Chapters 00:00 Avoid Bad Apples 01:16 Know Your Usage Pattern 03:41 Be Early With Services 04:17 Listen To The Manufacturer 06:11 Spend On Higher Grade Fuel Instead 07:00 Closing Comments Watch the full episode here: ruclips.net/video/kVtlfodNGrg/видео.html *Download the MotorInc app now! Available for iOS, coming soon for Android.* Download the app at tinyurl.com/getmiapp Subscribe to our main channel for more content like this: youtube.com/@motorinc Subscribe to the clips channel if you'd like to watch more clips: youtube.com/@motorincclips
my Yamaha FZ16 version 1 has clocked more than 1.26lakh kms on only two chain sprocket sets. the first one was changed around 75000kms on it, and I still have it with me as a spare. I clean the chain once a month with diesel and oil the chain with 140gear oil once a week. Common sense say that front sprocket wears faster as it rotates faster - hence replaced them at every 15k kms. The company say that the whole chain set has to be replaced as a set. At around 60k kms replaced the original factory fitted clutch and cylinder head valves were replaced with oil seals (this was done out of fear than a necessity). I use basic mineral oil 20w50 and faithfully replace at around 2500-3000 kms without fail EDIT -- Oops,missed about carburettor. Replaced it at 85k due to wear in the slide and scratches on jet needle pin.
@@kishananuraag yes, it is EP140 gearoil from HP. Just two drops per link on both sides O rings and two drops on rollers rotating chain in reverse - so as to smear oil to front sprocket first and eventually to the back sprocket.
I never had any luck with fzs v1, it is a good bike but no matter how calmly I ride it, its piston kit doesn't last more than 50k kms. I clean my chain at every 700-800km period and chain lasts only 30-40k kms.
cylinder head replace at 60k, i have seen a guy on suzuki gs150 clock 2 lakh km still on the original piston kit. I replaced my gs cylinder kit at 80k and now on 1.75k still no issues. it all comes to your preferences . treat your bike like a street whore and be read y to pay through your nose, treat it like your queen and she ll be your mate for life.
Shumi is right. Whenever I take my Gixxer 250 for a regular service, the first go through the user manual to see what extra things other than the regular servicing needs to be done. The schedule said to change the spark plug. So I asked the service advisor to change it. He asked me why do you want to change the spark plug? I said it is written in the user manual. Then he replaced it.
Hi, I would like to tell that sometimes parts are okay at the change interval, if the part is opened and it looks fine, you can use it till next service. Having a gixxer for 7 years did lot of long tours so I understand this thing. BDW Happy riding !
One thing everyone has to consider is that manufactures doesn't do what's absolutely best for your vehicle. They give you a solution thats practical and reasonable for the intended use. Sometimes they will consider certains things as diminishing ROI. So when you take your bike to say ladakh or absolutely rips it everyday getting that premium engine oil does help. Getting that aftermarket air filter does help, but the cost may not justify the gains. But tuning is a hobby and hobbies can be expensive.
Sounds right, but isn‘t all the time. It is certain though that the recommendations work! Do not use this logic to play around with aftermarket items you have no understanding of and no control over their quality, as those manufacturers again use OEM productions by others, that in the case it‘s a original product, but on aftermarket, you have to expect to be sold a counterfit that works not to the same standards, but may appear to do so. Don‘t be smart! That‘s the most stupid thing you can do, unless you‘re deeply into it, these specific products and impacts, testing, usage. And that you are, when you‘re actually on that job, so you don‘t have to anyway.
I own a 2020 390 Adventure. Not the smoothest of engines, but adequately powerful for my touring needs. Over the years, I have played around with adding/replacing parts, including brake pads (EBC & Brembo), oil (Silkolene), air filter (BMC). I also put in a FuelX Pro. Have ridden it for close to 22K kms, and the bike runs smoother today, than the day it came from the showroom. I believe a lot of that has to do with the components that have gone into it. Made some mistakes, and learnt from them too! Also, like Shumi said, I’m a big fan of preventative maintenance. As a result, the bike’s proven to be reliable, fast and fun. I thrash it over bad roads, run it in the city as well as open highways, and it delivers without so much as a whimper.
