Excellent tutorial ; older cyclists will have learned this by experience. The metal thing,as you call it! is for abrading CHALK onto the finished patch an tube to prevent adhesion to inner tyre. Thanks.
I do 2 things a bit differently (at least for my town bike) .. First I inflate the inner tube with the valve still in the rim. So there is no accidental flipping. Yes you are screwed when the hole is so close to the valve, but that never happened to me the last 50 years ;-) Second, I inflate the tire a bit before putting on the patch. That way there is less of a stretch going on with the patch when the tire is fully inflated. Hasn't failed me yet. I also remove the corners of the patch (less chance of it getting loose)
Good suggestions. But I lead bicycle touring groups (people use their own bikes) and I see tube failures close to the valve stem all the time. Often they're sudden blow outs. It's a classic weak spot.
I use the head of a disposable razor, to shave off the seam ridges. I remove the razor handle from the head and carry it in the patch kit. It's like a little block plane. In the old days the patches had to be heated with a little iron and matches.
Thank You. Videos like this really deliver in the moment of need, when you HAVE to fix your bike fast, because of time constraints and the bike store is closed for the weekend.
when I repair tubes at home i clean the affected area with alcohol -the one i use to clean my discs- after sanding to clean from whatever it has. And after pasting the patch i hammer it carefully with the co2 tank over anything that doesn't hurt the tube, like a flat rock or the floor, and when I'm on the wild, I always carry a few turns of duct tape around a co2 tank, in case I'm not sure I removed what punctured my tire, i put a couple bits in the inner face of the tire, to prevent that object -frequently a horn-, to puncture the patch. Hope this is usefull to someone.
I used to get flats near or on the valve. I solved the problem by cutting out a 20mm square of old inner tube rubber, stabbing hole in it, then sliding it on to the valve stem right to the bottom. The extra rubber protects the tube from irregular rim holes or any small sharp particles that creep in.
Another fine video! Glueless patches are great for a fast fix on the road but even the best aren't durable. If it's a slow leak pump your tube up a bit first so it's the same size as when its inside the tire before putting on the glueless patch. Even high quality glueless patches like Park's don't stretch and shrink well, and so peal off when the tube shrinks and expands as you change it later.
Mystery flats like that are usually due to dirt that enters the tire through the valve hole. The dirt gets trapped under the tube near the valve and chews up through the tube.
I like the metal rasp piece, I’ve been using them since the early 90s. I think it’s faster and doesn’t load up like the sandpaper. Most of the new patches are junk. The self adhesive type always fail, and the rubber ones are super thick and don’t move with the tire. I’m going back to innertube patches. New kit will be vulcanizing cement, metal rasp and innertube patches.
Very interesting. I am no expert but i'd say you could use a lot less glue, I usually throw on just enough to cover the area, wipe it so it's uniform and dries quickly , throw the patch on , press it down well and air it up. Always works for me.
I think the reason why the previous patches didn't work for you is cause you need to air the inner tube up a bit, patch it up, let dry patch dry completely, then let some air out before putting inner tube back into tire, then the rim and so on and so forth. Just a thought.
Yes! me too. It works well on small holes so long as the glue is not the super low viscosity type which penetrates the rubber and makes it as stiff as a board.
I use all sorts of regular patches, never had problems and they held up for a LONG time. Good to know I can do it like this regardless. I do put the patches on when the tire is inflated.
To share - after I stick the patch onto the tube using tire glue, I use a f-clamp to clamp tight the patch onto the tube overnight. It worked.The patch still hold after many many rides.
Just tried this method last night. Seems like its much better than standard patches. Didn't degrees... fingers crossed... The tyre held presure overnight.
Rozpuszczalnik ekstrakcyjny (AKA benzyna ekstrakcyjna) is slightly greasy. I wouldn't recommend it for cleaning the inner tube before applying glue and patch patching. IPA is a better solution. You can also use soapy water...
3M cubitron sandpaper gets the tube smooth fast - brake cleaner gets shut of contaminants. On "O" ring repair kits, you use super-glue to join the "O" ring - they're rubber, like inner tubes. Super-glue sticks them. So maybe it will stick inner-tubes too? :-) With activator.
