Working in shops in dealerships my whole life I have to tell you you are a good leader for your team being able to explain why you have practices in place not only to your employees and help them understand why it's done but to create the video and to help the customer understand why you do things and why some problems that may occur can be solved immediately when you explain your best practices and why it's not possible that you may have left the seat back too far or didn't set something back the right way because that's your practice every vehicle every single time there is no question you know it was done and you have a log of everything your employees follow it and you record it and you can explain it without a doubt it builds confidence and not only your team but with the customers and what they are getting done and what they're getting back so bravo it's not the easiest thing to do some places will tell their employees to do something but they'll never fully understand it some will not follow it us employees not following it confidence in saying that it was done goes down and questions can occur in customers
It’s amazing how much more elevated your game have become compared to many years ago in your first videos that used to be about taking off panel, and installing head units, speakers or adding a rear view camera
I would have listened to the tune 3 times throughout the set up process instead of relying on the RTA until the end. I have had 2 professional tunes and they sounded terrible. The human ear is always the best in my opinion.
Thank you guys for doing the video I love all your videos they're very hopeful And educational I am doing SQ build in a Subaru wrx I have component separates hybrid Is audio control 810 DSP 2 18inch Infinite baffle in the trunk And a 10inch Fiberglass woofer Underneath the glove Box and a Down 4 sound jp7 Chanel and jp8 For the 10inch midbase
30:00 It looks like the auto EQ just added the same corrections on top of the previous one each time you ran the auto setup. What does the DSP auto calibration do exactly? Does it just apply an EQ curve to the input signal so that the output is as close as flat as possible?
Basically yes. But the vehicle acts like an acoustic box that multiplies certain frequencies as it absorbs others hence why he is using the RTA to manipulate the EQ curve in order to get the acoustic curve as flat as possible disregarding the electrical signal
Waiting for subs to do your mids isn't quite right. If your Sub is knocking down your mids, the sub delay isn't right. Forget about actual distance with Subs. Phase needs to be aligned in the crossover area. You should be setting sub delay with sweeps in REW. What "works" for you guys isn't necessarily right.
Well that is totally dependant on the car, sub ,amp etc. Generally you want your sub xover a half octave below your hpf for the fronts if you want the sub to sound "up front-ish".
@@melissathompson7229 Forgive my ignorance but when you say set the subwoofer crossover 1/2 octave below my hpf what numerical value dues 1/2 octave represent? I have my hpf for the door speakers around 87-95 hz (the front door speakers are 6x9"-87hz and the rear doors are 6 1/2"-95hz). So I think my subwoofer is crossed around 80 Hz. What would be optimum setting? Is it generally 80hz? My apologies I'm trying to read as much as I can to absorb as much knowledge as I can.
@@charlesabbott9605 no worries at all. If you have your fronts high passed at say 80 hz which is a great starting point a full octave below would be 40 hz. So a half octave would be roughly 60-65 hz. Obviously you have to play with it a bit to get it perfect but that's a good starting point. However if you don't have a DSP you will probably only have the option to set your subwoofer lpf to something like 63 hz which is generally fine
@@melissathompson7229 Did you mean to reply to someone else? I'm talking about time delay. Nothing to do with crossovers. If your sub delay is wrong, It can cancel out your mids. If you "fix" this with EQ. You are just making your amp and speakers work overtime. Using a Tape measure for this is like using a sun dial to tell what time it is. Is it accurate? sort of? but also you could have the whole thing backwards. (not a perfect example but hopefully you get my point) As in you might want to have your subs phased 180, (and also then, the delay will be totally different) for the best response. REW has a time alignment tool that works great. All you need is a measurement of the front mains and of the Sub. Tons of info on this under "sub alignment" in the home theater world. Car audio seems to always be a step behind. If You DO want to do this with RTA, (which is a pain) you can do this. Crossovers at (your example) 60 and 80hz. Pay attention to the WORST result here at 70hz. Increase the delay in the sub, then remove the delay and increase the delay in the speakers. Flip the sub 180 and do the same with subs, and then start over with the mains. Wherever your biggest dip is, is the maximum cancelation. Now that you know the worst result with the most cancellation, you flip the sub 180 from where that is and you should have your best result and correct delay. THEN you can EQ that 60-80hz area if needed.
Thank you for your video it s been really helpfull..Just a question...The rear speakers should they have the same settings as the front ones or they should be flat?Thank you very much..!!!
