So ,you absolutely right. I'm not doing anything wrong, as you say that I'm so happy. I have my Porsche boxster 2.7 2003 model. Hello to everyone owners.
@@piotrg690 none whatsoever last oil change inspected oil filter I cut it open clean as a whistle. Regular oil changes, and regular use I think is the key, the issue has been hyper inflated over the years, I wouldn't worry.
@@TheYjmfan Ok ,thanks for suggestions. For a moment I don't get problems, but if we change the oil more often, I think we will get rid of this problem.
@@piotrg690 yes use a good quality fully synthetic I stick with Mobil but I used Mobil 5w 40 super 3000 last oil change but Mobil 1is probably best overall, I also changed the gearbox oil to redline fully synthetic lovely smooth gear changes once warmed up. I don't care what people say about these boxsters they are superb, I used to own an older 911 but the Boxster is so much nicer to be around.
Just a good hint for you, when you were talking about fuel at the beginning and took the fuel cap off, don't hang it on the body paintwork like you did, there is a hook on the inside of the fuel cover you can hang it on to keep any residual petrol off the paintwork!
Porsche warm up (2008 Cayman owners' manual): 1. Start the car, observe a steady idle. 2. Drive off. 3. Stay below 3,000 rpm until the temp gauge comes off the peg. 4. Don't use full throttle or exceed 3,000 rpm until the temp gauge indicates normal operating temperature. My recommendation to keep the car happy and healthy: Full throttle at least once a day and hit the redline at least once a day.
Eithel Rotschild, Eithel originates from England and is such a lovely lady name that should be used more often.. Please let me explain because you are being thick and narrow minded, at 0.06 seconds the gentleman sits on the “Front Wing” or “Fender” or “フェンダー” or “Kotflügel”!!!!
Eithel Rotschild it is an argument because you insulted me! So if your not intelligent enough to work out that body panels are called different things in different countries then please go back to school...Sir Weirdo!
Best advice - drive the porsche! Have Fun. repeat daily. My 986 is my daily driver. Yes, I spend more on oil and tires but the car loves to be driven; you can actually feel it in the handling and performance.
Years ago, I use to hand wash my Porsche up to twice a week. Then I found out that every time I took my car to the shop for the last 10 years the Porsche dealer had been running it through the courtesy car wash themselves 🤣. At that point, I was like, what the hell! So, started running through the car wash myself. Although the one I use does claim to be designed for cars with ceramic coats even though mine is not, I still use the option. I've added another 2 years now. People still compliment me on how shiny it looks. Eventually, I will need to restore the paint to its 2010 luster but its 2023 now and I have zero complaints. So, I say, to each, his own.
The last tip is the most important hand down. The worst thing for a car is to sit and not be driven. I just purchased my first porsche and I daily drive it. Such a great car. No problems whatsoever and I drive it everywhere. My last car was a 700hp corvette that I daily drove for 4 years. (Nitrous powered) Had 156k miles with tons of racing time and not 1 problem. While other friends I had with very low mileage corvettes with way less power had things breaking all the time. Don't let the cars sit! Especially the cars with IMS problems. Drive the car regularly and you are less likely to have a malfunction. Everything stays lubricated and in working condition. Great vid 👍
I can partly blame the manufacturers for encouraging this behavior by releasing limited runs of a certain model or trim level. How many 991 911 GT3 RS's are you going to ever see on the road, and even for that matter, other mfrs are not immune to this (I have yet to see a Mercedes SL65 AMG Black Series of any vintage anywhere on the road). They're like $200000 unopened Star Wars figurines - what's the point?
use the octane fuel recommended by the manufacturer. higher octane fuel can damage fuel lines and seals over time if not carful. I learnt this myself and was told the ecu is mapped to use certain fuels and can confuse it.
Regarding engine warming: don't lug the engine. It's ok to rev 3,000 or so between shifts and likely less troubling for your engine if you do. Just don't push the car hard in terms of cylinder pressure or revs until the oil temperature is up to normal.
I recently bought a 2002 911 C4 cabrio. It's a 17 year old car with 17 year old car problems. Main issue, just over 50000 miles, which means it was a garage queen for the majority of its life. I got a good deal on it and always wanted a 911, so I took the plunge. Having driven a Prius C for the last 8 years, going into this near base-model Porsche has been incredible, but it's got a lot of needs to bring it to the spec I'd like to have. I'm daily driving the hell outta it and I love it regardless! It's just a fun, quick sports car, and with care and maintenance, can last a REALLY long time, just like any other high-performance car. Great vid bro!
Yes and no. Some of the issues with poor quality fuel, can be significantly amplified in conjunction with low octane fuel. If your fuel is of a poor quality and you purchase from a station which for instance don't get their holding tanks filled very often due to low sales, or overly large tanks, you run a greater risk of getting fuel that has gone stale with an even lower octane than advertised. You're better off if your US Midwest 93AKI fuel drops to 91, than if your Cali dogwater drops from 90AKI to 87 or 86AKI. Of course impurities and Sulphur in the fuel can cause issues as well, but that's more an issue in Oceania and in some 3rd. world places including Russia.
we have a daily driver and long distance warrior Macan S... it's -40 c here this week and it works great in the icy cold and snowy weather (I digress). burn regular fuel (Octane 87) here in Canada and the car runs flawlessly even when pushed. I suppose if it was track day it would make a diff.
Hi Al, another great video. I have a boxster 987.2, through a bit of research I have found that cleaning debris from the front coolers, under the front bumper lights is essential to avoid rusting and replacement. Likewise if you get the roof to a 30/40 degree angle, you can unblock and keep clean the the drains for the soft top. This can avoid internal flooding , and a lot of work. This is very common on boxsters in the Uk, lots of leaves etc blowing about. Your right I drive my car at least weekly. The power just for the central locking and take you in lights, actually causes the power system to partially shut down after 7 days if not driven. Some will notice they have to open the car with the key, not the remote after 7 days. This is to stop battery drain. I would rather drive then use a boring charger.
@Josh Bassett..what some people don't understand is that it's not just about warming up the oil but also the internal components of different alloy. They expend at different rate.
Very valid points. A Porsche is made for the road, not for the garage. In 2004 I purchased a new 996 4s Convertible and it still looks new. I don't mind putting it to our local car wash after I did a nano coating - something I would recommend to every Porsche owner.
