These are absolutely FANTASTIC cars. I owned one for 4 years. I sold it with 266k miles on it. It was lightly modified and still ran 12.9 in the 1/4 mile, would top out the speedometer and, if you drove the speed limit, i could get 26mpg out of it at 75mph. It never left me stranded, never had any major issues. I replaced the tie rods, an alternator, the oil filter housing gaskets and the little cap on the timing cover. Before I owned it, it was driven hard, the previous owner tracked it at Road America when his porsche was being worked on. It's probably the most reliable, most affordable AMG you can buy.
I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and fixed both the misfire and O2 sensor code. I'd say that’s the best $25 I ever spent! Thanks for the video!
Just bought my 2nd 2002 e320 4matic. Found it in an estate sale. Sat for 4 years in a garage with 42k miles. Love love this car. Will park it during the winter and use my old 2001 e3204matic that runs great but rusting away
I changed the motor and trans mounts as well, and switched over to lubri moly oil too. My car is a 98 E300 TD and it is running quieter than any newer diesel on the market with only 215K miles.
I’m going to use this guide for my w208 2001 clk 55 amg, since the difference between this car and the w210 e55 is just the amount of doors. My clk55 has been sitting for over 12 year and we finally got it into the shop, a year down the road its seen around 7k in fixes and we were mean’t to get it back this week but problems arose on the test drive as cylinder 8 started to misfire and we have a EVAP error code popping up, which is actually what led me to your channel because we’re trying to diagnose the causes of the misfire, we didn’t get a tune up or change sparkplugs, coilpacks, and wires so all of such could be corroded because of 42 seasons worth of weathering. I hope it’s nothing too fatal for the car, as it only has 116k miles. I’ll also be following this guide to help maintain the car, im just happy that there’s no significant or heavy rust areas especially considering that it sad for over a decade in all 4 seasons.
I have a W210 E240 2.6 petrol. Its 24 years old and I use it daily with only 65,000 miles on the clock. I have had problems in the past with both crank and Cam sensor which I had replaced by my local mechanic for £158 about $200. This was also a problem with my C320 which I had for about 10 years. I now take it to a Mercedes specialist for servicing and I am happy to spend the money to maintain it. I budget to spend about $2000 this year replacing tyres, brakes and hoses. Perhaps any pipes which are corroded also. I need to take better care of it. I had left it parked up for a while when I bought a newer C class from a Mercedes dealer. It had a full Mercedes service history and was totally cared for. That cost me about $15,000 and it broke at 60,000 miles when the timing chain failed. (plastic guides to the chain) Unreal. Your video is an excellent guide and I can also recommend another RUclips video producer; SPR Mercedes. Sam gives a step by step in servicing and repairs to customers cars.
Solid video, you really covered a majority of the issues with these cars. My E55 has pretty much all of the problems you mentioned including rusted jack pads and inner fender arches lol. Oh and I need rotors aswell hahaha, probably will take me 3 years of maintenance before I can truly drive it daily. But I'll never sell it.
I just bought my 2nd e55 amg last week (the day before my birthday. $3500 for a family owned 2001 e55 amg with 110k miles clean title. Little to no rust (only tiny bit on roof). Sat in a barn for many years.
Well I am here now with a 2001 e430 so we'll see how this goes so far I know I'm going to replace the secondary cats as they have a rattle noise if not hit the maf and crank sensor then move on to the seals
Good luck. I picked up a 1998 e 300 turbo disel with 240k. Runs great needs engine mounts and shocks. No rust found a small leak around oil filter housing. Hoping it's just the cap gasket.
5 minutes to replace a crank sensor, took me 2 days, a strained back and olive oil on my arm to get down there, what did you remove to make it 5 minutes.
@SeamHead33 Giveaway is coming soon. Working too much right now, trying to find the time. I have many other projects and things I do and unfortunately the channel doesn't want to see those things.
Thank you for that list! Very helpful to keep those in mind. The only super expensive repairs i had were the front cv axles on my 4matic, those are about 1500€ each when bought from mercedes. Workshops around here seem to only use oem parts, maybe thats different where you are.
