Thanks Paul - that's good to hear. I don't usually know how much to leave in or take out but that helps me figure it out - thanks. Happy Holidays my friend 🎄
Really nice work here. I just did rockers and cab corners on my 97 Silverado extended cab over the summer. I'd never done body work or even welded, and I watched a few of your videos when I was preparing for the project. Too bad I couldn't wait, this would have helped me a lot with the hatchet job I ended up doing. Oh well, great work again!
I really appreciate your instructional videos ...... I’m doing rust repair on my 1990 c2500 extra cab Silverado and I’ve followed your videos and it is turning out great!!!! Well for a first timer great😃 Thank you Keep the great videos coming
I'm really glad to hear that and keep me updated on how your project works out. Let me know what you need the most as a first timer too - I'll be sure to do a video on the topic. :)
I love your videos Jerry. I've just started into repairing my Mx5 (Miata) with the usual rocker panel rust issues and your videos have been invaluable with common sense advice and taking the time to break down the process. This has been invaluable to people like myself who have never undertaken bodywork themselves before. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I find them really helpful.
Well done! Your skills as an autobody expert AND teacher are extremely helpful to my understanding of rocker panels (which I'd never even heard of til a couple days ago!). Trying to decide if my 2002 Rendezvous is worth more work or not. I kinda hate to lose it. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and work.
Awesome job. I can't believe how much I've learned by watching this channel. Getting ready to tackle inner and outer rockers on a 2002 Sierra. I feel halfway confident after watching 50 on your videos. #RustOnRustRookie
Thanks for the extremely helpful video. I would really like to see how you cut down the new rocker panel. And, perhaps a few words on slip-ons vs. real deal replacements.
Thanks Jeffrey - this video may help answer some ?s - ruclips.net/video/6RuoEhUZP9U/видео.html I'll look into doing a vid on slip ons - Happy New Year JW - Jerry
Thanks for this video Jerry. I've already fixed mine, but I thought you had to have a complete inner rocker (structural part?) this is on a 1978 Chevy truck. I can see how this would be better! I always enjoy your common sense methods.
I'll have to try this method on the drivers side of rocker panel, passenger side was shot, along with cab corner. I agree with you on the thinning of metal too much when trying to grind welds smooth. I worry that smoothing down welds on a butt weld will leave paper thin metal, as i have found out the hard way.
Thanks - on some real nasty rust repairs, there is just no way to grind flush and metal finish. You just can't justify the integrity of the welds if you do too much metal finishing. Thanks for the comment:)
Man, if that's a Michigan truck, that was pretty clean. My S10 was rotten inside all the way up behind the lower door hinges on both sides. But the outside looked pretty good...had no idea it was that bad until I got it apart. Wish I could post pics. lol
When I was in the US Army in the mid-1980s there was a guy my unit that was from Michigan. I think he had a 1974 Chevrolet Impala. One day he was on his way out of the parking lot and the rear axle just came up to the trunk because all the suspension collapsed it was so rusty.
so u dont have to spray any protective things on the inner side of the panel to keep the weld from rusting? and the filler goes on a bare metal, not any rustproof primers or smth?
Yes - just the way you saw it in the video. See this for more information on rust prevention afterwards: ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html Check this out too for more if interested: ruclips.net/video/JIIonJOVro4/видео.html
I love your work! Here in Michigan after 2 years no matter the make of truck all the rockers rust completely out due to all the damn salt put on our roads. It sucks bc people spend a lot of money of their trucks here and after a couple of years the bodies are junk due to rust.
In the real world you're going to blow all kinds of holes - just got to get good at welding them up. It's a real drag when it keeps getting bigger - that's when the bad words start flying.
At a place I worked, we never got replacement rockers or any other patch panel that was premade. You had to cut it out of scrap panels and form it yourself. You can either make a patch panel out of metal that comes close and make the rest with filler or use fiberglass. What ever is easier for you. Let me know if you have more ?s - Jerry
I was underneath my 1999 Toyota Solara today. Right behind the passenger front tire weather pinchweld is to jack up the car is all caved in due to rust. No American Toyota places have the what's called reinforced rocker panel. Found a place in Canada. Equivalent to $366 USD. Kind of hate to spend that kind of coin for just a 6-inch by 3-inch reinforced rocker panel. Do you have any videos on replacing rocker panels reinforcements on unibody cars?
No but it is the same as a truck. This full rocker replacement would be very similar to unibody - ruclips.net/video/U67IHaurCaM/видео.html If you don't want to weld? - ruclips.net/video/W9czvb2rFqY/видео.html
@@LakesideAutobody It looks like I'm going to have to re-watch and re-watch your videos because I called 5 auto body shops within 5 mi of my house and they all are "three weeks out". Other commenters have mentioned that the shops don't take that work in because it's not profitable and because of the risk of returns when the rust reappears.
@@michaeldunagan8268 The commenters are correct - they don't usually do rust work. They might and then quote you a super high price - so you either go away or they make ^$. They're also worried about return work too like you said :)
Your concerns are well warranted, after my 40 years of bodywork and restoration I would never leave the inner rocker off as it was designed to be in place as an OEM requirement.
@@archieanderson2945 I agree. But food for thought - it wasn't doing much for the structure when it was rusted out, like probably half the vehicles on the road are. Makes you wonder how much crash testing is done with this in mind.
I don't think enter rockers are structural on vehicles with a full frame. Now they are structural on my 1999 Toyota Solara and I believe most anybody vehicles. And of course those parts are discontinued unless you go to a Canadian Toyota place.
