I watched and then followed your video instructions and was able to replace the blower control module on my husband’s truck. He has shoulder trouble so the job was on me. Thank you so much for your wonderful instructions. I am sure we saved some money by being able to replace it ourselves. By the way, I am a 68 year old grandmother so that lets you know just how good your video was. Thank you so much.
Went to replace the mod, ended up finding a mouse nest under the cover! He had started chewing on the wires. Replaced it anyway with your help. Thanks man.
Thank you very much, this was exactly the issue I was having with my Yukon XL Denali, and I did exactly what you said and was able to fix it myself. I took it to the experts to look at it first, and they said the part I cut out was the wrong part, and that it would cost me $400+ to replace it. I decided to keep going with your video, paid $60 for the part you mentioned, and fixed it myself! Thank you very much!
I have a question for you do you think a 2003 Hummer would be pretty much the same fix for my blower motor out of the blue today I started my car went to the store got out of the store and my blower motor is not shutting off got home and my blower motor is not shutting off I used the 40 amp fuse and unplugged it and it turned the blower motor off but I don't want to have to keep taking my 40 amp fuse in and out I live in Colorado and it's cold LOL thank you if you have time to answer this
@@ThecardoctorTVI replaced my blower motor and this module and when I start my car my fan still runs constantly on high even if I shut my H2 Hummer off it keeps running do you think I got a bad module or do I need to replace the control in the dash
What's up Tim. I replaced my module today, first time. Quick tip to offer you on that pesky cover bolt. If you just loosen that inside bolt the cover will come down and swing out of the way with plenty of room to access and replace the module. You don't have to completely remove the cover. Took me 20 minutes total to complete the job.
Thank you for the diagnosis and fix. I just found a really nice loaded ‘04 Tahoe that had been in storage for a few years and it only has 100k miles. It had this issue upon putting in a new battery and I was able to know what to do thanks to you. I was also able to negotiate the price down another $600 because of the existing problem. $178 in parts and it was fixed in 20 minutes. Also, you absolutely don’t have to remove the screw closest to the center console. Easy. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video. When my fan all of sudden turned on and wouldn't shut off in my 2005 Yukon SLE I figured it was the resistor / module. I replaced one in my Ford Escape a few years ago and new what I was in for. Your video made it easy and I had the entire project finshed in 35 minutes for under $65 with next day shipping from Amazon. Thanks for helping teach people how to do things for themselves!
Perfect video! Helped us figure out our problem with our 2003 Yukon. Blower motor stayed on last night outta the blue when I came home and this morning the battery was dead. Your video was the first to pop up when I searched it on RUclips. Was the perfect fix. Thank you! 👍👍
Just had to put one in my 05 2500 service truck today. That cover is flexible enough that I did not have to mess with that screw above the hump. I actually watched your channel yesturday to diagnose the problem. Saved me 105 today in my area.
Great video! Exactly what I needed. No BS just a straight up fix. As someone else commented that third difficult screw just needs to be a little loose and the cover drops down out of the way enough to make this repair. The most difficult part was making sure I got the right part. Looks like a lot of “bootleg” parts out there. I stuck with GM. Thanks again!
i guess im asking the wrong place but does someone know a trick to get back into an instagram account? I was dumb forgot my account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Aldo Princeton i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I`ve done this repair many times, and the thing that many other people with this same problem are unaware of, is that a lot of retailers are still selling the original style crappy modules with the 3-wire plug......nothing like repairing your vehicle with a prone failure part and finding out afterward there was an upgraded part available. This video should help many people from making that mistake, although I recently pulled a bad module from a vehicle that had the upgraded version with a 5-wire plug......but at least when it failed, the blower motor didn`t stay on all the time, it just quit working altogether.
When it comes to removing the housing cover, remove the two far right retaining screws, and leave the third in place. The cover unit is flexible, allowing it to be moved out of the way. This presented no issues for myself in changing the module, nor damaged my cover. Just a consideration.
Thank you. I'm going to give this a try on my 03 suburban. Woke up to a dead battery and when I charged it the front blower would not shut off so i had to pull the fuse. Video is straight to the point
So I just did this on my 05 Yukon. Instead of cutting the old connector off the factory harness, I removed the pins from the factory plug and also removed the the three splice wires from the replacement plug. I then inserted the factory wires into the new plug and finshed the module install. I'd recommend this only after you fully inspect the factory wires to make sure they are not burnt or damaged in any way.
Thanks! You saved the day. Easy repair. Left that 3rd bolt in place, and just moved the cover to the side...used the same color connectors you did for the wires...and I've got heat! Keep the videos coming, and thanks again.
Thank you for this great video. 2004 Envoy replaced resistor with your help. Had to remove the glove box because my old frame doesn't bend that well. Tip: if you do remove the glove box, reinstall it before installing the bottom cover. Left cover screw was a bear as you said so loosely screwed in the right screw first then shoved the cover up in place as hard as I could and lo and behold, the left screw went right in. Again, thanks for a great video.
Hi Tim, I had to to this on my Suburban, it was good to see that I did it like a Professional would. I have had problems with butt connectors so I soldered and shrink wraped mine, but other than that it was the same, I left that screw out, in fact I threw the screw as far as i could, no rattles yet, after about 20,000 miles, so I am pretty sure it will be that way forever. Thanks, see ya next time.
+joel mccoin Sounds like you went above and beyond on yours with the solder and shrink tubing. I am checking on how much it would cost to put a screw into orbit aboard a space launch for the next one I do just for good measure.
My brother-in-law's vehicle just did this! Went driving last night and noticed the there was a slight breeze coming out of the vents. The truck was dead this morning. Glad to know it was this module and what needs to be done.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. This happened to my sisters car but thanks to you we were able to fix it. Summers are brutal in south Florida. You saved us a lot of misery. God bless you.
Thank you bud. This was exactly what I was needing. I also appreciate the tip at the end, always helpful to have a reminder to not only throw money at the truck, but also look over things while you're in there. Thank you.