I just picked up a 2000 E55. Where can you get the ribbon for the cluster? Have a vid on replacing it? Also what fuse is for the alarm?. Have a parasitic draw and figure that be a good place to start. Thanks!
My favorite thing is when my car rolls down the windows slightly whenever I'm fully engaging the ignition. It's also a good point for me to know if all 4 of my windows are working, almost simultaneously.
How does this work? Is it a normal thing, and how do you "fully engage" the ignition? Wouldn't the start just keep turning then? I'm a noob to the W210
@@surfbug1 there is position 0, which is fully off (you just stuck the key in). There is position 1, where it is one click to the right, and it runs baseline functions like windows and radio. There is position 2, which is runs the auxiliary systems and such when the car isn't running. There is position 3, which is what I consider "fully engaging" the starter, and the key then springs back to position 2 after this. During this moment of full engagement, but before the engine turns over, it rolls down my windows.
@@surfbug1 there is position 0, which is fully off (you just stuck the key in). There is position 1, where it is one click to the right, and it runs baseline functions like windows and radio. There is position 2, which is runs the auxiliary systems and such when the car isn't running. There is position 3, which is what I consider "fully engaging" the starter, and the key then springs back to position 2 after this. During this moment of full engagement, but before the engine turns over, it rolls down my windows.
@@surfbug1 and as far as it being a normal thing, I've noticed it has periods/phases where this happens. Sometimes it goes weeks without it rolling down once, and then one day it starts again and this also will last for days to weeks before the cycle repeats itself.
I have a 2001 e430 w210 but it won’t unlock when I point the key at the driver door so I have to walk around to the passenger door and point the key at the door then and unlock all the doors
@PV Denali Yes mine was in the passenger side wheel well, towards the rear. There is a hard to see bolt to remove it that is located in the engine bay ECU compartment, towards the rear of the compartment. I have a shot showing about 15" of extensions needed to access that bolt. The whole thing is pretty easy to remove though all things considered.
Great video. Looking for my 7th W210 rn because I don't wanna use my E55 with 106K miles as a daily driver, I wanna keep it clean and lower mileage for resale value.
@SeamHead33 Right on, I have been thinking about getting a low mile W210 E320 as a daily/long distance driver. Can get a pretty well care for example for a lot less money than E430 and E55. I would be devasted if my E55 got wrecked, much less if E320. Also better MPG I would think for long drives.
It goes without saying that you should probably look into replacing all rubber components on a car this old, my brake lines look like they're going to burst at some point soon, due to the dry rot, and the same thing actually did just happen with the power steering lines right when I was about to pull into my driveway, and then it pissed power steering fluid all over my driveway. But fortunately, since it happened very close to home, I didn't burn up the power steering pump or cause any more damage. I just replaced all of the power steering hoses last night and it wasn't that bad of a job in fact you don't really need a lift for it, you can do it by removing the driver side wheel.
Great video! My radiator fan immediately goes to full speed when starting and doesn't change speed in my 1998 W210, also my air conditioning doesn't get very cold. I have an oil leak that drips about a quarter size drip if sitting for 24 hours. All my doors lock and unlock except my rear door on the drivers side. My headlights are finicky and will go out at times, but a wiggle of the wires seem to fix that problem. Any input around these issues would be great!
I am in love with your car. I have a 2001 white E430 Sport with 228,000 miles AND with green designo seats, door panels floor mats and maple wood trim. Funny enough I have the exact same exhaust setup as yours with the X pipe in the same spot. Anyway I left a comment months back and said I would make a video on it but never got around to it and just took it out of winter storage a couple days ago. But I have a question the headlights on the drivers side sometimes work but turn off immediately after or after a couple minutes and sometimes they don’t work at all. But the smaller light usually works. Any ideas what that might be? Thanks in advance for your time and input👍
@Sean Schuler Yes I remember, I still want to see pics/video :) As far as the headlight goes, is it halogen or upgraded to xenon? I know my AMGs have terrible headlight wire insulation and can crack causing shorts internal and then the module will shut that headlight off. I think if you have xenon I would swap bulbs with other side low beam and if that does not move the problem then I would think the ballast. If it is halogen, I would check for grounds and double check bulb connectors that they do not show heat damage. When it warms up, loose connectors can cause problems. If all of the above checks out maybe I would check headlight switch but since the other side works I don't think it would be that. If your inner smaller lights works (high beam) that is on another circuit and is usually a halogen bulb. Hope that helps and best of luck.
