This is the solution I've been looking for! I'm on a VERY limited woodworking budget, so I can't purchase a combo belt/spindle sander like I want right now. This will fill that need for me, and who knows? I may not need the other tool after all! I appreciate all of your attention to detail as well. Many thanks, from one woodworker to another!
Thanks, and I'm glad to help! I still wish I had a spindle sander, since they move up and down and provide a more even use of the sanding drum, but I don't have the room right now, so this has been "good enough" for me. 😄
Great job Dan. I know this took some time and effort but truly it doesn’t go unappreciated. I for one am grateful you care enough to take the time to show us the right way of doing things especially if they could cause harm ourselves or our machinery. You did a very through job but I will have to replay it a couple of times to get all of those sizes on the bits, the screws, etc, etc. I’m just giving you a hard time, lol. Thanks so much Dan for another great video!
Thanks, and LOL. I suppose I did kind of gloss over the sizes. Good thing you actually *can* replay, right? Seriously, though, I appreciate the comment. :)
Dan, thanks for your videos and particularly the specifics, bolt sizes, depths and all the details. I just used you video on dust collection and did a variation of this sander, but created it as a downdraft box to connect right to my dust collection and works like a charm!
Thank you for the video. The correct bearing for this application is a radial flanged bearing. The radial design allows for force to be exerted perpendicular to the axis of the shaft. As another commenter noted, the flange type bearing seats the washer better.
Nice one Dan that jig is great well done on making that, and yet again from you another well explained video. Keep up this great work you are doing. Barry (ENG)
I've really enjoyed watching all three videos (the original, the retraction, and this "final" solution using suggestions from your followers). The solution to excessive side pressure is excellent and I think you did a great job explaining and showing. Thanks! I had been interested in an alternate to buying a spindle sander and thought using my cheapo drill press might suffice. I quickly estimate that the cost to create this jig (at least for me) would be about $45 for the various pieces and parts. More if I buy the higher priced items. The spindle sander you linked to is $105. So, for that delta of $60, what do I gain? Well, no jig attachment hassles. But a spindle sander requires more space to store than the jig and sanding drums. A flip-top base would let me store the spindle sander and bench jointer in one base. Better vision of the sanding as you pointed out. More even wear on the sanding sleeves. And the drill press remains available as a drill should I need it. Probably better dust collection on the spindle sander. So, as I see it, I need to consider if that $60 savings is worth it. I just want to say that how you handled the reactions to your original video and leveraging the ideas and suggestions of your followers was truly wonderful to watch. I really appreciate the efforts you put into each of you videos.
Thanks, Doug! I really appreciate your comment. And I'm with you 100% on your thinking, even with the idea of a flip-top. That's on the radar for me, although it's probably quite a ways down the line. For me, I actually have a cabinet I could store the spindle sander in, and take it out when I need it (which I currently do with my band saw). So I think if I didn't already have the sanding drums and bearings, I might have considered buying a spindle sander. But it's always hard to make these kinds of decisions.
Great follow up video, Dan. Two thoughts: 1. "Newbie" you are not. 2. I am glad to see there are other woodworkers out there whose shop is 1/2 of a garage space (no room for that spindle sander and everything else).
Thanks, and LOL. I suppose it depends on your perspective. Although I've worked with tools off and on for years, it's only been the last 1 1/2 years where I've actually learned anything. :) And yup, limited space. It's a tough life. :)
Second time's a charm, right? Good save, Dan! I'm curious about one thing: the recommendation to 'set the drillpress at it's highest setting'. I hesitate to add these comments since what you're doing is working and is not unsafe by any means so take this for what it's worth? With dribblits, (love spelling it that way :-) hole saws and sanding drums I tend to run them at the lowest speed setting that gets the job done. The practice helps extend life of each noticeably, to the extent that it's usually worth the extra time to change speeds between tool and/or operation changes. It's all about the speed of the tool where the work is being done: the speed of a hole saw tooth where it encounters wood, the speed the sanding grit against workpiece, etc. Speed (RPM) goes down as diameter goes up. Lower speed= less heat, less heat= longer life. Longer life from reduced gumming of sanding drums and reduced burning/clogging of hole saw teeth, etc. With the excellent in-depth research you pack into each of your videos you might find some official charts or formulas that address this but I've found a good rule of thumb is 'less is more'. Keep up the excellent work, Dan... I'm a student of your channel and appreciate what you put into it! Best, Matt
Thanks, Matt. The reason I talked about a high speed setting, is that at lower settings, it seemed like it wasn't doing much sanding at all. But hey, if you can get it to sand at lower speeds, go for it! (I might also be just a tad impatient...) :)
Another great, simple How-To ... thanks Newbie Dan!!! Btw: I made this, but went with flanged bearings after comparing it with a normal bearing. The lip of the flange bearing stops it perfectly and prevents me for pushing the bearing down too far. The downside was that a **good** sealed flanged was more expensive. However, for 10 flange bearings, it only cost $14 vs $11 for 20 regular bearings (bearing are inexpensive compared to most things, so I often buy better quality... and every now and then, better quality can cost less that its lower quality counterparts.) So try a flange sometime. You will need to adjust the bore hole, and bearing size a bit, but it is worth it.
This is great. Was just about to purchase sanding drums online for this purpose. Wasn’t thinking of the side pressure on the drill press (harbor freight). Quick and easy solution! Thanks!
It took me 2:07 to find out I’ve been doing it wrong, I've been choosing my speed as I would with bits. I thought the bigger the drum the slower you’d set the drill. I have cheaper drums and I find they need a little double sided tape to keep the sandpaper in place. A great video, thank you.
Thanks. Honestly, I'm not sure about the speed. My feeling is, try it multiple ways, and use whatever works best for you. I'm by no means an expert, so do your own testing to be sure. 😄
I used this idea (kinda, didn't have the bearing on the bottom, just went light) to smooth out some edges on Corian cutting boards. Worked like a champ
This is great! I do not have a belt/disc sander yet. No oscillating sander either for that matter. I have thought about using my drill press as a drum sander but was worried about ruining it with the side force. It's a cheap drill press and even if it's okay to use drum sanders on it, I still worry about the side pressure. This bearing trick idea just put my worries to rest. Thanks for another great video Dan.
