutes, hoping to see something that would help me get the drivers side.
Please advise where did you place the jack to jack up one side of the engine? Do you have to remove the thru bolt on the driver side motor mount to Jackie up engine? Please advise!
To get out the passenger side long bolt took a lot of effort with only a box-end wrench and a ratchet wrench. The upper two bolts to the block are hard to get out. I had to use a swivel joint at the socket and then extensions.
Do you have any information on how to install the mounts on an '01 S10 4.3 Before I drop the engine in the last 10 inches or so? I can't find an exploded parts diagram to see if the top of the mount should be attached first (and How?) before dropping it over the bottom and inserting the bolts??
You can look at the excessive movement of the engine when you start the engine or advance the throttle or you can examine each mount and observe the cracked rubber/plastic material that allows the mount to properly absorb engine vibration. The cracked material is the most accurate method to use.
OK TRQ Mechanic, clearly you’re making this look way too easy. you really need to help explain a little bit more to us guys that don’t do the stuff for a living I mean I had a feeling that there was a lot more info that you could’ve given us because I’m sure this wasn’t as easy as it looked. Secondly the other side, is that side so much harder that you didn’t wanna to show or was it because only one side needed it? Also what about a 2001 4.3 S-10 LS 2 x 4?? It almost feels like your Just discussing and showing other mechanics that have 15-20 years under their belt and most of the time, I think on RUclips that it’s people that are needing the help rather than giving the instructions. so an explanation of some of the things that might be a problem in this job would help. And what would really be great is if you had a partner shoot some better camera angles and possibly the list of tools that were used. Also once you have the front wheels off the ground, where did you place a piece of wood under the engine before you jacked it up?? do you use a 6in piece of a 2 x 6 underneath the middle of the whole pan to try to get the best balance? I don’t think I would use that technique. do you recommend something a little thicker? Like maybe a 4x4 block would work better? And that way you could maneuver it on both sides? or did you just decide to put a piece of wood wherever you felt was safe?? That would be really nice of you to answer this for us guys that are doing this for the first time. I know my engine mounts are over 20 years old And I can bet that there’s a few other owners out there that are in the same boat as me. Just trying to get this done so my engines doesn’t Droop down on one side or the other and calls transmission failure to drive shaft. I mean I know or failure to the drive shaft. some video editing went into this but you clearly made it look like you got this job done in about 25mins. Also how many hrs labor do you think a shop would charge to install the two front motor mounts?? thanks man. This was a cool
Correct!! Videos are Worthless without a Good Explanation. We don't all do this for a living as you said, so WHY BUY PARTS from them if they can't even be thorough. I know I won't and that's all they care about.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Very good video! Direct and to the point; no ad lib. Many who make videos of this type talk continuously about everything but the subject matter! Thank you for an excellent video!
On my sonoma for the drivers side i removed the steering shaft and the fender liner(optional but better space) wasnt hard at all just took me an afternoon because it was my first time. (If u have no clearance for the bottom bolt on the engine u can lift it up more about and inch or two carefully and i was able to use my ratchet)
Do Not listen to a damn thing on this video! I repeat do not.
Step 1 Losen lug nuts
Step 2 Jack up and place jack stands under frame if you don't have a lift.
Step 3 Remove wheels.
Step 4 Place jack under engine oil pan with a block of wood between jack and oil pan and raise jack just until it makes contact.
Step 5 Remove long bolt from both sides of engine mounts, You will need a 5/8's and an 11/16 wrench or sockets.
Step 6 Jack up engine as far as you can.
Step 7 Remove bottom frame mount. 3, 13mm bolts hold this to the frame. Very important step!!!
Step 8 Remove Upper engine mount. 3 15mm bolts 2 on top one on bottom.
Step 9 Install new engine mount to engine and tighten or torque to specs.
Step 10 Re-install lower frame mounts to frame.
Step 11 Lower engine and install long bolt from step 5.
Step 12 Put the damn wheels back on get it off the jack stands and drive it.
You don't need to run out and buy any special tools and I don't know why there are not any video's on RUclips on how to easily install these damn motor mounts.
Is the driver's side as simple as your explanation. It seems maybe the steering shaft might be partially in the way
Gid i wish it was this easy lol. Thanks for the refresher, i now renember every cut, brake kleen in eye, and frustration screams at that stupid lower bolt
So I got the old one out and I have no space at all to put the new mount in what do I do bc I can’t put it through the wheel well because my exhaust manifold is to close
The GM service manual instructs using cast bosses on the aft end of the engine block to support the engine. They explicitly say not to push the engine up using the oil pan so to avoid distorting it and reducing clearance between it and the oil pickup.
