FYI, working on my 1982 John Deere 317, in regards to the swashplate orientation, I installed it with the 'more material' side to the top of the housing, as you suggested and reverse had the speed of forward, and forward had speed of reverse. Looked into my manual, and it says to install it opposite of what the video shows, 'with the thin pad toward the top of the housing'. Not sure how many others have encountered this, just bringing it up to everyone's attention. Not trying to discount your video, great detail, and really enjoyed watching it, just thought I should mention that.
A very good video. My reason for rebuilding this is to address the noise that these pumps make. I wish you would have touched upon that some and in particular the tolerances of the wear plates and pump assembly. As it is, you basically resealed the assembly. Also, as most of us are mechanically inclined, we watch these videos to learn and are not necessarily interested in being entertained with loud music and dancing introductions. Other than that, it was very informative.
Very helpful video but just as a heads up to the other folks who are watching this for specs....Measure your own bearing dimensions. My JD 430 has the same basic pump but with a 0.750 shaft instead but does measure the same on the swashplate pivot seals. Ended up with CR 7443 seals for the larger shaft and CR 6763 seals for the swashplate pivot seals. Thanks again for posting a well made vijeo!
Thank you for tuning in and thank you for your comment! I would assume there are bigger bearings and seals due to a larger input and output shaft. This might be due to the diesel engine that produces around 20HP and about 45 NM of torque. Your information will be valuable to those that are in need of other bearings & seals. Cheers Regards Andreas
thanks was having prolems spv 15 on a case 1818 skid steer the the slippers have worn out after waching you going to strip it down and have a go thanks from scotland
When one has problems, there are always solutions! I'm glad I could encourage you to fix your hydraulic motor and I hope you can get your handy 1818 Case skid steer back up and running! Best regards from Canada
Thank you very much Terry! I tried my best to show and explain every part within this hydraulic motor and pump assembly. I hope you'll have success if you ever need to work on your Sundstrand. Regards Andreas
The Sundstrand U pumps are a very robust design and are still being manufactured to this day. They've been in production for over 50 years. I took one apart a few years ago, it's really neat to see how they work. I think Sundstrand/Sauer Danfoss gives them a 5,000 hour service life, but they basically last forever.
I fully agree, they are very very robust! The design is very simple and it gives the operator a smooth ride. I hope you learnt something, because I sure did! 5000 operating hours is fantastic and that's why these pumps are literally everywhere. I might have to dig into my Bolens rear-end (Sundstrand inline pump) because it's been acting up. I did not touch it when I rebuilt the tractor...but maybe I should have! Cheers
Danfoss (Sunstrand) does not produce the Series 15 line of pumps, motors, and transmissions any more. Thankfully service rights have been sold to QCC out of Illinois.
I just rebuilt mine wich is the same one your rebuilding in the video except mines middle 80s year model, I tried everything I tried turning the charge pump 180 degrees thinking I had it on the wrong way, I tried pouring some (hytran) down the 2 pressure relive valves and I get no forward or reverse.. I watched your video so I knew I put it together right
Hello Blane! I‘m sorry to hear that you are experiencing issues with your hydraulic pump! What exactly does not work? If you do not have lift capabilities, then it is your charge pump (front cover plate with RH/LH). If you forward/reverse does not work, then it is your hydraulic pump section. There are many small components within this pump and you must get everything right. The hydraulic pump and motor have very similar parts, but the must be kept on the right side. For instance if you switched the swash plates, then you will not have the correct flow... There are many things that can be misplaced or flipped. Let me know what you find out. Regards Andreas
Watching the installation of the roll pins in the variable swash plate I couldnt help wondering how they were removed. I imagine they were drilled to remove them? Or are there access plugs in the case to drive them out? Excellent tutorial.
