Hey man you're NO loser! You are out there trying to make a repair that most people would probly take to some shop or dealership( if they have that kinda money which I do not have) so buddy my hats off to ya! And thanks for the bid, I wouldn't have considered a torch in that situation, again thanks
yes, heat is great for loosening tight metal things, BUT too much water added to the mix has quite the potential for causing cracks, especially in cast iron.
Thanks so much for this video we tried all day to get them out of the engine block... I found your video and it was out in 10 minutes ! Really helped us out more than you know!
Heat causes expansion. cold causes contraction. The combination of the two may break the bonds that makes things hard to move. Still, this is a good tip. Thanks man!
I hope to post a video of a plug repair on a 98 Dakota with a 5.2. Its in the bellhousing. I'll demonstrate how to make long allthread bolts that allow you to slide trans back to allow clearance to replace them. Trick I developed to quik change flexplates on an old Trans- Am that liked to crack flexplates on hard shifts. Could swap one out in an hour. Allows about 10 inches of working space. Btw, 301 crank flange bolts are 1/16 smaller at the head than 400 bolts. Once I caught it, 3 flexplates later, no more cracking. Shit happens when you have 12 Pontiac motors laying around 😉
This comes in handy on a bunch of different spots. Working on Class A trucks you do this all the time, not so much on cars. As long as you have 2 different types of metals, one will usually cool quicker than the other. Take er easy.
Butthead: "He-he thed 'chemical thigh-anth'." Beavis: "Whoa! Fire! Fire!" Butthead: "That was cool." Beavis: "Yeah." Actually, I think the term 'physics' would be appropriate here. Is it *quantum* physics? No, but it's physics. Heating and rapid cooling of two metals with dissimilar composition, mass and shape. Expansion and contraction.
total, I think there are 6 that you can actually find outside the bellhousing, 2 inside the bellhousing of trans that you won't ever see unless the trans is removed.. Just don't quote me on that, lol.
ouch, lol.You have to be able to drive it in somehow. Or get one of the freeze plugs that have the bolt in it, and just stick it in there and tighten it up. They aren't the best kind to use but do work.
hector mora My bronco has been sitting for years because of this. Freaking freeze plugs went and I tried everything including removing the motor mounts and hoisting the engine up a couple inches. The damn thing is in there. I might try this propane trick since I've got nothing to lose. I've slowly been getting it ready to pull the engine but if I could avoid that I'd be a happy camper.
just knock it in and put the new in and tap it in slowly, the plug may complete its degeneration in the block, wont go anywhere, fyi that much heat could crack the cast iron block. thnx though
I got a 93 Ford Ranger the plug is just under the exhaust manifold can't get to it what would you exist it's a 3-hour how can I get it out and put one in as maybe a rubber bolt turn in to plug it
Working on my 95 chevy 1/2 325k miles on it. Passenger side freeze plug is leaking, looks like I'm gonna have to remove the motor mount and raise the motor this one. Driver's side was a walk in the park thinking of just taking it to a shop, one of the biggest nightmares I've come across working on my truck
Thermo-molecular science is probably more accurate. I've got a c-$&k s@?ker of a freeze plug in the back of the passengers side head of my 68 GTO. I haven't tried heat yet.....but that's what's next. Heat and a fire extinguisher. Always have a fire extinguisher.
I get a lot of comments about damaging the block but really unless you really dont know what your doing (which in that case the person shouldn't attempt) you wont hurt anything. The plug is softer than the block.
,fucking,a! thanks,bro!!! i,just,replaced,a, LIFETIME WARRANTY not , broken WATER PUMP. WHEN,I,COULDVE,PAID,6$$$ oh,welll,, thanks,i had no idea,wat it was, ,and,a,shout,out,to,all,the,you tube mekaniks,like,my self
Bob Isbell Well it was a bitch but I used a prybar and some leverage. You could also get the kind that are rubber. It has a nut on it you can tighten up to expand in the hole to tighten up and seal. Ask your parts guy about em.
