I only own one plane, a #6, and I use it for everything :) I just need to adjust it for the job in hand, over the years I have acquired extra irons etc, so I just swap them out, it does get a bit tedious sometimes, but the sole is in great shape, and true all round, so it always gets the job done.
Since I've become interested in woodworking about a year ago, I've watched uncounted numbers of videos adding up to 10s of hours just on hand plane types, common names and functions. This single 10 minute video has summed everything I've learned and what people need to learn about the Standley 1-8 plane types. Great video!
I'm so happy I found your channel! You take the time to discuss all aspects of a topic, the quality is very good, and your demeanor is accommodating. A+ my friend! I have a ton of flea market and yard sale tools that I've been restoring, and I am getting ready to get a workshop space together in my basement. Your videos are helping me a great deal.
Thanks for taking time to share all your knowledge with us. I know you enjoy making these videos, but it still is very generous of you to script and produce such well filmed and edited material.
James thanks for all the good info you put out there. I just wanted to thank you for the plane video, and also the one where you describe in detail on how to set one up. i recently been trying to use hand tools a little more, and I have been enjoying it. Part of that is from having a Tormek sharpener, a sharp tool is so much nicer to use. I wanted to let you know I have been finishing putting some trim up in my kitchen and I was fitting it around the cabinets. After watching how to set up a plane I was able to get the thinest shavings in maple, and it fit perfectly. I never realized you move a chip breaker so close to the end of the blade. Thanks again, and thank you for sharing
Great vid... although I spent the whole time looking at the low angle jack wondering what it’s best for & whether I should get one... never even referenced it! Lol
Sotty. I wish I took it off the bench for that video. this one was just focusing on the standard planes. I have e newer video where I included that and several others. and I also have a video that is dedicated to bevel up vs Bevel down if you want to see that.
Thank you, I'm just learning about planes and I don't know how/why they are numbered and how someone can look at a plane that's not numbered and say, "Oh, that's a No. 5 plane." Thank you for explaining the different numbers and what they are used for. It was very helpful. I have an old plane with no markings, i.e. no brand or number, and was wondering which one it was. I'm sure that now if I use the info you shared I may be able to figure it out. Thank you again.
Well today at my local flea market. I found a Stanley 140 rabbit plane for $5. It is missing the side plate but even it needs a good cleaning. The blade is still sharp and makes a nice thin shaving.
Awesome information as always James. I'm always learning something new from your videos I really appreciate all your work you do to get the information and videos out for this awesome woodworking community thanks again.
Thank you for another great video. I very much look forward to when you get more planes. :) -And thank you for explaning the details of the plains below #4 and when to use those for plane people. -I always got those plain things messed up.
It takes a LOT longer but like you said... a no. 4 will do it all. If you want to joint a real long piece... set the blade reeeeeealy shallow. Less than paper thin. It will get it straight enough with time and patience. Great video from 1.5 years ago. :-D I know I’m horrible with keeping up.
Thanks for another great video. There are a lot of confusion on planes, you have cleared up some of it. Add to it other quality brands with their own numbering.
Wood By Wright Yes, those are are also out there. Plus various block planes, specialty planes, transition planes, and combination planes. But they are fun. Also I like the sound and the feel of a good plane.
nice! Please make a video how to correct setup a plane for different type of work. Your videos of how to correct use handtools are great! My handsaw skills are already improving.
Very informative! I am fairly new to woodworking . I kind of went backwards buying a great deal of power tools (which I still use) but am finding a great deal of pleasure using hand tools. I bought a #4 Wood River and absolutely love it. I purchased a low angle #62 jack plane from them last night so I can't wait to try it out. I have a cheap Stanley block plane but rarely use it because it is pretty much junk. I will probably get a better one soon but after spending $200 on the #62 I will have to wait till I build up some honey do points 😉 Keep up the good work!
Wood By Wright I am reeeeally greatful for your video. Planes have been a real mystery, and... I guess it's silly in this day, and age, but a lot of ppl are intimidated to ask.
Love your videos and you are a great resource for hand tools, but I think you only covered half of the selection process for a particular task. You eluded to the different styles of irons to be used, and it would be a great help if you could show them and describe how to form the cutting edge for the specific task, and also show the optimum mouth formation for each as well. Thanks for all your great work and keep up the good work
Great and informative video as always. I to am missing the bailey #1 and #2. I also have no desire to spend the money on them. Finishing up some restores on a couple #3s and #4s (forgot I bought one of each awhile back and ended up buying some more), just need some warm weather to paint in.
I have a wooden block 15" long X 2 1/2" wide X 1 1/2 high with a metal frame(saddle) with a large standard front ball handle & a full grip back handle. the blade is a 45 degrees & a brass horizontal adjustment. Also has a a side to side adjustment at the top, that moves left to right. On the blade has STANLEY/PAT APL 1992 ON IT, but I can not find a size number. Question is what kind of plane is it & will it clean up a table top made of constriction grade lumber? I am making an farmhouse table this summer for use in a wedding, my first table & they want a rustic look.
Can you please explain, in a close up detail video, how the blades should be ground and how wide the mouths should be for various tasks and situations? Also, would I ruin a plane’s ability to cut smooth if I widen the mouth to also use it for scrub cutting?
Here's a video on setting up a smoothing plane. If you can do this you can do it for any other plane. All other planes are just more open or bigger mouth. You only need to tighten everything up if you're doing very precise difficult smoothing. ruclips.net/video/LJ9-LGMO7OA/видео.html If you have specific questions feel free to send me an email I'll be glad to help. jameswright@woodbywright.com
Great video and lots of good info. You didn't mention the newer Low Angle Jack, which is an awesome plane! I use it between my scrub plane and No 7. I'ts also my go to plane for shooting and any end grain work.
+David Justice yup. I have made several videos on that. Here is one ruclips.net/video/X65OLedIbyk/видео.html I use almost all figured wood so it is mostly relegated to the shooting board. But they are a lot of fun.
Awesome, I've been looking to try to understand more about hand planes. This helped out a lot. Do you have a video or could you make a video in how to set up the irons for certain tasks? Thanks
sure I have several videos on that but if you learn how to set it up for fine smoothing then you will be able to set it up for anything. here is the video on that. ruclips.net/video/vG-DULSw6Zk/видео.html
Very instructive. I've picked up a few wood bodied planes and was wondering if you have any and if so, could you do a video on the types and setting them up.