@@BaldManMotors I am 90 percent sure it’s a halogen bulb. I forgot to mention that part! I bought a new bulb a couple years back thinking that was the issue (like $140 bulb) and it actually worked fine for a couple days but then it started doing the same thing as the last bulb. So weird. Sounds dumb but the 3 and a half years I have owned this car I never fixed that problem! I will try swapping the lights from the small to the big one and see if that does anything and check the wires and connections for any defectiveness. I have thought about ordering new headlight assembly’s but i dont want to if there’s nothing wrong with the ones on the car
This is my thinking for my just obtained Mercedes built in 2006 with supercharger with 160hp. Super charger, unlike turbocharger, inherently will not have body operating temperature above 200 deg C. Also supercharger have its own ester base oil sump, so unlike turbocharger it is not depending on engine oil for lubricating. If your area climate does not have temperature dropping to 20 deg C, then semi sythetic 10W40 like Shell HX7 MB229.3 (have to be engine oil for older cars ad it will be having addivitives for keeping old rubber seals supple) is already very good. If climate goes down to 10 deg C (like Florida) then 5W40 is good. Then you need 0W40 if having 4 season climate like in Minesota. Look into old Mercedes hand book for owners. 10W 40 oil is the "normal" oil. For rattling noise please check timming chain espcially for M271 MB engine. I am buying a dip stick as the engine have none. I will check oil level every 1000 miles. Change out semi synthetic oil and filter at every 7 thousand miles or max 1 year. I am considering it a very good engine if the oil you need to top up, in between oil change, is not more than 1 quart. For my E200k have oil sump of 5.7 litres I will ask the mechanic to pour in oil at 4.0 litre. I will check dashboard what the oil indicator is showing. Then to 5.0 litre and then lastly to 5.7 litre. Also dip every occasion for level by new dip stick. I intend to keep every top up at not more than 0.5 litre. Regards.
Im extremely lucky with my AMG that there is zero rust... even with 216,433 miles...I also wash it on a weekly basis...and only drive it when the weather permits...
Use plastic conditioner when they are still non-brittle. Rubber conditioner for all seals since those are hard to come across. Rust conversion wherever there's rust and cleaning front wings from any debris. No way to prevent yet to know. Klimatronic units might stop working due to buttons. The plastic caps below the visible buttons are fragile with time and will break thus no longer pressing the cylindrical buttons. It might look like the unit doesn't work but removing the buttons cap with a plastic tool will allow to depress the cylindrical button and test the unit correctly. Still trying to figure out if the plastic caps underneath are replaceable or have to have a reinforcement (superglue or hot glue).
@@BaldManMotors The warning came on after going into limp home mode. I changed the conductor plate and plug along with filter and fluid, but the car was still in limp mode. I bought a icarsoft MB V1.0 to see if I can get more info. Do you know if a 1998 w210 needs to be cleared out of limp mode?
@Tony R. Yes, I had to replace my conductor plate on my 01 (same trans) and I had to clear the hard code. (I also had to do it once when the shifter got wet) Unfortunately, most scanners cant clear that code and I ended getting carsoft V12 software w/multiplexer and a old laptop to do it, cost around 250 for software and dongle/multiplexer and spent $80 on a ebay laptop (needs rs232 serial port) The carsoft website should show if your scanner can reset a hard trans code in a W210 but I don't think it does. An indy shop should be able to do for a fee, I assume your stuck in 2nd gear though so may have to tow. Anyone with a DAS/Star Diagnostic scanner should be able to reset as well.
That's a shame, the e320 is one of the easiest cars to work on. Might I suggest getting carsoft V12 laptop or the like can save a ton of money and find problems yourself pretty easy.