Thanks for the reply. I'm doing 8 on a Dakota right now. 2 were a MUST and at bad angles with the frame in the way and absolutely no swing room for a hammer to tap them in. Trying not to go rubber since these 2 are behind motor mounts but I did find some online that are expandable that do not use rubber too. I believe they are Dorman brand. Thanks again. JamesD2023
It's probably a little late for a fast reply.. But u can put the new freeze plug in the freezer. And then heat up around the hole where the freeze plug should go in.. The cold makes the freeze plug contract. And the heat makes the hole bigger.. Also a great technique for changing bearings without using a hydraulic press :)
You could for a temporary fix but it would leak most likely when it gets good and hot. Get a screw in freeze plug if it's that hard to get to. Removing it...just get it good and hot. It will come out.
HandsOnApproach ohh thank you SO MUCH! By any chance...would one be ($^^#@!$ PURPOSEFULLY placed) right behind a right motor mount on 5.7 gmc sierra 3500...? Right after i flushed the whole thing with thermostat removed and CLR AND radiator gum out a dosen times and ran with water while runing motor and stepping on it too (yes VERY DIRTY) i guess the weakest link gave up or i flushed out the leak seal or stop leak stuff mixed with rust particles (tonns of it)...
Hey man you're NO loser! You are out there trying to make a repair that most people would probly take to some shop or dealership( if they have that kinda money which I do not have) so buddy my hats off to ya! And thanks for the bid, I wouldn't have considered a torch in that situation, again thanks
Hey man, thank you. Take care.
yes, heat is great for loosening tight metal things, BUT too much water added to the mix has quite the potential for causing cracks, especially in cast iron.
Thanks so much for this video we tried all day to get them out of the engine block... I found your video and it was out in 10 minutes ! Really helped us out more than you know!
Heat causes expansion. cold causes contraction. The combination of the two may break the bonds that makes things hard to move. Still, this is a good tip. Thanks man!
Also you can just let the motor run and heat up, then take a couple ice cubes and melt them into the plug
I would advise to wash everything down with some degreaser 1st before starting a fire. Or at least have a liter of carbonated soda handy
Dude I cracked up at this 😂😂😂
I hope to post a video of a plug repair on a 98 Dakota with a 5.2. Its in the bellhousing. I'll demonstrate how to make long allthread bolts that allow you to slide trans back to allow clearance to replace them. Trick I developed to quik change flexplates on an old Trans- Am that liked to crack flexplates on hard shifts. Could swap one out in an hour. Allows about 10 inches of working space. Btw, 301 crank flange bolts are 1/16 smaller at the head than 400 bolts. Once I caught it, 3 flexplates later, no more cracking. Shit happens when you have 12 Pontiac motors laying around 😉
Funny that this is the same car and same freeze plug in having issues with. Thanks for the advice, hopefully its out by tomorrow
So how did you get the replacement back in?
Dude you're not a loser ✌
So heat expands and cold contracts.
This comes in handy on a bunch of different spots. Working on Class A trucks you do this all the time, not so much on cars. As long as you have 2 different types of metals, one will usually cool quicker than the other. Take er easy.
You add heat.... and it contracts huh....man I would love to meet your science teachers..
Butthead: "He-he thed 'chemical thigh-anth'."
Beavis: "Whoa! Fire! Fire!"
Butthead: "That was cool."
Beavis: "Yeah."
Actually, I think the term 'physics' would be appropriate here. Is it *quantum* physics? No, but it's physics. Heating and rapid cooling of two metals with dissimilar composition, mass and shape. Expansion and contraction.
total, I think there are 6 that you can actually find outside the bellhousing, 2 inside the bellhousing of trans that you won't ever see unless the trans is removed.. Just don't quote me on that, lol.
Great video. How would you install one in a tight spot? like behind the motor mount on a ford 302?
ouch, lol.You have to be able to drive it in somehow. Or get one of the freeze plugs that have the bolt in it, and just stick it in there and tighten it up. They aren't the best kind to use but do work.
hector mora My bronco has been sitting for years because of this. Freaking freeze plugs went and I tried everything including removing the motor mounts and hoisting the engine up a couple inches. The damn thing is in there. I might try this propane trick since I've got nothing to lose. I've slowly been getting it ready to pull the engine but if I could avoid that I'd be a happy camper.