Interesting thought and logically makes sense. I differ here. I have made few changes on my interceptor (sparkplugs, fluids, air filter) and there is a noticeable increase in performance.
These types of topics i love, Also please do a podcast on Service centers like Royal enfield doesn't allow to use any third party engine oil, and other non written rules.
Although I agree for the most part, I noticed significant refinement improvement when I switched from Bajaj oil to Motul on my 1st Gen 2012 Pulsar 200 NS.
Same here... I switched to motul fully synthetic after 85k on my Pulsar 180 The bike feels so smooth, I have crossed 1lakh km If I knew, motul will give me this much refinement I would have gone for it from the 1st service itself
I have driven my Verna 1.6 VTVT for 70k+ and the Service Advisor specifically called me and said that I have maintained my car really well and the engine components don't show any sign of wear and tear. (apart from the scratches and nicks in the body which happens when you live in a metro). I fill only XP95 and use Synthetic oil. I don't rev the engine beyond 3.5k rpm and I know immediately if something is wrong with my car. I am petty sure that the engine would last another 80k without any issues. Take good care of your machine and it will repay by being reliable.
Thank you sir for including the point on premium oil. I have told many of my friends, but no one was listening. Now i can suggest this video to them. Thank you sir. This all is a marketing gimmick created by every other brand and all those mechanics are getting bumper commission on suggesting any other brand. Everyone started feeling like premium oil is a basic need of their bike, without realising that its induced/artificial need which were created by a brand and mechanic combined.
I love ather's acceleration, even in SmartEco, but i slow down for every speed breaker, so i know why the brake pads worn out quickly, and i am ok with it
Super talk with content challenging the thinking of every rider, all cc ranges, all models, all bike categories..... Super Kudos 😅 The harshest truth, people see and forget. Need to see another time to register it into my brain.😂
There's a 4 part series Banks power channel (diesel engine wizards) from the US did on oil and there's a great explanation of why choose different grades. They did a full factory tour with testing, research, additives and explanations of each additive and testing process. There's also the channel Project farm which did various real life testing on oils, and there is a clear difference between oils and engine life. There was also this article about engines that do auto start stop, which causes a higher wear in engines. So I think taking some time into looking at oil is quite beneficial - use case basis.
When it comes to maintaining and optimizing the performance of my vehicles, I firmly believe in choosing only the best. For my Honda CBR 250, I trust Putoline. For my diesel car, Amsoil is my go-to. The engine not only became quieter and more efficient but also exhibited a noticeable improvement in mileage and overall drive quality. My CBR gets me a stupendous 45 mark, and my Paj goestol 15 km/lit. Of course there; that's my skill. These experiences underscore an essential truth: making the right choices for my fleet of automobiles is crucial. Whether it’s the engine oil, filters, or any other component, investing in quality ensures that my vehicles perform better and last longer. It’s not just about the brand; it’s about understanding what your machine needs and delivering it.
the manufacturer responsibility is to cover warranty period with no issues..rest is the owners responsibility so if you use premium products it will benefit you eventually.
I have a 1993 Yamaha RX100, done 1 lac + km, except for chain and sprocket (as precaution) and tires nothing was changed. And it's a two stroke and engine, gearbox, clutch remains original. It was all about timely oil change with premium oils.
A better and higher quality fully synthetic engine oil is always superior to the OEMs, as they are much more reliable tested fuel efficient, generates less heat, less vibration, and less wear &tear, but they are not recommended for some reasons as the vehicle manufacturer gonna loose money if they do and the second is budget commuters buyers won't be willing to pay premium for a engine oil and they would loose the competition.
When it comes to engine oil, I feel regular brand use just reasonable engine oil that should feel different just after servicing and behave like before after certain use. They are certainly not very enthusiastic when it comes to what is the best for your vehicles. If you care about your vehicle like your buddy, then you must try what is best out there. If a brand is recommending 5W30, then you can stick to that grade but explore some other brand of engine oil. And if you can replace on your own or some mechanic outside, that might cost less or equal as service centre people charge more as part of labour cost and use just avg engine oil. I have tried changing that and I really felt the difference and you can atleast feel your vehicle's full potential. Case might be different in case of luxury brand.