Awesome, great tip on not gringing the weld all the way down!.. I'm getting ready to do this type repair as good as i can on my 05 volvo. Trying it make it look real good. Pass side had a shotty repair done.. I saw some red flags when i bought the car but didnt realize it had quarter panel section welded in and a part of rocker and a different door with shitty paint worn off the edges. All their repairs failed. I l aready welded in the quarter patch, need to do the rocker and then i can get rust free matching doors off a clean part out on ebay.
do you ever see your patch panel after paint and it shrink a bit over time? or does it look straight for years to come. going to be doing the full size box panel patch. anda bit nervous. and attcking cab corners and rockers this winter first time too
It looks straight for years. Here's a follow up - ruclips.net/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/видео.html If you don't bury poor body work with tons of primer, you'll be fine :)
i have to replace my rockers/cab corners on my truck. Should i remove both rocker and cab corner at the same time then put on my rocker firtst, followed by my cab corner? @@LakesideAutobody
If the rocker slips under the cab corner, do the rocker first. Study how it was put together at the factory and go with what will make it easiest for you :)@@keva2686
I need to do repair on my passenger side rocker the videos and information were invaluable to me for painting my car and I wanted to ask is there any tool that I can use that doesn't involve welding to attach The Rocker since I can't Weld and I'm not willing to pay over $1,000 on a 2003 car
I'm just welding in a full rocker. I noticed that you didn't feel the need to plug weld the top, as the butt welds were strong enough on the small section. Are those plug welds needed on a longer piece? thx.
The panel was spot welded back into place but not in the same spots. If you are concerned about the holes being left, you can weld those up but it's unnecessary. Also if you use a spot weld cutter you won't have those holes on the panel that the rocker will be welded to. I will be using one of those cutters in a video coming up.
I've been working on my ram, on the back underside of the rockers there is some type of tape covering several oval holes, it was all starting to come off so I removed it and sprayed in Por 15, what type/brand tape should I replace this with.
Hi. How to you match the new panel without to much fuss? I always try to offer up the new part and mark before cutting out the old part.. I see it might be difficult with this part, but.. Please show us your trick. :)
Good ? and here's the best way to prevent that from happening - not weld through primer either - the mig weld process is doesn't work well with WTP - only pinch type spot welding. ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html
to get more finesse (control-ability) when grinding switch to a 90 degree die grinder, use a 2" rol-loc adapter bought at Harbor Freight around $5, then use 3M 3" 36 grit discs, I love them for this kind of work. now i see 2 things, if I did it this way, you didnt drill holes in top to do plug welds? which I would just get out the big spot welder & put in a few of those, but there is a quicker & easier way if you can get by with it? instead of drilling spot welds on top, slice it & butt weld new over top of it, BUT! use air hammer with hammer head, to slowly go back & forth to push edge down 2 passes is all I do, that makes sure when you do overlap, door wont have clearance issues, & can even do edges, but I do a steeper angle & yes a light hammer for clearance with air hammer. I eve have a rounded hammer head to get into curved spots. we do a lot of work for car lots, plus my boss has a car lot, & I put in a bunch of rockers, & he only goes back with metal, no plastic cover it up BS, but I do overlaps, and can do one quite fast.
Another idea if this area is not part of a unibody frame- spray a rust converter primer inside, then an expanding insulation foam spray to fill the entire inside. Then put your time into making a new sill plate out of stainless steel or brass or aluminum. Spray the underside with Fluid Film every fall. If it is structural, bolt or weld in a long piece of square steel or angle iron stock inside of this area, after spraying Fluid Film inside of it.
Expanding foam traps rust. Just use a non drying rust inhibitor wax on the inside. Take care though. Some provide a thick coat that dries and peels off to leave even worse rust underneath. Ask my back axle.
You can use it. It does make it a bit easier if you grind off the galvanized coating where you are going to weld. You won't have to breath the fumes either. Have a good weekend :)
Great tips as usual. Since I don’t have to take off the door and fender and bed, I will do this sooner than later. But how did you cut it to fit so well? Any tips on that? Or another video on that?
That nice you can set your welder on # 2 I can't with Chicago electric 125 flux I either Slow wire feed down and put welder on minimum out put, So I don't have fancy Dancy welder like yours
Hey Jerry! Do you have experience with a radiator core support on a Chevy Astro van?? My radiator fan is hitting its shroud...this is due to sagging of the front end at the radiator core support...the rust is causing it to collapse. Also, the area where the bushings that attach the engine craddle to the core support needs work as well. No re-pop radiator core supports are available for the first (85-94) or second (95-05) generation Astro vans. No NOS either. This will be a challenge!!!!
I don't with the Astro but I had a Ranger where the whole front clip was bouncing up and down on the frame. The core support rusted so the mounts no longer held anything. I removed the hardware, welded a plate in down there, drilled a new hole and threw and bolt and two rubber bushings in on either side - worked fine. You're going to have to engineer a way to weld that guy back together or strengthen it. Just get under there with a MIG and start welding :)
@@LakesideAutobody Wow, not bad at all, of course you are a pro so I can double or triple that time. You did such a great job on that. It looks great. Thanks for the thorough video. I've never welded but will give it a try and will practice on scrap metal of same thickness before I do the real repair.
would this not leave weak points in the panel where you have welded? the rockers/sills are part of the structural integrity of the car and now you have 2 lines running straight thru them
Rockers/Sills are structural on uni-body vehicles - this has a full frame. I welded a new piece in any way - I'm not sure if I understand what you are saying. Ask again if If you need a better answer. Jerry
If I am replacing rockers should I leave the good metal and just but weld or lap weld the new one on? Also what primer filler do you recommend? First time trying this and I have watched a ton of your videos trying to learn to restore a car I own.
Yes leave the good metal and cut out the section that's damaged by rust. There's nothing wrong with lacquer primer - sands super easy, works well, cheap, don't have to throw out the unused portion etc. Epoxy is a great sealer primer but it's not a "high build" primer and Urethane primer is good for blocking like lacquer primer but sands just a bit harder than lacquer - in my mind. All primers work great really but your going to have to find as system that works good for you. Maybe urethane primer that is DTM (direct to metal) that you don't have to first use epoxy, or lacquer primer that you can use for everything. I use Auto Body Master lacquer primer with kleen strip lacquer thinner from walmart. Let me know how it goes for you and if you have any ?s Jerry
On rigid panels like rockers, you don't have to worry. On more open areas, yes you do have to be aware and weld short sections moving from one spot to another to keep the panel cool and prevent distortion.