Glad I could help! I still use the drums like this, but I sure wish I had an oscillating drum sander - I just don't have the room. Anyway, yes I was concerned about the side force also, but this definitely helps with that, as long as the bearing fits reasonably snugly into the hole - it doesn't need to be tight, just not so loose that it's not really doing anything. Thanks for the comment! 😄
Very good video thank you. I am going to build the same sanding plate and drum mod an d look forward to using my drill for this task as well. Thanks for the links. Looking forward to the build .
Awesome ideas here. Thanks for sharing. Do you need to make a top piece for the jig for each sanding drum you own, or can you use one of the smaller drums in that same top piece?
Thanks, and that's a great question. I've been using one piece for all sizes. But for the smaller drums, sometimes the insert starts to rise up a little. So the jury's still out on that.
Great instructions, Dan. This jig was fun to build. One problem though. The bearing you used, which is the one in the first link you provided, is a standard 608 bearing (dimensions: 8 x 22 x 7 mm}. However, the cheaper version you listed is smaller: 8 x 16 x 5 mm). Unfortunately, the cheaper ones were the ones I bought. I went ahead and built the jig to accommodate the smaller bearing, but finding small enough washers was difficult, and the hex head on the bolt fit just barely inside the circumference of the bearing. Not so good. I ordered the correct size bearings and the jig works great! Couple of points: Here in Canada at least, a 4" 5/16 hex bolt only has threads down the first inch or so of the shaft. So you'll need a die set to extend the thread down inside the sanding drum. As an alternative, you can use a 4" 5/16 carriage bolt, which is threaded its full length, and grind the square corners off under the head. Note that the larger carriage bolt head will fit on the 22mm bearing but not the 16mm one. The rest of the story: I was using my new jig and drum sanders to shape the fence for a new table saw sled. I guess I got over zealous, because I blew my drill press motor out. Probably I was using too slow a speed. Turned out to be the thermal fuse inside the motor. It's now sitting in pieces, waiting for a decision on what rating of thermostat I'm going to use to replace the thermal fuse. That way if it goes open again it'll reset itself. By the way, if anyone knows the temperature class of the motor on a Ryobi DP102L please let me know. There no data on that motor I can find, from Ryobi or elsewhere. To be continued ...
OMG! I'm so sorry about your drill press! I hope it works out. I feel bad. Sigh. At least you've got a lot more technical skills than I do, and are able to fix it yourself. I have a nephew who used to work for Ryobi, and I'll ask him if he has any way to find out about the temperature class for the motor. Thanks for letting me know about the bearings. I updated the description. As for the hex bolts not being threaded all the way down, there's two kinds, even here in the US. I'm guessing the store you bought yours at only carries one kind. My local Home Depot has a limited selection of ones threaded all the way down, but at least it has *some*. Very creative solutions, by the way! You sound like my kind of guy. Where there's a will, there's a way, right? What do you do for a living? I'm guessing it involves music, judging by your picture with the keyboard, mixing board, studio monitor, and soundproofing on the wall. There's also another device that has an XLR port, but I can't quite make out what it is. I used to do some music recording (I play acoustic guitar and sing), but that was a long time ago, and I never was very good. The recording just proved it to me. :) I also did some MIDI stuff.
Most drill press motors are Class A, but one never wants to assume. So if your nephew can find out, that would be great. Yes, I've been a musician all my life, through my training had to wait until my adult years. I play guitar and piano and what not (the what not is a very difficult instrument, but I'm learning). I compose and arrange and write lyrics, having been a professional copywriter in the tech industry for some 20 years. Now I just do music - if I'm not in my garage workshop making jigs, that is. If I recall, that box with the XLR jack is a UA Solo 610 preamp. I've built two studios since then, and have a lot more gear now. I get into a bit of electronics also, upgrading an old guitar amp, adding crossovers to a pair of speakers I like, building digital processors from schematics, that sort of thing. I'm too eclectic for my own good, though I try to stick to just doing music, which is time consuming enough. Thanks for asking.
That is so cool. I haven't learned the whatnot yet, although I do have some Roland v-drums which are more like whatthe? than whatnot. Turns out the only rhythm I have is when I'm holding a guitar. A professional copywriter in the tech industry? What does that mean, exactly? I don't know if I mentioned it, but in my prior life I was a software developer. I also wrote a lot of documentation and tutorials, which is why this RUclips stuff is kind of a natural fit for me. Waiting to hear back from my nephew, although I enlisted the aid of my brother (his father), so I should hear something either way for sure. I'll let you know as soon as I hear back. If you'd rather I contact you via email, go to my website and use the menu dropdown to send me an email. thenewbiewoodworker.com/
Wayne - Here's the info I got, from the supplier. Don't know if it answers your question or not: The temperature protector is in the stator coil and couldn’t install it by oneself. The spec is AMC-125. Overcurrent protective device is ok to install by oneself , the rated current is 6.5A.
Glad it all came together and you were a LOT quicker in the rebuild than what I was expecting... Guess you got Jazzed up about the build and the community response. I have both a more expensive set (Bighorn in a plastic case) and the Powertec set of sanding drums. I don't see much of a difference. For all I know it could be same manufacturer and different packaging. For now I just use the Powertec set as grabbing them out of my bin is a lot easier than finding and opening the case... yes, I'm lazy...
Hello Dan - another very nice detailed video. I am starting to build one. BTW at about 12:40 you talk about a 5/16" hole for bearing. I believe the bearings are 608 bearings with an outside diameter of 22mm. A 5/16" hole will only be 8mm. Don't we need a 7/8" hole for the bearing? Am I missing something. Can you please clarify and help. Thanks a lot in advance.