I picked up an old Craftsman 7Cbb Last night and have a couple other Craftsman / Dunlap planes. Other than the 7CBB I have got them all cheap. Restoring them has been fun....well cleaning them up to usable level counts as restoring them right? I haven't repainted but have de-rusted, resharpened and got them working nice
Great vid and explanation. I just ordered a woodriver low angle block plane as my first plane but have no idea which stones to buy to sharpen it and the planes i'll buy as i get better.
The No. 5 1/4 while being narrower than a No. 5 is also shorter, only 11 1/2" rather than 14", more like a skinny 4 1/2 than a 5. It seems to be the oddball in the numbering system.
From what I have learned, the 5 1/4 was predominate used in school woodshop settings where younger users could get some "jack" work done a little easier. I don't know if it's true, but that's my story.
For me its the 5's. I have a bailey type 9, 50's craftsman (millers falls make) and a new Stanley SW 62. Reach for them far more than the no4. After that I find the no3 finds its way into my hand after that. Maybe I just like odd numbers?
@@WoodByWright i will most likely wear out my arms in the next few days. i remember my father making walnut gun stocks with nothing but hand tools. He would hand checker them and carve deer and birds into the sides. I guess i have fallen into another hobby of his. Could it be in the blood?
Awesome video! Can you do a video explaining the difference between bevel up, bevel down, and low angle planes? All of that can be a little confusing. Thanks for sharing!
Hi great video and great way of teaching I am your newest subscriber. New to planes and purchased a Stanley#4 Baileys with a CORRIGATED BOTTOM . can you give me an idea of age and PROS /CONS of a CORRIGATED bottom. And your preference by looks assume flat bottom from this video
Stanly made the corigated bottom and advertised that it is easer to push. The fact is it is not easer to push, but they are more colectable and easer to flatten. I have some that are corigated, but most are smooth bottomed because they are more common
Thanks for the info. If I am looking at getting back into the hobby and never had use for planes before but now that I am older and value quality, I'm looking at the planes. I have an option to pick up a #4 and #5 for 30. based on the info shared, would you recommend setting the 5 up as a jointer and the 4 as a smother?
It all depends on the projects you're wanting to make but for most of them that's what I would do let the number 5 be a little bit bigger mouth and then set up the number 4 was a really fine mouth and tight chip breaker
Awesome video, James! I'm curious how/where the versatility of the LAJ and and your new Veritas custom #4 fit into that spectrum of choices. Or maybe just your rationale for setting them up for one thing vs. another. I can't take my eyes off that Veritas Custom #4 after your video...
that would be interesting. here is one I did on the Low Angle jack, ruclips.net/video/X65OLedIbyk/видео.html but I basicly leave the Custom Veritas setup for fine finish planning.
as usual informative and helpful video. thank you. Q: what is the difference between serrated plane and plain plane, and if they are the same exactly which one will be better?
@@WoodByWright thank you for replying. Please, go to this link of Grizzly industrial, and you will see it. www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-14-Serrated-Plane/H7565
LOL I had no idea they decided to call it serrated. That is funny! that is generally called Corrugated. the sole has groves cut into it. originally Stanley advertised corrugated planes as being easer to push. Unfortunately the math does not fit and they take just as much force to push. but the myth has stuck and some people still love them. They are easer to flatten but you generally do not need to do that more then once a decade or more. they can cause problems when planning thin stock some times. In the antique world Corrugated planes cost more as there are less of them. But for general use most people do not like them. I hope that answers your questions. if you have more feel free to email me at jamesWright@woodbywright.com I generally do not see replies on here.
Great video! I'm new to woodworking and you do an awesome job of explaining everything without putting everyone to sleep. Question: Why is it that plane irons with heavy cambers are able to take off so much more material than those without a heavy camber? Thanks for the help!
Sarah Hopson the camber on the iron allows the plane to cut deeper in two ways. first it stops the traditionaly sharp corners of the iron from digging in making the plane easier to push and the second way is that you are only taking the heaviest portion of the shaving at the very center of the iron and then thinning at the edges of the iron making it possible to push through the cut without having herculean superhuman strength hope this answers your question and good luck to you on your adventures in woodwork
Wood By Wright Rob Cosman made a good video about why he likes the #5 for shooting, but Ya, pretty much everything from #4 and up would work. Rob likes #5 for shooting because of its length and mass, giving enough momentum to shoot well but not too heavy to be tiring. How well do you think a bevel up jack would do for shooting?
I have heard the experts tout the #4 rise and fall issue. NEVER have I actually seen it demonstrated. For the condition to be true the pitch would have to be in at least 12 inch?? increments and depths of?? .010"?? So, to save 3 or 400 hundred bucks on super long planes.... I choose a straight edge. I tend to classify this argument in the same "my appendage is greater than yours" venue as sharpening to 8000. Which is a whole nuther area that no one actually verifies that 8000 is demonstrably 16times easier to use than 1000.
I recently got a new cheap Spears & Jackson no. 5 and I smoothed out the frog surfaces and did a general tune up. Now the blade doesn't retract fully when the adjustment knob is turned all the way forward. I have the chip breaker as close to the blade as it can possibly go. Is there something I'm missing, or is is it what I suspect, that maybe the blade is just too long? Is this common with a new plane? It's actually quite a nice solid plane but the adjustment at the end is annoying. I had to do quite a bit of tuning to get the frog smooth, removing bits of paint, filing, sanding, grinding, etc, I even had to make the housing for the frog adjustment a bit larger because the frog was basically sitting on the adjustment nut, and not totally on the base. I can get the blade to move back the final few millimetres by pulling the blade up with my hand, or by moving the blade lever back and forth a few times, but that's a PITA as I then have to make sure the blade is level again. The obvious solution, I suppose, is just to grind the blade down a bit so that it's a little shorter. Or maybe even take a bit off of the chip breaker, or both? Or I could even take a bit off the back of the frog where it touches the adjustment knob, so that the knob can move forward a little further?
the chipbraker determines how far the frog extends. the depth adjuster yoke goes through the iron and connects withe the slot in the chip breaker. if you file out a bit of metal from the front of that slot that will allow it to back up a bit so it does not push the iron as far forward. if you want some pictures on that send me an email and I can discus it further there. sorry I do not normally get notified if someone replies to a comment here.