My 2005 has all kinds of electrical gremlins. The heat will suddenly turn on when running the a/c and the only way to shut it off is to turn off ignition and restart the truck. the heated seats will turn on and ill turn off only for them to turn on again, over and over. i havent found the solution to that one. luckily its fairly rare. Now the auto HVAC system is tripping, turning on at 74° though its hot air blowing and now the blower motor wont turn off just like shown in this video. Way to go GM. I had similiar electrical/dash/HVAC issues in my '87 chevy, '91 chevy ,'99 chevy and 2002 chevy. consistency is a sign of quality! uuuugghh.......
My 05 Chevy just did this... Took fuse out to keep blower off... This looks fairly straght forward.. Thanks for the tips... Even if I take it somewhere I know it's not that serious and shouldn't cost a fortune...
Had my blower motor fail to start on an 04 avalanche. The cause was water leakage from the plastic panel under the cowl leaking into the passenger footwear. Water froze the blower motor and blew the fuse. Fixed water leak and replaced blower motor (previously squeaky) and blown fuse. On fuse install, blower ran full tilt. Looks like this is the last step in fixing all of it. Thanks!
In FL these burn up all the time, I never had it stay on but i had them not work or it looses some speeds. I have the white module now, They made a black plastic updated module, that one only lasted 2 years before it melted the connector. I believe that the high heat, constant AC use and moisture from the evaporator shorts it out. Its just too extreme here , its not designed for this climate. The 40amp weird cartridge fuse under the hoods fuse box will stop the blower from running if it happens at a bad time. , Remove it to stop it. I have that same Crimper I wore it out. now it has blue grips :) ya snap on. Its easier to disconnect the power connector on the blower motor when you remove it. Tab and a turn. I think all I did for removal was the two screws on the lower dash cover and i had enough free play on a GMC truck with the console to sneak it out. Alot of trade in vehicles I drove had INOP blowers. Trade it in when the blower stops, no AC new car, lol $$ So far, 115k, 10 years, I am on 3 blower modules which includes the factory part. Oh, One time I replaced the blower motor too. Korean Delphi motor!
Good tips. Blowers get a workout here in Alaska too. Maybe not all the moisture you get. I'm going to try getting it out without removing the last screw next time. It's crazy the way people give up on their vehicle when something silly breaks. They should do some math first. Crazy.
The Car Doctor Even if a car needs a engine, its cheaper to fix it than to replace it! Even if the car is worth under 5k and the engine is whatever, add up what you can buy for what the vehicle is worth + repair and what condition may it be in. Cant fix stupid. Ya in Alaska at-least you have cool air flowing in from the outside. I try to run recirc as much as i can. Nothing broke when I was living in the NYC area! Just suspension parts
The Car Doctor Its nice around that time. Crowded, but it always is in Miami. I used to go over there to pickup cars, out in homestead its cool, alot of nothing.
Thanks for the helpful video which included the OEM part number. My husband appreciated your video and was able to handle the repair himself on his 2006 Chevy Silverado 2500HD.
Thank you sooo much!! Was exactly the issue I was having and it worked. Called the shop and they want 400 plus to fix it my son did it for me no labor charge and part was $40 at junk yard.
Thanks for the repair directions! I just finished just like you said thank you Parts at the dealership was about $90 2006 Silverado 2500! Thank you I did only have to take two black screws off and it did access the black modular!
Awesome this worked perfectly and quickly for me. 2003 Chev Avalanche. I ordered the part on Rock Auto took 3 days to get here and finally have my heat working for winter !! Thanks so much!
I have a 2005 Escalade. My blower did not work at all. I replaced the resistor and it worked perfect for a couple of days. Now the blower stays on high always and it continues to run after shutting the car off.
I remember when my brother bought a 90 F150 with the old thick film ignition module mounted on the distributor I got him the special wrench and a module to keep in his glovebox. It wasn't long before he needed it! Always good to be prepared. Take it easy.
Thank you for the help I needed in getting the correct part. I did not remove that screw on the left of the case. Just moved the housing to the left, which gave me room to work on the wires'.
To remove the cover. I took the two screws out that I could get to. For the one closest to the center consul I just left that one loose enough to pull the black plastic cover down far enough to work on the control module. It did not take long at all I didn’t break anything everything came apart and went back together vary nicely and fast
You made that look really easy there Tim which just means you're a skilled craftsman. Looks like that old module caught you off guard at the end of the video LOL. Have a good one and best wishes to you and your family.
+stuzman52 Hey thanks, I have been called worse than a skilled craftsman for sure. Some days I feel more like a old tired mechanic who is loosing his mind and patience. I really did spend at least 15-20 minutes putting that last screw in. Its always such a pain and you have to lay sideways and act like a acrobat just to get that sucker in there. I think I invented a few new words along the way!
I stuck the screw thru a piece of electrical tape and then down to the socket and that helped a bunch... Thanks for the video it got me Goin in bout an hour...
Last week I went to the corner store with my a/c on. Turned my truck off and went in. When I started my vehicle to head home, everything was normal when I started smelling electrical burning. Pulled over but couldn't find where it was coming from. Since the vehicle was running normal and I was 2 minutes from home, I went ahead and drove it home. When I arrived and shut off my vehicle, I noticed the blower motor wasn't shutting off. I tried a few different things but ultimately decided not to mess with it that night. When unplugging the blower, I noticed the wires were very hot. I haven't messed with it all week because of work. Noticing you know more than the average bear, I figured I'd ask before I started taking it apart if you had any idea what I'm getting into. Or do you know something that'll point me in the right direction. Sorry this was long.... Thank you...
The blower motor is likely bad drawing excessive amperage and overheating the wiring. I would replace the blower with OE along with the wiring and module. Good luck
The Car Doctor Actually the one thing i forgot to mention in my message was that the blower was making a whining sound for the first minute or so when I'd turn the vehicle on. I think you're right on the money. I'll go that route. Thanks for the advice. I'll let you know how it turns out.