If you have a wood lathe, you can also make sanding drums to fit onto it - without having to build something to resist sideways pressure, as lathes are designed for that...and you use the whole length of the sanding drum, and if make your own (on the lathe, you can make them as big/small as you like or for specific jobs.... You can also fit polishing mops etc...👍🏻
Thanks Dan. I'm in the process of making mine. One problem, I could only get bearings with an inside diameter of 12mm and my drill press can only take up to 10mm. This means the bolt will not sit tight inside the bearing, causing it to wobble (it's impossible to get it centered). Any ideas how to overcome this?
You might be able to find a nylon spacer the right size, but I wouldn't count on it. Honestly, you can probably live without the bearing, as long as you don't use too much pressure from the side. Just keep an eye on the drill, and make sure you don't see it start to wobble over time.
That's funny. I was working on another video where I thought I sounded so much like an infomercial, I was tempted to do a mock-infomercial. Except of course people might assume I was actually shilling something! 😂
Thanks! And thanks for the heads-up about the link - it means a lot when someone bothers to point out those things. It's corrected now. And now I have a good reason to fix how I store the links, so it's harder to make this mistake. :)
Hi Dan. I’m interested in making a selection of drums for my drill pres. Just wondering though,.. what’s the minimum Horse power you would recommend for the press and what rpm rsnge would you say is best for these drums? I have a feeling I may be up for a new drill press
I'm not sure it matters, if you're patient. Just see if what you have works, and if it doesn't, then you have your answer. But if you're looking for an excuse to buy a new drill press, then of course your current one is inadequate. 😂Everyone needs to buy new tools whenever they get the chance. 😄
Thanks! I'll be building a new drill press table shortly, and I'll do a build on it. Hopefully - you know how other things come up when you have plans. :)
I don't see how in the world that could hurt the drill press. I made my own sanding drums using a hole saw and stacking and gluing them together and wrapping them with sanding belt segments, put in a quarter inch bolt that was too small. when I put too much pressure on the side of the sanding drum it bent the bolt and I had to straighten it and I put larger bolts through my sanding drums to fix the problem. Since I'm left-handed I try to use my drill press running counterclockwise whenever possible. Who says that drill presses have to be right-handed! I love the directional switch that I just put on my 1937 Delta drill press. I'm finding more uses for it all the time. The booklet that came with my drill press has two chapters on routing and shaping wood on the drill press. I'm looking forward to doing a lot of that. I've already made some knobs and handles on it. I am currently looking for ideas on building a drill press table.
The only thing I can say is that the drill press is built for vertical pressure, not horizontal pressure. So although I don't know what might go wrong, I can see that *something* might go wrong. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker drill press quills are built pretty beefy for side pressure. Just like a wood lathe. Of course they are built for side pressure. It would be an extremely crappy drill if it wasn't. That's exactly why the quill is build so much bigger and stronger than the spindle. They even sell special slide tables for drill presses to turn them into milling machines so you can Mill metal items on them, and you know that puts a lot of side pressure on them. A hell of a lot more than any sanding drum could ever put on them. Otherwise my drill press owners manual would not recommend and give demonstrations on how to route on the drill press with fences and jigs. It seems like almost nobody knows what a great router table drill presses make. Try looking up an old book called "Getting The Most Out Of Your Drill Press" published by Delta. I downloaded a copy of another Delta owners manual that had more about routing than my book did. It even shows how to disassemble the drill press and reassemble it so that the motor and head piece are upside down underneath the drill table to use it like a regular standard router table. But it mostly shows how to use the standard configuration of the drill press for routing. If it could not be done safely they certainly would not put it in their owner's manual. They would be sued all over the place!!! Just saying. Have fun. 😃
@@TF856 Thanks for the info. Truthfully, I'm just going by things some people have said, and more importantly, covering my butt in case someone damages their drill press. 😄
That is a great idea! My child collected more than she needed and now (of course) 2yrs later they are completely abandoned. I was going to get rid of them before reading your comment. Thanks!
I like your jig coz it's very small thus easy to store. I also have these drums and I find it hard to have the shaft centered. Any tips? Do you make one for each drum size? Any downside using smaller drum with the larger hole of the top layer?
Thanks. I'm not sure why you're having trouble centering the shaft, so I don't have any help for you there. I don't have one for *each* drum, but I do have a separate one for the smallest drum (or maybe the separate one is for the 2 smallest drums - I can't remember right now), for the exact reason you mentioned.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker looking at my biggest drum, the rubber is about 1/4" thick thus leaving a much bigger hole in the center for the shaft. The exact position of the shaft depends on the location of washers sandwiching it. Not an issue with the smaller ones. Thanks for your quick reply as always 👍
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I have it figured out. All the extra rubber on yours, it is the difference between a $26 set and $10 set 🤣 At 8:25 I see your drum has a small center hole.
Are you using 5/16 forstner bit to drill the hole for the bearing? I thought the outside diameter of the bearing is 22mm which is about 7/8 inch, right?
Dan, I wonder if you can tell me where you got the small-diameter 5/16 washer to sit around the bearings. In Canada, it seems we can only get the larger-diameter 5/16 washer. I tried 1/4” brass washers, and tried to drill out the hole to 5/16”, with mixed success, but all fingers intact. TIA
Actually, I don't know. It was in my box of washers. But here's some suggestions: 1) You *might* be able to find a metric-sized washer that will work. 2) If you want to try drilling out a washer, use a "step drill bit" like this: amzn.to/2KGTABe. I'm not necessarily recommending this particular bit, I'm just showing you what I mean. And I've never tried this, but I saw a video that mentioned it. 3) Another option is to attach the larger washer to a bolt, sandwiched between a couple of nuts. Then place it in your drill press, turn on the drill press, and hold a file to it until you get it ground down enough. If not a file, try sandpaper attached to a sanding block. Move it around a lot. You'll need to rest your hand on your drill press table, or something, to keep it stable enough against the washer. Don't forget to round the edges a little so you don't cut yourself. :) Let me know if any of this helps.