Are you anywhere near MA? I need my rockers restored, I’ve got a 2011 Crown Vic Interceptor, can’t find them for that year anywhere. The body’s solid, mechanically, everything, it’s just the rockers. I’d do it myself if I had a lift.
Lakeside Autobody only kind to have! You’re probably used to wearing a mask so this is easy for you! Definitely have a great weekend! Keep the metal straight!!
I'm not sure exactly what you vehicle rocker looks like but usually you have to remove the plastic and then try to recreate the rocker the way it was from the factory so you can replace the plastic trim. Here's an example of that process: ruclips.net/video/bhFLNqGE6KA/видео.html Hope that helps - ask again if not - Jerry
Rocker ($40) and primer ($50-$100), I would charge around $100 for labor - so I would say around $250 for the whole job. Depends a lot on how bad the rust is too.
At the end of the video I believe it shows the back side. There is large square openings - which will allow for maximum drainage and dryness to virtually eliminate the return of rust. You can close it in if you prefer but it's always good to drill a few little holes for drainage - water and salt will get in there no matter what so it needs to drain and dry. Hope that helps out a bit - Jerry
No but it probably can't hurt to use reinforced fillers on this type of repair. Never tried Allmetal but might do a video on that - I've often heard of it.
Good learning experience except for the welding part you definitely need to space those welds out at least 2" for heat otherwise you will warp the panel you're installing you could even use a blow gun to cool the welds off before continuing. Piling those welds on top of each other is definitely not the way to do it
On very rigid panels such as a rocker you can go ahead and weld it up w/o worrying about distortion. On larger less rigid panels like doors, fenders, quarters, etc. you're absolutely right space them out, then come back and fill in the sections while bouncing from once spot to another.
@@LakesideAutobody I was thinking the same thing but then I remembered the door frame and rocker are structural, actually part of the cab frame, and add strength to the overall structure. That said, you also cut out a good portion of the inner cab extension and drop down structure, thereby reducing strength overall in what could be a vulnerable area in the event of a crash. I’m not a pro but I don’t think this repair would pass ICAR standards. It would have made a better repair, to replace all parts and metal as needed, without cutting away and leaving structural metal out before welding things back up. As you pointed out in other videos, shooting the insides of the rockers with WD40 or the equivalent creeping rust proofing oil from the backside thru the access holes will keep it from rusting. As you know, it will run out along the lapped seams at the bottom protecting from future rust and it can be touched up as needed going forward. These trucks had no rustproofing from the factory except for the galvanized priming process and look how long they lasted. Also, it looks like the cab corners on this truck were repaired/replaced first. The correct sequence is to remove all rusted metal first, (cab corners, rockers and inner cab extensions) repair/replace the inner structures, then install the rockers, and lastly the cab corners. Once all is body finished and painted, the repair should be nearly undetectable, especially to the untrained eye. Too many leave the inside structures undone, cut up, or cobbled together, instead of doing it right. It really doesn’t take that much more to do it right. A functional repair done here but Lakeside has the ability to do it even better. 👍🏻 Thanks for your videos!
Just from looking at that strong frame under that rocker panel. It looks like American cars back then were more structurally stronger than import cars today.
The rocker panels were sealed for a reason. it is intended to keep potential exhaust gasses from leaking into the cab. This vehicle would not pass an inspection with your "Large" Drainage holes.
There's no gasses leaking into the cab - I drive it every day. If you like you can weld it up solid - no big deal or difference in work. I opened them because it will never rust out again this way. Hang a bare piece of sheet metal from a tree and it will last forever because it can drain and dry - the secret to no rust :)
I doubt you can find someone to do this job for under 500. I'm thinking upwards of 800 to do the full replacement and painting at a dealership or body shop - that is if they would even touch it. That's just a guess - I never wrote the estimates.
No drainage or drains get plugged. When that happens debris builds up and becomes a salt water sponge which rots the panel fast. This vid shows how much stuff can get trapped: ruclips.net/video/HiwVTSYFgB4/видео.html
Hopefully u can get one of these vans! So we can see how a professional such as yourself could show us how to fix this kind of problem rockers r known to b bad on these vans and could u show how to use addisve and or rivets? I don't know how to weld it would b nice 2 show us on how to do it this way 4 all of us diyers thank you sir! 4 all of your knowledge!
@@LakesideAutobody where r u located at? I'm from the Cleveland area the rust belt arrg! Cause if ur close by I would love 4 u 2 fix mine I wish I had 1/4 your talent!
Nice video and thank you! I have a question as to why do a straight bead instead of the other way you showed in your other vid about a tack weld, like the fender patch replacement.
Usually if I butt weld it's a rocker or a post (something that's hard to knock down and fill). When I butt weld I usually put the welds right next to each other (straight bead). If it is a lap welded patch panel I think you'd be fine not putting them right next to each other - they can be a little bit apart. I've never had a problem leaving a bit of space bet. welds - saves on gas too. Hope that answers your ?'s
I read your ? again. This may answer it better. I always tack the patch panel into place 1st. Then you can weld it up however you want. Sometimes you have to tack it in a bunch of spots - sometimes like that rocker you can just clamp it and go. Usually with lap welding patches you tack it in a lot of spots because you want it tight together w/ the other metal.
Loved the video! My 96 gmc upper lip is welded continuously on the back side, inside the cab. Should I cut at the bottom of the lip? Looks exactly like yours, except that lip. Thanks Bill
The 97 Chevy I just got off a guy used Gorilla tape to fix the rocker panel , it looked professional , 12 year old boy professional could have done a better job , at least he used the same color tape as the Truck is .
