You saw "cast iron" and "welding". I am still waiting for the cast iron. He welded that as if he wanted to get home early. He touched the molten pool with the tungsten just before he laid it on it's side. Then he TRIED to melt out the porosity. Did you see the sparks fly. He should have ground it out before finishing . I have no idea what filler rod he used, but it looked a bronze type. I think the piston may have been cast steel, which is why he could weld it the way he did. Should have used stainless steel filler wire, though.
reminds me of a story about a ship's engine with a broken piston top.. they were far from port..but had a well equipped engine room with a lathe..the chief wondered how they would affect a repair as he made himself a coffee...looking at the oil stove gave him an idea he "chucked up " the piston in the lathe and cut the broken top out leaving as much as he could around the edges he the turned one of the cast iron stove lids down just enough that when the piston was heated and the lid cooled the two fell together in a perfect marriage he said it got them home and to his knowledge was never changed...
He cut into that piston with a cutoff wheel like a bad ass. He surely has done this type of work before and probably many times. Nice job! That's a real welder.
Yeah I was thinking the same. You're really free handing the cutout with an angle grinder outside in your yard? You're either a moron or a special breed of pro, turns out it was the latter. Awesome video.
I've done quite a bit of TIG welding of cast iron. I prefer nickel 99 TIG wire. A lot of good welders like brazing cast iron, though. They usually use a torch. A little pre heat and slow cooling seems to help.
Why the negativity in some posts.. This a very difficult repair that is carefully and expertly carried out. In most places this would be death of part failure, here, made to live another day.
Jennifer WhiteWolf I feel like he did an amazing job except for the last 10%. I feel that it would have been very easy for him to fill all those pin holes in especially with Tig.
tig needs the cleanest surfaces - he should have cleaned the area. Sanding, blasting, ... and in the end with aceton. Also clean the bead after each torch turn off. you also have to preheat the thing seems kind of crappy tig work.
lol there is nothing clean about cast.... Someone needs to go back to school or try a weld repair like this for themselves otherwise your comment does not hold any weight.
I have done this myself, I would have done a more thourough cleaning, Then placed it in my oven and pre heated it to 550f over four hours. Kept there over night. After welding replace in oven over night to reduce stress. I would have used my needle gun on the weld before using the hammer also to remove stresses. It works for me. ChiefD
That was a pleasure to watch, thank you. This weld is going to get a beating with high compression and with the heating and cooling cycles I am really curious how well it holds up.
Difficult weld at the best of times, but I wouldn't have tig welded that. I've always welded cast iron with standard arc welders using suitable rods. Before welding the item is groved as necessary and heated to a very high temperature, somewhat less than red. The weld is hammered in the same way to stress relieve, then cooled as slowly as possible. I've welded several vises that have broken at the neck very successfully with this method. It is necessary that the item be made of decent quality cast iron.
i dont mean to be off topic but does anyone know of a trick to get back into an instagram account? I somehow forgot the password. I would love any tricks you can give me.
@Jaden Coleman i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process now. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
That is a hard weld to make! That piston top is so impregnated with extra carbon from being in high heat application where soot is produced from burning fossil fuel. That trash boiling out of that piston top will make it fight any filler metal flowing onto it.
TIG weld steel straps on the cam towers for additional strength for bigger camshafts, no preheat. Weld 1 inch then go to furthest tower and weld 1 inch. The idea is to let things cool off before going back to 1st weld. It's closer to TIG brazing than actual welding as the head doesn't actually melt, just "sweats".
Schöner Nasenkolben! ob das die Wärmespannungen später dauerhaft aushält und mitmacht ist bei Krümmern auch oft ein Problem schön geschweißt und reißt dann gern wieder ein
Peening is a nice trick :o) I need to get into that sort of weld relief. Although, mag-ally seems to be my thing at the moment. Let the ally rod blob down into the surface and then work it in before the magnesium gets angry and leaves the party.