Rubber freeze plug
You're playing the laws of thermodynamics in your favor
Thermodynamics is the word you were looking for
just knock it in and put the new in and tap it in slowly, the plug may complete its degeneration in the block, wont go anywhere, fyi that much heat could crack the cast iron block. thnx though
I got a 93 Ford Ranger the plug is just under the exhaust manifold can't get to it what would you exist it's a 3-hour how can I get it out and put one in as maybe a rubber bolt turn in to plug it
"This ain't gonna be a good video by any means" 0:33
chemical science...
What about putting it back in without taking the maniflod off. I am doing a 4.0 ford ranger and damn
Oosh. I'm not sure, havent done one like that. You might have to pull it off. Some are about impossible.
I have a 95 blazer are they in the same area and how many are there one or two
Working on my 95 chevy 1/2 325k miles on it. Passenger side freeze plug is leaking, looks like I'm gonna have to remove the motor mount and raise the motor this one. Driver's side was a walk in the park thinking of just taking it to a shop, one of the biggest nightmares I've come across working on my truck
How did you come out on that passenger side plug?what did you do because im going through the same thing
Michael Davis just JB weld it and fugettabout it
Whoop whoop!
Thermo-molecular science is probably more accurate. I've got a c-$&k s@?ker of a freeze plug in the back of the passengers side head of my 68 GTO. I haven't tried heat yet.....but that's what's next. Heat and a fire extinguisher. Always have a fire extinguisher.
I get a lot of comments about damaging the block but really unless you really dont know what your doing (which in that case the person shouldn't attempt) you wont hurt anything. The plug is softer than the block.
,fucking,a! thanks,bro!!! i,just,replaced,a, LIFETIME WARRANTY not , broken WATER PUMP. WHEN,I,COULDVE,PAID,6$$$ oh,welll,, thanks,i had no idea,wat it was, ,and,a,shout,out,to,all,the,you tube mekaniks,like,my self
I did the same thing lol the other day
No prob man
Ah c'mon, you couldn't show how you put it back in to that tight spot? I could have really used that helpful info right about now.
Bob Isbell Well it was a bitch but I used a prybar and some leverage. You could also get the kind that are rubber. It has a nut on it you can tighten up to expand in the hole to tighten up and seal. Ask your parts guy about em.
Thanks for the reply. I'm doing 8 on a Dakota right now. 2 were a MUST and at bad angles with the frame in the way and absolutely no swing room for a hammer to tap them in. Trying not to go rubber since these 2 are behind motor mounts but I did find some online that are expandable that do not use rubber too. I believe they are Dorman brand. Thanks again.
JamesD2023
It's probably a little late for a fast reply.. But u can put the new freeze plug in the freezer. And then heat up around the hole where the freeze plug should go in..
The cold makes the freeze plug contract.
And the heat makes the hole bigger..
Also a great technique for changing bearings without using a hydraulic press :)
Thanks for the tip. I do have 1 left and its on the drivers cylinder head.
Screw this, im thinking about JB welding the freaking thing on my 2000 gmc sierra ...any thoughts anyone?
You could for a temporary fix but it would leak most likely when it gets good and hot. Get a screw in freeze plug if it's that hard to get to. Removing it...just get it good and hot. It will come out.
HandsOnApproach ohh thank you SO MUCH! By any chance...would one be ($^^#@!$ PURPOSEFULLY placed) right behind a right motor mount on 5.7 gmc sierra 3500...?
Right after i flushed the whole thing with thermostat removed and CLR AND radiator gum out a dosen times and ran with water while runing motor and stepping on it too (yes VERY DIRTY) i guess the weakest link gave up or i flushed out the leak seal or stop leak stuff mixed with rust particles (tonns of it)...
Your vid wasn't all that bad