I did the permanent fix for it my blower motor turning off and on intermmitently on my 2003 Silverado. I bought an "add a circuit." I bought the 30 amp one. I pulled the 30 amp fuse out in the cab for the heater/AC hvac system and plugged in the add a circuit that has 2, 30 amp fuses in it with a pig tail coming out of it. I connected 8 ft of 14 gauge electrical wire to it with a butt connector. I ran the other end to the blower motor on the passenger side of the cab. I cut the pig tail off of the blower motor(the blower motor just has 2 wires coming out of it. A red and a black wire. I connected it to the red wire. The black wire on the blower motor I connected an eyelet to it and connected it to one of the glove box hinge screws which was a good ground. I cut the 8 ft piece of wire right above the transfer case shifter and installed a toggle switch from walmart. Now I can turn my blower motor off and on with that toggle switch. I only have high fan speed, but I don't care.
Thank you so much, After watching your video it narrowed down the problem with my Hummer H2. It was exactly what you said it was and I bought the Part online for $26. Of course this is after pulling my entire dashboard apart to get to the Climate control unit.lol.
I get so much crap from my boss and other guys in the shop when I struggle with a stupid bolt. But at the end of the day they all understand, I hope lol. I'm sure this video will help someone out. Thanks for the video.
+Michael Herbert IM glad I don't have any other techs in the shop right now. Also glad my pastor didn't walk up when I was struggling with it...I might have to leave the church!
Thanks car doctor u just gave me some more information about the issue I'm having with my chevy blazer with the a/c blower motor staying on after turning truck off.
Just watched you video... going to order the part and attempt this myself. I'm not very skilled at this kind of work... but I don't have the money right now to pay someone to do it. I'll let you know if I'm successful.
Hey someone has probably said this but i just did mine watching your video. Anyways on the tricky screw I did not take it out all the way and I was able to slide the panel out of the way, was not too bad to put back in. Hope this helps
Hiii my good friend; TIM!!!!! GREATINGS FROM Puerto Rico..The most common error or fault that the "DIY" do; is that when changing the "control module" or the "blower"! They never do an "amp test" at the blower and control module harness. VERY important step! WHY? Because if someone puts a new a/c blower and have an a/c module that its "woking" but its consuming to much amp, your going to fry the harness and the blower to! AND VICEVERSA..
+pedro l rivera negron You sure are a firm believer in amp drop testing. I get the feeling that if they ever needed to get those paddles out and jump start your heart you might ask them if they did a voltage drop test before they shocked you back to life...just kidding. We sure could avoid a lot of unnecessary wrong parts replacement if we took your advise. In this case it was a common case of fried module and the updated part got him back on the road. If I had seen any melted wires I would have replaced the blower motor as well when I was in there. Always appreciate your input sir! Take care.
Wes That 3rd screw wasn't easy to get out the wife with small hands got it in about 2 min. I wasn't going to put it back in but the wife said let me try so I put silicone on the socket and the screw let it set she with her small hands got the screw back in and took her about 2 min. thanks for the video
You saved me tons of money! Thanks for the vide, bought the part off amazon for 35. The dealership wanted 180 just for the blower motor kit. Got a 05 Chevy 1500. Thanks for the video.
Thanks I will try this. My 05 Silverado has eaten a half dozen batteries over the years guess maybe this is the cause. About a year ago I caught it in the act and I cycled the controls over and over until it stopped. The fan hasn't worked since.
Awesome, Awesome! thank you for this video. I too have a 2005 Chevy Tahoe with the same problem (blower won't turn off). Unfortunately, I replaced the battery before I realized the fan was stuck on...probably not a big deal as the battery was 5 years old. Nevertheless, this video was very informative and helped me fix it myself. Found the exact same part on Amazon for $49. Replaced it in 15 minutes Tip: that third screw that is so hard to get to...I unscrewed it only partially, which was allow me to complete the project without removing the cover completely. I can only imaging how difficult it would be to get it back in if you unscrew it all the way. very easy to screw back in with only partially unscrewed.
If it’s on service recall for updating then your local GM dealership should be responsible for replacing it. On the inner screw you could replace it with a stud and nut.
+Ed B. You would think they would make it a little easier since its a part that blows out all the time. IM sure this updated part will fix it for good. TrailBlazers sure are different. Be sure to watch my water pump video if you ever need to do one. It will save you some hassle.
Does the control module have to be the updated version? I ordered the exact same one that is in it now which is the old one you show in this video. Replaced blower also and it still stays on when vehicle is shut off
Thanks for the video! Very informative and helpful! Now I need to replace my module! I just learned of this issue with my 07 Silverado. The control was at first not working on 1but ok on 2 then it eventually quit working on anything but 5 and then I discovered it not shutting off, then I ended up killing the battery. I got it to shut off and talked to my brother for a little while. Went back to cab, then yep, blasting away. So I'll need to yank the fuse under the hood and I may as well replace battery ( factory battery believe it or not) but I'll try recharging to get it home. It's only 1/2 block away. So yep. I'll get her home and then fix it when I can.
My truck has a constant got to the fan high. Like there's a short or a relay stuck. My module has a relay built into it as soon as I plug it in it engaged the relay. I only had high. I cut the wire now I have all but high. Is there another relay pressing to the module itself
The screw next to the console does not have to be removed for this installation ,the plastic sheild is flexible enough to bend out of the way to get the job done..
I have a 2000 Suburban that is doing the same thing in the rear HVAC. I changed out the moduel or relay but still have the same problem with the rear blower.
Hi! Okay, so last year, this video was extremely helpful last year when my blower motor control module (resistor?) had to be replaced. Fan stayed on after key removed, replaced blower control module and it worked fine. Now Present day... Same thing happens, assumed blower control module was bad again, replaced it. That was not it. Replaced the blower motor relay.. That was not it. Took my car to local mechanic, he checked everything, said wiring looked good, said he would get someone to check the climate control module but he didn't have anything to test that. So I go and buy a new climate control module ($186) and that was not the problem either. Mechanic said all the wiring was good. WTH can it be now??? I've seen in your comments that it could be a bad "blower motor" so my question is if the blower motor was bad would it still stay on with the key out of the ignition??