@@WoodByWright Ah yes, I did definitely notice that the frog probably wouldn't move much further forward because of the chipbreaker. I'm using it almost as a smoothing plane. I'll definitely keep the idea of filing the adjustment gap in the chipbreaker in mind though, thanks. It would mean, that the adjustment would have more play in it before the yoke catches on the other side when spinning the adjustment wheel. There's not a lot in it, so perhaps a little from each might be best, from the edge of the chipbreaker, depending on how thick it is, and a little bit from the notch. And yes, the blade is irrelevant, don't know why I thought shortening it would solve the problem! I suppose there's always the option of bending the yoke back a little bit, but I'd be a bit cautions of bending it too far for fear that it would just end up pushing up on the back of the chipbraker if it misses the hole, or wears itself on the edge of the chipbreaker hole if it doesn't catch enough of it. I have an old Dronfield plane that's in this situation; the adjustment hole in the chipbreaker has a little groove worn into it and the yoke sometimes doesn't catch it. Or maybe it's just that somebody filed it down. The Dronfield actually has the opposite problem to the S&J, the adjustment wheel has to be almost off the bolt before the blade protrudes! Which is why I kind of use it as a scrub plane with the chipbreaker a good few millimetres back from blade to compensate. I suppose there's always the option of trying to switch yokes between the planes, or making new ones, they look pretty straightforward. It looks like everybody copied Stanley, but didn't always get the little things right.
its a nice thought having all the plane sizes from stanley but let me know how you do on the number 1 there hard to find and crazy expensive good luck!
thanks. I see them all the time but I can not justify the $600-$900 price tag. especially sense it would just look good on the wall. but in my case i have an excuse that I can teach with it, even if it is just to say that it is pointless. LOL
Can you mention your opinion of the best "value" brand(s)? Value can mean many things but here I'm referring to a tool that is built to last but is priced competitively, for a serious, but not pro, carpenter. (Without naming names)The forums I read seem to make it a clear black and white issue. It's either brand x or nothing...which happens to be on the highest end of the cost spectrum. Sometimes it is worth saving to buy the most expensive. I don't think so here. Also, if time permits, are there 2-3 planes you'd recommend besides the block plane to get started? Thank you in advance and appreciate all the videos I've been able to watch by WbW.
I don't like to talk about Brands much because they change drastically over the years and one-brand may have a great model at one time but 20 years later have a bad model. I tried to show what to look for in a hand plane rather than looking at a particular model. As to what plane to purchase first a number four or number five is generally the best to get going a block plane is actually one that is not used very often in a hand tool shop, but in a power tool shop it is more common.
Great video James! Any idea of what a Stanley No.2 can be used for. I am restoring one now, just because I wanted to have a full set, but apart from being shorter and lighter, do you have any thoughts on other upsides or downsides to the No. 2? Not many RUclips videos out there about this plane....
it is very useful for smoothing natural faces that have a lot of wave to them. not common and there are not a lot of uses, but they look great in the set!
I'm in the store now, thanks for the info, I'm going to get a 4 and try and do everything to make it Flat and sand after or maybe not let's see. What does Rasp plane do? Curious because I'm looking at it.
Some people use the number 6 all the time for me it's one of my least used planes. If I need something long I usually go with the number 7 and if I need something in the middle I usually go with the number 5.
As an Organbuilder I just COULD NOT have done my job without my No.8 ABSOLUTELY and CATEGORICALLY, if you don’t know what the purpose of this tool, then you don’t need it!!
I was listening for some ways the 4-1/2 can distinguish itself, but you skipped it again and again. I’m about to finish the parts for my cherry hutch, and I’m hoping the 4-1/2 can give me a smooth-as-glass surface. Any thoughts?
some people like to use a number 3 as a smoothing plane I like to use a number 4 personally some people like to use a 4 1/2. It all depends on personal preference.
I have only one plane right now I’m just starting, I have a Stanley Bailey no 4, what is the next one you suggest I should get? And wich plane should I get for a scrub plane?
That all depends on what you make. if you will be doing large jointing in the future then a #7 or #8 would be a good one. if you don't know what you are doing then I would say a #5. a scrub plane can me most any plane you make it and different people will have different ideas about what is best. I say whatever hunk of junk you find. but I like the size of a #5 for it.
can you turn the bevel up or down on any plane or do you need a specific plane that works with the bevel up and one that works with the bevel down.......thanks for any info.
the pland has to be setup for Bevel up or down. usually a bevel up plane has a bed that the iron sits on down at 12 degrees where as a bevel down. (most planes) has the bed at around 45 degrees.
@@WoodByWright thank you for the quick response.........if most planes are bevel down what is the advantage or need for a bevel up plane.....once again,thanks....am trying to learn anything i can to help my woodworking.
@@yardlimit8695 Historically, they were only used for end grain work such as flattening a large end grain butcher block, but recently the power tool user has enjoyed them as they are easier to set up, some people sware by them and it is the only plane they have. I have a whole video on it if you seach for Bevel up Vs bevel down.
Okay, I'm still confused. So where does a No. 33 Bench Plane fit into all this? It obviously isn't four times larger than your No. 8 plane, as your number explanation implies. Instead, it's roughly the same size as a No. 4 Jack Plane. Should we read that number as 3.3, as 3 3/4, or something else entirely?
So you give my goofy comment a little heart 1 year after I said it. Is it some kind of anniversary things or something? ;) Miss you too James, hope to see you again maybe next year. Little heart back at you ;)lol
Would you recommend the new Stanley planes? Being new to woodworking, I'd like to get a decent number 4 to start, as opposed to a restoration. Or is there any other brand to break one into this wonderful world?
+William Shetler they were originally advertised as easer to push through the wood but that is not true. They take the same force. Some people like them, but they are not high on my list.
the types are all over the place I have one type 2 a couple type 12 (my favorite) and the rest are in between. I buy them all over the place. but here are two videos that show most of the places I buy tools. The map: ruclips.net/video/iFedo5HK__I/видео.html The MWTCA Meets: ruclips.net/video/7xRnhksUQz0/видео.html An overview of some of the places: ruclips.net/video/63CsakoFr14/видео.html
Funny thing, yesterday I had some issues with using my plane to try flatten wood. The knob in the front flew of! I couldn't find one of the parts so had to work without the knob
Wood By Wright My father has a stock too, but I would have wasted hours to even find that, the garden shed is his terrain and there is barely space to walk in it, let alone to get some work done, so I just finished what I started, and when he came home, he went searching in his scrap pile. I hope to get some last footage of the project shot, and by tomorrow it will be online, can't leave such funny moments out of RUclips!