@@LakesideAutobody , ha ha ha ha 😂 It has already started to come off flapping in the wind , I got brand new (STEEL) rocker panels and I am getting ready to install them , I was watching your video for some pointers and techniques to install them , But I will have some tape for sale very soon if you are interested 😜👍
Wow you show you left the inner rust horizontal panel structure, not cool. Did I miss a step where you took that rust out? Or does the next guy have to fix what you covered up? Not cool.
You missed that step and why I fixed it the way I did. The reason rockers rust is because the rust chunks, leaves, debris, dirt, etc pile up inside then get soaked with salt water in the winter and rot out the panel. It's my truck so I don't want that to happen again - therefore instead of sealing it up again I welded new metal in but did not enclose it. Remember, you want panels to drain and stay dry at all cost - if debris is allowed to accumulate and moisture persists it will rot out again. This repair will never rust out again - period. Because it can drain. Have a good weekend:)
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Damn it, Lakeside. You're making me think of buying an old pickup so I can practice what you've been teaching me. Another good one, thanks.
Old pickups last forever and the parts are cheap and plentiful at the junk yards!
Jerry I like how u clearly explain and u show the steps and edit just the right amount . Great work as always !
Thanks Paul - that's good to hear. I don't usually know how much to leave in or take out but that helps me figure it out - thanks. Happy Holidays my friend 🎄
Really nice work here. I just did rockers and cab corners on my 97 Silverado extended cab over the summer. I'd never done body work or even welded, and I watched a few of your videos when I was preparing for the project. Too bad I couldn't wait, this would have helped me a lot with the hatchet job I ended up doing. Oh well, great work again!
Hey you went for it and that's what counts. Next time you'll be better at it. Happy Holidays :)
I really appreciate your instructional videos ...... I’m doing rust repair on my 1990 c2500 extra cab Silverado and I’ve followed your videos and it is turning out great!!!! Well for a first timer great😃
Thank you
Keep the great videos coming
I'm really glad to hear that and keep me updated on how your project works out. Let me know what you need the most as a first timer too - I'll be sure to do a video on the topic. :)
Sounds great I wish I knew how to upload a few pics so you could see how it look😀
@@SC-ti9cj Send them to my email - it's listed in the "About" tab on my home page - says something about email for business inquiries - Jerry
I love your videos Jerry. I've just started into repairing my Mx5 (Miata) with the usual rocker panel rust issues and your videos have been invaluable with common sense advice and taking the time to break down the process. This has been invaluable to people like myself who have never undertaken bodywork themselves before. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I find them really helpful.
Thanks so much for the support. Feel free to ask any questions that may come up.
Best video i have seen so far when repairing these.
Thanks Dodge D - have a good weekend :)
RUclips is an amazing thing
Grandma's 2002 Buick Century brought me here and I'm glad learned a lot thanks boss
subbed
You're welcome
man i love this guys videos ....all makes sense when he breaks it down
Thanks Nuke Bum - glad you enjoy them and they help - have a great weekend :)
great video! made me feel like i can do this too, whenever I get acess to a garage. subbed!
Thanks for watching my friend - thanks for the sub too :)
Well done! Your skills as an autobody expert AND teacher are extremely helpful to my understanding of rocker panels (which I'd never even heard of til a couple days ago!). Trying to decide if my 2002 Rendezvous is worth more work or not. I kinda hate to lose it. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and work.
You're welcome. I'm glad they help :)
Good work! Too many shady shops would just stuff the rust hole with bondo!
If you think this is good work you need to find a real shop
I don't believe any shop would do that and stay in business these days. Too easy to post a complaint about them online.
Awesome job. I can't believe how much I've learned by watching this channel. Getting ready to tackle inner and outer rockers on a 2002 Sierra. I feel halfway confident after watching 50 on your videos. #RustOnRustRookie
I appreciate the support Doug - let me know how it goes for you :)
Great job- on the rocker panel- learned something new- Good teacher-Thank you
You're welcome
Lakeside Autobody where do have ur shop?
You answered my question. I was thinking of doing it(that inner rocker) the same way. So you just verified what I thought. Thank you again.😁
You're welcome - have a great week ✌
Thanks for the extremely helpful video. I would really like to see how you cut down the new rocker panel. And, perhaps a few words on slip-ons vs. real deal replacements.
Thanks Jeffrey - this video may help answer some ?s - ruclips.net/video/6RuoEhUZP9U/видео.html I'll look into doing a vid on slip ons - Happy New Year JW - Jerry
Hey thanks, brotha. Good vid. You actually showed the complete rocker structure underneath. Thanks again.
You're welcome - glad you liked it. Have a great week.
Awesome work. No bull, just what it takes to make it strong and look like it was never damaged. Thanks!
You're welcome - glad you enjoyed the video - have a good weekend
Very good Job like allways. lots to learn Thank's for the time you take. To teach us.
Thanks for the kind words Mike & thanks for watching - have a good weekend :)
Thanks for this video Jerry. I've already fixed mine, but I thought you had to have a complete inner rocker (structural part?) this is on a 1978 Chevy truck. I can see how this would be better! I always enjoy your common sense methods.
You're welcome
i realize I am kinda randomly asking but do anyone know a good site to stream newly released tv shows online ?
@Rocco Marley flixportal :P
@Izaiah Brayden Thanks, I signed up and it seems to work :) I really appreciate it!!
@Rocco Marley You are welcome =)
Love those pliers at 3:42. They look just like my crescent wrench.
They say - 9AB12 WRIGHT USA on the handle. Best adjustable wrench I've ever owned by far - smooth as silk :)
LOL golden man
Great tutorial, I'm working on a 1994 Camaro V6 this will help me a lot :)
I get to the comments 1/day so feel free to ask anything on any video :)
I'll have to try this method on the drivers side of rocker panel, passenger side was shot, along with cab corner. I agree with you on the thinning of metal too much when trying to grind welds smooth. I worry that smoothing down welds on a butt weld will leave paper thin metal, as i have found out the hard way.