All I have is a DM 810 but not another RTA with a mic. I can set the EQ and crossovers . But time alignment is what I’m not familiar with. Getting it to all play at the front drivers position. Can I effectively set the DSP still without an external microphone? I don’t mind how long just wanted to make sure I was not wasting time
Hello, my name Darren, I've been watching your videos for years and I enjoy seeing them, and good information you provide, I own a 2016 Ford Taurus Limited with the Sony audio system, I play bass guitar and need to keep as much of my trunk space as possible and I am wondering if you have any advice on a subwoofer box that would save as space as possible so I can continue to use the trunk to carry my bass guitar equipment. Thank you for any advice you can give me
How would you set up and tune a DSP.. that doesn't use a preset program.. on a laptop? ... i have the Front Row Kicker DSP... brand new... never used... all original packaging...
So i have a DSP 608 in my 07 Toyota 4runer. I have pair of 8' Celestions in front doors, pair in rear doors , a pair mounted on liftgate and 1 12' Cerein verga sub.For the tweeters, i have a pair in the front doors, pair on B pillar and a pair in the Upper D pillar. Whats the best way to setup the different fequency lvl for the different doors/ panel??
Hello Dean and Fernando Which setup would you prefer? The Audio Control D 6.1200, Three LC 800s and an Epicenter verses Audio Control DM 810, LC 6.1200, three LC 800s and the Epicenter. Where I am getting confused is the lc800s do not have a line output where the amps can be looped together. I need three outputs for the sub amps that needs to be after the epicenter which the epicenter has to have full range signal in. I'm trying to figure out how I can use an acr3 control knob to control one input which will control the 3 lc800s. The Acr-3 knob and the epicenter knobs will be up front. Neither the D 6.1200 or the dm810 has three sub outputs. How can I assign one input to control the three sub amps? Y adapters? If one of the outputs goes from the dm810 to the input of a LC 6.1200 then the outputs that I can sum together somehow can go to the three lc800s, can a full range output go to the input of the epicenter then the output of the epicenter loop back into the dm810 input that would be controlling the three sub amps? I know this is as confusing as heck but I've never dealt with a DSP before but I would really like to give it a try. I will be running tweeters, dash 2.75s, front door 6.5"and rear door 6.5" plus the subwoofers. Factory Radio
👋🏾 Help my 🧠 please. I'm looking to find out how much exactly would it cost to have the AC D-6 1200 amplifier tuned and only tuned, by someone who is familiar? Thanks
Just (re)installed one. The shop/dealer didn't know how to tighten the wire connectors and 6 of my outputs fell out. I started from scratch with the whole system. Didn't trust the rest of their install. Montana!
What kind of passive crossover was on the tweeter just out of curiosity? I am debating using this to run my front speakers active vs doing front and rear w passive front.
Okay, I'm old school, participated in Car Audio Nationals in 1988. That being said, I don't have all of that expert test equipment that I once had. Is there a phone app you suggest for me to use for my basic 7+1(sub) speaker system in my F-150. I like clarity and not necessary loudness.
There's an rta app from audio control available on app store. Also consider buying a good dac. I'm currently using tempotec sonata hd it really makes a huge difference in overall sound.
Only if they’re wired to the crossover in a bi-amp configuration (if possible), but then you lose your DSP crossover functionality between the two speakers. Passive crossovers don’t have a HPF for the mid so at least you get that option with a DSP.
@Chris Butler If you have a DSP, the crossover controls and adjustments are much more Precise and Flexible than the amplifier's, so use the crossovers in the DSP. However, I would use the HPF crossover in the amplifier to set a "protection/safety" crossover on each Tweeter at around 1.5kHz if possible. For the majority of car audio tweeters on the market, you will want to set the crossover in the DSP at or above ~3kHz. The protection or safety crossover on the amplifier will be about an octave below the actual tweeter crossover in the DSP and will not affect it. But by doing this, your tweeters will be protected if you accidentally play test tones or music through them without a crossover set in the DSP, or if the DSP glitches or resets while tuning (it can happen!). Andy at Audiofrog suggests using a simple 68ųf (68 microfarad) poly capacitor placed in-line on a 4-ohm Tweeter's positive wire to effectively offer the same protection. The Microfarad value of the capacitor may need to be changed depending on the impedance of the tweeter being used and its Fs (resonant frequency), and the desired final crossover point. For example, some tweeters are 6 Ohms or 8 Ohms. Using this simple capacitor on the tweeter applies a -6dB per octave crossover filter to it well below the final crossover point. There are online calculators to figure out the proper value of the capacitor that is needed (depending on the desired protection crossover frequency and the tweeter's impedance). For some strange reason, Dean does not think this is necessary or advisable. But I'm guessing that he has never had to pay for expensive blown tweeters when this happens. Go to the Audiofrog website's Tech Tips Section to find the article on using a capacitor to protect your tweeters when using a DSP without passive crossovers.