@Steven Laskowski Thanks! That's my W211 2006 E55 in #359 Capri Blue Metallic There are several videos of it on the channel 👍It the same color as my C55 too
Very interesting though big frustration cos' you speak too fast and jump too fast from an issue to another so not enough time to understand properly which part and where to check. You could add some more description .... And talk too about the heather valve and, for it's daughter the W211, the unavoidable problems of SRS and SCR..
@@jay_tarantula899He doesn't have to shut up he just stated something many people are probably thinking. However, this video is quite informative on how to take care of this car.
I get this loud startup rattle with cold engine for 1-3 seconds depending how cold it is and from the video you mention switching to Liqui Moly might help. I found this Synthoil High Tech 5W-40 by Liqui Moly and it's also MB 229.3 so is it good or should I try to find the Synthoil Premium instead? I want the best of the best for my car :)
@JK-AUTO So I'll say I am no oil expert at all but from a bit of digging on forums and such, it seems that the high tech would be great option for you. Purple/violet bottle I believe. It seems there is different marketing here in the US than Europe and some even say the purple was changed to blue bottle because it made Royal Purple oil unhappy but who knows. The oils are not identical but they are both great for Merc 229.3 I see officially my Blue bottle synthoil premium is only on LM US website and the purple synthoil high tech is only LM Europe. I guess in this scenario I would say it wouldn't hurt to try it. Also curious if you have tried the Liqui Moly "hydraulic lifter additive" if indeed that is what is giving you startup rattle?
@@BaldManMotors Gotta check that additive out for sure. Thanks for your input! I also think that those oils shouldn't have a huge difference so I'll give that a go.
You can tell it in his voice and appearance - the matter-of-fact affect, sharp vocal delineation, and face shape. It's common amongst the Trump supporters.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Until now, I haven't seen a video on RUclips about W210 maintenance in such detail. I appreciate you.
These are absolutely FANTASTIC cars. I owned one for 4 years. I sold it with 266k miles on it. It was lightly modified and still ran 12.9 in the 1/4 mile, would top out the speedometer and, if you drove the speed limit, i could get 26mpg out of it at 75mph. It never left me stranded, never had any major issues. I replaced the tie rods, an alternator, the oil filter housing gaskets and the little cap on the timing cover.
Before I owned it, it was driven hard, the previous owner tracked it at Road America when his porsche was being worked on.
It's probably the most reliable, most affordable AMG you can buy.
I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and fixed both the misfire and O2 sensor code. I'd say that’s the best $25 I ever spent! Thanks for the video!
Just bought my 2nd 2002 e320 4matic. Found it in an estate sale. Sat for 4 years in a garage with 42k miles. Love love this car. Will park it during the winter and use my old 2001 e3204matic that runs great but rusting away
I think this only happens in some states. I’m from cali my W210 doesn’t have any of these issues. Plus she hardly sits in the sun.
I changed the motor and trans mounts as well, and switched over to lubri moly oil too.
My car is a 98 E300 TD and it is running quieter than any newer diesel on the market with only 215K miles.
Did you change the engine mounts yourself?
I’m going to use this guide for my w208 2001 clk 55 amg, since the difference between this car and the w210 e55 is just the amount of doors. My clk55 has been sitting for over 12 year and we finally got it into the shop, a year down the road its seen around 7k in fixes and we were mean’t to get it back this week but problems arose on the test drive as cylinder 8 started to misfire and we have a EVAP error code popping up, which is actually what led me to your channel because we’re trying to diagnose the causes of the misfire, we didn’t get a tune up or change sparkplugs, coilpacks, and wires so all of such could be corroded because of 42 seasons worth of weathering. I hope it’s nothing too fatal for the car, as it only has 116k miles.
I’ll also be following this guide to help maintain the car, im just happy that there’s no significant or heavy rust areas especially considering that it sad for over a decade in all 4 seasons.
