Mike Makes Sawhorses | DIRESTA vs. Matthias Wandel Design!
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2024
- I needed a few sawhorses for the shop. Instead of buying some, I made them with scrap wood. I couldn't choose between Jimmy Diresta's and Matthias Wandel's design so I made both!
Which one did I decide to make a set of for the shop? Watch the video to find out! I was lucky enough to use a chop saw, table saw, radial arm saw, and nail gun. But it can be done with just a circular saw.
I should note that since Diresta didn't have any plans, I can't guarantee I replicated his design perfectly.
UPDATE: Turns out Jimmy did post plans after the video on his Instagram account. I actually wasn't too far off. I used 15 degree cuts instead of 13, and my leg width tapered to 3 inches instead of 2.
/ y52jlfpoub
Jimmy Diresta Video:
• Diresta: Sawhorses
Matthias Wandel Video:
• Building sawhorses
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The tippiness is mostly a function of weight. I think the diresta design is meant to have the legs splayed out towards the ends a bit (that is, the end cap is not vertical), which would make them stack quite compact. Back at my dad's, we'd often stack 600 board feet of lumber (weighing about 900 lbs) on a pair of sawhorses without giving it much thought. Or put a 20' long 8x8 beam on a pair to cut joinery.
Matthias Wandel Thanks for the response. Yes, someone below mentioned splaying the legs. It looks like jimmydiresta used 5 degrees. Overall I was happy with both designs.
I'm not sure I understand the "vs" part. You build 1 of jimmys and 1 of Mathias. And you liked mathias's better. Where is the comparison? I was waiting for you to park a truck on them and see what held up. Don't take any of what I said as negative. I enjoyed the video and I'm going to subscribe. Btw I compare sawhorse by weight and size when stored
Both are awesome designs, forget the "VS", it's all up to what feels best baby :D
Shaun Brown I dare say he built one of each, used them, then built more of the design that worked for him. Admittedly the Diresta version had shorter legs originally - so they're not really like-for-like comparisons anyway. Both are cool. Was nice to see a comparison of two of my favourite makers...
***** I felt Matthias design won 30seconds in for having build specifications. Will the real Diresta have the same problems? Hard to tell, no one can replicate it exactly.
Very good video!! I agree his are much stronger! But I was going for lite and made from scrap small stackable concept .. And in all honesty I stole the design from lowes. With slight mods in the details. Thank you !! congrats Matthias !!
jimmydiresta Thank you so much for responding. You're such an inspiration, I hope that came across in the video!
Mike and Lauren Yes thank you for the love and support!
jimmydiresta very cool+++ that you would comment so humbly Jimmy
jimmydiresta But Jimmy, You won in my book.
jimmydiresta stole from Lowe's. yep, I was going to say, looks like the commercial variety
Matthias vs. Diresta = Engineer vs. Artist
its just a tool
+Fester Blats agreed
Fester Blats i disagree
diresta is a great builder in general and great with making useful things but matthias is simply a genius and takes too much care and thought into things functionally, there's no contest when it comes to stuff like this but I'm sure diresta would best wandel in something like restoration or something more aesthetic
Of course the engineer wins here. Engineers solve practical problems. Not problems like, "What is beauty?" Because that would fall within the purview of your conundrums of philosophy.
Enjoyed the comparison, and glad both builders were civil to each other !
Thanks everyone
well OBVIOUSLY the DiResta ones didn't work as well, you forgot to stencil your name onto it!
With that logic, he should have painted the Matthias models classic green :-D
These are pretty cool. Thanks for doing a comparison on the two designs.Look forward to watching more of your videos.
Nicholas Gomez Thanks!
Excellent job. I had been wandering about both of those designs myself. thanks for experimenting and helping.
I Love how easy this ruclips.net/user/postUgkxvAj3godqGAIP5rApM1laH767JGtPG1-h carrier is to adjust from my friend to me taking turns holding the baby! It provides great support on my back too! This has definitely made shopping easier! I always get asked where I get it too!