Yes, most DSPs have a remote level control that can be assigned to a specific output or group of outputs that act as a master volume and/or subwoofer level control. Sometimes it is included with the DSP, but usually it is a separate add-on purchase/accessory.
You guys use a particular song when you're test listening to a completed install May I allowed to ask which song that is? I know you can't play it due to copyright stuff. Just curious.
In one of the videos with Jeff Smith, they posted a Spotify Playlist of their Demo/Tuning tracks. I would seriously consider purchasing the Audiofrog UMIK-1 kit and following the Audiofrog Tuning Guide PDF that is available for free download on the TechTools section of the Audiofrog website. Andy at Audiofrog has included some excellent Demo tracks on the CD that is included with the UMIK-1 Tuning/Measurement kit. Also check out and Search for *Erin's Audio Corner Playlist* on Spotify!
@AudioControl @5 Star Car Stereo Sorry, but AudioControl should take it upon themselves to produce a series of tuning tutorial videos using their DSP products.
@Kenny Bales Kenny, thanks, I've seen those videos, but NONE of them cover the process of taking accurate Acoustic Measurements in the vehicle and then applying the PROPER corrections in the DSP, which is THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT ASPECT of "tuning" a DSP. Again, look at JL Audio's recent videos using their new TüN v4.0 DSP software and MAX microphone measurement system as a reference.
Man this seems complicated. I just throw my things together with normal crossovers and tune it all evenly because I have passengers all the time and don’t want to work just driver side door speaker.. it’s even all across the car.
YIKES !!! 😖 More like how to blow your midbass/midwoofer drivers, get listening fatigue from blaring tweeters, and send customers off with a crappy sounding system! Ummmm... I really appreciate the effort, but you might want to have Jeff Smith, Nick Wingate Jr, or Andy Wehmeyer come on the show and try this again! Ideally, you would break these videos down into a series of multiple sections with each major step-by-step process.... i.e. smaller chunks of information that are topic-specific are easier to follow and digest/remember. Sorry guys, I really love what you do, but this is going to confuse and mislead/misinform a lot of people. :-(
@Kenny Bales Say what you will. I stand by my comments. I'd rather speak out and be called various derogatory names than let thousands of viewers consider this video their "reference" tuning guide. Viewers would be better off following Audiofrog's FREE step-by-step Tuning Guide that is available as a PDF download which is located at the bottom of the "Tech Gear" UMIK-1 microphone measurement system page on the *Audiofrog* website. In addition, you really need to take multiple microphone measurements in several locations within the "listening window", or use the "moving mic method", to get a *spatial average* that will more accurately represent the acoustic amplitude response of the system in the main listening position. "Setting Up" the I/O Routing Matrix and general settings of the DSP is one thing. But making proper acoustical measurements and applying meaningful corrections to the DSP is another entirely. Dean admitted to not ever actually using his Audiofrog UMIK-1 because it requires the use of the fantastic but intimidating *REW* software. *REW* is incredibly powerful and feature-rich, and you can easily "get lost in the weeds" much like Photoshop for images. However, there are just a few key settings and features in REW that you are required to learn and utilize in order to make the proper measurements. Yes, a bit more time and experience is required to understand and interpret the results properly in order to apply appropriate and meaningful corrections to the DSP and improve overall system response. While a "Target Curve" was mentioned (but pretty much quickly dismissed for some unknown reason), the end results of Dean's adjustments and "corrections" were so very far off from any known and accepted Target Curve that would actually produce pleasing results, that it is scary and honestly a disservice to the car audio enthusiast community. Dean obviously has HEAPS of installation and OEM integration knowledge and wisdom. But *properly* Measuring and then Tuning a car audio system that uses a DSP is an entirely different skill set. Unfortunately, they have limited time to produce these videos properly, and that along with Dean's ADD forced him to skip or not thoroughly explore the necessary processes that produce a successful tune. The process he used and the ultimate "tune" that he ended up with may sound "exciting" and "good" at first listen by the general audio enthusiast when they pick up their vehicle, but IMHO, it will be far from ideal over the long term and across all genres of music and recordings, leaving A LOT of room for improvement on the table. If you want to watch in-depth videos that clearly explain the process of taking measurements and system tuning using a DSP, check out the more recent *JL Audio* videos using their *TüN* v4.x software. If you want to learn through hands-on experience, check if former IASCA World Champion, Mark Eldridge, is still offering classes through his *MSE* Tuning Course (Mobile Soundstage Engineering). COVID might have postponed these courses or clinics...I haven't checked in a few years. To be fair, IME, 90% of car stereo enthusiasts wouldn't really appreciate or want a properly tuned and "balanced" SQ system. I've also found that a lot of people don't really care about recreating an accurate soundstage with pinpoint imaging in their vehicle. They really just want a loud, clean system with "killer" bass, and a fully enveloping experience. For example, Fernando really likes an over abundant amount of sparkle and sizzle from his tweeters that would drive most musicians, audiophiles, or studio engineers nuts. Anyhow... Good luck with your new system and install...and enjoy the music!