Soo many internet welders that have never even picked up a torch...First off, Its a 12-50hp engine...there wont be too much stress on this piston. Also, he using aluminum bronze filler which means hes brazing not welding...His goal was to eliminate the crack so it wouldn't spread and fill in the crater he made doing so. Which is why hes brazing in aluminum bronze. Its not a structural repair, that's why there wasn't too much of a need to preheat. It could have been done cleaner and better, but this will do the job just fine for its intended purpose.
Weil ich schon schlechte Erfahrungen mit massigen Teilen gemacht habe hätte ich den Kolben auf min. 200 Grad vorgewärmt. Aber er wird das nicht das erste Mal machen.
This is usually true. A bit of preheat won't do any harm. Just remember that "cast iron" includes many grades. Some are easily weldable with minimal prep and common fillers. Some cannot be fusion welded and will require brazing or silver solder to be repaired or joined.
We used to re-crown pistons for ships and we had to heat them in the furnace for hours then put on our insulated gloves and turn the mig wide open and basically spray arc them. Even with the insulated bunker gloves we would still get huge water blisters on the toos of our hands, sucked but had to be done. Cool video.
Not badly done, But I think I would have taken out a larger area, I suspect some of the area around the fix is going to fail . I would have ground down all of the orange peel areas and used a light acid to see if I was into good metal or not. Then tig the snot outta it/grind /flap wheel it all out .
Interesting and cool. Im sure no problem, like the man said another 1000 hrs replace, its not like a motorcycle piston, that is aluminum or zinc, that's iron, more forgiving.
Under inspection I’m shore piston is heat warped out of specs, and visually you can see impurities from the main surface and pin holes. This means trap air and impurities under the weld. It’s Going to crack over time.
Meine Güte was seid ihr doch alle krümelkacker.lasst doch den Mann seinen Kolben schweißen so wie er es für richtig hält?Der macht das bestimmt nicht zum ersten Mal und wenn dann hat er doch den Schaden und nicht ihr Besserwisser!
An sich hast du recht. Aber anscheinend auch keine Ahnung. Wenn man Guss schweißen will muss man es Spannungsarm glühen und es wird bei ungefähr 200 Grad Materialtemperatur geschweißt UND auch NICHT mit WIG sondern immer Autogen. Das was dieser Herr da im Video macht ist total falsch. Das hält auch bloß von morgens bis mittags.
@@Nordmanntanne96 Da hast du recht, Ahnung vom Gussschweißen habe ich nicht wirklich, habe ich erst ein Mal gemacht. Aber Do it yourself finde ich immer gut. Danke für die ausgiebige Info, denn das mit dem Glühen wusste ich gar nicht 😊👍
I have had much better results by preheating the cast before welding and using a air chisel for shot peaning to help relieve the stress. Not a bad job 👍
I'm curious too. So no end of crack drilling. Brazing cast iron which you can do. But how is that low melting point bronze going to hold up to the high heat in the cylinder with at least 23 to 1 compression? That is what I am curious about. Not the craftsmanship.
Better him than me damn I spent an hour after our building aluminum rails back up that were silicone and oil impregnated not something that I like doing nasty smoke stinky yeah miserable
I dont know if he did preheat, but he didnt do post-weld cooling procedure....he stopped welding and then started grinding right away...And people there say, we are haters who say fancy shit
To answer the question.. YES! To minimize problems due to stress you must A Pre-Heat over hours, do the repair and then Re-Heat it up to say five hundred hold that for a few hours an then Reduce the temp fifty degrees per hr till you can remove it by hand. It’s little over kill maybe, but it’s always worked for me and my Grandad he was an old school Blacksmith coke forge anvil the works. I was in the Seabees for twenty Five years, you hang around Battalions, CBU’s, and NCTC’s long enough you learn just about everything you need. ChiefD
Why is there such a big difference in the material where you weld and the casting? Looks like your weld doesnt blend properly? its 5 years since i welded last and we usually welded aluminium so im not experienced in this? Why the coloring difference?
no preheat? you waited for it to cooldown? Like small welds technique? What was the additive metal? looks more like brazing then welding with high nickel content rod?
