I am not sure if this is valid. I used my oil dipstick to check the trans fluid level. It seemed to work. Any comments other than why it dosen't come with one? This a great source for all Promaster owners, thank you.
You absolutely can use your engine dipstick (wiped, of course) to check the transmission fluid. But it's not ideal because it's a cable and hard to read. We prefer the big 3' long white plastic zip ties you find in the home depot electrical section. Fluid shows up, and the serrations in the zip tie make is super easy to read. But any stick will work. It doesn't come with one because Chrysler doesn't want you poking around in there. Otherwise, there's little difference between this transmission and one build in 1960.
Can you tell me what are the common millimeter sockets that are used on the ProMaster? Also do you have any tires kicking around that show what the cupping looks like?
First off, how dare anybody else have my name. The Promaster is pretty good about sticking with 8,10,12,13,14,15 or 18mm. Cupped or scalloped tires are shown in my "assessing a used promaster video"
@@promastersonly1419 lol fear not, its my nickname. I checked out what the tires looked like and wow yeah thats a tough one. I have all those sockets minus the 8mm.
Thankyou, I learned a couple new things. When the oil coolers start to leak is it generally a trickle or a deluge? Just turned 5k miles on my '20 last week, 19.0 mpg avg for a 1100 mile loop through very mountainas Western Montana and Idaho. I'm impressed with the little tin can so far.
On such a new van I wouldn't even worry about it till maybe 50k, but when they go the oil leaks out fast. 30-60 miles at highway speed. Luckily, you'll smell it first, and you'll have codes next. We have no good way to test this, but we believe the engine will simply shut itself down at some point when it no longer has oil pressure, probably preserving the bearings and preventing damage to the engine. But with no oil pressure to operate the cams, the engine should just sputter and die.
Might do that someday, but in truth a coolant flush isn't really needed. The logic would be that the factory fill coolant is 5 years, and it's pretty likely you'll have some kind of issue in 5 years time that involves dropping the coolant anyway, at which point you would replace it. Assuming the correct coolant, the engines just don't "wear" the coolant like engines of old. Almost no iron in the system to make abrasive rust, and whatever is in OAT coolant protects the aluminum beautifully. With 8 years now on several of my 2014s, we have never had to do a heater core, which is where bad coolant would do it's damage first. That said, just pop the lowest radiator hose near the crank pulley and it will all come out.
Have a 2015 1500 and it has always had the mysterious coolant leaks, occasional smell, etc. When cold, what level should I strive for on the reservoir - MAX, MIN, anywhere in between? Thanks.
The actual level in the bottle doesn't really matter. What you are looking for is to get an idea of IF it's losing coolant, and if so HOW FAST is it losing it. Often, it can be more convenient/cost effective to just keep putting coolant in if the leak is slow enough, fix it at your leisure.
Basically, they break into three levels. Cheap ones, which are fine but all they do is read. Midpriced ones, which can do bi-directional communication and read all the codes not just the ones stored in the engine computer (body computer, instrument panel, HVAC module, etc), and high priced ones that can do actual programming. If I were you, I'd investigate a product called AlfaOBD, which runs on a phone and does some programming. It's cheap, and it's more than you'll ever need.
Kip is the KING of Promasters! Very luck to have the Promaster King right down the street maybe a block away. No one can say that.. Honk Honk. Beep Beep..
What's your phone number? I need a rear shocks recommendation for a 2017 Ram Promaster 3500 extended WB (159) inches, extended cargo floor, high roof. Front struts also would be cool. I don't know if I want to go back to OEM. TIA.
Rear shocks you have limited choices. Bilsteins if you can find them, Monroe or OE. Monroes are cheap but not bad. In front, only two companies sell complete cartridges. Bilstein and OE require taking the cartridge apart and using a new shock portion. A hassle.
I bought a set of Bilsteins for the front and rear recently while they were readily available. My thought is to swap out the originals for the Bilsteins when it is time. My van is a 2021 with low mileage at this point. Any advantage to swapping them out now? Will it make a difference in the ride and handling?
Your clothing hints at a change of season. Greetings from Florida.
That's a very mean thing to say!
Thank you, yet again. I will definitely start using my “marital aid” directly to my house batteries and not the 12v outlet on the dash.
Wise, very wise.
This is really helpful for new promasters owners about to take their first long trip! Appreciate you
Agreed. Or anyone who does a lot of miles.
Thanks for the advise! It's nice to see the old van on the big screen, lol. New van is holding up nicely.
If this is the big screen, you need a bigger phone!
@@promastersonly1419 🤣🤣
Good stuff bro! Loving the animated style as well. Cheers from Argentina 🍻
Thanks. Right back at you two…too. I’ve seen your channel. Good stuff.
I am not sure if this is valid. I used my oil dipstick to check the trans fluid level. It seemed to work. Any comments other than why it dosen't come with one? This a great source for all Promaster owners, thank you.