Looks like I may have gotten the “cheaper” ones you had linked to, but have since removed. 8*16 Rubber Sealed Ball Bearings 8*16*5 688-2RS (Advantage Racing Products) from Amazon.ca. I believe I have found appropriately sized washers on Amazon... 8mm ID, 12mm OD which SHOULD stay off the outside ring ... looks like I won’t get them until end of August, so won’t have a confirmation on how they fit until then, but will let you know.
Dan, I can tell you are quiet mechanically minded. So, here is a challenge. See if you can come up with a rope or cable that fastens to your drill press arm and runs down to a treadle or foot pedal that will let you oscillate your sanding drum with your foot. You may have to give up your lower bearing, although I'll bet you can figure out how to keep it. I believe with your drill press you can set upper and lower spindle limits. Good luck with the challenge.
I think someone else has done this - I think I remember seeing a video on this. But no, I'm not mechanically minded like that. Sorry to burst your bubble. 😛
This press has worked like a charm for my projects ruclips.net/user/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!
12:50 bought a second "Spade" woodrill (cause they are cheap+fast) so i can sand this drill down to have a tight fit en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit#/media/File:Spade_bits.JPG
@@hyperhektor7733 They just seem dangerous to me, but that may be a personal issue. I prefer Forstner bits or hole saws. But again, that's probably just me.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker i forgot to add they are good with handheld drills since they need can cut with less pressure (in comparison to forstner) but instead with higher speed. Also they dont need a perfect straight drilling angle to work. Sure not optimal for delicate work with the fingers close nearby, but exept that case they are fast,cheap and good in handheld drilling. I grinded 3 of them for ball bearings inside diameter of the bearings: (6mm = = 626zz = 19mm drill ) (8mm = 608zz bearing = 22mm drill) 10mm = 6200zz bearing = 26mm drill)
@@hyperhektor7733 Thanks for the info. I think I must have gotten one stuck in the wood a long time ago, because I have a vague memory (or fear) of the bit getting caught and ripping the drill out of my hand. But I'm glad they work for you! 😄
Good ideas.So you don’t have $125 for the correct sander or a quality used one if you can find it and you make money from RUclips?This should be titled “the cheapskate way to drum sand”
LOL. It's not the money, it's the space. I just don't have anywhere to put it. One of these days I'll build a new workbench, including a flip-top section to hold a spindle sander. But not today. :)
This is the solution I've been looking for! I'm on a VERY limited woodworking budget, so I can't purchase a combo belt/spindle sander like I want right now. This will fill that need for me, and who knows? I may not need the other tool after all! I appreciate all of your attention to detail as well. Many thanks, from one woodworker to another!
Thanks, and I'm glad to help! I still wish I had a spindle sander, since they move up and down and provide a more even use of the sanding drum, but I don't have the room right now, so this has been "good enough" for me. 😄
Great job Dan. I know this took some time and effort but truly it doesn’t go unappreciated. I for one am grateful you care enough to take the time to show us the right way of doing things especially if they could cause harm ourselves or our machinery. You did a very through job but I will have to replay it a couple of times to get all of those sizes on the bits, the screws, etc, etc. I’m just giving you a hard time, lol. Thanks so much Dan for another great video!
Thanks, and LOL. I suppose I did kind of gloss over the sizes. Good thing you actually *can* replay, right? Seriously, though, I appreciate the comment. :)
Dan, thanks for your videos and particularly the specifics, bolt sizes, depths and all the details. I just used you video on dust collection and did a variation of this sander, but created it as a downdraft box to connect right to my dust collection and works like a charm!
That's awesome! Thanks for letting me know. 😄
Thank you for the video. The correct bearing for this application is a radial flanged bearing. The radial design allows for force to be exerted perpendicular to the axis of the shaft. As another commenter noted, the flange type bearing seats the washer better.
Thanks for the info! 👍
You, sir, continue to impress, educate, and entertain. Another great video! I love this channel and I’m so glad I found it. Keep up the great work! 👍🏼
Now, THAT's what I call a comment. :) Thanks!
Great video Dan, thank you. This prompted me into making my own version of this jig. Very happy how it turned out.
That's awesome! 😄
I like how you show how to do it without all the top tools that many of us don't have.
Thanks. I don't have them either, except for the SawStop. :)
You are like one of my favorite tubers man! Your delivery is just great!
Thanks! That means a lot! 😄
Love your videos and humor! But now I am having an unplanned RUclips binge morning because of you! 😁
LOL, thanks! And I've been there, plenty of times. You do know you can come back any time and watch them, right? 😛😉
I know it was more work than you intended, but it turned out in the end. Good work and community effort!
Thanks! And I agree - you gotta love the community. People willing to help others, for no reason other than just wanting to help. Awesome.
Nice one Dan that jig is great well done on making that, and yet again from you another well explained video. Keep up this great work you are doing.
Barry (ENG)
Thanks, Barry!
Nice setup. I like how you were able to get better usage of the drill press and save money
Thanks! I appreciate it! 😄
I've really enjoyed watching all three videos (the original, the retraction, and this "final" solution using suggestions from your followers). The solution to excessive side pressure is excellent and I think you did a great job explaining and showing. Thanks! I had been interested in an alternate to buying a spindle sander and thought using my cheapo drill press might suffice. I quickly estimate that the cost to create this jig (at least for me) would be about $45 for the various pieces and parts. More if I buy the higher priced items. The spindle sander you linked to is $105. So, for that delta of $60, what do I gain? Well, no jig attachment hassles. But a spindle sander requires more space to store than the jig and sanding drums. A flip-top base would let me store the spindle sander and bench jointer in one base. Better vision of the sanding as you pointed out. More even wear on the sanding sleeves. And the drill press remains available as a drill should I need it. Probably better dust collection on the spindle sander. So, as I see it, I need to consider if that $60 savings is worth it.
I just want to say that how you handled the reactions to your original video and leveraging the ideas and suggestions of your followers was truly wonderful to watch. I really appreciate the efforts you put into each of you videos.