Great job in saving that part that is now probably irreplaceable but one thing i wanted to say is not to have a cigarette lighter near your welding work why your welding its downright dangerous and i have heard of a welder that was killed from a cigarette lighter exploding in his front shirt pocket after a hot weld specksle had landed on it pleased "BE WARNED" accidents have happened otherwise keep up the great effort of keeping those old tractors alive and they will still be going well and truly after all todays new junk will be on the scrapheap.
@@BigBoss-em3bz ну возьми и загугли Lanz Bulldog, древний трактор с одноцилиндровым двухтактным нефтяным двигателем, также керосиновый двигатель, двигатель с калильной головкой, калоризаторный двигатель, полудизель
@@РустемРустем-ч3я Верное замечание , но , видимо , это делается больше для демонстрации возможности ремонта и вряд-ли этот поршень будет установлен на рабочий двигатель . Хотя , чем черт не шутит ...
That's some premo pitting you got going on there. Personally, I would have touched up the cut with a diamond tip and a die grinder, so there was a smother surface to wield to. I am wondering though. On a piece like this, would he have pre-heated it?
what kind of rod are u using to fill the crack?? how come u have not pre-heated the piston before u start to fill the crack with metal?? shouldn't you have put drill stop holes at the end of the cracks to try and prevent the cracks from continuing??
Should have drilled out the end of crack first. This is TIG brazing not welding. He used a bronze rod because it has give while the cast iron does not. This prevents the cast iron from cracking again. No if he used a nickel rod it would of been welding. Nickel also does what bronze does, has give to prevent the cast iron from cracking.
Appears no preheat and die grind shaping radices looks like a nickel base filler rod good AC I hope no die grind after passes it's a must to do check temp 450° or so finish grind fill any perocity put back in Kool down oven .Then hope!.
actually i did weld it a few times mostly the car Spindles with stick electrode and when i preheated and post heated it it was great but i had the option to preheat with oxy acethylene and then throw it into the owen after the welding. I think the preheat was not introduced because of the size here.
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm a simple man. I see "cast iron" and "welding " in one sentence I click like button.
You saw "cast iron" and "welding". I am still waiting for the cast iron. He welded that as if he wanted to get home early. He touched the molten pool with the tungsten just before he laid it on it's side. Then he TRIED to melt out the porosity. Did you see the sparks fly. He should have ground it out before finishing . I have no idea what filler rod he used, but it looked a bronze type. I think the piston may have been cast steel, which is why he could weld it the way he did. Should have used stainless steel filler wire, though.
@@derekhaydon4656 make a video and show us all how it’s done
reminds me of a story about a ship's engine with a broken piston top.. they were far from port..but had a well equipped engine room with a lathe..the chief wondered how they would affect a repair as he made himself a coffee...looking at the oil stove gave him an idea he "chucked up " the piston in the lathe and cut the broken top out leaving as much as he could around the edges he the turned one of the cast iron stove lids down just enough that
when the piston was heated and the lid cooled the two fell together in a perfect marriage he said it got them home and to his knowledge was never changed...
I have been welding near 50 years..and must say that was a excellent fix...
Yep
He cut into that piston with a cutoff wheel like a bad ass. He surely has done this type of work before and probably many times. Nice job! That's a real welder.
Yeah I was thinking the same. You're really free handing the cutout with an angle grinder outside in your yard? You're either a moron or a special breed of pro, turns out it was the latter. Awesome video.
I've done quite a bit of TIG welding of cast iron. I prefer nickel 99 TIG wire. A lot of good welders like brazing cast iron, though. They usually use a torch. A little pre heat and slow cooling seems to help.