Hi Satch. Totally agree with all of your points. Another one that you could add to the list is the fact that some Porsche drivers when refuelling let their Fuel Caps hang down the side of the car rather than hanging them around the little hook on the inside of the filler flap lol Naughty lol. Mick👍🍻 P.S just seen that John S noticed this as well lol
I'm anal retentive. When I watch a guy saying he loves his car and see that dirty inside gas cap it makes me mad. He could wash it with soap/water in 30 seconds, dry it and wax it once and a while.
I had a project at Porsche Stuttgart for 12 month several years ago and used their company cars, we were adviced to only buy super with octane 95. Basically that's fine enough for every day usage as long you dont go full RPM.
Octane rating is not a rating of gasoline quality. Use the Octane rating recommended by Porsche. Using a higher grade than recommended is not better for most drivers.
good tips, don't agree upon the 2.000 rpm until warm. Under 2.000 rpm you're nearly lugging the engine which is not good either. You can drive it normally at 3K-3.5k rpm until warm and nothing will happen at all... I don't floor it until the Oil is at its operating temperature. It takes longer for the oil to warm up than for the water to do so... there are gauges for both
I really don't care all that much about carwash swirls. I mean, it's a car and it's primarily meant to be driven, the time it takes to hand wash a car would make me hesitant to drive it in anything other than perfect weather. The biggest problem with a carwash is if your car is no longer water tight or your drains are clogged. Drains are probably the very first thing I clean and check on any used car I get. And continue to check every few months. And I agree, invest in a good marque specific diagnostic tool, it basically pays for itself within a year or two.
To be fair Satch most of your points regarding ownership of a Porsche can be applied to any high spec’ car. Whether you’re a daily driver or a weekend driver look after it & it will repay you. Treat it badly and it will bite you on the arse. At the end of the day it’s just common sense ....... isn’t it ?
I put 93 octane on my car as it's the highest we have here in the US for the public. I agree with all 7 mistakes and I practice not to do every single one of them. These are great advices and every Porsche owners should follow.
The three bucket method is worth considering. 1 bucket for ‘soap’, 1 bucket for rinse, and 1 bucket for wheels.... will help to protect your paintwork.... 😀😀😀
paul l If you are tired of your Porsche it’s time for you to upgrade up from your 996 or 997 to something newer. I could never go back to my old Ferrari 328. Times change, moods change, bank accounts change.
Which of these mistakes have I made? I'll number them as I watch IF I've done any........ #5: I DID do this when I first got it but then I read the manual and changed my routine instantly. RTFM. #3: No I dont have one but I'm yet to see a fault on my 987. I'd be more inclined to get one for my Nissan than my Porsche as I wont be the one fixing the porsche ;) #2: Again when I first got it, even though I knew this, I sometimes didn't drive it for a month. It's now driven once a week so I think this is fine. #1: Yep agreed. Again when I FIRST got it, I gave it the "Ferrari life" but not for too long. See #2. Fixed :D Great video.
APPROVED! Dont agree with the "warm up procedure" my regimen is to stay below 4000 rpms. Until your OIL temperature have reached 90 degress or 200 F then you can red Line and enjoy the performance
So the full story on US vs UK octane... My "US" Cayman DOES say RON not AKI... BUT ... Not only RON. It actually says "(RON + MON) /2" Here's an explanation from a related Rennlist post : RON Research Octane Number. (Used in Europe and elswhere in gas stations) MON Motor Octane Number. AKI Anti-Knock Index. This is the number that is posted on the gas station in the USA as "Octane". It is derived as (RON + MON)/2
Thanks for the info. A lot of it seems obvious but then again I know people that buy these cars and do nothing but dive them. I've seen tires that we're basically bald, brakes that needed replaced, paint that was so dirty you had trouble telling the color and many other things. Really a crime. If you're not going to take care of it, maybe you shouldn't buy it. Thanks again!
Great video, As an owner of a performance vehicle from another German manufacturer🤫 (Don’t hate me😂) I would just like to say these tips are useful for all of us 😀 Thank you
I think the biggest mistake is not learning to do your own basics maintenance. I learned a lot of respect for my car when I started changing plugs and coil packs at 40,000 miles and thats after they were changed at 18,000 originally. I am having to remove damn near half of the engine. Rear wheels, bumper cover, exhaust, turbos... Doing this right helped me to understand the engineering behind this car and understanding what to look for in wear and tear. The engineering is brilliant but requires patience and precision in execution. I have discovered every lazy stupid thing that every mechanic (dealer and non dealer) had done to my car. I have ordered at least a dozen parts that they left off or rigged on my $215,000 car while in warranty. If this car takes a winter break then you should get to know your car and do some work on it. You not only learn to appreciate excellent engineering but you also learn to determine it's limitations. I doubt I'll ever track this car again after realizing I have to rebuild a turbo because of seal leaks. It taught me some respect! On the other hand the maintenance has been cheaper thus far than my Tacoma. I am convinced that this is because its by far better engineered. I've had this car for 9 years (2011 turbo s) and its been an average including tires $2000/year. Tacoma $4000 per year. Seriously here, once your car is out of warranty buy some quick jacks and start doing the basics. You will find that it is actually a pleasure working on it and when you do have to take it to a mechanic you'll understand their labor times and rates much better.
I have a 986 and a 996. I drive them on alternate days to work from home, which is 50 mile round trip. If I drive them on alternate days it stops them from sulking and getting jealous of each other. A huge mistake is to have a favourite.
Agree with all, but I would add rev the engine, don't upshift early, take it to 3,500 min. And driving position is really important. Play with it and you'll find that your Porsche will fit you like a glove....
I'm relatively new to the Porsche world. I own a 987.1 basic Cayman for around two months and trying to understand better this outstanding mechanism. Warming and the lubricating engine are always a topic. My approach is: start the engine, wait until revs go down a little, and drive softly. Every sane person does this this way. But this "drive softly" part is not that simple. My math is to drive on the bottom of the torque range or slightly below, not like twice less. So when I had a diesel, BMW softly was something around 1400, when I had a 2.0t Audi, softly was 2200. And for the Porsche m96.25 (that is the equipment of my car), the torque range is 260 Nm at 4700 rpm, which is very high compared to Audi 2.0t. These engines are famous for not being lubricated properly on lower revs. So, does it still make sense to keep the revs on 2000 even on the cold engine?
That little hook on the side of the fuel door is for the fuel cap to hang off by its security line. So it doesn't hang on the body work, but further off the side. Older air cooled Porsche do need to warm up. Just till the the warm up regulator drops your RPM down and the engine settles. Newer Porsches do not need the same warm up time as the old ones. I own 2 air cooled 911 and a '10 Cayenne. I have been informed by old motor meister on my old cars.