Don't know how u bought a part if mechanic didn't test it or was sure what was wrong with it check out( south main auto repair ) on you tube he posted plenty of videos on a/c repairs plus if you email him he might help you out . Just saw a video about the control fan speed not working all the speeds and there was a short in the relay on one of the wires once he replace it tested it it worked .also have to let it reset, after installing any part u rrplace specially with the a/c system is a headache. I just started having problems with mine too I think I'll be doing some estra work too after this video game some more info. Sorry for the long message. Thanks
I have a 2001 Suburban LS. Same issue - fan runs max speed with key out. Removed the HVAC fuse. Stopped problem (fan on with key out) and I have the 4 lower speeds - just not 5th speed. I believe mine is a different part than the '03-'09 that you talked about here. Would this still point to the blower resistor module? Thank you!
I changed everything like you said and it worked but a month later it started doing the same thing again. Blower won’t turn off after turning the truck off. Now I’m stuck and don’t know how to fix it
I’ve replaced 2 of these in my Escalade. This now would be my third. They last me about a month. Do you recommend replacing the motor as well now then?
I found an easier way to do the third screw on the plastic cover... I only loosened the screw maybe 3 turns leaving it still attached... Allowed me to pull the cover out of the way and all I had to do was tighten up when done! Entire job took 20mins
This repair can be done without removing that one hard screw - just loosen it and the black cover will swivel out of the way while laying on the floor of the vehicle
Why does my harness have so many more wires than yours? I have a red, orange, black, green, purple, yellow, and a peach color. All in that order. What should I do with the extra wires? I'm not sure what they are. I have a 2004 Tahoe.
Thanks for the help, I treid to change mine . Got new one at NAPA. Didn't work. I went to my fav shop McDonalds Auto Repair Hebron Ohio and it was the small black relay that is next to it on Chevy S10 2000. LOL the last shop that looked at it gave me a 2 hr estimate to look in the dash LOL.
Smashing repair, should be ok now, that aluminium heatsink looked decent. I do find the fact that the module allways has power odd, i would have thought it would be switched, but thats designers for you lol. Ive tryed stripping wire with crimpers, just a pain in the butt, i roll the wire on a penknife blade, then it comes clean off. For cooler countrys (uk), i would bolt that module direct to the firewall, big heatsink lol.
+zx8401ztv OK that's an idea. I guess they figure the air circulation is enough. They make some really nice wire strippers but I just never invested in them. I also use a razor sometimes especially in tight places to remove the insulation. I almost put the last screw in an envelope and mailed it to England along with an autographed picture of me with a mean look on my face after fighting that blasted bugger for at least 30 minutes before I finally got it!
+The Car Doctor LOL the last screw is allways a bugger, ive repaired laptop/netbook computers and ended up with a couple of screws left over :-). Well they put too many in anyway :) . As far as the air circulation cooling the active device enough, im not sure it does, thats one of the reasons they fail. Heat = Death for electronics, same for most things really. Well perhaps not your dinner ha ha :-D
I watched and then followed your video instructions and was able to replace the blower control module on my husband’s truck. He has shoulder trouble so the job was on me. Thank you so much for your wonderful instructions. I am sure we saved some money by being able to replace it ourselves. By the way, I am a 68 year old grandmother so that lets you know just how good your video was. Thank you so much.
I need to know you!!… haha.. you have the right stuff
Went to replace the mod, ended up finding a mouse nest under the cover! He had started chewing on the wires. Replaced it anyway with your help. Thanks man.
Awesome!
Thank you very much, this was exactly the issue I was having with my Yukon XL Denali, and I did exactly what you said and was able to fix it myself. I took it to the experts to look at it first, and they said the part I cut out was the wrong part, and that it would cost me $400+ to replace it. I decided to keep going with your video, paid $60 for the part you mentioned, and fixed it myself! Thank you very much!
Super cool! Thanks for watching
I have a question for you do you think a 2003 Hummer would be pretty much the same fix for my blower motor out of the blue today I started my car went to the store got out of the store and my blower motor is not shutting off got home and my blower motor is not shutting off I used the 40 amp fuse and unplugged it and it turned the blower motor off but I don't want to have to keep taking my 40 amp fuse in and out I live in Colorado and it's cold LOL thank you if you have time to answer this
@@ThecardoctorTVI replaced my blower motor and this module and when I start my car my fan still runs constantly on high even if I shut my H2 Hummer off it keeps running do you think I got a bad module or do I need to replace the control in the dash
What's up Tim. I replaced my module today, first time. Quick tip to offer you on that pesky cover bolt. If you just loosen that inside bolt the cover will come down and swing out of the way with plenty of room to access and replace the module. You don't have to completely remove the cover. Took me 20 minutes total to complete the job.
Thank you for the diagnosis and fix. I just found a really nice loaded ‘04 Tahoe that had been in storage for a few years and it only has 100k miles. It had this issue upon putting in a new battery and I was able to know what to do thanks to you. I was also able to negotiate the price down another $600 because of the existing problem. $178 in parts and it was fixed in 20 minutes. Also, you absolutely don’t have to remove the screw closest to the center console. Easy. Thanks again.
No. You dont have to remove the screw. But its more fun if you do.
Thank you for these kinds of videos! Folks love fixing things themselves and knowledge is the greatest tool in the shop.
Thanks for the video. When my fan all of sudden turned on and wouldn't shut off in my 2005 Yukon SLE I figured it was the resistor / module. I replaced one in my Ford Escape a few years ago and new what I was in for. Your video made it easy and I had the entire project finshed in 35 minutes for under $65 with next day shipping from Amazon. Thanks for helping teach people how to do things for themselves!
That's great. Thank you for watching
Perfect diagnosis. Didn’t take too long to replace the module. Excellent instructions and walk thru… thank you!