Why I haven't found a channel like this before, this is simply of the chain ! keep up the great work !
This is a reasonable daily-use test. GOOD for you! Thanks for sharing, it helps save time and materials to make the stronger unit to begin with.
I'm very impressed you did this the proper way. You took time to build both and worked with them to form your opinions.
I prefer the way Jimmy's look also. I would have guessed his would have won out.
DiResta went to art school, Matthias has more of an engineering background. These sawhorse designs reflect their differences perfectly.
Thanks for doing this! There are a lot of people that are always looking for a better sawhorse.
drstampfli Thanks! I actually talked about how they reflect the artist vs. engineer perfectly in the video, but it got too long.
Jay Bates design is excellent for a quick on the fly saw horse that you won't want to leave home without. You'll be the envy of all the guys at work. I use mine mostly as a table top work bench. I do like to see the different designs though. good stuff. thanks guys!
good job! Jimmy will looking at his sawhorse now going wait a damn minute! For me, they are both great builders so it's all about choices of personal preference. Thanks as that was fun
Matthias of course....no surprise there. Enjoy vids from both Matthias and Diresta.
Traditional saw horses were taught as an exercise in compound joinery lay out and cutting. Legs should splay to the side and to the ends. I make mine with an I-beam top now as I do lots of timber framing and heavy gates etc. Did the ply legs splay out with a lot of weight on them?
Matthias is the king of function over form!
I've had two of the Matthias ones for years - great horses! So stable. I used them for dips for ages too.
Good choice. I made Wandel's sawhorses recently and I like them a lot too. Couple of things that Wandel did that make them even better is he uses plywood bracing on both inside and outside of the legs. He also made an 18 degree bevel cut half way through bottom of each leg.
Also Matthias design allows for clamping workpieces on the end, which comes in handy sometimes!
If you make (or buy) sawhorses that have braces between the legs (near the feet), you can put weight on those braces to prevent them from tipping over. A couple of shot bags, some planks that you have lying around, even your foot, depending on your position.
This lets you make the sawhorse itself much lighter (or even use cheap foldable plastic sawhorses, as long as the load is under 120 kg or so), without running into the issue you described. Adding weight and volume to the sawhorse _itself_ means you'll be lugging around that weight (and losing space) all the time.
RFC3514 Which only matters if you don't always want that extra stability, plus now, instead of lugging around a heavier the same thing, you're carrying it and a bag of shot or sand, or whatever.
seigeengine First, you don't need to carry the weight; as mentioned above, you can just use anything that is available at the workplace (ex., some boards, a log, water weights, sandbags, a toolbox, etc.).
Second, the fact that you're putting the weight near the bottom means the centre of gravity will be lower, which will make it more stable. That means you can achieve the same stability as the heavier sawhorse with _less_ weight. So, even if you decide that you need to carry the weight around, the total weight (light sawhorse + separate weight) will be _lower_ for the same stability.
The only reason to add weight to the top of a sawhorse (or to the structure as a whole) is if you're also adding strength (and if you _need_ that strength, of course, otherwise it's a waste). For _stability_ (which is the issue Mike mentioned as the deciding factor for him), it's best to add the weight closer to the ground. Bottom braces allow you to do that when necessary, without adding permanent weight or volume to your sawhorses.
RFC3514 You still need to move said weight around, go through the extra effort of looking for it, and that's all assuming we're going somewhere at all. The entire point is pretty silly in a single workshop where they don't have to move far and loading them down repeatedly will be a hassle.
I understand how stability works, thanks. You could easily replicate that in design, if you were so inclined. Never mind to have it low enough to make a difference over a heavier sawhorse, you'd have to remove the ability for the sawhorses to be easily stacked or transported in the first place by placing the shelf significantly lower than the center of mass. You can get around this, but only with additional inconvenience of having to attach and detach a shelf of some form. A shelf which you then have to also bring with you, even if you don't use it, just in case you do.