If the hole was at the base of the valve stem or ripped off like my $60 tractor tube. I simply cut old valve stem, about 1/2" dia. Now with an old inner tube, my case motorcycle tube, cut 2" dia around motorcycle threaded valve, both sides prepped and glued. Never discard those valve stem sections😊
I saw people use things like sawdust, cooking flour, and dryer lint on thr excess glue around their patches to keep it from sticking where it's not wanted. I thought you might like to know.
You are extremely right, tube patch is a waste of money since nothing really works. Best advise is to replace with a new tube or you can buy a tube vulcanizing machine , about $65 and you can fix the patch work and guaranteed works. Also the machine will pay off after and can use it over and over again.
The metal scratchy thing used to be for scraping chalk (which was part of the kit) over the glued area to prevent the mend sticking to the inner surface of the tyre. It is certainly useless for roughening the surface of the inner tube. I saw one video which used it to spread the glue ...
I think this is a great idea, I can't wait to TRY this method!!! Well, yes, I can wait, cause who wants a flat right. I think this is way Better than those cheap patches, as they would seem to stretch perfectly, and once done just sprinkle a bit of baby powder inside tyre and your good to go! Thx bud, guess I will go and get a larger tube of contact glue for further fixes...
@@GabrieLight yeah, at first I was pretty much very surprised about baby power. But asked a very experienced rider/racer which inner tube is light but that would still hold some quality to it. He mentioned the Specialized turbo tubes... And when you open the box up you will find a small plastic bag and a tube covered in baby power!!!!! I can say this, the installation is easier than a normal dry tube that sticks to wrong places. From now on I only use Specialized turbo tubes and the Tubolito 38g tubes which are excellent. Note; thicker heavier tubes will be more puncture proof that's a given. But now after using Tubolito Road tubes, for a year now and not one flat makes me think that sure they are expensive but very much worth it! Plus you can get a small Tubolito patch kit in case you do puncture. All in all, it's a personal preference as is the rest of things to do with cycling, it's whatever works best for you, and the terrain you will be riding on. Take care, and safe riding.
Used to do this all the time as a child. Not fool proof but worked most the time on the MTB. Used to bug me I'd always have lots of left over glue from a repair kit, plus back in the day I couldn't find cheap separate patches for sale like nowadays. Wouldn't trust it on anything higher pressure! Recommend Rema patches and the Park Tools Super patches are a better glueless patch than Topeak ones (tried both).
I cut a maximum 2"x2" square of duct tape and used a hole-punch in the center. I place this tightly around the valve stem, my hole punch being smaller than the stem diameter. I have had inner tubes bust at the valve area as well, and I think it is because the tube has strange conditions at the valve. The hole in the rim is made to fit a variety of valve stems and it usually too large. Inner tube manufacturers know this and so put a rigid plate behind the valve. I think this plate, not flexing causes the rubber to stretch against it and can even act like a pump, holding a greater pressure than the rest of the tire. It can do that because of the maybe less than 1mm gap between the stem and the rim provides no support. These ruptures (not punctures) usually do not exceed 3mm and thus I rest my case. I believe that the piece of duct tape acts like rim tape or tire to prevent a valve stem blow-out. The valve stem is the weakest pneumatic part of the tire, if you overinflate this is where it always blows. I haven't tried overinflation with the duct tape and I'll admit that if you overinflate, it would be better to replace a tube than a tire in most circumstances. Maybe I'll try it and make my own video?
Some tube manufacturers make the tubes super thin on both sides of the valve stem. So yea, you are not going to find any sort of cause/ sharp edge in the rim, you just have a tube with a weak spot.