Where I live, I strictly use NON ETHANOL high octane everytime. Unfortunately I can only drive my Boxster during spring and summer, so I plug the battery into a battery tender and place fuel additive on a full tank during the winter.
Fuel - put best in you can find, if not don't worry, a tank a lower octane will be fine, ecu adjusts. Car Washing - find a decent car wash and you'll be fine, always taken my porsche to the local guys who do a fantastic job, a clay bar and polish once a year will ensure showroom condition! Warm up - agree don't sit around, best way to warm up an engine is to start driving, 2000 revs? As long as you don't redline it as you set of you'll be fine. Battery charging, agreed. But check. Some porsche's come with a lithium ion battery which doesn't take well to trickle charging. And yeah, don't sit on your car! 🤦♂️
For number 5 warming up the car, lubrication is done by the engine and pressure is somehow proportional to RPM. But when cold not all the different metals are at the right operating temperatures (dimensions), so revving at high RPM and specially lugging at low RPM is bad. Not even a minute is required for the oil to be able to be pumped properly but the metal has not expanded yet. The transmission also needs it's warming up and lubrication before loading, and this is not done parked. This morning at -21C not even 1 min driving off easy is plenty.
Scan tools will indicate which sensor is being affected...you then must look to see what is causing the sensor to give that reading. Thank you for the video.
I’ve been away from my Boxster since Covid struck. I can vouch for not letting your vehicle stand idle and I put my trust in JMH Cheshire. Great people and they look after my car when I cannot. When I finally get back behind the wheel it will be amazing - all over again!
Great stuff Steve. It's good to be prepared, right now I'm in the middle of changing the rear brakes on my 997, really simple job and a great way to learn about the car. Thanks for watching.
A code reader is NOT going to tell you what's wrong with the car. It gives you a DTC. Diagnostic Trouble Code. This is a starting point. If you get, for example, a DTC of P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire. All that tells you is that there is a misfire at cylinder 3. But the source of the misfire could be an injector. A spark plug. A coil. Low compression. Carbon build up. Faulty wiring to the injectors. Faulty wiring to the coils. A faulty Engine Computer. And the list goes on. Sure, it can be practical to carry a code reader in order to minimize the chances of being scammed by a potential repair facility. But just know that not all code readers are created equal. And some will miss DTC'S that are present. Some will only read current DTC'S. Meanwhile your engine computer may have stored DTC'S that may be pertinent to the data needed to diagnose a particular problem. Whether it's electrical, mechanical or driveability. Also just to clarify. A code reader is what he's saying will tell you what's wrong with the car. Wrong. A SCANTOOL will give you access to live data. And an experienced Technician will interpret that data along with applying test procedures to diagnose what is wrong with the car. Code readers do NOT diagnose. They read. Codes. That's it. Even if you had a scantool. You wouldn't know what you're looking at.
What do you mean by up to temperature? Showing that the water is up to temperature, doesn't mean that the engine and the oil is, especially if you are using a thick oil
I agree..specifically the last point...people leave thier caymans in garages like it's a super car...enjoy it ! U didn't buy it to sell ! And it's fun to daily drive as well...that's why mine just hit 110km in just 5 years..and i don't regret it at all.
Holy crap, this well-informative upload is so underrated! It says 3 years ago but only had 426k views, 4.6 likes, & 637 comments. Liked and subscribed!
It is tempting to let it sit in the garage. I try to use mine about 2x a week or at least 1x a week. Agreed. Use the car. Get some fun out of it b4 it gets old!
I don't have garage queens I believe you should drive them as often as you can. Because the loss of value is the cost of all the enjoyment those drives brought too you. My 2 anyways. I put 30k miles on three Ferrari's over 4 years and pick up my new gt3 porshe this week I'll put 5-6k miles
That's me snookered regarding number 1. I've done 208 miles this year in my 2005 911 Carrera S which is 8 miles over my 200 miles P.A. limit. Laid up now until 2022.
Every used 911 on the market has multiple owners and cars are still going for top dollar. I came across a 2011 911 Turbo at $75k with only 27k mile but it had 7 previous owners! Who knows what they did to that car. Maybe 1 day I’ll own one but it’s hard to overcome the unknown on a used 911
Also need to raise your powered spoiler on the Cayman when washing to remove dirt that's pretty Cayman-specific though. But it's one often not thought about
Number 1 rule, that's the way, I'm not a rich man by any means, just a hard worker, but I really love cars, I have some knowledge in mechanics and I like it, so I'm looking for get a Boxster or Cayman in the not too far away future for like 20k € max, and keep on running my E46 compact diesel as daily driver, or whatever cheap used diesel car I get at that time, but most of all if I buy a car it's for driving it a lot. Great videos.
Add these please - Cars have seats which can be used for sitting, fenders are there for looks, rain, safety etc - well designed cars have fuelcap holders, no need to let them hang on their rubbers
So the BP Station near my home has a great touch free wash that has serviced all my vehicles for the past decade with no slap and scratch. Are there no touch free options accross the pond?
As a biker obviously we don't use car washes, but guys never use a chamois leather it's like a fine sand paper I use a leaf blower it removes water and in those little nooks and crannies. Then a good quality polish, don't go for a drive before polishing to dry off.
I must admit I’m guilty of some of those.. especially not driving it enough. Someone else mentioned about the state of the inside of your filler cap which is and looks shite, but why do you let the cap dangle and scratch the car, place it in the holder. Good vid though👍
sitting on your car is a mistake you are making - taking almost 6 seconds to shift gears is another.......let alone shifting in the middle of a corner............ ; P
Well for starters, at 2:57 I would never let the gas cap after removing it dangle on the painted surface of the car. On my 911 GTS, the gas cap rests on the pin inside the gas cap lid.
Octane is the burn measurement, 91 would burn longer then 88 and the 88 will burn quicker. Its why you see flames shooting out of exhausts in drag racing cars. The high octain burns the whole stroke of the piston.
New owner, didn’t know that about the warm-up, thank you! I did know about the fuel cap hanger, though 😉 sorry, couldn’t resist. Thanks for another helpful video!
1. Use factory recommended octane fuel 2. No cheap carwashes 3. Wait until engine idles at 900 RPM before shifting into gear, keep RPMs at 2k until engine is warm 4. Maintain factory service intervals 5. Buy/use OBD code reader 6. Run engine (drive car) at least once a week to cycle battery, use trickle charger when not possible 7. "Shrink wrap" mentality to "retain the car's value" Unless you are the owner of a limited/rare model (918, Carrera GT, GT3 RS, etc.) time will depreciate the value of your Porsche faster than mileage; it's not a collector's item. So enjoy your car.
