First Prints from the FUNMAT HT
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- The Funmat HT from Intamsys is interesting. It can print PEEK and ULTEM, going over 400C. It can also handle PLA and lower temp filaments. The build plate gets to 160C, and even the enclosed chamber goes to 90C. The build volume isn't small, and it's built extremely well. Let's have a look at some first prints from the machine!
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Print some things to send to CNC Kitchen for strength testing.
So I have used the Intamsys in the past and it really is a cool machine. A few things to note though: The models you printed don't really represent the parts you would typically print on such a machine (or with ASA for that matter). If you want nicely detailed prints, you would go for PLA on something like a Prusa. Where this printer is interesting is when it comes to engineering tasks (printing end use parts, fixtures, jigs, tools etc.). Many companies use PEEK, PEKK or PEI because they are rated for UL94 V-0, FAR 25.853 or OSU 65/65. I like your videos, don't get me wrong, but for this one you sort of missed the point in my opinion. Try printing something that shows of the crazy stiffness and strength of these materials, not just toys and figurines! :) Typically users print gears, flame retardant covers, high temp use cases (something in machinery or engines) etc.
For the adhesion issues, I would recommend Magigoo (at least for the low-temp stuff). It usually makes the removal quite a bit easier or at least provides a thicker coat which is easier to wash away under tap water. From my experience letting the parts cool down also helps (I know you said the opposite in your video). Adhesion solutions like Dimafix for example have graphs that show that the adhesion is weaker when it is below 60 degrees and strongest between 100 and 120 degrees. On top of that you also have the shrinkage of the Polymer when it cools down which sometimes even makes parts "pop" off. If you want to be a bit risky, try putting the glas plate in the freezer directly after a print. I do it all the time and did not have any issues, but if you're unlucky it could shatter the plate. ;)
echannover48 oh, believe me, we’re gonna print some stuff that test the materials for sure. But this was more just an “initial impressions” kind of video!
But thank you for watching and for the suggestions!
@@Aidenn23 Where's the follow up video?
I realize it's kinda off topic but do anybody know of a good website to stream newly released tv shows online ?
@Damian Karsyn Flixportal
I need to see you bake cupcakes in that printer!
I want to see that. LOL :)
Or pizza rolls?
@@renegadebiker24 ruclips.net/video/vbe4_mAA__s/видео.html maybe?
I like the pop up info when Joel mentions odd facts.
Makes it easier for everyone to follow along.
Print some samples for CNC Kitchen, so we can get some strength numbers :-) That would be a cool collab.
Oooooooo yes!
I actually couldn't care less about seeing more ABS prints, but I'm very interested in seeing prints with high temp materials. PEEK, PEI, some of the engineered nylon family materials etc.
As for what, I'd love to see some precision parts, gear sets, and functional parts. I'd also like to see you print some mechanical parts and test them under load.
Print a cupcake mold, make the cupcakes in the printer after printing the cupcake molds.
Finally a 3D printer that can make stuff that will survive in my engine bay.
have you tried PC? I'm about to use some polycarbonate on my truck. Glass transition temp is around 230F so I hope thats good enough for long term on the outside of the engine.
@@tronskifpv If the piece is necessary to keep it running you should test it first. Try putting a thermometer near the area to get the average temp while your truck is running. Then put the piece in the oven at that temperature to see if it can handle it.
Temper some PLA :) just try it out. It handles temperatures pretty good.
@@kh8655 I had hoped the OP had some experience with the materials we can print on cheap printers. Car intake manifolds are made from glass reinforced nylon. All of the white fluid tanks are high-density polyethylene. Both of those are things we can print right now. So id think we could make most anything as long as its not in contact with hot oil, exhaust or hot coolant. We might even be able to do coolant parts, but failure is too high a risk. Polycarobonate is on the low side of these materials, but its not critical and i have it to try.
@@Flacoon1 yes I'm sure that could do lots of areas on a vehicle. My part is next to the fuel rails so I expect the temps to hit ~200 F. I do however have a PLA bushing on my hood prop for a test. so far so good.