Man for great results u need to scratch with sand paper a bit longer to thin patch and very important thing u must cut edges with scissors on 45° if u understand me how to do and this will be great patch be sure this will work100 percent
What kind of glue is best (other than those sold specifically for bikes)? Barge Cement? Rubber cement? Other? Some dollar stores in the US sell a variety of glues for a dollar, in much larger tubes, and some of them probably work well. Contact cement?
tried loads of patches over the years never had a problem clean the tube just wipe with whatever available T shirt etc then score with sand paper or the metal apply glue rub in leave to dry 30 seconds press on patch for 10 seconds if there's chalk use sand paper to apply to excess glue around the patch worked every time for me
I had the same problem with my MAVIC Cross Trail 26er with Presta valve !!! - I even sanded the Hole with Dremel tool and still Leaked at the Valve , was running 60 psi on flat road Sold the Wheelset Now running Ringle Flea and Easton EA70 XC no problems
Back in the 70's we would light the glue on fire after we put it on the tube, just long enough to heat it up real good. Then blow it out and apply the patch immediately. They always held up until we outgrew or wrecked the bike, but back then everything was made better. Everything these days is junk!
Those Topeak are only for emergencys, so yo don't need to carry glue, it states you need to patch properly at home, in other words works as adverticed.
Trust me man its better than patches from store,i bought patches and they are easy to peel off and im startet to create patches from inner tube and this stand as long ass tube
Been patching repairing bikes as hobby and father of 3 children. But im struggling 2 days with a tire puncture thats growing after a patch applied, its just on a split and keeps growing after i patch it and pump it up. İt drives me crazy!!
If thin rubber is good for patching why wouldn't bike companies that sell patch kits include that rubber instead of patches? I've always wondered why they would patch with a material that doesn't stretch like what it is patching.
I love the color of your bike. Question, how do you keep your glue from drying up? Coz usually for me, once opened, glue dries up in a few weeks to about a couple months after just one use.
Hi. Keeping the tube well closed is not enough to prevent the glue from drying. I am kind of an expert at this because when I was a child, I used to work with my father making costume jewelry. This implied very often gluing rhinestones with pretty much the same kind of glue. Well, the secret is to take out the *all* the air from inside the tube. You achieve this by pressing tightly from the back of the tube all the way to the front. By the time you see glue exiting in the front, that means you have expelled all the air from the inside of tube. A good method to do this is to press the back tip of the tube with a pair of pliers and pressing firmly down move the pliers to the front. Think of this as if you were using a roller and you were pressing dough to make a pizza. Then you roll the flattened part of the tube onto itself to the front, to make sure that the glue at the front does not have a chance to go back again. Trust me, if you do this properly, the unused glue can last you even for a couple of years
Doesn't work all the time. The patch needs to be of thiner inner tube, so it could strech. Aaaand, standart patches, 40 psc cost like 2 euros, with glue.
Hey, so I just got two 700x23/32 48 mm Presta Valve Inner Tube delivered and to check that it was not punctured, I pumpued the air into it without installing in the tire and it inflated like a checken leg from on of the side and then exploted from there. Is that normal, or was the tube not good? I checked the second one, it's inflating like the first one with a checken leg on a side and then I stopped because I might be able to return it. Please help me if you know.
Some glueless patches are better than others. Park glueless patches are supposedly among the best. I use the Park patch kits with the glue, though. They have worked well.
I believe contact glue would be the glue to get, I will be getting a larger tube of it to have around, this idea of using an ultra lite tube is perfect, way better than using those cheap patch kits, the patch tube will stretch perfectly with inner tube
Not so. They're meant to be used as a quick fix on the road and for that they work great. Inflate the tube a little before putting one on. Glueless patches don't shrink and expand, and so they slough off the tube when you deflate and inflate the tube again. So when you next take out the tube expect to replace the glueless patch with a regular one.
It's simply not worth it. The pre-glued patches are currently the best and more practical option for a tube repair. They do not require glue , they do not require to wait for the glue to dry before sticking the patch, they do not require to cut the patch and to sand it together with the tube. Last but not least, it's generally quite hard to find a highly reliable glue. If you want to repair tubes, if you want to be light during your rides, simply buy a set of pre-glued patches, put it in your backpack and forget. No additional tools required.
Once I realized I'm spending my time seeking small punctures in MTB tires. And that's the time I'd prefer to spend riding, not servicing and patching. Ever since then I use tubes with hermetic or tubeless setup for my MTB.