Thanks, Doug! I really appreciate your comment. And I'm with you 100% on your thinking, even with the idea of a flip-top. That's on the radar for me, although it's probably quite a ways down the line. For me, I actually have a cabinet I could store the spindle sander in, and take it out when I need it (which I currently do with my band saw). So I think if I didn't already have the sanding drums and bearings, I might have considered buying a spindle sander. But it's always hard to make these kinds of decisions.
Great follow up video, Dan. Two thoughts: 1. "Newbie" you are not. 2. I am glad to see there are other woodworkers out there whose shop is 1/2 of a garage space (no room for that spindle sander and everything else).
Thanks, and LOL. I suppose it depends on your perspective. Although I've worked with tools off and on for years, it's only been the last 1 1/2 years where I've actually learned anything. :) And yup, limited space. It's a tough life. :)
Well that was a good video. Seriously. I really like how you use the tools you have and make do with it. Thanks for all the work you put into this.
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 🙂
Second time's a charm, right? Good save, Dan!
I'm curious about one thing: the recommendation to 'set the drillpress at it's highest setting'.
I hesitate to add these comments since what you're doing is working and is not unsafe by any means so take this for what it's worth?
With dribblits, (love spelling it that way :-) hole saws and sanding drums I tend to run them at the lowest speed setting that gets the job done. The practice helps extend life of each noticeably, to the extent that it's usually worth the extra time to change speeds between tool and/or operation changes. It's all about the speed of the tool where the work is being done: the speed of a hole saw tooth where it encounters wood, the speed the sanding grit against workpiece, etc. Speed (RPM) goes down as diameter goes up. Lower speed= less heat, less heat= longer life. Longer life from reduced gumming of sanding drums and reduced burning/clogging of hole saw teeth, etc. With the excellent in-depth research you pack into each of your videos you might find some official charts or formulas that address this but I've found a good rule of thumb is 'less is more'.
Keep up the excellent work, Dan... I'm a student of your channel and appreciate what you put into it! Best, Matt
Thanks, Matt. The reason I talked about a high speed setting, is that at lower settings, it seemed like it wasn't doing much sanding at all. But hey, if you can get it to sand at lower speeds, go for it! (I might also be just a tad impatient...) :)
Another great, simple How-To ... thanks Newbie Dan!!!
Btw: I made this, but went with flanged bearings after comparing it with a normal bearing. The lip of the flange bearing stops it perfectly and prevents me for pushing the bearing down too far. The downside was that a **good** sealed flanged was more expensive. However, for 10 flange bearings, it only cost $14 vs $11 for 20 regular bearings (bearing are inexpensive compared to most things, so I often buy better quality... and every now and then, better quality can cost less that its lower quality counterparts.)
So try a flange sometime. You will need to adjust the bore hole, and bearing size a bit, but it is worth it.
Thanks, and thanks for the tip! I'll definitely try them. 😄
This is great. Was just about to purchase sanding drums online for this purpose. Wasn’t thinking of the side pressure on the drill press (harbor freight). Quick and easy solution! Thanks!
Your quite welcome! Let me know how it works out for you. 😄
This video was top drawer! Thank you for this! Helpful, informative and comprehensive.
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 🙂
It took me 2:07 to find out I’ve been doing it wrong, I've been choosing my speed as I would with bits. I thought the bigger the drum the slower you’d set the drill.
I have cheaper drums and I find they need a little double sided tape to keep the sandpaper in place.
A great video, thank you.
Thanks. Honestly, I'm not sure about the speed. My feeling is, try it multiple ways, and use whatever works best for you. I'm by no means an expert, so do your own testing to be sure. 😄
I used this idea (kinda, didn't have the bearing on the bottom, just went light) to smooth out some edges on Corian cutting boards. Worked like a champ
Awesome!
Thanks Dan. You have just saved me hundreds of dollars by showing me how to make my own sanding machine :)
Thanks. I may have saved you money for now, but I'm sure I'll cause you to spend money on something else, in the future. :)
Just finished building my new toy! It works a treat. Thanks a mil. :)
Awesome! Really glad it worked out for you!
Dude, my spindle sander died, this is awesome. I created a rudimentary jig just like yours. Great video!😊
Thanks! Glad I could help! 🙂
This is great! I do not have a belt/disc sander yet. No oscillating sander either for that matter. I have thought about using my drill press as a drum sander but was worried about ruining it with the side force. It's a cheap drill press and even if it's okay to use drum sanders on it, I still worry about the side pressure. This bearing trick idea just put my worries to rest. Thanks for another great video Dan.
Glad I could help! I still use the drums like this, but I sure wish I had an oscillating drum sander - I just don't have the room. Anyway, yes I was concerned about the side force also, but this definitely helps with that, as long as the bearing fits reasonably snugly into the hole - it doesn't need to be tight, just not so loose that it's not really doing anything. Thanks for the comment! 😄
Awesome, Dan! I’m glad it worked out.
Thanks! So am I. :)
Very well explained. I'm going to try this. Thanks for sharing.
It seems you made/uses John Heisz push stick.
Thanks! I've settled on using John Heisz's push stick in my right hand, and Matthias Wandel's push stick in my left hand. The best of both worlds. 😄
Very good video thank you. I am going to build the same sanding plate and drum mod an d look forward to using my drill for this task as well. Thanks for the links. Looking forward to the build .
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
great idea and a great build all clearly [forearms forgiven] instructed. i love this idea. cheers
Thanks! 😄
I like your videos you always explain everything clearly.
Thanks! I appreciate it more than you may ever know. :)
Awesome ideas here. Thanks for sharing. Do you need to make a top piece for the jig for each sanding drum you own, or can you use one of the smaller drums in that same top piece?
Thanks, and that's a great question. I've been using one piece for all sizes. But for the smaller drums, sometimes the insert starts to rise up a little. So the jury's still out on that.
great well made video on a topic i needed inspiring in two ways thanks for this
Thanks, and you're welcome! 😄
Great instructions, Dan. This jig was fun to build. One problem though. The bearing you used, which is the one in the first link you provided, is a standard 608 bearing (dimensions: 8 x 22 x 7 mm}. However, the cheaper version you listed is smaller: 8 x 16 x 5 mm).