That is a massive piston. Lanz Bulldog is another one of my favorite tractors along with International Harvester Cub Cadet and Cub Lo-Boy
Why the negativity in some posts.. This a very difficult repair that is carefully and expertly carried out. In most places this would be death of part failure, here, made to live another day.
Jennifer WhiteWolf I feel like he did an amazing job except for the last 10%. I feel that it would have been very easy for him to fill all those pin holes in especially with Tig.
tig needs the cleanest surfaces - he should have cleaned the area. Sanding, blasting, ... and in the end with aceton.
Also clean the bead after each torch turn off.
you also have to preheat the thing
seems kind of crappy tig work.
lol there is nothing clean about cast.... Someone needs to go back to school or try a weld repair like this for themselves otherwise your comment does not hold any weight.
Well it was a braze...
I have done this myself, I would have done a more thourough cleaning, Then placed it in my oven and pre heated it to 550f over four hours. Kept there over night. After welding replace in oven over night to reduce stress. I would have used my needle gun on the weld before using the hammer also to remove stresses. It works for me. ChiefD
Love the Chopin in the background makes it so ominous.
That was a pleasure to watch, thank you. This weld is going to get a beating with high compression and with the heating and cooling cycles I am really curious how well it holds up.
My grandfather is 79 yo and still craving about the bulldog he drove to the scrapyard in the late 50s
I would like to have seen the teardown and rebuild of the engine also . That was one heck of a repair 👍👍🇺🇸
Lanz bulldogs are old two stroke single cylinder hot bulb engine powered tractors, repair probably not that hard
Ahh Chopin's Funeral March.... and you are playing it all the way through... I LOVE IT.
Wahnsinn, das weiß aber einer was er macht! Super Arbeit! Respekt! 👌🏼
Difficult weld at the best of times, but I wouldn't have tig welded that. I've always welded cast iron with standard arc welders using suitable rods. Before welding the item is groved as necessary and heated to a very high temperature, somewhat less than red. The weld is hammered in the same way to stress relieve, then cooled as slowly as possible. I've welded several vises that have broken at the neck very successfully with this method. It is necessary that the item be made of decent quality cast iron.
Interesting, what rods would you suggest, as I am about to embark on a repair to my cast iron wood burner?
Got this reccomended after watching the visio race video on big single cylinder engines
when the hammer sped up I did my woody wood pecker imitation in my living room,I never knew how much my wife hated cartoon characters till now
I thought my diesel engine was over built wow look at that old tractors piston. Great job.
When he holds on to the guard on that grinder gives me chills. My Buddy almost cut his thumb off like that.
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I somehow forgot the password. I would love any tricks you can give me.
@Nicholas Brentley Instablaster :)
@Jaden Coleman i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process now.
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@Nicholas Brentley Glad I could help :)
Thumbs up to yay. You did a better job of repair with your grinder than I could have with a milling machine.Very niceRon in Ohio usa
Hi im from south africa and do similar tig repairs...i think you did an excellent job sir👍👍👍
Whats the filler rod?
A beautiful welding job accomplished. I envy you're talent.
Good for another 50 years. Excellent welding job. Thanks for sharing this.
Its not. Apparently.
some blind people following the sheeple herd :D
@@rixogtr why
Zemzem Dağdelen watch it again and think
@@rixogtr if you wont explain your words then dont say anything this is internet
That is a hard weld to make! That piston top is so impregnated with extra carbon from being in high heat application where soot is produced from burning fossil fuel. That trash boiling out of that piston top will make it fight any filler metal flowing onto it.
instead of silicon bronze he should use aluminum bronze with ac to cook out the trash..
I use silicon bronze on cast iron Pinto heads.
do they hold? With or without preheat?
TIG weld steel straps on the cam towers for additional strength for bigger camshafts, no preheat. Weld 1 inch then go to furthest tower and weld 1 inch. The idea is to let things cool off before going back to 1st weld. It's closer to TIG brazing than actual welding as the head doesn't actually melt, just "sweats".