I tried this and both patches had air coming out of the sides. I sanded and cleaned the areas with alcohol, let it dry completely. Cut the tube, sanded and cleaned it, let it dry. Applied rubber cement glue to the tube and waited til it was sticky, then i put some rubber cement on the outside of the tube-patch and clamped it overnight. Tested the tube in water and it was ok. Installed it, went for a ride, parked the bike and when i got back to the bike - flat tire. Got home checked the patches and sure enough both of them leaked. I don't know what i did wrong. When i pumped air when i got home to see how it reacted, i did see a big air bubbles under the patch form where there were none before.
How dare you insult this mans devout ignorance! It takes years of dedicated disregard to be at his level. Check yo self before you wreck yo self homie!
@@GNU_Linux_for_good That, what you have there, is a machine dependent on us treating it as such. Joy is a destination she can loyally carry us to, but starved of intimacy, she'll gladly give us a flat.
Excellent tutorial ; older cyclists will have learned this by experience. The metal thing,as you call it! is for abrading CHALK onto the finished patch an tube to prevent adhesion to inner tyre. Thanks.
Cheese grater?
Well that makes more sense than what the instructions tell you to do on a patch kit hahaha, tells you to rough up the tube with the microplaner lol
Waste of a step imo. Just let it dry before putting the tube back into the tyre.
Sand your patches before you cut them, it'll give you a larger space to work with and makes it just a bit less tedious.
i know I'm kinda randomly asking but do anybody know a good site to watch newly released series online?
@Houston Lochlan Flixportal :)
@Melvin Rowan Thank you, signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) I appreciate it !!
@Houston Lochlan no problem :)
letting the glue dry at least overnight would be a better tip
I do 2 things a bit differently (at least for my town bike) .. First I inflate the inner tube with the valve still in the rim. So there is no accidental flipping. Yes you are screwed when the hole is so close to the valve, but that never happened to me the last 50 years ;-) Second, I inflate the tire a bit before putting on the patch. That way there is less of a stretch going on with the patch when the tire is fully inflated. Hasn't failed me yet. I also remove the corners of the patch (less chance of it getting loose)
Good suggestions. But I lead bicycle touring groups (people use their own bikes) and I see tube failures close to the valve stem all the time. Often they're sudden blow outs. It's a classic weak spot.
...so that can be of use at home, but has no use on the road, right? Since you said "wait to the next day to pump it to full"?
@@dugldoothat always happens if tyre pressure is insufficient. Try running 1 bar extra pressure and the valves will not be the weak spot
These are my second favorite types of video from Czech Republic
I use the head of a disposable razor, to shave off the seam ridges.
I remove the razor handle from the head and carry it in the patch kit.
It's like a little block plane.
In the old days the patches had to be heated with a little iron and matches.
The razor blade is a great idea
Thank You.
Videos like this really deliver in the moment of need, when you HAVE to fix your bike fast, because of time constraints and the bike store is closed for the weekend.
when I repair tubes at home i clean the affected area with alcohol -the one i use to clean my discs- after sanding to clean from whatever it has. And after pasting the patch i hammer it carefully with the co2 tank over anything that doesn't hurt the tube, like a flat rock or the floor, and when I'm on the wild, I always carry a few turns of duct tape around a co2 tank, in case I'm not sure I removed what punctured my tire, i put a couple bits in the inner face of the tire, to prevent that object -frequently a horn-, to puncture the patch. Hope this is usefull to someone.
the classic ones with red zigzag edge hold very well... i had tubes with over 40 patches no problems =)
I used to get flats near or on the valve. I solved the problem by cutting out a 20mm square of old inner tube rubber, stabbing hole in it, then sliding it on to the valve stem right to the bottom. The extra rubber protects the tube from irregular rim holes or any small sharp particles that creep in.
Another fine video! Glueless patches are great for a fast fix on the road but even the best aren't durable. If it's a slow leak pump your tube up a bit first so it's the same size as when its inside the tire before putting on the glueless patch. Even high quality glueless patches like Park's don't stretch and shrink well, and so peal off when the tube shrinks and expands as you change it later.