Meanwhile, in reality, what you add by doing it your way is moderate inconvenience, and the associated additional time and effort every single time you want to use the sawhorses in a sturdier way, which, let's be honest, is pretty much all the time. And you add a transient increase in weight and possibly also volume to your sawhorses.
See, the thing is, I've never looked at something and thought "this was built way too sturdy."
seigeengine Who said anything about a _shelf_? A foot brace doesn't prevent sawhorses from being stacked. In fact, you can even make them _foldable_. Have you seriously never seen or used sawhorses with a bar between the feet...?
And you clearly _don't_ understand how stability works, if you think it would add weight and volume. I already explained above why it does exactly the opposite (this isn't just used for sawhorses, BTW, most professional tripods come with accessories to add weight to the feet or to the bottom of the central column - which is far more efficient than making the structure itself heavier).
If you want to lug around the _heaviest_ possible sawhorse on the grounds that "you might need it", by my guest. I (and most people I know) prefer _efficient_ tools, even if that means that in 5% of cases you might need to spend 10 seconds attaching some accessory, turning some knob, or putting a toolbox on top of it.
By your "logic" (I use the word quite wrongly), everyone should use sawhorses made out of solid steel because "it's sturdier". Whatever design and material you pick, you're always making a choice between strength and weight. If you're never going to put more than 150 kg on them, why would you need sawhorses designed to take 600 kg? Did you watch the video? Maximum load wasn't even mentioned. And adding foot braces makes the tripods _sturdier_, anyway, not _less_ sturdy. The fact that it lets you save weight on _other_ parts of the structure and still retain the original stability is just a bonus.
I get the feeling that you're just arguing for the sake of it. Bad day at the office?
In terms of physics, around 12-13 degrees is the best balance between strength and stability. Gives enough splay (both directions) to never tip, but no so much that the legs collapse out under load. I have put a lift of plywood the pair I made in tradeschool, the legs are made of 1x6, with 3/8 plywood gussets 2 per side. 2x6 top beam on the flat, legs mortised in. That Mortise step is easily skipped and shortens the build time considerably if your not landing planes on your sawhorses.
I love both designs, one meant to last a long time the other quick and dirty. Both have a place in the average shop. Nice review of two great RUclipsrs!
Very good comparison and super informative. Thanks for doing this.
Ricky Walden Thanks, you're welcome!
The problem with both versions is that the use screws that are located pretty close to the top. A circular saw could hit one of them.
I really like the foldable kind that are easy to knock down, and hang on the wall out of the way. On the ones I made (similar to the "ShopDog" kind), the legs are like pliers with pivot points. the jaws grab the crossbar. When you remove the crossbar, the jaws close completely like scissors. The crossbar stores in a hole in the pliers "handle" and the whole thing hangs on the wall. And if you want, you can use different kinds and heights of crossbars - rollers, carpet covered, notched for pipe or clamps etc. They are strong and don't tip over. They took me a little more time to make. And I painted them in my shop color scheme, but man I am glad I did. My shed is only 20' x 12' so everything I put in there has to be thought out as far as size and storage goes.
Watched those built by both and like you chose Matthais's but used 2x6 cross beams instead of 2x4's adjusted the legs to angle but there 2x4 ect; I used them to make short scaffold 30" high with 2x10's and there terrific and strong. Thanks Mike !!
I like Matthias Wandels also. I made some similar about 10 years ago! I added a 1x4 on top (no glue and it's easily removable for replacement) for saw blade knicks and cuts.
Great vid. I like how you showed the comparison and explained why you chose the Wandel horses.
Nice comparison, and great pick. Awesome video.
another major factor in the tipping of the sawhorse is friction. if you were to perhaps use a finish, or surface the top with a slicker material, I feel like they would perform similarly.
