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Holley/ Fitech RFI EMI solutions
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- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2024
- how I solved my RFI issues with my fuel injection system. Hopefully this can help a lot of you. please leave how you solved your RFI solutions in the comment section.
MSD noise capacitor
www.amazon.com/dp/B00029JMJ4/...
noise filter I used on Holley
www.ebay.com/itm/233871383581
Faraday tape
www.amazon.com/dp/B08J4285D8/...
I have seen issues with RFI in other Holley Sniper EFI kits I have done...
I truly believe Holley needs to do a better job of insulating their products. And incorporate RFI filters in their wiring. These aren't issues in modern cars with high energy ignition, huge amp alternators, tons and tons of wiring with computers and modules everywhere. It can be done. It shouldn't be up to the consumer to fix a deficiency in an expensive product.
They did mess up. That's why there's a sniper 2 now
Good suggestion… another one to add is getting a delrin threaded rod to secure the air cleaner. Saw this on another’s video.
Fixed mine, first Faraday tape on all wires and grounded to block, second insulated air filter hat, third a very good filter on ignition lead, fourth changed MSD Blaster coil for a high inductance slow rise time coil, fourth a steel shield between distributor - sniper throttle body and fifth clip-on ferrite noise filters on all leads to ECU at ECU.
I have a sniper on a 5.7 ls1 in a 69 camaro. Msd 6ls ignition mounted inside the car behind the dash pad, metal air cleaner with k&n lid. Car has no a/c or radio. Absolutely zero issues with my sniper. Most of these videos i see are on distributor run cars. Only tuning issue i had was a surging idle. New intake gaskets on my edelbrock victor jr fixed that issue. Running a texas speed MS3 cam, 238/242, .600'/.600', 112 LSA with cnc ported 243 heads. Set the iac to 6%, idle 850rpm and let it rip.
Forgot to add, my sniper unit was a discount refurbished unit directly from holley.
thanks for the video. i feel like a lot of what you did was a work around/band-aid for the actual issue wherever it may be though.. i haven't had the joy of tracking down/eliminating interference yet, other than speaker hum on a few vehicles (usually fixing grounds corrected that), so i can't speak from experience i guess other than i wired my car all new and did a fresh install of everything and have no emi/rfi. I'm glad you got it where you're not having issues, but i fear its a matter of time before it returns because you're just shielding things from the interference mainly instead of eliminating the interference at the source.
I mess with it for days trying to figure out where the EMI was coming from. Whether it's a Band-Aid or work around it works. It has an updated at alternator, ignition and everything. I messed with it for days and I watched a lot of RFI videos. A lot of people talk about Faraday tape and grounds. I added all of it.
with all that stuff to add on just so the efi works right I think I'll keep my carburetors they work just perfect
That's a smart move.
I have had my sniper for 5 years and one day the car wouldn't start. I did what you suggested and the Faraday tape worked. I wrapped all of my sniper wiring and solved my no start problem. Why does Holley not add something like this to their setup? Thanks for the great tip.
I'm currently in the process of wiring my car for the sniper. I'm running a SBF (351W stroker) with the Sniper Stealth, as well as a HyperSpark distributor, all in a 2012 Mustang.
When you read the following, please know that I have a matter-of-fact speaking style that might come across as berating or abrupt, but I'm just providing info. Nothing more, nothing less.
Admittedly, I'm running a newer car without all of the problems that come along for the ride in older cars, and I haven't actually gotten to the point where I'm ready to start the car for the first time, but...
0) There should be no reason to have to use ferrite beads or faraday tape, or even ground your throttle body. Furthermore, the nylon washers really should not have made much/any difference because the ECU is still making metal-to-metal contact with the throttle body. In fact, if your battery to frame, battery to block, block to frame, and head to firewall grounds are appropriate (I'm talking nothing smaller than 4-gauge cable), it seems to me that you shouldn't have to do anything special with regards to further grounding of components, because everything is eventually metal-to-metal.
1) You didn't say this specifically, but wrapping wires coming off the throttle body is kinda pointless, because they are all coming off the throttle body at the same general location. I don't understand how wrapping them is going to solve anything.
2) If you haven't yet, you really should weld a proper O2 sensor bung onto your exhaust. The strap-on stuff that Holley provides in the kits is nothing more than encouragement for people that desperately want to believe that this is a DIY one-afternoon install. It's not, and everybody that's installed a Sniper knows this from experience.
3) Fact - old Fords running out-dated technology (half-assed too-small ground straps, 1G/2G alternators, fender mounted starter solenoids, intake-mounted ignition coils, non-resistor plugs/wires, etc) are going to be *noisy*. If you want the best possible initial experience with a Sniper, you have to sort these things out before turning the car on the first time.