First mistake I saw you make was sitting on your Porsche with non-microfiber pants! You sure enjoyed your Cayman on a pretty straight road! I don't even drive mine unless I'm headed towards the twisty mountain roads
@@TheYjmfan I would suggest the oil temperature is still way too cold to safely rev the engine hard until quite a long time after the water gets up to normal temperature. From what I remember an oil temperature gauge isn't provided on the Boxster?
Imagine if the owner of the Yoshida Specials 930 (Blackbird) had listened to this guy. That car was run at 200MPH+ (on the fucking street) for almost 20 years straight and it's still around "oh no, can't do a Wangan run tonight, my undercarriage was wiped down with the same brush we used on that GT-R, my 2 million dollars of modifications are now null and void!" BTW, clearing codes doesn't solve the problem. The codes are there for a reason. You literally just told people to turn their warning lights off and ignore their problem.
phew! I am so glad I didn't make this list! I bought the scan tool on your recommendation. I don't have that charging kit but charge my battery once a week at least.
About #5, my air cooled 87 911 Owners Manual specifically stated NOT to start it cold and let it warm up at idle! It actually said to start and drive immediately.
I don't own a Porsche 911. I do own a 2014 VW GLI with 200K on it. It rides like new like butter, and I'll share how: 1. Buy Pro version OBDeleven diagnostic scanner good for all VAG brands. Helps me identify issues, save money by not going to the dealer and tweak my car for free. 2. Always use Liqui Moly engine and transmission oils. My car came stock with Castrol Synthetic. It burned a lot of oil. After using LQ, my car burns 1 qrt every 5K miles with my high mileage. And I RELIGIOUSLY change my oil every 5K miles. I use Molytec, the green stuff, so can locate an oil leak in the first 1500 miles. 3. Get a stage 1 tune. Most reputable tune companies work with Porsche/Audi/VW. Here in LA the companies are APR and Unitronic. Unitronic seems to get the better bang for buck. $900 got me an ECU tune adding 50 hp and 100 tq and the TCU makes my dsg shift way smoother. 4. Aftermarket upgrades- for all VAG vehicles I have been very happy with 034 Motorsports products. I use an aluminum dogbone mount, solid rubber (not poly) engine/trans mounts and beefier rear swaybar.
i love the color on your car is it a 06’? i am in the market for a 06 cayman or boxster s which one do you think is better i am recently a camaro rs 13 owner
Fuel wise, you use the fuel rating that the car manual tells you to use.. 98 if it has to, but anything over that has zero relevance on stock tune. But more importantly, use QUALITY fuel. Don't know about UK, but in Belgium i only use Shell Vpower 98 because it is the only Fuel supplier that tells me they do not put Bioethanol in that fuel. The Non Bioethanol is important because it is not corrosive, and does not attract water, which means your engine runs better after a stand still (not that mine stands still often)... and the Vpower stuff is also good for the injectors.. and in turn all good for the catalysators.. 167000 km and all stock all well everything works no issues.. I'm sticking to it.
So ,you absolutely right. I'm not doing anything wrong, as you say that I'm so happy. I have my Porsche boxster 2.7 2003 model.
Hello to everyone owners.
Congrats I have same model.
@@TheYjmfan That is it my first Porsche. Do you have any problems with IMS bering?
@@piotrg690 none whatsoever last oil change inspected oil filter I cut it open clean as a whistle. Regular oil changes, and regular use I think is the key, the issue has been hyper inflated over the years, I wouldn't worry.
@@TheYjmfan Ok ,thanks for suggestions. For a moment I don't get problems, but if we change the oil more often, I think we will get rid of this problem.
@@piotrg690 yes use a good quality fully synthetic I stick with Mobil but I used Mobil 5w 40 super 3000 last oil change but Mobil 1is probably best overall, I also changed the gearbox oil to redline fully synthetic lovely smooth gear changes once warmed up. I don't care what people say about these boxsters they are superb, I used to own an older 911 but the Boxster is so much nicer to be around.
The whole video got disqualified as soon as he sat on the fender
that’s mistake #9
@@AndieBlack13 😂
And when he let the filler cap hang on his paint
Yawn.
Yeah I thought he was making a joke of what not to do ! Haha
Just a good hint for you, when you were talking about fuel at the beginning and took the fuel cap off, don't hang it on the body paintwork like you did, there is a hook on the inside of the fuel cover you can hang it on to keep any residual petrol off the paintwork!
100% - was hard to watch :)
Porsche warm up (2008 Cayman owners' manual):
1. Start the car, observe a steady idle.
2. Drive off.
3. Stay below 3,000 rpm until the temp gauge comes off the peg.
4. Don't use full throttle or exceed 3,000 rpm until the temp gauge indicates normal operating temperature.
My recommendation to keep the car happy and healthy: Full throttle at least once a day and hit the redline at least once a day.
0:13 - says "starts right now".
2:27 - video content starts.
#7 2:27
#6 4:14
#5 5:50
#4 7:14
#3 9:17
#2 10:40
#1 11:58
First mistake is sitting on the front wing...🤦🏻♂️
Eithel Rotschild, you have an English name and you are replying to me in English!! At least learn and try to understand the language.
Eithel Rotschild, Eithel originates from England and is such a lovely lady name that should be used more often..
Please let me explain because you are being thick and narrow minded, at 0.06 seconds the gentleman sits on the “Front Wing” or “Fender” or “フェンダー” or “Kotflügel”!!!!
@Eithel Rotschild In the US it's called a fender. You guys can call it anything you like.
Eithel Rotschild it is an argument because you insulted me! So if your not intelligent enough to work out that body panels are called different things in different countries then please go back to school...Sir Weirdo!
That's how some fat cow dented my GT4 fender (ok, she wasn't fat, but don't sit on the f$%cking front wings).
Best advice - drive the porsche! Have Fun. repeat daily. My 986 is my daily driver. Yes, I spend more on oil and tires but the car loves to be driven; you can actually feel it in the handling and performance.
Glad to see you mentioning the car washes, so many people just don’t understand how much damage they really do.
In my neck of the woods we mainly have brushless car washes. As for the girls, well, you know, dont you and boys will be boys no matter what... 🤗
Years ago, I use to hand wash my Porsche up to twice a week. Then I found out that every time I took my car to the shop for the last 10 years the Porsche dealer had been running it through the courtesy car wash themselves 🤣. At that point, I was like, what the hell! So, started running through the car wash myself. Although the one I use does claim to be designed for cars with ceramic coats even though mine is not, I still use the option. I've added another 2 years now. People still compliment me on how shiny it looks. Eventually, I will need to restore the paint to its 2010 luster but its 2023 now and I have zero complaints. So, I say, to each, his own.