Cool video. Personally I went with the Shopdog design because it is incredibly versatile and heavy-duty. I made two pair for a door shop where I used to work. The guys there all wanted to take home a set so I ended up making more. What I like best is that the tops can be swapped out according to needs. I usually use them with basic 2x4s just a little wider than the legs. But I can use a 2x6 or 2x10 or 2xWhatever if I want them taller. And I have a set of 2x4 tops with evenly spaced dadoes to hold parallel clamps for huge glueups. And they fold up!
The plans were $5 and I got my money's worth many times over. I highly recommend them to anyone who needs a set, especially if your needs vary over time.
Jon Miller Look's pretty cool. If I needed mine to be mobile I would definitely try them out.
Jon Miller I bought the plans and have yet to build them. Glad that you endorse them. They looked great to me and I did not mind paying the man for them. I wish that he would build something else.
Right? Not only is the design excellent but his plans are very clear and easy to follow.
Hey there. I appreciate your video and I like the 2x4 design as well. I noticed you beveled at least one of them to give a groove for round stock. I like that feature. The horses I built at OSU Ag College in 1984 used all 1" stock except for the 2x6 end blocks. The legs set at 15 degrees to the body and 12 degrees out-pitch. Excellent stability. The drawback is that the design relied heavily on screws. I think I will try the design you landed on and add a 12 degree kick to the legs. That puts the leg ends almost even with the ends of the horse. The use of a through-bolt would eliminate the need for a plywood gusset. My guess is, as beefy as the build is, you could eliminate the gusset for 95% of its uses, especially if you are working on any but slick surfaces with massive loads. The ones I made - a pair held over a ton while being used for display in a farm store. It's all about distribution of the load. Blessings. Merry Christmas. Thanks for the share.
great video! thanks, very useful!
Mandala man You're welcome!
I love your point of "lateral strength". That is a major quality I didn't realize annoyed me about my horses, which do flip over...
Brandon Wade Thanks! I discovered it was what bothered me after using these two horses together and Matthias's was solid as a rock.
I am quite sure I dont need a sawhorse (I didnt even know such a word existed before I saw this) but the quality of this video made me stay
I do miss the Wandel Green color though..... :D
Good point on the lateral strngth (****stability;-) . I was immediately reminded that I also hated that about flimsy saw horses
I was trying to find good folding design - have you by chance tried any of the folding designs to see how they do on this?
Pretty sure Jimmy Diresta was making those to hold piles of stuff, to clean up as it were, not necessarily to be used for daily projects. He said he saw the design at the store, copied it, but made them smaller to serve his needs. In the end, you make a great point about design and what would work for you. I also realize this comparison is from 2 years ago, but believe your video is good, and still informative!
thanks for that. Those are two of my favorite makers too!
The saw horse tips when the resisting moment of the saw horse is less than the moment of the pushing board (weight times distance < weight times distance). More weight or more wide. Having a light stack-able saw horse sounds pretty sweet. Just make them wide as needed ... of course having massive stuff is fun too, so either way.
What I wanted to know.....is how you determine that 18degree angle? Probably with a framing square and that is the knowledge I am looking for.
Well done. Yes, I have been doing construction for over 3 decades now and I am here to say you made the right choice, Matthias design is both simple and functional.
Granted Diresta's design is elegant but I knew it would also be flimsy and delicate; not saying bad things just adding my two cents. If light function is your need then by all means Diresta's design is boss.
Matthias design does allow for a break down feature too; simply do not glue the legs to the cross beam and you can break down those saw horses rather quickly. And you can add carriage bolts to make the assembly and break down that much faster. Of course you lose the cross brace but I am sure you can fashion a cross brace that would work without needing to be attached. If you put a dado in the legs you can fit a piece of 1 x 4 to act as a bridge and then use a long carriage bold located between the cross brace and the bottom of the double 2 x 4 to act as a clamp once the carriage bolt is tightened.
The dado's in the 2 x 4 allow for strength and stability. The only thing I might change would be the legs, not much of a change however. As you make the miter cut at the top I would take off about 3/4" so that you use more of the thicker part of the miter. And it would fill in that gap between the miter and the dado just to clean it up a bit.