I was using it outdoors, never found the part again, put a replacement was found in one of the scrap piles. If interested, I made my first project upload and at the end I included footage of 'the accident'
But my question was: what the heck do i do with my imagionary box of nr 1s? And why isnt the nr9 a bigger 8? And why isnt there a nr 0? And why are these planes so expensive here, even in deplorable condition? Nice overview!
Which plane would you use on oak floor. I am thinking to keep a rustic, old look to just plane high spots, skip sanding since board finish is pretty good then use vinegar and iron stain to age finish, fill knots n cracks with bar coat and finish with six coats of minwax poly. Here is a vid of mine showing number 3 mixed red n white oak. I dont mind a few low boards in floor. ruclips.net/video/IyKBeKYL4PQ/видео.html
for that I normally use a shorter plane like a #4. but scraping is the traditional way to smooth a floor. here is a video of me doing it on my dining room. ruclips.net/video/MopMGkqaiPM/видео.html
I was just covering the first 8 of the Stanley numbers (the ones that make sense) lol here is a video on LAJP. ruclips.net/video/X65OLedIbyk/видео.html
sell all those old stanley and get some good planes from record or millars falls i am a cabinet maker in uk for 40yr plus the most sed plane for me is the record 4.1/2 some good mass also the no6 is the original fore plane as before any other plane if you ever get chance to get a german wooden plane with a horn handle get 1 you will not be dissapointed
+speg hetti no. In this one I just covered the first 8 in the stanly numbers. The LAJP is a much later plane. I do have another video showing the differences between low angle and traditional planes.
I only own one plane, a #6, and I use it for everything :)
I just need to adjust it for the job in hand, over the years I have acquired extra irons etc, so I just swap them out, it does get a bit tedious sometimes, but the sole is in great shape, and true all round, so it always gets the job done.
right on. you really only need one!
I'm just getting into traditional tools and you have explained the planes thoroughly and I now have a good understanding of them, thanks for sharing!
thank you! that means a lot!
Since I've become interested in woodworking about a year ago, I've watched uncounted numbers of videos adding up to 10s of hours just on hand plane types, common names and functions. This single 10 minute video has summed everything I've learned and what people need to learn about the Standley 1-8 plane types. Great video!
thank you. that means a lot.
I'm so happy I found your channel! You take the time to discuss all aspects of a topic, the quality is very good, and your demeanor is accommodating. A+ my friend! I have a ton of flea market and yard sale tools that I've been restoring, and I am getting ready to get a workshop space together in my basement. Your videos are helping me a great deal.
thanks you Michael, that means a lot. got a lot more planned in the future. let me know if you have a topic you would like me to talk on.
Thanks for taking time to share all your knowledge with us. I know you enjoy making these videos, but it still is very generous of you to script and produce such well filmed and edited material.
thank you. that means a lot. if there is ever something you would like to see let me know.
James thanks for all the good info you put out there. I just wanted to thank you for the plane video, and also the one where you describe in detail on how to set one up. i recently been trying to use hand tools a little more, and I have been enjoying it. Part of that is from having a Tormek sharpener, a sharp tool is so much nicer to use. I wanted to let you know I have been finishing putting some trim up in my kitchen and I was fitting it around the cabinets. After watching how to set up a plane I was able to get the thinest shavings in maple, and it fit perfectly. I never realized you move a chip breaker so close to the end of the blade. Thanks again, and thank you for sharing
thanks for the encouragement. that means a lot. if you ever need help with anything just ask.
Great vid... although I spent the whole time looking at the low angle jack wondering what it’s best for & whether I should get one... never even referenced it! Lol
Sotty. I wish I took it off the bench for that video. this one was just focusing on the standard planes. I have e newer video where I included that and several others. and I also have a video that is dedicated to bevel up vs Bevel down if you want to see that.
Thank you, I'm just learning about planes and I don't know how/why they are numbered and how someone can look at a plane that's not numbered and say, "Oh, that's a No. 5 plane." Thank you for explaining the different numbers and what they are used for. It was very helpful. I have an old plane with no markings, i.e. no brand or number, and was wondering which one it was. I'm sure that now if I use the info you shared I may be able to figure it out. Thank you again.
Sounds good. They made a lot of different plans back in the day
Well today at my local flea market. I found a Stanley 140 rabbit plane for $5. It is missing the side plate but even it needs a good cleaning. The blade is still sharp and makes a nice thin shaving.
Nice find!
Excellent exposition and a great roundup upon planes. Thanks a lot
+Franco Giannotti thanks Franco
Glad I ran across your video! Great information that’ll help me select a few planes for my wood shop. I can’t wait to get back into it!
Sweet John. Glad I could help. If you ever have questions ask away.
Excellent tutorial. Even a rookie will be well informed.
Thanks.
Very thorough
I’m just getting started with making furniture
I’m going to try to use the old school style
Looking all your videos right now
Thanks man. If you ever have questions, just ask.
Awesome. Just awesome. Thanks for this *super* helpful video from someone who is just starting out.
Thanks man. If you ever have a question please feel free to ask.
Thank you James that makes things clearer for us beginners :)
+Doc Darkness thanks doc. Glad I could help.
Awesome information as always James. I'm always learning something new from your videos I really appreciate all your work you do to get the information and videos out for this awesome woodworking community thanks again.
+Thom spillane thanks Thom it is a pleasure for me.
Thank you for another great video. I very much look forward to when you get more planes. :)
-And thank you for explaning the details of the plains below #4 and when to use those for plane people. -I always got those plain things messed up.
Thanks. I actually do have a video now where I cover all of them. Makes for a very fun show off.
It takes a LOT longer but like you said... a no. 4 will do it all. If you want to joint a real long piece... set the blade reeeeeealy shallow. Less than paper thin. It will get it straight enough with time and patience. Great video from 1.5 years ago. :-D I know I’m horrible with keeping up.
Lol yup. Thanks man.