@@bbfoto7248 Jesus Christ, are you retired, or something. Ain’t nobody got time to read all that. Tl;dr if you’re happy, I’m happy for you. Just don’t forget to be nice to people.
@Kenny Bales Well, if you can't keep your attention focused long enough to read a few paragraphs in a RUclips comment, I don't know what to tell you. :-/ I'm a photographer, gaffer, musician, and home & car audio enthusiast that cares enough to take the time to try to educate people so that they might gain more satisfaction from their stereo system regardless of how much money they have invested in it. I hate seeing people spend a lot of money on good equipment and a DSP and not get the absolute best performance and enjoyment out of it! Proper acoustic measurements and DSP system tuning are in-depth topics and skills with MANY technical facits. No Pain, No Gain. Everyone these days expects to be spoon-fed and only wants to watch videos...can't be bothered to actually READ and learn, FFS! Sorry if I'm not being "nice", but people these days are lazy AF! SMDH
Thank you Dean and Fernando for this educational video!
Working in shops in dealerships my whole life I have to tell you you are a good leader for your team being able to explain why you have practices in place not only to your employees and help them understand why it's done but to create the video and to help the customer understand why you do things and why some problems that may occur can be solved immediately when you explain your best practices and why it's not possible that you may have left the seat back too far or didn't set something back the right way because that's your practice every vehicle every single time there is no question you know it was done and you have a log of everything your employees follow it and you record it and you can explain it without a doubt it builds confidence and not only your team but with the customers and what they are getting done and what they're getting back so bravo it's not the easiest thing to do some places will tell their employees to do something but they'll never fully understand it some will not follow it us employees not following it confidence in saying that it was done goes down and questions can occur in customers
Absolutely amazing training class👍🏻
It’s amazing how much more elevated your game have become compared to many years ago in your first videos that used to be about taking off panel, and installing head units, speakers or adding a rear view camera
Very useful video for tuning with DSP and mic!
You’ve reminded me why I bought this pedal. Thanks
Very detailed explanation awesome work
Thanks guys
With all the updates from AC are you guys thinking about making another video in this style?
Another great tutorial. Please do another one with tuning the subs and how to “blend” with mid base
I would have listened to the tune 3 times throughout the set up process instead of relying on the RTA until the end.
I have had 2 professional tunes and they sounded terrible.
The human ear is always the best in my opinion.
I think using a regular mouse instead of the touch pad on the laptop would make your experience a lot better.
Nah, and I used to hate mouse touch pads.
Tuning a DSP doesn't require much mouse use.
This is over my head
D.6 1200 and after market HU. I summed the rear and the sub together and boom thunder and lightning. It sounds wonderful but I don’t understand why.
Great job with the video. That’s a nice mic holder, where did you get it from. I would like to pick one up.
Very informative, thanks guys.
Awesome thanks
Yup love my 13w7 , just gotta install JL ZR'S COMPONET SET IN FRONT then I got JL XR,'S COMPONENTS FOR THE BACK..
Thank you guys for doing the video I love all your videos they're very hopeful And educational I am doing SQ build in a Subaru wrx I have component separates hybrid Is audio control 810 DSP 2 18inch Infinite baffle in the trunk And a 10inch Fiberglass woofer Underneath the glove Box and a Down 4 sound jp7 Chanel and jp8 For the 10inch midbase
Hoping you could do the same for the Audio Dynamics DSP you guys had?