Perfect video! Helped us figure out our problem with our 2003 Yukon. Blower motor stayed on last night outta the blue when I came home and this morning the battery was dead. Your video was the first to pop up when I searched it on RUclips. Was the perfect fix. Thank you! 👍👍
Just had to put one in my 05 2500 service truck today. That cover is flexible enough that I did not have to mess with that screw above the hump. I actually watched your channel yesturday to diagnose the problem. Saved me 105 today in my area.
Great video! Exactly what I needed. No BS just a straight up fix. As someone else commented that third difficult screw just needs to be a little loose and the cover drops down out of the way enough to make this repair. The most difficult part was making sure I got the right part. Looks like a lot of “bootleg” parts out there. I stuck with GM. Thanks again!
Thank you so much!
i guess im asking the wrong place but does someone know a trick to get back into an instagram account?
I was dumb forgot my account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Kellen Lincoln Instablaster :)
@Aldo Princeton i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Aldo Princeton it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out :D
I`ve done this repair many times, and the thing that many other people with this same problem are unaware of, is that a lot of retailers are still selling the original style crappy modules with the 3-wire plug......nothing like repairing your vehicle with a prone failure part and finding out afterward there was an upgraded part available. This video should help many people from making that mistake, although I recently pulled a bad module from a vehicle that had the upgraded version with a 5-wire plug......but at least when it failed, the blower motor didn`t stay on all the time, it just quit working altogether.
I just loossened the screw you are talking about and let the cover lay on the floor. The cover lined up very easily and tightened right up.
good call. Did that the other day and it worked great. Blessings!
Your video was a great help.
When it comes to removing the housing cover, remove the two far right retaining screws, and leave the third in place.
The cover unit is flexible, allowing it to be moved out of the way. This presented no issues for myself in changing the module, nor damaged my cover.
Just a consideration.
very good info. Thanks
Thank you. I'm going to give this a try on my 03 suburban. Woke up to a dead battery and when I charged it the front blower would not shut off so i had to pull the fuse. Video is straight to the point
Excellent
So I just did this on my 05 Yukon. Instead of cutting the old connector off the factory harness, I removed the pins from the factory plug and also removed the the three splice wires from the replacement plug. I then inserted the factory wires into the new plug and finshed the module install. I'd recommend this only after you fully inspect the factory wires to make sure they are not burnt or damaged in any way.
Thanks! You saved the day. Easy repair. Left that 3rd bolt in place, and just moved the cover to the side...used the same color connectors you did for the wires...and I've got heat! Keep the videos coming, and thanks again.
thank you so much
Thank you for this great video. 2004 Envoy replaced resistor with your help. Had to remove the glove box because my old frame doesn't bend that well. Tip: if you do remove the glove box, reinstall it before installing the bottom cover. Left cover screw was a bear as you said so loosely screwed in the right screw first then shoved the cover up in place as hard as I could and lo and behold, the left screw went right in. Again, thanks for a great video.
Hi Tim, I had to to this on my Suburban, it was good to see that I did it like a Professional would. I have had problems with butt connectors so I soldered and shrink wraped mine, but other than that it was the same, I left that screw out, in fact I threw the screw as far as i could, no rattles yet, after about 20,000 miles, so I am pretty sure it will be that way forever. Thanks, see ya next time.
+joel mccoin Sounds like you went above and beyond on yours with the solder and shrink tubing. I am checking on how much it would cost to put a screw into orbit aboard a space launch for the next one I do just for good measure.
My brother-in-law's vehicle just did this! Went driving last night and noticed the there was a slight breeze coming out of the vents. The truck was dead this morning. Glad to know it was this module and what needs to be done.
This is the best damn auto repair site on the web, great host!!! Keep it up.
Thanks Jeff!
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. This happened to my sisters car but thanks to you we were able to fix it. Summers are brutal in south Florida. You saved us a lot of misery. God bless you.
Thank you bud. This was exactly what I was needing. I also appreciate the tip at the end, always helpful to have a reminder to not only throw money at the truck, but also look over things while you're in there.
Thank you.
My 2005 has all kinds of electrical gremlins.
The heat will suddenly turn on when running the a/c and the only way to shut it off is to turn off ignition and restart the truck.
the heated seats will turn on and ill turn off only for them to turn on again, over and over. i havent found the solution to that one. luckily its fairly rare.
Now the auto HVAC system is tripping, turning on at 74° though its hot air blowing and now the blower motor wont turn off just like shown in this video.
Way to go GM. I had similiar electrical/dash/HVAC issues in my '87 chevy, '91 chevy ,'99 chevy and 2002 chevy.
consistency is a sign of quality! uuuugghh.......
Why upgrade it if the OEM lasted over 10 years? I would rather just plug the OEM one in and be done. Or does that not fix it??
Just wanted to say a big thank you! I followed your instructions exactly and now it’s fixed! Very grateful for your video!
Where is Scott Shoemaker from? I have a cousin with that name.
My 05 Chevy just did this... Took fuse out to keep blower off... This looks fairly straght forward.. Thanks for the tips... Even if I take it somewhere I know it's not that serious and shouldn't cost a fortune...
Had my blower motor fail to start on an 04 avalanche. The cause was water leakage from the plastic panel under the cowl leaking into the passenger footwear. Water froze the blower motor and blew the fuse. Fixed water leak and replaced blower motor (previously squeaky) and blown fuse. On fuse install, blower ran full tilt. Looks like this is the last step in fixing all of it. Thanks!
In FL these burn up all the time, I never had it stay on but i had them not work or it looses some speeds. I have the white module now, They made a black plastic updated module, that one only lasted 2 years before it melted the connector. I believe that the high heat, constant AC use and moisture from the evaporator shorts it out. Its just too extreme here , its not designed for this climate. The 40amp weird cartridge fuse under the hoods fuse box will stop the blower from running if it happens at a bad time. , Remove it to stop it. I have that same Crimper I wore it out. now it has blue grips :) ya snap on. Its easier to disconnect the power connector on the blower motor when you remove it. Tab and a turn. I think all I did for removal was the two screws on the lower dash cover and i had enough free play on a GMC truck with the console to sneak it out. Alot of trade in vehicles I drove had INOP blowers. Trade it in when the blower stops, no AC new car, lol $$ So far, 115k, 10 years, I am on 3 blower modules which includes the factory part. Oh, One time I replaced the blower motor too. Korean Delphi motor!