Thanks for another great video. There are a lot of confusion on planes, you have cleared up some of it. Add to it other quality brands with their own numbering.
+Ken DeHaas lol yes then you get into the Stanley bedrock numbers!
Wood By Wright Yes, those are are also out there. Plus various block planes, specialty planes, transition planes, and combination planes. But they are fun. Also I like the sound and the feel of a good plane.
nice! Please make a video how to correct setup a plane for different type of work.
Your videos of how to correct use handtools are great! My handsaw skills are already improving.
+Ernst van Spronsen thanks. That means a lot. I might have to do that some time.
Very informative! I am fairly new to woodworking . I kind of went backwards buying a great deal of power tools (which I still use) but am finding a great deal of pleasure using hand tools. I bought a #4 Wood River and absolutely love it. I purchased a low angle #62 jack plane from them last night so I can't wait to try it out. I have a cheap Stanley block plane but rarely use it because it is pretty much junk. I will probably get a better one soon but after spending $200 on the #62 I will have to wait till I build up some honey do points 😉 Keep up the good work!
LOL the commodity of the house is Wife happiness. sounds like a fun time!
As always, very informative
Thanks! The video I have been searching for!
My pleasure. I am just looking for a #1 then I will do a video with all of them. it should be fun!
Thank you much I think I'm going for the number 5 !!
good one to start with. don't have too much fun!
Awesome video Mister Wright, appreciate all that insight.
+Randy Wright thanks. My pleasure.
FINALLY! Ty for going over all that! Subscribed!
Thanks. I want to do a more comprehensive one in the future but we will see.
Wood By Wright You should subscribe to my silly@$$ channel. I like that you replied, you haven't gotten "youtubehead"
Wood By Wright I am reeeeally greatful for your video. Planes have been a real mystery, and... I guess it's silly in this day, and age, but a lot of ppl are intimidated to ask.
Stop it. Now I'm on Ebay spending more money
+Badger Workshop lol that is what happens when you look at hand tool videos.
Its planely addicting, ain't it?
LOL
Hello I'm here because of Chop with Chris!
You earned yourself a new Subscriber!
thank you. We had a lot of fun today messing around in the shop.
Love your videos and you are a great resource for hand tools, but I think you only covered half of the selection process for a particular task. You eluded to the different styles of irons to be used, and it would be a great help if you could show them and describe how to form the cutting edge for the specific task, and also show the optimum mouth formation for each as well. Thanks for all your great work and keep up the good work
thanks. I have covered those in several other videos. I might do a long extensive one in the future, but we will see.
Great and informative video as always. I to am missing the bailey #1 and #2. I also have no desire to spend the money on them. Finishing up some restores on a couple #3s and #4s (forgot I bought one of each awhile back and ended up buying some more), just need some warm weather to paint in.
Sweet! I love seeing old tools come back to life.
Mmmmm....No. 8....
it is a fun beast!
Collab vid?
I have a wooden block 15" long X 2 1/2" wide X 1 1/2 high with a metal frame(saddle) with a large standard front ball handle & a full grip back handle. the blade is a 45 degrees & a brass horizontal adjustment. Also has a a side to side adjustment at the top, that moves left to right.
On the blade has STANLEY/PAT APL 1992 ON IT, but I can not find a size number.
Question is what kind of plane is it & will it clean up a table top made of constriction grade lumber? I am making an farmhouse table this summer for use in a wedding, my first table & they want a rustic look.
It sounds like a Transitional plane. Feel free to send me an email with a picture. 1992 Pat is confusing to me. jameswright@woodbywright.com
Can you please explain, in a close up detail video, how the blades should be ground and how wide the mouths should be for various tasks and situations? Also, would I ruin a plane’s ability to cut smooth if I widen the mouth to also use it for scrub cutting?
Here's a video on setting up a smoothing plane. If you can do this you can do it for any other plane. All other planes are just more open or bigger mouth. You only need to tighten everything up if you're doing very precise difficult smoothing. ruclips.net/video/LJ9-LGMO7OA/видео.html If you have specific questions feel free to send me an email I'll be glad to help. jameswright@woodbywright.com
Great overview, this was really helpful!
+YouCanMakeThisToo thanks. Glad I could help.
Thank you, Sir. Very good video.
thanks!
Very good! Thank you James.
my pleasure Robert!
Great video and lots of good info. You didn't mention the newer Low Angle Jack, which is an awesome plane! I use it between my scrub plane and No 7. I'ts also my go to plane for shooting and any end grain work.
+David Justice yup. I have made several videos on that. Here is one ruclips.net/video/X65OLedIbyk/видео.html I use almost all figured wood so it is mostly relegated to the shooting board. But they are a lot of fun.
Awesome, I've been looking to try to understand more about hand planes. This helped out a lot. Do you have a video or could you make a video in how to set up the irons for certain tasks? Thanks
sure I have several videos on that but if you learn how to set it up for fine smoothing then you will be able to set it up for anything. here is the video on that. ruclips.net/video/vG-DULSw6Zk/видео.html
Thanks, I will check it out!
Very instructive. I've picked up a few wood bodied planes and was wondering if you have any and if so, could you do a video on the types and setting them up.
thnaks. I do have a few. I have on my list. restoring, setup, use and types. but I do not know when I will have time to get around to them.
Great information, thanks for sharing it.
+Bill K. Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi there from Portugal,
Nice "Plane" Video :D
Obrigado(Thanks)
I picked up an old Craftsman 7Cbb Last night and have a couple other Craftsman / Dunlap planes. Other than the 7CBB I have got them all cheap. Restoring them has been fun....well cleaning them up to usable level counts as restoring them right? I haven't repainted but have de-rusted, resharpened and got them working nice
Nice. Sounds like a fun time!
Very helpful video! Great content as always!
thanks Greg
Great vid and explanation. I just ordered a woodriver low angle block plane as my first plane but have no idea which stones to buy to sharpen it and the planes i'll buy as i get better.
fantastic. the video I just put out later is talking about what stones to chose. Diamonds, wet stones, or even sandpaper. have fun with it!
Awesome! I'm gonna look for it. Thank you! :D
The No. 5 1/4 while being narrower than a No. 5 is also shorter, only 11 1/2" rather than 14", more like a skinny 4 1/2 than a 5. It seems to be the oddball in the numbering system.
That it is.