That's a great question! The bottom half of the housing has two reliefs on either side of the swashplate. Since the variable swashplate is held onto each shaft with two roll pins, there is enough room to punch them out. Each pin is 5/8" in length and both pins must be removed to dismantle this assembly. If someone installs a longer rollpin, it would have to be drilled out. Hopefully this does not happen, as one could damage the bore once it's drilled and there might be more to fix. I hope that helps & Best regards Andreas
@@lesdickinson3785 When removing the trunnion shafts, one pin will be in the swash plate and the other in the shaft. Driving the pins from the top a prescribed depth so the parting line between the 2 pins lands 1 in the swash plate and the other in the shaft. On mine there is only 1/2" of clearance between the housing and swash plate. You might be able to drive out a 5/8" long pin if the plate is angled to the forward position.
Thanks for the video. I have a 317 and it ran and moved really good. Then one day mowing across the yard it just stopped moving. I don’t know anything about a hydrostatic but getting a lot of ideas to check on. Thanks
You're more than welcome! 317's are great little machines and with proper maintenance you'll have a good tractor for many years to come! I'm sorry to hear that you rear-end quit on you!! The first thing I would check is your fluid level (sight tube in the back) and you oil-filter. It's possible that there is not enough fluid or fluid flow to create enough pressure within the system. This will not allow your motor/pump to provide any power to the transmission. I hope this helps and if you have any others questions feel free to ask. Best regards -Andreas
I just changed the filter. I’m almost positive I’ve got an issue with the pop up valves for the free wheel. But still researching other option. I’m going to drive into your content log the breakdown of this transmission. Thanks for what you do and congratulations on your channel
Hi James, I didn't find a service manual that shows the clearances needed for the charge pump. Maybe if you reach out to Danfoss with your hydraulic motor model and serial number they can send you the correct manual free of charge. Another way you can check your charge pump is to check your system pressure. You can hook up a manometer to your auxiliary lines and active the hand-lever. If your pressure is within spec, then there shouldn't be anything wrong with your charge pump. I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
I dont think you showed it but I might have missed it. How did you do the seal for the swash plate that goes to the drive linkage? Got a 1978 John Deere 312 I need to change that seal on.
There are two seals left & right. They are both the same size and they are lip-seals. In the link below you can find the exact seal size and they are called "Trunnion Shaft Seals". The trunnion shaft is connected to the swashplate which activates your forward & reverse. I hope that helps and if you have any other questions, feel free to ask. Best regards
Hi there, I had a quick look online and found "CR 6763 Shaft Seal" should fit just fine. The Inside diameter for the trunnion seal is in the link in the description, but here it is for your convenience: 0.688 in Shaft Dia., 1.187 in OD, 0.188 in Overall Width I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
@WorkshopRebuild Well, i'm gonna try to replace this seal while it's on the JD420 by drilling a hole into the frame so I gave a direct shot at it. First time doing this sort of project. Wish me luck! Wouldn't have even tried without your video and info, so thanks again. Any suggestions when putting in the new seal?
@@DavidJones-fk5hg That's actually a great idea! Replacing a shaft seal isn't all too hard actually. Remove the old shaft seal with care: You can either pull the old one out with a hook or even a flat head screw driver, but if that doesn't work you can carefully drive a screw into it the metal casing of the shaft seal. This will allow you to pull on the screw, to then remove shaft seal. When it comes time to install a new one, you want to make sure all surfaces are clean and that you don't have any oil-residue on the outside diameter. You can use a socket or even a few washers to tap it back into place. Make sure the seal is sitting flush with the housing and that's pretty much it. If you need any other parts you can find them under this link: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Fb1OLYj7oSVPt47IWgjH-mbMD9nMg_Nu0NgnjC-wak0/edit This link is in the descritpion of this video and it is always accessable! Let me know if it worked out for you. Regards Andreas
I appreciate your videos very much. I purchased a 1975 JD 300 that was not running, and recently I purchased a JD 317 that was repowered with a 20 HP Onan. I'm rebuilding the hydro pump on the 300 right now. One question, the 2 small bolts that connect the "fixed swash plate", what wrench did you use for those? Mine look like some type of inverted torx head. Thanks again for the helpful videos.