I have a W210 E240 2.6 petrol. Its 24 years old and I use it daily with only 65,000 miles on the clock. I have had problems in the past with both crank and Cam sensor which I had replaced by my local mechanic for £158 about $200. This was also a problem with my C320 which I had for about 10 years. I now take it to a Mercedes specialist for servicing and I am happy to spend the money to maintain it. I budget to spend about $2000 this year replacing tyres, brakes and hoses. Perhaps any pipes which are corroded also. I need to take better care of it.
I had left it parked up for a while when I bought a newer C class from a Mercedes dealer. It had a full Mercedes service history and was totally cared for. That cost me about $15,000 and it broke at 60,000 miles when the timing chain failed. (plastic guides to the chain) Unreal.
Your video is an excellent guide and I can also recommend another RUclips video producer; SPR Mercedes. Sam gives a step by step in servicing and repairs to customers cars.
Transmission electrical plate on valve body, 13 pin connector on trans leaks, shifter bushing, stop lamp switch for esp light.
The top 1/4" fitting on the radiator tends to snap off too.
Solid video, you really covered a majority of the issues with these cars. My E55 has pretty much all of the problems you mentioned including rusted jack pads and inner fender arches lol. Oh and I need rotors aswell hahaha, probably will take me 3 years of maintenance before I can truly drive it daily. But I'll never sell it.
I just bought my 2nd e55 amg last week (the day before my birthday.
$3500 for a family owned 2001 e55 amg with 110k miles clean title. Little to no rust (only tiny bit on roof).
Sat in a barn for many years.
@Bostongreenm3 Wow that is an incredible deal, congrats!
bought mine from family for $3000 with 100k miles, very greatful
Picking up one of these tomorrow - I didn't check any of this stuff, wish me luck.
Thats so funny, im in exact same situation right now man. How did it go for you?
Well I am here now with a 2001 e430 so we'll see how this goes so far I know I'm going to replace the secondary cats as they have a rattle noise if not hit the maf and crank sensor then move on to the seals
picking up an E320 next week.. 01, hopefully no rust or leaks! ive only seen a few photos
Good luck. I picked up a 1998 e 300 turbo disel with 240k. Runs great needs engine mounts and shocks. No rust found a small leak around oil filter housing. Hoping it's just the cap gasket.
@@alastairh9607 picked up w211 e320 cdi, 325k kms, runs great needs rolling bars replaced
5 minutes to replace a crank sensor, took me 2 days, a strained back and olive oil on my arm to get down there, what did you remove to make it 5 minutes.
Sheeesh. I'd like to know now too.
An new content anytime soon...I really enjoy the how to's and it's been super helpful...thank you...and I can't wait for something new
Yeah I cant wait to see who won the floormats and the subscriber's car photos
@SeamHead33 Giveaway is coming soon. Working too much right now, trying to find the time. I have many other projects and things I do and unfortunately the channel doesn't want to see those things.
@@BaldManMotors Roger that brother.
I was just wondering if something bad happened...Hopefully I'm in the running for the mats ...but either way I'm still psyched for more content
Thank you for that list! Very helpful to keep those in mind. The only super expensive repairs i had were the front cv axles on my 4matic, those are about 1500€ each when bought from mercedes. Workshops around here seem to only use oem parts, maybe thats different where you are.
I just picked up a 2000 E55. Where can you get the ribbon for the cluster? Have a vid on replacing it? Also what fuse is for the alarm?. Have a parasitic draw and figure that be a good place to start. Thanks!
Voltage regulator in the alternator before the brushes wear down and the serpentine belt, tensioner and idler pulley before they self destruct.
Great content! and your vids getting more interesting and better each time
My favorite thing is when my car rolls down the windows slightly whenever I'm fully engaging the ignition. It's also a good point for me to know if all 4 of my windows are working, almost simultaneously.
How does this work?
Is it a normal thing, and how do you "fully engage" the ignition? Wouldn't the start just keep turning then? I'm a noob to the W210
@@surfbug1 there is position 0, which is fully off (you just stuck the key in). There is position 1, where it is one click to the right, and it runs baseline functions like windows and radio. There is position 2, which is runs the auxiliary systems and such when the car isn't running. There is position 3, which is what I consider "fully engaging" the starter, and the key then springs back to position 2 after this.