Matthias "eye beam" or I Beam Design could be further altered to allow for a replaceable part. Make a rabbit down the inside edge about 3/4" wide x 1" or more deep, on both sides to allow for a 2 x 3" strip to be added. That way you cut through it you won't cut the I Beam and if you do cut it enough the piece is easily replaceable. Simply run a few screw through the side to hold it in place, that way no metal will ever get close to your blade.
I hope you consider using my suggestions... Enjoy....
Paul Bialozor Thanks for the suggestions! I agree I should have got the top off a bit to give the screws more to grab on to.
Been looking for a saw horse that didn’t do that, glad you pointed that out
I made a couple of the Matthias ones, but since I didn't have any plywood for the leg braces I just cut a piece of 2x4 to glue and screw between the legs, and with it tight against the top rails they stack a lot more stable.
My first time watching your channel. Nice video and good test of the designs. Subscribed!
Eu já tinha escolhido o design do Matthias devido ao material que eu tenho, mas o seu vídeo me confirmou que fiz a escolha certa. Obrigado e parabéns!
Nice! I hope both Mattias and Jimmy will watch and respond.
Im in a very small space. So collapsibility is a must for me. But if i had the space...
I think you could give the Mathias sawhorse a Deresta look by adding a sacrificial 1x4 on top. The only thing I would change is adding that sacrificial piece because I like to cut on my sawhorses with my circular saw. I adjust the depth of the cut so it always ends up just going past the wood I'm cutting into the sawhorse tops by about a 1/8 of an inch. Without that 1x4 on top it would eat up the sawhorse over time. If you add the top then when enough of it gets eaten up you could always just replace the top and it would be a as good as new.
I really like izzy swan's 3 legged saw horses. Great for uneven ground on jobsites.
Oops I forget to thank ya for the video. great job...
I got Matthias ones, but instead of plywood I uses some scapwood from 2x1, and made thinner tops from 3x3 (thus they stack much better). Used 20 degrees angle to make them even more stable and easier to cut ;). They are really stable and sturdy, but some times when I pull 3 or more 4x4 on them, even they wobble :).
Add some horizontal braces on the legs, they'll act as packers when you stack them and provide more rigidity to the legs.
have you tried the I-beam design?
Add a 2x6 top turned flat. You will then need to make the end braces a little taller to be able to stack them. This makes a great work surface for clamping pieces. In addition it gives more surface to stand on. Mine only use 1 2x4 along the top. I have used these swa horses for more than 40 years.
i enjoy both diersta and wandel channels, both men have different experiences there for both have different needs from their builds.
i think its a shame some of the comments get a bit personnal below, but i think thats called pulling someone else down to make yourself feel better and the need for it is the greatest shame really.
that cant and doesnt change the fact both men are very good at what they do, and wont spoil the veiwers enjoyment of their respective channels.
and i know there are spelling mistakes just in case anyone feels the need to point it out, its called havung dyslexia and doesnt make my comment any less valid
+lifesabuzzwhoopwhoop I've been "havung" a hard time spelling lately myself...
+Liam Duff fuck me... I was under the impression the misspelt word, "havung" wasn't meant to be "having" at all, & was a certain type of dyslexia. At least you've got a diagnosis.. I'm just a good ol'fashioned dummy!
Liam Duff Shows how much you know about dyslexia. I may have to rewrite a comment a few times to get it right, and if i dont have spell check on i may miss my mistakes.
But seeing letters mixed up on a screen or page has nothing to do with intelligence. its not a disability and i manage pretty well. The only reason i put the dyslexia comment up is because good ol'fasioned dummies like yourself, tend to leave dumb comments but you'd know that though as you already left yours.
Thought you would like the wandels better. Plus easier to router a U groove down the top to help hold pipe or dowels when working on them. I have a couple of cheap plastic that I use to hold my tile saw. a couple of fir strips on the sides stiffened them right up. But I would not try to put any serious weight on them.