Unfortunately, the cheaper ones were the ones I bought. I went ahead and built the jig to accommodate the smaller bearing, but finding small enough washers was difficult, and the hex head on the bolt fit just barely inside the circumference of the bearing. Not so good.
I ordered the correct size bearings and the jig works great!
Couple of points: Here in Canada at least, a 4" 5/16 hex bolt only has threads down the first inch or so of the shaft. So you'll need a die set to extend the thread down inside the sanding drum. As an alternative, you can use a 4" 5/16 carriage bolt, which is threaded its full length, and grind the square corners off under the head. Note that the larger carriage bolt head will fit on the 22mm bearing but not the 16mm one.
The rest of the story: I was using my new jig and drum sanders to shape the fence for a new table saw sled. I guess I got over zealous, because I blew my drill press motor out. Probably I was using too slow a speed. Turned out to be the thermal fuse inside the motor. It's now sitting in pieces, waiting for a decision on what rating of thermostat I'm going to use to replace the thermal fuse. That way if it goes open again it'll reset itself. By the way, if anyone knows the temperature class of the motor on a Ryobi DP102L please let me know. There no data on that motor I can find, from Ryobi or elsewhere. To be continued ...
OMG! I'm so sorry about your drill press! I hope it works out. I feel bad. Sigh. At least you've got a lot more technical skills than I do, and are able to fix it yourself. I have a nephew who used to work for Ryobi, and I'll ask him if he has any way to find out about the temperature class for the motor.
Thanks for letting me know about the bearings. I updated the description.
As for the hex bolts not being threaded all the way down, there's two kinds, even here in the US. I'm guessing the store you bought yours at only carries one kind. My local Home Depot has a limited selection of ones threaded all the way down, but at least it has *some*. Very creative solutions, by the way! You sound like my kind of guy. Where there's a will, there's a way, right?
What do you do for a living? I'm guessing it involves music, judging by your picture with the keyboard, mixing board, studio monitor, and soundproofing on the wall. There's also another device that has an XLR port, but I can't quite make out what it is. I used to do some music recording (I play acoustic guitar and sing), but that was a long time ago, and I never was very good. The recording just proved it to me. :) I also did some MIDI stuff.
Most drill press motors are Class A, but one never wants to assume. So if your nephew can find out, that would be great.
Yes, I've been a musician all my life, through my training had to wait until my adult years. I play guitar and piano and what not (the what not is a very difficult instrument, but I'm learning). I compose and arrange and write lyrics, having been a professional copywriter in the tech industry for some 20 years. Now I just do music - if I'm not in my garage workshop making jigs, that is.
If I recall, that box with the XLR jack is a UA Solo 610 preamp. I've built two studios since then, and have a lot more gear now. I get into a bit of electronics also, upgrading an old guitar amp, adding crossovers to a pair of speakers I like, building digital processors from schematics, that sort of thing. I'm too eclectic for my own good, though I try to stick to just doing music, which is time consuming enough. Thanks for asking.
That is so cool. I haven't learned the whatnot yet, although I do have some Roland v-drums which are more like whatthe? than whatnot. Turns out the only rhythm I have is when I'm holding a guitar.
A professional copywriter in the tech industry? What does that mean, exactly? I don't know if I mentioned it, but in my prior life I was a software developer. I also wrote a lot of documentation and tutorials, which is why this RUclips stuff is kind of a natural fit for me.
Waiting to hear back from my nephew, although I enlisted the aid of my brother (his father), so I should hear something either way for sure. I'll let you know as soon as I hear back. If you'd rather I contact you via email, go to my website and use the menu dropdown to send me an email. thenewbiewoodworker.com/
Wayne - Here's the info I got, from the supplier. Don't know if it answers your question or not:
The temperature protector is in the stator coil and couldn’t install it by oneself. The spec is AMC-125.
Overcurrent protective device is ok to install by oneself , the rated current is 6.5A.
Will be making use of some ideas. Thorough. Thank you!
You're quite welcome! 🙂
Nice! Another solution for sanding until I am able to purchase a spindle sander. Thanks for sharing🙂
Thanks, and you're quite welcome!
Glad it all came together and you were a LOT quicker in the rebuild than what I was expecting... Guess you got Jazzed up about the build and the community response. I have both a more expensive set (Bighorn in a plastic case) and the Powertec set of sanding drums. I don't see much of a difference. For all I know it could be same manufacturer and different packaging. For now I just use the Powertec set as grabbing them out of my bin is a lot easier than finding and opening the case... yes, I'm lazy...
Thanks for the comment, and LOL - I'm lazy but that beats me. :)
Very well made video, thank you !
How do you call the material (large stick) you use to clean the sand drum ?
It's called an "Abrasive Cleaning Stick".
Nice job. Another great video. Thanks for your hard work!
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 😄
Hello Dan - another very nice detailed video. I am starting to build one. BTW at about 12:40 you talk about a 5/16" hole for bearing. I believe the bearings are 608 bearings with an outside diameter of 22mm. A 5/16" hole will only be 8mm. Don't we need a 7/8" hole for the bearing? Am I missing something. Can you please clarify and help. Thanks a lot in advance.
Thanks. Honestly, I don't remember, but by all means, make it the right size for the bearing you have! 🙂
If you have a wood lathe, you can also make sanding drums to fit onto it - without having to build something to resist sideways pressure, as lathes are designed for that...and you use the whole length of the sanding drum, and if make your own (on the lathe, you can make them as big/small as you like or for specific jobs.... You can also fit polishing mops etc...👍🏻
Thanks for the comment, and that sounds awesome!
Nice Follow up Dan and a solution to a potential problem for some.
Thanks!
Excellent post, youn man! Thank you.
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 😄
Good come back video, and me like you don't have the $$ to buy a spindle sander so this will definitely work for me. thanks.