I drive mine daily and love it. It will break my heart to watch it sit in a garage staring back at me begging me to drive it.
Good job you're not me. I limit my mileage to 200 miles per year.
No garage queen with me!!!
The last tip is the most important hand down. The worst thing for a car is to sit and not be driven. I just purchased my first porsche and I daily drive it. Such a great car. No problems whatsoever and I drive it everywhere. My last car was a 700hp corvette that I daily drove for 4 years. (Nitrous powered) Had 156k miles with tons of racing time and not 1 problem. While other friends I had with very low mileage corvettes with way less power had things breaking all the time. Don't let the cars sit! Especially the cars with IMS problems. Drive the car regularly and you are less likely to have a malfunction. Everything stays lubricated and in working condition. Great vid 👍
I can partly blame the manufacturers for encouraging this behavior by releasing limited runs of a certain model or trim level. How many 991 911 GT3 RS's are you going to ever see on the road, and even for that matter, other mfrs are not immune to this (I have yet to see a Mercedes SL65 AMG Black Series of any vintage anywhere on the road). They're like $200000 unopened Star Wars figurines - what's the point?
use the octane fuel recommended by the manufacturer. higher octane fuel can damage fuel lines and seals over time if not carful. I learnt this myself and was told the ecu is mapped to use certain fuels and can confuse it.
Regarding engine warming: don't lug the engine. It's ok to rev 3,000 or so between shifts and likely less troubling for your engine if you do. Just don't push the car hard in terms of cylinder pressure or revs until the oil temperature is up to normal.
I recently bought a 2002 911 C4 cabrio. It's a 17 year old car with 17 year old car problems. Main issue, just over 50000 miles, which means it was a garage queen for the majority of its life. I got a good deal on it and always wanted a 911, so I took the plunge. Having driven a Prius C for the last 8 years, going into this near base-model Porsche has been incredible, but it's got a lot of needs to bring it to the spec I'd like to have. I'm daily driving the hell outta it and I love it regardless! It's just a fun, quick sports car, and with care and maintenance, can last a REALLY long time, just like any other high-performance car. Great vid bro!
Octane has zero bearing with the quality of fuel.
Yes and no. Some of the issues with poor quality fuel, can be significantly amplified in conjunction with low octane fuel.
If your fuel is of a poor quality and you purchase from a station which for instance don't get their holding tanks filled very often due to low sales, or overly large tanks, you run a greater risk of getting fuel that has gone stale with an even lower octane than advertised. You're better off if your US Midwest 93AKI fuel drops to 91, than if your Cali dogwater drops from 90AKI to 87 or 86AKI.
Of course impurities and Sulphur in the fuel can cause issues as well, but that's more an issue in Oceania and in some 3rd. world places including Russia.
we have a daily driver and long distance warrior Macan S... it's -40 c here this week and it works great in the icy cold and snowy weather (I digress). burn regular fuel (Octane 87) here in Canada and the car runs flawlessly even when pushed. I suppose if it was track day it would make a diff.
Hi Al, another great video. I have a boxster 987.2, through a bit of research I have found that cleaning debris from the front coolers, under the front bumper lights is essential to avoid rusting and replacement. Likewise if you get the roof to a 30/40 degree angle, you can unblock and keep clean the the drains for the soft top. This can avoid internal flooding , and a lot of work. This is very common on boxsters in the Uk, lots of leaves etc blowing about. Your right I drive my car at least weekly. The power just for the central locking and take you in lights, actually causes the power system to partially shut down after 7 days if not driven. Some will notice they have to open the car with the key, not the remote after 7 days. This is to stop battery drain. I would rather drive then use a boring charger.
Don't drive hard until the engine oil is fully warmed up.
This applies to old carbureted engines and pre-synthetic oil non modern engines.
@@veliksami yes. This man is saying nothing that pertains to modern Porsche
@Josh Bassett..what some people don't understand is that it's not just about warming up the oil but also the internal components of different alloy. They expend at different rate.
Very valid points. A Porsche is made for the road, not for the garage. In 2004 I purchased a new 996 4s Convertible and it still looks new. I don't mind putting it to our local car wash after I did a nano coating - something I would recommend to every Porsche owner.
Hi Satch. Totally agree with all of your points. Another one that you could add to the list is the fact that some Porsche drivers when refuelling let their Fuel Caps hang down the side of the car rather than hanging them around the little hook on the inside of the filler flap lol Naughty lol. Mick👍🍻 P.S just seen that John S noticed this as well lol
Haha - yeah slap on the wrist for me and won't do it again boss :-)
@@alsatch_ 🤣🤣👍🍻
Good advice but why dont you clean inside of your petrol filler flap.
Henry Gammon after the roasting I’m getting for it on here I’m going to start cleaning it 🤣
yep i noticed that aswell
I'm anal retentive. When I watch a guy saying he loves his car and see that dirty inside gas cap it makes me mad. He could wash it with soap/water in 30 seconds, dry it and wax it once and a while.
I had a project at Porsche Stuttgart for 12 month several years ago and used their company cars, we were adviced to only buy super with octane 95. Basically that's fine enough for every day usage as long you dont go full RPM.
Octane rating is not a rating of gasoline quality.
Use the Octane rating recommended by Porsche. Using a higher grade than recommended is not better for most drivers.
good tips, don't agree upon the 2.000 rpm until warm. Under 2.000 rpm you're nearly lugging the engine which is not good either. You can drive it normally at 3K-3.5k rpm until warm and nothing will happen at all... I don't floor it until the Oil is at its operating temperature. It takes longer for the oil to warm up than for the water to do so... there are gauges for both
Amazing to see how long the oil temperature lags the rise in water temperature
Those ladies aren’t at my local car wash 😀.
Bunch of resentful polish guys on min wage don't go there.
Your going to the wrong car wash
First mistake: Sitting on the car.
I tried Williams waterless wash for the first time today with very impressive results. It’s faster, less messy and less hassle.
You cant be serious......key to getting dirt off your car....water!
I really don't care all that much about carwash swirls. I mean, it's a car and it's primarily meant to be driven, the time it takes to hand wash a car would make me hesitant to drive it in anything other than perfect weather. The biggest problem with a carwash is if your car is no longer water tight or your drains are clogged. Drains are probably the very first thing I clean and check on any used car I get. And continue to check every few months. And I agree, invest in a good marque specific diagnostic tool, it basically pays for itself within a year or two.