I moved to v300 for my Himalayan, the engine feels more smooth, that hoarseness is gone. I feel better engine oils do help to some extent. My 2 cents. Would need your advice on breakpads, sintered or std, bangalore traffic and 40 % highway rides. Thanks.
Question for Shumi, Karthik, or anyone else: What are the early signs of a break pad or a clutch pad wear and tear? How do I spot those small changes in their effectiveness before the alarm bells start going off and it’s too late or I am on the road and in the most unfortunate situation, unable to control my vehicle.
Wrong „more or less“. Keep to your schedule, keep to the oils referenced there and do not go over the schedule to avoid long-term or short-term impact. If you understand you use the bike „harder“, as in „sportive action“ outside normal traffic (i.e. offroad, trackdays, racing, or tune it) and under hard usage under slow moving activity under extreme heat, you better find a more appropriate (shorter) schedule as engines and oils wear more under these circumstances. If you don‘t use your bike, maintain it yearly or as the maintenance schedule dictates.
Hey guys thats a nice bit of important discussion totally agree with shumi Bcoz I do the same And chocolate fudge comment is hilarious ❤ Makes sense 😄 Merry Christmas too you both
People spending extra on expensive engine oils, trust me, for your daily grind, the company provided engine oils are good enough. Just change them at the specified interval.
nah ! i disagree with this. Engine Oil and Air filter has to be of good quality. In my experience of bike(Honda - activa, CB200X, CB 350) and cars (Maruti 800 bs3, Maruti celerio petrol, Altroz and Nexon Diesel BS6) changing the engine oil to Shell fully sythentic and BMC/Schorl air filters did wonders.
Thanks for sharing such valuable information! I need some advice: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). Could you explain how to move them to Binance?
Need Help. I've snapped my clutch cable on my Husqvarna 401 once at just 4000kms and now I'm at 5600, and it has started to feel like it's gonna happen again.
Just because you guys do things in certain way that is the best policy!.. Experienced bikers have different opinions & they are also right 🤷 My Triumph Speed 400 runs like a gem on Motul 7100 as against the stupid stock Hindustan Petroleum oil!!..
They are just sharing what they think, it is up to you to accept it or not. In my early days when I first bought my fzs i always tried to put motul 7100 in it (btw best engine oil in the market IMO) but I got same life from engine with the mineral oil also. So I stopped wasting my time and money and started using basic oil which company recommended. On my ninja 1000sx I use 7100 because kawasaki's oil cost more than 7100 and result are not that good compared to motul. So all depends on the bike you have, i won't suggest people to waste money on 7100 by using it with splendor.
Could I ask this here? Fully synthetic oil for a commuter motorcycle like the Bajaj CT110, 2020 Model (BS6)....yes or no? If yes, which brand would be ideal? Budget isn't an issue.
Doesn't matter if the oil is mineral/semi synthetic or fully synthetic as long as you don't keep stretching the drain intervals. My recommendation would be following these intervals - Mineral oil - 1000-1500kms, Semi synthetic oil - 2000-2500kms and Fully Synthetic oil - 3000-3500kms. Don't forget to change the oil filter with engine oil every time that is a must. For a brand I'd recommend Motul especially for bajaj engines as i have both the pulsar 150 and 220.
My friend used Motul Synthetic Oil for the CT100 2017 model, which does not have a DTSi engine, and he mentioned noticing an improvement in its performance. I have used Bajaj Engine Oil for my CT 110 X (2021), and after riding it for 500 km, I added 90ml of Polytron engine oil additive along with the fuel additive Redflow. The engine noise has reduced, the clutch feels lighter, and gear shifting is now smoother.
Yap yap till the cows 🐄 come home 🏡... Big guys walking talking about....great things.. Ride in cruise 🛳 🎥 view mode enjoy the ride ...live and let others be....as long as people with you are comfortable in car ..each road has its speed ....live young live wild born to be free....
Manufacturers tend to consider the cost of maintenance too. They will consider what will be the life time of a bike, and how much wear is acceptable. Then suggest an oil that should get the job done. But being an enthusiast and getting the best of the best is okay too. If manufacturers were doing the absolute best then the tuning enthusiast community wouldn't exist. They have to think about ROI so they won't go overboard.