Thanks! That's awesome!
Aside from the money. It's nice to conserve every bit of space and make this a multifunctional tool 😎
@@Bonezz024 Boy is that true!
Thanks Dan. I'm in the process of making mine. One problem, I could only get bearings with an inside diameter of 12mm and my drill press can only take up to 10mm. This means the bolt will not sit tight inside the bearing, causing it to wobble (it's impossible to get it centered). Any ideas how to overcome this?
You might be able to find a nylon spacer the right size, but I wouldn't count on it. Honestly, you can probably live without the bearing, as long as you don't use too much pressure from the side. Just keep an eye on the drill, and make sure you don't see it start to wobble over time.
You sound so much like the Pete Smith narration of the 1940's newsreels. Excellent work still.
That's funny. I was working on another video where I thought I sounded so much like an infomercial, I was tempted to do a mock-infomercial. Except of course people might assume I was actually shilling something! 😂
Very good and helpful video. Your link to the drill press, however, is incorrect. Otherwise, great job. Thanks.
Thanks! And thanks for the heads-up about the link - it means a lot when someone bothers to point out those things. It's corrected now. And now I have a good reason to fix how I store the links, so it's harder to make this mistake. :)
Love This! Thanks for sharing it with us.
Thanks, and you're welcome! 😄
Hi Dan. I’m interested in making a selection of drums for my drill pres. Just wondering though,.. what’s the minimum Horse power you would recommend for the press and what rpm rsnge would you say is best for these drums? I have a feeling I may be up for a new drill press
I'm not sure it matters, if you're patient. Just see if what you have works, and if it doesn't, then you have your answer. But if you're looking for an excuse to buy a new drill press, then of course your current one is inadequate. 😂Everyone needs to buy new tools whenever they get the chance. 😄
Really appreciate your videos. Thank you very much
Thanks! I appreciate the comment!
You think a cheap drill press like a WEN Drill Press 2.3-Amp 5-Speed Bench 4208t would work? Wondering if it'd be worh the trouble 🤔
As long as you don't put too much stress in it. Take your time and let the sandpaper do the work.
Nice explanation, well done my friend.
Do you have a video about your drill press table?
Greetz Danny from Holland
Thanks! I'll be building a new drill press table shortly, and I'll do a build on it. Hopefully - you know how other things come up when you have plans. :)
I don't see how in the world that could hurt the drill press.
I made my own sanding drums using a hole saw and stacking and gluing them together and wrapping them with sanding belt segments, put in a quarter inch bolt that was too small. when I put too much pressure on the side of the sanding drum it bent the bolt and I had to straighten it and I put larger bolts through my sanding drums to fix the problem.
Since I'm left-handed I try to use my drill press running counterclockwise whenever possible.
Who says that drill presses have to be right-handed!
I love the directional switch that I just put on my 1937 Delta drill press.
I'm finding more uses for it all the time.
The booklet that came with my drill press has two chapters on routing and shaping wood on the drill press. I'm looking forward to doing a lot of that. I've already made some knobs and handles on it.
I am currently looking for ideas on building a drill press table.
The only thing I can say is that the drill press is built for vertical pressure, not horizontal pressure. So although I don't know what might go wrong, I can see that *something* might go wrong. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker drill press quills are built pretty beefy for side pressure. Just like a wood lathe. Of course they are built for side pressure. It would be an extremely crappy drill if it wasn't. That's exactly why the quill is build so much bigger and stronger than the spindle.
They even sell special slide tables for drill presses to turn them into milling machines so you can Mill metal items on them, and you know that puts a lot of side pressure on them. A hell of a lot more than any sanding drum could ever put on them. Otherwise my drill press owners manual would not recommend and give demonstrations on how to route on the drill press with fences and jigs.
It seems like almost nobody knows what a great router table drill presses make.
Try looking up an old book called "Getting The Most Out Of Your Drill Press" published by Delta.
I downloaded a copy of another Delta owners manual that had more about routing than my book did.
It even shows how to disassemble the drill press and reassemble it so that the motor and head piece are upside down underneath the drill table to use it like a regular standard router table. But it mostly shows how to use the standard configuration of the drill press for routing.
If it could not be done safely they certainly would not put it in their owner's manual. They would be sued all over the place!!!
Just saying.
Have fun. 😃
@@TF856 Thanks for the info. Truthfully, I'm just going by things some people have said, and more importantly, covering my butt in case someone damages their drill press. 😄
Very clever. Congratulations.
Thanks!
Turned out great. Nice work.
Thanks, and thanks for the ideas!
Cheap way to get bearings is to buy a couple of fidget spinners,which you can buy for £1 each nowadays, four bearings per spinner
That's a good idea! The only issue is whether you can find a washer the right size, but it's certainly worth a try. Thanks for sharing.
That is a great idea! My child collected more than she needed and now (of course) 2yrs later they are completely abandoned. I was going to get rid of them before reading your comment. Thanks!
I like your jig coz it's very small thus easy to store. I also have these drums and I find it hard to have the shaft centered. Any tips? Do you make one for each drum size? Any downside using smaller drum with the larger hole of the top layer?
Thanks. I'm not sure why you're having trouble centering the shaft, so I don't have any help for you there. I don't have one for *each* drum, but I do have a separate one for the smallest drum (or maybe the separate one is for the 2 smallest drums - I can't remember right now), for the exact reason you mentioned.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker looking at my biggest drum, the rubber is about 1/4" thick thus leaving a much bigger hole in the center for the shaft. The exact position of the shaft depends on the location of washers sandwiching it. Not an issue with the smaller ones. Thanks for your quick reply as always 👍
@@b3arwithm3 Huh. Oh well, you'll figure something out, I'm sure. We call this "fun", right? 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I have it figured out. All the extra rubber on yours, it is the difference between a $26 set and $10 set 🤣
At 8:25 I see your drum has a small center hole.