What about parts for your Giant RC car???
Please print an injection mold insert, and I will test it for you. This sounds like a perfect solution for low volume prototype injection molds.
I would like to see this as well!
Hit us up, we're doing some molding soon! What type of material?
This is a well tested method dude, google it. I've done it multiple times myself and it works great with some practice
@@VisionMiner I want to use an acetal, Delrin if possible, molding temp 220 to 240 degrees c
It is nice to see more video about other materials and stuff that other channels doesnt talk about, keep it up
I could never go back to glass for a build plate. long live the powder coated spring steel sheet!
How about printing the Prusa MK3s fan duct in PEEK? That will make the problem with "melting" fan ducts disappear :-)
Rasmus Lauritsen I don’t know but some types of peak go to $1000 a kilogram
You think the machine is expensive those rolls of PEEK are really expensive.
CMON MAN! You teased PEEK over 6 months ago, please print it!!! I'd like to see some of Stefan from CNC Kitchen strength test files printed. Then ship him them, and have him run strength tests! A good collab video! Or swing on it in your backyard again 😉 maybe a few gears for the open F1 RC? See how those hold up? If I'm gonna spend $6k on it, I wanna know the material lives up to it's claims.
There are other reviews on this printer that are not as nice!!!
Ok, so interesting indeed. Perfect even for my little business, I was considering something similar for motor parts. Looking forward to seeing more about this.
The low temp hot end does have a ptfe tube in the lower section! The peek tube is only on the cold side of the extruder. It wears out and will cause skipping like you are experiencing. Need to replace it often
Truth! We personally opt for all-metal, all the time. The PTFE just breaks down and gets in the way, really not necessary.
So you print abs and pc with the high temp head? Interesting
Wow. Lots of possibilities for sure Joel. Looking forward to your future prints with more exotic filaments.
Thanks!
Great video. Please use the high temp nozzle and print some test hooks for @CNC_Kitchen 😃
Print something in PEEK that you would normally make out of metal.
450C sounds hot enough to extrude tin, lead, and zinc based alloys. Though I suspect a plastic extrusion range is useful for standard FDM printing.
Wow Joel, that is a great printer, nice enclosure. Great build quality. So cool that it can print PEEK, pity the filament is so expensive. Thanks for showing this.
"He doesn't stand up on his own" -Joel about the Joelbot
"Just like the real Joel" - Sean.
"hahahahaha!" Me
You are not just my favorite 3D printing channel, but one of my favorite youtube channels. I think it is because you are funny, likable, and honest in your reviews. So many other 3D printer channels are way too easy on their reviews and hide the bad stuff.
LincolnWorld I was hoping someone would notice. 😂😂 glad you like the channel! Thanks for watching. ^_^
@@Aidenn23 I like when you edit in funny stuff too. Sometimes a comment, sometimes a clip from a tv show or movie. Good stuff!
I was waiting for PEEK. Everyone prints ABS w/enclosure on printers 10 times less the price, it's not a big deal.
Abs is very hydroscopic. I print more with abs than with pla and leaving abs set for any period of time in my house not sealed up would result in bad prints full of bubbles from the moisture boiling out. I could literally see steam spurting out of my printers nozzle as it printed. I've had to bake my abs multiple times to dry it out. My pla works fine even sitting out for weeks- months at a time. The only pla I had an issue with absorbing moisture was wood fill.
Exactly. Not as hydroscopic as nylon but worth looking after.
@@owensparks5013 I find it funny that people talk so much trash on abs, I don't find it that difficult to print with and the fumes aren't as bad as people seem to make them out to be, maybe im just not sensitive to it like others are, but im probably not like the average tech minded person into 3d printing. I am a machinist by trade and work on cars and get my hands dirty. I've been exposed to things thousands of times deadlier than some abs fumes from printing. Main reason I prefer abs is because I design and print prototypes of useful things, not just a bunch of little trinkets.