Good advice. It is simple common sense to be sensitive to one’s car. In today’s idiotic use and throw economy people unnecessarily rough use their vehicles. Whereas in the 1970’s and 1980’s, people used to “care” for their cars because they had respect for them and especially if one lived in a relatively remote area, even more reason to be very careful with the car, because of inaccessibility to correct help and the relative scarcity or poor distribution of spare parts. Plus one didnt want the vehicle to let one down in the middle of nowhere at an inconvenient time. Personally even today in this 2024-2025 consumer driven uncaring, prosperous kind of wasteful economy, I still prefer to take care of my vehicles properly. In my view it is plain unadulterated stupidity to wantonly destroy ones vehicle unnecessarily. In fact, it is a criminal waste.
Chapters
00:00 Avoid Bad Apples
01:16 Know Your Usage Pattern
03:41 Be Early With Services
04:17 Listen To The Manufacturer
06:11 Spend On Higher Grade Fuel Instead
07:00 Closing Comments
Watch the full episode here: ruclips.net/video/kVtlfodNGrg/видео.html
*Download the MotorInc app now! Available for iOS, coming soon for Android.*
Download the app at tinyurl.com/getmiapp
Subscribe to our main channel for more content like this: youtube.com/@motorinc
Subscribe to the clips channel if you'd like to watch more clips: youtube.com/@motorincclips
Waiting for the Motorinc Android app Shumi.
I sure hope they did some research about how many audience members actually use iOS before dropping the iOS app.
They probably did the research and figured iOS folks form the greater chunk of paying customers
+1
my Yamaha FZ16 version 1 has clocked more than 1.26lakh kms on only two chain sprocket sets. the first one was changed around 75000kms on it, and I still have it with me as a spare. I clean the chain once a month with diesel and oil the chain with 140gear oil once a week. Common sense say that front sprocket wears faster as it rotates faster - hence replaced them at every 15k kms. The company say that the whole chain set has to be replaced as a set. At around 60k kms replaced the original factory fitted clutch and cylinder head valves were replaced with oil seals (this was done out of fear than a necessity). I use basic mineral oil 20w50 and faithfully replace at around 2500-3000 kms without fail
EDIT -- Oops,missed about carburettor. Replaced it at 85k due to wear in the slide and scratches on jet needle pin.
👏
oh yeah! gear oil for chain all the way! best grease for the chain. It runs butter smooth although maintenance with the gunk in the chain
@@kishananuraag yes, it is EP140 gearoil from HP. Just two drops per link on both sides O rings and two drops on rollers rotating chain in reverse - so as to smear oil to front sprocket first and eventually to the back sprocket.
I never had any luck with fzs v1, it is a good bike but no matter how calmly I ride it, its piston kit doesn't last more than 50k kms. I clean my chain at every 700-800km period and chain lasts only 30-40k kms.
cylinder head replace at 60k, i have seen a guy on suzuki gs150 clock 2 lakh km still on the original piston kit. I replaced my gs cylinder kit at 80k and now on 1.75k still no issues. it all comes to your preferences . treat your bike like a street whore and be read y to pay through your nose, treat it like your queen and she ll be your mate for life.
Shumi is right. Whenever I take my Gixxer 250 for a regular service, the first go through the user manual to see what extra things other than the regular servicing needs to be done. The schedule said to change the spark plug. So I asked the service advisor to change it. He asked me why do you want to change the spark plug? I said it is written in the user manual. Then he replaced it.
Change the oil filter too at every service even if its not in the manual
Hi, I would like to tell that sometimes parts are okay at the change interval, if the part is opened and it looks fine, you can use it till next service. Having a gixxer for 7 years did lot of long tours so I understand this thing. BDW Happy riding !
One thing everyone has to consider is that manufactures doesn't do what's absolutely best for your vehicle. They give you a solution thats practical and reasonable for the intended use. Sometimes they will consider certains things as diminishing ROI.
So when you take your bike to say ladakh or absolutely rips it everyday getting that premium engine oil does help. Getting that aftermarket air filter does help, but the cost may not justify the gains. But tuning is a hobby and hobbies can be expensive.
Well said..
