Can I Make The Best Cooling Fan Better With This Add On?
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 7 ноя 2024
- The NH-A12x25 is one of the best PC cooling fans on the market, and other than its color it looks pretty awesome as well. However, just because its one of the best, does that mean its as good as it can be. After my review of the Fuma 2 from Scythe I decided I would take what I learned and try to create a stator for the A12x25. The Stator will remove the rotational airflow created by the spinning blades reducing turbulence and resulting in a more stabe uniform airflow. However, does all this mean improved temps, I sure hope so but lets find out.
Grab some A12x25 fans
amzn.to/2LBbrfu
Want to get into 3D printing, I would recommend the one I use any day.
amzn.to/2PVuTsB 
Наука
I don't think it would help much on an open-air test bench, but perhaps in a case, it would have a positive effect. Something about pushing that hot air from the heatsink out of the back, versus throwing it around inside the case. Anyway, test your stuff in more of a real-world scenario (like in a case), not on an open-air bench. Please.
I always say, channeling air in and out of a case is a factor in cooling. So many cases these days have a mass of fans pushing and pulling air in no particular order, creating noise and doing very little more than recycling hot air. Even power supplies equipped with fan temperature speed control leaving your stuffy case warm before kicking in are a shitty thing. Don't matter how many LED lights and fancy cable management you employ in your case designs, it is still junk to me. And I also did the CPU fan channel once with a old AMD Athlon processor and did observe a noticeable difference in temperatures. I would still be using it, but I keep upgrading to newer and higher tdp processors, and making new air channeling is not an easy task for every new build. Oh, and Noctua is AWESOME!
@@pixels303at-odysee9 Best answer I can give to this is, it matters to a point. Look at the PCO-11 Dynamic, most testing shows that it works best with three fans pulling from the rear chamber and then exhausting out the top. that's two separate 90 degree turns yet it flows as well as most straight through cases, eventually you hit the point of brute force. Fans both pushing and pulling air will direct it and despite any poor design in the case, eventually they will leave no place for hot air to recirculate. At the point most cases are, trying to direct air yourself isn't going to have any impactful effect.
@@Ephem13 mine has two intake on front, one 90mm on the drive bays cooling my hard drives and one 120mm cooling the pci-e slots, and then three exhaust on the rear, two 120mm and one 90mm fan. Basically creating a straight flow from front to rear. I voided the warranty on my PSU by taking it apart and tied the fan power to +12V rail to help cool my case. I use Noctua cooler on my processor, and it blows downward toward my motherboard, which circulates air, but I find it cools off my RAM and chipset. Even so, the Noctua is 22c cooler than the stock cooler at full load. I run mine with 18 hard drives and a old w3870 Xeon, and it heats my room. Thinking about removing eight drives and putting them in another lower power machine so I can run them 24/7 and use this rig only as a workstation and shut it off when not in use. My case dates back to 1996, tall 12 X 5.25" bay workstation made with thick steel. I have handles and wheels on mine as it probably weighs 75lbs as it stands loaded with everything. I'd upgrade to extended ATX case, but nothing is big enough to fit all these hard drives.
@@pixels303at-odysee9 nzxts cable management is complete trash standard routing is fine they just dont know what they are doing really over rated brand
Put them on a the front air intake fans on a case. See if that makes a difference. Love the wacky stuff you do on this channel. Keep it up.
Straightening airflow should not matter for that heatsink since it has a closed top and sides, effectively doing the straightening itself. The stator could maybe have an effect if used inside a case on the intake fan to channel airflow directly to the cpu tower. I'd like to see that heatsink on the fog machine as well though, could provide some interesting results.
Such an underrated channel. I would have thought you had 500k + subs! Keep up the great work.
He's gonna explode soon
+1 for the RX7 profile picture
Rafee ;)
Wish i could invest now!
I feel like this would work wonders on front panel intakes on a case with restrictive glass.
it wouldn't
if anything it would make it harder for the fan
What does the glass have to do with the radial dispersion of air?
"If it ain't broke, fix it till it is."
Words to live by
My sentiments exactly!