Mystery flats like that are usually due to dirt that enters the tire through the valve hole. The dirt gets trapped under the tube near the valve and chews up through the tube.
I like the metal rasp piece, I’ve been using them since the early 90s. I think it’s faster and doesn’t load up like the sandpaper. Most of the new patches are junk. The self adhesive type always fail, and the rubber ones are super thick and don’t move with the tire. I’m going back to innertube patches. New kit will be vulcanizing cement, metal rasp and innertube patches.
"Flat tire, on the turbo trainer..." omg lolll HAHAHAHAHA.
Very interesting. I am no expert but i'd say you could use a lot less glue, I usually throw on just enough to cover the area, wipe it so it's uniform and dries quickly , throw the patch on , press it down well and air it up. Always works for me.
What I found critical for a successful patching is not the patch,but the quality and freshness of the glue
Excellent tutorial!!For 2 days I am fighting with ebay patches,crap!
Insurance patch...junk😢
I think the reason why the previous patches didn't work for you is cause you need to air the inner tube up a bit, patch it up, let dry patch dry completely, then let some air out before putting inner tube back into tire, then the rim and so on and so forth. Just a thought.
For years I just use few drops of super glue alone to patch small punctures on my tubes. Works well for me.
Yes! me too. It works well on small holes so long as the glue is not the super low viscosity type which penetrates the rubber and makes it as stiff as a board.
@@nicksutton2964 you're right. It can be a permanent fix as long as the glue adheres well and doesn't develop cracks. 👍
A few drops sounds like a lot. It seems as though less than one drop would do it. (?)
Yep one drop is more than enough, what I mean when I say few drops is few coats of glue in form of very small drops. Sorry for confusion.
@@Handler4071 Thanks for clarifying.
Great demonstration! Thanks!
thanks.. I now need to buy only the glue which is less than $1 in my country, Ghana. I just tried and boom it worked.
I use all sorts of regular patches, never had problems and they held up for a LONG time. Good to know I can do it like this regardless.
I do put the patches on when the tire is inflated.
To share - after I stick the patch onto the tube using tire glue, I use a f-clamp to clamp tight the patch onto the tube overnight. It worked.The patch still hold after many many rides.
Mark the valve position on your tyres using a coloured posca ,,then easier to match the hole in the tube to the tyre
Al E Or just match tyre logos with the valve.
You mean: vulcaniser (not glue). Thank you for the useful tips.
You can also use paper and superglue
Just tried this method last night. Seems like its much better than standard patches. Didn't degrees... fingers crossed... The tyre held presure overnight.
Rozpuszczalnik ekstrakcyjny (AKA benzyna ekstrakcyjna) is slightly greasy. I wouldn't recommend it for cleaning the inner tube before applying glue and patch patching. IPA is a better solution. You can also use soapy water...
3M cubitron sandpaper gets the tube smooth fast - brake cleaner gets shut of contaminants. On "O" ring repair kits, you use super-glue to join the "O" ring - they're rubber, like inner tubes. Super-glue sticks them. So maybe it will stick inner-tubes too? :-) With activator.
If the hole was at the base of the valve stem or ripped off like my $60 tractor tube. I simply cut old valve stem, about 1/2" dia. Now with an old inner tube, my case motorcycle tube, cut 2" dia around motorcycle threaded valve, both sides prepped and glued. Never discard those valve stem sections😊
I saw people use things like sawdust, cooking flour, and dryer lint on thr excess glue around their patches to keep it from sticking where it's not wanted. I thought you might like to know.
Gore tex works perfect
You are extremely right, tube patch is a waste of money since nothing really works. Best advise is to replace with a new tube or you can buy a tube vulcanizing machine , about $65 and you can fix the patch work and guaranteed works. Also the machine will pay off after and can use it over and over again.
Can i get a link to that tube vulcanizing machine?
Just go to EBay.com. Search for vulcanizing machine. Good luck and hope it will solve the flat tire problem.
The patches and kits work for me. When they have failed it was my fault for not having them perfectly flat against the tube.