Well said 👍
Personally I use ABS for most things (day job is production engineer in factory) carbon loaded nylon for important stuff and PLA for arty widgets. Nothing scary there. After you've laid on your back under a car and flooded your hair in old gearbox oil a faint waft of hot plastic is not worth mentioning...
Agreed on all counts I think pla as a material is overrated. I use abs allot and some crazier filament. For me it's temp too pla just doesn't go anywhere near hot enough to be useful in so many applications for functional parts.
What are your favorite PET-G prints?
I just got ~100 sample spools in bulk
PRINT HAMMERS! This is a super easy control comparison for all your different strengths of filament! Also testing them would be just plain destructive fun!
I think it would be cool if you did some stress test videos of the engineering grade filaments.
2:06
Nearly guessed it
But still a few thousand degrees off
just 10 times off
The only insane thing about the price is the value you get with the build quality and performance of these machines especially the Pro310 IDEX!
Drinking game, every time the gloves come off or on, take a shot. :-)
I used to watch your videos a couple of years ago, before I started listening to metal(my new passion) and it’s great to see that your channel has tripled in size since than. I hope to see you reach a million.
HEY! Thanks for the kind words, and ROCK ON!
print a new gearshift knob out of real material
What about repeating your strength tests with the new materials?
Scraping prints off the print bed is a non-starter for me now that I have the Prusa MK3's removable flexible print bed.
Yeah. It appeared to be a nightmare removing the prints. I mean the friggin glass pulled off.
With the bed temps used for some materials, I suspect the magnets might go bad quicker if they made this a mag bed.
@@JeffDM that is very true. But they do make clip on removable beds that are flexible, I think.
@moXDesign That's not a bad idea! The glass probably contracts faster due to the cold than the plastic, and that pops it off. HEY JOEL! ARE YOU LISTENING? You need to try this and report back to us!
That glass fusing with the abs is a known problem of that type of bed. The same thing happend to me on a uktimaker 3. I solve the issue using Elmer's glue stick on the bed acting as a release agent. Works perfect, you can let the bed cool and then the part is easy to remove.
"Oh, no, it wasn't the airplanes. It was ABS killed the Beast."
ABS took a hunk of my plate, too, hahaha. I know those feels.
print an old school peek extruder. please.
I broke off a chunk on my borosilicate glass plate too. I did the same thing... I printed it in abs, and then let it cool overnight, and when I removed it, I ran into the same problem. So now I just let it cool down slightly so I can handle it and then remove it. Live and learn I guess. Joel you should make some peek egg shapers for cooking. That would work right?
First time i see the Joelbot. That’s hilariously accurate. Haha.
love to see a super fast print with PLA at those temps. the hotter the faster you can push filament through. the less time the filament stays at the hotend the cooler it will come out without damage.
MakersMuse did a video about ABS and if it ages... His results were that it's not very hygroscopic if it even is at all, and print quality stays consistent with even ABS filaments that have been on the shelf for numerous years.
the problem with too well adhesion to glass can be fixed with putting some water around the edge of the model. it can even help when cooled down to room temperature already. Works for me with PLA after cooling down on a ikea mirror when prints are too well stuck. just add some water around the edge, maybe try a bit to get lose, but often just wait and you can hear it crack loose or hear nothing. 1 min later and it can be removed with ease
I love TonerPlastics ABS and PLA, Makerbot, Microcenter, SeeMeCNC all used to resell their plastic. Not sure if they do anymore but To this day I still keep going back to it.
3DPN talking about 3D Printers and 3D Printing again? OMG!!!
How about some high-temp hose clamps, or something for an automobile or lawn-mower or something Iike that for a good high-temp test print.
Print a measuring cup or other kitchen accessories that you can dishwash! Awesome!
removing the print when the build plate it hot has the problem of warping your print as you try to lift it and it bends because the PLA is still warm.. so give it a few minutes to cool a little
For the price I would much rather get the Sinterit Lisa 3D Printer which is a desktop SLS Machine and is priced at 6000$ as well. If you could do a Printer review on that or one similar I would find that quite interesting to watch.
