Starting An Engine After 20 years - Classic Mini 850 Engine Start
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- This is the first start of a 1962 MK1 Morris Mini engine after it sat for more than 20 years! Fortunately, water wasn't able to get to the engine and it wasn't seized so my chances of starting it up kept increasing. After giving it fuel and wiring an ignition she roared into life.
This engine is going into my 1962 MK1 Morris Mini Saloon, and will get extractors and an exhaust system, along with a twin SU setup thrown at it to make her happy. Whilst most would strive for a bigger engine, I like the little 850's and believe that they can make reliable power at a fraction of the cost of a 1275 or similar. It won't be a street dominator, just something reliable that can move when it needs to.
Another old 850 saved from the scrappers!
Cheers for watching folks.
FOR ALL CONCERNED MINI-HOLICS - The engine is now restored and runs like a BRAND NEW one! No damage was done by "revving the crap out of it", she was destined for the scrap pile so revving its guts out was the least of its worries. It's now been completely restored, with a 12G202 Cylinder head, and looks the business. Has been very interesting seeing the reaction from you all - more in favor of a more gentle approach it seems. I personally don't often rev engines like I did this 850, it was more or less a fun Sunday afternoon where we decided to get the old hunk of iron going after it sat for a long time. I have resurrected many types of engines and know the precautions to take before starting something that's sat (oil the bores, check the oil, ensure carb is clean etc etc...) so we can all relax now! Appreciate everybodies feedback, thanks to everyone for watching the video.
SmallEngineSmith
Hope you’re going to do some more updates on the Mini’s progress. Good to see another saved from the crusher.
From what I remember, the 12G202 was used on the 1100, probably other cars too. If it came from an 1100, it would need to be skimmed to get a reasonable compression on an 850.
You've got to accept criticism, If you don't give people all the information in the first instance, then they will make assumptions.The viewers are not here to polish your ego or blow smoke up your arse!!
If you can't handle people making negative comments, then the problem is your's not theirs so maybe RUclips is not for you!!
U thoroughly enjoy the first starts and revivals.
"START YOU BASTARD" fluid. Didn't know they were still in business.
Michael Ball what is that liquid ?
How does It make the engine start?
@@aleddavies770 it's ether starting fluid by nulon
@@aleddavies770 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starting_fluid
Got to say waggling the throttle up and down actually makes things worse on an SU. Its not like a Weber or other carbs where where it acts like a pump. The SU throttle works by lifting the needle and doesn't do anything else. So just pull the choke on (maybe wind the throttle a couple of turns on the choke plate) and let it be.
Nice work, my engine looks like it's better condition than this is and turned over just fine with an oil change, took the carb apart and cleaned it but I just need to rebuild the distributor or install a new one as I'm getting no spark despite a new coil with the proper voltage readings.
To get a good spark on these old hibernated engines is to take some time and clean the primary (especially)and secondary ignition circuits. Start with the dizzy - points, check the wires are in good order, with emery paper clean the wire connections, points, the washers and plate to shine. You want to minimize electrical RESISTANCE and maximise full voltage to the ignition coil. Even the connections at the key switch end if you can get there. Then check the secondary circuit is resistance free and all leads are ok. Once this is done and the fuel side is fine, you will get a quick startup.
Take a graphite pencil and graphite the plugs and the points it gives the spark a bit of a boost for awhile.
Well it was definitely going to start. These little beasts will run forever with good maintenance. Though I noticed some hilarious words on the aerosol can for spraying the parts. Am I not the only one that saw Start ya b*****d.
To all the dissers, it looked like it was just a bit of fun.
NO ONE is NOT going to take the unit out for a full strip and resto after standing for 30 odd years and expect it to run for long on the road
4:20 Valve tapping by Over-Revving. Nice
Wow ok that is a good trick
It won't stay running because the carb is plugged up with gum and varnish in the passages!! Revving the shit out of it won't fix the problem.
Just shows how good the old A series engines are. Try doing that with a new, computer controlled engine.
It's still british crap
Ashley King eh?
@Timothy Iorlano tell that to my fucking Toyota Corolla 😂😂😂
@@ashleyking1688 u need to drive an original mini before coming to that conclusion they’re incredible like fast little go kart
@@ashleyking1688 British crap that sold like hotcakes around the world, and still has people who like them enough to fully restore them.
Not bad for a piece of British crap.
No idea !
It's the valve cover gasket isn't leaking.
Keren = amazing..
Amazing
I don't think I agree with your "theory" about revving the guts out of a first start engine!
That's only fair! I know I revved it too much in the video, but it wouldn't run at low rev's and I didn't plan on running it for long or starting it again, it was just to see if it went, and went it did! This motor is now fully restored with twin cooper S carburetors, an LCB exhaust system, and some rare accessories and parts such as an Australian Valve Cover and New Zealand Made air filters. If only I could upload photos to youtube!
Chill it's fine it's the only way you can keep it running and clear out the engine. Revving it will break anything free and clear it up.
In dormant engines rust builds up on wire connectors and lines, so resistance increases and voltage drops. In the ignition circuit this can be intermittent or as low as half the required voltage. That is why its hard to start a dormant engine. To solve this just take time to check, clean or replace the wires of, first the primary circuit and then the secondary circuit. Using a multimeter helps as you can find out the various outputs and efficiency of the system. Resistance is the enemy. After, check or replace sparkplugs and points. If you follow this method and you have fuel and compression, the engine will start with half a kick.
Benters trust me he’s right it keep the engine going and also lubricates it
It’s never a good idea to rev an engine that’s not under load, Period .
Sad that it has no heater.