Thank you that means a lot to me! How cool is that, we have the same models! The 317 with a 20hp Onan engine is probably a beast. If I recall correctly, I used a 3/8 - 12 point socket. It was also one of the smallest sockets for a 1/4" drive, because the output shaft is right next to it. One hydro motor I previously rebuilt had an allen wrench bolt, which works just fine too. When you reinstall the bolts, don't forget to add thread loctite (blue) to the bolts. Thank you once more, I will always try to share as much knowledge as I can. Best regards
Excellent demonstration . A quick question. Is there any difference between the two valve plates that are used on this pump. One on the variable piston pump side and another one on the fixed motor side. in case they are mixed up, how do we differentiate them ?? Regards Antony
That's a great question, Antony! I reviewed my footage and at 12:34 you can see me discuss the valve plates and when you look at the valve plates you can see the differences. For reference: The valve plate with two whales (cut-outs) will be designated to the variable piston pump! The valve plate with 4 whales (cut-outs) will be designated to the fixed motor side! This is very important and you would not want to swap them. At 33:04 you will see me install the valve plates and this might give you a better view as well. I hope this helps you out. Best regards
Is it possible to swap the trunnion shafts that go into swash plate so you can install that linkage for forwarding reverse on the opposite side of the unit
Hi Les, this will work if you change the swap the trunnion shafts (forward is still forward and reverse is still reverse). I hope this works out for you. Regards Andreas
I used Permatex Black Silicone Automotive Grade RTV Sealant. I found this to be one of the best silicones out there, but it dries fairly fast! When you assemble the pump, you want to make sure the surfaces around the gasket area are perfectly clean. Since these surfaces are machined, you do not want to apply a thick layer. The best method is to spread a thin layer with your finger. I hope that helps! Best regards
Hi, the links are always in the description of my videos, but you can find it here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Fb1OLYj7oSVPt47IWgjH-mbMD9nMg_Nu0NgnjC-wak0/edit#gid=0 I did not specify the part number for these seals, as they were purchased at an industrial seal dealer. These pumps were found in all types of applications from lawn tractors to skidsteers and all manufacturer have different part number, so it would be hard to list everything. I hope the sizes help you at least. Regards Andreas
Thank you, I always try my best to keep everything clean and visible! The seals and O-rings were bought locally from Hi-Tech Seals. This is an industrial seal supplier and they carry almost every size of seal or o-ring (metric and imperial sizes). In the link below you can find a list of the products I used and maybe you can find an industrial supplier near you. They should be able to find the products I listed since everything is a standard size. I hope that helps! Best regards
Another outstanding video! I asked Sunstrand questions back when you were doing the Diff. Sorry. I will need help from you on this as it is my Sunstrand giving me a leak on my Stock 317. Is there a #1 in this (series) or is this the first (disassembly and removal??)? Are there links to the parts or just descriptions (I looked first and missed the links if there). Thank you again! PS The spread sheet if very informative, but I don't know where or how to purchase seals based on the dimensions. Could you please just provide links to the actual seals you purchased?
Thank you Ben, I appreciate it!! I did not share a disassembly video, as I knew I was going to rebuild the entire motor. The disassembly is usually easier than the assembly, but I hope I could give you the best angles in this video, which may help if you disassemble yours! I'm glad you were able to locate the spreadsheet down below. I bought the o-rings and seals locally at the closest industrial dealer. If you write down or print the spreadsheet any seal/bearing supplier should be able to find you the items I listed. The sizes are based on the dimensions needed for the Sundstrand 15 motor. I double-checked all sizes before I published the spreadsheet, so you shouldn't have any issues. If you need more help, let me know.
hello good video my question is can you move the forward reverse pedal control to other side of hydro. reason i ask i have a massey 1655 my friend has one leg and if it can be done we will for him thanks,
Hi Paul, if you have enough shaft on the left side of the hydro motor, I don‘t see any reason why not. The functionality would be exactly the same! If you‘d need to take apart the hydro motor to flip the shaft, it might not work internally. Just a heads up in case you want to do that. Regards Andreas
That is correct! The 420 and 430 have the same hydraulic motor/pump. The only difference I now of is the inlet shaft. On the 300 series you will have a straight shaft that has a bore for a pin and the 400 series tractors have a splined shaft. There shouldn't be any difference internally, because this 15U assembly is capable of handling anything up to 30hp! I hope this helps.