I would guess that what was done in the video has worked well for very many. Just be sure to distribute the load with a large piece of wood.
Much harder on a 2 wheel drive passenger side to line up the through bolt because the upper control arms are in the way and the starter as well
Thanks for showing simple crap such us removing the tire and disconnecting the battery, then only showing the easy side and not the more difficult drivers side. I just wasted 6:31 minutes, hoping to see something that would help me get the drivers side.
Please advise where did you place the jack to jack up one side of the engine?
Do you have to remove the thru bolt on the driver side motor mount to Jackie up engine?
Please advise!
I wish you had shown me how you got them bolts out. I know I can't get to them on a Sonoma or S10.
Good Video, I used a metric 15mm wobbly on the lower motor mount bolt.
11/16 Rear nut on the cross bolt
5/8 or 16mm on bolt head of cross bolt
Thanks
To get out the passenger side long bolt took a lot of effort with only a box-end wrench and a ratchet wrench.
The upper two bolts to the block are hard to get out. I had to use a swivel joint at the socket and then extensions.
I have a 2002 Chevrolet S10 4x4, Is the drivers side much more difficult? I liked the video.
Bro gave all the sizes such a good video
+@JarodHaws Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Holding the new motor mount in place for the first bolt is hard! What did you do to keep it roughly aligned with the bolt holes?
Do you have any information on how to install the mounts on an '01 S10 4.3 Before I drop the engine in the last 10 inches or so? I can't find an exploded parts diagram to see if the top of the mount should be attached first (and How?) before dropping it over the bottom and inserting the bolts??
Can you guys start saying what sizes they are that would be great
Why not do both how does this help
In the video there is far more space than in Mines. The first bolt can't be seen the bolt that holds the line bracket is practically unreachable
Bad mounts sink and/or compress and it’s tight in there anyway. He must have used a ZR-2 for the video. They have more room.
Do you have a video for the 2.2 model?
Much harder on a 4WD s10 you literally have to take the whole front end apart and drop the front differential. Not to mention drop both axles.
This is for a v6
whats the sizes? doesnt really show how to
Might want to reconnect the starter.
Thanks
For some S10’s don’t you have to pull the engine for the rear mount?
What rear mount
Seem alittle too simple.
How can we tell if the mounts need to be replaced?
You can look at the excessive movement of the engine when you start the engine or advance the throttle or you can examine each mount and observe the cracked rubber/plastic material that allows the mount to properly absorb engine vibration. The cracked material is the most accurate method to use.
THis looks nothing like my 95 S10. I CANT EVEN SEE MOST OF THE MOUNT.
My s10 is the dirtiest oiliest motor vehicle I’ve ever worked on in my life, I’m eventually gonna power wash that entire engine top & bottom
Veerakle
OK TRQ Mechanic, clearly you’re making this look way too easy. you really need to help explain a little bit more to us guys that don’t do the stuff for a living I mean I had a feeling that there was a lot more info that you could’ve given us because I’m sure this wasn’t as easy as it looked. Secondly the other side, is that side so much harder that you didn’t wanna to show or was it because only one side needed it? Also what about a 2001 4.3 S-10 LS 2 x 4?? It almost feels like your Just discussing and showing other mechanics that have 15-20 years under their belt and most of the time, I think on RUclips that it’s people that are needing the help rather than giving the instructions. so an explanation of some of the things that might be a problem in this job would help. And what would really be great is if you had a partner shoot some better camera angles and possibly the list of tools that were used. Also once you have the front wheels off the ground, where did you place a piece of wood under the engine before you jacked it up?? do you use a 6in piece of a 2 x 6 underneath the middle of the whole pan to try to get the best balance? I don’t think I would use that technique. do you recommend something a little thicker? Like maybe a 4x4 block would work better? And that way you could maneuver it on both sides? or did you just decide to put a piece of wood wherever you felt was safe?? That would be really nice of you to answer this for us guys that are doing this for the first time. I know my engine mounts are over 20 years old And I can bet that there’s a few other owners out there that are in the same boat as me. Just trying to get this done so my engines doesn’t Droop down on one side or the other and calls transmission failure to drive shaft. I mean I know or failure to the drive shaft. some video editing went into this but you clearly made it look like you got this job done in about 25mins. Also how many hrs labor do you think a shop would charge to install the two front motor mounts?? thanks man. This was a cool
Correct!! Videos are Worthless without a Good Explanation. We don't all do this for a living as you said, so WHY BUY PARTS from them if they can't even be thorough. I know I won't and that's all they care about.