Great video, music which seemed to suit the task rather well. I am curious to know of any pre and post heat treatment used?
Schöner Nasenkolben! ob das die Wärmespannungen später dauerhaft aushält und mitmacht ist bei Krümmern auch oft ein Problem schön geschweißt und reißt dann gern wieder ein
Peening is a nice trick :o) I need to get into that sort of weld relief. Although, mag-ally seems to be my thing at the moment. Let the ally rod blob down into the surface and then work it in before the magnesium gets angry and leaves the party.
Peening the metal to minimize stress cracking.
Peening lol 😉
@@speedy-cc that's the correct term .
Soo many internet welders that have never even picked up a torch...First off, Its a 12-50hp engine...there wont be too much stress on this piston. Also, he using aluminum bronze filler which means hes brazing not welding...His goal was to eliminate the crack so it wouldn't spread and fill in the crater he made doing so. Which is why hes brazing in aluminum bronze. Its not a structural repair, that's why there wasn't too much of a need to preheat. It could have been done cleaner and better, but this will do the job just fine for its intended purpose.
Oh boy do I wanna see that Lanz it belongs to.
I also only weld while wearing my Top Gun Jacket! LOL I Love it!!!
😂😂😂👍
It would be great to be able to see the puddle.
Yes i was hoping to see the puddle aswell
well that's what i'm calling a piston!!
Right do they even make pistons like that anymore
It's a 1 cylinder 10L motor
@@zacharyp10 Its a 2 stroke unit, you shouldnt forget
Weil ich schon schlechte Erfahrungen mit massigen Teilen gemacht habe hätte ich den Kolben auf min. 200 Grad vorgewärmt. Aber er wird das nicht das erste Mal machen.
Drill the crack ends to stop it creeping?
I am not a welder, but wouldn't it be better to heat the Piston with charcoal before welding to avoid embrittlement of the HAZ?
The fact that it’s cast and it came out that good astonished me
what's the purpose of the weird shaped top of the cylinder?
I am wondering what filler material did you use?? Thank you Kevin
And I always thought you had to heat cast iron up to weld it, learn something new every day.
This is usually true. A bit of preheat won't do any harm. Just remember that "cast iron" includes many grades. Some are easily weldable with minimal prep and common fillers. Some cannot be fusion welded and will require brazing or silver solder to be repaired or joined.
We used to re-crown pistons for ships and we had to heat them in the furnace for hours then put on our insulated gloves and turn the mig wide open and basically spray arc them. Even with the insulated bunker gloves we would still get huge water blisters on the toos of our hands, sucked but had to be done. Cool video.
Look at the filler color as he peens... it's a bronze braze
Not badly done, But I think I would have taken out a larger area, I suspect some of the area around the fix is going to fail . I would have ground down all of the orange peel areas and used a light acid to see if I was into good metal or not. Then tig the snot outta it/grind /flap wheel it all out
.
Interesting and cool. Im sure no problem, like the man said another 1000 hrs replace, its not like a motorcycle piston, that is aluminum or zinc, that's iron, more forgiving.
Gute Arbeit mit dieser Pistongen.
Under inspection I’m shore piston is heat warped out of specs, and visually you can see impurities from the main surface and pin holes. This means trap air and impurities under the weld. It’s Going to crack over time.
It's a frikin Lanz bulldog piston mate. The gap between zylinder and wall is almost a millimeter by factory.. There's not much spec to this after all
Will this fit in my Honda?
+krap101 it will
maybe if you take back seats out
Put Honda engine inside the piston add wheels and drive it arround.
krap101 no it wont!
its bigger than your Honda.
looks like aluminum bronze filler rod with some awesome tig techniques
Meine Güte was seid ihr doch alle krümelkacker.lasst doch den Mann seinen Kolben schweißen so wie er es für richtig hält?Der macht das bestimmt nicht zum ersten Mal und wenn dann hat er doch den Schaden und nicht ihr Besserwisser!
Genau!