During this moment of full engagement, but before the engine turns over, it rolls down my windows.
@@surfbug1 there is position 0, which is fully off (you just stuck the key in). There is position 1, where it is one click to the right, and it runs baseline functions like windows and radio. There is position 2, which is runs the auxiliary systems and such when the car isn't running. There is position 3, which is what I consider "fully engaging" the starter, and the key then springs back to position 2 after this.
During this moment of full engagement, but before the engine turns over, it rolls down my windows.
@@surfbug1 and as far as it being a normal thing, I've noticed it has periods/phases where this happens. Sometimes it goes weeks without it rolling down once, and then one day it starts again and this also will last for days to weeks before the cycle repeats itself.
Dude your videos are great. I love em. Looking forward to seeing more
Glad you like them!
@@BaldManMotors I am picking up a project e55 so theyve been helpful. You on any other social media platforms?
@@jeremiahfriegorgeous7266 On facebook, sometimes I post in the W210 E55 group.
I have a 2001 e430 w210 but it won’t unlock when I point the key at the driver door so I have to walk around to the passenger door and point the key at the door then and unlock all the doors
Is that alarm siren located on the passenger side front fender well? My alarm is possessed and is starting go off randomly now. Ugh….
@PV Denali Yes mine was in the passenger side wheel well, towards the rear. There is a hard to see bolt to remove it that is located in the engine bay ECU compartment, towards the rear of the compartment. I have a shot showing about 15" of extensions needed to access that bolt. The whole thing is pretty easy to remove though all things considered.
My 01 e55 engine shakes/rattles when idle. Harder when cold, P/N shifter position. A let less when r/d or cars running. Any ideas? Lol
Engine Mounts
@@SeamHead33 definitely engine mounts
Great video. Looking for my 7th W210 rn because I don't wanna use my E55 with 106K miles as a daily driver, I wanna keep it clean and lower mileage for resale value.
@SeamHead33 Right on, I have been thinking about getting a low mile W210 E320 as a daily/long distance driver. Can get a pretty well care for example for a lot less money than E430 and E55. I would be devasted if my E55 got wrecked, much less if E320. Also better MPG I would think for long drives.
cars are meant to be driven dude.
It goes without saying that you should probably look into replacing all rubber components on a car this old, my brake lines look like they're going to burst at some point soon, due to the dry rot, and the same thing actually did just happen with the power steering lines right when I was about to pull into my driveway, and then it pissed power steering fluid all over my driveway. But fortunately, since it happened very close to home, I didn't burn up the power steering pump or cause any more damage. I just replaced all of the power steering hoses last night and it wasn't that bad of a job in fact you don't really need a lift for it, you can do it by removing the driver side wheel.
Great video! My radiator fan immediately goes to full speed when starting and doesn't change speed in my 1998 W210, also my air conditioning doesn't get very cold. I have an oil leak that drips about a quarter size drip if sitting for 24 hours. All my doors lock and unlock except my rear door on the drivers side. My headlights are finicky and will go out at times, but a wiggle of the wires seem to fix that problem. Any input around these issues would be great!
I am in love with your car. I have a 2001 white E430 Sport with 228,000 miles AND with green designo seats, door panels floor mats and maple wood trim. Funny enough I have the exact same exhaust setup as yours with the X pipe in the same spot. Anyway I left a comment months back and said I would make a video on it but never got around to it and just took it out of winter storage a couple days ago. But I have a question the headlights on the drivers side sometimes work but turn off immediately after or after a couple minutes and sometimes they don’t work at all. But the smaller light usually works. Any ideas what that might be? Thanks in advance for your time and input👍
@Sean Schuler Yes I remember, I still want to see pics/video :) As far as the headlight goes, is it halogen or upgraded to xenon? I know my AMGs have terrible headlight wire insulation and can crack causing shorts internal and then the module will shut that headlight off. I think if you have xenon I would swap bulbs with other side low beam and if that does not move the problem then I would think the ballast. If it is halogen, I would check for grounds and double check bulb connectors that they do not show heat damage. When it warms up, loose connectors can cause problems. If all of the above checks out maybe I would check headlight switch but since the other side works I don't think it would be that. If your inner smaller lights works (high beam) that is on another circuit and is usually a halogen bulb. Hope that helps and best of luck.