I mean thats great.. until you start factoring in the material costs for powdered metals, and limitations of how many things you would actually print with it vs a plastic option.
to protect glas buildplates you can use Printastick (it provides perfect adhesion, while also actingg as a separation layer to the glass. PETG also likes to grab on, I always use printastick whenever I print Petg, ABS or other stuff. can't afford delays due to failed prints for my element14presents videos.
Can you make some better parts for the F1 car? Pulleys, bearing etc.?
i have seen ABS break glass before, but it is much more common with PETG. Adding things like glue actually helps prints release without breaking the glass rather than making things stick even more.
the sun with 5.500 C: im a joke to you?
He was just 10 times off...
11 times
15,000,000 Celsius at the center of sun, 5600 c at surface
Very concerned about removing models when buildplate is still hot, sounds more like "work-around". With my experience, slow and even cooling of buildchamber for ABS part is a must in such scenario. Heated bed messes with printed part temperature, making cooling process even more complicated. By the way, is there an option to print without heated bed? I would definitely tried it if it's possible.
Also, thank you very much for the review. I've been waiting for this machine to become more popular, since it allows so much more than usual printers. Hope to see more :)
How about a Hairy Lion in PEEK. You may have to use a small blowtorch, instead of a hairdryer, to style it. But yeah. That.
looks like great slicer !
I was hoping to see some of the high temp plastics printed and get a look at their quality. Next time maybe?
I hear Kodak makes good abs, but I haven't used it myself.
It would be cool to see a bracket for your spool shelves and test it with Bill again. You could use those fancy materials.
Yes, but will it print a QSN? ;) that's a nice printer. Priced right too. Cool. ~Russ
HEY RUSS! :D
Oh man.... I'd love to see an attempt at a QSN with PEEK. lol
Oh Joel. Your inexperience with abs is surprising. It prints this well on the prusa mk2. You need to get with the program.
I’m surprised they went with glass, that’s old tech and there is so much better now.
Matterhackers build abs is quite good. I’m sure they’ll send you some.
E3d premium abs is sabic mg94 ABS, which is what stratasys has been using since the 80s and is the defacto standard in printable ABS. As for what to print in high temp stuff, it’d be cool to see some of these parts implemented in the openRC! Also maybe printing some replacement parts for the prusa in CF peek?! Talk about increased rigidity!
Looking very brown and shiny there Joel
"Not Exemplary" is a word that I'm going too use more often
Turn a prusa to a high temp 3D printer 🙏🏻
It is cool to see new stuff (I know that this has been around for a while but cool for us to be able to see) You should work with Daniel Noree to build a differential joint and transmission for the Open RC car, that should put it through a lot of stress and we could also see if it is any more wear resistant to the frictional forces in the car.
Hi Joel! You can try to print those plastic bushings from your RC car with these high temp materials to see if they can hold up.
In case anyone is wondering about the FUNny name, FUNMAT stands for FUNctional MATerials.
Yeah, they should rethink the name. While the full name is good, the shortened one might make it harder to get their foot in the door of a lot of companies.
I Have successfully printed Hobby King ABS and HIPS on an Anycubic Chiron and Matterhackers Pulse. Its under $12/kg. So lets see what that machine can do in comparison. We print Mechanical parts. HK HIPS on the Chiron (only mod is I replaced the PTFE with a capricorn) 255 on the hotend 105 on the bed. ABS about the same. If you want I can send you some of the smaller STL's for comparison purpose
Hi Joel. The build plate removal process is brutal and this will put off a lot of buyers. Can you try the process I use on my ender 3 glass mirror plate where I have had 100% success since I started 18 months ago. Rub a blue glue stick over the glass and then with a wet paper towel remove all of the glue. The prints get perfect adhesion and when the printing process is finished I let the plate cool. When I hear a loud cracking sound usually at room temp the complete print can just be lifted off or slid of the glass. I would be interested to find out if this works in this enclosure.