Previous 911 997 C2S gen 2 owner and now loving the Panamera. Like the look of that Cayman with those wheels!
Starts at 2.26 and best watched at 1.25 speed.
To be fair Satch most of your points regarding ownership of a Porsche can be applied to any high spec’ car. Whether you’re a daily driver or a weekend driver look after it & it will repay you. Treat it badly and it will bite you on the arse. At the end of the day it’s just common sense ....... isn’t it ?
Yes, it is.
I put 93 octane on my car as it's the highest we have here in the US for the public. I agree with all 7 mistakes and I practice not to do every single one of them. These are great advices and every Porsche owners should follow.
You're mistaking RON for AKI. Your 93 AKI is the equivalent to 98 RON. What does your gas cap sticker call for?
The correct advice is “…no less octane than printed on the filler door/owners manual.”
98 RON = 94 octane for US drivers. I know people were confused with that.
The three bucket method is worth considering. 1 bucket for ‘soap’, 1 bucket for rinse, and 1 bucket for wheels.... will help to protect your paintwork.... 😀😀😀
Yorkiepoocharlie very interesting, thanks....
The BIGGEST mistake people make is never owning a Porsche!
Best comment i totally agree :) porsche s are awesome
Soo True! 🤦🏽♂️
True
I am tired of owning Porsches since 1989. I prefer my 2 Audis much more than my 2 p cars.
paul l If you are tired of your Porsche it’s time for you to upgrade up from your 996 or 997 to something newer. I could never go back to my old Ferrari 328.
Times change, moods change, bank accounts change.
Owner error don’t let the cap drop onto you4bodywork 😂😂
Indeed - there is a place to hang it, which apparently is "the missing mistake number 8". That was a test - you passed ;)
Przemek Raniczkowski 😂👍
Which of these mistakes have I made? I'll number them as I watch IF I've done any........
#5: I DID do this when I first got it but then I read the manual and changed my routine instantly. RTFM.
#3: No I dont have one but I'm yet to see a fault on my 987. I'd be more inclined to get one for my Nissan than my Porsche as I wont be the one fixing the porsche ;)
#2: Again when I first got it, even though I knew this, I sometimes didn't drive it for a month. It's now driven once a week so I think this is fine.
#1: Yep agreed. Again when I FIRST got it, I gave it the "Ferrari life" but not for too long. See #2. Fixed :D
Great video.
@@shelloiluk don't think that was meant for me. Not my video ;)
Like your video. I am in Canada and have a 1998 Boxster that I have fully customized. I drive it almost daily. I see the same types of owners here.
More in love with the sound of his own voice than an MP running for office. 13 mins of hot air and purple prose for 2 mins of basic advice.
Yes. So wasteful. Just list out the seven
Also his car is filthy
APPROVED! Dont agree with the "warm up procedure" my regimen is to stay below 4000 rpms. Until your OIL temperature have reached 90 degress or 200 F then you can red Line and enjoy the performance
That's fair enough, I think there are a few variations. Thanks for watching.
I'd say both options are exaggerated. 2000 RPM is slightly too low and 4000 way too high. Actually, 2500 seems like the sweet spot.
I agree wholeheartedly with #1 (or is it #8). I have a 177K and counting in my 93 993 Turbo.
So the full story on US vs UK octane... My "US" Cayman DOES say RON not AKI... BUT ... Not only RON. It actually says "(RON + MON) /2"
Here's an explanation from a related Rennlist post :
RON Research Octane Number. (Used in Europe and elswhere in gas stations)
MON Motor Octane Number.
AKI Anti-Knock Index. This is the number that is posted on the gas station in the USA as "Octane". It is derived as (RON + MON)/2
Thanks for the info. A lot of it seems obvious but then again I know people that buy these cars and do nothing but dive them. I've seen tires that we're basically bald, brakes that needed replaced, paint that was so dirty you had trouble telling the color and many other things. Really a crime. If you're not going to take care of it, maybe you shouldn't buy it. Thanks again!
Are you doing your 2 bucket safe wash before or after you sit on the car? 😬🤔
I normally wear microfibre trousers which allows me to sit on the cars but i forgot to put them on this video thanks for watching :-)
That actually made me laugh.
Great video,
As an owner of a performance vehicle from another German manufacturer🤫 (Don’t hate me😂)
I would just like to say these tips are useful for all of us 😀 Thank you
Only took 2.5 minutes ti finally get tot the first "mistake". Stop wasting time this is 2019.
Im still waiting ... Lol
I think the biggest mistake is not learning to do your own basics maintenance. I learned a lot of respect for my car when I started changing plugs and coil packs at 40,000 miles and thats after they were changed at 18,000 originally. I am having to remove damn near half of the engine. Rear wheels, bumper cover, exhaust, turbos... Doing this right helped me to understand the engineering behind this car and understanding what to look for in wear and tear. The engineering is brilliant but requires patience and precision in execution. I have discovered every lazy stupid thing that every mechanic (dealer and non dealer) had done to my car. I have ordered at least a dozen parts that they left off or rigged on my $215,000 car while in warranty. If this car takes a winter break then you should get to know your car and do some work on it. You not only learn to appreciate excellent engineering but you also learn to determine it's limitations. I doubt I'll ever track this car again after realizing I have to rebuild a turbo because of seal leaks. It taught me some respect! On the other hand the maintenance has been cheaper thus far than my Tacoma. I am convinced that this is because its by far better engineered. I've had this car for 9 years (2011 turbo s) and its been an average including tires $2000/year. Tacoma $4000 per year. Seriously here, once your car is out of warranty buy some quick jacks and start doing the basics. You will find that it is actually a pleasure working on it and when you do have to take it to a mechanic you'll understand their labor times and rates much better.
I have a 986 and a 996. I drive them on alternate days to work from home, which is 50 mile round trip. If I drive them on alternate days it stops them from sulking and getting jealous of each other. A huge mistake is to have a favourite.
Video could be half as long with same content
8 Bullet points would have been better
Agree with all, but I would add rev the engine, don't upshift early, take it to 3,500 min. And driving position is really important. Play with it and you'll find that your Porsche will fit you like a glove....
I'm relatively new to the Porsche world. I own a 987.1 basic Cayman for around two months and trying to understand better this outstanding mechanism. Warming and the lubricating engine are always a topic. My approach is: start the engine, wait until revs go down a little, and drive softly. Every sane person does this this way. But this "drive softly" part is not that simple. My math is to drive on the bottom of the torque range or slightly below, not like twice less. So when I had a diesel, BMW softly was something around 1400, when I had a 2.0t Audi, softly was 2200. And for the Porsche m96.25 (that is the equipment of my car), the torque range is 260 Nm at 4700 rpm, which is very high compared to Audi 2.0t. These engines are famous for not being lubricated properly on lower revs. So, does it still make sense to keep the revs on 2000 even on the cold engine?