Excellent stators for front intake case fans, test temps inside case, they will worth all your effort!
Dude, you are quickly becoming one of my favorite youtubers. You keep it unique and interesting. Keep up the good work!
I always love your videos because you try something unique and whether it’s going to work or not. But it’s always different from all the other PC tech youtubers.
I'm glad you like it because it's fun trying this out
silverstone has a time machine. they've seen your video today and brought the concept back ten years!
jokes aside, this is still interesting!
*a i r p e n e t r a t o r*
I like the fog demonstrations. Fancy looking.
Dude you're killing it. I think this application would be more beneficial in a case fan situation where you want to move air through case via the intake fans on the front.
Great idea, and keep up the good work! Kudos for fabricating the stators. You have to test this idea on intake fans in an enclosed case, although I don't know if it would work any better. This idea doesn't make much sense slapped on a fan on a cooler. Turbulent air flows have greater ability to cool components than laminar flows, and in an enclosed case, the walls prevent the turbulent flow you showed without the stator from escaping all over the place. A properly sized exhaust fan will create enough low pressure (relative to other areas of the case) to draw all the turbulent flow in one direction.
I like that you are giving the 3D printer a workout...
It might not be less air flow raising the temps but the fact that you are creating laminar airflow with the stators and laminar airflow cools much les effectively than turbulent flow. It’s actually very likely you are moving more air through the cooler but boundary layers are forming on the fins because of the laminar flow. Bouncer layers basically insulate the cooler instead of transferring heat away with the air passing through.
I would like to see the fog test with a tower style heatsink attached to the fan.
Great video!
From the looks things, the air flow straightener may benefit case intake fans where air can be directed to GPUs or tower coolers.
Also, have you had a chance to check out Silverstone Air Penetrator series fans? They claim to have straitened airflow too.
Dude your videos are sick!!! i dont get bored at all or find myself skipping ahead....keep up the good work!
Something similar has already been on the market for some time. You don't need that big of a shroud to straighten the airflow. Check Lepa Vortex or SilverStone AirPenetrator series fans that are designed to have as much straight airflow with as low resistance possible. I use Lepa Vortex fans on my 60mm thick radiator and they work really well with pushing air through dense stack of fins without being obnoxiously loud.
I think what you want is octagon fan grill pattern. i used "Spectre Pro 23030 Fan grille with Imperial Cog" on thingiverse by SupraGuy. and modified it accordingly. i had to use it to put a Thermaltake 200mm fan on a coolermaster Case. coolermaster doesnt use normal 200mm fan mounts (which are not standard btw) so i had to convert it using that. it worked okay, but it could be made better for my use.
Cool video, man! I love that you're contiously putting out creative videos and simply testing hypotheses 😎
they are a lot of funs, if you have any good ideas make sure to let me know.
I think shrouds will be the best way forward. As i suggested in a previous comment, 3D printing a shroud that goes from the front case fan to the air cooler stack and out through the back exhaust case fan, with another fan at the cooler may work. It will definitely keep the case cooler, as all the heat from the CPU is exhausted through the rear of the case. However, this may lead to less cooling of the VRM's, RAM etc
"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is" 😍
Cool of you to basically 3d print a 'silverstone air penetrator' fan mod, could you get one and compare it your modded noctua maybe?
It's a great idea!
Try measuring temps inside a case with stators on all fans and without them. I think there might be a surprise
Id test this in a case.... maybe one on the intake fan as well to get "straight" air into the stacks and the second one "the one on the cooler" shoots it toward the exhaust fan..... or maybe no exhaust fan will be needed. More stuff in the way does mean less but "better" flow, may work better in a case..... but if you can make it more efficient you may get rid of the temp penalty. Thinking of porting and polishing cylinder heads. Few ideas below
thinner blades, different blade design with a taper toward the "hub"
taper the outer frame before air goes through - say from mating with the fan at 120mm to like 130mm, 140mm (keeping it practical) making up some displacement of the blades
make the hub smaller or make the hub small as you can on one side effectively making it into a cone
get rid of hub and put a ring "hollow hub" toward the center and either blades through it or nothing
or just go nuts and do it all at once....lol
Turbulent flow is better at heat exchange(with air you probably won't make the flow laminar with ease, which is good).