The metal scratchy thing used to be for scraping chalk (which was part of the kit) over the glued area to prevent the mend sticking to the inner surface of the tyre. It is certainly useless for roughening the surface of the inner tube. I saw one video which used it to spread the glue ...
I think this is a great idea, I can't wait to TRY this method!!! Well, yes, I can wait, cause who wants a flat right.
I think this is way Better than those cheap patches, as they would seem to stretch perfectly, and once done just sprinkle a bit of baby powder inside tyre and your good to go!
Thx bud, guess I will go and get a larger tube of contact glue for further fixes...
But don't you think that putting baby powder will make surfaces a bit loose and that would affect the valve area?!
@@GabrieLight yeah, at first I was pretty much very surprised about baby power. But asked a very experienced rider/racer which inner tube is light but that would still hold some quality to it. He mentioned the Specialized turbo tubes...
And when you open the box up you will find a small plastic bag and a tube covered in baby power!!!!!
I can say this, the installation is easier than a normal dry tube that sticks to wrong places.
From now on I only use Specialized turbo tubes and the Tubolito 38g tubes which are excellent.
Note; thicker heavier tubes will be more puncture proof that's a given. But now after using Tubolito Road tubes, for a year now and not one flat makes me think that sure they are expensive but very much worth it! Plus you can get a small Tubolito patch kit in case you do puncture.
All in all, it's a personal preference as is the rest of things to do with cycling, it's whatever works best for you, and the terrain you will be riding on.
Take care, and safe riding.
@@leftymadrid
Well, thanks for suggestions, you too stay safe!
Have you tried repairing inner tubes with silicone caulking or Shoe Goo?(solvent based adhesive).
Used to do this all the time as a child. Not fool proof but worked most the time on the MTB. Used to bug me I'd always have lots of left over glue from a repair kit, plus back in the day I couldn't find cheap separate patches for sale like nowadays. Wouldn't trust it on anything higher pressure! Recommend Rema patches and the Park Tools Super patches are a better glueless patch than Topeak ones (tried both).
I cut a maximum 2"x2" square of duct tape and used a hole-punch in the center. I place this tightly around the valve stem, my hole punch being smaller than the stem diameter. I have had inner tubes bust at the valve area as well, and I think it is because the tube has strange conditions at the valve. The hole in the rim is made to fit a variety of valve stems and it usually too large. Inner tube manufacturers know this and so put a rigid plate behind the valve. I think this plate, not flexing causes the rubber to stretch against it and can even act like a pump, holding a greater pressure than the rest of the tire. It can do that because of the maybe less than 1mm gap between the stem and the rim provides no support. These ruptures (not punctures) usually do not exceed 3mm and thus I rest my case. I believe that the piece of duct tape acts like rim tape or tire to prevent a valve stem blow-out. The valve stem is the weakest pneumatic part of the tire, if you overinflate this is where it always blows. I haven't tried overinflation with the duct tape and I'll admit that if you overinflate, it would be better to replace a tube than a tire in most circumstances. Maybe I'll try it and make my own video?
#
Brilliant, thanks 👍
I have the same problem with my bike. I just put super glue on it and it works perfectly.
Some tube manufacturers make the tubes super thin on both sides of the valve stem. So yea, you are not going to find any sort of cause/ sharp edge in the rim, you just have a tube with a weak spot.
Will give a try, I am heavy rider and stickers dont work
You can also clean both surfaces some gasoline and a towel and let it dry for preparing
Nice work! I have tried this and had mixed results. Maybe my patch was too thick.
Man for great results u need to scratch with sand paper a bit longer to thin patch and very important thing u must cut edges with scissors on 45° if u understand me how to do and this will be great patch be sure this will work100 percent
ruclips.net/video/vPE7Ah0lMQ4/видео.html
What kind of glue is best (other than those sold specifically for bikes)?
Barge Cement?
Rubber cement?
Other?
Some dollar stores in the US sell a variety of glues for a dollar, in much larger tubes, and some of them probably work well. Contact cement?
tried loads of patches over the years never had a problem clean the tube just wipe with whatever available T shirt etc then score with sand paper or the metal apply glue rub in leave to dry 30 seconds press on patch for 10 seconds if there's chalk use sand paper to apply to excess glue around the patch worked every time for me
i use the cheapest made in china patch kit...never had a problem
I had the same problem with my MAVIC Cross Trail 26er with Presta valve !!!