I have a 317 I bought recently. It has oil in the trans and the shaft seems to ne turning fine. It tried to move and just quit. Any ideas of what I should take a look at. The valves weren't stuck.
Hi Emarionjackson! That's an awesome little garden tractor you picked up. I assume your engine is working just fine and the shaft is powering the input shaft to the hydraulic pump. Is this correct? If your check valves are in the "UP" position and your fluid is topped off, I would check the hydraulic filter. It is possible that your filter collapsed if it's too old or even started to restrict flow. This is the first thing I'd advise you to check and then you can get back to me after you check that. Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild ok I put a new filter on same thing. I won't move the check valves are up. What puzzles me is I let it run for about 15 minutes just playing with the hydrostat lever it tried to go forward but it stop and then it tried to go backwards and stop. What should I check now
Hi there. I'm not exactly sure what this unit weights as I never really looked into that while I had it on the table. Here is a link www.semhidrolik.com.tr/assets/images/PistonluPompalar/pdf/15-Serisi.pdf for technical information about sauer-sundstrand hydraulic motors and pumps. On page 6 it states this assembly weighs 15kg or 33lbs. I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
If you have a screwdriver or a punch that fits into the bore of the shaft, you should be able to turn over the input shaft with ease. if this does not turn freeely or smooth, you might have a worn or damaged shaft or possibly bad bearings. I wouldn't see any other cause. I hope this helps.
Thanks for the recommendation. ATF and ATF type F are very similar. Type F is a higher grade of automatic transmission fluid. This fluid is mainly used in on-road vehicles which have a higher performance rate. The viscosity level needed for the Sundstrand pump/motor varies largely, therefore many different types of fluids can be used. Hydraulic Transmission Oil, Anti-wear Hydraulic Oil, are alternatives as well as some brand specifics. I hope that helps, Best regards
@@stevenmaines9114 That may be a recommendation from John Deere and I agree that Type F fluid is suitable. Many garden tractors like John Deere 300 Series, Simplicity garden tractors, Sunstar, Legacy, Cub Cadet and even so IH garden tractors share the exact same hydraulic motor from Sundstrand Danfoss. It's hard to believe that Sundstrand would recommend JD oil, for all makes and models that carry a Series 15U Pump. Best regards
Hello Les, for this hydraulic motor I do not have a disassembly video. I must have not filmed this process, sorry about that. I hope with this video you will be able to understand the assembled state, which might make it easier for you to disassemble. Thanks for a great question and thanks for viewing!
FYI, working on my 1982 John Deere 317, in regards to the swashplate orientation, I installed it with the 'more material' side to the top of the housing, as you suggested and reverse had the speed of forward, and forward had speed of reverse. Looked into my manual, and it says to install it opposite of what the video shows, 'with the thin pad toward the top of the housing'. Not sure how many others have encountered this, just bringing it up to everyone's attention. Not trying to discount your video, great detail, and really enjoyed watching it, just thought I should mention that.
Same on my 140, thin pad up.
A very good video. My reason for rebuilding this is to address the noise that these pumps make. I wish you would have touched upon that some and in particular the tolerances of the wear plates and pump assembly. As it is, you basically resealed the assembly. Also, as most of us are mechanically inclined, we watch these videos to learn and are not necessarily interested in being entertained with loud music and dancing introductions. Other than that, it was very informative.
Very helpful video but just as a heads up to the other folks who are watching this for specs....Measure your own bearing dimensions. My JD 430 has the same basic pump but with a 0.750 shaft instead but does measure the same on the swashplate pivot seals. Ended up with CR 7443 seals for the larger shaft and CR 6763 seals for the swashplate pivot seals. Thanks again for posting a well made vijeo!