From what I have learned, the 5 1/4 was predominate used in school woodshop settings where younger users could get some "jack" work done a little easier. I don't know if it's true, but that's my story.
Very good info James! Thanks so much for the video!
+donny carter thanks donny. Glad I could help
Thanks for posting!
My pleasure!
For me its the 5's. I have a bailey type 9, 50's craftsman (millers falls make) and a new Stanley SW 62. Reach for them far more than the no4. After that I find the no3 finds its way into my hand after that. Maybe I just like odd numbers?
+CongaFly perfict. There are so many ways to do it.
just got my first plane today. A pre war #4, already make strips
SWEET! dont have too much fun!
@@WoodByWright i will most likely wear out my arms in the next few days. i remember my father making walnut gun stocks with nothing but hand tools. He would hand checker them and carve deer and birds into the sides. I guess i have fallen into another hobby of his. Could it be in the blood?
Good info James. Thanks.
thanks man!
Great job James!
+Jim Dockrell (The Watertone Workshop) thanks jim
Awesome video! Can you do a video explaining the difference between bevel up, bevel down, and low angle planes? All of that can be a little confusing. Thanks for sharing!
+JT Woodworks here you go. It is older but still has good info.
Hi great video and great way of teaching I am your newest subscriber. New to planes and purchased a Stanley#4 Baileys with a CORRIGATED BOTTOM . can you give me an idea of age and PROS /CONS of a CORRIGATED bottom. And your preference by looks assume flat bottom from this video
Stanly made the corigated bottom and advertised that it is easer to push. The fact is it is not easer to push, but they are more colectable and easer to flatten. I have some that are corigated, but most are smooth bottomed because they are more common
Thanks for the info. If I am looking at getting back into the hobby and never had use for planes before but now that I am older and value quality, I'm looking at the planes. I have an option to pick up a #4 and #5 for 30. based on the info shared, would you recommend setting the 5 up as a jointer and the 4 as a smother?
It all depends on the projects you're wanting to make but for most of them that's what I would do let the number 5 be a little bit bigger mouth and then set up the number 4 was a really fine mouth and tight chip breaker
somewhere James there's a guy with a box load of Stanley number one planes just laughing his butt off. very informative nice video.
+Opa's Workshop lol thanks.
Awesome video, James! I'm curious how/where the versatility of the LAJ and and your new Veritas custom #4 fit into that spectrum of choices. Or maybe just your rationale for setting them up for one thing vs. another. I can't take my eyes off that Veritas Custom #4 after your video...
that would be interesting. here is one I did on the Low Angle jack, ruclips.net/video/X65OLedIbyk/видео.html but I basicly leave the Custom Veritas setup for fine finish planning.
as usual informative and helpful video. thank you.
Q: what is the difference between serrated plane and plain plane, and if they are the same exactly which one will be better?
are you referring to a corrugated bottom, or a tooting plane iron? sorry I am not familiar with the term serrated plane
@@WoodByWright
thank you for replying. Please, go to this link of Grizzly industrial, and you will see it.
www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-14-Serrated-Plane/H7565
LOL I had no idea they decided to call it serrated. That is funny! that is generally called Corrugated. the sole has groves cut into it. originally Stanley advertised corrugated planes as being easer to push. Unfortunately the math does not fit and they take just as much force to push. but the myth has stuck and some people still love them. They are easer to flatten but you generally do not need to do that more then once a decade or more. they can cause problems when planning thin stock some times. In the antique world Corrugated planes cost more as there are less of them. But for general use most people do not like them. I hope that answers your questions. if you have more feel free to email me at jamesWright@woodbywright.com I generally do not see replies on here.
@@WoodByWright
thank you very much.
Great video!
Thanks Stevie!
Great video! I'm new to woodworking and you do an awesome job of explaining everything without putting everyone to sleep. Question: Why is it that plane irons with heavy cambers are able to take off so much more material than those without a heavy camber? Thanks for the help!
+Sarah Hopson thanks. It is because they afectivly are thinner and easer to push through the wood.
Sarah Hopson the camber on the iron allows the plane to cut deeper in two ways. first it stops the traditionaly sharp corners of the iron from digging in making the plane easier to push and the second way is that you are only taking the heaviest portion of the shaving at the very center of the iron and then thinning at the edges of the iron making it possible to push through the cut without having herculean superhuman strength hope this answers your question and good luck to you on your adventures in woodwork
Thanks, very informative.
Thanks!
#5 also excels on the shooting board, so I've heard.
a lot of people like it for that. but there are a lot of opinions on that one.
Wood By Wright Rob Cosman made a good video about why he likes the #5 for shooting, but Ya, pretty much everything from #4 and up would work. Rob likes #5 for shooting because of its length and mass, giving enough momentum to shoot well but not too heavy to be tiring. How well do you think a bevel up jack would do for shooting?
the Bevel up jack is my preferred plane for shooting.
I have heard the experts tout the #4 rise and fall issue. NEVER have I actually seen it demonstrated. For the condition to be true the pitch would have to be in at least 12 inch?? increments and depths of?? .010"?? So, to save 3 or 400 hundred bucks on super long planes.... I choose a straight edge. I tend to classify this argument in the same "my appendage is greater than yours" venue as sharpening to 8000. Which is a whole nuther area that no one actually verifies that 8000 is demonstrably 16times easier to use than 1000.
I recently got a new cheap Spears & Jackson no. 5 and I smoothed out the frog surfaces and did a general tune up. Now the blade doesn't retract fully when the adjustment knob is turned all the way forward. I have the chip breaker as close to the blade as it can possibly go.
Is there something I'm missing, or is is it what I suspect, that maybe the blade is just too long? Is this common with a new plane?
It's actually quite a nice solid plane but the adjustment at the end is annoying.
I had to do quite a bit of tuning to get the frog smooth, removing bits of paint, filing, sanding, grinding, etc, I even had to make the housing for the frog adjustment a bit larger because the frog was basically sitting on the adjustment nut, and not totally on the base.
I can get the blade to move back the final few millimetres by pulling the blade up with my hand, or by moving the blade lever back and forth a few times, but that's a PITA as I then have to make sure the blade is level again.
The obvious solution, I suppose, is just to grind the blade down a bit so that it's a little shorter. Or maybe even take a bit off of the chip breaker, or both?