4) You didn't mention what kind of distributor you're using, but a magnetic distributor (most of MSD's product line) is going to produce more RFI than a hall-effect distributor (HyperSpark).
5) Try putting some dielectric grease on the wires at the cap (and even at the plugs). The way I did it was to remove the plug wire from the cap, and use a q-tip to run a small amount just inside the boot. Another way is to run a small amount around the post on the cap. This may help when the air cleaner is on the car.
BTW, how about a video of the car running? :)
I have literally done everything that you mentioned in that post. It has a 3G alternator. A nice big round strap from the block to the frame. It also has a dual sync distributor. It literally broke 50 miles later. The o2 sensor is welded. The power and ground go directly to the battery. I still had RFI issues. I would absolutely love to say those things weren't needed. Because it was an absolute headache to wrap all those wires. All the wiring is updated.
And the nylon washers actually did work. To ECU and throttle body are both painted. There is no metal on metal contact.
It also has the updated plugs and wires. They're brand new.
Like I separated all the wires I did everything by the book. I still have problems. The Faraday tape I think is the one that actually fixed it.
Hey, Thanks Brian! this is probably the most in-depth RFI sniper video. It's not just like hey move this move that. Im having these same issues with a 67 Camaro. Do you have an update? did these continue to work? It seems like if you don't want to go through all of these steps get the Terminator X 4150 is the way to go. It would be great if holley offered a remotely mounted ECU.
Thanks again!
Billy
I stuck with my edelbrock avs2 carb. I bought a wideband gauge, fuel regulator and edelbrock tuning kit. Now my air fuel ratio has been running at 14.7 idle and 13.5-14 on throttle. I really thought about going EFI but the amount of problems they have im not sure if its worth it. If i did go EFI i would get the FI-Tech with the sump pump and keep my carburetor in my trunk incase i break down somewhere. All i would need to do is hook up the carburetor and disconnect the fuel line from the sump pump and reconnect it back to the carburetor.
You mentioned that your battery was located in the trunk. Do you have a ground directly from the engine block to the battery?
wouldn’t the ecu cover screws still make contact with the case though regardless of nylon washers?
As many people that have had problems with the Sniper it’s not worth buying
What kind of 02 sensor issues were you having? Mine started erratically changing. I switched sensors and it’s doing the same thing. My wiring is really neat and clean.
It would say error
Having interference issue and finding it's actually the coils arcing into the block and not the sparkplug. This causes any of the sensors grounded to the block to shit the bed which on my car is literally all of them lol
RFI fix get a 4 pin relay. Use the key switch hot to control the relay. Then run the PINK wire to the relay , directly from the battery , again directly from battery. Thus the Pink wire source is clean. This is a fix for less than 10 bucks . Yes I have a condenser , but the relay is MUCH simpler and better for my car
It already had that too. All power switched or constant are directly to the battery.
What are the symptoms of RFI ?
Where did you get those valve covers?
I painted an hydro dipped them myself
What issues were you having before going through the effort to make your system RFI proof
When I would smash the gas it would back fire and the handheld would say error. It would start and die. 02 sensor would do weird stuff.
@@brianstechtips5721 i bought a holley unit and i haven't been able to get it to idle. it fluctuates all over from 900 to even 3k rpm. o2 sensor reads rich, its clearly running rich, the computer is commanding less fuel but it doesnt inject less fuel. its been a nightmare. the only answer ive been given is RFI causing all my problems where the solution is to replace everything
I have had nothing but issues with the Holley sniper. I still haven't worked out all my issues
Try putting tin foil over your distributor. I know it sounds retarded
@@brianstechtips5721 lol, i suggested the foil thing to a friend that knows about computers and such and he called me a schizo. fortunately in my case holley is going to take it back and make sure its working correctly. if they say its working correctly i'm getting a fitech unit. it worked for me on another project right out of the box
Which wires did you wrap?
All of them. Holley wires got wrapped separately. Noisy wires got wrapped separately.
Tronix is the wrong inition to run with EFI they're known for noise go MSD
I put a noise filter on it. Works perfectly now.
Cool
ALL THIS MONEY AND TIME WASTED. KEEP IT SIMPLE AIR FUIL SPARK I WENT BACK TO A CARB.
You do you buddy
@@brianstechtips5721 WHAT DUZ THAT MEAN.
It seems F/I manufacturers would build there units already RFI shielded seeing how they are meant to be used on vehicles that have ignition systems, alternators and other RFI producing components. I guess it's too much to ask.