That little hook on the side of the fuel door is for the fuel cap to hang off by its security line. So it doesn't hang on the body work, but further off the side.
Older air cooled Porsche do need to warm up. Just till the the warm up regulator drops your RPM down and the engine settles. Newer Porsches do not need the same warm up time as the old ones.
I own 2 air cooled 911 and a '10 Cayenne. I have been informed by old motor meister on my old cars.
You noticed that too about the fuel cap.
Where I live, I strictly use NON ETHANOL high octane everytime. Unfortunately I can only drive my Boxster during spring and summer, so I plug the battery into a battery tender and place fuel additive on a full tank during the winter.
I agree with point number 5 thanks for pointing this out...the manual says in bold lettering DO NOT IDLE THE CAR be ready to drive immediately
The advice applies to all performance cars. I have an F10 M5 and like all cars I’ve owned I’ve lavished care and attention on them.
Fuel - put best in you can find, if not don't worry, a tank a lower octane will be fine, ecu adjusts.
Car Washing - find a decent car wash and you'll be fine, always taken my porsche to the local guys who do a fantastic job, a clay bar and polish once a year will ensure showroom condition!
Warm up - agree don't sit around, best way to warm up an engine is to start driving, 2000 revs? As long as you don't redline it as you set of you'll be fine.
Battery charging, agreed. But check. Some porsche's come with a lithium ion battery which doesn't take well to trickle charging.
And yeah, don't sit on your car! 🤦♂️
Very Clarifying for my first 911--> Im going to pick it up to the dealer today!!! (9111 997.2--> my very very favorite!)
Your comments are absolutely correct and Applies to any car , if you care for four car
For number 5 warming up the car, lubrication is done by the engine and pressure is somehow proportional to RPM. But when cold not all the different metals are at the right operating temperatures (dimensions), so revving at high RPM and specially lugging at low RPM is bad. Not even a minute is required for the oil to be able to be pumped properly but the metal has not expanded yet. The transmission also needs it's warming up and lubrication before loading, and this is not done parked. This morning at -21C not even 1 min driving off easy is plenty.
Good advice not only for Porsche drivers, I thank you as an AMG driver 😉
I think these tips apply to all vehicle owners. I didn't hear any tip that is particularly unique to Porsche owners.
Scan tools will indicate which sensor is being affected...you then must look to see what is causing the sensor to give that reading. Thank you for the video.
I’ve been away from my Boxster since Covid struck. I can vouch for not letting your vehicle stand idle and I put my trust in JMH Cheshire. Great people and they look after my car when I cannot.
When I finally get back behind the wheel it will be amazing - all over again!
all sound advice , I've not even bought my 997 yet and ive pre purchased the 101 things to do to it book on your advice , keep it coming thanks
Great stuff Steve. It's good to be prepared, right now I'm in the middle of changing the rear brakes on my 997, really simple job and a great way to learn about the car. Thanks for watching.
A code reader is NOT going to tell you what's wrong with the car. It gives you a DTC. Diagnostic Trouble Code. This is a starting point. If you get, for example, a DTC of P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire. All that tells you is that there is a misfire at cylinder 3. But the source of the misfire could be an injector. A spark plug. A coil. Low compression. Carbon build up. Faulty wiring to the injectors. Faulty wiring to the coils. A faulty Engine Computer. And the list goes on. Sure, it can be practical to carry a code reader in order to minimize the chances of being scammed by a potential repair facility. But just know that not all code readers are created equal. And some will miss DTC'S that are present. Some will only read current DTC'S. Meanwhile your engine computer may have stored DTC'S that may be pertinent to the data needed to diagnose a particular problem. Whether it's electrical, mechanical or driveability. Also just to clarify. A code reader is what he's saying will tell you what's wrong with the car. Wrong. A SCANTOOL will give you access to live data. And an experienced Technician will interpret that data along with applying test procedures to diagnose what is wrong with the car. Code readers do NOT diagnose. They read. Codes. That's it. Even if you had a scantool. You wouldn't know what you're looking at.
Bingo!
What do you mean by up to temperature? Showing that the water is up to temperature, doesn't mean that the engine and the oil is, especially if you are using a thick oil
I agree..specifically the last point...people leave thier caymans in garages like it's a super car...enjoy it ! U didn't buy it to sell ! And it's fun to daily drive as well...that's why mine just hit 110km in just 5 years..and i don't regret it at all.
Holy crap, this well-informative upload is so underrated! It says 3 years ago but only had 426k views, 4.6 likes, & 637 comments. Liked and subscribed!
It is tempting to let it sit in the garage. I try to use mine about 2x a week or at least 1x a week. Agreed. Use the car. Get some fun out of it b4 it gets old!
I don't have garage queens I believe you should drive them as often as you can. Because the loss of value is the cost of all the enjoyment those drives brought too you. My 2 anyways. I put 30k miles on three Ferrari's over 4 years and pick up my new gt3 porshe this week I'll put 5-6k miles
That's me snookered regarding number 1. I've done 208 miles this year in my 2005 911 Carrera S which is 8 miles over my 200 miles P.A. limit. Laid up now until 2022.
Every used 911 on the market has multiple owners and cars are still going for top dollar. I came across a 2011 911 Turbo at $75k with only 27k mile but it had 7 previous owners! Who knows what they did to that car.
Maybe 1 day I’ll own one but it’s hard to overcome the unknown on a used 911
They reset the odometer.
Low mileage is sus, if they aren't driving the snot out of it then maybe something wrong.
Hey. How about cleaning under the fuel door? Appreciate your videos.
Haha yeah on my list of things to do. Out of sight, out of mind and all that. Thanks for watching :-)
Also need to raise your powered spoiler on the Cayman when washing to remove dirt that's pretty Cayman-specific though. But it's one often not thought about
Number 1 rule, that's the way, I'm not a rich man by any means, just a hard worker, but I really love cars, I have some knowledge in mechanics and I like it, so I'm looking for get a Boxster or Cayman in the not too far away future for like 20k € max, and keep on running my E46 compact diesel as daily driver, or whatever cheap used diesel car I get at that time, but most of all if I buy a car it's for driving it a lot. Great videos.
Add these please
- Cars have seats which can be used for sitting, fenders are there for looks, rain, safety etc
- well designed cars have fuelcap holders, no need to let them hang on their rubbers
You make some valid points.