30:00 It looks like the auto EQ just added the same corrections on top of the previous one each time you ran the auto setup. What does the DSP auto calibration do exactly? Does it just apply an EQ curve to the input signal so that the output is as close as flat as possible?
Basically yes. But the vehicle acts like an acoustic box that multiplies certain frequencies as it absorbs others hence why he is using the RTA to manipulate the EQ curve in order to get the acoustic curve as flat as possible disregarding the electrical signal
holy balls!!! that DM-RTA is 700$ i just spent almost that much on the darn DM608
Super wish I would’ve caught it live
Waiting for subs to do your mids isn't quite right. If your Sub is knocking down your mids, the sub delay isn't right. Forget about actual distance with Subs. Phase needs to be aligned in the crossover area. You should be setting sub delay with sweeps in REW. What "works" for you guys isn't necessarily right.
Well that is totally dependant on the car, sub ,amp etc. Generally you want your sub xover a half octave below your hpf for the fronts if you want the sub to sound "up front-ish".
@@melissathompson7229 Forgive my ignorance but when you say set the subwoofer crossover 1/2 octave below my hpf what numerical value dues 1/2 octave represent? I have my hpf for the door speakers around 87-95 hz (the front door speakers are 6x9"-87hz and the rear doors are 6 1/2"-95hz). So I think my subwoofer is crossed around 80 Hz. What would be optimum setting? Is it generally 80hz? My apologies I'm trying to read as much as I can to absorb as much knowledge as I can.
@@charlesabbott9605 no worries at all. If you have your fronts high passed at say 80 hz which is a great starting point a full octave below would be 40 hz. So a half octave would be roughly 60-65 hz. Obviously you have to play with it a bit to get it perfect but that's a good starting point. However if you don't have a DSP you will probably only have the option to set your subwoofer lpf to something like 63 hz which is generally fine
@@melissathompson7229 thank you thank you thank you!
@@melissathompson7229 Did you mean to reply to someone else? I'm talking about time delay. Nothing to do with crossovers.
If your sub delay is wrong, It can cancel out your mids. If you "fix" this with EQ. You are just making your amp and speakers work overtime. Using a Tape measure for this is like using a sun dial to tell what time it is. Is it accurate? sort of? but also you could have the whole thing backwards. (not a perfect example but hopefully you get my point) As in you might want to have your subs phased 180, (and also then, the delay will be totally different) for the best response.
REW has a time alignment tool that works great. All you need is a measurement of the front mains and of the Sub. Tons of info on this under "sub alignment" in the home theater world. Car audio seems to always be a step behind.
If You DO want to do this with RTA, (which is a pain) you can do this. Crossovers at (your example) 60 and 80hz. Pay attention to the WORST result here at 70hz. Increase the delay in the sub, then remove the delay and increase the delay in the speakers. Flip the sub 180 and do the same with subs, and then start over with the mains. Wherever your biggest dip is, is the maximum cancelation. Now that you know the worst result with the most cancellation, you flip the sub 180 from where that is and you should have your best result and correct delay. THEN you can EQ that 60-80hz area if needed.
Thank you for your video it s been really helpfull..Just a question...The rear speakers should they have the same settings as the front ones or they should be flat?Thank you very much..!!!
Car you talk about battery maintainer?
May god bless you brother ♥️ love from pakistan
All I have is a DM 810 but not another RTA with a mic. I can set the EQ and crossovers . But time alignment is what I’m not familiar with. Getting it to all play at the front drivers position. Can I effectively set the DSP still without an external microphone? I don’t mind how long just wanted to make sure I was not wasting time
Orion XTR Beast 0:24 😍
Hello, my name Darren, I've been watching your videos for years and I enjoy seeing them, and good information you provide, I own a 2016 Ford Taurus Limited with the Sony audio system, I play bass guitar and need to keep as much of my trunk space as possible and I am wondering if you have any advice on a subwoofer box that would save as space as possible so I can continue to use the trunk to carry my bass guitar equipment. Thank you for any advice you can give me
how much would services like this cost for install speaker install dsp and full sound treatment
I don’t have tweeters but my front door speakers sound like tweeters, I have a DSP.4-800 amp. What setting can u mess with?
These measurements are interesting.
How are the gains adjusted on AudioControl DSP amps?