Hi... I also want to start a 4 cylinder Euro 3 engine which has been sitting idle for last 8 yrs....can you help me with the points that needs to be checked before starting it. And also what extra things are required for cleaning the Pistons
crap you would never rev an engine that hard after a 20 year stay
wouldn't have been much better off in the local scrappy it was destined to. Runs so nice in my car nowadays, gotta have fun while ya can
do you have a reference for the air filter used in this mini single carb. i have a 1960 morris mini and cant seem to find the air filter for me. thanks
That's a small 4 cylinder engine but looks easy to work on though.
With the size of a Mini, they're actually rather hard to work on! Due to a lack of space. However, out of the vehicle, they are a very very simple engine to work with.
Timothy Maxwell Maxwell . I don't know if this is the right one I'm replying to I saw a Mini Cooper I was just wondering if it was for sale I'm very interested in it my name is Dwayne Collins (205)-454-5826
Have you got more video of the mini?
Popping back through carb , timing ?
Is that engine lacking compression?
did u put oil in the dashpot
Nice I have a similar video on my channel
did you clean out or rebuild the carburetor prior to this starting? I have a 76 1000 that I am hoping to start in a couple days. I rebuild the carburetor and am in the process of restoring the gas tank. I'm going to hook up a small remote gas tank for now.
Hi there! I checked for any varnished fuel or debris in the small fuel bowl and luckily found nothing. After freeing the aluminium throttle slide (not sure on what this is called) and making sure the carburetor was oiled I ran it this way. It did not idle as the main carb jet was stuck. But it ran well enough to clear itself out! I've hard good things about the 1000cc engines. Good luck! Make sure that your points, if the car is fitted with points and condenser, are gapped and functioning correctly as these can often be a pain! Cheers.
Got a brand new engine out of the car that I can’t get going. Getting fuel air and spark perfect but won’t go. Any tips for getting it going at first? Spray petrol down the manifold?
Try cleaning the fuel lines, or increasing the amount of fuel entering the engine through the carburetor. Once the engine has been ran in it might start a little easier because all of the engines components would of worn into place and function more efficiently.
I take it u got it going now ahaha, was it compression or something silly but easy to do like having the hot leads on the wrong cylinders ahah… don’t ask me how I know that 😂
I know this might sound silly but when doing this sort of procedure is the oil and coolant changed at all?
Not a silly question. It's a rather personal preference. Some like to change oil, but I prefer not to, as with engines like this particular one it will be torn apart, so in turn, I would have wasted 3 liters of new oil, when I could run it briefly on some old stuff just to make sure it works :) I ran it on water as it was only a temporary start, but for more expensive engines I would recommend changing the oil and coolant to ensure that no damage is done.
To all people being sarcastic internet mechanics, chill out its a old a series engine there not exactly the rarest exotic thing in the world its a old piece of British machinery designed in the 1950s its not like in its whole life its never been revved abit from cold
Actually these old A series engines are getting rarer as time goes by and a good one or a reconditioned one goes for gold on Ebay.
Clowns
. .. Salut my friend super car super video subscribe subscribe
Jesus. Christ.
Bitch of a farking things, I bet the engineers are still laughing. Cant even get you hand down around the engine to work without lifting the body off the engine.
Yes rev the crap out of it and bend sticky valves you hacker. I would let you within 200 feet of my cars!
You WOULD let me within 200 feet of your cars? That's great news to hear. All valves were checked and oiled before her start, just so you know. Cheers.
Shut up you old fool - im tired of getting stuck behind you lot at the classic car races holding up the whole show while you pointlessly putter around - its a car, not a rocket ship, its made of cast iron and steel, not glass - get a life you plonker
Es ist absolut tötlich , einen kalten Motor nach so langer Standzeit so hoch zu drehen. Hoffentlich wurde vor dem Start ein Ölwechsel mit neuem Ölfilter gemacht und auch Öl in die Führung der Kolbenstange vom Fallstromvergaser gefüllt.
@@helmutbuhler915 In der Tat. Am besten den Motor ohne eingebaute Zündkerzen durchdrehen (um sie herum vor dem Ausbau mit Paraffin reinigen), bis sich ein wenig Öldruck aufbaut / die Öllampe erlischt. Sie können normalerweise hören, wenn sich die Ölpumpe mit Öl ansaugt, wenn der Anlasser stärker belastet wird.
Kann ein Übersetzungsproblem sein, aber natürlich ist der SU-Vergaser ein Typ mit konstantem Unterdruck, kein Fallstrom.
Der Zweck des Kolbendämpfers (falls Sie es nicht wussten) ist der gleiche wie bei einer Beschleunigerpumpe bei einem Fallstromtyp - das Verlangsamen des Kolbenanstiegs erhöht vorübergehend die Luftgeschwindigkeit, was für kurze Zeit zu einem fetteren Gemisch führt.
Here is the original English since Google translate is not perfect !
Indeed. It is best to crank the engine without the spark plugs installed (clean around them with paraffin before removing) until a little oil pressure builds up / the oil light goes out. You can usually hear the oil pump priming itself with oil as the starter motor becomes more loaded.
May be a translation issue, but of course the SU carburetor is a constant depression type, not downdraft.
The purpose of the piston damper (in case you didn't know) is the same as an accelerator pump on a downdraft type - slowing the piston rise momentarily increases air velocity, resulting in a richer mixture for a short time.
You clearly have no idea what you are doing.
She was headed to the scrap pile, so this was the least of its worries. What you didn't see was all of my pre-start measures, which included the removal of the valve cover to check for stuck valves, oiling up the top end, cleaning the carb, flushing and refilling the cooling system etc... I do have some clue on what needs to be done, the revving in the video was just a bit of a wake up call (& a way to mess with all the mini enthusiasts ;) and did zero damage to internal components (the ether also had no effect).