Thank you for tuning in and thank you for your comment! I would assume there are bigger bearings and seals due to a larger input and output shaft. This might be due to the diesel engine that produces around 20HP and about 45 NM of torque. Your information will be valuable to those that are in need of other bearings & seals. Cheers
Regards Andreas
thanks was having prolems spv 15 on a case 1818 skid steer the the slippers have worn out after waching you going to strip it down and have a go thanks from scotland
When one has problems, there are always solutions! I'm glad I could encourage you to fix your hydraulic motor and I hope you can get your handy 1818 Case skid steer back up and running! Best regards from Canada
Absolutely great instructional video. Details were perfect!
Thank you very much Terry! I tried my best to show and explain every part within this hydraulic motor and pump assembly. I hope you'll have success if you ever need to work on your Sundstrand. Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild Thank YOU!
The Sundstrand U pumps are a very robust design and are still being manufactured to this day. They've been in production for over 50 years. I took one apart a few years ago, it's really neat to see how they work. I think Sundstrand/Sauer Danfoss gives them a 5,000 hour service life, but they basically last forever.
I fully agree, they are very very robust! The design is very simple and it gives the operator a smooth ride. I hope you learnt something, because I sure did! 5000 operating hours is fantastic and that's why these pumps are literally everywhere. I might have to dig into my Bolens rear-end (Sundstrand inline pump) because it's been acting up. I did not touch it when I rebuilt the tractor...but maybe I should have! Cheers
Danfoss (Sunstrand) does not produce the Series 15 line of pumps, motors, and transmissions any more. Thankfully service rights have been sold to QCC out of Illinois.
I just rebuilt mine wich is the same one your rebuilding in the video except mines middle 80s year model, I tried everything I tried turning the charge pump 180 degrees thinking I had it on the wrong way, I tried pouring some (hytran) down the 2 pressure relive valves and I get no forward or reverse.. I watched your video so I knew I put it together right
Hello Blane! I‘m sorry to hear that you are experiencing issues with your hydraulic pump!
What exactly does not work?
If you do not have lift capabilities, then it is your charge pump (front cover plate with RH/LH).
If you forward/reverse does not work, then it is your hydraulic pump section. There are many small components within this pump and you must get everything right. The hydraulic pump and motor have very similar parts, but the must be kept on the right side.
For instance if you switched the swash plates, then you will not have the correct flow...
There are many things that can be misplaced or flipped. Let me know what you find out.
Regards Andreas
Watching the installation of the roll pins in the variable swash plate I couldnt help wondering how they were removed. I imagine they were drilled to remove them? Or are there access plugs in the case to drive them out? Excellent tutorial.
That's a great question! The bottom half of the housing has two reliefs on either side of the swashplate. Since the variable swashplate is held onto each shaft with two roll pins, there is enough room to punch them out. Each pin is 5/8" in length and both pins must be removed to dismantle this assembly. If someone installs a longer rollpin, it would have to be drilled out. Hopefully this does not happen, as one could damage the bore once it's drilled and there might be more to fix. I hope that helps & Best regards Andreas
I want understand this very carefully you have to drive both pins all the way through or does one stay inside the shaft
@@lesdickinson3785 When removing the trunnion shafts, one pin will be in the swash plate and the other in the shaft. Driving the pins from the top a prescribed depth so the parting line between the 2 pins lands 1 in the swash plate and the other in the shaft. On mine there is only 1/2" of clearance between the housing and swash plate. You might be able to drive out a 5/8" long pin if the plate is angled to the forward position.