Thanks - on some real nasty rust repairs, there is just no way to grind flush and metal finish. You just can't justify the integrity of the welds if you do too much metal finishing. Thanks for the comment:)
Man, if that's a Michigan truck, that was pretty clean. My S10 was rotten inside all the way up behind the lower door hinges on both sides. But the outside looked pretty good...had no idea it was that bad until I got it apart. Wish I could post pics. lol
When I was in the US Army in the mid-1980s there was a guy my unit that was from Michigan. I think he had a 1974 Chevrolet Impala.
One day he was on his way out of the parking lot and the rear axle just came up to the trunk because all the suspension collapsed it was so rusty.
so u dont have to spray any protective things on the inner side of the panel to keep the weld from rusting? and the filler goes on a bare metal, not any rustproof primers or smth?
Yes - just the way you saw it in the video. See this for more information on rust prevention afterwards: ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html
Check this out too for more if interested: ruclips.net/video/JIIonJOVro4/видео.html
I'm curious why not one continuest weld as opposed to spot welds?
The heat of one continuous weld can warp or distort the metal. You also have to worry about blowing holes in the sheet metal from too much heat :)
Fantastic job, you make it look easy, thank you for the video 🙏🏻
You’re welcome 😊
Easy straightforward video Great job
Thanks Buster :)
I love your work! Here in Michigan after 2 years no matter the make of truck all the rockers rust completely out due to all the damn salt put on our roads. It sucks bc people spend a lot of money of their trucks here and after a couple of years the bodies are junk due to rust.
If you buy a new truck check out this video to prevent it from doing that. ruclips.net/video/y05dNxt-nVc/видео.html
Nikola Tesla Nothing that can’t be easily fixed.
I'm glad to see that hole at 7:16. I do the same thing and thought it was only me.
In the real world you're going to blow all kinds of holes - just got to get good at welding them up. It's a real drag when it keeps getting bigger - that's when the bad words start flying.
If I camt find rockers for my vehicle would you recommend just cutting out the rust and using fiberglass to fill in the holes?
At a place I worked, we never got replacement rockers or any other patch panel that was premade. You had to cut it out of scrap panels and form it yourself. You can either make a patch panel out of metal that comes close and make the rest with filler or use fiberglass. What ever is easier for you. Let me know if you have more ?s - Jerry
I was underneath my 1999 Toyota Solara today. Right behind the passenger front tire weather pinchweld is to jack up the car is all caved in due to rust. No American Toyota places have the what's called reinforced rocker panel.
Found a place in Canada. Equivalent to $366 USD. Kind of hate to spend that kind of coin for just a 6-inch by 3-inch reinforced rocker panel.
Do you have any videos on replacing rocker panels reinforcements on unibody cars?
No but it is the same as a truck. This full rocker replacement would be very similar to unibody - ruclips.net/video/U67IHaurCaM/видео.html If you don't want to weld? - ruclips.net/video/W9czvb2rFqY/видео.html
@@LakesideAutobody
It looks like I'm going to have to re-watch and re-watch your videos because I called 5 auto body shops within 5 mi of my house and they all are "three weeks out".
Other commenters have mentioned that the shops don't take that work in because it's not profitable and because of the risk of returns when the rust reappears.
@@michaeldunagan8268 The commenters are correct - they don't usually do rust work. They might and then quote you a super high price - so you either go away or they make ^$. They're also worried about return work too like you said :)
Really enjoy the videos. Learning a lot. Thanks!
Glad you like them - you're welcome :)
Inner rockers are normally structural so I have the same concern as claybird. But good video
I was thinking the same thing. The factory boxed that rocker for a reason.
Your concerns are well warranted, after my 40 years of bodywork and restoration I would never leave the inner rocker off as it was designed to be in place as an OEM requirement.
@@archieanderson2945 I agree. But food for thought - it wasn't doing much for the structure when it was rusted out, like probably half the vehicles on the road are. Makes you wonder how much crash testing is done with this in mind.
I don't think enter rockers are structural on vehicles with a full frame.
Now they are structural on my 1999 Toyota Solara and I believe most anybody vehicles. And of course those parts are discontinued unless you go to a Canadian Toyota place.
Awesome, great tip on not gringing the weld all the way down!.. I'm getting ready to do this type repair as good as i can on my 05 volvo. Trying it make it look real good. Pass side had a shotty repair done.. I saw some red flags when i bought the car but didnt realize it had quarter panel section welded in and a part of rocker and a different door with shitty paint worn off the edges. All their repairs failed. I l aready welded in the quarter patch, need to do the rocker and then i can get rust free matching doors off a clean part out on ebay.
Yep, grinding the welds completely flat destroys the integrity of the repair for sure.
do you ever see your patch panel after paint and it shrink a bit over time? or does it look straight for years to come. going to be doing the full size box panel patch. anda bit nervous. and attcking cab corners and rockers this winter first time too
It looks straight for years. Here's a follow up - ruclips.net/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/видео.html If you don't bury poor body work with tons of primer, you'll be fine :)
i have to replace my rockers/cab corners on my truck. Should i remove both rocker and cab corner at the same time then put on my rocker firtst, followed by my cab corner?
@@LakesideAutobody
If the rocker slips under the cab corner, do the rocker first. Study how it was put together at the factory and go with what will make it easiest for you :)@@keva2686
Yes. Remove both but study how they go together. Which ever one overlaps goes on last. Hope that makes sense :)@@keva2686
I need to do repair on my passenger side rocker the videos and information were invaluable to me for painting my car and I wanted to ask is there any tool that I can use that doesn't involve welding to attach The Rocker since I can't Weld and I'm not willing to pay over $1,000 on a 2003 car
This video may help with that - ruclips.net/video/W9czvb2rFqY/видео.html
I'm just welding in a full rocker. I noticed that you didn't feel the need to plug weld the top, as the butt welds were strong enough on the small section. Are those plug welds needed on a longer piece? thx.