Kudos for actually making both to compare but you could pretty guess the result :) - the weight alone was telling how light the DiResta sawhorse was going to be
Just found your channel (we're new youtubers). Great video comparison. Love watching Matthias' channel.
Slowvannah Farms Thanks! Matthias is the man!
Lauren doesn't even look old enough to know what Lincoln logs are. Mine were actually made of stained wood, (the logs and the tongue and groove roof planks) showing you what a dinosaur I am. LOL
What? You didn't include the saw horses that Norm Abram built? I'm crushed.
Jimmy's design was intended to be built at 24" probably for stability reasons. 36" just throws off the angles that were grabbed from the video. were the other angles and degrees and things multiplied for the longer legs?
Even with the shorter length, it still would be unstable
That's not the dimension that he changed. DiResta's horses were 24" long, from end to end of the top surface - that dimension has nothing to do with the legs. Mike just made it longer such that it had a larger surface.
Has anyone mentioned, and have you tried, the Shop Dog design for saw horses?
I like the Jay Bates saw horse the best, nice and simple.
Ian Johnson jay bates copied a design that has been around for a long time. Not exactly his own idea or design
Interesting video! both are my favourite youtubers too!
or the angle was wrong?
You need to try Jay Bates' design, they are quick and strong as heck. The bonus is that all the cuts are 90°.
Is the diresta horse mainly for balsa wood!
A sawhorse is designed for the weight limits required. I have seen 4x4 and 4x6 sawhorses but those are special needs.
I've always liked the design from Norm Abrams and The New Yankee Workshop. The episode gives all but a length of the legs. I found about 30 inches to be best and Dad "upgraded" the legs to 5/4 decking. Beyond that the key is 15 degrees to Norm's. But of these two I'd go with Matthias and his design.
What do you think about Paul Sellers sawhorses?
The legs on Diresta model need to be widened at the base. That will fix the issue. Vinny
or just polish the top.
Dhruv Panchal or take the wood off from the sides (the short way)
Hey Mike, nice video thanks!
Was that a Triton thicknesser?
Is it worth buying the Triton?
No, I haven't tried any triton tools so I can't comment.
I think Jay Bates' saw horse design is really good - I find it the sturdiest and most functional.
Youbones A lot of people seem to like his design. I have nothing against it, to each his own.
You could put a small foam pad at the inside base of each leg so they didn't knock together.
Well, if you like Mattias' design - you just have to add testing part. You know, this butt-first jump :)
very nice comparison. and why you like mathias is very logical.
The stability problem appears to be a weight issue.
I have this same problem with mine which are in the theme deresta style. It is lack of mass why horses tip over. My design uses 22.5 degree on every cut, stretcher, top and bottom of legs. Sheer strength of the stretcher is through the leg screws.
What do you attribute the extra stability to? The extra overall weight/beefiness? Or are the legs wider?
Bueno job btw!
Kevin R. Thanks. I'm pretty sure it's the extra width of the 2x4 legs. It doesn't seem like much, but it's actually double the surface area.
Mike and Lauren You mean the area of the feet? But neither model seems to be _sliding_ along the floor, so in both cases the friction is enough to make the feet stay where they are.
The issues (assuming the _distance_ between the outer point of the feet is identical, which isn't entirely clear) seem to be friction with the workpiece itself (Jimmy's design seems to have a flatter, wider contact surface), and weight (Matthias' are 25% heavier).
If the distance between the feet _isn't_ identical, then that's also an important difference (the wider the base, the more stable they'll be - though they'll also take up more space, of course, since they don't fold).
The area of the feet (and their static friction with the floor) will mainly determine whether the sawhorse is more likely to slide or pivot.
The yellow glue, Titebond, will only take 5 or so freezes since it is water based, according to their web site.
Holy sh... I actually had a lincoln log house as a kid and I guess that is the reason I enjoy woodworking today.
I have the same green dewalt radial arm saw. It was my great grandfather's. I also have the stand. Damn good tool, it'll out live me.