How would you set up and tune a DSP.. that doesn't use a preset program.. on a laptop? ... i have the Front Row Kicker DSP... brand new... never used... all original packaging...
Hey guys, is there anyway you can upload the mapping that you did for this setup?
I need you to set mines up
When you are doing this you set all the headunit eq. Down or off??
@ 8:00 here's your answer
So i have a DSP 608 in my 07 Toyota 4runer. I have pair of 8' Celestions in front doors, pair in rear doors , a pair mounted on liftgate and 1 12' Cerein verga sub.For the tweeters, i have a pair in the front doors, pair on B pillar and a pair in the Upper D pillar. Whats the best way to setup the different fequency lvl for the different doors/ panel??
You guys have to get a laser range finder for making the measurements in the car if you haven’t already. It makes it extremely easy
We have 2, Fernando doesn’t like them
Listen to when he talks about roll off. He mentioned the DSP has an auto function
On a dap with one input and 6 out can i make 2 of those for the rear even tho iam getting front signals or will it sound weird
Hola una pregunta por que tarda mucho conectarse mi dsp ala computadora el micro usb perfecto a donde debe ir ,,?
Hello Dean and Fernando
Which setup would you prefer?
The Audio Control D 6.1200, Three LC 800s and an Epicenter verses
Audio Control DM 810, LC 6.1200, three LC 800s and the Epicenter.
Where I am getting confused is the lc800s do not have a line output where the amps can be looped together. I need three outputs for the sub amps that needs to be after the epicenter which the epicenter has to have full range signal in. I'm trying to figure out how I can use an acr3 control knob to control one input which will control the 3 lc800s. The Acr-3 knob and the epicenter knobs will be up front.
Neither the D 6.1200 or the dm810 has three sub outputs. How can I assign one input to control the three sub amps? Y adapters?
If one of the outputs goes from the dm810 to the input of a LC 6.1200 then the outputs that I can sum together somehow can go to the three lc800s, can a full range output go to the input of the epicenter then the output of the epicenter loop back into the dm810 input that would be controlling the three sub amps?
I know this is as confusing as heck but I've never dealt with a DSP before but I would really like to give it a try.
I will be running tweeters, dash 2.75s, front door 6.5"and rear door 6.5" plus the subwoofers.
Factory Radio
👋🏾 Help my 🧠 please. I'm looking to find out how much exactly would it cost to have the AC D-6 1200 amplifier tuned and only tuned, by someone who is familiar? Thanks
Do you ever just do a sine sweep from high to low to listen for hot spots?
That will just make everything a hot spot?
Is the Rockford DSR-1 a good DSP
Yes
is there a way for the DM-RTA to tie to the D-4.800 and set the curve acoustically?
Just (re)installed one. The shop/dealer didn't know how to tighten the wire connectors and 6 of my outputs fell out. I started from scratch with the whole system. Didn't trust the rest of their install. Montana!
Can I use a remote to control eq settings on the dm 810?
Guys, I have this same car with same DSP. Can I take it in to you for tuning? is this something you do?
Old school rta tuning, i use smaart
What kind of passive crossover was on the tweeter just out of curiosity? I am debating using this to run my front speakers active vs doing front and rear w passive front.
Okay, I'm old school, participated in Car Audio Nationals in 1988. That being said, I don't have all of that expert test equipment that I once had. Is there a phone app you suggest for me to use for my basic 7+1(sub) speaker system in my F-150. I like clarity and not necessary loudness.
There's an rta app from audio control available on app store. Also consider buying a good dac. I'm currently using tempotec sonata hd it really makes a huge difference in overall sound.
@@deepeshgolani1
Nice to hear that inexpensive DACS can actually make a difference.
What resolution was used for tuning, 1/3, 1/6 or 1/12?
Looks like a third bro
Can I use Passover crossovers with this dsp and still have control over each speaker?
Only if they’re wired to the crossover in a bi-amp configuration (if possible), but then you lose your DSP crossover functionality between the two speakers. Passive crossovers don’t have a HPF for the mid so at least you get that option with a DSP.
How do you like the Maximus vs the maximo ultra?
I have all audio control amps and dsp 610, do you use the cross over filters on the amps or do you use both dsp filters and amp filters in unison?
@Chris Butler
If you have a DSP, the crossover controls and adjustments are much more Precise and Flexible than the amplifier's, so use the crossovers in the DSP.