I was wondering the same about the plug welds. Jerry thanks for the tips.
I ended up plug welding the top and the bottom just didn't show it on the video - just a few welds
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks
on the spot welds that you drilled out, did you spot weld them back together.
The panel was spot welded back into place but not in the same spots. If you are concerned about the holes being left, you can weld those up but it's unnecessary. Also if you use a spot weld cutter you won't have those holes on the panel that the rocker will be welded to. I will be using one of those cutters in a video coming up.
I've been working on my ram, on the back underside of the rockers there is some type of tape covering several oval holes, it was all starting to come off so I removed it and sprayed in Por 15, what type/brand tape should I replace this with.
Good question. Maybe something like this - www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Weather-Waterproof-Temperature-Resistant/dp/B07GRJ8L55
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for the response, I thought maybe there was a specific type...
This is a very nice video on explaining your work
Thanks, glad you liked it :)
Hi. How to you match the new panel without to much fuss? I always try to offer up the new part and mark before cutting out the old part.. I see it might be difficult with this part, but.. Please show us your trick. :)
I demonstrate that in this video - hope it answers your ? - if not ask again - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody You never really showed how you mark the new panel to fit the cut out area where the old one was.
Question: Wouldn’t the inside of that weld, if exposed to water at all, rust out eventually?
Good ? and here's the best way to prevent that from happening - not weld through primer either - the mig weld process is doesn't work well with WTP - only pinch type spot welding. ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html
Thanks brother looking very nice God bless you
Thank you too - God bless you too :)
to get more finesse (control-ability) when grinding switch to a 90 degree die grinder, use a 2" rol-loc adapter bought at Harbor Freight around $5, then use 3M 3" 36 grit discs, I love them for this kind of work.
now i see 2 things, if I did it this way, you didnt drill holes in top to do plug welds? which I would just get out the big spot welder & put in a few of those, but there is a quicker & easier way if you can get by with it? instead of drilling spot welds on top, slice it & butt weld new over top of it, BUT! use air hammer with hammer head, to slowly go back & forth to push edge down 2 passes is all I do, that makes sure when you do overlap, door wont have clearance issues, & can even do edges, but I do a steeper angle & yes a light hammer for clearance with air hammer. I eve have a rounded hammer head to get into curved spots.
we do a lot of work for car lots, plus my boss has a car lot, & I put in a bunch of rockers, & he only goes back with metal, no plastic cover it up BS, but I do overlaps, and can do one quite fast.
Another idea if this area is not part of a unibody frame- spray a rust converter primer inside, then an expanding insulation foam spray to fill the entire inside. Then put your time into making a new sill plate out of stainless steel or brass or aluminum. Spray the underside with Fluid Film every fall. If it is structural, bolt or weld in a long piece of square steel or angle iron stock inside of this area, after spraying Fluid Film inside of it.
Expanding foam traps rust. Just use a non drying rust inhibitor wax on the inside. Take care though. Some provide a thick coat that dries and peels off to leave even worse rust underneath. Ask my back axle.
I get galvanized in various widths from time to time. Can it be used for a rust repair, or is there some reason not to use it?
You can use it. It does make it a bit easier if you grind off the galvanized coating where you are going to weld. You won't have to breath the fumes either. Have a good weekend :)
My rockers are way worse than those. I will remove mine with a butter knife 👍😆
haha...mine are the same as well.
Mine are gone
You make that copper tube or purchase it?
That's a Miller Welding nozzle - came with the welder. You can purchase them on amazon or ebay - welding nozzle or welding cone 😊
Great tips as usual. Since I don’t have to take off the door and fender and bed, I will do this sooner than later. But how did you cut it to fit so well? Any tips on that? Or another video on that?
I did a video on that (the other side) and will have it uploaded within the next two weeks - Happy Holidays.
Lakeside Autobody wow! Great news and thanks:) happiest!
That nice you can set your welder on # 2 I can't with Chicago electric 125 flux I either Slow wire feed down and put welder on minimum out put, So I don't have fancy Dancy welder like yours
That welder can still work for you - ruclips.net/video/ic7Gwf8y4Yc/видео.html
would like to see how you measured the new rocker to fit. thanks, bill in w mi
I'll do a video on that when I do the other side - thanks for the suggestion.
bill howe your supposed to put the new panel over the old and cut both together that way all the cut lines watch up perfectly
Loving that welding....good work man
Thanks - a appreciate that :)
Great work man Love the OEM look
Thanks Car Revive :) Cool name for you channel - "Car Revive" Jerry
Hey Jerry!
Do you have experience with a radiator core support on a Chevy Astro van??
My radiator fan is hitting its shroud...this is due to sagging of the front end at the radiator core support...the rust is causing it to collapse. Also, the area where the bushings that attach the engine craddle to the core support needs work as well.
No re-pop radiator core supports are available for the first (85-94) or second (95-05) generation Astro vans. No NOS either.
This will be a challenge!!!!
I don't with the Astro but I had a Ranger where the whole front clip was bouncing up and down on the frame. The core support rusted so the mounts no longer held anything. I removed the hardware, welded a plate in down there, drilled a new hole and threw and bolt and two rubber bushings in on either side - worked fine. You're going to have to engineer a way to weld that guy back together or strengthen it. Just get under there with a MIG and start welding :)
How long does it take for each side? I want to do this but I am concerned that I may dive into it and not be able to do the repair.
Sorry about the late reply - It takes about 3-4 hours per side to get it in primer.
@@LakesideAutobody Wow, not bad at all, of course you are a pro so I can double or triple that time. You did such a great job on that. It looks great. Thanks for the thorough video. I've never welded but will give it a try and will practice on scrap metal of same thickness before I do the real repair.
@@BradySzabo Feel free to ask as many ?s as needed as you go :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you very much, I truly appreciate it.
