Wow. I feel dumb saying this, but that's an incredible idea. I'm not wanting to dive into realistic, but I would like a layout thats just like that with maybe a few switches. Basic for running trains but still able to stow it away. Never have I thought about a door being the base. This is great and I appreciate the video. I won't even bother with castors. The door is light weight and I can fold it up and away.
Next weeks video shows the same train set but expands it with three Kato track packs and I show how you can temporarily secure the track with glue dots.
I'm already doing the same sort of thing. But my door is a repurposed 34" steel interior door and I placed a piece of plywood on one side and edged it to make a nice table to put on pair of saw horses. My train is on t-track type modules and I have more modules than can fit on the table so I can use different layouts every time I run. the large flat surface allows for easy use.
For sure. I just needed something to easily fold up for storing the table away and I had to build the table quickly for the video, so if you have more time, building your own legs is a good way to go.
Depending on the person at the Home Store you buy the Door from, You can get Slightly Damaged Doors for Between $5 and Half the Price of a None Damaged Door... I use to work at a Home Store and Sold Many Slightly Damaged Doors for $5... We were just going to throw them away so why not make the Store Some Money.... That also means, Check Home Store Garbage's for Doors and other stuff you could use. Like Styrofoam, Slightly Warped 1x4's, 2x4's... Plywood ext, ext.....
It is kind of embarrassing that I paid full price, but I was in a big hurry to get everything for the video. I'm sure I could have found one that was blemish free on one side but dinged up on the other and gotten it for next to nothing.
I just built something similar and used 1x4s for legs. Leveling them was a bit of work with a hand plane, but once it was done the thing is rock solid.
Does foam have enough strength on its own - I mean, might it break or sag? Or would it be better with at least thin (1/4”?) plywood on the bottom side (and maybe a frame, like Steve mentioned) to give it more rigidity? I’m needing to come up with something like this, but maybe 4’ wide, for On30.
The foam is stronger than you think. You still need something from support,but you don't need to get crazy. Plus you can shape it for rivers, lakes. Stack it together for hills or mountains.
Great idea Steve. I built a hollow core door layout and glued 1x3x30" "L girders" to the bottom of the door parallel to each of the short sides. Next I attached 2x2 legs with 1x2 horizontal and diagonal braces. The L girders gave a solid platform to secure the legs, which I attached using machine screws and wing nuts for easy removal. They were not as flexible as the ones you built in this video, but they were cheap and easy to build. Thanks for the great content.
An ikea desktop is basically the same, also hollow core and some legs. Why did you not go for that option? Also, this type of table (hollow core) is not going to be very strong, it will not carry a lot of weight without bending. So keep that in mind.
An ikea desktop is a great idea, however we sadly don't have one out here. I could of course have one shipped, but then there is shipping fees and time to wait which I didn't have to get the video out on time.
Seems ok when running trains on it so far with the wheels locked. It is less wobbly than my 2x4 n scale layout was when I had that on wheels at any rate, though of course less stable than when I had the big steel legs on. Not using caster wheels will of course make it steadier.
@@JeffDM if the casters are tight fitting then they won’t have a weak spot. What he could do is drill a hole in the legs for a thin bolt and lock washer to make a X between the legs going from each side. That would fix the problem. Could build it out of conduit and some bolts. I get it’s harder to setup than just the legs but I can see a train hitting the cement.
@@N_scale My point was casters swivel and the wheels turn. Making them hard to do either is an option but the more you do that, the more it defeats the purpose of putting them on. Each of the legs do have a latching diagonal brace going to the table surface.
Wow. I feel dumb saying this, but that's an incredible idea. I'm not wanting to dive into realistic, but I would like a layout thats just like that with maybe a few switches. Basic for running trains but still able to stow it away. Never have I thought about a door being the base. This is great and I appreciate the video. I won't even bother with castors. The door is light weight and I can fold it up and away.
Next weeks video shows the same train set but expands it with three Kato track packs and I show how you can temporarily secure the track with glue dots.
I'm already doing the same sort of thing. But my door is a repurposed 34" steel interior door and I placed a piece of plywood on one side and edged it to make a nice table to put on pair of saw horses. My train is on t-track type modules and I have more modules than can fit on the table so I can use different layouts every time I run. the large flat surface allows for easy use.
offset the casters 2” and they can fold inside of each other and it wont be noticeable.