Good tips. Blowers get a workout here in Alaska too. Maybe not all the moisture you get. I'm going to try getting it out without removing the last screw next time. It's crazy the way people give up on their vehicle when something silly breaks. They should do some math first. Crazy.
The Car Doctor
Even if a car needs a engine, its cheaper to fix it than to replace it! Even if the car is worth under 5k and the engine is whatever, add up what you can buy for what the vehicle is worth + repair and what condition may it be in. Cant fix stupid. Ya in Alaska at-least you have cool air flowing in from the outside. I try to run recirc as much as i can. Nothing broke when I was living in the NYC area!
Just suspension parts
I'm looking forward to some FLA weather next Christmas when we take a cruise out of Miami.
The Car Doctor
Its nice around that time. Crowded, but it always is in Miami. I used to go over there to pickup cars, out in homestead its cool, alot of nothing.
Ghetto Wagon I am having problems unplugging the wire that are fixed to the module from the motor. Any recommendations?
I had a similar "pain in the butt screw" on my 98 Chevy. Nice tips here Tim and the process was well organized.
Thanks! Looks like you're all caught up here buddy. Good seeing you.
Thanks for the helpful video which included the OEM part number. My husband appreciated your video and was able to handle the repair himself on his 2006 Chevy Silverado 2500HD.
I just pulled the fuse every time I turned the truck off for 4 years! Your idea is better. 😂
Thank you sooo much!! Was exactly the issue I was having and it worked. Called the shop and they want 400 plus to fix it my son did it for me no labor charge and part was $40 at junk yard.
Best "Fan Stuck On" video that I've seen so far! Thanks!!
Thanks for the repair directions! I just finished just like you said thank you Parts at the dealership was about $90 2006 Silverado 2500! Thank you I did only have to take two black screws off and it did access the black modular!
So cool!
Awesome this worked perfectly and quickly for me. 2003 Chev Avalanche. I ordered the part on Rock Auto took 3 days to get here and finally have my heat working for winter !! Thanks so much!
I have a 2005 Escalade. My blower did not work at all. I replaced the resistor and it worked perfect for a couple of days. Now the blower stays on high always and it continues to run after shutting the car off.
Did you use a cheapo aftermarket part? Probably a bad part but possibly wiring or blower motor issues drawing too many amps
thanks for the heads-up! Gonna send the link to this video to my brother in law, so he can get prepared for the failure!
I remember when my brother bought a 90 F150 with the old thick film ignition module mounted on the distributor I got him the special wrench and a module to keep in his glovebox. It wasn't long before he needed it! Always good to be prepared. Take it easy.
Exact fix I needed for my 2006 Yukon XL blower fan. Thank you!
The good side of RUclips. Thank you!
Thank you! I ordered the right part and installed it in just a few minutes, thanks to your video!!
I am about to remove my third resistor pack in my 05 GMC Duramax. Will go to the dealer to ask for a better fix. Will ask for the update module.
Thank you for the help I needed in getting the correct part. I did not remove that screw on the left of the case. Just moved the housing to the left, which gave me room to work on the wires'.
To remove the cover. I took the two screws out that I could get to. For the one closest to the center consul I just left that one loose enough to pull the black plastic cover down far enough to work on the control module. It did not take long at all I didn’t break anything everything came apart and went back together vary nicely and fast
You made that look really easy there Tim which just means you're a skilled craftsman. Looks like that old module caught you off guard at the end of the video LOL. Have a good one and best wishes to you and your family.
+stuzman52 Hey thanks, I have been called worse than a skilled craftsman for sure. Some days I feel more like a old tired mechanic who is loosing his mind and patience. I really did spend at least 15-20 minutes putting that last screw in. Its always such a pain and you have to lay sideways and act like a acrobat just to get that sucker in there. I think I invented a few new words along the way!
I know what you mean Tim about some of those bolts. And trust me, we all have colorful words for those occasions LOL. Take care my friend...
You too!
I have a 2003 Denali that just started doing this. I pulled the fuse now… going to get the part and try my hand! Thanks
I stuck the screw thru a piece of electrical tape and then down to the socket and that helped a bunch... Thanks for the video it got me Goin in bout an hour...
Last week I went to the corner store with my a/c on. Turned my truck off and went in. When I started my vehicle to head home, everything was normal when I started smelling electrical burning. Pulled over but couldn't find where it was coming from. Since the vehicle was running normal and I was 2 minutes from home, I went ahead and drove it home. When I arrived and shut off my vehicle, I noticed the blower motor wasn't shutting off. I tried a few different things but ultimately decided not to mess with it that night. When unplugging the blower, I noticed the wires were very hot. I haven't messed with it all week because of work. Noticing you know more than the average bear, I figured I'd ask before I started taking it apart if you had any idea what I'm getting into. Or do you know something that'll point me in the right direction. Sorry this was long.... Thank you...
The blower motor is likely bad drawing excessive amperage and overheating the wiring. I would replace the blower with OE along with the wiring and module. Good luck
The Car Doctor Actually the one thing i forgot to mention in my message was that the blower was making a whining sound for the first minute or so when I'd turn the vehicle on. I think you're right on the money. I'll go that route. Thanks for the advice. I'll let you know how it turns out.
I’ve found that you only have to remove 2 screws in the cover. It will flex enough to get the module out
I did the permanent fix for it my blower motor turning off and on intermmitently on my 2003 Silverado. I bought an "add a circuit." I bought the 30 amp one. I pulled the 30 amp fuse out in the cab for the heater/AC hvac system and plugged in the add a circuit that has 2, 30 amp fuses in it with a pig tail coming out of it. I connected 8 ft of 14 gauge electrical wire to it with a butt connector. I ran the other end to the blower motor on the passenger side of the cab. I cut the pig tail off of the blower motor(the blower motor just has 2 wires coming out of it. A red and a black wire. I connected it to the red wire. The black wire on the blower motor I connected an eyelet to it and connected it to one of the glove box hinge screws which was a good ground. I cut the 8 ft piece of wire right above the transfer case shifter and installed a toggle switch from walmart. Now I can turn my blower motor off and on with that toggle switch. I only have high fan speed, but I don't care.