@@BradySzabo 👍😊
What kind of welder are you using ?
Miller Millermatic 90, 110V, .023" wire, 75/25 gas This one is from the 90's but they make something similar.
would this not leave weak points in the panel where you have welded?
the rockers/sills are part of the structural integrity of the car and now you have 2 lines running straight thru them
Rockers/Sills are structural on uni-body vehicles - this has a full frame. I welded a new piece in any way - I'm not sure if I understand what you are saying. Ask again if If you need a better answer. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody ok the full frame may make the difference that would make sense
@@simcard027 Sorry about the late response - have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanx yoo too
If I am replacing rockers should I leave the good metal and just but weld or lap weld the new one on? Also what primer filler do you recommend? First time trying this and I have watched a ton of your videos trying to learn to restore a car I own.
Yes leave the good metal and cut out the section that's damaged by rust. There's nothing wrong with lacquer primer - sands super easy, works well, cheap, don't have to throw out the unused portion etc. Epoxy is a great sealer primer but it's not a "high build" primer and Urethane primer is good for blocking like lacquer primer but sands just a bit harder than lacquer - in my mind. All primers work great really but your going to have to find as system that works good for you. Maybe urethane primer that is DTM (direct to metal) that you don't have to first use epoxy, or lacquer primer that you can use for everything. I use Auto Body Master lacquer primer with kleen strip lacquer thinner from walmart. Let me know how it goes for you and if you have any ?s Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for the advice and thanks for all the videos. It really helps out us shad tree guys.
Heya good job.
I want to ask are u not afraid hot warp when i weld all that line non stop?
On rigid panels like rockers, you don't have to worry. On more open areas, yes you do have to be aware and weld short sections moving from one spot to another to keep the panel cool and prevent distortion.
How did you accurately cut the new rocker panel to fit the rough opening of old one?
You're lucky I made a video on that :) ruclips.net/video/6RuoEhUZP9U/видео.html
Nice job. That old gmc must be almost out of damage and rust to fix. What lake is that in your opening scene?
That's the east side of Lake Saint Helen, MI
Are you anywhere near MA? I need my rockers restored, I’ve got a 2011 Crown Vic Interceptor, can’t find them for that year anywhere. The body’s solid, mechanically, everything, it’s just the rockers. I’d do it myself if I had a lift.
Upper Michigan. You don't need a lift actually. I never had one while working in a body shop - just gotta crawl around on the floor :(
Beautiful work, great instructions!
Thank you - have a great week end :)
Lakeside Autobody only kind to have! You’re probably used to wearing a mask so this is easy for you! Definitely have a great weekend! Keep the metal straight!!
How do you do this on a 2006 Jeep Commander? Rusted under the plastic cover in the rocker area.
I'm not sure exactly what you vehicle rocker looks like but usually you have to remove the plastic and then try to recreate the rocker the way it was from the factory so you can replace the plastic trim. Here's an example of that process: ruclips.net/video/bhFLNqGE6KA/видео.html Hope that helps - ask again if not - Jerry
Sir what gauge is the metal you welded under the rocker panel ?
20 - 22 gauge is what I use for all hand made rust repairs. This rocker was purchased from Raybuck.com it was 18 gauge.
roughly how much would you charge for a job like that to install the panel and spray on a good primer?
Rocker ($40) and primer ($50-$100), I would charge around $100 for labor - so I would say around $250 for the whole job. Depends a lot on how bad the rust is too.
What did you end up doing with the bottom of the panel, was it just left open ?
Thanks, Steve
At the end of the video I believe it shows the back side. There is large square openings - which will allow for maximum drainage and dryness to virtually eliminate the return of rust. You can close it in if you prefer but it's always good to drill a few little holes for drainage - water and salt will get in there no matter what so it needs to drain and dry. Hope that helps out a bit - Jerry
Do you ever use AllMetal instead of filler?
No but it probably can't hurt to use reinforced fillers on this type of repair. Never tried Allmetal but might do a video on that - I've often heard of it.
@@LakesideAutobody pretty awesome stuff, use it in hot rods and rat rods a lot. Also helps w the cheap new metal theyre using on cars
@@erikdale9145 Cool - I'll check it out - thanks for the information :)
Good learning experience except for the welding part you definitely need to space those welds out at least 2" for heat otherwise you will warp the panel you're installing you could even use a blow gun to cool the welds off before continuing. Piling those welds on top of each other is definitely not the way to do it
On very rigid panels such as a rocker you can go ahead and weld it up w/o worrying about distortion. On larger less rigid panels like doors, fenders, quarters, etc. you're absolutely right space them out, then come back and fill in the sections while bouncing from once spot to another.
@@LakesideAutobody I was thinking the same thing but then I remembered the door frame and rocker are structural, actually part of the cab frame, and add strength to the overall structure. That said, you also cut out a good portion of the inner cab extension and drop down structure, thereby reducing strength overall in what could be a vulnerable area in the event of a crash. I’m not a pro but I don’t think this repair would pass ICAR standards. It would have made a better repair, to replace all parts and metal as needed, without cutting away and leaving structural metal out before welding things back up. As you pointed out in other videos, shooting the insides of the rockers with WD40 or the equivalent creeping rust proofing oil from the backside thru the access holes will keep it from rusting. As you know, it will run out along the lapped seams at the bottom protecting from future rust and it can be touched up as needed going forward. These trucks had no rustproofing from the factory except for the galvanized priming process and look how long they lasted. Also, it looks like the cab corners on this truck were repaired/replaced first. The correct sequence is to remove all rusted metal first, (cab corners, rockers and inner cab extensions) repair/replace the inner structures, then install the rockers, and lastly the cab corners. Once all is body finished and painted, the repair should be nearly undetectable, especially to the untrained eye. Too many leave the inside structures undone, cut up, or cobbled together, instead of doing it right. It really doesn’t take that much more to do it right. A functional repair done here but Lakeside has the ability to do it even better. 👍🏻 Thanks for your videos!