Thanks for the video. I have a 317 and it ran and moved really good. Then one day mowing across the yard it just stopped moving. I don’t know anything about a hydrostatic but getting a lot of ideas to check on. Thanks
You're more than welcome! 317's are great little machines and with proper maintenance you'll have a good tractor for many years to come! I'm sorry to hear that you rear-end quit on you!! The first thing I would check is your fluid level (sight tube in the back) and you oil-filter. It's possible that there is not enough fluid or fluid flow to create enough pressure within the system. This will not allow your motor/pump to provide any power to the transmission. I hope this helps and if you have any others questions feel free to ask. Best regards -Andreas
I just changed the filter. I’m almost positive I’ve got an issue with the pop up valves for the free wheel. But still researching other option. I’m going to drive into your content log the breakdown of this transmission. Thanks for what you do and congratulations on your channel
Well done. I was wondering if there is a way to determine if the charge pump is within spec. Thanks.
Hi James, I didn't find a service manual that shows the clearances needed for the charge pump. Maybe if you reach out to Danfoss with your hydraulic motor model and serial number they can send you the correct manual free of charge.
Another way you can check your charge pump is to check your system pressure. You can hook up a manometer to your auxiliary lines and active the hand-lever. If your pressure is within spec, then there shouldn't be anything wrong with your charge pump.
I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
Nice job
Thanks a lot! I hope this comes in handy for you. Best regards
I dont think you showed it but I might have missed it. How did you do the seal for the swash plate that goes to the drive linkage? Got a 1978 John Deere 312 I need to change that seal on.
There are two seals left & right. They are both the same size and they are lip-seals. In the link below you can find the exact seal size and they are called "Trunnion Shaft Seals". The trunnion shaft is connected to the swashplate which activates your forward & reverse. I hope that helps and if you have any other questions, feel free to ask. Best regards
Hello again friend, would you know a part number for the trunnion seal? Your help is greatly appreciated.
Hi there, I had a quick look online and found "CR 6763 Shaft Seal" should fit just fine. The Inside diameter for the trunnion seal is in the link in the description, but here it is for your convenience:
0.688 in Shaft Dia., 1.187 in OD, 0.188 in Overall Width
I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild you are a treasure!
@DavidJones-fk5hg I‘m glad I can help! Cheers 😊👍🏽
@WorkshopRebuild Well, i'm gonna try to replace this seal while it's on the JD420 by drilling a hole into the frame so I gave a direct shot at it. First time doing this sort of project. Wish me luck! Wouldn't have even tried without your video and info, so thanks again. Any suggestions when putting in the new seal?
@@DavidJones-fk5hg That's actually a great idea! Replacing a shaft seal isn't all too hard actually. Remove the old shaft seal with care: You can either pull the old one out with a hook or even a flat head screw driver, but if that doesn't work you can carefully drive a screw into it the metal casing of the shaft seal. This will allow you to pull on the screw, to then remove shaft seal.
When it comes time to install a new one, you want to make sure all surfaces are clean and that you don't have any oil-residue on the outside diameter. You can use a socket or even a few washers to tap it back into place. Make sure the seal is sitting flush with the housing and that's pretty much it.
If you need any other parts you can find them under this link: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Fb1OLYj7oSVPt47IWgjH-mbMD9nMg_Nu0NgnjC-wak0/edit
This link is in the descritpion of this video and it is always accessable! Let me know if it worked out for you. Regards Andreas
what exactly is the filing paper you used for the case gasket?
I appreciate your videos very much. I purchased a 1975 JD 300 that was not running, and recently I purchased a JD 317 that was repowered with a 20 HP Onan. I'm rebuilding the hydro pump on the 300 right now. One question, the 2 small bolts that connect the "fixed swash plate", what wrench did you use for those? Mine look like some type of inverted torx head. Thanks again for the helpful videos.
Thank you that means a lot to me! How cool is that, we have the same models! The 317 with a 20hp Onan engine is probably a beast. If I recall correctly, I used a 3/8 - 12 point socket. It was also one of the smallest sockets for a 1/4" drive, because the output shaft is right next to it. One hydro motor I previously rebuilt had an allen wrench bolt, which works just fine too. When you reinstall the bolts, don't forget to add thread loctite (blue) to the bolts. Thank you once more, I will always try to share as much knowledge as I can. Best regards
Excellent demonstration . A quick question. Is there any difference between the two valve plates that are used on this pump. One on the variable piston pump side and another one on the fixed motor side. in case they are mixed up, how do we differentiate them ?? Regards Antony
That's a great question, Antony! I reviewed my footage and at 12:34 you can see me discuss the valve plates and when you look at the valve plates you can see the differences.