Thank you for your video,I was so flustered and had a bad day trying to figure what's going on???.I can fix it now..,very greatfull
Thank you so much, After watching your video it narrowed down the problem with my Hummer H2. It was exactly what you said it was and I bought the Part online for $26. Of course this is after pulling my entire dashboard apart to get to the Climate control unit.lol.
I get so much crap from my boss and other guys in the shop when I struggle with a stupid bolt. But at the end of the day they all understand, I hope lol. I'm sure this video will help someone out. Thanks for the video.
+Michael Herbert IM glad I don't have any other techs in the shop right now. Also glad my pastor didn't walk up when I was struggling with it...I might have to leave the church!
Mikita angle driver for a drill works good. Thanks for the help
Thanks car doctor u just gave me some more information about the issue I'm having with my chevy blazer with the a/c blower motor staying on after turning truck off.
Thank you for watching. Im so glad it was helpful.
Just watched you video... going to order the part and attempt this myself. I'm not very skilled at this kind of work... but I don't have the money right now to pay someone to do it. I'll let you know if I'm successful.
Thanks! Easy fix and you are correct, that 3rd screw is royal pain. No problem or noise from leaving it out.
Hey someone has probably said this but i just did mine watching your video. Anyways on the tricky screw I did not take it out all the way and I was able to slide the panel out of the way, was not too bad to put back in. Hope this helps
Sorry, 2007 2500 Chevy
Worked for me. Don’t take the 3rd screw out and save time it is unnecessary to access the control module
Hiii my good friend; TIM!!!!! GREATINGS FROM Puerto Rico..The most common error or fault that the "DIY" do; is that when changing the "control module" or the "blower"! They never do an "amp test" at the blower and control module harness. VERY important step! WHY? Because if someone puts a new a/c blower and have an a/c module that its "woking" but its consuming to much amp, your going to fry the harness and the blower to! AND VICEVERSA..
+pedro l rivera negron You sure are a firm believer in amp drop testing. I get the feeling that if they ever needed to get those paddles out and jump start your heart you might ask them if they did a voltage drop test before they shocked you back to life...just kidding. We sure could avoid a lot of unnecessary wrong parts replacement if we took your advise. In this case it was a common case of fried module and the updated part got him back on the road. If I had seen any melted wires I would have replaced the blower motor as well when I was in there. Always appreciate your input sir! Take care.
Replaced the modual because blower didn't work. Replacing it got it working again, but.....now it won't shut off with the new one in. Thoughts please.
Fantastic vid, appreciate the time you put into these!
You want a tip on that 3rd screw here it is i just changed one don't take it out just pull the plastick down so you have enough room
Wes That 3rd screw wasn't easy to get out the wife with small hands got it in about 2 min. I wasn't going to put it back in but the wife said let me try so I put silicone on the socket and the screw let it set she with her small hands got the screw back in and took her about 2 min. thanks for the video
To access the tight screw easier use a spring type extension. Make the job easier
I’ve been pulling the 40 amp fuse in the engine compartment. SOOOOOO glad I found this video! Thank you a ton.
You saved me tons of money! Thanks for the vide, bought the part off amazon for 35. The dealership wanted 180 just for the blower motor kit. Got a 05 Chevy 1500. Thanks for the video.
Thanks I will try this. My 05 Silverado has eaten a half dozen batteries over the years guess maybe this is the cause. About a year ago I caught it in the act and I cycled the controls over and over until it stopped. The fan hasn't worked since.
Awesome, Awesome! thank you for this video. I too have a 2005 Chevy Tahoe with the same problem (blower won't turn off). Unfortunately, I replaced the battery before I realized the fan was stuck on...probably not a big deal as the battery was 5 years old. Nevertheless, this video was very informative and helped me fix it myself. Found the exact same part on Amazon for $49. Replaced it in 15 minutes
Tip: that third screw that is so hard to get to...I unscrewed it only partially, which was allow me to complete the project without removing the cover completely. I can only imaging how difficult it would be to get it back in if you unscrew it all the way. very easy to screw back in with only partially unscrewed.
If it’s on service recall for updating then your local GM dealership should be responsible for replacing it.
On the inner screw you could replace it with a stud and nut.
Great help Tim. I took the fuse out until I could get time to change it out. Udaman !
Wish I had a tip for you tim....did this 2 years ago on 03 trailblazer was not fun. Thanks for the vid and have a nice holiday!!
+Ed B. You would think they would make it a little easier since its a part that blows out all the time. IM sure this updated part will fix it for good. TrailBlazers sure are different. Be sure to watch my water pump video if you ever need to do one. It will save you some hassle.
+The Car Doctor Thanks Tim...the way my luck is running lately sure appreciate it. lol
I thank you for this .. here is an easer way to do this DONT TAKE THE LAST SCREW OUT!!!
haha, agree 100%. Blessings
Does the control module have to be the updated version? I ordered the exact same one that is in it now which is the old one you show in this video. Replaced blower also and it still stays on when vehicle is shut off
Rodrigo Deleon same here.. Deleon did you figure it out yet?
Thanks man I just watched your video you made it look easy man it took me like 4 hours but I got it done! I’m not a mechanic just needed to save money
Thanks for the video! Very informative and helpful! Now I need to replace my module!
I just learned of this issue with my 07
Silverado. The control was at first not working on 1but ok on 2 then it eventually quit working on anything but 5 and then I discovered it not shutting off, then I ended up killing the battery. I got it to shut off and talked to my brother for a little while. Went back to cab, then yep, blasting away.
So I'll need to yank the fuse under the hood and I may as well replace battery ( factory battery believe it or not) but I'll try recharging to get it home. It's only 1/2 block away. So yep. I'll get her home and then fix it when I can.