Or I could even take a bit off the back of the frog where it touches the adjustment knob, so that the knob can move forward a little further?
the chipbraker determines how far the frog extends. the depth adjuster yoke goes through the iron and connects withe the slot in the chip breaker. if you file out a bit of metal from the front of that slot that will allow it to back up a bit so it does not push the iron as far forward. if you want some pictures on that send me an email and I can discus it further there. sorry I do not normally get notified if someone replies to a comment here.
@@WoodByWright Ah yes, I did definitely notice that the frog probably wouldn't move much further forward because of the chipbreaker. I'm using it almost as a smoothing plane.
I'll definitely keep the idea of filing the adjustment gap in the chipbreaker in mind though, thanks. It would mean, that the adjustment would have more play in it before the yoke catches on the other side when spinning the adjustment wheel.
There's not a lot in it, so perhaps a little from each might be best, from the edge of the chipbreaker, depending on how thick it is, and a little bit from the notch.
And yes, the blade is irrelevant, don't know why I thought shortening it would solve the problem!
I suppose there's always the option of bending the yoke back a little bit, but I'd be a bit cautions of bending it too far for fear that it would just end up pushing up on the back of the chipbraker if it misses the hole, or wears itself on the edge of the chipbreaker hole if it doesn't catch enough of it. I have an old Dronfield plane that's in this situation; the adjustment hole in the chipbreaker has a little groove worn into it and the yoke sometimes doesn't catch it. Or maybe it's just that somebody filed it down.
The Dronfield actually has the opposite problem to the S&J, the adjustment wheel has to be almost off the bolt before the blade protrudes! Which is why I kind of use it as a scrub plane with the chipbreaker a good few millimetres back from blade to compensate.
I suppose there's always the option of trying to switch yokes between the planes, or making new ones, they look pretty straightforward.
It looks like everybody copied Stanley, but didn't always get the little things right.
Good job
Thanks.
Maybe I missed it in the video, but why are the planes painted blue? Rust protection?
The planes I restore for my personal use I paint a metallic Blue. Just like how it looks in the shop!
its a nice thought having all the plane sizes from stanley but let me know how you do on the number 1 there hard to find and crazy expensive good luck!
thanks. I see them all the time but I can not justify the $600-$900 price tag. especially sense it would just look good on the wall. but in my case i have an excuse that I can teach with it, even if it is just to say that it is pointless. LOL
thank you that really helps
My pleasure.
Enjoyed this video a lot James, it even answered some questions I haven't ask yet. What do you mean by the term "Jointer Plane?"
God Bless my friend.
+Frank Ingram thanks. A jointer plane is a long plane that can flatten boards or joint the edges for pannel glue up.
Just like Mr. James said, the electric jointer does the job of the big Stanley planes...
Jeremy Novak s
Can you mention your opinion of the best "value" brand(s)? Value can mean many things but here I'm referring to a tool that is built to last but is priced competitively, for a serious, but not pro, carpenter. (Without naming names)The forums I read seem to make it a clear black and white issue. It's either brand x or nothing...which happens to be on the highest end of the cost spectrum. Sometimes it is worth saving to buy the most expensive. I don't think so here. Also, if time permits, are there 2-3 planes you'd recommend besides the block plane to get started? Thank you in advance and appreciate all the videos I've been able to watch by WbW.
I don't like to talk about Brands much because they change drastically over the years and one-brand may have a great model at one time but 20 years later have a bad model. I tried to show what to look for in a hand plane rather than looking at a particular model. As to what plane to purchase first a number four or number five is generally the best to get going a block plane is actually one that is not used very often in a hand tool shop, but in a power tool shop it is more common.
Great video James! Any idea of what a Stanley No.2 can be used for. I am restoring one now, just because I wanted to have a full set, but apart from being shorter and lighter, do you have any thoughts on other upsides or downsides to the No. 2? Not many RUclips videos out there about this plane....
it is very useful for smoothing natural faces that have a lot of wave to them. not common and there are not a lot of uses, but they look great in the set!
I'm in the store now, thanks for the info, I'm going to get a 4 and try and do everything to make it Flat and sand after or maybe not let's see. What does Rasp plane do? Curious because I'm looking at it.
Nice! Are you talking about a file holder.
@@WoodByWright it looks like a cheese grater?
@@coparaji4616 oh those things. those are for drywall and edges of thin plywood. not really a woodworking tool.
@@WoodByWright gotcha, I ended up getting a #4 and I'm watching your Video with your wife so wish me luck! I'm going to attempt to also joint with it.
Soooooo cool. Thanks so much.
Thanks!
Dat pun in the intro ! So.. do you use the number 6 ? There's few information about it around
Some people use the number 6 all the time for me it's one of my least used planes. If I need something long I usually go with the number 7 and if I need something in the middle I usually go with the number 5.
As an Organbuilder I just COULD NOT have done my job without my No.8 ABSOLUTELY and CATEGORICALLY, if you don’t know what the purpose of this tool, then you don’t need it!!
LOL yup. I just did a video on that on the other channel.
I was listening for some ways the 4-1/2 can distinguish itself, but you skipped it again and again. I’m about to finish the parts for my cherry hutch, and I’m hoping the 4-1/2 can give me a smooth-as-glass surface. Any thoughts?
It is the same as the #4 but 1/2" wider. Some people like it for smoothing, but that all depends on how you set it up.
pls need of advise I have n 4 as scrub , 6 for jount , should I buy n 3 for smoth one ? although ir hard to find ? 😳 very confusing !
some people like to use a number 3 as a smoothing plane I like to use a number 4 personally some people like to use a 4 1/2. It all depends on personal preference.
@@WoodByWrightOh ok , thanks man 😊 love to see more videos pls.
Thanks. More to come.
I have only one plane right now I’m just starting, I have a Stanley Bailey no 4, what is the next one you suggest I should get? And wich plane should I get for a scrub plane?
That all depends on what you make. if you will be doing large jointing in the future then a #7 or #8 would be a good one. if you don't know what you are doing then I would say a #5. a scrub plane can me most any plane you make it and different people will have different ideas about what is best. I say whatever hunk of junk you find. but I like the size of a #5 for it.
can you turn the bevel up or down on any plane or do you need a specific plane that works with the bevel up and one that works with the bevel down.......thanks for any info.
the pland has to be setup for Bevel up or down. usually a bevel up plane has a bed that the iron sits on down at 12 degrees where as a bevel down. (most planes) has the bed at around 45 degrees.