Eliminating rotation is only good if you can effectively use the more directional flow (still turbulent) at your heat exchange. That is only useful if you're pushing air from far away from your heat exchanger, since the finned surface will already create a more directional flow, so anything you put in it for altering the flow will only create more pressure drop and hinder the flow speed and heat exchange capability. If you use another fan with your printed thingy, but mounted away from the cooler, but pushing directional cold air at the fan+cooler you might see some improved temperatures if you compare it to just another plain fan mounted, specially in a more open set up (not in a case and in a open test bench like you have).
Wow that was a great video! I watch almost all of your videos and I like to learn more about fans. :)
Almost hummmmmmmmmmmm :-)
Love your experimentations with computer fans, please continue this way ! Would love to see tests of a 3D printed 92mm to 120mm adaptor on a SFF CPU cooler like Cryorig C7 or Noctua NH-L9i :)
For sure a shroud that encompasses the fan enclosure and covers the slight gap between the edges of the fanblades and the enclosure as some air will take the path of least resistance.. so by blocking some of those gaps should hopefully translate to more air going forward and not escaping out of the edges and gaps..
Seems to be the perfect solution if you want to use a case fan on your desk to cool.... well... yourself. I have 2 case fans mounted above my monitor for that exact reason, but the airflow towards my face could be better..... Now all i need is a 3d printer ;D
Noctua called. They want you for a job interview.
You should really test static air pressure differences on these as well.
That's fan dependant
Of course it is, but it would still be neat to see. For example, he obviously lost net airflow, which we can see from his results, but perhaps one of his stator designs would be better on a densely designed radiator due to an increase in static pressure.
In other words, he should do far more testing before he writes the design off as a failure.
@@whistlinturbo I am guessing you never took science in school, you can not create energy out of nothing, sound familiar? If you had a brain you would realize that doing what you said will just waste more energy and slow the roation of the fan thus it would reduce its staid pressure as its very rpm dependant, I could go on for minutes explaining why your a dumbass and how NO OTHER PERSON/COMPANY IN THE WORLD DOES THIS BECASUE ITS STUPID!
I am bassicly a mechanical engineer in solidworks, so take it as you will
Wow, thank you for making me realize how superior and smart you are over the internet. It's always great when a try hard knocks me down a peg or two and squarely back to reality. You're just so amazing.
Other than that, I'll just share this link of a practical applications test (albeit a rather crude and rudimentary one) that shows that a stator can indeed increase static pressure. Maybe this one won't due to the design, but we won't know 'til he tries it. ruclips.net/video/0TzJNzlkrOU/видео.html
@@whistlinturbo its called tough love snowflake,
I did say you could video chat me so I can explain how this stuff works,
Now if you put or common sense thinking caps and read the description he says "minimizing the encumbrance" which mean reducing the impediment, and by adding that he is clearly increasing it, ever tried to breathe through your shirt ya same thing here, also this was not air tight and he was holding it with his hand, that was clearly trickery if you noticed, I need to know all the dependent and indepent variables such as voltage and resistance and amperage(very simple stuff). And how the hell is wasting energy and heating up the air a practical application😂, who the he'll raised you? Did they forget to teach you logic😂, your not going to be an engineer thats for sure,
I am so screw off
The reason fans are made to not blow directly is to disperse the air around the case to prevent "dead zones" where not much air ends up flowing through.
Great vid.
FYI server fans have air "strainers" built in to the fans. On my gaming rig I only use one Nidec 12" fan to extract for the whole pc Through a h80v2 120mm AIO. At full fan speed it removes 180w TDP 9f heat from the CPU if needed and removes all the heat of the 1080. It is also capable of replacing all the air in the case once every second. I tried more fans but it just disturbs the airflow. Silence is not the machines strong point though.