@@BaldManMotors I am 90 percent sure it’s a halogen bulb. I forgot to mention that part! I bought a new bulb a couple years back thinking that was the issue (like $140 bulb) and it actually worked fine for a couple days but then it started doing the same thing as the last bulb. So weird. Sounds dumb but the 3 and a half years I have owned this car I never fixed that problem! I will try swapping the lights from the small to the big one and see if that does anything and check the wires and connections for any defectiveness. I have thought about ordering new headlight assembly’s but i dont want to if there’s nothing wrong with the ones on the car
This is my thinking for my just obtained Mercedes built in 2006 with supercharger with 160hp. Super charger, unlike turbocharger, inherently will not have body operating temperature above 200 deg C. Also supercharger have its own ester base oil sump, so unlike turbocharger it is not depending on engine oil for lubricating. If your area climate does not have temperature dropping to 20 deg C, then semi sythetic 10W40 like Shell HX7 MB229.3 (have to be engine oil for older cars ad it will be having addivitives for keeping old rubber seals supple) is already very good. If climate goes down to 10 deg C (like Florida) then 5W40 is good. Then you need 0W40 if having 4 season climate like in Minesota. Look into old Mercedes hand book for owners. 10W 40 oil is the "normal" oil. For rattling noise please check timming chain espcially for M271 MB engine. I am buying a dip stick as the engine have none. I will check oil level every 1000 miles. Change out semi synthetic oil and filter at every 7 thousand miles or max 1 year. I am considering it a very good engine if the oil you need to top up, in between oil change, is not more than 1 quart. For my E200k have oil sump of 5.7 litres I will ask the mechanic to pour in oil at 4.0 litre. I will check dashboard what the oil indicator is showing. Then to 5.0 litre and then lastly to 5.7 litre. Also dip every occasion for level by new dip stick. I intend to keep every top up at not more than 0.5 litre. Regards.
please is this car still available for sale? am Jerome Bright from Nigeria
Love the info...thank you and keep them coming!!!
@Rob Schaben Sure thing and will do, thanks for watching!
Yeah ive learned a lot about w210 rust after purchasing the sons e430
@Rob Schaben That's no fun, I need to get mine fixed soon.
Im extremely lucky with my AMG that there is zero rust... even with 216,433 miles...I also wash it on a weekly basis...and only drive it when the weather permits...
Use plastic conditioner when they are still non-brittle. Rubber conditioner for all seals since those are hard to come across.
Rust conversion wherever there's rust and cleaning front wings from any debris.
No way to prevent yet to know. Klimatronic units might stop working due to buttons. The plastic caps below the visible buttons are fragile with time and will break thus no longer pressing the cylindrical buttons.
It might look like the unit doesn't work but removing the buttons cap with a plastic tool will allow to depress the cylindrical button and test the unit correctly.
Still trying to figure out if the plastic caps underneath are replaceable or have to have a reinforcement (superglue or hot glue).
I have a 98 e430 sport giving me a check engine electronics warning light.
Uh oh, did you figure it out?
@@BaldManMotors The warning came on after going into limp home mode. I changed the conductor plate and plug along with filter and fluid, but the car was still in limp mode. I bought a icarsoft MB V1.0 to see if I can get more info. Do you know if a 1998 w210 needs to be cleared out of limp mode?
@Tony R. Yes, I had to replace my conductor plate on my 01 (same trans) and I had to clear the hard code. (I also had to do it once when the shifter got wet) Unfortunately, most scanners cant clear that code and I ended getting carsoft V12 software w/multiplexer and a old laptop to do it, cost around 250 for software and dongle/multiplexer and spent $80 on a ebay laptop (needs rs232 serial port) The carsoft website should show if your scanner can reset a hard trans code in a W210 but I don't think it does. An indy shop should be able to do for a fee, I assume your stuck in 2nd gear though so may have to tow. Anyone with a DAS/Star Diagnostic scanner should be able to reset as well.