Sounds right, but isn‘t all the time. It is certain though that the recommendations work! Do not use this logic to play around with aftermarket items you have no understanding of and no control over their quality, as those manufacturers again use OEM productions by others, that in the case it‘s a original product, but on aftermarket, you have to expect to be sold a counterfit that works not to the same standards, but may appear to do so.
Don‘t be smart! That‘s the most stupid thing you can do, unless you‘re deeply into it, these specific products and impacts, testing, usage. And that you are, when you‘re actually on that job, so you don‘t have to anyway.
no, not well said, just blahblah that is commonly spread by people who don‘t take responsibility@@mydroidid
I own a 2020 390 Adventure. Not the smoothest of engines, but adequately powerful for my touring needs. Over the years, I have played around with adding/replacing parts, including brake pads (EBC & Brembo), oil (Silkolene), air filter (BMC). I also put in a FuelX Pro. Have ridden it for close to 22K kms, and the bike runs smoother today, than the day it came from the showroom. I believe a lot of that has to do with the components that have gone into it. Made some mistakes, and learnt from them too! Also, like Shumi said, I’m a big fan of preventative maintenance. As a result, the bike’s proven to be reliable, fast and fun. I thrash it over bad roads, run it in the city as well as open highways, and it delivers without so much as a whimper.
Interesting thought and logically makes sense. I differ here. I have made few changes on my interceptor (sparkplugs, fluids, air filter) and there is a noticeable increase in performance.
These types of topics i love, Also please do a podcast on Service centers like Royal enfield doesn't allow to use any third party engine oil, and other non written rules.
Many times dealer/service center lie and create panic for unnecessary replacements
Although I agree for the most part, I noticed significant refinement improvement when I switched from Bajaj oil to Motul on my 1st Gen 2012 Pulsar 200 NS.
Yep, but the point is - do you really need it? Thats where personal usage comes in.
Same here... I switched to motul fully synthetic after 85k on my Pulsar 180
The bike feels so smooth, I have crossed 1lakh km
If I knew, motul will give me this much refinement I would have gone for it from the 1st service itself
I have driven my Verna 1.6 VTVT for 70k+ and the Service Advisor specifically called me and said that I have maintained my car really well and the engine components don't show any sign of wear and tear. (apart from the scratches and nicks in the body which happens when you live in a metro). I fill only XP95 and use Synthetic oil. I don't rev the engine beyond 3.5k rpm and I know immediately if something is wrong with my car. I am petty sure that the engine would last another 80k without any issues. Take good care of your machine and it will repay by being reliable.
Thank you sir for including the point on premium oil.
I have told many of my friends, but no one was listening. Now i can suggest this video to them.
Thank you sir.
This all is a marketing gimmick created by every other brand and all those mechanics are getting bumper commission on suggesting any other brand. Everyone started feeling like premium oil is a basic need of their bike, without realising that its induced/artificial need which were created by a brand and mechanic combined.
I love ather's acceleration, even in SmartEco, but i slow down for every speed breaker, so i know why the brake pads worn out quickly, and i am ok with it
Significance of Reading Owners Manual
Nicely explained
This clip is tempting me to purchase the subscription. Release the android version asap 😊
I used my Hyundai Getz for 14 years / 1.2 Lakh KMS.
Never needed a clutch plate change.
Only 1 change of front disc brake pads at around 75K
Super talk with content challenging the thinking of every rider, all cc ranges, all models, all bike categories.....
Super Kudos 😅
The harshest truth, people see and forget.
Need to see another time to register it into my brain.😂
There's a 4 part series Banks power channel (diesel engine wizards) from the US did on oil and there's a great explanation of why choose different grades. They did a full factory tour with testing, research, additives and explanations of each additive and testing process.
There's also the channel Project farm which did various real life testing on oils, and there is a clear difference between oils and engine life.
There was also this article about engines that do auto start stop, which causes a higher wear in engines.
So I think taking some time into looking at oil is quite beneficial - use case basis.
A big pot hole is good enough to damage not just the suspension but wheel bearings and alloys in extreme case, on top of more frequent wheel alignment
When it comes to maintaining and optimizing the performance of my vehicles, I firmly believe in choosing only the best. For my Honda CBR 250, I trust Putoline. For my diesel car, Amsoil is my go-to. The engine not only became quieter and more efficient but also exhibited a noticeable improvement in mileage and overall drive quality. My CBR gets me a stupendous 45 mark, and my Paj goestol 15 km/lit. Of course there; that's my skill.