Yeah you should definitely do a test putting the 20 blade design on the intake fans of a closed case and see how different the temps are, this could make a difference
Actually all that smoke means something, even if it doesn’t enhance CPU performance... that is because I don’t try to use CPU fans to cool a CPU ;)
For me this is perfect, I try to blow fresh air over multiple beds of microgreens. Airflow reduces mould and diseases immensely! This was the perfect video 👍
I think simply placing a cylinder tube around the fan, in certain scenarios can prove a better all-around solution, again, in certain cases because, if you got the space, it reduces the air stopped by the fan compared to this solution.
I have an idea for a crazy cooling project.
Using the principle of evaporation and spray some water on the fins of an air cooler to make the cooler "sweat"
maybe you can find a way to automate the "sweating"
Good Joob, your analyzes are always amazing.
Short and sweet, nice idea, but yea, redirecting material slows it down. If you used two fans using twice the current to run them, in opposite rotations, you may get 10-20% additional air flow and a straight air flow. Personally, pulling air rather than pushing air with air channeling are a better choice.
Heya definitely check out Silverstone's AP series fans. They've been adding a spiral fan grill to their fans for a long long time (Raven RV02 days... the AP181) claiming exactly what you've demonstrated in the video: straightened air flow. See if you like them!
So I just got a Noctua NF-F12 fan. This fan actually got "flow straightener" part installed, called "focussed flow"
I have 2 ideas:
- counterblades with wing profile (for low pressure after this thing)
- a lots of long tubes (same effect that uses for laminars fountains)
With the fan right up to the fin stack, there isn't room for rotating airflow.
One other possible test, a similar thickness open spacer, it might run cooler by blending out the dead spot in front of the hub, or it may be worse if the choppy turbulent air straight of the fan actually cools better.
that might be very useful on case intake fans to keep a smooth airflow through the case
haha best line ever. "If it ain't broke...fix it till it is''
Dude this is ideal for CASE FANS. Straight airflow for intake fans helps a lot.
Also did the noise change? In theory the camber should help alleviate the noise of air crashing into the heatsink fins, though a minuscule sound.
If i understood you correctly, you say the reason you get a bad result is increase in impedance, so the air pressure is reduced and you get less airflow through a restrictive fin stack of the cooler.
Now i remember, there was this one guy, SgaboLab, who designed a fan attachment, which is also a stationary blade set, that would allegedly increase static air pressure (obviously at the cost of airflow) which if run into a restriction, could actually increase resulting airflow. I'm not sure, i never got quite arsed myself to test, and i don't know whether there's anything particular with his blade design, but fundamentally it looks suspiciously similar. I mean it stands to reason that when you have a Noctua fan made for PC coolers with this fin given spacing, by all reason it's already perfectly optimised to provide maximum airflow against the particular type of coolers, but what if you had a fan that is more airflowy and less static-pressury?
For your next test, you should get some Silverstone Air Penetrator fans... They have had this directional fan thing on their fans since the dawn of time and used to use them on my PC cases but they never came out with PWM or varients with LEDs (if not both) so they got tossed into my fan graveyard.
The models you need to look for are Silverstone AP121. AP122, AP123, AP124, AP141, AP142
They now have RGB PWM fans with the same built in channeling for air flow but Ive been running corsair ML fans since they first came out.
Since Silverstone isnt as prominent as they used to be back in the years 00-13' maybe they would like the free PR you are offering and will send you some stuff out for free?
I think this kind of module might be well suited as case fans in order to brong direct fresh air volume to specific zones of the case (GPU / CPU / Motherboard) might want to try it out ! Good job on this one nontheless
Love your 3d printing projects. Making me want a printer haha
well worth it i would say
See how the NH-U12A fin stacks are pretty much sealed off on the sides, so air is forced to go through the cooler (instead of being able to escape out the sides)
*This sealed off design, I think.. is why running two fans in a push+pull on it doesn't make much difference (if any at all) compared to just the one fan... same as running a push+pull setup on most radiators, the extra noise/cost isn't worth the minimal gains.
**Personally I chucked my "extra" fan on the exhaust vent of the case.
Could this stator make a difference on a open fin stack style air cooler? (think dark rock 4 etc) Or could the same be achieved by blocking off the sides of a fin stack?