Rolling table for N scale trains.
Good job my friend.
Nice job Steve. I do think the legs could have been made for much less money and less wobble.
For sure. I just needed something to easily fold up for storing the table away and I had to build the table quickly for the video, so if you have more time, building your own legs is a good way to go.
@@StevesTrains I agree and understand the use.
The paint finixh came out quite good in the video. What kind of paint did you use?
Just a basic Behr paint in a statin finish from Home Depot that I’ve been using on a few projects lately.
Correction, this one was actually a satin finish Rustoleum brand paint.
Depending on the person at the Home Store you buy the Door from, You can get Slightly Damaged Doors for Between $5 and Half the Price of a None Damaged Door... I use to work at a Home Store and Sold Many Slightly Damaged Doors for $5... We were just going to throw them away so why not make the Store Some Money....
That also means, Check Home Store Garbage's for Doors and other stuff you could use. Like Styrofoam, Slightly Warped 1x4's, 2x4's... Plywood ext, ext.....
It is kind of embarrassing that I paid full price, but I was in a big hurry to get everything for the video. I'm sure I could have found one that was blemish free on one side but dinged up on the other and gotten it for next to nothing.
Great idea! Or even one from a remodel, on a local free-stuff group.
I just built something similar and used 1x4s for legs. Leveling them was a bit of work with a hand plane, but once it was done the thing is rock solid.
Nice Steve!
Hey just sent you a message in your site, let me know what you think.
Saved an old door but it isn’t as wide only 29inches. Doh. Can’t fit the set up on it. UK viewer.
Super job 🎥🚂👍.
Greetings Gert
Build that next layout on 2 inch Styrofoam. Strong, lightweight, easy to use.
Basically what I will do, multiple layers of foam with a wood frame attached to the outside to protect it.
Does foam have enough strength on its own - I mean, might it break or sag? Or would it be better with at least thin (1/4”?) plywood on the bottom side (and maybe a frame, like Steve mentioned) to give it more rigidity? I’m needing to come up with something like this, but maybe 4’ wide, for On30.
The foam is stronger than you think. You still need something from support,but you don't need to get crazy. Plus you can shape it for rivers, lakes. Stack it together for hills or mountains.
@@Mark-z5m3e Thanks! I’ll play around with that. :-)
I really like the rolling feet idea on that table.
Great idea Steve. I built a hollow core door layout and glued 1x3x30" "L girders" to the bottom of the door parallel to each of the short sides. Next I attached 2x2 legs with 1x2 horizontal and diagonal braces. The L girders gave a solid platform to secure the legs, which I attached using machine screws and wing nuts for easy removal.
They were not as flexible as the ones you built in this video, but they were cheap and easy to build. Thanks for the great content.
I plan to eventually add some decorative wood trim (maybe 1x4 oak or something like that) which will help to add a lot of extra rigidity to the table.
Is that a pit in your garage??
Underground storm shelter, but can double as a pit.
An ikea desktop is basically the same, also hollow core and some legs. Why did you not go for that option? Also, this type of table (hollow core) is not going to be very strong, it will not carry a lot of weight without bending. So keep that in mind.
An ikea desktop is a great idea, however we sadly don't have one out here. I could of course have one shipped, but then there is shipping fees and time to wait which I didn't have to get the video out on time.
That’s too wobbly for n scale sorry Steve.
Seems ok when running trains on it so far with the wheels locked. It is less wobbly than my 2x4 n scale layout was when I had that on wheels at any rate, though of course less stable than when I had the big steel legs on. Not using caster wheels will of course make it steadier.
@@StevesTrains the issue is the legs have no cross bracing
@@N_scale I'd think the casters would be a bigger problem for teh wobbles than the lack of cross bracing.
@@JeffDM if the casters are tight fitting then they won’t have a weak spot.
What he could do is drill a hole in the legs for a thin bolt and lock washer to make a X between the legs going from each side. That would fix the problem. Could build it out of conduit and some bolts. I get it’s harder to setup than just the legs but I can see a train hitting the cement.
@@N_scale My point was casters swivel and the wheels turn. Making them hard to do either is an option but the more you do that, the more it defeats the purpose of putting them on.
Each of the legs do have a latching diagonal brace going to the table surface.