- I even sanded the Hole with Dremel tool and still Leaked at the Valve , was running 60 psi on flat road
Sold the Wheelset Now running Ringle Flea and Easton EA70 XC no problems
thanks a million!!!
Back in the 70's we would light the glue on fire after we put it on the tube, just long enough to heat it up real good. Then blow it out and apply the patch immediately. They always held up until we outgrew or wrecked the bike, but back then everything was made better. Everything these days is junk!
Hacks for life.
Try the simson brand patch kit its good quality greath glue and patch material
Nice video I guess we are going to use the same foot work as our French wine maker on our patch?
Those Topeak are only for emergencys, so yo don't need to carry glue, it states you need to patch properly at home, in other words works as adverticed.
Trust me man its better than patches from store,i bought patches and they are easy to peel off and im startet to create patches from inner tube and this stand as long ass tube
Will using a 26x2.10 inner tube Cause pinch flats with a tyre for 26x2.125?
Been patching repairing bikes as hobby and father of 3 children. But im struggling 2 days with a tire puncture thats growing after a patch applied, its just on a split and keeps growing after i patch it and pump it up. İt drives me crazy!!
Buttonhole the ends of the split, fold the split, cut a chunk out with scissors, a small triangle hole at each end will stop the split growing
What are you using for a degreaser?
How long does this patch last?
What roughness of sandpaper should we be using?
If thin rubber is good for patching why wouldn't bike companies that sell patch kits include that rubber instead of patches? I've always wondered why they would patch with a material that doesn't stretch like what it is patching.
awesome!
Great stuff and advice , no glue is ready before 24 - 36 hrs. this will you a lot of aggravation..Thanxs...from Canada, nice bike...
get ATV/motocross inner tube patches.........cost like $20 but they work
Powerful!
I love the color of your bike. Question, how do you keep your glue from drying up? Coz usually for me, once opened, glue dries up in a few weeks to about a couple months after just one use.
Make sure there is no air in the tube and put the cap on _tight!_ Mine usually last until they are nearly empty.
Hi. Keeping the tube well closed is not enough to prevent the glue from drying. I am kind of an expert at this because when I was a child, I used to work with my father making costume jewelry. This implied very often gluing rhinestones with pretty much the same kind of glue. Well, the secret is to take out the *all* the air from inside the tube. You achieve this by pressing tightly from the back of the tube all the way to the front. By the time you see glue exiting in the front, that means you have expelled all the air from the inside of tube. A good method to do this is to press the back tip of the tube with a pair of pliers and pressing firmly down move the pliers to the front. Think of this as if you were using a roller and you were pressing dough to make a pizza. Then you roll the flattened part of the tube onto itself to the front, to make sure that the glue at the front does not have a chance to go back again. Trust me, if you do this properly, the unused glue can last you even for a couple of years
Excellent 👌
Doesn't work all the time. The patch needs to be of thiner inner tube, so it could strech. Aaaand, standart patches, 40 psc cost like 2 euros, with glue.
Ab glue will do the job or not?
Nice 1 buddy ..
Does this work
I use those dollar store sticker, glueless patches on bmx bikes at about 80psi. Holds up to the abuse oddly enough
Do they say on the packaging that they are for bikes, or are they those multi-purpose ones?
This video makes me feel thorny...🥴
OK so what? You still need the glue, where do you get it? What type glue is it?
Will super glue work?
Maybe i misted it .but what kind of glue are u useing??
What are your opinions on the Triban RC500 or RC520
You don't need to remember where your inner tube was sitting if you take a reference from the valve hole 😏
No valve in tire.
Can i try electric tape?
What's the maximum PSI for your tyre?
Steel Wool Works
Hey, so I just got two 700x23/32 48 mm Presta Valve Inner Tube delivered and to check that it was not punctured, I pumpued the air into it without installing in the tire and it inflated like a checken leg from on of the side and then exploted from there. Is that normal, or was the tube not good? I checked the second one, it's inflating like the first one with a checken leg on a side and then I stopped because I might be able to return it. Please help me if you know.