Would you be able to try different air coolers onto the smoke machine.. just to see what happens to the air post fin stack
Forget the CPU heatsink, see if there's any benefit when case fans are utilizing this, particularly for front intake.
Making straight flow helps improving pc case airflow and in case components cooling, but not better cooling particularly if in your case is a heatsink. Heatsinks want to remove heat from the fins fast, making straight airflow helps but obstruction is the biggest issue. Circulating larger air mass will help heat transfer. Trying to move air fast but trapping it in the same "cloud" around your heatsink is bad.
Yub, that was my thought as well. For a case fan blowing the air straight to the cpu or graphics card (and maybe even push it further out of the case again) it might have a benefit.
That might great for a fan blowing directly on a component like RAM. I have my RAM directly cooled and can feel a lot of the air escaping so perhaps concentrating the flow may make increase cooling.
less air flow is not the only issue here.. "straight" air flow is bad for removing heat. turbulent air will remove heat better since it is constantly "swapping" the air touching the heated surface. with straight airflow you will get "dead air" at the surface (aka meaning that the same air is touching it from the front to the back) it also causes less pressure on the surface (more pressure on surface = better heat transfer) i highly expect that this is the effect that is causing the higher temps rather than the lower airflow. sooo. tbh i didnt really expect this to lower temps. now, with the example of this being positioned in the front of the case (bottom slot) aimed at gpu would likely cause lower gpu temps since it would be able to "shoot" the air deeper into the case where the gpu could use it better. so try that one out. since the air would be making a 90 deg turn to enter gpu it would nullify the "dead air" issue i described above.
Oooh also you should consider doing some kind of shroud that goes underneath a standard dual or triple fan GPU that channels the air out the back, like the blower style does. Just something simple to get that air out of the other PCI slots, and not back into the case. Just a thought!
I think there may be a use for this in other applications like "case fans." Directly behind my front fan is my GPU to have the air forced directly at it would help alot. Your test was in open air but once you get the air bouncing all around the inside of the case it slows down tremendously (at least It makes sence that it would to me) maybe they aren't the most efficient as far as air flow but the help they might be getting the air were its needed may be a big help. After that the fan on the "GPU or CPU" can do there job. maybe I'm totally wrong but it just seems to me there has to be some use for control of the airflow in the case itself. I do have a idea maybe you can test. Though. There are "ducts" that can be placed in front of airflow or water flow that can increase the airflow I believe it is the concept the Dyson zero blade fan works (that really has blade you just don't see them.) On. Its is why they can use a small fan to move so much air. Again I could be wrong.
They used to sell something like this for your car. It said it would straighten out the air and give you more power and save you gas. It wasn’t on the market for long.
I remember those they went in your intake they where called tornados or something
Something at could attach directly to a radiator would be nice. You could eliminate leakage and get more air into the radiator.
Just by chance are you still using the filament that came with your printer... that stuff is usually complete crap. I use hatchbox it isn't too expensive and made a HUGE difference in my print quality.
I pay about $10 per killogram (shipping included in the US), only ever had like 1 defective roll from a variety of brands (there was some that I used that was $70+ per Kg, made in the US, and that stuff was borderline $hit, biggest pain in the @$$ role I’ve ever used! It was working in the end, but just terribly hard to setup for some reason). I’d say 95% of the time, it’s user incompetence, because if you can get grass trimmer line to 3d print, then you know how to operate your machine! I see so many incompetent monkeys spending a lot on expensive roles and still having crap results when I’m printing decent size 3 inch diameter and .75 inch thick double herringbone gears in 7 minutes or less at 150-200mm/s using cheap filaments or making water-tight prints for my liquid cooling blocks (for tablet computer overclocking/Raspberri-Pi/robotics motor drivers). I’d actually recommend using the cheapest rolls you can get, because it teaches you better about tuning since sometimes the temp range is slightly less, which actually makes it easier to find the optimal values (like for stringing/retracts/temps/flow speeds like slower isn’t better in most cases), obviously no filament will overcome bed calibration or bed temps for adhesion (or surface finish like bare glass vs washable glue stick coated vs painters tape coated), but using a variety of cheap ones will quickly let you know the quirks of things and your machine.