However, I would use the HPF crossover in the amplifier to set a "protection/safety" crossover on each Tweeter at around 1.5kHz if possible. For the majority of car audio tweeters on the market, you will want to set the crossover in the DSP at or above ~3kHz.
The protection or safety crossover on the amplifier will be about an octave below the actual tweeter crossover in the DSP and will not affect it.
But by doing this, your tweeters will be protected if you accidentally play test tones or music through them without a crossover set in the DSP, or if the DSP glitches or resets while tuning (it can happen!).
Andy at Audiofrog suggests using a simple 68ųf (68 microfarad) poly capacitor placed in-line on a 4-ohm Tweeter's positive wire to effectively offer the same protection.
The Microfarad value of the capacitor may need to be changed depending on the impedance of the tweeter being used and its Fs (resonant frequency), and the desired final crossover point. For example, some tweeters are 6 Ohms or 8 Ohms.
Using this simple capacitor on the tweeter applies a -6dB per octave crossover filter to it well below the final crossover point. There are online calculators to figure out the proper value of the capacitor that is needed (depending on the desired protection crossover frequency and the tweeter's impedance).
For some strange reason, Dean does not think this is necessary or advisable. But I'm guessing that he has never had to pay for expensive blown tweeters when this happens.
Go to the Audiofrog website's Tech Tips Section to find the article on using a capacitor to protect your tweeters when using a DSP without passive crossovers.
@@bbfoto7248 awesome thank you! Dsp world is all new to me, I’ve really enjoyed learning about it.
Can i controlle the rca output in the dsp ? when i connect a monoblock on it
Yes, most DSPs have a remote level control that can be assigned to a specific output or group of outputs that act as a master volume and/or subwoofer level control. Sometimes it is included with the DSP, but usually it is a separate add-on purchase/accessory.
You guys use a particular song when you're test listening to a completed install May I allowed to ask which song that is? I know you can't play it due to copyright stuff. Just curious.
In one of the videos with Jeff Smith, they posted a Spotify Playlist of their Demo/Tuning tracks.
I would seriously consider purchasing the Audiofrog UMIK-1 kit and following the Audiofrog Tuning Guide PDF that is available for free download on the TechTools section of the Audiofrog website. Andy at Audiofrog has included some excellent Demo tracks on the CD that is included with the UMIK-1 Tuning/Measurement kit.
Also check out and Search for *Erin's Audio Corner Playlist* on Spotify!
@@bbfoto7248 Wow thank you so much! A bunch of great info.
I would mute the annoying pink noise on the output channels while tuning.
When using rta do you guys set eq at full tilt or 3/4 volume?
Some where between 1/2 and 3/4
@Five Star Car Stereo so you guys don't set amp gains until after setting eq? Or is that only for factory, will that apply to aftermarket?
Why over base a car stereo?
2022 then. 6 being june anything after june is considered the fallowing year
Starting june (6) is considered fallowing year. So 2022
@AudioControl
@5 Star Car Stereo
Sorry, but AudioControl should take it upon themselves to produce a series of tuning tutorial videos using their DSP products.
Sorry you don't already know that they have...4-5 months ago. ruclips.net/p/PLvJwOrkzwYIB4c6rR5USOBMZrDhGsLgZg
OMG...look who did video #5...
@Kenny Bales
Kenny, thanks, I've seen those videos, but NONE of them cover the process of taking accurate Acoustic Measurements in the vehicle and then applying the PROPER corrections in the DSP, which is THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT ASPECT of "tuning" a DSP.
Again, look at JL Audio's recent videos using their new TüN v4.0 DSP software and MAX microphone measurement system as a reference.
ADD VIN NUMBERS TO YOUR SAVES PROFILES
Never used any time alignment, seems like a headache Fernando :P
Nope super easy
👍👍❗
Man this seems complicated. I just throw my things together with normal crossovers and tune it all evenly because I have passengers all the time and don’t want to work just driver side door speaker.. it’s even all across the car.
this is confusing
sony mobile ES from the 90s still in the closet..sigh
YIKES !!! 😖 More like how to blow your midbass/midwoofer drivers, get listening fatigue from blaring tweeters, and send customers off with a crappy sounding system!
Ummmm... I really appreciate the effort, but you might want to have Jeff Smith, Nick Wingate Jr, or Andy Wehmeyer come on the show and try this again!