For reference: The valve plate with two whales (cut-outs) will be designated to the variable piston pump!
The valve plate with 4 whales (cut-outs) will be designated to the fixed motor side!
This is very important and you would not want to swap them.
At 33:04 you will see me install the valve plates and this might give you a better view as well.
I hope this helps you out. Best regards
Is it possible to swap the trunnion shafts that go into swash plate so you can install that linkage for forwarding reverse on the opposite side of the unit
Hi Les, this will work if you change the swap the trunnion shafts (forward is still forward and reverse is still reverse). I hope this works out for you. Regards Andreas
Yes very good all I want to do is put the linkage on the other side
Great video! Can you come south a bit a fix my leak? Haha
Thanks a lot, I appreciate it! Let‘s meet in the middle 😁👍🏽
Does anyone know the sizes of the o rings on the outside of valve and any info on the Teflon backup washer?
What silicone did you use to put the gasket on? I’m replacing the 2 middle gaskets on my Sundstrand 15 inline pump for my Bolens HT-20.
I used Permatex Black Silicone Automotive Grade RTV Sealant. I found this to be one of the best silicones out there, but it dries fairly fast! When you assemble the pump, you want to make sure the surfaces around the gasket area are perfectly clean. Since these surfaces are machined, you do not want to apply a thick layer. The best method is to spread a thin layer with your finger. I hope that helps! Best regards
Not finding the link to part # of seals used.
Hi, the links are always in the description of my videos, but you can find it here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Fb1OLYj7oSVPt47IWgjH-mbMD9nMg_Nu0NgnjC-wak0/edit#gid=0
I did not specify the part number for these seals, as they were purchased at an industrial seal dealer. These pumps were found in all types of applications from lawn tractors to skidsteers and all manufacturer have different part number, so it would be hard to list everything. I hope the sizes help you at least. Regards Andreas
Hello, thank you for making such a nice video. Where did you buy your seals and orings from?
Thank you, I always try my best to keep everything clean and visible! The seals and O-rings were bought locally from Hi-Tech Seals. This is an industrial seal supplier and they carry almost every size of seal or o-ring (metric and imperial sizes). In the link below you can find a list of the products I used and maybe you can find an industrial supplier near you. They should be able to find the products I listed since everything is a standard size. I hope that helps! Best regards
@@WorkshopRebuild Awesome, I will check around for a local shop. Thanks.
Another outstanding video! I asked Sunstrand questions back when you were doing the Diff. Sorry. I will need help from you on this as it is my Sunstrand giving me a leak on my Stock 317. Is there a #1 in this (series) or is this the first (disassembly and removal??)? Are there links to the parts or just descriptions (I looked first and missed the links if there). Thank you again!
PS The spread sheet if very informative, but I don't know where or how to purchase seals based on the dimensions. Could you please just provide links to the actual seals you purchased?
Thank you Ben, I appreciate it!! I did not share a disassembly video, as I knew I was going to rebuild the entire motor. The disassembly is usually easier than the assembly, but I hope I could give you the best angles in this video, which may help if you disassemble yours!
I'm glad you were able to locate the spreadsheet down below. I bought the o-rings and seals locally at the closest industrial dealer. If you write down or print the spreadsheet any seal/bearing supplier should be able to find you the items I listed. The sizes are based on the dimensions needed for the Sundstrand 15 motor. I double-checked all sizes before I published the spreadsheet, so you shouldn't have any issues.
If you need more help, let me know.
You and my self both have a jd 317 does it have the u-pump? also nice video!
Yes, that is correct. The 317 shares the same u-pump as the John Deere 300. Best regards
@@WorkshopRebuild ok thanks!
hello good video my question is can you move the forward reverse pedal control to other side of hydro. reason i ask i have a massey 1655 my friend has one leg and if it can be done we will for him thanks,
Hi Paul, if you have enough shaft on the left side of the hydro motor, I don‘t see any reason why not. The functionality would be exactly the same!