I agree about the inside of your petrol cap. You need to clean that.
Good video though.
So the BP Station near my home has a great touch free wash that has serviced all my vehicles for the past decade with no slap and scratch. Are there no touch free options accross the pond?
As a biker obviously we don't use car washes, but guys never use a chamois leather it's like a fine sand paper I use a leaf blower it removes water and in those little nooks and crannies. Then a good quality polish, don't go for a drive before polishing to dry off.
I must admit I’m guilty of some of those.. especially not driving it enough. Someone else mentioned about the state of the inside of your filler cap which is and looks shite, but why do you let the cap dangle and scratch the car, place it in the holder. Good vid though👍
sitting on your car is a mistake you are making - taking almost 6 seconds to shift gears is another.......let alone shifting in the middle of a corner............ ; P
Well for starters, at 2:57 I would never let the gas cap after removing it dangle on the painted surface of the car. On my 911 GTS, the gas cap rests on the pin inside the gas cap lid.
I've seen a few dumb car review videos. This one could win an Oscar. The title did sucker me though.
A 10 years old cars, or a performance car should be service once a year, regardless of kilometers done by the car
Octane is the burn measurement, 91 would burn longer then 88 and the 88 will burn quicker.
Its why you see flames shooting out of exhausts in drag racing cars. The high octain burns the whole stroke of the piston.
New owner, didn’t know that about the warm-up, thank you! I did know about the fuel cap hanger, though 😉
sorry, couldn’t resist.
Thanks for another helpful video!
1. Use factory recommended octane fuel
2. No cheap carwashes
3. Wait until engine idles at 900 RPM before shifting into gear, keep RPMs at 2k until engine is warm
4. Maintain factory service intervals
5. Buy/use OBD code reader
6. Run engine (drive car) at least once a week to cycle battery, use trickle charger when not possible
7. "Shrink wrap" mentality to "retain the car's value"
Unless you are the owner of a limited/rare model (918, Carrera GT, GT3 RS, etc.) time will depreciate the value of your Porsche faster than mileage; it's not a collector's item. So enjoy your car.
First mistake I saw you make was sitting on your Porsche with non-microfiber pants! You sure enjoyed your Cayman on a pretty straight road! I don't even drive mine unless I'm headed towards the twisty mountain roads
Find these videos useful in prep for my planned Cayman purchase
Don't hang gas cap on the car body. Use the gas cap holder. Does Porsche not have a gas cap holder? :)
What's your definition of the engine being"up to temperature", do you go by the water temperature or the oil temperature?
Where possible the oil temp. Thanks for watching.
Water temp on my boxster
@@TheYjmfan I would suggest the oil temperature is still way too cold to safely rev the engine hard until quite a long time after the water gets up to normal temperature. From what I remember an oil temperature gauge isn't provided on the Boxster?
@@pjay3028 yes that's why I've been going by water temp.
Oil temp over 170F in my 718S. Revs stay under 3,000 until warm.
Imagine if the owner of the Yoshida Specials 930 (Blackbird) had listened to this guy. That car was run at 200MPH+ (on the fucking street) for almost 20 years straight and it's still around "oh no, can't do a Wangan run tonight, my undercarriage was wiped down with the same brush we used on that GT-R, my 2 million dollars of modifications are now null and void!"
BTW, clearing codes doesn't solve the problem. The codes are there for a reason. You literally just told people to turn their warning lights off and ignore their problem.
Just what I needed PORSCHES !!!!!
phew! I am so glad I didn't make this list! I bought the scan tool on your recommendation. I don't have that charging kit but charge my battery once a week at least.
1st mistake at 0.07 when you sit on the front of the car
In the US, 93 octane is generally all you can find. I have never seen a station with 99 Octane.
Hi Steve, interesting. I am going to look into this and was not aware at all. Thanks for watching :-)
On the US octane levels are usually quoted in "AKI", not "RON". AKI 93 should be at least RON 97. (See Wikipedia)
Steve Sandlin I use regular fuel is that ok? I’ve heard that’s fine (USA)
@@TrevorsExotics Probably will be for the US as Porsche US will have retarded the timing to cope with the lower flash point of the fuel.
Different octane scales in US, the fuels are the same they just use different numbering system.
This applies to all cars, not just Porsche automobiles.
The bottom line is....dont look after the car for the next owner. For gods sake enjoy it whilst you have it! Isnt that the point.
About #5, my air cooled 87 911 Owners Manual specifically stated NOT to start it cold and let it warm up at idle! It actually said to start and drive immediately.
And they are right to say that.
I don't own a Porsche 911. I do own a 2014 VW GLI with 200K on it. It rides like new like butter, and I'll share how:
1. Buy Pro version OBDeleven diagnostic scanner good for all VAG brands. Helps me identify issues, save money by not going to the dealer and tweak my car for free.
2. Always use Liqui Moly engine and transmission oils. My car came stock with Castrol Synthetic. It burned a lot of oil. After using LQ, my car burns 1 qrt every 5K miles with my high mileage. And I RELIGIOUSLY change my oil every 5K miles. I use Molytec, the green stuff, so can locate an oil leak in the first 1500 miles.
3. Get a stage 1 tune. Most reputable tune companies work with Porsche/Audi/VW. Here in LA the companies are APR and Unitronic. Unitronic seems to get the better bang for buck. $900 got me an ECU tune adding 50 hp and 100 tq and the TCU makes my dsg shift way smoother.
4. Aftermarket upgrades- for all VAG vehicles I have been very happy with 034 Motorsports products. I use an aluminum dogbone mount, solid rubber (not poly) engine/trans mounts and beefier rear swaybar.
i love the color on your car is it a 06’? i am in the market for a 06 cayman or boxster s
which one do you think is better
i am recently a camaro rs 13 owner
Fuel wise, you use the fuel rating that the car manual tells you to use.. 98 if it has to, but anything over that has zero relevance on stock tune.
But more importantly, use QUALITY fuel. Don't know about UK, but in Belgium i only use Shell Vpower 98
because it is the only Fuel supplier that tells me they do not put Bioethanol in that fuel.
The Non Bioethanol is important because it is not corrosive, and does not attract water, which means your engine runs better after a stand still (not that mine stands still often)...
and the Vpower stuff is also good for the injectors.. and in turn all good for the catalysators.. 167000 km and all stock all well everything works no issues.. I'm sticking to it.
Loverboy 🏹♥️ is Here.. Just got my Boxster,,, Thanks for the Tips ole Chap 🎩