Don't forget to look closely at the wiring. Might need a blower motor, wiring and module. I sure like OE parts
The Car Doctor
I took it to the mechanic and they replaced a resistor and the pig tail. Fan running good again
My truck has a constant got to the fan high. Like there's a short or a relay stuck. My module has a relay built into it as soon as I plug it in it engaged the relay. I only had high. I cut the wire now I have all but high. Is there another relay pressing to the module itself
I own a 2003 Yukon XL. Fan stayed on and killed my battery.
Just did this replacement. (W.A.P.I.T.A.) Your video really helped me. Thanks again.
Glad you got it figured out and I appreciate you watching!
@@ThecardoctorTV I replaced mine it's doing the same thing
The screw next to the console does not have to be removed for this installation ,the plastic sheild is flexible enough to bend out of the way to get the job done..
Thanks man I just had 2 change mine. This was very helpful.
Thank you!
Major help. Thanks for this video. Such a relief my problem is fixed.
I have a 2000 Suburban that is doing the same thing in the rear HVAC. I changed out the moduel or relay but still have the same problem with the rear blower.
Have you checked power and ground to motor?
Hi! Okay, so last year, this video was extremely helpful last year when my blower motor control module (resistor?) had to be replaced. Fan stayed on after key removed, replaced blower control module and it worked fine. Now Present day... Same thing happens, assumed blower control module was bad again, replaced it. That was not it. Replaced the blower motor relay.. That was not it. Took my car to local mechanic, he checked everything, said wiring looked good, said he would get someone to check the climate control module but he didn't have anything to test that. So I go and buy a new climate control module ($186) and that was not the problem either. Mechanic said all the wiring was good. WTH can it be now??? I've seen in your comments that it could be a bad "blower motor" so my question is if the blower motor was bad would it still stay on with the key out of the ignition??
No, blower wont cause that. Stuck relay or bad module would
Don't know how u bought a part if mechanic didn't test it or was sure what was wrong with it check out( south main auto repair ) on you tube he posted plenty of videos on a/c repairs plus if you email him he might help you out . Just saw a video about the control fan speed not working all the speeds and there was a short in the relay on one of the wires once he replace it tested it it worked .also have to let it reset, after installing any part u rrplace specially with the a/c system is a headache. I just started having problems with mine too I think I'll be doing some estra work too after this video game some more info. Sorry for the long message. Thanks
I have a 2001 Suburban LS. Same issue - fan runs max speed with key out. Removed the HVAC fuse. Stopped problem (fan on with key out) and I have the 4 lower speeds - just not 5th speed. I believe mine is a different part than the '03-'09 that you talked about here. Would this still point to the blower resistor module? Thank you!
I changed everything like you said and it worked but a month later it started doing the same thing again. Blower won’t turn off after turning the truck off. Now I’m stuck and don’t know how to fix it
I’ve replaced 2 of these in my Escalade. This now would be my third. They last me about a month. Do you recommend replacing the motor as well now then?
Have u fixed ur problem ive been having the same problem as you let me know plz what u did
Thanks a lot. Ordered same AC Delco Part on Amazon and followed your video.
excellent!
How do i can order the part on Amazon?
I have done a few of these, easy way to get that screw is to use a thumb ratchet. They sell them at autozone.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge to us !!
Appreciate this very impressed with your instructions,easy to follow.
That reinstalling screw is a freaking nightmare.
So I followed this video and got it all hooked up, and now the blower does not work at all. Any suggestions on what that could possibly be?
I found an easier way to do the third screw on the plastic cover... I only loosened the screw maybe 3 turns leaving it still attached... Allowed me to pull the cover out of the way and all I had to do was tighten up when done! Entire job took 20mins
This repair can be done without removing that one hard screw - just loosen it and the black cover will swivel out of the way while laying on the floor of the vehicle
Thank you sir!
Once this new one is installed does it need to be reprogrammed or reset to work rite?
Why does my harness have so many more wires than yours? I have a red, orange, black, green, purple, yellow, and a peach color. All in that order. What should I do with the extra wires? I'm not sure what they are. I have a 2004 Tahoe.
Thanks for the video,but, what about the 2016 chevy suburban??
Thanks for the help, I treid to change mine . Got new one at NAPA. Didn't work. I went to my fav shop McDonalds Auto Repair Hebron Ohio and it was the small black relay that is next to it on Chevy S10 2000. LOL the last shop that looked at it gave me a 2 hr estimate to look in the dash LOL.
Glad you got it figured out. Thanks for watching my vid!
What small relay and where is the location underthe hood?
Can you please email me pictire of location and which specific relay to j.docberg@gmail.com thank you
@@boosted6ers yes it a small black relay . Facing the truck hood open in the back mine was screwed to the back leftish top of engine wall.
@@boosted6ers i can yes .
Smashing repair, should be ok now, that aluminium heatsink looked decent.
I do find the fact that the module allways has power odd, i would have thought it would be switched, but thats designers for you lol.
Ive tryed stripping wire with crimpers, just a pain in the butt, i roll the wire on a penknife blade, then it comes clean off.
For cooler countrys (uk), i would bolt that module direct to the firewall, big heatsink lol.
+zx8401ztv OK that's an idea. I guess they figure the air circulation is enough. They make some really nice wire strippers but I just never invested in them. I also use a razor sometimes especially in tight places to remove the insulation. I almost put the last screw in an envelope and mailed it to England along with an autographed picture of me with a mean look on my face after fighting that blasted bugger for at least 30 minutes before I finally got it!
+The Car Doctor
LOL the last screw is allways a bugger, ive repaired laptop/netbook computers and ended up with a couple of screws left over :-).
Well they put too many in anyway :)
.
As far as the air circulation cooling the active device enough, im not sure it does, thats one of the reasons they fail.
Heat = Death for electronics, same for most things really.
Well perhaps not your dinner ha ha :-D
+zx8401ztv I am sure to heat up my moose meat to make sure its dead as well so you are correct.
Is the module and a resister the same think?
My new module came with a seven wire plug with the old one is only three? Wrong one?