@@b3arwithm3 Interesting!
im 10 second in and i love the NOT ME / DOH ( INFOMERCIAL MOCK in the tv)
😂
This is exactly what I was looking for to avoid purchasing an oscillating spindle sander But this will take a lot more time obviously to make the jig.
It's always a tradeoff. Also depends on whether you have the space for the spindle sander.
Pretty slick. Thanks for sharing
Thanks, and you're welcome! 😄
Very informative & entertaining.
Thanks! 😄
Hi Dan, what did you use to clean the sanding drums? Thanks
amzn.to/2CcB93Z
Where did you get that wide mouth opening thing to attach to your vacuum hose....thanks.....rookie myself
I probably got it from Rockler, but here's a ling to something similar on Amazon: amzn.to/3bG9Lh3
Fanatastic! Thank you, some great ideas there that I also can use in other situations :-)
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
Are you using 5/16 forstner bit to drill the hole for the bearing? I thought the outside diameter of the bearing is 22mm which is about 7/8 inch, right?
Yes, you're absolutely correct. 5/16" is the size of the bolts, not the size of the bearings. Oops. 😳 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Thank you for the confirmation! Waiting for the bearings to arrive to build this thing :-)
@@leonardoxiao Awesome. By the way, never assume I know what I'm talking about. There's a reason my logo is a screaming saw blade. 😂
Clever idea using two boards in a hole saw to make the counterbore.
Thanks! Took me a while to figure out how to make a counterbore of that size, without spending a lot of money on big forstner bit.
Another great video
Thanks!
Dan, I wonder if you can tell me where you got the small-diameter 5/16 washer to sit around the bearings. In Canada, it seems we can only get the larger-diameter 5/16 washer. I tried 1/4” brass washers, and tried to drill out the hole to 5/16”, with mixed success, but all fingers intact. TIA
Actually, I don't know. It was in my box of washers. But here's some suggestions:
1) You *might* be able to find a metric-sized washer that will work.
2) If you want to try drilling out a washer, use a "step drill bit" like this: amzn.to/2KGTABe. I'm not necessarily recommending this particular bit, I'm just showing you what I mean. And I've never tried this, but I saw a video that mentioned it.
3) Another option is to attach the larger washer to a bolt, sandwiched between a couple of nuts. Then place it in your drill press, turn on the drill press, and hold a file to it until you get it ground down enough. If not a file, try sandpaper attached to a sanding block. Move it around a lot. You'll need to rest your hand on your drill press table, or something, to keep it stable enough against the washer. Don't forget to round the edges a little so you don't cut yourself. :)
Let me know if any of this helps.
I hate having hardware whose source is unknown ! 😀. I will definitely work on these options, and let you know what I had success with
LOL. Cool.
Ian - Which skateboard bearings did you get?
Looks like I may have gotten the “cheaper” ones you had linked to, but have since removed. 8*16 Rubber Sealed Ball Bearings 8*16*5 688-2RS (Advantage Racing Products) from Amazon.ca. I believe I have found appropriately sized washers on Amazon... 8mm ID, 12mm OD which SHOULD stay off the outside ring ... looks like I won’t get them until end of August, so won’t have a confirmation on how they fit until then, but will let you know.
Very helpful - thank you.
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
Dan, I can tell you are quiet mechanically minded. So, here is a challenge. See if you can come up with a rope or cable that fastens to your drill press arm and runs down to a treadle or foot pedal that will let you oscillate your sanding drum with your foot. You may have to give up your lower bearing, although I'll bet you can figure out how to keep it. I believe with your drill press you can set upper and lower spindle limits. Good luck with the challenge.
I think someone else has done this - I think I remember seeing a video on this. But no, I'm not mechanically minded like that. Sorry to burst your bubble. 😛
This press has worked like a charm for my projects ruclips.net/user/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!
Awesome! Glad I could help. 🙂
Thank Dan.
You're quite welcome! 🙂
Nice
Thanks! 🙂
That’s cool!
Thanks! 😄
By the way, the previous comment was from me. RUclips signed me in using my other RUclips ID without my noticing.
"not me" Lmfao
😂
can u not use a drill press and a normal drill
You could, but it would be hard to hold it in place.
Awesome
Thanks!
One thing to watch out for is your drill press unexpectedly busting a kickflip if using those bearings 🤭
👍
12:50 bought a second "Spade" woodrill (cause they are cheap+fast)
so i can sand this drill down to have a tight fit
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit#/media/File:Spade_bits.JPG
I'm not thrilled with those kinds of bits, but I think this is a good use for one. Thanks for the comment.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker i love them xD, whats the issue / what do you prefer instead?
@@hyperhektor7733 They just seem dangerous to me, but that may be a personal issue. I prefer Forstner bits or hole saws. But again, that's probably just me.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker i forgot to add they are good with handheld drills since they need can cut with less pressure (in comparison to forstner) but instead with higher speed. Also they dont need a perfect straight drilling angle to work. Sure not optimal for delicate work with the fingers close nearby, but exept that case they are fast,cheap and good in handheld drilling.
I grinded 3 of them for ball bearings
inside diameter of the bearings:
(6mm = = 626zz = 19mm drill )
(8mm = 608zz bearing = 22mm drill)
10mm = 6200zz bearing = 26mm drill)
@@hyperhektor7733 Thanks for the info. I think I must have gotten one stuck in the wood a long time ago, because I have a vague memory (or fear) of the bit getting caught and ripping the drill out of my hand. But I'm glad they work for you! 😄
like it very much
Thanks!
Thank u
You're quite welcome! 🙂
Dan, why not just put the drum on a router?
I don't know, I never thought about it! 😄
The RPM’s on a router are way to fast for a drum sander.
@@batmann539 👍
Good ideas.So you don’t have $125 for the correct sander or a quality used one if you can find it and you make money from RUclips?This should be titled “the cheapskate way to drum sand”
LOL. It's not the money, it's the space. I just don't have anywhere to put it. One of these days I'll build a new workbench, including a flip-top section to hold a spindle sander. But not today. :)