Gut gemacht.Vielleicht hätte man den Kolben auf einer Herdplatte aufwärmen sollen?
Alle haben gesagt, dass geht nicht. Dann kam einer, der wusste das nicht und hat es einfach gemacht.
Guss schweißen muss man auch erstmal können, also Respekt👍👍👍
Gutes video
An sich hast du recht. Aber anscheinend auch keine Ahnung. Wenn man Guss schweißen will muss man es Spannungsarm glühen und es wird bei ungefähr 200 Grad Materialtemperatur geschweißt UND auch NICHT mit WIG sondern immer Autogen.
Das was dieser Herr da im Video macht ist total falsch. Das hält auch bloß von morgens bis mittags.
@@Nordmanntanne96 Da hast du recht, Ahnung vom Gussschweißen habe ich nicht wirklich, habe ich erst ein Mal gemacht. Aber Do it yourself finde ich immer gut. Danke für die ausgiebige Info, denn das mit dem Glühen wusste ich gar nicht 😊👍
I have had much better results by preheating the cast before welding and using a air chisel for shot peaning to help relieve the stress. Not a bad job 👍
Why the death march music for such a life giving experience?
I'm curious too. So no end of crack drilling. Brazing cast iron which you can do. But how is that low melting point bronze going to hold up to the high heat in the cylinder with at least 23 to 1 compression? That is what I am curious about. Not the craftsmanship.
I love the chipping out the crack method. I do the same thing on Alloy 40 HF repairs
😯 heard about this but never seen it done until now
Silicone bronze? Preheat, Post heat?
Silicone?
There was no hole drilled at the beginning and end of the crack it will happen again . That's a lot of work to have happen again .
Better him than me damn I spent an hour after our building aluminum rails back up that were silicone and oil impregnated not something that I like doing nasty smoke stinky yeah miserable
Would you heat the piston to 400'F before welding it and heat afterwards?
I dont know if he did preheat, but he didnt do post-weld cooling procedure....he stopped welding and then started grinding right away...And people there say, we are haters who say fancy shit
To answer the question.. YES! To minimize problems due to stress you must A Pre-Heat over hours, do the repair and then Re-Heat it up to say five hundred hold that for a few hours an then Reduce the temp fifty degrees per hr till you can remove it by hand. It’s little over kill maybe, but it’s always worked for me and my
Grandad he was an old school Blacksmith coke forge anvil the works. I was in the Seabees for twenty Five years, you hang around Battalions, CBU’s, and NCTC’s long enough you learn just about everything you need. ChiefD
very nice video. it would be great if you could show us actual torch work with covering camera lens with protective glass...
It also would be great for the camera.... :P
Why is there such a big difference in the material where you weld and the casting?
Looks like your weld doesnt blend properly? its 5 years since i welded last and we usually welded aluminium so im not experienced in this?
Why the coloring difference?
but can you do it with Elektrodenschweissgerät ? 😂
This were the tractors that had almost a kilogramo of gold in the internals of the engine?
Ur work is undefeated , where is the Ur hand gloves
That's exactly what I want inside my corolla
I have one question. Why Choppin's funeral march😂?
Hope that piece wont fell off
cast iron piston? thats one heavy piston. wonder if Mahle has made a aluminum piston in stock for these ;)
And that weld will has the same thermal expand index as the piston?
No but it's that or nothing when those pistons arent made anymore
Hey that’s a nice jacket dude, l would totally use it to ride my bike... (which l don’t have) 😰🤷🏽♂️ 🏍
no preheat? you waited for it to cooldown? Like small welds technique? What was the additive metal? looks more like brazing then welding with high nickel content rod?
Great job in saving that part that is now probably irreplaceable but one thing i wanted to say is not to have a cigarette lighter near your welding work why your welding its downright dangerous and i have heard of a welder that was killed from a cigarette lighter exploding in his front shirt pocket after a hot weld specksle had landed on it pleased "BE WARNED" accidents have happened otherwise keep up the great effort of keeping those old tractors alive and they will still be going well and truly after all todays new junk will be on the scrapheap.