Although, I’ve found the cheaper rolls to do much better in mine (I’m not sure what you pay for in expensive rolls), I typically use 0.5mm nozzles since they are nearly impossible to clog, so maybe that hides some of the minor inconsistencies, but measuring with calipers it’s typically within 5% variation (+-2.5% from nominal), just measure it, type in the value (2.85 or 3.05mm filament) and away you go! Learning initial setup is key.
@@jakegarrett8109 ya but there are a few questions that follow an answer like that. Variables such as what printer your using, Bowden or direct feed, hotend quality, PTFE tube quality, filament drive quality... all of them can directly impact performance and HATCHBOX is $20-25 off Amazon so it isn't exactly expensive when you dont want a 40 or 50 hour print to fail. Also if all your printing are geometric objects for the most part you won't see as much difference than if your printing detailed models.
Cable Select I typically print structural things (gears, airfoil structure, hinges, fluid pumps, mounting brackets, motor mounts, adaptors, mechanical things), to me, they are RPM (rapid prototype
machines) and not desk toys to make cheap dollar tree $hit decorations (just buy the decoration, much cheaper).
Mine was direct drive 1.75, but I converted it to Bowden 3mm, the hot end assembly cost $8, the Bowden tube I use is sourced from Lowe’s plumbing section (like $5 for 15-25 ft roll), and I use only the finest of high grade $1 nozzles, haha! Machine would probably be beaten by most $200 printers for miniature figurine toys (I built mine like 7 years ago? It was right after using big expensive engineering RPM machines and was like “that’s pretty cool, it can make stuff my angle grinder and drill press can’t!”, so I built a Prusa i3 and modified lots of it in the name of speed, lol, yeah, I’m not waiting hours for a water pump to print, get that sucker done in 20 minutes so I can test and make 5 major design iterations in a day! Put that R for rapid back in prototype machine!).
It’s also fairy rare to have a mess up once it is set up correctly, and what am I making, a solid 8 inch by 8 inch by 8 inch 15 pound plastic block to take 40 hours or something? Goodness, that’s a long time! Switch your nozzles out man! I have a 1.3 mm nozzle for fast large prints like that, not only is it 18.6x the area of a 0.3mm nozzle, but now you’ll use 0.8mm layer instead of 0.2, so it’s roughly ~74.5x faster at printing (yes, what takes me 1 minute, would take a normal printer over an hour, that 40 hour job you say would be finished in about 32 minutes...). Use the right tool for the job! Just like CNC milking, don’t use a hair thick drill but just because you can! So typically, I’m using 0.5mm as it works really well for small/medium gears (like 130 gear teeth on a 2-3 inch diameter gear), and mesh excellently together as long as you CAD them correctly (ugh... people using freaken triangles thinking that will work... there is a reason ASME has standardized gear tooth profiles)
So, I have printed with direct drive, direct gear reduced drive, and Bowden (including really remote from 4 ft away), and I’ve done small’ish nozzle (0.2mm but it took ages, and only used for miniature airplane souvineers for my engineering teammates), because 0.5 works for what I do, really strong mechanically useful pieces.
As for cost =/quality that I often claim (since you mentioned hottend), I’ve just seen people waste like $80 on a hottend, and it was inferior design to mine (it looked like part of it was a flat out copy of mine, but did several stupid things wrong and ultimately sucked because of it). So I don’t count COST of things so much as how well they accomplish the task, and some of my best tools happen to be the cheapest, so I usually say “a good hottend” and not “expensive”, because just like the filament/hottend/any other tool, cost=/quality or capabilities.