Ideally, you would break these videos down into a series of multiple sections with each major step-by-step process.... i.e. smaller chunks of information that are topic-specific are easier to follow and digest/remember.
Sorry guys, I really love what you do, but this is going to confuse and mislead/misinform a lot of people. :-(
Who cares what you appreciate. Seriously, you're uncalled for.
@Kenny Bales
Say what you will. I stand by my comments. I'd rather speak out and be called various derogatory names than let thousands of viewers consider this video their "reference" tuning guide.
Viewers would be better off following Audiofrog's FREE step-by-step Tuning Guide that is available as a PDF download which is located at the bottom of the "Tech Gear" UMIK-1 microphone measurement system page on the *Audiofrog* website.
In addition, you really need to take multiple microphone measurements in several locations within the "listening window", or use the "moving mic method", to get a *spatial average* that will more accurately represent the acoustic amplitude response of the system in the main listening position.
"Setting Up" the I/O Routing Matrix and general settings of the DSP is one thing. But making proper acoustical measurements and applying meaningful corrections to the DSP is another entirely.
Dean admitted to not ever actually using his Audiofrog UMIK-1 because it requires the use of the fantastic but intimidating *REW* software.
*REW* is incredibly powerful and feature-rich, and you can easily "get lost in the weeds" much like Photoshop for images. However, there are just a few key settings and features in REW that you are required to learn and utilize in order to make the proper measurements. Yes, a bit more time and experience is required to understand and interpret the results properly in order to apply appropriate and meaningful corrections to the DSP and improve overall system response.
While a "Target Curve" was mentioned (but pretty much quickly dismissed for some unknown reason), the end results of Dean's adjustments and "corrections" were so very far off from any known and accepted Target Curve that would actually produce pleasing results, that it is scary and honestly a disservice to the car audio enthusiast community.
Dean obviously has HEAPS of installation and OEM integration knowledge and wisdom. But *properly* Measuring and then Tuning a car audio system that uses a DSP is an entirely different skill set.
Unfortunately, they have limited time to produce these videos properly, and that along with Dean's ADD forced him to skip or not thoroughly explore the necessary processes that produce a successful tune.
The process he used and the ultimate "tune" that he ended up with may sound "exciting" and "good" at first listen by the general audio enthusiast when they pick up their vehicle, but IMHO, it will be far from ideal over the long term and across all genres of music and recordings, leaving A LOT of room for improvement on the table.
If you want to watch in-depth videos that clearly explain the process of taking measurements and system tuning using a DSP, check out the more recent *JL Audio* videos using their *TüN* v4.x software.
If you want to learn through hands-on experience, check if former IASCA World Champion, Mark Eldridge, is still offering classes through his *MSE* Tuning Course (Mobile Soundstage Engineering). COVID might have postponed these courses or clinics...I haven't checked in a few years.
To be fair, IME, 90% of car stereo enthusiasts wouldn't really appreciate or want a properly tuned and "balanced" SQ system. I've also found that a lot of people don't really care about recreating an accurate soundstage with pinpoint imaging in their vehicle. They really just want a loud, clean system with "killer" bass, and a fully enveloping experience.
For example, Fernando really likes an over abundant amount of sparkle and sizzle from his tweeters that would drive most musicians, audiophiles, or studio engineers nuts.
Anyhow...
Good luck with your new system and install...and enjoy the music!
@@bbfoto7248 Jesus Christ, are you retired, or something. Ain’t nobody got time to read all that.
Tl;dr if you’re happy, I’m happy for you. Just don’t forget to be nice to people.
@Kenny Bales
Well, if you can't keep your attention focused long enough to read a few paragraphs in a RUclips comment, I don't know what to tell you. :-/
I'm a photographer, gaffer, musician, and home & car audio enthusiast that cares enough to take the time to try to educate people so that they might gain more satisfaction from their stereo system regardless of how much money they have invested in it. I hate seeing people spend a lot of money on good equipment and a DSP and not get the absolute best performance and enjoyment out of it!
Proper acoustic measurements and DSP system tuning are in-depth topics and skills with MANY technical facits. No Pain, No Gain.
Everyone these days expects to be spoon-fed and only wants to watch videos...can't be bothered to actually READ and learn, FFS!
Sorry if I'm not being "nice", but people these days are lazy AF! SMDH
Terrible explanation.. you’re just telling people what you’re doing… which is useless.
better use jl audio and Tün4. waaay more advanced and detailed instead of this Audiocontrol garbage.