You absolutely can use your engine dipstick (wiped, of course) to check the transmission fluid. But it's not ideal because it's a cable and hard to read. We prefer the big 3' long white plastic zip ties you find in the home depot electrical section. Fluid shows up, and the serrations in the zip tie make is super easy to read. But any stick will work. It doesn't come with one because Chrysler doesn't want you poking around in there. Otherwise, there's little difference between this transmission and one build in 1960.
Yet another very useful video.Thanks!
Can you tell me what are the common millimeter sockets that are used on the ProMaster? Also do you have any tires kicking around that show what the cupping looks like?
First off, how dare anybody else have my name. The Promaster is pretty good about sticking with 8,10,12,13,14,15 or 18mm. Cupped or scalloped tires are shown in my "assessing a used promaster video"
@@promastersonly1419 lol fear not, its my nickname. I checked out what the tires looked like and wow yeah thats a tough one. I have all those sockets minus the 8mm.
Thankyou, I learned a couple new things. When the oil coolers start to leak is it generally a trickle or a deluge? Just turned 5k miles on my '20 last week, 19.0 mpg avg for a 1100 mile loop through very mountainas Western Montana and Idaho. I'm impressed with the little tin can so far.
On such a new van I wouldn't even worry about it till maybe 50k, but when they go the oil leaks out fast. 30-60 miles at highway speed. Luckily, you'll smell it first, and you'll have codes next. We have no good way to test this, but we believe the engine will simply shut itself down at some point when it no longer has oil pressure, probably preserving the bearings and preventing damage to the engine. But with no oil pressure to operate the cams, the engine should just sputter and die.
@@promastersonly1419 Thankyou. Now I'll know what to expect down the road a ways.
Speaking of uconnect... Do you have any idea if it's possible to replace/upgrade the uconnect radio?
It's not complicated to replace it. Upgrading it is better. Pioneer sells a very nice fancy one that displays OBD data and does all sorts of things.
Can you do a video on coolant Flush?
Also love the Chanel!
Also love the Chanel!
Might do that someday, but in truth a coolant flush isn't really needed. The logic would be that the factory fill coolant is 5 years, and it's pretty likely you'll have some kind of issue in 5 years time that involves dropping the coolant anyway, at which point you would replace it. Assuming the correct coolant, the engines just don't "wear" the coolant like engines of old. Almost no iron in the system to make abrasive rust, and whatever is in OAT coolant protects the aluminum beautifully. With 8 years now on several of my 2014s, we have never had to do a heater core, which is where bad coolant would do it's damage first.
That said, just pop the lowest radiator hose near the crank pulley and it will all come out.
Looking for a 2019 159WB 2500 in the next few weeks. Anything in particular I should keep an eye out for? Thanks for your videos. Very helpful.
I have a video for EXACTLY that. Search my channel for "assessing a used Promaster"
Have a 2015 1500 and it has always had the mysterious coolant leaks, occasional smell, etc. When cold, what level should I strive for on the reservoir - MAX, MIN, anywhere in between? Thanks.
The actual level in the bottle doesn't really matter. What you are looking for is to get an idea of IF it's losing coolant, and if so HOW FAST is it losing it. Often, it can be more convenient/cost effective to just keep putting coolant in if the leak is slow enough, fix it at your leisure.
Hello from windsor Ontario Canada , your neighbor from across the bridge
Hello, I lived in Toronto as a child. Love Canada! Greetings from Toledo!
Greetings. I got an excellent lap dance once in Windsor!
Can you give recommendation on good code readers?
Basically, they break into three levels. Cheap ones, which are fine but all they do is read. Midpriced ones, which can do bi-directional communication and read all the codes not just the ones stored in the engine computer (body computer, instrument panel, HVAC module, etc), and high priced ones that can do actual programming. If I were you, I'd investigate a product called AlfaOBD, which runs on a phone and does some programming. It's cheap, and it's more than you'll ever need.
Kip is the KING of Promasters! Very luck to have the Promaster King right down the street maybe a block away. No one can say that.. Honk Honk. Beep Beep..
Just yesterday we were talking about buying an air horn and hooking it to the air compressor, just so we can honk back when you pass.
What's your phone number? I need a rear shocks recommendation for a 2017 Ram Promaster 3500 extended WB (159) inches, extended cargo floor, high roof. Front struts also would be cool. I don't know if I want to go back to OEM. TIA.
Rear shocks you have limited choices. Bilsteins if you can find them, Monroe or OE. Monroes are cheap but not bad. In front, only two companies sell complete cartridges. Bilstein and OE require taking the cartridge apart and using a new shock portion. A hassle.
I bought a set of Bilsteins for the front and rear recently while they were readily available. My thought is to swap out the originals for the Bilsteins when it is time. My van is a 2021 with low mileage at this point.
Any advantage to swapping them out now? Will it make a difference in the ride and handling?