Cable Select oh you asked about filament drive quality, I made mine on a 4 jaw lathe with 20mm stainless steal bar and knurled with some random diamond carbide tool (I note 4 jaw because it’s not self centering like 3 jaw, so mine looks ugly as can be! Not perfectly center, but don’t look at it, haha!). The extruded assembly is a modified version of the cyborg gear extruder (remember those gears I mentioned the print time on? You can find them on Thingiverse where I posted them, brilliantly named like 7.6666 gear reduction for cyborg gear extruder, much improved). So besides the bearings and motor, the extruded is all 3d printed or made on a lathe. It’s not beautiful, but it works well (you’ll explode 150 psi hoses and absolutely destroy the pneumatic 6mm push in connectors way before the thing slips, it’s ugly, but that large diameter cog applies pressure across a larger section of the filament and much less likely to slip or grind the plastic out due to distributed loading), and functionality is what counts! (For bling I’ve got LEDs everywhere shining through the acrylic and cable mesh wrap to make all the wires look tidy, and it’s always shiny and clean and well maintained with all rails with a thin film of clean oil.
Gotta go crank out some model airplane parts with it soon!
I think a shroud is also a bad idea, because your Heatsink emmits heat also above its visible parts that arent behind the fan. I think a conic airflow is much better for cooling than straight airflow. Because then the air can surround the cooler. Also i'm imagining that the air molecules get much more contact with the heatsink if the airflow isnt straight. Kinda like bouncing of the finns. With straight airflow they just pass it. But thats just my imagination, go on experimenting, its really interesting :D
The older Noctua NF-F12 had small, fixed, counter rotational blades on the hub side to focus the air flow from the fan.
I'm probably gonna do it with my case the lian li o11 case is 2 degrees above ambient but a push pull with duck work on the psu side would be great. The main goal is to reduce gpu temps. Since my 3700x is 40c degrees under load.
you should look at EDS design, they have a special designed lip to increase efficiency, also a cone on the fan to get rid of that flat surface, and maybe get better flow?
Throughout this video I found myself looking back and forth from the screen and my AIO fans.
maybe this would work better on a rad as the fin density is higher then an air cooler
@@MajorHardware I would be keen if you were to make the files available for 3D printing for the 140 mm size. I was thinking specifically about putting one on the lower fan of my AIO that is pointed directly towards the rear of my GPU.
"If it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet." - Motto of the engineer
Silverstone are already selling fans with this feature, they are called AirPenetratror (AP1**)
I think this would be excellent as case fans and not radiator fans... It would throw the hot air far from the case.
Best regards from Down here in Brazil
Hello
Are you able to create different designs with the stator blades or would changing the direction and placement of the fins have no effect on air flow?
Would you be able to use a PC case with either a glass or acrylic side panel and use non working components and test some of your ideas inside that case with the fog just to see how air flows throughout the case and around the different parts inside it? I'm very curious in seeing how air circulates inside a case normally and then see how your designs change things up inside the case in different setups. I don't think you can use fog with a working PC due to the fog damaging the components, but you could still check the temps to see if your designs have a different effect inside the case.
I am enjoying watching you try out different stuff.
Hey James, since you like to tinker with 3d prints and Noctuas NH-A12x25, how about you design a shroud for a graphics card and slap at least 2 of those puppies on it ?
Another idea would be do design a printed air guide that uses the case's fans to better direct the airflow to the gpu whilst still using the stock fans on the card, addionaly maybe with some kind of guided exhaust air canal ?
Oh nice comment stick around you might like what im working on
Looks as good as SilverStone Air Penetrator fans.
I love these fan projects you are doing! Im planning on buying an air flow meter to do some test my selfe.
Its just interesting to see how different fans work and how much air they move etc. Keep these videos coming!
And maybe you should get your selfe an account on thingiverse, and you can share your designs for others to print, like my self :-D
Just created a thingiverse.com account today nothing uploaded yet but stay tuned
@@MajorHardware Nice! :-D
Vantec tornado has this already built into the frame. trying to control the airflow due to the high rpm. (4800rpm) its an old fan, dont know if you can find them anymore. but that was the height of fan cooling before heat pipes some years ago.
Maybe it would be better to compare the fan + straightener combo with the standalone fan at a lower rpm, so an even comparation could be made - it's just a matter of finding at what rpm the standalone fan produces the same cfm as the one with the straightener. This would allow you to know how much of a difference ONLY the stator can make in temps, no variables involved. Also, maybe it may work better if you use the exact same blade design of the Noctua fan, just reversed.