These experiences underscore an essential truth: making the right choices for my fleet of automobiles is crucial. Whether it’s the engine oil, filters, or any other component, investing in quality ensures that my vehicles perform better and last longer. It’s not just about the brand; it’s about understanding what your machine needs and delivering it.
the manufacturer responsibility is to cover warranty period with no issues..rest is the owners responsibility so if you use premium products it will benefit you eventually.
I have a 1993 Yamaha RX100, done 1 lac + km, except for chain and sprocket (as precaution) and tires nothing was changed. And it's a two stroke and engine, gearbox, clutch remains original.
It was all about timely oil change with premium oils.
So valuable information...🎉
A better and higher quality fully synthetic engine oil is always superior to the OEMs, as they are much more reliable tested fuel efficient, generates less heat, less vibration, and less wear &tear, but they are not recommended for some reasons as the vehicle manufacturer gonna loose money if they do and the second is budget commuters buyers won't be willing to pay premium for a engine oil and they would loose the competition.
When it comes to engine oil, I feel regular brand use just reasonable engine oil that should feel different just after servicing and behave like before after certain use. They are certainly not very enthusiastic when it comes to what is the best for your vehicles. If you care about your vehicle like your buddy, then you must try what is best out there. If a brand is recommending 5W30, then you can stick to that grade but explore some other brand of engine oil. And if you can replace on your own or some mechanic outside, that might cost less or equal as service centre people charge more as part of labour cost and use just avg engine oil. I have tried changing that and I really felt the difference and you can atleast feel your vehicle's full potential. Case might be different in case of luxury brand.
I moved to v300 for my Himalayan, the engine feels more smooth, that hoarseness is gone. I feel better engine oils do help to some extent. My 2 cents.
Would need your advice on breakpads, sintered or std, bangalore traffic and 40 % highway rides. Thanks.
Question for Shumi, Karthik, or anyone else: What are the early signs of a break pad or a clutch pad wear and tear? How do I spot those small changes in their effectiveness before the alarm bells start going off and it’s too late or I am on the road and in the most unfortunate situation, unable to control my vehicle.
You can play with engine oils as long as its the same weight. Remaining spare parts i would recommend to stick with original parts !
I'll buy Membership, if Shumi is subjected to a 2 line Sparkplug Tongue twister
Wrong „more or less“. Keep to your schedule, keep to the oils referenced there and do not go over the schedule to avoid long-term or short-term impact. If you understand you use the bike „harder“, as in „sportive action“ outside normal traffic (i.e. offroad, trackdays, racing, or tune it) and under hard usage under slow moving activity under extreme heat, you better find a more appropriate (shorter) schedule as engines and oils wear more under these circumstances. If you don‘t use your bike, maintain it yearly or as the maintenance schedule dictates.
Hey guys thats a nice bit of important discussion totally agree with shumi
Bcoz I do the same
And chocolate fudge comment is hilarious ❤
Makes sense 😄
Merry Christmas too you both
Do you use rev matching and hence your clutch is as good as brand new ??
My Mahindra Mojo has done 80 thousand kilometres and the clutch is still fine. 😊
What is your advice on Hero Xpulse 200 ? If I am happy with lower highway speed, is it better than RE Himalayan 400? Thanks.
thanks!
Does the fueling technique of filling normal fuel and once four months filling high grade fuel apply to litre class bikes also?
i like this small versions of video
People spending extra on expensive engine oils, trust me, for your daily grind, the company provided engine oils are good enough. Just change them at the specified interval.
nah ! i disagree with this. Engine Oil and Air filter has to be of good quality. In my experience of bike(Honda - activa, CB200X, CB 350) and cars (Maruti 800 bs3, Maruti celerio petrol, Altroz and Nexon Diesel BS6) changing the engine oil to Shell fully sythentic and BMC/Schorl air filters did wonders.
Thanks for sharing such valuable information! I need some advice: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). Could you explain how to move them to Binance?