I love using ASA for Lazer Tag and Nerf parts. Durable (a little harder than ABS) and very strong when you get the layers to adhere well.
Stick with a PVA/glue stick for bed adhesion with your ABS and ASA prints. Use a little isopropyl alcohol to get it off the bed. Keep PETG away from the Borosilicate plates because it will never let go.
You should make some of your F1 parts out of the PEAK/Carbon Fiber and/or Polycarbonate before you send it back.
So, can it print pewter miniatures using ROHS solder as the filament? Maybe something zinc/lead instead?
Fun fact if u play at the half-speed setting everyone sounds like they had too many adult beverages.
I couldn't see much difference between the hot ends - are there subtle differences, big ones I just missed, or are they identical? It's a good idea not to mix plastics that melt in different ranges so that's my guess...
from what i can tell from dissembling it many times is its an E3D hotend.
Pores of the glass close up when cool!!!!
Very cool! I do have to ask though......what to do in geometries when supported is needed when printing high temp materials. I do have access to a Fortus 450 at work and their breakaway support for ULTEM is godsend
If you were to print ULTEM in this machine and need supported areas what is the solution (short of devising your own support system in SolidWorks?)
4:14 My immediate thought was, "Oh *that's* what the bottle of acetone's for!"
Go Funmat Go. A great review for a Reasonable price printer. Looks like a nice little printer.
Why not try run zinc alloy through it? It’s available in 1.75mm wire and melts slightly below 450’C.
For a good ABS you can try Sunlu filaments.
Hi Joel, How about using the Peek to print a tool that you can keep using long after the printer is gone. Perhaps a mallet or something.
I want to see the strength test prints with the engineering materials
Would like to see an ABS comparison between this and something like the UP Box.
Hey Joel, As I was in the hardware store this week trying to fix a plumbing problem. I saw the PVC pipes. Can you print PVC with this beast? if so. Can you print a plumbing fitting? and could you plumbers glue it to a standard PVC pipe?
Could you use a heat gun under the build plate to help loosen the print? It would help with the removal.
ABS = Slow cool. you pulled it out before it reached room temp core wise
Gota cool it slooow :) or it cracks
You should do a test comparing strength test comparing abs being printed on this vs a standard printer and compare conventional materials to these special materials
I would like to know if this printer can cope with TPI (polyimide). Also, that bed looks like it could be a real pain trying to remove something delicate.
You could print your own pei sheets for your other printers!
Joel what do you use for the wood on the wall behind you?
Trying to figure out why this machine doesn't have a removable flex plate.
I want to see it printing PEEK without warping. Normaly you would need up to 180°C in the Buildchamber to print this Stuff properly.
Ask Rob from VM for the Shabri bottle opener. It's insanely strong and magnificently does not bend caps! Also designed for this machine. If you ask nicely I'll put your logo on it!
is it possible to print like that without any supports in between the robot's legs, under the arms, and under the head jaws?
That's what I could imagine it should've been . . sorry, a newbie over here . .
Make something from CF PEEK, like the Platform Jack and then check how much weight it can handle. It's a crazy material, and so requires a crazy experiment.
I lucked out and happen to live in the same city as 3dxTech. They have damn good PLA. And the walk-in discount is nice. Lol
And this is where magigoo and such are great as release agent as well as bed adhesion..
I need to know how you do that glove trick! :p
I found out recently that black ABS is definitely hygroscopic. I built a spool sized oven that sits on top of my Mendel90 to keep it at 50C to dry it out.
are you going to re-print some of the RC parts in the engineering grade materials?
The temperature at the surface of the Sun is about 10,000 Fahrenheit (5,600 Celsius). The temperature rises from the surface of the Sun inward towards the very hot center of the Sun where it reaches about 27,000,000 Fahrenheit (15,000,000 Celsius).
finally a good answer, thanks for sharing!!!