@@bondpit8750 Your're welcome - good information too - thanks for the input and support - Jerry
You never disappoint. Great video
I appreciate that!
Just from looking at that strong frame under that rocker panel. It looks like American cars back then were more structurally stronger than import cars today.
👍😊 - good observation Alex - have a good week - thanks for watching :)
Very nice. How long did it take.
It can be done in about 3-4 hours - maybe more if you take your time and enjoy it :)
Easy to see way this kind of work is so expensive... TIME!
Do you always wear Eye Protection glasses ?
Yes - I wear "reading/magnified" safety glasses - Pyramex Safety SG7910DRX Emerge Gray Clear 2.0
Awesome video.
We are in the process of doing the body on our 2001 Ram pkp. Learned tons from your videos.
By the way ,where are you located?
Up North Michigan - not an actual business - just make videos as I'm retired now :)
@@LakesideAutobody Cool. Over the years ive fixed many cars and trucks . Now i can do it properly.
The rocker panels were sealed for a reason. it is intended to keep potential exhaust gasses from leaking into the cab. This vehicle would not pass an inspection with your "Large" Drainage holes.
There's no gasses leaking into the cab - I drive it every day. If you like you can weld it up solid - no big deal or difference in work. I opened them because it will never rust out again this way. Hang a bare piece of sheet metal from a tree and it will last forever because it can drain and dry - the secret to no rust :)
Excellent! Thank you for sharring.
You're welcome.
whats a fair price to pay for that job?
I doubt you can find someone to do this job for under 500. I'm thinking upwards of 800 to do the full replacement and painting at a dealership or body shop - that is if they would even touch it. That's just a guess - I never wrote the estimates.
How long does it take you to do this?
Just for the installation of the rocker - about 2-3 hours - if I'm not making a video out of it :)
Beautiful work.
Thanks a lot Winston - have a great weekend :)
I wonder why these areas rust so easily?
No drainage or drains get plugged. When that happens debris builds up and becomes a salt water sponge which rots the panel fast. This vid shows how much stuff can get trapped: ruclips.net/video/HiwVTSYFgB4/видео.html
Looks good and easy. If I did it though it would still look like a road killed racoon.
I think if you took your time it would look fine :)
Can u do this on a 2006 dodge caravan?
I don't know what the rocker on one of those look like but there's never been a rocker panel that defeated me :)
Lol! That's right give it he'll kid!
Hopefully u can get one of these vans! So we can see how a professional such as yourself could show us how to fix this kind of problem rockers r known to b bad on these vans and could u show how to use addisve and or rivets? I don't know how to weld it would b nice 2 show us on how to do it this way 4 all of us diyers thank you sir! 4 all of your knowledge!
@@robertmaurer4229 I'll keep that in mind and if I come across one, I'll be sure to make a video on it.
@@LakesideAutobody where r u located at? I'm from the Cleveland area the rust belt arrg! Cause if ur close by I would love 4 u 2 fix mine I wish I had 1/4 your talent!
Nice job, you make it look easy and I know it’s not
Thank you - glad you liked it. Have a good weekend :)
What is that 22 gauge metal ?
I bought the rocker from FIxMyRust - they say that it's 22 like you said.
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you.
Nice video and thank you! I have a question as to why do a straight bead instead of the other way you showed in your other vid about a tack weld, like the fender patch replacement.
Usually if I butt weld it's a rocker or a post (something that's hard to knock down and fill). When I butt weld I usually put the welds right next to each other (straight bead). If it is a lap welded patch panel I think you'd be fine not putting them right next to each other - they can be a little bit apart. I've never had a problem leaving a bit of space bet. welds - saves on gas too. Hope that answers your ?'s
I read your ? again. This may answer it better. I always tack the patch panel into place 1st. Then you can weld it up however you want. Sometimes you have to tack it in a bunch of spots - sometimes like that rocker you can just clamp it and go. Usually with lap welding patches you tack it in a lot of spots because you want it tight together w/ the other metal.
Thanks for your great videos!
You're welcome :)
Nicely Done...Thanks.
I appreciate that Tim - have a good weekend :)
Funny looking pliers to bend that metal up with...
Awesome work! 👍🏼
Thank you! 👍
Thanks for the very useful information.
You're welcome:)
Besides video content. great guitar opening riff.
Thanks MR - have a great week :)
Très belle job
Merci :)
Loved the video! My 96 gmc upper lip is welded continuously on the back side, inside the cab. Should I cut at the bottom of the lip? Looks exactly like yours, except that lip.
Thanks Bill
where are you located?
In Michigan
The 97 Chevy I just got off a guy used
Gorilla tape to fix the rocker panel , it looked professional ,
12 year old boy professional could have done a better job , at least he used the same color tape as the Truck is .
That's great. I'll bet there is good drainage it will last quite some time :)
@@LakesideAutobody , ha ha ha ha 😂
It has already started to come off flapping in the wind ,
I got brand new (STEEL) rocker panels and I am getting ready to install them , I was watching your video for some pointers and techniques to install them ,
But I will have some tape for sale very soon if you are interested 😜👍
@@jimthomas1989 👍🛠😊- Feel free to ask anything as you go :)
Just awesome 👍
Thanks for the kind words my friend :)
Excellent information.
Wow you show you left the inner rust horizontal panel structure, not cool. Did I miss a step where you took that rust out? Or does the next guy have to fix what you covered up? Not cool.
You missed that step and why I fixed it the way I did. The reason rockers rust is because the rust chunks, leaves, debris, dirt, etc pile up inside then get soaked with salt water in the winter and rot out the panel. It's my truck so I don't want that to happen again - therefore instead of sealing it up again I welded new metal in but did not enclose it. Remember, you want panels to drain and stay dry at all cost - if debris is allowed to accumulate and moisture persists it will rot out again. This repair will never rust out again - period. Because it can drain. Have a good weekend:)