Nice stones, I have Chosera 600, 1000 and 5000 grits and love them. I started on a no-name Indian oil stone from a hardware store, Choseras are quite an upgrade. Thanks for the sharpening vid, lots of succinct advice here. I have watched a lot of sharpening videos from Korin and JKI but they are old and waffley compared to this vid. Great work.
I don’t know when I did it but I put a heavy secondary bevel on half of my mora and good god I’ve been trying to work a burr on it for awhile now😂 on a 180 grit😐
Stones will always end up convexing the edge and before diamond plates only way to get flat was with a water grinder. I should get myself a tormek as well.
A Scandi grind has two bevels: one on each side. They are primary bevels - there are no secondary bevels on a Scandi. Thank you for your attention to this matter.
I'd be concerned that a full hollow grind would be a little too delicate for the woodworking tasks I do. I've got a couple Morakniv 106 knives lying around, so I might test a full hollow against a flat over hollow.
@@craig1825 For sure. I also find it quicker to go to my stones for light touch-ups, rather than getting my Tormek out and setup. But I'll definitely share the results on this channel.
I have a question off subject, do honing steel’s rough or smooth remove the burr after stone sharpening? Also does it matter if you finish on a rough or smooth stone?.
Yes, steels remove metal from the edge, often creating a microbevel (depending on the angle used). Science of Sharp has a great article on it: scienceofsharp.com/2018/08/22/what-does-steeling-do-part-1/ Because it creates a microbevel, the final stone you use might not matter so much. I've seen a few folks sharpen with coarse grits (around 400 grit) and then go straight to stropping and get good results. It's not something I've tried myself though.
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Thanks. I enjoy my Tormek machine so was glad to hear you mention it.
Informative video.
Excellent video thank you. Proper time on the stones and a good strop! The way to go!! What compound do you put on your strop? Thank you.
interesting there is good knowledge in here! thanks
gr8 video
Nice stones, I have Chosera 600, 1000 and 5000 grits and love them. I started on a no-name Indian oil stone from a hardware store, Choseras are quite an upgrade. Thanks for the sharpening vid, lots of succinct advice here. I have watched a lot of sharpening videos from Korin and JKI but they are old and waffley compared to this vid. Great work.
Very cool!
Good tutorial . Tq
You're welcome, glad you found it helpful!
Brilliant presentation, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
What knife jig are you using on the Tormec? I’ve never seen that one before.
It's the Small Knife Jig (SVM-00). It works in conjunction with the KJ-45 knife jig.
I don’t know when I did it but I put a heavy secondary bevel on half of my mora and good god I’ve been trying to work a burr on it for awhile now😂 on a 180 grit😐
Well done video. I especially like the combination grind with a Tormek shown at the end.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do!
Do you use any compound on the strop?
Yes, that strop has green honing compound on it: www.sharpeningsupplies.com/collections/strops/products/green-honing-compound
Stones will always end up convexing the edge and before diamond plates only way to get flat was with a water grinder. I should get myself a tormek as well.
A Scandi grind has two bevels: one on each side. They are primary bevels - there are no secondary bevels on a Scandi.
Thank you for your attention to this matter.
( I don't sharpen a knife! I just put a point , and she cuts well!)
( it's called setting a knife 🗡️🔪!)
What benefits do you believe using a tormek then a stone give you? Rather than just using a tormek and then the honing wheel.
I'd be concerned that a full hollow grind would be a little too delicate for the woodworking tasks I do. I've got a couple Morakniv 106 knives lying around, so I might test a full hollow against a flat over hollow.
So your thinking it improves durability? Please let me/us know the results.
@@craig1825 For sure. I also find it quicker to go to my stones for light touch-ups, rather than getting my Tormek out and setup. But I'll definitely share the results on this channel.
I have a question off subject, do honing steel’s rough or smooth remove the burr after stone sharpening? Also does it matter if you finish on a rough or smooth stone?.
Yes, steels remove metal from the edge, often creating a microbevel (depending on the angle used). Science of Sharp has a great article on it: scienceofsharp.com/2018/08/22/what-does-steeling-do-part-1/ Because it creates a microbevel, the final stone you use might not matter so much. I've seen a few folks sharpen with coarse grits (around 400 grit) and then go straight to stropping and get good results. It's not something I've tried myself though.