@@BaldManMotors Thank you. I'll search for a nearby shop to clear it.
@@T1374how many miles does the car has
Thanks for the informative video!
I have a w210 e320 wagon that is in dire need of care, none of my local shops will service it, they refuse
its sad cause i really dont have the money to maintain it though
That's a shame, the e320 is one of the easiest cars to work on. Might I suggest getting carsoft V12 laptop or the like can save a ton of money and find problems yourself pretty easy.
Great video. Thank you!
🇲🇽🇲🇽 Apenas 6 meses con mi E320 Elegance W210 año 2002. Estaré al pendiente de su mantenimiento. 👍👍💪💪🇲🇽🇲🇽
Have you done any work to your exhaust?
@Chris Papadolias Not anything new since my straight pipe exhaust video, I think about a year old now
@@BaldManMotors sounds awesome.
Is buying one of these with 110k miles for 16k a good deal. Let me know if possible please
Sounds a bit steep to me but values are so crazy.
I bought my e430 for $1500. 140k miles. Non AMG but still. That’s way too much
4:58 W211 what color? Very nice!
@Steven Laskowski Thanks! That's my W211 2006 E55 in #359 Capri Blue Metallic There are several videos of it on the channel 👍It the same color as my C55 too
Very interesting though big frustration cos' you speak too fast and jump too fast from an issue to another so not enough time to understand properly which part and where to check. You could add some more description .... And talk too about the heather valve and, for it's daughter the W211, the unavoidable problems of SRS and SCR..
But who's gonna pay the bills just to keep these cars on the road? Will mercedes give us a medal for doing it?
Will any car provider? Either have enough money to replace or maintain. If ya can't, shuddap😅
It's a lot cheaper than the cost of a new car if you diy
@@jay_tarantula899He doesn't have to shut up he just stated something many people are probably thinking. However, this video is quite informative on how to take care of this car.
Yes actually Mercedes gives a medal for certain mileage landmarks.
I love mine!
I get this loud startup rattle with cold engine for 1-3 seconds depending how cold it is and from the video you mention switching to Liqui Moly might help. I found this Synthoil High Tech 5W-40 by Liqui Moly and it's also MB 229.3 so is it good or should I try to find the Synthoil Premium instead? I want the best of the best for my car :)
@JK-AUTO So I'll say I am no oil expert at all but from a bit of digging on forums and such, it seems that the high tech would be great option for you. Purple/violet bottle I believe. It seems there is different marketing here in the US than Europe and some even say the purple was changed to blue bottle because it made Royal Purple oil unhappy but who knows. The oils are not identical but they are both great for Merc 229.3 I see officially my Blue bottle synthoil premium is only on LM US website and the purple synthoil high tech is only LM Europe. I guess in this scenario I would say it wouldn't hurt to try it. Also curious if you have tried the Liqui Moly "hydraulic lifter additive" if indeed that is what is giving you startup rattle?
@@BaldManMotors Gotta check that additive out for sure. Thanks for your input! I also think that those oils shouldn't have a huge difference so I'll give that a go.
It's ironic how the best E-CLASS is the worst E-CLASS ONLY BECAUSE OF RUST!!!..
You just talked me out of it
So maybe it’s better to get a Lexus LS430 of the same era, I think they are better built
\-\ 0:05 super drift cars 0:09
Great video very informative but this guy never stops to take a breath stop reading information of a script
I found it hard to keep up
You look like a Trump supporter.
You can tell it in his voice and appearance - the matter-of-fact affect, sharp vocal delineation, and face shape. It's common amongst the Trump supporters.
Lol, I think our political system (all sides) is screwed so I don't get involved in politics. Nice bot try, though!
Make Prison Great Again!
Crap quality car...bad electrics ...rust issues..buy Lexus GS300
MINE IS CHERRY AS I clean everything