Park tool patches work better I’ve found
Some glueless patches are better than others. Park glueless patches are supposedly among the best.
I use the Park patch kits with the glue, though. They have worked well.
If the hole is 1 cm in diameter, can it be patched?
Are patched inner tubes safe for a race?
Please answer anyone asap, race is tom.
Yes
How milimiter thick is your tire?
If you liked this you might like the RUclips episode from RJ the Bike Guy called "Fix A Flat Tire With Flex Tape? Will It Work?"
The streachy stickers u said didnt have glue u half to put ur own glue on!
What if you added green slime into the tube. Green slime and glue does not adhere to each other.
I never had a patch work on a green slime tube. Ever.
Only branded inner tubes should be used.
I bought several Specialized tubes. Every one failed with a seam leak, like Denny's here. So you're not safe with some brands.
What type of glue?
I have used Xtra-Seal vulcanizing cement with good results. I think the Rema TipTop patch kits and glue are the best otherwise.
I believe contact glue would be the glue to get, I will be getting a larger tube of it to have around, this idea of using an ultra lite tube is perfect, way better than using those cheap patch kits, the patch tube will stretch perfectly with inner tube
Sticky glue 👍💪
Actually it's rubber cement
Anyone know why an airless tire for a fixed gear bike wouldnt work on a non-fixed gear bike?
Is it needed to put glue on the patch too?
I would suggest that
Glueless patches are garbage!
Not so. They're meant to be used as a quick fix on the road and for that they work great. Inflate the tube a little before putting one on. Glueless patches don't shrink and expand, and so they slough off the tube when you deflate and inflate the tube again. So when you next take out the tube expect to replace the glueless patch with a regular one.
It's simply not worth it. The pre-glued patches are currently the best and more practical option for a tube repair. They do not require glue , they do not require to wait for the glue to dry before sticking the patch, they do not require to cut the patch and to sand it together with the tube. Last but not least, it's generally quite hard to find a highly reliable glue. If you want to repair tubes, if you want to be light during your rides, simply buy a set of pre-glued patches, put it in your backpack and forget. No additional tools required.
Once I realized I'm spending my time seeking small punctures in MTB tires. And that's the time I'd prefer to spend riding, not servicing and patching.
Ever since then I use tubes with hermetic or tubeless setup for my MTB.
I tried this and both patches had air coming out of the sides. I sanded and cleaned the areas with alcohol, let it dry completely. Cut the tube, sanded and cleaned it, let it dry. Applied rubber cement glue to the tube and waited til it was sticky, then i put some rubber cement on the outside of the tube-patch and clamped it overnight. Tested the tube in water and it was ok. Installed it, went for a ride, parked the bike and when i got back to the bike - flat tire. Got home checked the patches and sure enough both of them leaked. I don't know what i did wrong. When i pumped air when i got home to see how it reacted, i did see a big air bubbles under the patch form where there were none before.
maybe this should be longer??? huh?
"A glue" .....ok so i guess white elmers glue will work fine according to you 🤷
Bogus thumbnail. "No More Patches" actually means "How to Make and use your Own Patches"
OMG 12 minutes for this 3 second content. Simply say "use a piece of inner tube instead proper patch" :D btw i like your channel and attitude
Hmm. I think there is more to it; esp. applying the glue to the tube and the patch. And part of it is about doing thorough work.
Exactly. Some people just like to hear themselves talk.
@@SL-pg4dh And some curmudgeons like to be critical of even the best presentations
I want to learn not listen to your opinions or deductions
02:36 You mean the *burr*
How dare you insult this mans devout ignorance! It takes years of dedicated disregard to be at his level. Check yo self before you wreck yo self homie!
@@leephillips4476 I'm as red as a tomato, now _(and a little ashamed, may I say..)_
@@GNU_Linux_for_good That, what you have there, is a machine dependent on us treating it as such. Joy is a destination she can loyally carry us to, but starved of intimacy, she'll gladly give us a flat.