@@WoodByWright thank you for the quick response.........if most planes are bevel down what is the advantage or need for a bevel up plane.....once again,thanks....am trying to learn anything i can to help my woodworking.
@@yardlimit8695 Historically, they were only used for end grain work such as flattening a large end grain butcher block, but recently the power tool user has enjoyed them as they are easier to set up, some people sware by them and it is the only plane they have. I have a whole video on it if you seach for Bevel up Vs bevel down.
@@WoodByWright thank you very much........
Okay, I'm still confused. So where does a No. 33 Bench Plane fit into all this? It obviously isn't four times larger than your No. 8 plane, as your number explanation implies. Instead, it's roughly the same size as a No. 4 Jack Plane. Should we read that number as 3.3, as 3 3/4, or something else entirely?
You're #1 brother!! ;)
+BearKat Wood lol thanks.
So you give my goofy comment a little heart 1 year after I said it. Is it some kind of anniversary things or something? ;) Miss you too James, hope to see you again maybe next year. Little heart back at you ;)lol
Hi James I have a n°6 plane I use it for everything but I want to buy a smaller plane, what do you suggest? I was thinking about a 4 1/2
If you have a 6 I would probably say a 4. There are times when a narrow plane is useful especially when you have a wide plane like a 6 already.
Would you recommend the new Stanley planes? Being new to woodworking, I'd like to get a decent number 4 to start, as opposed to a restoration. Or is there any other brand to break one into this wonderful world?
The new Stanley planes are about the cheapest I would go and still trust them. They're not the best of the market but they will serve you fairly well.
Thank you. I just need a little one or two to get started. My grandfather has some very old Stanley's, so maybe one day..!
I often come across corrugated bottom planes. Are there any advantages/disadvantages/special uses for those?
+William Shetler they were originally advertised as easer to push through the wood but that is not true. They take the same force. Some people like them, but they are not high on my list.
what types of stanleys are the ones you have and where did you buy them?
the types are all over the place I have one type 2 a couple type 12 (my favorite) and the rest are in between. I buy them all over the place. but here are two videos that show most of the places I buy tools.
The map: ruclips.net/video/iFedo5HK__I/видео.html
The MWTCA Meets: ruclips.net/video/7xRnhksUQz0/видео.html
An overview of some of the places: ruclips.net/video/63CsakoFr14/видео.html
What would you recommend between a no. 5 and no. 5 1/2 if I only had one?
the #5. it is cheaper wand will do the same work.
@@WoodByWright thank you, but what if I found one with almost the same price? It is like 1.5% more expensive. Not much
What about a 4-1/2" or a 4.5"?
I didn't updated version of the video here where I cover all of the in between numbers as well.ruclips.net/video/1QYDC72yAsg/видео.html
I think it is a plane choice.
lol yup!
Funny thing, yesterday I had some issues with using my plane to try flatten wood. The knob in the front flew of! I couldn't find one of the parts so had to work without the knob
+Workshop on Wheels wow no fun. That is why I always keep a stock of parts. Lol
Wood By Wright My father has a stock too, but I would have wasted hours to even find that, the garden shed is his terrain and there is barely space to walk in it, let alone to get some work done, so I just finished what I started, and when he came home, he went searching in his scrap pile. I hope to get some last footage of the project shot, and by tomorrow it will be online, can't leave such funny moments out of RUclips!
LOL exactly. nothing like losing small pieces in a small packed shop.
I was using it outdoors, never found the part again, put a replacement was found in one of the scrap piles. If interested, I made my first project upload and at the end I included footage of 'the accident'
Low angle? Bevel up/down? Routing, rebate/rabbiting, molding...?
LOL can't fit it all in one video. this was just covering the Stanley standard numbers. I do have videos on all of the other ones as well.
Yeah, I found some of them. Thanks.
let me know if there is anything particular you would like to know. I am putting out 3 videos a week and am always looking for new ideas.
But my question was: what the heck do i do with my imagionary box of nr 1s? And why isnt the nr9 a bigger 8? And why isnt there a nr 0?
And why are these planes so expensive here, even in deplorable condition?
Nice overview!
+Willem Kossen lol. Those are the questions that we may never know!
Which plane would you use on oak floor. I am thinking to keep a rustic, old look to just plane high spots, skip sanding since board finish is pretty good then use vinegar and iron stain to age finish, fill knots n cracks with bar coat and finish with six coats of minwax poly. Here is a vid of mine showing number 3 mixed red n white oak. I dont mind a few low boards in floor. ruclips.net/video/IyKBeKYL4PQ/видео.html
for that I normally use a shorter plane like a #4. but scraping is the traditional way to smooth a floor. here is a video of me doing it on my dining room. ruclips.net/video/MopMGkqaiPM/видео.html
What about the low angle veritas standing there?
I was just covering the first 8 of the Stanley numbers (the ones that make sense) lol here is a video on LAJP. ruclips.net/video/X65OLedIbyk/видео.html
sell all those old stanley and get some good planes from record or millars falls i am a cabinet maker in uk for 40yr plus the most sed plane for me is the record 4.1/2 some good mass also the no6 is the original fore plane as before any other plane if you ever get chance to get a german wooden plane with a horn handle get 1 you will not be dissapointed
+chris birkitt thanks. I have quite a few Miller false and records and the horned women plane is a joy to glide across the wood.
I may have fallen asleep, but did you ever mention the low angle plane that was sitting on the end the entire video?
+speg hetti no. In this one I just covered the first 8 in the stanly numbers. The LAJP is a much later plane. I do have another video showing the differences between low angle and traditional planes.
Great info, thanks. How do you like your SW low angle Jack?
+Sean Foushee I like it a lot. It is the best bang for the buck in new LAJP
100% for your very good video. But -100% for putting music with it. Its not necessary.
Thanks Phil. LOL I also have a lot of people telling me to use more music.
So what one is best for making boxes?
Depends on the box you want to make. But most small boxes you don't need anything bigger then a no4
@@WoodByWright ok thank you
I didn't see a single ✈️.
+Brian Prusa lol. It is at the other end of the bench!
A narrow blade is not a thinner blade, this may confuse novice wood workers.
Well... at least it's not a Boring video :P
OH. now I have to make a boring video!