Nevermind, saw the stand at 2:08
He just did a video where he lifts his tractor off the ground. Wow.
I just read your comments. Wow
Something wrong with the wow that I'm not getting.
.Wow
Or maybe people just like it. Wow
Personally, I'd combine the two designs: Instead of cutting the rabbet through, I'd keep a bit of wood at the top. That way, the weight doesn't only rest on the screws and glue.
Of course those are plenty strong as they are and I doubt my 'improvement' is actually needed but I tend to go overkill on these things.
Nice point on the lateral strength.
Even if they are much heavier, I prefer mattias' version. 1. they are much more sturdy and take a bigger load. 2. they are not plywood. we use sawhorses often on buidling sites outside to store and finish large beams, then plywood would soak up water in wet grass or from rain, wich destroys it. and 3. matthias' design is the common design here in switzerland and around, so they're (to me) much more familiar and sympathic. we build them traditionally the top beam out of one 10x10centimeter piece and use dovetails to connect the legs with the beam (makes it extra sturdy and capable for heavy loads as for example cutting and carving out the main beams for a roof etc.) Jimmy's version may be ok for small objects in the shop and for hobby-carpenters but I wouldn't trust them too much.
perhaps that you added the extra 12 inches for height caused the saw horse to have less lateral resistant?.
My ShopDog sawhorses had the same tipping issue. A little sanding and Carnauba wax solved the issue.
If you just throw a piece of plywood over top of that Matthias design it would make it "look" better. I think its just the top that looks hacked together... but I agree function over form, I wouldn't bother with making them look better as long as it works. Those look like they'd hold a ton of weight.
I think Jack Howeling needs to have a automated video battle between them-crashing into each other, max weight before crushing, burn time.:-)
William Dawson Haha!
My 2 favourites as well.
I believe you mentioned that you changed Diresta's design by making the legs 36" rather than Diresta's 24". This may or may not account for the instability of the higher design. Anyway, good video and good points made.
Actually, sawhorses were designed to support a fair amount of weight while sawing, thus the name. For pulling sheet goods over a supporting object might I suggest the adjustable roller stands, available at a number of retailers and box stores for a reasonable sum. They're metal, with ball bearing rollers, can swivel and adjust height.
There's a tool for every job. Nice comparison BTW.
woodstoney never found a pair of rollers worth a damn, and i have used quiet a few. I make my living off of my tools, and can't afford to spend money on crap gadgets that don't do the job well.
Mathias's is better.
There's another sawhorse design that I really like. It is like neither of these.
Not disputing your results, but the DiResta design's legs splay out end-to-end (lengthwise) a bit, so that multiple horses can be stacked. You built yours straight vertical. Wouldn't impact the stability issues you had, though. I think that's more of a function of the differences in leg thickness and the friction of a single 'flat' 2x4 top vs two 2x4's which present a little less surface for friction, due tot he chamfered edges.
How's the weight difference between the two designs? Amount of material used?
Andrew Brannan Diresta's weighed 11.2 pounds, Matthias weighed 14. Definitely lighter, but not as much as I thought.
Ooh, I like this music!
Thanks, Beth In Everett (whose name I can't +mention right now), for your +1!
Nice, you did "mod" Diresta's from 24 to 36 too, that could account for the movement.
i have made 4 from matthias's plans and give them hell. they are now covered in paint and are my goto bench doing anything messy. paint, degreasing, welding, home renos.
have had them sit under my trailer for 3 months in the back yard in the open while i rebuilt the trailer.
truely a great work horse :) and if one day they ever do break, $10 each and 1 hour work i can replace them.
Onya Jimmy, they doo like trick and light too!
Perhaps adding a foot to the legs contributes some to the instability on the Diresta horses.
jealousy / envied DIRESTA babyyy !!!
Do what you do with love. . . not to compete
Each design has it merits but I like the legs of sawhorses to angle outward. This prevents wobbling and as the weight get heavier they become more stable.