I tried to make a kind of that, but I resolved myself to just fo linear fins, i made two of them, one was oriented to push the flow upward, and the other one that pick air from the downside, that srtup make possible to put two fan side by side even if one of them was intake and the other one exhaust. thoses were on the side panel and feeded my two vegas 64.
I've heard that PC fan stators/nozzle vanes improve static pressure.
I believe Silverstone has some fans similar to what you designed, though nobody really talks about them. Guess they didn't do well either.
This was really cool, I wonder if this would be good for an intake fan to directly aim it at a cpu cooler. It would be hard to test though maybe I'll try it anyway
if it lined up i wonder if you could not use a fan on the CPU cooler just the front intake
What about a push/pull setup on the tower? Push, obviously through the stator, however, pull to regain some of that lost airflow.
You should do some research into a velocity stack, they are used on the intake side of turbo chargers and might work for this application
A shroud around with the fan pulling the air through would probably work best. Needs to be a high static air fan. If you need any 3D printer help, let me know. I built 2 of my own from scratch. (my youtube channel is small, but I do have experience) - inventimark.
To get the best out of this... err... idea... you should use 2 fans with one spinning the opposite direction. IOW, counter rotating fans. This way you get smooth airflow with out the obstruction and in fact a lot more static pressure. They do exist, but are usually server type stuff that need a lot of amps and are super loud. I have yet to find a "normal" PC fan where I can buy 2 fans that are identical except that they spins opposite to each other. Doing just a quick google image search you will quickly notice that the vast majority of fans, regardless of manufacturer, all spin the same direction...
Yup, just do these adapters on a typical 2x120 front intake :D
Silverstone's Air Penetrator fans incorporate the same air channeling design.
4:43 I love that motto
i cant take credit someone commented that a while back and i thought it was funny as well
This didn't test if straighter air flow improves cooling, only if adding a stator does. You should re-run this but instead of using the same RPM between them, use an anemometer and adjust RPM till they all have the same. This will show if straight air is better.
Try making 3 20 blade attachments and use it for the intake on the front of a case and see if that helps with cooling in a case instead of a test bench
You should add a fan shroud here as well. Same design but no blades and use that on your control.
good idea
Would it work better for case fans? I could see the utility in pushing air more directly through the case, front to back, especially for pushing hot air away from the GPU.
Aerodynamics and pc hardware? Sir, you have my attention and a new subscriber :)
how about putting it in front of the fan as opposed to behind it? what does it do with the air flow and temps then?
or how about printing fan blades of the same design as the stater and replace the blades on a noctua fan with the ones you designed. see how all of that works?
at the very least it would be interesting to see and find out.
I like where you're going on this. Perhaps a larger frame and fan so the larger controlled air flow would encompass the fin stack instead of just match it.
You should try this with one of the "blowie-matron" fans from Linus. See if it can straighten that air flow
HAHA i loved that video
I wonder if putting one of these on a lower front intake 120/140mm fan would help push air under your graphics card if its mounted on the motherboard. I would be very interested to see if it helped graphics card temps by creating a "wind tunnel" effect because I know by feeling my side panel that's back lower part of my case gets really hot compared to everywhere else in the case.
I think your stators would be more useful for case intake fans. Imagine one of these on a bottom mounted intake with the output going straight towards your GPU.
Good video and your stator idea will work but you need to use a different style fan. That fan is meant to create pressure to push through a cooler or hear sink vs a case fan that just puts out a lot of cfm. So your fan blades are designed closely to how the stator is and that will kill flow, you should run the same test with a case style fan because that fan would work much better with your stator and I believe your test results would come out different.
Try take one of those Noctua fans apart and make the blades spin the opposite direction behind another noctua fan.
I would love to see these stators on a radiator to see if they increase the pressure across the radiator fins and the fans and make any difference for with an AIO for example if you have space for push/pull but don't want the additional noise of 2 more fans?