Nice work Do You use stainless welding material and how many AMP do you have on the TIG welder👍
That was some fine dentistry.
Этот поршень уже видел свет в конце тоннеля .... Но его вернули в эту жестокую реальность .
От чего этот поршень
@@BigBoss-em3bz ну возьми и загугли Lanz Bulldog, древний трактор с одноцилиндровым двухтактным нефтяным двигателем, также керосиновый двигатель, двигатель с калильной головкой, калоризаторный двигатель, полудизель
Температурная жесткость всеравно влияет на месту сварки.будет отхождение, дольго не держить.это точно.
@@РустемРустем-ч3я Верное замечание , но , видимо , это делается больше для демонстрации возможности ремонта и вряд-ли этот поршень будет установлен на рабочий двигатель . Хотя , чем черт не шутит ...
Great job! Keep up the good work
Bro what the hell man i though you have sleeping effects
With which add martial you have welded it, is that just copper bagette, or type of material correct, I see that you weld it with the btig.
В теории конец трещины необходимо засверлить , как он сейчас работает ?
That's some premo pitting you got going on there.
Personally, I would have touched up the cut with a diamond tip and a die grinder, so there was a smother surface to wield to.
I am wondering though. On a piece like this, would he have pre-heated it?
I think he should have. Pretty hard to go wrong pre heating cast iron but you can do less than excellent by NOT pre heating.
what kind of rod are u using to fill the crack?? how come u have not pre-heated the piston before u start to fill the crack with metal?? shouldn't you have put drill stop holes at the end of the cracks to try and prevent the cracks from continuing??
he probably used silicon bronze so he had not need to preheat, anyway that big cast iron should preheat to a certain point
Good in my book! Will last another 100 years, easy...
I'm sure you know what your doing, but I thought you would have warmed the piston in an oven before welding...
Nice work.
Why did you not pre-heat the piston? Did you use stainless rod?
What kind of filler rod was used have some cast iron to repair myself
Is The Funeral March appropriate music?
what's the patches on your jacket looks like some type of military patchs
what about lighter next to piston their low pressure but will explode
So what kind of fillet rod is he,using,?
Is the piston cast iron?.....if so why would you use tig over pre heat and braze???
isnt this from the engine that can idle at 0 RPM?
I hope he cleans off the grinding dust before installing
Doubt it, with the hack up job he did at welding it
What is the fillermetal you use?
Up
Butane lighter laying next to welding going on?
What type of tungsten, Filler rod and gas was used?
Isn't it gonna harden the cast iron and cause more cracks? I don't know just asking.
Another nice repair was it a weld or braze?
Should have drilled out the end of crack first. This is TIG brazing not welding. He used a bronze rod because it has give while the cast iron does not. This prevents the cast iron from cracking again. No if he used a nickel rod it would of been welding. Nickel also does what bronze does, has give to prevent the cast iron from cracking.
Muggy weld 77?
Holly bonkers, that's one massive piston.
That is what she said.
+Mno good fusion between metal ( durty job)
...and a looong stroke, too!
Appears no preheat and die grind shaping radices looks like a nickel base filler rod good AC I hope no die grind after passes it's a must to do check temp 450° or so finish grind fill any perocity put back in Kool down oven .Then hope!.
Just curious, why did you choose TIG over stick?
Very well repaired
To all screaming: how about showing us a video of you guys welding a piece of cast iron?
they cant, they have only googled it. shit ill bet my left nut they had to google the tractor its out of...
actually i did weld it a few times mostly the car Spindles with stick electrode and when i preheated and post heated it it was great but i had the option to preheat with oxy acethylene and then throw it into the owen after the welding. I think the preheat was not introduced because of the size here.
@@dzozepe try to wrap around some copper wire around the electrode. and while youre welding hammer the iron inside the cast iron..that works great