Need Help. I've snapped my clutch cable on my Husqvarna 401 once at just 4000kms and now I'm at 5600, and it has started to feel like it's gonna happen again.
My pulsar 220F 2011 has run 1L km and the clutch is stock.
What's your opinion on using fuel additives like Redflow and Engine Oil additives like Polytron?
The surprise in the comment section , These info was always there. The reason no one knew about it, cause no one reads the manual.
Where can we find Zubin? I hear about him a lot (from you)
Just because you guys do things in certain way that is the best policy!.. Experienced bikers have different opinions & they are also right 🤷
My Triumph Speed 400 runs like a gem on Motul 7100 as against the stupid stock Hindustan Petroleum oil!!..
They are just sharing what they think, it is up to you to accept it or not. In my early days when I first bought my fzs i always tried to put motul 7100 in it (btw best engine oil in the market IMO) but I got same life from engine with the mineral oil also. So I stopped wasting my time and money and started using basic oil which company recommended. On my ninja 1000sx I use 7100 because kawasaki's oil cost more than 7100 and result are not that good compared to motul. So all depends on the bike you have, i won't suggest people to waste money on 7100 by using it with splendor.
Could I ask this here?
Fully synthetic oil for a commuter motorcycle like the Bajaj CT110, 2020 Model (BS6)....yes or no? If yes, which brand would be ideal?
Budget isn't an issue.
Motul 10w40 but not ideal in winters
Use it if u r riding more than 1500km in a month
Doesn't matter if the oil is mineral/semi synthetic or fully synthetic as long as you don't keep stretching the drain intervals. My recommendation would be following these intervals - Mineral oil - 1000-1500kms, Semi synthetic oil - 2000-2500kms and Fully Synthetic oil - 3000-3500kms. Don't forget to change the oil filter with engine oil every time that is a must. For a brand I'd recommend Motul especially for bajaj engines as i have both the pulsar 150 and 220.
My friend used Motul Synthetic Oil for the CT100 2017 model, which does not have a DTSi engine, and he mentioned noticing an improvement in its performance.
I have used Bajaj Engine Oil for my CT 110 X (2021), and after riding it for 500 km, I added 90ml of Polytron engine oil additive along with the fuel additive Redflow. The engine noise has reduced, the clutch feels lighter, and gear shifting is now smoother.
If your kM is not more than 1000 then dont go for it instead of use motul semi 15w50 is best for 100cc bike. (What i think and tested)
Chocolate fudge in suzuki if suzuki says so 😆
Yap yap till the cows 🐄 come home 🏡...
Big guys walking talking about....great things..
Ride in cruise 🛳 🎥 view mode enjoy the ride ...live and let others be....as long as people with you are comfortable in car
..each road has its speed ....live young live wild born to be free....
Android app please. Eagerly waiting "FAM"
or Pay extra for Premium Oil & stick to the schedule.
Chocolate fudge 😂 on a Suzuki
Absolutely
I told the engine oil point to my riding group and they laughed at me. Gonna send it to them
Manufacturers tend to consider the cost of maintenance too. They will consider what will be the life time of a bike, and how much wear is acceptable. Then suggest an oil that should get the job done. But being an enthusiast and getting the best of the best is okay too.
If manufacturers were doing the absolute best then the tuning enthusiast community wouldn't exist. They have to think about ROI so they won't go overboard.
Android fam... 😢
Disagree! Pay for premium motor oil AND change often. That's my way 😊
Good advice. It is simple common sense to be sensitive to one’s car. In today’s idiotic use and throw economy people unnecessarily rough use their vehicles. Whereas in the 1970’s and 1980’s, people used to “care” for their cars because they had respect for them and especially if one lived in a relatively remote area, even more reason to be very careful with the car, because of inaccessibility to correct help and the relative scarcity or poor distribution of spare parts. Plus one didnt want the vehicle to let one down in the middle of nowhere at an inconvenient time. Personally even today in this 2024-2025 consumer driven uncaring, prosperous kind of wasteful economy, I still prefer to take care of my vehicles properly. In my view it is plain unadulterated stupidity to wantonly destroy ones vehicle unnecessarily. In fact, it is a criminal waste.
Yappers instead of, off the cuff km covered do your Home work dude...then guess your km in Ktm Ducati or street temple.
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