If you‘d need to take apart the hydro motor to flip the shaft, it might not work internally. Just a heads up in case you want to do that.
Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild thank you we will give it a long thought thank a lot
I believe that the 300 series and 420/430 units from John Deere used the same Sundstrand 15U pump. Can anyone confirm that?
That is correct! The 420 and 430 have the same hydraulic motor/pump. The only difference I now of is the inlet shaft. On the 300 series you will have a straight shaft that has a bore for a pin and the 400 series tractors have a splined shaft. There shouldn't be any difference internally, because this 15U assembly is capable of handling anything up to 30hp! I hope this helps.
@@WorkshopRebuild Cool. are the seals for these shafts the same ones on the 300 vs the 420/430 tractors? is hi-tech seals a CDN outfit?
I have a 317 I bought recently. It has oil in the trans and the shaft seems to ne turning fine. It tried to move and just quit. Any ideas of what I should take a look at. The valves weren't stuck.
Hi Emarionjackson! That's an awesome little garden tractor you picked up. I assume your engine is working just fine and the shaft is powering the input shaft to the hydraulic pump. Is this correct?
If your check valves are in the "UP" position and your fluid is topped off, I would check the hydraulic filter. It is possible that your filter collapsed if it's too old or even started to restrict flow. This is the first thing I'd advise you to check and then you can get back to me after you check that.
Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild ok I put a new filter on same thing. I won't move the check valves are up. What puzzles me is I let it run for about 15 minutes just playing with the hydrostat lever it tried to go forward but it stop and then it tried to go backwards and stop. What should I check now
@@emarionjackson
Hello. Do you know how much this unit weighs on the machine?
Hi there. I'm not exactly sure what this unit weights as I never really looked into that while I had it on the table. Here is a link www.semhidrolik.com.tr/assets/images/PistonluPompalar/pdf/15-Serisi.pdf for technical information about sauer-sundstrand hydraulic motors and pumps. On page 6 it states this assembly weighs 15kg or 33lbs. I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
Thank you!
@@DavidJones-fk5hg You're welcome!
How hard should it be to turn the input shaft of one of these still connected to the tractor with the engine drive haft disconnected?
If you have a screwdriver or a punch that fits into the bore of the shaft, you should be able to turn over the input shaft with ease. if this does not turn freeely or smooth, you might have a worn or damaged shaft or possibly bad bearings. I wouldn't see any other cause. I hope this helps.
Should be useing type f trans fluid not auto
Thanks for the recommendation. ATF and ATF type F are very similar. Type F is a higher grade of automatic transmission fluid. This fluid is mainly used in on-road vehicles which have a higher performance rate. The viscosity level needed for the Sundstrand pump/motor varies largely, therefore many different types of fluids can be used. Hydraulic Transmission Oil, Anti-wear Hydraulic Oil, are alternatives as well as some brand specifics. I hope that helps, Best regards
@@WorkshopRebuild john deere wants type f in there trans or hyguad from deere ... Ull have isses if. U dont. Use. It .
@@stevenmaines9114 That may be a recommendation from John Deere and I agree that Type F fluid is suitable. Many garden tractors like John Deere 300 Series, Simplicity garden tractors, Sunstar, Legacy, Cub Cadet and even so IH garden tractors share the exact same hydraulic motor from Sundstrand Danfoss. It's hard to believe that Sundstrand would recommend JD oil, for all makes and models that carry a Series 15U Pump. Best regards
@@WorkshopRebuild they want type f in there pumps . Ull burn them up... I have 140 john deere . Manual says type f only ..
I want to see part one and two how do I get that
Hello Les, for this hydraulic motor I do not have a disassembly video. I must have not filmed this process, sorry about that.
I hope with this video you will be able to understand the assembled state, which might make it easier for you to disassemble.
Thanks for a great question and thanks for viewing!